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US20150297497A1 - Photocrosslinkable nail makeup composition - Google Patents

Photocrosslinkable nail makeup composition Download PDF

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Publication number
US20150297497A1
US20150297497A1 US14/443,699 US201314443699A US2015297497A1 US 20150297497 A1 US20150297497 A1 US 20150297497A1 US 201314443699 A US201314443699 A US 201314443699A US 2015297497 A1 US2015297497 A1 US 2015297497A1
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
composition
composition according
photocrosslinkable
equal
nail
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Abandoned
Application number
US14/443,699
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English (en)
Inventor
Guillaume Kergosien
Carl Riachi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to US14/443,699 priority Critical patent/US20150297497A1/en
Publication of US20150297497A1 publication Critical patent/US20150297497A1/en
Assigned to L'OREAL reassignment L'OREAL ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: KERGOSIEN, GUILLAUME, RIACHI, CARL
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D29/00Manicuring or pedicuring implements
    • A45D29/18Manicure or pedicure sets, e.g. combinations without case, etui, or the like
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/45Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87Polyurethanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/02Nail coatings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262Transparent; Translucent
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/81Preparation or application process involves irradiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884Sequential application
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/95Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a photocrosslinkable cosmetic composition, particularly for nail and/or false nail makeup and/or care.
  • the present invention relates to a photocrosslinkable cosmetic finishing composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a nail and/or false nail makeup and/or care method using said composition.
  • Nail varnish compositions may be used as a base for the varnish (or base-coat), as a nail makeup product, or as a finishing composition (or top-coat) to be applied on the nail makeup product, or as a cosmetic nail care product. These compositions may be applied onto natural nails as well as onto false nails.
  • liquid cosmetic compositions which, after application on the nail and under the effect of light radiation, undergo in situ polymerization and/or crosslinking reactions, resulting in generally crosslinked polymeric networks.
  • photopolymerizable and/or photocrosslinkable compositions are described for example in CA 1 306 954, U.S. Pat. No. 5,456,905, U.S. Pat. No. 7,375,144 and FR 2 823 105.
  • a drawback of these compositions lies in the difficulty removing same during makeup removal.
  • the aim of the present invention is also to provide a novel photocrosslinkable composition which is easy to use and remove.
  • the aim of the present invention is also to provide a novel photocrosslinkable compositions exhibiting an enhanced stability over time, in terms of chipping resistance and gloss.
  • the aim of the present invention is also to provide a photocrosslinkable composition suitable for solving the toxicity problem in respect of the photocrosslinkable cosmetic compositions according to the prior art.
  • Another aim of the invention is to obtain photocrosslinkable compositions suitable for providing coats having the following properties: stability over time (with a mild etching or without any etching of the nail or false nail before applying the composition), easy makeup removal, high cosmeticity, outstanding makeup result (homogeneous deposition, easy to apply, comfortable to wear) and/or high gloss.
  • the present invention relates to a photocrosslinkable cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:
  • compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium refers to a medium that is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention onto keratin matter.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally suitable for the nature of the support to which the composition should be applied, and also for the way in which the composition is to be packaged.
  • photocrosslinkable compound refers to an organic compound suitable for crosslinking under the action of a light ray, resulting in a crosslinked polymer network.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one photocrosslinkable compound, referred to as P1, which is a urethane(meth)acrylate compound and comprises a polyether chain.
  • (meth)acrylate monomer refers to a compound comprising a single (meth)acrylate function according to the formula H 2 C ⁇ C(R)—C(O)—O—, where R ⁇ H or CH 3 .
  • the photocrosslinkable composition according to the invention comprises a reduced proportion of (meth)acrylate monomers, i.e. less than 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, this proportion is less than or equal to 5%, preferentially less than or equal to 1% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention is completely free from (meth)acrylate monomer.
  • urethane(meth)acrylate compound refers to any compound comprising at least one urethane function —O—C(O)—NH—, and at least one (meth)acrylate function according to the formula H 2 C ⁇ C(R)—C(O)—O—, where R ⁇ H or CH 3 .
