US20140109285A1

US20140109285A1 - Performance Dress Shirt

Info

Publication number: US20140109285A1
Application number: US14/058,810
Authority: US
Inventors: Gihan S. Amarasiriwardena; Aman Advani; Claudia Richardson
Original assignee: Ministry of Supply
Current assignee: Ministry of Supply
Priority date: 2012-10-19
Filing date: 2013-10-21
Publication date: 2014-04-24

Abstract

The invention relates to a performance dress shirt and methods of manufacture. In embodiments, the performance dress shirt includes a front portion made of a first material, a back portion having outer sections made of a first material and an inner section made of a different second material coupled to the front portion and two sleeves made of the first material coupled substantially opposite each other to the front portion and the back portion. In other embodiments, the performance dress shirt has a front portion, a back portion coupled to the first portion, and two sleeves coupled substantially opposite each other to the front portion and the back portion. Each of the front portion, the back portion, and the sleeves have an interior layer and an exterior layer, with the interior layer having a smaller pore structure than the exterior layer.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 61/716,103, filed on Oct. 19, 2012, which is incorporated herein by reference as if set forth in its entirety.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to performance apparel appropriate for wear in an office environment, and more specifically to performance dress shirts.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

While trends in apparel tend to change seasonally, if not more frequently, the cotton men's dress shirt remains largely unchanged over the past century. These traditional dress shirts may provide a wearer a professional look, but tend not to provide a wearer much in the way of comfort. Instead, the standard construction of two front panels (connectable with buttons), a back panel, two sleeves, and a collar, each in limited sizes and forms, provides a perfect fit only for people of the exact predetermined size. Bespoke tailoring can provide a good fit, but at a much greater cost. Additionally, the fabrics used in traditional dress shirts tend to trap heat and put excessive wear on the seams, particularly across the back panel where stretching is prone to occur, such as when a wearer bends over. An overheated wearer may sweat, resulting in sweat stains and/or odor.
Accordingly, what is needed is a dress shirt for wear at the office that provides a good fit while being comfortable and addressing these issues of traditional dress shirts.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Embodiments of the present invention provide a performance dress shirt and methods for manufacturing the same.
In one aspect, the invention relates to a performance dress shirt. The performance dress shirt includes a front portion made of a first material, a back portion having outer sections made of a first material and an inner section made of a different second material coupled to the front portion, and two sleeves made of the first material coupled substantially opposite each other to the front portion and the back portion.
In some embodiments, the first material is a material adapted to wick moisture away from a wearer and dry quickly. The first material may have an interior layer with a smaller pore structure than the pore structure of an exterior layer. The first material may have a material adapted to spread moisture across a surface. In certain embodiments, the first material has a phase change material. The phase change material may be arranged in a pattern, and may be on an interior face.
In certain embodiments, the first material has an agent and/or a coating including antimicrobial agents to combat odor. The antimicrobial agents may be integral with the first material. The antimicrobial agents may be zinc or silver, and may even be burnt coffee or charcoal. In some embodiments, a location of the inner section is determined based on at least one of a photogrammetric strain and a thermographic analysis. The inner section may be located in a central area of the back portion. The second material may have a greater elasticity than the first material, e.g., the second material may be a 4-way stretch fabric. In certain embodiments, the second material is adapted to vent heat from the body.
In still other embodiments, the sleeves cover substantially all of a wearer's arms when the shirt is worn. The back portion outer sections and the inner portion may be sewn together, forming seams. The other portions may be sewn together as well. Certain seams may be aligned so that the seams substantially correspond to lines of non-extension on a wearer's body when the performance dress shirt is worn.
In another aspect, the invention relates to a method of manufacturing a performance dress shirt. The method includes providing a front portion made of a first material and providing a back portion having outer sections made of the first material and an inner section made of a different second material. The outer sections are sewn to the inner section. The method also includes providing two sleeves made of the first material and sewing the front portion, the back portion, and the sleeves together to form the shirt.
In still another aspect, the performance dress shirt has a front portion, a back portion coupled to the first portion, and two sleeves coupled substantially opposite each other to the front portion and the back portion. Each of the front portion, the back portion, and the sleeves have an interior layer and an exterior layer, with the interior layer having a smaller pore structure than the exterior layer.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

The advantages of the invention may be better understood by referring to the following drawings taken in conjunction with the accompanying description in which:

FIG. 1A is a schematic front view of a performance dress shirt, in accordance with one embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 1B is a schematic rear view of the performance dress shirt of FIG. 1A;

FIG. 2 is a schematic, enlarged, cross-sectional view of pore structures of a material used in a performance dress shirt, in accordance with one embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 3A is an image from a thermographic analysis of a performance dress shirt, in accordance with one embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 3B is an image from a photogrammetric strain analysis of a performance dress shirt, in accordance with one embodiment of the invention;

FIGS. 4A and 4B are schematic cross-sectional views of a traditional and a laminate construction of a collar, respectively, in accordance with one embodiment of the invention.

