US2348381A - Thread cutter for sewing machines - Google Patents

Description

May 9, 1944. o. R HAAS THREAD C QTTER FOR SEWING MACHINES Filled Nov. 25, 1940 7 sheets-sheet 2 y 944- I o. R. HAAS 2,348,381

THREAD CUTTER FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Nov; 23, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 May.9, 1944. o. R. HAAs 2,348,381

' THREAD CUTTER FOR SEWING MACHINES v Filed Nov. 23, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet' 5- May 9, 1944.

0. R. |-|AAs THREAD CUTTER FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed NOV. 25, 1940 '7 Sheets-Sheet 6 May.9, 1944. o. R. HAAS THREAD CUTTER FOR SEWING MACHINES v Filed Nov. 23, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet 7 Patented May 9, 1944 UNITED STATE S PATENT OFFICE K United -Shoc Machinery Corporation, Fleming- 7 ton, N. .L, a corporation of New Jersey Application November 23, 1940, Serial No. 366,895

28 Claims.

The present invention rel-ates to shoe sewing machines and more particularly to improvements in thread cutters for severing the thread at the end of a seam in such machines. A's hereinafter illustrated, the features of the invention are embodied in acurved hook needle outsole shoe sewing machine ofthe type disclosed in the present inventors prior U. S; Letters Patents Nos. 2,045,- 644 of June 30, 1936 and 2,201,969 of May 21, 1940, and in the-patent to Gouldbourn et al. No. 2,056,- 6'70 of October 6, 1936.

The objects of the present invention are to simplify the construction and improve the mode of operation of a thread cutter mechanism in a shoe sewing machine and to render the use of the thread cutter less objectionable than heretofore from the standpoint of an operator in presenting a shoe to the machine and less likely to interfere either with the mechanical operation of the machine or with the operators line of vision as the position of the shoe is changed about the point of operation of the stitch forming devices during sewing.

The usual presentday shoe sewing machine is provided with a driving mechanism for starting sewing operations and for disconnecting the main driver in the form of an electric motor or a line shafting from the machine at the end of a seam. Most shoe sewing machines in commercial use employ also stopping mechanisms arranged to bring the machines to rest at a predetermined position with the stitch forming devices free of the work. Heretofore, thread cutting mechanisms have sometimes been provided in shoe sewing machines having driving and stopping mechanisms, the cutting mechanism in such a machine being actuated through direct connections with a sewing shaft by continued movement of th machine after disconnection of the main driver. The actuation of the thread cutting mechanism in this way depends upon the momentum of the stitch forming devices and their actuating mechanisms to carry the cutting mechanism through its cutting stroke. While a momentum actuated thread cu ting mechanism is satisfactory in a shoe sewing machine when carefully and expertly adjusted, slight changes in adjustment of the stop motion either due to wear or change in size of thread employed may cause improper actuation of the thread cutter. If improper adjustments are made, the machine may be brought to rest before the thread cutting stroke is completed, thus requiring special attention of the operator to insure cutting the thread and release of the work from the machine. a

In the machine of inventors prior patents, a thread cutting mechanism is provided having a knife edged member acting against the surface of a shoe sole being sewn as a cutting block. With this type of thread cutting mechanism, substantial force is required to penetrate the material operated upon and'greater variations in resistance offered occur than where the thread only is severed, depending upon the texture of the shoe sole and the position in which the sole is located while being presented to the stitch forming devices of the machine. To obviate the necessity of frequent adjustments, the thread cutter in the machine of inventors prior patents isactuated by power driven mechanism separate from the sewing mechanisms so that the thread cutting mechanism, when thrown into operation, continues its movements after the machine is brought to rest. The provision of power driven thread cutting mechanism, separate from the stitch forming devices of a shoe sewing machine to which it is attached, requires the addition of a driving shaft separate from the sewing shaft and an automatically controlled clutch for coupling the sewing shaft with the thread cutting mechanism shaft. The addition of this thread cutting mechanism shaft and clutch not only increasesthe expense of manufacturing the machine, but also presents a further problem in mounting the additional parts on the machine in operating relationship t the stitch forming devices at a location already crowded with stitch forming device actuating mechanisms.

"A more specific object of the present invention is i to provide a thread cutting mechanism for a shoe sewing machine hich may be actuated with certainty through its complet cutting stroke without the addition of a separate thread cutting mechanism shaft or clutch to the machine or the necessity of frequent adjustments as with a momentum-actuated thread cutting mechanism.

With these and other objects in view, the present invention relates to the provision in a shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices actuated by one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts, a main driver, and means for disconnecting the driver from the sewing shafts at the end of a seam, of a thread cutter actuated by direct connection with the sewing shafts towards and from cutting relationship with the thread before the main driver is disconnected from the sewing shafts at the end of the seam. By actuating the thread cutter directly from the sewing shafts, the addition of extrashafts or clutches is rendered unnecessary, and by actuating the cutter before the main driver is disconnected, frequent adjustments to balance the resistance offered by the thread against the momentum of the machine is avoided. This feature of the invention, as hereinafter described, is embodied in a machine having a stopping mechanism and the actuation of the thread cutter is controlled by the stopping mechanism. Preferably, the thread cutter is actuated by a cam driven by one of the sewing shafts and in the present form of this feature, a cam lever operated continuously and idly during sewing is connected to a second lever to actuate the thread cutter at the end of the seam.

