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US2386809A - Footwear and method of making same - Google Patents

Footwear and method of making same Download PDF

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Publication number
US2386809A
US2386809A US554796A US55479644A US2386809A US 2386809 A US2386809 A US 2386809A US 554796 A US554796 A US 554796A US 55479644 A US55479644 A US 55479644A US 2386809 A US2386809 A US 2386809A
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lining
sock
platform
heel
over
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Maling Roy
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/14—Platform shoes
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G06—COMPUTING OR CALCULATING; COUNTING
    • G06F—ELECTRIC DIGITAL DATA PROCESSING
    • G06F11/00—Error detection; Error correction; Monitoring
    • G06F11/07—Responding to the occurrence of a fault, e.g. fault tolerance
    • G06F11/08—Error detection or correction by redundancy in data representation, e.g. by using checking codes
    • G06F11/085—Error detection or correction by redundancy in data representation, e.g. by using checking codes using codes with inherent redundancy, e.g. n-out-of-m codes

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  • This invention relates to improvements in footwear and methods of producing the same. More particularly it provides improvements in shoes and slippers of the general variety in which the uppers are lasted only in the shank and heel regions thereof.
  • Footwear of the general type to which my present invention relates have so-called slip-lasted foreparts which means that the forepart of the upper is stitched all around the forepart to a base element while the upper is free of a last, and subsequently a last is slipped into the pre-stitched forepart between the upper and said base element, preliminary to a lasting of the rear portions of the upper.
  • the base element which is thus pre-stitched to the forepart of the upper may be an insole but usually is a flexible sheet of fabric which may serve the purpose of a socklining and be exposed interiorly of the finished shoe or slipper. After the last is slipped into the pre-stitched forepart, the rear portions of the upper may be lasted thereon, and the outsole and heel elements applied.
  • I employ a full length sock-lining element which can be stitched as in thepast to the upper all around the forepart while the upper is free of a last, and which is over-size throughout or at least at its shank and heel covering regions, to provide marginal portions which may be turned over the edges of an insole element and be secured as by'cement to the under surface of the insole element after a last has been slipped into the prestitched forepart and preparatory to lasting of the rear portions of the upper and their securement as by cement to the under surface of the insole element.
  • the full length sock-lining element may be over-size throughout to provide all-around marginal portions for being turned over-the edges of a full length insole element, or only the shank and. heel covering regions of the sock-lining may have the turn-over portions for binding the edges of an insole element having extent only in the shank and heel regions.
  • the 'Another object is to provide a method which involves no temporary fastening of any shoe part to the last prior to insertion of the last in the pre-stitched forepart of the upper.
  • the adjacent faces of the sock-lining and insole element preferably are cemented together throughout the extent of the insole element, and the sock-lining can be drawn smooth and tight over the insole element as the marginal portions of the sock-lining are turned over the edges of the' insole.
  • the insole element thus secured by the sock-lining constitutes a composite base element to which the rear portionspf the upper may be secured when lasted.
  • a feature is that the rear portions of the socklining and upper continue free of each other after stitching of the sock-lining and upper around the forepart, so that a last easily and quickly may be slipped into the pre-stitched forepart by thrusting it between the free rear portions of the sock-lining and upper, as distinguished from having to insert the last through the foot opening in the upper.
  • Another object is to provide a pre-formed platform, heel and shank unit which may be cemented or otherwise secured to the shoe structure after the rear portions of the upper have been lasted and which, under the pressure of application, automatically conforms approximately to the under surface of the lasted portions of the structure, thereby avoiding the need for filler materials.
  • Still another object is to provide apre-formed platform, heel and shank unit in which the heel may have various shapes and which includes an under side for receiving an outsole which may be cemented or otherwise secured in place.
  • Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe upper having an over-size full length sock-lining stitched interiorly thereto at the forepart only and having a platform cover secured exteriorly thereto;
  • Figure 2 is a bottom plan view of the structure of Figure 1;
  • Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view on line 3-3 of Figure 1;
  • Figure 4 is a cross-sectional view showing a last slipped into the pie-stitched structure of Figures1-3, and a full length insole laid in place;
  • Figure 5 is a cross-sectional view on line 55 of Figure 4.