  • the “urethane” function is also referred to as a “carbamate” function.
  • the photocrosslinkable compound P1 is chosen from the group consisting of urethane poly(meth)acrylate compounds, advantageously in the group consisting of urethane di(meth)acrylate compounds, preferably in the group consisting of urethane dimethacrylate compounds.
  • poly(meth)acrylate compound refers to a (meth)acrylate compound comprising a plurality of (meth)acrylate functions.
  • poly(meth)acrylate compound may refer to a compound comprising at least two methacrylate functions, or at least two acrylate functions, or at least one methacrylate function and at least one acrylate function.
  • P1 is a urethane methacrylate compound.
  • the mean number of (meth)acrylate functions borne by the photocrosslinkable compounds P1 intended to form, after crosslinking, a crosslinked polymeric network is greater than 1.
  • a polymerizable system consisting of molecules each bearing a single (meth)acrylate function forms, after reacting all of said functions, a linear or branched, and not crosslinked, chain macromolecular system. Only the presence of a certain fraction of molecules bearing at least two (meth)acrylate functions and thus acting as a crosslinking agent is suitable for obtaining a crosslinked polymeric system.
  • the mean number of (meth)acrylate functions per molecule of compound P1 is preferably greater than or equal to 2, advantageously ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.
  • P1 is a urethane dimethacrylate compound.
  • urethane dimethacrylate compound refers to any compound comprising at least one urethane function —O—C(O)—NH—, and two methacrylate functions according to the formula H 2 C ⁇ C(CH 3 )—C(O)—O—.
  • polyether chain refers to a C 1 -C 100 divalent hydrocarbon radical, interspersed with at least two oxygen atoms.
  • the polyether chain of the compound P1 has a molar mass less than or equal to 1000 g/mol.
  • the polyether chain generally comprises less than 50 carbon atoms, preferably less than 45 carbon atoms.
  • the polyether chain of the photocrosslinkable compound P2 is of formula —[C n H 2n O] m —, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably equal to 2 or 3, and m is an integer ranging from 2 to 50.
  • the polyether chain of the photocrosslinkable compound P1 is of formula —[PhO] m —, wherein Ph refers to a phenylene divalent radical, optionally substituted with one or a plurality of C 1 -C 6 alkyls and/or halogen atoms, and m is an integer ranging from 2 to 50.
  • It may thus consist for example of a polyphenylether chain according to the formula —[C 6 H 4 O] m — or a poly(p-dimethylphenyl)ether chain according to the formula —[(C 6 H 2 )(CH 3 ) 2 O] m —.
  • the compound P1 is of formula (I):
  • the heteroatoms include oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms.
  • the “alkyl” groups represent straight or branched chain saturated hydrocarbon radicals, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may particularly be made, when they are linear, of methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, nonyl and decyl radicals. Mention may particularly be made, when they are branched or substituted with one or a plurality of alkyl radicals, of isopropyl, tert-butyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-methylbutyl, 2-methylpentyl, 1-methylpentyl and 3-methylheptyl radicals.
  • cycloalkene radical is a non-aromatic saturated or partially unsaturated mono-, bi- or tri-cyclic divalent hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, such as in particular cyclopropylene, cyclopentylene, cyclohexylene or adamantylene, optionally substituted with alkyl groups, and the corresponding rings containing one or a plurality of unsaturations.
  • cycloalkylene also covers “heterocycloalkylene” radicals denoting non-aromatic saturated or partially unsaturated mono- or bicyclic divalent radicals, of 3 to 8 carbon atoms, comprising one or a plurality of heteroatoms chosen from N, O or S.
  • arylene refers to a mono or bicyclic aromatic divalent hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 6 to 30, preferably from 6 to 10, carbon atoms.
  • arylene radicals mention may particularly be made of the phenylene or naphthylene radical, more particularly substituted with at least one halogen atom.
  • heteroarylene radical refers to an aromatic divalent radical comprising one or a plurality of heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur, comprising from 5 to 30, and preferably from 5 to 10, carbon atoms.