In the machine of inventors Patent No. 2,201,- 969, there is provided a thread cutter arranged to sever the thread while the work remains clamped in position between the work support and presser foot and, to support the cutter in the machine for movement towards and from operative position so that the cutter will not interfere with the line of vision of the operator or with the movements of the shoe while changing the positions of the shoe to present it properly to the stitch forming devices, a carrier for the cutter is provided mounted for movement at right angles to the surface of the work. When raised from operating position, the cutter of the patent moves with the carrier but still projects forwardly of the machine where it may, under some conditions, interfere with the sewing operation.

According to another feature of the present invention, the carrier for the cutter is guided formovements towards and away from operative position in front of the seam line along a path inclined to the surface of the work rearwardly of the machine while moving away from the work. By arranging the carrier for movement along an inclined path, the carrier is brought completely out of the range of the shoe during the positioning movements thereof and does not obscure in any way the operators line of vision. In order to avoid interference with the presser foot, the path taken by the present cutter carrier has a curvature bending around the presser foot. In the present form of this feature, the path of the cutter carrier is arcuate with a center coinciding with the fulcrum of the presser foot.

Other objects and features of the invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a view in side elevation, looking from the left, of the upper portion of a shoe sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention; Fig. 2 is a sectional view, on an enlarged scale, showing high and low speed driving mechanisms and the stopping mechanism on the main shaft of the sewing machine illustrated .in Fig; 1; Fig. is a viewinlrig ht side. elevation of the upper portion of the .irnachiriefineludingv the thread cutter; g'l ffsa dtaifviewl in left side elevation of the "thread cuttefif indicating the action of a thread pull-Iofi fingering; v5 l is a detail view of ;a guispiadeatie: element .f in the actuating connections of thei'thread cutter; -Fig. dis a planwie w of the parts illus'trated 'i'nFig. 3; Fig j is a 'plan illustrating a Dart'of the stopping. mecl ianisn of" the .r'riac'hinej Fig. 81' is an endyiew from-the ft-hand side of fthefmachine showing. th arts of the stoppin mechani m Fi "7-, Fig; 9 ista.detail viewlin illustrated 11' rear i ele vation the controlling-I connections for the 'threaol; cutter'with the Z machine in. stopped position; Fig. 10 isadetail'viw"6f a'por'tion' of the controlling connections illustrated in Fig. 9 in positions assumed when the machine is running; Fig. 11 is a similar view of the connections when disconnected and with the machine running; Fig. 12 is another similar detail view of the connections after being disconnected, indicating the positions taken as the machine comes to rest; Fig. 13 is a sectional plan view taken along the line l3l3 of Fig. 9'; Fig. 14 is a view in right side elevation, on an enlarged scale, of the thread cutter and a portion of its actuating connections, with the cutter moved away from the work; Fig. 15 is a similar view of the same parts illustrating the manner in which the cutter severs the thread against the surface of an outsole at the end of a seam; Fig. 16 is a view in front elevation of the same parts with the cutter in cutting position; Fig. 17 is a detail view of the cutter looking in the direction of the arrow I! in Fig. 14; Fig. 18 is a sectional plan view of a portion of the controlling connections and actuating mechanism for the thread cutter; Fig. 19 is a sectional side view of the same connections and mechanism; Figs. 20, 21 and 22 are perspective views of the same connections in positions assumed when the sewing machine is stopped, running and at the end of a seam during operation of the cutter, respectively; Fig. 23 is a detail view of a portion of the disconnectible cutter actuating connections; Fig. 24 is a detail perspective view, looking from beneath, of a portion of the disconnectible cutter control connections; Fig. 25 is a sectional detail view of a portion of the disconnectible connections; Fig. 26 is a sectional detail View of a portion of the actuating mechanism for the thread cutter, taken along the line 26-26 of Fig. 14; and Fig. 27 is a similar view of the same connections taken along. the line 21-21 of Fig. 15.

'The machine illustrated in the drawings is a curved needle lockstitch outsole shoe sewing machine having high and low speed driving and stopping mechanisms. The machine is equipped with a thread cutter driven from one of a number of simultaneously rotating sewing shafts, during the last stitch forming and setting cycle of a seam only to sever the thread, the thread severing stroke of the cutter being properly timed with the movements of the stitch forming devices to avoid interference with the stitch forming devices. To insure that adequate force is available for overcoming the resistance offered by the thread to the cutter during its thread severing stroke and that the stitch forming devices will be driven through the complete final stitch forming and setting cycle within which the thread severing stroke occurs, according to the present invention, the actuating mechanism includes direct connections with one of the sewing shafts toactuate the cutter towards cutting relationship with the fthIGadS'TQHdf at least through some part 'ofits return stroke before} the main driver for thema chine is disconnected; thus eliminating uncertainties bidinarily en countered when; the 'momentum of thesewing shaft and the stitch formingdevice actuating mechanisms is relied up'on to' actuate the threadcutter afterthe m'ain" driver has been rendered Except as hereinafter pointed --out'i the stitch forming devices and" the high and low speed driving and stopping mechanisms are thesame in construction and 'manner of oper ation as disclosed in the'patent to Gouldbour'n- The curved needle of the illustrated machine is indicated at 2 (see Fig. 3), a curved awl at '4, a shuttle at 5 (Fig. 1), other stitch forming devices and their actuating mechanisms not being specifically referred to. The stitch forming devices with their actuating mechanisms are driven from one or another of the simultaneously rotating sewing shafts including the shafts 6 and 1, all the sewing shafts completing at least one rotation while each stitch is being formed and set. To clamp the projecting edge of a shoe outsole being operated upon, the front of the machine is provided with a work support 8 and a presser foot 9 actuated by the sewing shafts to clamp, feed and release that portion of the work operated upon and then to back feed into starting position during each sewing cycle.