FIG. 4C is an image of a collar of a performance dress shirt with a stay in a sleeve, in accordance with one embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 4D is an image of the collar of FIG. 4C; and

FIG. 5 is an image of a cuff of a performance dress shirt, in accordance with one embodiment of the invention.

In the drawings, like reference characters generally refer to corresponding parts throughout the different views. The drawings are not necessarily to scale, emphasis instead being placed on the principles and concepts of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Embodiments of the present invention relate to dress shirts often worn in many office settings. These button down dress shirts generally have collars and long sleeves that cover a wearer's arms, although short sleeved versions may be appropriate, as well. As described above, traditional dress shirt construction incorporates two front panels, two sleeves, and a single back panel, often constructed of the same cotton material. To address issues with this construction, an embodiment of a performance dress shirt 100 has a relatively standard front portion 105 with two front panels 105 a, 105 b, sleeves 110 a, 110 b, and a collar 115, but the performance dress shirt 100 has a back portion 120 with different outer sections 125 a, 125 b, 125 c and an inner section 130. The various components may be connected along their edges, e.g., by sewing, resulting in seams 135. While certain embodiments below are described with respect to first and second materials, it should be understood than any component can be made of any material, and that more or fewer than two materials may be used (e.g., all the components can have the same material).
This construction provides multiple benefits, including the ability to use a first material for many of the components, while using a different second material for others. In some embodiments, the front portion 105, the sleeves 110, the collar 115, and the outer sections 125 may be made of the first material, while the inner section 130 is made of the second material. Embodiments of the performance dress shirt 100 use multiple materials to provide the characteristics desired, including those with moisture wicking and quick drying capabilities, as described in greater detail below. For example, the first material may be a body fabric, e.g., a largely synthetic (up to 100%) blend of various polyester fibers (e.g., polyester, nylon, lyocell) or synthetic/natural blends (e.g., wool, cotton). The materials, including the first material, may include one or multiple agents or coatings, including, but not limited to, antimicrobial agents such as zinc based coatings and/or polyester yarns with substantially pure silver. Such agents may also be embedded within and/or formed integral with the fibers. These may function by releasing zinc and/or silver ions to affect protein construction of cell walls for bacteria. Controlling odor may also be desired, and can be achieved, for example, by embedding activated charcoal particles or burnt coffee, which absorb aromatic compounds, within the fibers of the materials.
Moisture wicking may be provided using the multi-layered configuration 250 depicted in FIG. 2. An interior layer 255 with an interior face 260 (which is closest to a wearer when the performance dress shirt 100 is worn) has an interior pore structure with interior pores 265. The multi-layered configuration 250 also has an exterior layer 270 with an exterior face 275 opposite the interior face 260 and an exterior pore structure with exterior pores 280. The interior pores 265 may be smaller than the exterior pores 280, facilitating moisture wicking from the interior face 260 to the exterior face 275, and away from the body, through capillary action. Additionally, use of a fabric blend that does not absorb moisture into yarns and instead encourages horizontal spreading of moisture across a surface increases the surface area of moisture exposed to the environment, thereby enhancing evaporation and aiding in the quick drying of the garment. The layers may be woven, knit, or otherwise formed. The layered construction may be used in only certain components of the performance dress shirt 100, or may be used on all or substantially all of the components (e.g., the front portion 105, the back portion 120, and the sleeves 110).
The first material may be a pique, double knit fabric ranging between approximately 160 g/m²and approximately 180 g/m², though lighter or heavier weighted materials may be used. Use of thermoset fibers in certain embodiments may help the material (and any other area where the thermoset fibers are used) remain substantially wrinkle free. Certain areas of the interior face 260 may have different features, such as lamination, to provide nipple coverage, without altering an exterior appearance.
The back portion 120, and in some embodiments just the inner portion 130, may be made of a second material. For example, this second material may be designed to more effectively vent warmth from the body in a central area of the back portion 120 (e.g., a mesh or other highly breathable material). Through a thermographic analysis, it was determined the back tends to be an area where heat builds up (see FIG. 3A). Further thermographic analyses may identify other areas where it is desirable to include heat ventilating materials.
The inner portion 130 may also be formed with a stretch panel. Placement of a stretch panel across the center of the back portion 120 may be desirable to allow movement with reduced stress during not just dynamic movement, but also during sustained static stretch due to variations in human geometry, particularly through the abdomen/torso region. Use of a stretch panel in the center of the back portion 120 also helps maintain a trim fit on a variety of body types. This stretch fabric may exhibit greater elasticity than the first material. Whereas the first material may only stretch minimally, or not stretch at all (as may be the case with traditional dress shirts formed through single-needle stitching), increasing stress on the seams 135 under certain forces, the stretch fabric may stretch to a certain degree when subjected to the same force, thereby creating a lesser stress on the seams 135. Additionally, aligning seams 135 along lines of non-extension on the body can minimize stress on the seams 135, e.g., across the center of the back portion 120 as determined by a photogrammetric strain analysis (see FIG. 4A). Additional preferred seam locations may be determined through further photogrammetric strain analyses. Various fabrics exhibiting such stretch qualities may be used, including 100% moisture wicking polyester with anti-microbial coating that may be configured in stretch, interlock knit. Another example of a suitable material includes a 91% polyester and 9% elastane interlock knit. A 4-way stretch fabric may be particularly useful in this context. These materials are merely exemplary, and one of skill in the art would understand that a wide range of materials would provide the necessary function, particularly those with similar percentages of materials as those identified above.