  • heteroarylene radicals mention may be made of pyrazinylene, thienylene, oxazolylene, furazanylene, pyrrolylene, 1,2,4-thiadiazolylene, naphthyridinylene, pyridazinylene, quinoxalinylene, phtalazinylene, imidazo[1,2-a]pyridinene, imidazo[2,1-b]thiazolylene, cinnolinylene, triazinylene, benzofurazanylene, azaindolylene, benzimidazolylene, benzothienylene, thienopyridylene, thienopyrimidinylene, pyrrolopyridylene, imidazopyridylene, benzoazaindolene, 1,2,4-triazinylene, benzothiazolylene, furanylene, imidazolylene, indolylene, triazolylene, tetrazolylene, in
  • the compound P1 is of formula (II):
  • -A′′- represents a radical according to the formula:
  • a photocrosslinkable compound suitable for the implementation of the invention is for example PEG 400 Extended Urethane Dimethacrylate (X-726-0000—ESSTECH, Inc.).
  • P1 is preferably present at a total content greater than or equal to 1% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the photocrosslinkable composition, advantageously ranging from 1 to 20%, preferably from 2 to 15%, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the photocrosslinkable composition.
  • composition according to the invention optionally comprises a mixture of different compounds P1.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer P2, different to the photocrosslinkable compound P1.
  • the film-forming polymer P2 is a non-photocrosslinkable compound.
  • non-photocrosslinkable compound refers to a compound inert to light exposure, i.e. that does not polymerize and/or is not crosslinked, unlike the photocrosslinkable compound P1.
  • the film-forming polymer P2 is generally free from double ethylene bonds, such as acrylate and methacrylate groups.
  • film-forming polymer refers to, according to the invention, a polymer suitable for forming alone (i.e. in the absence of an auxiliary film-forming agent or an external stimulus for example such as UV), a film suitable for being isolated, particularly a continuous adherent film, on a substrate, particularly on nails.
  • a single film-forming polymer or a mixture of film-forming polymers may be used.
  • This film-forming polymer may be chosen from the group consisting of radical or polycondensate type synthetic polymers, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • a film-forming polymer suitable for the invention may be chosen from polysaccharide derivatives, such as cellulose or guar gum derivatives.
  • polysaccharide derivatives such as cellulose or guar gum derivatives.
  • One preferential polysaccharide derivative suitable for the invention may be nitrocellulose or a polysaccharide ester or alkylether.
  • polysaccharide ester or alkylether refers to a polysaccharide consisting of repeat units comprising at least two identical or different rings and having a degree of substitution per saccharide unit between 1.9 and 3, preferably between 2.2 and 2.9, and more particularly between 2.4 and 2.8.
  • substitution refers to the functionalization of hydroxyl groups into ester and/or alkylether functions, and/or the functionalization of carboxyl groups into ester functions.
  • it may consist of a polysaccharide, partially or totally substituted with ester and/or alkylether groups.
  • the hydroxyl groups may be substituted with C 2 -C 4 ester and/or alkylether functions.
  • cellulose esters such as cellulose acetobutyrates or cellulose acetopropionates
  • cellulose alkylethers such as ethylcelluloses
  • ethylguars Particular mention may be made of cellulose esters (such as cellulose acetobutyrates or cellulose acetopropionates), cellulose alkylethers (such as ethylcelluloses), and ethylguars.
  • a film-forming polymer suitable for the invention may be chosen from synthetic polymers such as polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, vinyl polymers, polyvinylbutyrals, alkyd resins and ketone/aldehyde resins, resins from aldehyde condensation products, such as aryl sulfonamide formaldehyde resins such as toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resin, aryl-sulfonamide epoxy resins or ethyl tosylamide resins.
  • synthetic polymers such as polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, vinyl polymers, polyvinylbutyrals, alkyd resins and ketone/aldehyde resins, resins from aldehyde condensation products, such as aryl sulfonamide formaldehyde resins such as toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resin, aryl-sulfonamide epoxy resins or ethyl tosyl
  • it may consist of (meth)acrylate homopolymers and copolymers.