The high and low speed driving mechanism comprises high and low speed driving belts I0 and I2, respectively. The high speed driving belt I0 engages. a relatively small pulley I4 and the low speed driving belt I2 a relatively large pulley I6, both mounted on the sewing shaft 6. When the sewing shafts are to be driven, the pulleys are connected to the sewing shaft 6 through a driving clutch member I8 secured to but axially movable along the shaft 6 and provided with a coned clutching surface shaped to engage a correspond-- ing surface in a recess of a pulley supporting-disklike driver member I9 rotatably mounted on the sewing shaft 6. To connect the driver member to the shaft, the clutch member is urged towards the driver member by a series of axial coiled springs compressed between the clutch member and a collar 22 on the main shaft. Control of the clutch member is provided by a treadle (not shown) operating through connections including a treadle rod 24, an arm 26, a rotatable shaft '28 to wh ch the arm is fixed, a cam member secured to the shaft 28, a three-armed clutch controlling lever 32 having an arm arranged in the path of the cam 30 and another arm provided with a lock block 33 forming a hook cooperating with ablock 34 at the lower end of a lever 36 having a swash ring 38 freely mounted in a groove formed in the hub of the clutch I8. The clutch lever 52 normally is spring actuated towards the block on the swash ring lever 36. a

When the treadle is depressed, the rod 24 is raised, causing the cam 30 toshi'f t the clutch controlling lever 32 away from the block 34 on the lever 36, thus releasing the clutch member lfi for movement axially towards the driver member I9. At the same time, the clutch member I8 is released, the low speed driving belt I2 is being driven and the high speed driving belt "is moving idly over the pulley I4 by driving means more fully described in the Gouldbourn patent, Upon further downward movement of the'treadle, power is applied to high speed driving belt Ill and the low speed driving belt I2 in turn passes id-1y over the low speed driving pulley IE so that suitable control is exercised to increase or decrease the speed of the sewing shaft 5. At the end of a seam. when the treadle is released and the treadle rod 24 allowed to descend, the clutch controlling lever 32 is allowed to engage the block 34 on the lever 35, causing the clutch member id to be drawn by the action of the swash ring 38 away from the driver member and to bring a braking ring 40 on the clutch member against theface of a clutch supporting bracket 42 forming a part of the machine frame. The groove in the clutch member I8 for receiving the swash ring 38 is gout at the proper angle to cause the sewing shaft to brought uniformly to rest with the stitch forming devices including the needle and awl free of the work and the final stitch in the seam completed.

In order to insure that the speed of the sewing shafts will be reduced to the speed of the low speed driving belt I2 before the sewing shafts are brought to rest, the large pulley I6 is mounted for relativ movement on the driver member I9 and carries a small block 44 entering between forked portions at one end of a lever 46 having a fulcrum pin 48 on the driver member I9 and a wedge-shaped end engaging a recess in a stem 50 slidably mounted in the hub of the disk member I9. The end of the stem 50 extends beyond the end of the shaft 6, being bent inwardly across the latter and is clamped to one end of a rod 52 slidingly mounted within an axial bore of the shaft. The operation of the stopping mechanism is delayed until the rod 52 is actuated lengthwise through the connections thus described by relative movement of the low speed driving pulley I6 on the driver member I9 due to the driving force of the pulley on the driver member.

To prevent disengagement of the clutch member I 8 from the driver member I9 and to delay the operation of the stopping mechanism until the 'rod 52 is actuated lengthwise, the rod 52 has secured to it a cam piece 54 extending radially through a slot in the shaft 6. When the cam piece is shifted towards the righ end of the slot, it engages a horizontal follower lever 56 (see Figs. '7 and 8) The follower lever 56 is urged towards the shaft 6 by spring, pressure and when engaged by the cam piece 54, the lever is raised to a suitable height where it may slide axially of the sewing shaft 6 over the low portion of a cam 58 on the shaft 6. To permit movement of the lever 56 towards and from the sewing shaft 6, as well as movement axially of the shaft, the lever 56 is pivoted on a vertical pin 60 rotatabl in lugs on a block 62 fixed to one end of a horizontal rock shaft 54. When the lever 56 is raised from the shaft by the cam piece 54, a spring-pressed plunger 66 sliding in the block 62 presses against a finger piece on the lever which fits within a re' cess in the plunger and moves the lever into line with the cam 58. Before the cam piece 54 is shifted, one edge of the lever 56 presses against the side of the cam 58, holding the lever out of the path of the cam.

The clutch lever 32, when actuated by the cam 3%, is held in inoperative position by a springpressed latch If! cooperating with a plate-like portion I2 of a vertical lever 14 fulcrumed on a shaft I5 extending at right angles beneath the sewing shaft 8. The upper end of the lever I4 is ballshaped and slides within a lengthwise slotted portion of the lever 55. The arrangement is such that when the lever 56 moves into line with cam 58, the plate I2 is moved away from the latch 10 and the stoppin mechanism thrown into operation. Thereafter, during continued rotation of the sewing shaft, the presser foot is raised to release the work at the end of the seam by mechanism including the shaft 64, the lever 55 and the cam 53 which is provided with a high portion of sufilcient radius to impart the desired movement to the presser foot. pressed to start a new scam, the levers I4 and 56 are moved in the reverse directions by the cam 39 engaging a roll TI on the lever 14. The machine and its driving and'stopping mechanism thus far described is the same as in the patent to Gouirlbourn referred to. w

The thread cutter in the present machine is similar in many respects to the thread cutter of When the treadle is de-' inventois prior patents and consists of a curved knife edge member 39 of right angle section clamped at the outer end of an arm 82 (Figs. 14 to 17, inclusive) formed at one end of a cutter shaft 84. The mechanism for actuating the knife edged member is arranged to rotate the shaft 84 and move it endwise to bring the knife member into proper cutting relationship with the last stitch in the work through a path intersecting the surface of the work while the work is held clamped between the work support and the presser foot, as illustrated more clearly in Figs.