  • Figure 6 is a top plan view of Figure l but showing the marginal portions of the sock-lining turned over the edges of the ins-ole and cemented to the face of the insole which is upper-most in i ure 4; v
  • Figure 7 is a cross-sectional view on line 'l-T of Figure 6; p
  • Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure 6 but showing the rear portions of upper lasted and cemented to the insole;
  • Figure 9 is a plan view of a platform element having its edges bound at the shank and heel regions thereof;
  • Figures 10 and 11 are plan views of two heel lift elements
  • Figure 12 is a plan view showing'the platform element of Figure 9 and the heel liftelements of Figures 10 and 11 after being combinedj j Figure 13' 'isa cross-sectional view showing the unitary platform and heel of Figure 12 secured in place in my shoe structure, the platform cover at the forepart being turned over the edges of the platform and secured as by cement to the face of the platform 'which is upper-most in Figure 13;
  • Figure 14 is a side elevation of a completed shoe made according to my invention.
  • Figure 15 is a view similar to Figure 4 but showing a modification in which the insole element extends only at the shank and heel regions;
  • Figure 16 is a perspective of the insoleelemen of Figure 15.
  • Figure 17 is a plan view looking down on Figure 15 but with the marginal portions of the sock-lining at the'shank and heel regions turned over the edges of the insole element and secured as by cement to'the face of the insole element Which'is upper-most in Figure 17.
  • the shoe upper I9 is representative of footwear uppers in general and may be of any'desired style and design. However, my invention is limited to footwear structures whose upper has only its shank and heel portions lasted.
  • the upper Ill is prestitched to a socklining'l2 r l2 around the forepart while the upper is free of a last.
  • the sock-lining I2 is V covering strip I8 is stitched to the forepart of the upper exteriorly thereof either by separate stitching or preferably by the same stitches I6 that secure the upper and sock-lining together.
  • the platform cover strip I8 is stitched with its surface which is to be exposed laid against the outer surface of the upper, as best seen in Figs. 1 and 2, so I that the free portion 'of strip I8 later may be turned over the edges of a platform element as later will appear.
  • a platform and heel unit is pre-formed for unitary embodiment in the shoe.
  • Fig. I shows the platform element, designated 28, upon which a plurality of heel lift elements 30, 32 shown in Figs. 10 and 11, are secured.
  • One or more of the heel lift elements 30 are arranged on the side of the platform which is to be upper-most in the shoe in use, and one or more of the shorter heel lift elements 32 are arranged on the opposite or under side of the
  • the platform and the heel lifts may be of any suitable material but preferably will be of a resiliently yieldable material such as felt orother matted fibre for cushioning shocks incident to use ofthe" shoe.
  • these elements have their edges bound with fabric or the like to provide finished edges where they are to be exposed.
  • the binding on the platform is only at the shank and heel regions because the forepart of the platform is to be subsequently covered by the platform cover strip I8. 7
  • Figs. 12 and 13 show the platform and heel unit with its elements secured together as by cement and also by staples 34 which extend through the platform-element 28 and through all of the heel lift elements30, 32.
  • a suitable shank stiffener 36 intervenes between the platform element and a heel lift element 30 or, if the platform is made of two superimposed gether, a last 20 is slipped into the upper between the upper and sock-lining. It is a feature of importance that when the upper has an open rear part as at 22 in Fig. 1, the last easily and quickly may be slipped into the upper through this real opening 22 instead of through the foot opening in the upper which latter is more difficult and consumes a greater amount of time.
  • the upper and sock-lining are free of each other at their shank and heel regions when the last is being inserted, they readily may be spread apart as needed to accommodate the last, and the heel strap portion 24 of the upper easily may be positioned over the last after the last is in place.
  • an insole element 26 is laid in place within the margin excess portions I4 of the sock-lining I2.
  • the confronting faces of sock-lining and insole will be I cemented throughout and the marginal excesses I4 are turned over the insole edges all around the insole and cemented as in Figs. 6-8 to the exposed face oftheinsole.