  • a film-forming polymer suitable for the invention may also be chosen from polymers of natural origin, such as plant resins such as dammars, elemi, copals, benzoin; gums such as shellac, sandarac and mastic.
  • the film-forming polymer P2 is chosen from the group consisting of polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives, preferably from nitrocellulose and polysaccharide ethers and esters, particularly C 2 -C 4 , and more preferentially from cellulose acetobutyrates, cellulose acetopropionates, ethylcelluloses, ethylguars, and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming polymer P2 is chosen from the group consisting of nitrocellulose, cellulose acetopropionate, cellulose acetobutyrate, and (meth)acrylate homopolymers and copolymers.
  • the film-forming polymer P2 is nitrocellulose.
  • P2 is preferably present at a total content greater than or equal to 1% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the photocrosslinkable composition, advantageously ranging from 1 to 30%, preferably from 10 to 30%, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight in relation to the total weight of the photocrosslinkable composition.
  • composition according to the invention optionally comprises a mixture of different polymers P2.
  • the composition according to the invention has a weight ratio between P1 and P2 less than or equal to 1.5, preferably less than or equal to 1.0, preferentially ranging from 0.1 to 1.0, and advantageously from 0.2 to 0.5.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one photoinitiator.
  • the photoinitiators suitable for use according to the present invention are known in the art and are described, for example in “Les photoinitiateurs dans la réticulation des reitess”, G. Li Bassi, Double Liaison—Chimie des Peintures, No. 361, November 1985, p. 34-41; “Applications Juniors de la polymerisation photoinduite”, Henri Strub, L'Actualéclairage Chimique, February 2000, p. 5-13; and “Photopolym insomnia: reconcilationssmetri et Meeting de prise”, Marc, J. M. Abadie, Double Liaison—Chimie des Peintures, No. 435-436, 1992, p. 28-34.
  • photoinitiators include:
  • the photoinitiator of the composition according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of ⁇ -hydroxyketones, ⁇ -aminoketones, aromatic ketones preferably associated with a hydrogen donor compound, aromatic ⁇ -diketones, acylphosphine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • a mixture of photoinitiators absorbing light radiation at various wavelengths is preferably used in the photocrosslinkable composition according to the invention.
  • the absorption spectrum of the photocrosslinkable composition can thus be adapted to the emission spectrum of the light sources used.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of two different photoinitiators, such as for example a mixture of an ⁇ -hydroxyketone and an acylphosphine oxide.
  • photoinitiator mixture mention may be made of a mixture of IRGACURE® 184 (BASF) and LUCIRIN® TPO-L (BASF).
  • a particular group of photoinitiators suitable for use in the photocrosslinkable cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is that of copolymerizable photoinitiators. It consists of molecules comprising both a photoinitiator group capable of photoinduced radical splitting and at least one double ethylene bond.
  • the photoinitiators in this group offer the advantage, in relation to the conventional photoinitiators listed above, of being suitable for being incorporated, via the double bond, into the macromolecular system. This possibility reduces the content of free residual photoinitiators not having undergone photoinduced radical splitting and thus enhances the safety of the layer C1.
  • polymer photoinitiators or photoinitiators bound onto a high molar mass molecule are used.
  • the choice of such a high mass photoinitiator offers the same advantage as selecting only polymeric copolymerizable compounds, i.e. enhanced safety of the photocrosslinkable cosmetic compositions due to the absence of very reactive molecules liable to diffuse to neighboring biological substrates.
  • the mean molar mass by weight of the photoinitiator is preferably at least equal to 500 g/mol.
  • the polymer on which the photoinitiator group is bound may optionally comprise one or a plurality of double ethylene bonds for optionally incorporating, into the macromolecular network, photoinitiator molecules not having undergone photoinduced splitting.
  • the photoinitiator content is dependent on a large number of factors such as the reactivity of the various constituents of the mixture, the presence of pigments or dyes, the crosslinking density sought, the intensity of the light source or the exposure time.