In many embodiments, temperature control across much of the shirt 100, particularly the parts constructed of the first material, is desirable. The shirt materials may include a phase change material (e.g., one that melts near skin temperature), providing thermal buffering through latent heat. In some embodiments, a combination of 2-3 phase change materials based on paraffin waxes embedded in a polymer capsule may be used. The waxes tend to have melting temperatures above and below normal skin temperature, allowing a thermal buffering range between those two temperatures. In some embodiments, the phase change materials may be one or more polymers with such physical characteristics suitable for encapsulation and curing to the surface of other materials. In some embodiments, the phase change material may be applied in a pattern to the interior face 260. In other embodiments, the phase change material may be extruded within the core of the yarn of the first material. For example, waxes may be extruded or microencapuslated in polyester as a polyester filament is drawn during the manufacturing process.
Another aspect of the performance dress shirt is the collar 115. Often collar stains cause a wearer to retire a dress shirt. These collar stains can be caused by deposits of skin oils and sloughed off dead skin cells that are common in high contact, high abrasion areas, particularly the collar 115 (and the cuffs 590) of a standard dress shirt. The performance dress shirt 100 may mitigate or eliminate these issues through several varied mechanisms, including reducing abrasion and friction to make oils less susceptible to sloughing off, diminishing the visual appearance of any oils or cells that do deposit, and lessening the adhesion of oils such that they do not deposit initially. Creating a preferential environment for diffusing oils and cells aids the ability to remove them with standard household detergents.
To prevent or limit abrasion, fabrics with smoother surfaces (e.g., nylon or other smooth knits/weaves) than those typically used for collars and/or cuffs can be used. The appearance of oils may be reduced by using medium toned fabrics, as opposed to pure white. The use of patterns may also help disguise and camouflage stains. For example, the use of silver or gray, especially when in a striped or dotted pattern, may be particularly effective in limiting the appearance of stains. Implementing oleophobic fabrics and/or coatings into the design of the collar 115 and/or the cuffs 590 can reduce oil adhesion. Teflon® (DuPont—Wilmington, Del.) and coatings/fabrics with low wettability and or low surface energy help prevent adhesion. Polyester (including in a blend with nylon and silver), though oleophilic, may not absorb oils into fibers to the same degree as cotton. The unabsorbed oils may sit on the surface where they can easily be washed away, especially when concentrated detergents are used.
The performance dress shirt 100 may feature a laminate collar 115. Traditional collars typically have many layers (see FIG. 4A), including up to 6 or more, of fabric and interfacing, e.g., a top collar, a top collar interfacing, a reinforcement/stiffener, a stay placket, a bottom collar interfacing, and a bottom collar. The number of layers may be doubled at edges in certain areas, tending to produce a bulky and heavy construction that may not be aesthetically pleasing. Doubling can occur from the traditional method of sewing the collar inside out and then inverting it. A standard seam allowance of 0.25 inches causes a doubling of fabric thickness at the edge. A top stitch can be sewn along an edge to compress the many layers (e.g., 10-12) of fabric, creating a thick edge around the collar, particularly when the starting materials are relatively thick to begin with. A similar construction may be used for cuffs. Use of traditional fusible interfacing glue tends to detach after washing, potentially leaving the top and bottom collar layers disconnected, can increase the likelihood of wrinkling
The laminate collar 115 on the performance dress shirt 100, depicted in FIG. 4B, may have only three layers: a collar fabric, a thermoset glue layer, and a laser cut pocket stay (in some embodiments with a thermoset adhesive). The thermoset glue layer is relatively thicker than the lasercut pocket stay. To form the laminate collar, the top and bottom collar fabric (one piece) may be folded over a half-sized piece of thermoset glue film to for the edge of the collar. This single piece may be extended all the way to a collar stand. Fronts of the collar edges may be tucked under the glue layer on the underside before laminating the layers together, e.g., in a thermal press. The laser cut stay sleeve (see FIGS. 4C and 4D) may be thermally laminated to the underside of the collar such that the edge of the sleeve is not visible at the collar edge. The laser cut collar stand may also allow for venting. Similar techniques may be used on the cuffs, although a cuff stay sleeve is typically not desired.
This construction reduces the number of fabric layers through less interfacing. Unification of the top and bottom layers in a single piece of fabric may create a lighter, yet more rigid, collar, while creating a seamless edge at the collar edge. Laser cutting the fabric may help placing a single layer directly onto the collar without the need for foldovers to hide raw edges, as the laser melts and fuses the yarns to create a clean cut. Topstitching may no longer be necessary, creating a cleaner aesthetic. The resulting collar 115 tends to result in crisper and thinner edges than traditional collars, which many wearers may consider both functionally and aesthetically appealing. An exemplary cuff 590 resulting from this construction is depicted in FIG. 5.
The cuff 590 may also have a silver thread to help prevent bacteria that commonly festers in areas where bodily fluids (e.g., body oils) accumulate, particularly in high skin-contact, high abrasion areas like the neck and wrist. These bacteria tend to create foul odors as a product of their metabolism. In some embodiments, the cuffs are made of 98% polyester, 2% nylon with embedded pure silver yarns to prevent microbial growth in these areas. Additionally, the cuff lining can be made in the same manner as the collar stand lining, to prevent abrasion, oil adhesion and appearance.
Various embodiments and features of the present invention have been described in detail with particularity. The utilities thereof can be appreciated by those skilled in the art. It should be emphasized that the above-described embodiments of the present invention merely describe certain examples implementing the invention, including the best mode, in order to set forth a clear understanding of the principles of the invention. Numerous changes, variations, and modifications can be made to the embodiments described herein and the underlying concepts, without departing from the spirit and scope of the principles of the invention. All such variations and modifications are intended to be included within the scope of the present invention, as set forth herein. The scope of the present invention is to be defined by the claims, rather than limited by the forgoing description of various preferred and alternative embodiments.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A performance dress shirt comprising:

a front portion comprising a first material;

a back portion coupled to the front portion, the back portion comprising:

outer sections comprising the first material; and

an inner section comprising a second material different from the first material; and

two sleeves comprising the first material connected substantially opposite each other to the front portion and the back portion.

2. The performance dress shirt of claim 1, wherein the first material comprises a material adapted to wick moisture away from a wearer and dry quickly.

3. The performance dress shirt of claim 2, wherein the first material comprises an interior layer comprising a smaller pore structure than the pore structure of an exterior layer.

4. The performance dress shirt of claim 2, wherein the first material comprises a material adapted to spread moisture across a surface.

5. The performance dress shirt of claim 1, wherein the first material comprises a phase change material.

6. The performance dress shirt of claim 5, wherein the phase change material is disposed on an interior face.

7. The performance dress shirt of claim 1, wherein the first material comprises at least one of an agent and a coating comprising antimicrobial agents to combat odor.

8. The performance dress shirt of claim 7, wherein the antimicrobial agents are integral with the first material.

9. The performance dress shirt of claim 7, wherein the antimicrobial agents comprise at least one of zinc and silver.

10. The performance dress shirt of claim 1, wherein a location of the inner section is determined based on at least one of a photogrammetric strain and a thermographic analysis.

11. The performance dress shirt of claim 1, wherein the inner section is disposed in a central area of the back portion.

12. The performance dress shirt of claim 1, wherein the second material comprises a greater elasticity than the first material.

13. The performance dress shirt of claim 12, wherein the second material comprises a 4-way stretch fabric.

14. The performance dress shirt of claim 1, wherein the second material is adapted to vent heat from the body.

15. The performance dress shirt of claim 1, wherein the sleeves are adapted to cover substantially all of a wearer's arms.

16. The performance dress shirt of claim 1, wherein the back portion outer sections and inner portion are sewn together forming seams.

17. The performance dress shirt of claim 16, wherein the seams are aligned so that the seams substantially correspond to lines of non-extension on a wearer's body when worn.

18. A method of manufacturing a performance dress shirt, the method comprising:

providing a front portion comprising a first material;

providing a back portion, the back portion comprising:

outer sections comprising the first material; and

an inner section comprising a second material different from the first material, wherein the outer sections are sewn to the inner section;

providing two sleeves comprising the first material; and

sewing the front portion, the back portion, and the sleeves together to form the shirt.

19. A performance dress shirt comprising:

a front portion;

a back portion connected to the first portion; and

two sleeves connected substantially opposite each other to the front portion and the back portion,

wherein each of the front portion, the back portion, and the sleeves comprise an interior layer and an exterior layer, wherein the interior layer comprises a smaller pore structure than the exterior layer.