  • the platform cover strip I8 is .turned over the edges of the platform around the .forepart and is cemented to the outsole side of the platform as seen in Fig, 13, after which an outsole 38 is applied and secured, as by cement, to provide the completed shoe illustrated in Fig. 14.
  • the platform element of a material capable of preserving the desired generally fiat shape at the base of the forepart of the shoe.
  • the platform for example, may be of leather or imitation leather, or paper board which, in conjunction with the outsole, can effectively maintain the desired shape of the shoe.
  • the method of making an article of footwear comprising providing an over-size full length sock-lining and stitching it to an upper around only the foreparts thereof while the upper is free of a last and leaving the shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining free of each other, slipping a last into the upper between the upper and sock-lining, laying an insole element on the exposed face of the sock-lining and turning the marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining over upon the exposed surface of the insole element and securing them in said turned over relation, and then lasting the rear portions of the upper over upon the insole element and securing them in said lasted over relation to provide an intermediate footwear structure, followed by applying and securing outsole and heel elements to the described intermediate footwear structure.
  • the method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a full length over-size sock-lining to an upper around only the foreparts thereof while the upper is free of a last, the shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining being left free of each other so that a last can he slipped between them into the pre-stitched forepart, inserting a last between the free rear portions of upper and sock-lining into the pre-stitched forepart, placing an insole element on the exposed outer face of the sock-lining with marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining projecting beyond the edges of the insole element, turning said projecting marginal excess portions of the sock-lining over the edges of the insole element and securing them to the exposed face of the insole element, and then lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing them to the exposed face of the insole element, followed by completion of the article by applying and securing thereto outsole and heel elements.
  • the method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a full length over-size sock-lining to the upper only around the foreparts thereof so that the shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining are free of each other, and then slipping a last into the upper, after which an insole element is arranged on the exposed outer face of the socklining, and marginal excess portions of the oversize sock-lining, projecting beyond the edges of the insole element, are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the exposed face thereof, followed by lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing lasted over portions thereof to the exposed face of the insole element, and finally applying and securing in place the desired outsole and heel elements.
  • the method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a full length over-size sock-lining to a last-free upper around only the foreparts thereof so that the shank and heel regions of the upper and socklining are free of each other, inserting a last between the free rear portions of the upper and sock-lining and into the pre-stitched forepart of the article, placing a full length insole element on the exposed outer face of the sock-lining so that marginal excess portions of the over-size sock lining project beyond the edges of the insole all around the insole, turning said marginal excess portions of sock-lining over the edges of the insole element and securing said portions to the outer face of the insole element all around the margin of the latter, lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing lasted over portions thereof to the outer face of the insole element, providing a platform and heel unit and securing it on the outer face of the insole element, followed by applying and securing an outsole to said platform and heel
  • the method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a platform cover strip and a full length over-size sock-lining to a last-free upper around only the forepart of the upper so that shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining are free of each other, inserting a last between the free rear portions of the upper and sock-lining and into the pre-stitched forepart of the article, placing an insole element on the outer face of the sock-lining with marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining projecting beyond the edges of the insole element, turning said marginal excess portions of the sock-lining over the edges of, the insole element and securing them to the outer face of the insole element, lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing lasted over portions thereof to the outer face of the insole element, providing a platform and heel unit and placing and securing it on the outer side of the insole element, turning said platform cover strip over the edges of the platform at its forepart region and securing said
  • the method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a platform cover strip and a full length over-size sock-lining to a last-free upper around only the forepart of the upper so that shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining are free of each other, inserting a last between the free rear portions of the upper and sock-lining and into the pre-stitched forepart of the article, providing a half insole element and placing it on the outer side of the sock-lining so that it has extent only at the shank and heel regions of the article and so that marginal excess portions of the sock-lining project beyond the edges of the insole element at the shank and heel regions, turning said marginal excess portions of the socklining over the edges of the insole element and securing them to the outer faceof theinsole element, lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing lasted over portions thereof to the outer face of the insole element, providing a platform and heel unit and placing and securing it on the outer side of the in
  • An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element, said upper beinglasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the upper including securement thereof to the lasted over portions of the upper and to the outer face of the insole element at the shank and heel regions, and an outsole secured to said platform and heel unit.