  • the photoinitiator(s) is (or are) preferably present in a total content greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the photocrosslinkable composition, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the photocrosslinkable composition.
  • the photoinitiator(s) is (or are) present in a total content greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the photocrosslinkable compound(s), preferably from 1% to 15% by weight in relation to the total weight of the photocrosslinkable compound(s) P1.
  • composition according to the present invention generally comprises at least one solvent chosen from physiologically acceptable organic and inorganic solvents.
  • the suitable solvents may particularly be chosen from:
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises so-called volatile solvents.
  • volatile solvent refers to a solvent capable of evaporating on contact with keratin matter, in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile solvent(s) according to the invention are liquid solvents at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure different to zero, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (from 10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mm Hg), particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (from 0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (from 0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
  • a “non-volatile solvent” evaporates on contact with keratin matter in more than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the total solvent content in the composition may range from 5% to 95% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the volatile solvent content in the composition ranges from 30% to 90%, preferably from 50% to 80% in relation to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition comprises a solvent chosen from liquid alcohols at ambient temperature, such as ethanol and isopropanol, and short-chain esters comprising in total from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • a solvent chosen from liquid alcohols at ambient temperature, such as ethanol and isopropanol, and short-chain esters comprising in total from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent of the composition according to the invention is ethyl acetate.
  • composition according to the invention may further comprise adjuvants, or additives, particularly chosen from pigments and dyes, plasticizers, coalescing agents, preservatives, waxes, thickeners, perfumes, UV filters, cosmetic active substances for nail care, spreading agents, anti-foaming agents and dispersing agents.
  • adjuvants or additives, particularly chosen from pigments and dyes, plasticizers, coalescing agents, preservatives, waxes, thickeners, perfumes, UV filters, cosmetic active substances for nail care, spreading agents, anti-foaming agents and dispersing agents.
  • the coloring agent(s) is (or are) present in a total content greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the layer, ranging preferably from 0.1 to 5%, advantageously from 0.2 to 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the layer.
  • the composition comprises pigments and/or dyes
  • the composition according to the invention is transparent.
  • the term transparent denotes that the composition has a HAZEBYK index of less than 5 as measured with a KYKHAZEGLOSS type gloss meter.
  • composition according to the invention comprises, or consists of:
  • composition according to the invention is typically intended to be used as a finishing composition.
  • composition according to the invention is typically intended to be applied onto a nail, or false nail, previously coated with one or a plurality of layers of conventional, optionally colored, nail varnish, or an adhesive flexible material.
  • the present invention relates to a makeup and/or care method of a nail and/or false nail, comprising the following steps.
  • the radiation suitable for the crosslinking of the photocrosslinkable composition according to the present invention has a wavelength between 210 and 600 nm, preferably between 250 and 420 nm, preferably between 350 and 410 nm.
  • the use of lasers may also be envisaged.
  • a LED lamp or an UV lamp and particularly a mercury vapor lamp, optionally doped with further elements, such as gallium, suitable for modifying the emission spectrum of the light source is used.
  • the exposure time of the deposited coat to radiation is dependent on various factors such as the chemical nature and content of the reactive compounds or the crosslinking density sought.
  • Such a method may use a UV lamp having a power of approximately 36 W.
  • the thickness after drying the coat of photocrosslinkable composition deposited in step a) is less than or equal to 100 ⁇ m, preferably less than or equal to 50 ⁇ m.
  • the crosslinked coat obtained from the crosslinking in step b) exhibits a significant stability over time, in terms of chipping resistance and gloss, particularly over the course of at least one week. It thus proves to be resistant to water, friction and shocks, and does not exhibit significant wear or chipping in this interval.
  • This coat is also capable of being solubilized or increasing in volume and thus weight when placed in contact with a standard makeup removal solvent.
  • This ability to be solubilized or swell, displayed by the crosslinked coat, is specifically advantageous for the removal thereof when applied onto the surface of a nail or false nail. Indeed, the coat may be removed readily merely by means of makeup removal using a conventional solvent.