15 and 16. The path taken by the cutter, in the present machine, has a component of movement in the direction of the seam line from one side the point of operation of the stitch forming devices towards the point of operation whenthe shaft 84 is rotated, in a manner generally similar to that in Patent No. 2,201,969. The present cutter shaft '84 is rotatably mounted in a supporting block 86 which forms a carrier for the shaft movable towards and from the sole of a shoe to be operated upon. When the cutter reaches the surface of a shoe sole, in the present machine, the knife edged member penetrates the material of the sole, a first edge 85 severing the locking thread, indicated at 88, at the surface of the sole and a second edge 87 at right angles to the first edge severing the needle thread, indicated at 96, below the point of inter-engagement between the threads in the sole. Thus, both threads are severed against the resistance offered by the support of the threads in or on the shoe sole, the sole acting as a cutting block for the threads.

' In order to actuate the thread cutting mechanism in the present machine without providing power driven mechanism separate from the main sewing shafts, as in inventors patents, the cutter carrier 86 and the cutter shaft 84 are actuated to cause the knife edged member 86 to complete its cutting stroke by means of a cam 92 secured to the vertical sewing shaft 1 and rotating continuously with the shaft 6, best shown in Figs. 3

and 18. The cam 92 has a slot receiving a cam roll 94 on a cam lever 96 connected with the cutter shaft 84 and the carrier 86 through suitable disconnectible actuating connections directly actuated by the cam 92 which are disconnected during sewing operations and connected duringthe final stitch forming cycle of a seam toactuate the cutter completely through its cutting stroke. As previously stated, this occurs in the present machine before the main driving clutch member I8 is disengaged from the driver member I9. Thus, suflicient power is obtainable regardless of the resistance offered by the threads or the shoe sole to'the cutting stroke of the knife edged member 89.

The disconnectible actuating connections between lthe cam lever 96 and the cutter consistof an. arm 98 secured to a horizontal shaft I99 having bearings in the'main frame of the ma chine. The shaft I68 also forms a fulcrum. for the cam lever-96 and has'at one end extending rearwardly outside the :frame of the machine a second arm I 92 which, together with the arm 98, ,constitutes a cutter; actuating lever. The freevend of the arm I92 is bent downwardly and haspa ball headed. .pin I64 received in a socket at one end of a link I66, the other end of which has a similar socket surrounding a ball headed pin I68 mounted in an arm extending froman internally splined sleeve II 0, shown 'most jclearly in. Fig.6. ,The sleeve I I slidinglyreceives the grooved outer surfaces at the upper end of a rod II2 rotatable in the arms of a yoke II4 having a right angle trunnion II6 mounted for rocking movement in a bearing portion of the machine frame. The lower end of the rod H2 is connected through a universal joint I I8 (see Figs. 14 and 15) to the upper end of the cutter shaft 84 so that rotary movement of the rod imparts a corresponding movement to the cutter shaft.

To actuate the carrier towards and from the work, the downwardly bent end of the arm I92 means of a latching hook I39 (Fig. 23) rotatable on a pin I32 mounted in the arm 98 of the cutter lever. The hooked portion of the latching hook is moved towards and from engagement with a laterally projecting pin I34 on the cam lever 96 by control connections including a locking plate I36 mounted on a control shaft I38 rotatable in suitable bearings at the rear of the machine frame. The locking plate I36 is formed at its upper end with an L-shaped slot I 40 through which the pin I 32 passes and is also provided with a laterally projecting pin I42 cooperating with the tail piece on the latching hook I36. When the locking plate I36 is moved forwardly towards the front of the machine (to the left, as viewed in the drawings), a horizontal portion of the L-shaped slot I46 engages the pin I32 and the pin I 42 actuates the latching hook I30 away from latching engagement with the pin I34 on the cam lever. This is the condition which exists during sewing operations when the latching lever is disconnected from the cutter lever. To insure that the parts remain in this position during sewing, the locking plate I36 is engaged along its rearward surface by a spring-pressed plunger I44 (Figs. 18 and 19) slidingly mounted in a nipple I46 threaded into a rear wall of the machine frame in alignment with the locking plate I36. When the locking plate is pressed forwardly by the plunger I44, the arm 98 of the cutter lever is locked in position by the L-shaped slot I49 in the locking plate with the cutter out of operating position. When the locking plate is moved rearwardly, the pin I 32 is moved into a vertical portion of the L-shaped slot and the pin I42 tends to raise a spring I48 secured to the tail of the latching hook I30 and swing the latching hook against the pin I34 on the cam lever 96. Thereafter, as the cam 92 rotates, the cutter lever moves with the cam lever to causethe cutter to sever the thread. To cause the cutter;

to be'withdrawn fromthe workin case the'arm 96 of the cutter lever is'disconnected fromthe threaded through a side wall of the machine frame. 7