  • An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length over-size sock-lining stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, a full length insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element all around the margin thereof, said upper being lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the insole element, a platform cover strip stitched to the upper at its forepart and turned over the edges of the forepart of the platform and secured to the outer face thereof, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.
  • An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, a half insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining and having extent only in the shank and heel regions of the article and having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of said over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face thereof, said upper being'lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of the insole element, a platform and heel unit secured to the lasted over portions of the upper and to the outer face of the insole ele-' ment at the shank and heel regions and secured to the outer face of the sock-lining at the forepart region, a platform cover strip stitched to the forepart of the upper and turned over the edges-of the forepart of the platform and secured to the outer face of the platform, and an out
  • An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of- -over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element, said upper'being lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the upper comprising a full length platform element and a plurality of heel lift elements disposed on opposite sides of the platform at the shank and heel regions, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.
  • An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element, said upper being lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the upper comprising a full length platform element and a plurality of heel lift elements of which at least one of the lift elements has generally wedge shape and is disposed above the platform at the shank and heel regions, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.
  • An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element, said upper being lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the upper comprising a full length platform element and a plurality of heel lift elements of which at least one of the lift elements is of resiliently compressible material and of generally wedge shape and is disposed above said platform element at the shank and heel regions, a platform cover strip stitched to the upper around its forepart and turned over the edges of the forepart of the platform and secured to the outer face of the platform, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces of the

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  • Theoretical Computer Science (AREA)
  • Quality & Reliability (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

0t 16, 1945. R, MAUNG 2,386,809
FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Sept. 19, 1944 5 Sheets-Sheet l Oct. 16, 1945. MAUNG 2,386,809
FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Sept; 19, 1944 s Sheets-Sheet 2- Oct. 16, 1945. R. MALING 2,386,809
FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Sept. 19, 1944 3 Shets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR.
Patented Oct. 16, 1945 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Roy Maling, West Roxbury, Mass.
Application September 19, 1944, Serial No. 554,796
13 Claims. (01. 36-195) This invention relates to improvements in footwear and methods of producing the same. More particularly it provides improvements in shoes and slippers of the general variety in which the uppers are lasted only in the shank and heel regions thereof.
Footwear of the general type to which my present invention relates have so-called slip-lasted foreparts which means that the forepart of the upper is stitched all around the forepart to a base element while the upper is free of a last, and subsequently a last is slipped into the pre-stitched forepart between the upper and said base element, preliminary to a lasting of the rear portions of the upper. The base element which is thus pre-stitched to the forepart of the upper may be an insole but usually is a flexible sheet of fabric which may serve the purpose of a socklining and be exposed interiorly of the finished shoe or slipper. After the last is slipped into the pre-stitched forepart, the rear portions of the upper may be lasted thereon, and the outsole and heel elements applied.
It is an} object of my invention to provide a simplified method of producing such shoes and slippers and to provide an improved product, as compared with prior methods and structures. I employ a full length sock-lining element which can be stitched as in thepast to the upper all around the forepart while the upper is free of a last, and which is over-size throughout or at least at its shank and heel covering regions, to provide marginal portions which may be turned over the edges of an insole element and be secured as by'cement to the under surface of the insole element after a last has been slipped into the prestitched forepart and preparatory to lasting of the rear portions of the upper and their securement as by cement to the under surface of the insole element.
It is a feature that the full length sock-lining element may be over-size throughout to provide all-around marginal portions for being turned over-the edges of a full length insole element, or only the shank and. heel covering regions of the sock-lining may have the turn-over portions for binding the edges of an insole element having extent only in the shank and heel regions.
'Another object is to provide a method which involves no temporary fastening of any shoe part to the last prior to insertion of the last in the pre-stitched forepart of the upper. According to my invention the adjacent faces of the sock-lining and insole element preferably are cemented together throughout the extent of the insole element, and the sock-lining can be drawn smooth and tight over the insole element as the marginal portions of the sock-lining are turned over the edges of the' insole. The insole element thus secured by the sock-lining constitutes a composite base element to which the rear portionspf the upper may be secured when lasted.