  • composition according to the invention is advantageously suitable for being removed using standard solvents used in the field of nail varnish, and particularly using acetone and ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention is easier to remove than existing photocrosslinkable top coats due to a higher proportion of polymer.
  • the present invention also relates to a makeup removal method of a nail and/or false nail, comprising the application of a makeup removal composition, such as a standard solvent described above, onto a nail or false nail coated with at least one layer obtained by crosslinking a layer of composition according to the invention, whereby said crosslinked layer is removed, optionally along with a layer of varnish situated between the nail or false nail and said crosslinked layer.
  • a makeup removal composition such as a standard solvent described above
  • the present invention also relates to a kit comprising:
  • the present invention also relates to a makeup and/or care method of a nail and/or false nail, comprising the following steps:
  • the rubbing step is performed for less than 10 seconds, preferably less than 5 seconds, for example for approximately 3 seconds.
  • the nail or false nail may be coated with a varnish composition or an adhesive flexible material, so that the photocrosslinkable composition according to the invention is deposited onto the coat of varnish or onto the adhesive flexible material.
  • a “Salon effects” adhesive flexible material from Sally Hansen is applied to the nail.
  • a photocrosslinkable composition according to the invention is then applied onto the nail coated with the adhesive flexible material. After drying for approximately 5 minutes, the nail covered and coated with the photocrosslinkable composition is then crosslinked for 60 seconds under an “OPI GelColor” lamp from OPI (wavelength: 404 nm).
  • PEG 400 Extended Urethane Dimethacrylate 7% Nitrocellulose with 30% isopropyl alcohol (viscosity: E22 - 1 ⁇ 2 s) 20% Ethyl acetate 70% Hydroxy Cyclohexylphenyl Ketone photoinitiator 2% (Irgacure 184 - BASF) Ethyl-2,4,6-Trimethylbenzoylphenylphosphinate photoinitiator 1% (Lucirin TPO-L - BASF)
  • the ingredients of the composition are introduced into an opaque flask and placed under stirring protected from light with a Rayneri laboratory mixer until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
  • An aluminum foil will have been previously positioned on the top of the container to prevent the solvents from evaporating.
  • the nail makeup or care material obtained can be removed with a solvent such as acetone.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Macromonomer-Based Addition Polymer (AREA)
US14/443,699 2012-12-05 2013-12-04 Photocrosslinkable nail makeup composition Abandoned US20150297497A1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US14/443,699 US20150297497A1 (en) 2012-12-05 2013-12-04 Photocrosslinkable nail makeup composition

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1261677 2012-12-05
FR1261677A FR2998790B1 (fr) 2012-12-05 2012-12-05 Composition photoreticulable pour le maquillage des ongles
US201361754055P 2013-01-18 2013-01-18
PCT/EP2013/075546 WO2014086869A1 (fr) 2012-12-05 2013-12-04 Composition de maquillage d'ongles photoréticulable
US14/443,699 US20150297497A1 (en) 2012-12-05 2013-12-04 Photocrosslinkable nail makeup composition

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US20150297497A1 true US20150297497A1 (en) 2015-10-22

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US (1) US20150297497A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2928446B1 (fr)
KR (1) KR20150090085A (fr)
BR (1) BR112015013024A2 (fr)
ES (1) ES2696149T3 (fr)
FR (1) FR2998790B1 (fr)
RU (1) RU2688926C2 (fr)
WO (1) WO2014086869A1 (fr)

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US20170172890A1 (en) * 2015-12-22 2017-06-22 L'oreal Photocurable nail compositions containing dispersion of acrylic polymer particles

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RU2015121377A (ru) 2017-01-10
ES2696149T3 (es) 2019-01-14
BR112015013024A2 (pt) 2017-07-11
EP2928446A1 (fr) 2015-10-14
RU2688926C2 (ru) 2019-05-23
KR20150090085A (ko) 2015-08-05
EP2928446B1 (fr) 2018-08-15
FR2998790B1 (fr) 2015-01-09
WO2014086869A1 (fr) 2014-06-12
FR2998790A1 (fr) 2014-06-06

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