,To actuate .the locking plate I36, one :en d of the control shaft I3 8 on which the locking plate s o nied xten t u h a su a e n i I58 in the side wall of :the machine frame and? camleverat any position other than with the has at its outer end a bevel gear I69 meshing with a corresponding gear I62 fixed to one end of a shaft I64 disposed at right angles to control shaft I38 and rotatable within a bracket I66 secured to the machine frame. The other end of the shaft I64 has clamped to it an arm I68 pivotally connected to the upper end of a link I10, the lower end of which has mounted on it a block I12, best shown in Figs. 9 to 13, inclusive. A pair of pins I14 project from the sides of the block I12 and the ends of the pins extend into L-shaped slots I16 formed in side flange portions of a bifurcated arm I18 secured to the shaft 16 of the stopping mechanism. When the lever 14 of the stopping mechanism is rocked during the final sewing cycle of the machine to release the plate 12 from the latch on the clutch lever 32, the arm I18 is moved downwardly from position b of Fig. 10 to positionq, of Fig. 9, drawing with it the rod I10 and the arm I68. Downward movement of the arm I68 swings the locking plate I36 rearwardly, connecting the cam lever 96 with the cutter lever 98. .The driving clutch member I8 is not disengaged from the disk member I9 at this time, however, but the disk member continues to drive the sewing shaft until the cutter is actuated and the lock block 33 on the clutch controlling lever engaged with the block 34 on the swash ring lever. After the swash ring lever has been locked by the lock block 33, the shaft continuesto be rotated by the driver member I9 until the swash ring acts to withdraw the clutch member I8 from, the driver member. Thereafter, the machine is brought to rest at the proper stopping position.

Under certain circumstances, it is desirable to disable the cutter control connections and bring the machine to rest without severing the thread during the last sewing cycle. To prevent the thread cutter mechanism from being actuated, except when desired, the lower end of the connecting rod I10 is moved rearwardly of the machine to bring the pins I14 into the vertical parts of the L-shaped slots on the lever I18. When in this position (see Fig. 11), and the arm I18 is actuated downwardlyfrom position b to position a, as indicated in Fig. 12, no motion will be imparted to the link 110 and the thread cutter will not be connected to its actuating mechamsm.

To move the link I10. rearwardly, there is clamped to the link near the block I12 a collar I80 having a perforated lug to receive the right angle bent end of a link I82, the other end of which is similarly bent and supported in an arm I84 pivotally mounted on a fixedvertical pin I86.

I Also pivoted on the pin I86 and extending above and below the hub of the arm I84 is anarm I88 connected by means of a link I90witha manual edge gage adjusting lever I92, shownin Fig. 6, corresponding to the lever 485 of. the patent to Gouldbourn No. 2,056,670. To render the thread cutter inoperative at the end of a scam, the edge gage adjusting lever is moved forwardly. Forward movement of the. edge gage adjusting lever I92 imparts movement to the arm I84 through frictional engagement of arm I88 with the arm I84 produced by a compression spring I94 (Fig. 9) received within a recess in the hub of the arm H34, the link I62 moving the pins I14 into the vertical portions of the slots I16. The frictional engagement between the arms I84 and I89 permits unlimited movement of the edge ga e lever without affecting proper actuation of th Q itter or control connections. Rearward movement of the edge gage lever causes a reverse movement of the arm I84 and link I10, disconnecting the control connections. Thus, the stop motion actuated arm I18 may move downwardly at the end of a seam without causing actuation of the thread cutter.

To prevent more than a single operation of the thread cutter at the end of a seam, the control shaft I38 has secured to it .a block I96 on which is pivotally mounted a latch I98 (see Fig. 24) having a hook portion cooperating with a pin 200 projecting from the side of the locking plate I36. A lug on the latch I98 is acted upon by a yielding plug 21' slidably contained in a passage within the block I96. When the hook portion of the latch I98 engages the pin, as in Figs. 21 and 22, the locking plate I36 moves with the control shaft I38. When the latch I98 is disengaged from the pin 200, as in Fig. 20, the locking plate is free to move under the force of the plunger I44, which plunger normally presses the locking plate into a position where the cutter lever 98 is disconnected from the cam lever 96. To disengage the latch I98 from the pin 200, the latch has an upstanding arm provided with a pin 202 extending into the path of a bevel ended spring-pressed plunger 204 slidably mounted in a lug on the arm 96 of the cutter lever. When the cutter lever is actuated downwardly to move the cutter towards the work, the plunger 204 is forced by engagement of its bevel end 205 against the pin 202 within the lug on the arm 98, but during upward movement, after the thread has been severed, the upper surface of the plunger actuates the latch to disengage the pin 200 in the locking plate, the axis of the plunger being suitably located with relation to the shaft I00 to insure these results. Thus, the locking plate is free to disconnect the cutter and cam levers and to lock the cutter lever in inoperative position, as indicated in Fig. 20.

When the machine is restarted, the arm I18 is moved upwardly by the stopping mechanism and the latch I98 is reengagedwith the pin 200 on the locking plate.

As has been stated, the cutter is movable towards and from the work through an upwardly and rearwardl inclined arcuate path bending around the presser foot, the center of which path is substantially concentric to the fulcrum of the presser foot, so that the cutter does not interfere either visually or mechanically with the proper presentation of the shoe to the machine by the operator. To direct movements of 1 the cutter, the carrier 86 has an archaic slide portion received within an arcuate guideway 206 disposed concentrically with the fulcrum stud 208 of the presser foot 9 and the shaft 84 is inclined at an angle to the surface of the work extending away from the work and rearwardly of the machine. When the cutter is raisedinto inoperative position, the knifeedged member is drawn close to .a position beneath thefend of the guideway 296, as illustrated in Fig; 17, the overhanging. portion of the guide-way guarding the knife fromaccidental contact with the shoe or with the hands of the operator presenting the shoe to themachine.