A feature is that the rear portions of the socklining and upper continue free of each other after stitching of the sock-lining and upper around the forepart, so that a last easily and quickly may be slipped into the pre-stitched forepart by thrusting it between the free rear portions of the sock-lining and upper, as distinguished from having to insert the last through the foot opening in the upper.
Another object is to provide a pre-formed platform, heel and shank unit which may be cemented or otherwise secured to the shoe structure after the rear portions of the upper have been lasted and which, under the pressure of application, automatically conforms approximately to the under surface of the lasted portions of the structure, thereby avoiding the need for filler materials.
Still another object is to provide apre-formed platform, heel and shank unit in which the heel may have various shapes and which includes an under side for receiving an outsole which may be cemented or otherwise secured in place.
It is, moreover, my purpose and object generally to improve upon prior shoe-making methods and structures.
In the accompanying drawings:
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe upper having an over-size full length sock-lining stitched interiorly thereto at the forepart only and having a platform cover secured exteriorly thereto;
Figure 2 is a bottom plan view of the structure of Figure 1;
Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view on line 3-3 of Figure 1; g
Figure 4 is a cross-sectional view showing a last slipped into the pie-stitched structure of Figures1-3, and a full length insole laid in place;
Figure 5 is a cross-sectional view on line 55 of Figure 4;
Figure 6 is a top plan view of Figure l but showing the marginal portions of the sock-lining turned over the edges of the ins-ole and cemented to the face of the insole which is upper-most in i ure 4; v
Figure 7 is a cross-sectional view on line 'l-T of Figure 6; p
Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure 6 but showing the rear portions of upper lasted and cemented to the insole;
Figure 9 is a plan view of a platform element having its edges bound at the shank and heel regions thereof;
Figures 10 and 11 are plan views of two heel lift elements; p
Figure 12 is a plan view showing'the platform element of Figure 9 and the heel liftelements of Figures 10 and 11 after being combinedj j Figure 13' 'isa cross-sectional view showing the unitary platform and heel of Figure 12 secured in place in my shoe structure, the platform cover at the forepart being turned over the edges of the platform and secured as by cement to the face of the platform 'which is upper-most in Figure 13;
Figure 14 is a side elevation of a completed shoe made according to my invention;
Figure 15 is a view similar to Figure 4 but showing a modification in which the insole element extends only at the shank and heel regions;
Figure 16 is a perspective of the insoleelemen of Figure 15; and
Figure 17 is a plan view looking down on Figure 15 but with the marginal portions of the sock-lining at the'shank and heel regions turned over the edges of the insole element and secured as by cement to'the face of the insole element Which'is upper-most in Figure 17.
Referring to the drawings, the shoe upper I9 is representative of footwear uppers in general and may be of any'desired style and design. However, my invention is limited to footwear structures whose upper has only its shank and heel portions lasted.
According to my invention, the upper Ill is prestitched to a socklining'l2 r l2 around the forepart while the upper is free of a last. In the embodiment of Figs. l-14, the sock-lining I2 is V covering strip I8 is stitched to the forepart of the upper exteriorly thereof either by separate stitching or preferably by the same stitches I6 that secure the upper and sock-lining together. The platform cover strip I8 is stitched with its surface which is to be exposed laid against the outer surface of the upper, as best seen in Figs. 1 and 2, so I that the free portion 'of strip I8 later may be turned over the edges of a platform element as later will appear.
After the foreparts of upper and sock-lining and the cover strip I8 have been stitched toplatform element.
lasted over upon and cemented to the insole element 26 as shown in Fig. 8.
According to my invention, a platform and heel unit is pre-formed for unitary embodiment in the shoe. Fig. I) shows the platform element, designated 28, upon which a plurality of heel lift elements 30, 32 shown in Figs. 10 and 11, are secured. One or more of the heel lift elements 30 are arranged on the side of the platform which is to be upper-most in the shoe in use, and one or more of the shorter heel lift elements 32 are arranged on the opposite or under side of the The platform and the heel lifts may be of any suitable material but preferably will be of a resiliently yieldable material such as felt orother matted fibre for cushioning shocks incident to use ofthe" shoe. As represented, these elements have their edges bound with fabric or the like to provide finished edges where they are to be exposed. The binding on the platform is only at the shank and heel regions because the forepart of the platform is to be subsequently covered by the platform cover strip I8. 7
Figs. 12 and 13 show the platform and heel unit with its elements secured together as by cement and also by staples 34 which extend through the platform-element 28 and through all of the heel lift elements30, 32. Preferably a suitable shank stiffener 36 intervenes between the platform element and a heel lift element 30 or, if the platform is made of two superimposed gether, a last 20 is slipped into the upper between the upper and sock-lining. It is a feature of importance that when the upper has an open rear part as at 22 in Fig. 1, the last easily and quickly may be slipped into the upper through this real opening 22 instead of through the foot opening in the upper which latter is more difficult and consumes a greater amount of time. Inasmuch as the upper and sock-lining are free of each other at their shank and heel regions when the last is being inserted, they readily may be spread apart as needed to accommodate the last, and the heel strap portion 24 of the upper easily may be positioned over the last after the last is in place.
When the last has been slipped into the, upper as in Figs. 4 and 5, an insole element 26 is laid in place within the margin excess portions I4 of the sock-lining I2. Preferably the confronting faces of sock-lining and insole will be I cemented throughout and the marginal excesses I4 are turned over the insole edges all around the insole and cemented as in Figs. 6-8 to the exposed face oftheinsole.
The shoe of Figs. 6 and '7 is now ready for lasting of the rearportions of its upperwhicl 'are layers of platform material, th shank stiifener conveniently may intervene between its two layers. In any event, the heel lift element 30, of felt or the like, conforms under pressure generally to the shape of the adjacent confronting surfaces so that there is no need for fillter elements or substances.
After the platform and heel unit has been secured in place, the platform cover strip I8 is .turned over the edges of the platform around the .forepart and is cemented to the outsole side of the platform as seen in Fig, 13, after which an outsole 38 is applied and secured, as by cement, to provide the completed shoe illustrated in Fig. 14.
- Although the described structure having a full length insole element has advantages over prior footwear constructions, I consider it preferable in many cases, from the standpoint of flexibility of the shoe, to employ an insole element which has extent only in the shank and heel regions of the shoe, as illustrated in the embodiment of my invention shown in Figs. 15-17. .In Fig. 15 the upper I0, sock-lining I2 and platform cover strip I8 are. stitched as at I6 to each other the same as described in connection with Fig. 1. However, in the present modification there is no need for the marginal excess of sock-lining aroundthe forepart but only at the shank and heel regions. After the upper, sock-lining and cover strip are pre-stitched while free of a last, the last is slipped into'the upperas previously described, and the'insole element is then laid in place as before except that the insole element 26 in the present case extends only in the shank and heel regions. The marginal excess of socklining is turned over' the edges of the insole element 26"at the shank and heel regions precisely as. in the first described form, and the subsequent steps to completion of the shoe are the same'as in the first'described form. However,
sincerthere is no extent of the insole element 28" into the forepart of the shoe in this'present modification, I prefer to make the platform element of a material capable of preserving the desired generally fiat shape at the base of the forepart of the shoe. The platform, for example, may be of leather or imitation leather, or paper board which, in conjunction with the outsole, can effectively maintain the desired shape of the shoe.
I claim as my invention:
1. The method of making an article of footwear comprising providing an over-size full length sock-lining and stitching it to an upper around only the foreparts thereof while the upper is free of a last and leaving the shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining free of each other, slipping a last into the upper between the upper and sock-lining, laying an insole element on the exposed face of the sock-lining and turning the marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining over upon the exposed surface of the insole element and securing them in said turned over relation, and then lasting the rear portions of the upper over upon the insole element and securing them in said lasted over relation to provide an intermediate footwear structure, followed by applying and securing outsole and heel elements to the described intermediate footwear structure.
2. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a full length over-size sock-lining to an upper around only the foreparts thereof while the upper is free of a last, the shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining being left free of each other so that a last can he slipped between them into the pre-stitched forepart, inserting a last between the free rear portions of upper and sock-lining into the pre-stitched forepart, placing an insole element on the exposed outer face of the sock-lining with marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining projecting beyond the edges of the insole element, turning said projecting marginal excess portions of the sock-lining over the edges of the insole element and securing them to the exposed face of the insole element, and then lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing them to the exposed face of the insole element, followed by completion of the article by applying and securing thereto outsole and heel elements.
3. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a full length over-size sock-lining to the upper only around the foreparts thereof so that the shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining are free of each other, and then slipping a last into the upper, after which an insole element is arranged on the exposed outer face of the socklining, and marginal excess portions of the oversize sock-lining, projecting beyond the edges of the insole element, are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the exposed face thereof, followed by lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing lasted over portions thereof to the exposed face of the insole element, and finally applying and securing in place the desired outsole and heel elements.
a. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a full length over-size sock-lining to a last-free upper around only the foreparts thereof so that the shank and heel regions of the upper and socklining are free of each other, inserting a last between the free rear portions of the upper and sock-lining and into the pre-stitched forepart of the article, placing a full length insole element on the exposed outer face of the sock-lining so that marginal excess portions of the over-size sock lining project beyond the edges of the insole all around the insole, turning said marginal excess portions of sock-lining over the edges of the insole element and securing said portions to the outer face of the insole element all around the margin of the latter, lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing lasted over portions thereof to the outer face of the insole element, providing a platform and heel unit and securing it on the outer face of the insole element, followed by applying and securing an outsole to said platform and heel unit.
5. The method of making an article of footgions of the upper and sock-lining are free of each other, inserting a last between the free rear portions of the upper and'sock-lining and into the pre-stitched forepart of the article, placing a full length insole element on the outer face of the sock-lining with marginal excess portions of the over-size sock lining projecting beyond the edges of the insole element all around the latter, turning said marginal excess portions of the socklining over the edges of the insole element and securing them to the outer face of the insole element, lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing lasted overportions thereof to the outer face of the insole element, providing a platform and heel unit and placing and securing it on the outer face of the insole element, turning said platform cover strip over the edges of the platform at its forepart region and securing said turned over cover strip to the outer face of the platform, followed by applying and securing an outsole to said platform and heel unit.
6. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a platform cover strip and a full length over-size sock-lining to a last-free upper around only the forepart of the upper so that shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining are free of each other, inserting a last between the free rear portions of the upper and sock-lining and into the pre-stitched forepart of the article, placing an insole element on the outer face of the sock-lining with marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining projecting beyond the edges of the insole element, turning said marginal excess portions of the sock-lining over the edges of, the insole element and securing them to the outer face of the insole element, lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing lasted over portions thereof to the outer face of the insole element, providing a platform and heel unit and placing and securing it on the outer side of the insole element, turning said platform cover strip over the edges of the platform at its forepart region and securing said turned over cover strip to the outer face of the platform, followed by applying and securing an outsole to said platform and heel unit.
"1. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises the steps of stitching a platform cover strip and a full length over-size sock-lining to a last-free upper around only the forepart of the upper so that shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining are free of each other, inserting a last between the free rear portions of the upper and sock-lining and into the pre-stitched forepart of the article, providing a half insole element and placing it on the outer side of the sock-lining so that it has extent only at the shank and heel regions of the article and so that marginal excess portions of the sock-lining project beyond the edges of the insole element at the shank and heel regions, turning said marginal excess portions of the socklining over the edges of the insole element and securing them to the outer faceof theinsole element, lasting the rear portions of the upper and securing lasted over portions thereof to the outer face of the insole element, providing a platform and heel unit and placing and securing it on the outer side of the insole element at the shank and heel regions and on the outer side of the sock-lining at the forepart region, turning said platform cover strip over the edges of the platform at the forepart region and securing said turned over cover strip to the outer face of the platform, followed by applying and. securing an outsole to said platform and heel unit.
8. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element, said upper beinglasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the upper including securement thereof to the lasted over portions of the upper and to the outer face of the insole element at the shank and heel regions, and an outsole secured to said platform and heel unit.
9. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length over-size sock-lining stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, a full length insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element all around the margin thereof, said upper being lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the insole element, a platform cover strip stitched to the upper at its forepart and turned over the edges of the forepart of the platform and secured to the outer face thereof, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.
10. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, a half insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining and having extent only in the shank and heel regions of the article and having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of said over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face thereof, said upper being'lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of the insole element, a platform and heel unit secured to the lasted over portions of the upper and to the outer face of the insole ele-' ment at the shank and heel regions and secured to the outer face of the sock-lining at the forepart region, a platform cover strip stitched to the forepart of the upper and turned over the edges-of the forepart of the platform and secured to the outer face of the platform, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.
11. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of- -over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element, said upper'being lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the upper comprising a full length platform element and a plurality of heel lift elements disposed on opposite sides of the platform at the shank and heel regions, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.
12. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element, said upper being lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the upper comprising a full length platform element and a plurality of heel lift elements of which at least one of the lift elements has generally wedge shape and is disposed above the platform at the shank and heel regions, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.
13. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insole element on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole element, said upper being lasted only at regions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit secured below the upper comprising a full length platform element and a plurality of heel lift elements of which at least one of the lift elements is of resiliently compressible material and of generally wedge shape and is disposed above said platform element at the shank and heel regions, a platform cover strip stitched to the upper around its forepart and turned over the edges of the forepart of the platform and secured to the outer face of the platform, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces of the said platform and heel unit.
ROY MALING.
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Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2425420A (en) * 1945-08-25 1947-08-12 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe and method of making the same
US2442511A (en) * 1945-07-30 1948-06-01 Saul L Erlich Open-back type shoe construction
US2445847A (en) * 1946-01-09 1948-07-27 United Shoe Machinery Corp Platform type shoe
US2468617A (en) * 1945-11-29 1949-04-26 Fred J Diamant Method of constructing platform shoes
US2495590A (en) * 1945-07-28 1950-01-24 Meltzer Jack Shoe construction
US2641005A (en) * 1950-07-17 1953-06-09 Naaley Magen Ltd Method of making platform sandals
US2710366A (en) * 1952-12-08 1955-06-07 Jr Joseph S Stern Static discharging shoe
US2809450A (en) * 1954-11-24 1957-10-15 United Shoe Machinery Corp Flexible insoles provided with removable forepart stiffening means
US2853807A (en) * 1954-07-29 1958-09-30 United Shoe Machinery Corp Slip lasted shoe the parts of which are united by a single locally reinforced seam
US2964766A (en) * 1955-10-05 1960-12-20 Beckerman & Sons Inc M Method of making stitchdown shoe

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2495590A (en) * 1945-07-28 1950-01-24 Meltzer Jack Shoe construction
US2442511A (en) * 1945-07-30 1948-06-01 Saul L Erlich Open-back type shoe construction
US2425420A (en) * 1945-08-25 1947-08-12 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe and method of making the same
US2468617A (en) * 1945-11-29 1949-04-26 Fred J Diamant Method of constructing platform shoes
US2445847A (en) * 1946-01-09 1948-07-27 United Shoe Machinery Corp Platform type shoe
US2641005A (en) * 1950-07-17 1953-06-09 Naaley Magen Ltd Method of making platform sandals
US2710366A (en) * 1952-12-08 1955-06-07 Jr Joseph S Stern Static discharging shoe
US2853807A (en) * 1954-07-29 1958-09-30 United Shoe Machinery Corp Slip lasted shoe the parts of which are united by a single locally reinforced seam
US2809450A (en) * 1954-11-24 1957-10-15 United Shoe Machinery Corp Flexible insoles provided with removable forepart stiffening means
US2964766A (en) * 1955-10-05 1960-12-20 Beckerman & Sons Inc M Method of making stitchdown shoe

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