The cutter isalways raised to the same fixed position (Fig. 14 and is lowered int cuttin engagement with the work to a position (Fig. 15) determined by theposition of-the presser foot while clamping the work-f .To locate the-position of the cutter while severingthethreads,- thecarrier 86 is-lockedto theslide bar I26 by-means of presser foot 9 (see Fig. 14).

a displaceable element in the form of a swinging dog 2H1 (see Fig. 5), engaging a notch 2 in the slide bar I26. The swinging dog 2l0 is rotatably mounted on the cutter shaft 84 and is formed with two beveled edges, one 201 of which is substantially straight and fits within the notch 2 of the slide bar and the other 209 of which is curved and shaped to fit within a recess H3 in a cutter locating plate 2I2 secured to the When the carrier reaches a suitable position, the edge 209 of the dog 2H) engages a shoulder 2l4 formed at the recess in the presser foot, the carrier is thereby held locked to the presser foot since the do has moved out of alignment with the notch in the slide bar. The slide bar then continues its movement idly-while the carrier remains stationary until the thread severing stroke of the cutter is completed. Upon the reverse movement of the slide bar, the bar moves idly until an upwardly projecting lug 2H5 on the bar engages a ribwithin the carrier to raise the carrier and force the -dog 2li1 out of the recess in plate H2 and into the notch 2| I in the slide bar (see Fig. 26), thus restoring the parts to their original starting positions. The locations of the lug 216 and rib on the carrier are such as to cause this manner of operation, the notch being aligned with the dog when the lug and rib engage each other.

As in the machine of the Gouldbourn et-al.

patent, the work is fed while clamped between the work support and presser foot so that the curved bevel edge of the dog 2llJ which engages the locating plate 212 on the presser foot assumes a position when the carrier is locked to the presser foot, which is substantially parallel with the line of feed. Thus, thework feeding movements of the presser foot do not disturb the position of the dog 2H! or" the carrier 86. In order to prevent-frictional engagement of'the-dog with the locatingplate 2l2 during sewing} the outer end of th'e'dogis slotted to receive a fixed finger 2 [8 when the carrier is raised into its uppermost position, as indicated in Fig. 1'7. 'When the carrier moves the dog upwardly, and the finger 218 enters the slotof the dog 2"], the dog is raised slightly by an inclined upper surface on the finger from the locating plate 2l2, as indicated in Fig. 26. r

' As in the machine of inventors prior patents, the present thread cutter acts wh le the projecting margin of the outsole on a shoe remains clamped between the work support and the presser foot and in'orderto maintain the clamping relationship until after the cutter has been actuated, the portion of greater radius on thecam 5810f the present stop mechanismis shortened substantially from that disclosed in the patent'to Gouldbourn et al. With 'a shortened active portion on the cam 58, the presser foot raising rock shaft 64 is not actuated until the last extreme movement of the sewing shafts and the work remains clamped until the thread severing stroke of the thread cutter is completed.

In order to provide a suflicient length of thread for starting a new seam, there is mountedon the thread cutter arm a thread measuring finger 220 adjustably secured to the arm by a set screw 222 passing through aslot in the arm and into threaded engagement withthe measuring finger. The measuring finger is in the form of an offset plate, one end of which surrounds the cutter shaft 84 and the other end of which is bent rearwardly and notched to receive the locking thread when the cutter is actuated towards the work, as illustrated in Fig. 4. The thread measuring finger passes just below the shuttle and bends aside the shuttle thread so as to provide an extra length before the thread is severed by the cutter.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and a machine embodying the several features of the invention having been specifically described, What is claimed is:

l. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a, work support, a presser foot, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the presser foot to clamp and release'the work and the stitch forming devices to form a seam, driving mechanism including a main driver for the sewing shafts, a stopping mechanism to disconnect the main driver from the sewing shafts and to bring the sewing shafts to rest at the end of the seam with the stitch forming devices and the presser foot disengaged from the work, and a thread cutter controlled by the stopping mechanism and actuated by the sewing shafts at the end of the seam towards and from cutting relationship with the thread before the main driver is disconnected from the sewing shafts.

2. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a worksupport, a presser foot, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the presser foot to clamp and release the work and the stitch forming devices to form a sea-m, driving'mechani'sm including a; main'driver for the sewing shafts, a stepping mechanism to disconnect the main driver from the sewing shafts and to bring the sewing shafts to rest at the end of the seam, a thread cutter, a cam driven by one of the sewing shafts for actuating the thread cutter towards and from cutting relationship with the thread, and means controlled by the stopping mechanism for rendering the cam ineffective to actuate the cutter during sewing and for causing: the cam to actuate the cutter toward and from the thread at the end of'the seam before the main driver is disconnected from the sewing shafts.

3. A shoe sewing machine having,'in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser foot, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the presser'foot to clamp and release the work and the stitch forming devices to form a seam, driving mechanism including a main driver for the sewing shafts, a stopping mechanism to disconnect the main driver from the sewing shafts and to bring the sewing shafts to rest at the end of the seam, a thread cutter, a cam driven by one of the sewing shafts, a lever connected to actuate the thread cutter, and means controlled by the. stopping mechanism for connecting the cam lever with the cutter lever at the end 'of a seam while the driving mechanism continues to drive the sewing shafts.

4. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser foot, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the presser foot to clamp and release the work and the stitch forming devices to form a seam, driving mechanism including a main driver for the sewing shafts, a stopping mechanism to disconnect the main driver from the sewing shafts and to bring the sewing shafts to rest at the end of the seam, a thread cutter, a cam driven by one of the sewing shafts, a lever connected to actuate the thread cutter, and means controlled by the stopping mechanism for connecting the cam lever with the cutter lever at the end of a seam, said cam being shaped to operate the cutter towards and from cutting relationship with the thread when the cam lever is connected to the cutter lever and while the driving mechanism continues to drive the sewing shafts.

5. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser foot, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the presser foot to clamp and release the work and the stitch forming devices to form a seam, driving mechanism including a main driver for the sewing shafts, a mechanism to disconnect the main driver from the sewing shafts and to bring the;

sewing shafts to rest at the end of the seam, a thread cutter, a cam driven by one of the sewing shafts, a lever operated by the cam continuously during sewing, a lever connected to actuate the thread cutter, means controlled by the stopping mechanism for connecting the cam lever with the cutter lever at the end of a seam while the driving mechanism continues to drive the sewing shafts, and means for disconnecting the cam lever and the cutterlever after a single operation of the cutter.

6. A shoe sewing machine having, in combine.- tion, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser foot, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the presser foot to clamp and release the work and the stitch forming devices to form a seam, driving mechanism including a main driver for the sewing shafts, a stopping mechanism to disconnect the main driver from the sewing shafts and to bring the sewing shafts to rest at the end of the seam, a thread cutter, a cam driven by one of the sewing shafts, a lever operated by the cam continuously during sewing, a lever connected to actuate the thread cutter, means controlled by the stopping mechanism for connecting the cam lever withthe' cutter lever at the end of a seam, a latch controlled by the driving and stopping mechanism 1 during the final sewing cycle of the seam for connecting the cam lever with the cutter lever while the driving mechanism continues to drive the sewing shafts, and means for rendering the control of the latch by the driving and stopping mechanisms ineffective after a single actuation of the cutter.

, 7. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a p-resser foot, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the presser foot to clamp and release the work and the stitch forming devices to form a seam, driving mechanism including a main driver for the sewing shafts, a stopping mechanism to disconnect the main driver from the sewing shafts and to bring the sewing shafts to rest at the end of the seam, a

thread cutter, a cam driven by one of the sewing shafts, a lever operated by the cam continuously during sewing, a lever connected to actuate the thread cutter, a latch for connecting the cam and cutter levers, control connections be- "tween the latch and the stopping mechanisms for" causing the latch to connect the cam and cutter levers in the final sewing cycle of the seam while the driving mechanism continues to rotate the sewing shafts, and manually operated means for disabling the control connections during sewing at the will of the operator.

8. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the stitch forming devices to form a seam, driving means for the sewing shafts having high and low speed driving mechanisms, stopping mechanisms for causing the shafts first to be driven by the low'speed driving mechanism and then to be brought to rest with the stitch forming devices free of the work, a thread cutter, a rod shifted whenever the drive of the sewing shafts is changed from the high to the low speed driving mechanisms, and means operated by the shift of the rod to cause the thread cutter to be actuated at the end of a seam before the sewing shafts are disconnected from the low speed driving mechanism.

9. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the stitch forming devices to form aseam, a work support, a presser foot, driving means for the sewing shafts having high and low speed driving mechanisms, stopping mechanisms for causing the shafts first to be driven by the low speed driving mechanism and then to be brought to rest with the stitch forming devices free of the work, a thread cutter, a rod shifted whenever the drive of the sewing shafts is changed from the high to the low speed driving mechanisms, a cam on one of the sewing shafts, a follower normally out of the path of the cam during sewing, connections between the follower and the rod to shift the follower into the path of the cam for raising the presser foot from the work at the end of the seamyand connections between the follower and the thread cutter for causing the cutter to be actutaed during the final sewing cycle of a seam before the presser foot raised from the work.

10. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, one or more simultaneously rotating sewing shafts for actuating the stitch forming devices to form a seam, a main driver for the sewing shafts, means for disconnecting the driver from the sewing shafts at the endof the seam with the stitch forming devices free of the work, a thread cutter comprising a knife member arranged to act against the work as a cutting block to sever the thread at the end of a seam, and mechanism driven by the sewing shafts for actuating the knife member towards and from the thread before the main driver is disconnected from the sewing shafts.

11. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, driving and stopping mechanisms acting to bring the machine to rest at the end of a seam with the stitch forming devices disengaged from the work, a thread cutter, disconnectible actuating connections for the thread cutter, disconnectible control connections for connecting or disconnecting the actuating connections, and means actuated with the thread cutter for disconnecting the control connections to cause the actuating connections to he disconnected after a single operation of the thread 8 mechanisms acting to bring the machine to rest at the end of a seam with the stitch forming devices disengaged from the work, a thread cutter, disconnectible actuating connections for the thread cutter, including a yieldingly actuated plate for disconnecting said connections, disconnectible control connections for actuating said plate, means actuated with the thread cutter for causing the plate to be disconnected from the control connections aftera single thread severing stroke of the cutter and to be shifted into a position where the cutter actuated connections are disconnected.

13. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, a fulcrum for the presser foot at the rear of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, and means for guiding the movements of the carrier towards and from operative position along a path inclined to the surface of the work rearwardly of the machine while moving away from the work.

14. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch .forming devices, a fulcrum for the presser foot at the rear of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, and means for guiding the movements of the carrier towards and from operative position along a curved path inclined to the surface of the work rearwardly of the machine while moving away from the work, the curvature of the path bending around the presser foot.

15. A shoe shewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, a fulcrum for the presser foot at the rear of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, and means for guiding the movements of the carrier towards and from operative position along an arcuate path, the center of which substantially coincides with the fulcrum of the presser foot.

16. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, a fulcrum for the presser foot at the rear of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, and an arcuate guideway for the carrier, the center of curvature of which guideway is concentric with the fulcrum of the presser foot.

17. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch towards the thread along a path inclined towards the work and rearwardly of the machine.

18. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, a fulcrum for the presser foot at the rear of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, an arcuate guideway for the carrier, the center of curvature of which guideway is concentric with the fulcrum of the presser foot, and mechanism for actuating the carrier towards and from the work and the cutter against the thread when the carrier is closest to the work.

19. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, a fulcrum for the presser foot at the rear of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, a curved guideway for the carrier inclined to the surface of the work rearwardly of the machine away from the work, and mechanism for actuating the carrier in the guideway towards and from the work and the cutter in the carrier against the thread when the carrier is closest to the work. i

20. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, a fulcrum for the presser foot at the rear of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, a curved guideway for the carrier inclined to the surface of the work rearwardly of the machine away from the work, mechanism for actuating the carrier in the guideway towards and from the work, and connections between said mechanism and the cutter including a universal joint for actuating the cutter against the thread.

21. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, a thread cutter comprising a knife edged member arranged to act on the thread between the work support and presser foot, a movable carrier for supporting the cutter, means for directing the movements of the carrier towards and from operative position in front of the seam line along a path inclined to the surface of the work away from the work and rearwardly of the machine, mechanism including a disconnectible connection for actuating the carrier in the guideway towards and from the work, and means controlled by the position of the presser foot on the work including displaceable and sliding elements for locking the presser foot to the carrier at a position determined by the thickness of the work, and means for holding the displaceable element away from the presser foot until the carrier has moved towards the work to free the presser foot from movement restricting force during sewing operations.

22. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, a fulcrum for the presser foot at the rear of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, an arcuate guideway for the carrier, the center of curvature of which guideway is concentric with the fulcrum of the presser foot, and mechanism for actuating the carrier in the guideway including a disconnectible connection between the carrier and its actuating mechanism, means for controlling the position to which the carrier is actuated including displaceable and sliding elements for locking the presser foot to the carrier at a position determined by the thickness of the work, and means for holding the displaceable element out of engagement with the presser foot to free the presser foot from movement restricting force during sewing operations.

23. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, a fulcrum for the presser foot at the rear of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, an arcuate guideway for the carrier, the center of curvature of which guideway is concentric with the fulcrum of the presser foot, mechanism for actuating the carrier in the guideway including a disconnectible connection, a notched element on the presser foot, a displaceable element connected to the carrier arranged to slide along the notched element for controlling the position in which the carrier is disconnected from its actuating mechanism and for locking the carrier to the presser foot at a position determined by the thickness of the work, and means for holding the displaceable element out of sliding engagement with the notched element to free the presser foot from movement restricting force when the carrier is disconnected.

24. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, and a thread cutter acting on that portion of thread within the material of the work between the work support and the presser foot and comprising a knife edged member, an arm to which the knife member is secured, and a rock shaft inclined at an angle of substantially less than to the surface of the work and away from the work rearwardly of the machine to support the knife member for rotary movement through a path intersecting the surface of the work towards and from the thread while the work remains clamped between the work support and presser foot.

25. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser foot at the front of the machine for clamping between them that portion of the work operated upon while being presented to the stitch forming devices, and a thread cutter acting on that portion of thread within the material of the work between the Work support and the presser foot and comprising a knife edged member, an arm to which the knife member is secured, and a rock shaft at one side of the work inclined at an angle of substantially less than 90 to the surface of the work and away from the work rearwardly of the machine to support the knife member for movement through a path intersecting the surface of the work and having components in the direction of the seam line and from one side of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices towards the point of operation when the shaft is rotated.

26. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot actuated to clamp and feed the work, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, and mechanism for actuating the carrier towards and from the work and for looking the carrier to the presser foot when moved towards the work comprising a dog on the carrier and a plate on the presser foot formed. with looking surfaces extending in the direction of work feed.

27. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support and a presser foot actuated to clamp and feed the work, a cutter for severing the thread at the end of a seam, a movable carrier for supporting the thread cutter, and mechanism for actuating the carrier towards and from the work and for looking the carrier to the presser foot when moved towards the work comprising a swinging dog on the carrier, and a recessed plate on the presser foot arranged in a position to receive the dog when the dog is swung into a position with its recess engaging edge extending in the direction of work feed.

28. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, one or more simultaneously rotating shafts for actuating the stitch forming devices through each complete sewing cycle during a single rotation of one of the shafts to form a seam, a main driver for the sewing shafts, means for disconnecting the main driver from the sewing shafts at the end of the seam, a thread cutter, disconnectible connections between the thread cutter and that sewing shaft only which rotates a single rotation during each stitch, and means actuated before the main driver is disconnected from the sewing shafts at the end of the seam to connect the thread cutter with the sewing shaft which rotates a single rotation during each stitch.

O'I'I'O R. HAAS.

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