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US20090123402A1 - Lip Cosmetics - Google Patents

Lip Cosmetics Download PDF

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Publication number
US20090123402A1
US20090123402A1 US11/883,089 US88308906A US2009123402A1 US 20090123402 A1 US20090123402 A1 US 20090123402A1 US 88308906 A US88308906 A US 88308906A US 2009123402 A1 US2009123402 A1 US 2009123402A1
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
lip cosmetic
lip
mass
color
ingredient
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Abandoned
Application number
US11/883,089
Inventor
Yukiko Oi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Nisshin Oillio Group Ltd
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Individual
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Filing date
Publication date
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Assigned to NISSHIN OILLIO GROUP, LTD., THE reassignment NISSHIN OILLIO GROUP, LTD., THE ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: OI, YUKIKO
Publication of US20090123402A1 publication Critical patent/US20090123402A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to lip cosmetics. Specifically, the present invention relates to lip cosmetics which are excellent in the sense of use such as smoothness and adhesion upon application, excellent in moisturizing and protecting properties for lips, and excellent in long-term stability.
  • skin care cosmetics are produced by emulsifying oily ingredients and aqueous ingredients using surfactants.
  • the oily ingredients are used for adding emollient properties to the cosmetics
  • the aqueous ingredients are used for adding moisturizing properties to the cosmetics.
  • makeup cosmetics are required to have excellent moisture-retaining properties or water-holding properties, and various developments have been conducted.
  • makeup cosmetics particularly, in lip cosmetics, the blending of water has been attempted for a long time.
  • Patent Documents 1 to 3 disclose emulsified lip rouge including W/O type emulsifying bases blended with polyols.
  • the lip rouge disclosed in these Patent Documents protects and moisturizes lips to some extent, but various developments have been conducted for further improving such properties.
  • Patent Document 4 discloses a lip cosmetic including a specific oil.
  • the lip cosmetic disclosed in this Patent Document has been mainly improved in the safety and stability. Therefore, it is required to be further improved in moisturizing properties, for example.
  • Patent Document 5 discloses lip balm which contains a base composed of nonaqueous ointment base, a polyol, and a nonionic surfactant and is substantially water-free.
  • the lip balm disclosed in this Patent Document moisturizes lips to some extent, but the effect is limited because the lip balm is substantially water-free.
  • Patent Document 6 an oily makeup cosmetic containing a specific oligomer is disclosed.
  • the oily makeup cosmetic disclosed in this Patent Document can be used as, for example, lip rouge, and is excellent in gloss upon application, a touch, and preservation stability. However, it is required to be further improved in moisturizing and protecting properties.
  • Lip gloss is used to give lips shine.
  • Lip cream or lip balm may be used as a base for lip rouge as a lip care product for preventing lips from drying and roughening, which are often experienced by lip rouge consumers, or may be used for protecting lips.
  • the use of lip gloss or lip cream or balm with lip rouge takes time to do the same thing twice and also may worsen the adhesion of the lip rouge or may cause a difference between an actually perceived color and the actual lip rouge color.
  • Patent Document 1 Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-33084
  • Patent Document 2 Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-40645
  • Patent Document 3 Japanese Patent Publication No. 62-61565
  • Patent Document 4 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-223925
  • Patent Document 5 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2000-95666
  • Patent Document 6 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-104843
  • Non-Patent Document 1 FRAGRANCE JOURNAL, published by Fragrance Journal Co., April 1992 (Heisei 4, April 15), pp. 14-21.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide lip cosmetics which are excellent in the sense of use such as smoothness and adhesion upon application, excellent in moisturizing and protecting properties for lips, and excellent in long-term stability.
  • the present inventors have conducted intensive studies in order to achieve the above-mentioned object and have found that the above-mentioned object can be achieved by using a specific esterification reaction product and have accomplished the present invention.
  • the present inventors have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned object and have found that the above-mentioned object can be achieved by blending a specific oligomer, a specific ester oil, a polyol, an oily gelling agent, and water and have accomplished the present invention.
  • the present invention provides a lip cosmetic containing the following ingredients (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e):
  • ester oil which is composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and which is in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature;
  • lip cosmetic which are excellent in the sense of use such as smoothness and adhesion upon application, excellent in moisturizing and protecting properties for lips, and excellent in long-term stability can be provided.
  • the lip cosmetic of the present invention contains the following ingredients (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e):
  • ester oil which is composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and which is in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature;
  • the glycerin condensate for obtaining the oligomer of the ingredient (a) has an average polymerization degree of 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably about 10. Specifically, decaglycerin is particularly preferred. In the present invention, decaglycerin, which has an average polymerization degree of about 10, is preferred, but the average polymerization degree is not limited thereto.
  • the glycerin condensate may be a mixture of those having average polymerization degrees of from 8 to 12.
  • the oligomer in this description, referred to as “polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate)”) may be produced as an esterified product by esterification reaction of behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and a glycerin condensate.
  • the esterification reaction may be performed by, for example, (1) simultaneous esterification reaction of these three components; (2) esterification reaction of a glycerin condensate and behenic acid, and then ester exchange reaction of this esterified product and eicosane diacid; or (3) esterification reaction of a glycerin condensate and eicosane diacid, and then esterification reaction of the esterified product and behenic acid.
  • the oligomer used in the present invention may be produced by any one of the above-mentioned methods (1) to (3).
  • the esterification reaction can be performed in the presence or absence of an acid, alkaline, or metal catalyst in an organic solvent and/or gas inert to the esterification reaction at 100 to 240° C. for several to twenty hours while removing the by-product water.
  • the progress of the reaction can be monitored by measuring acid value or composition of free acids in the reaction system.
  • the completion of the reaction can be determined by this monitoring.
  • the reaction product of the esterification may contain unreacted glycerin condensate, behenic acid, and eicosane diacid and may further contain by-products such as fatty acids and low molecular weight glycerides. Therefore, the reaction product is purified by washing with water and removing the by-products by, for example, alkaline deacidification, and then is subjected to bleaching and deodorization.
  • the thus obtained oligomer is a mixture of the glycerin condensate, behenic acid, and encosane diacid which are esterified in a net-like form and has a melting point of about 50 to 80° C.
  • the oligomer as the ingredient (a) described above may be a commercially available one such as “Nomcort HK-P” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.
  • the content of the ingredient (a) is not especially limited, but is preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 1 to 16% by mass, more preferably 1 to 10% by mass, and most preferably 2 to 8% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic. Furthermore, the content of the ingredient (a) is preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 2 to 20% by mass, more preferably 3 to 16% by mass, more preferably 3 to 10% by mass, and most preferably 6 to 10% by mass on the basis of the total mass (a+b+c) of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c), wherein the ingredients (b) and (c) are described below.
  • the lip cosmetic containing the ingredient (a) can be further improved in the sense of use.
  • any alcohol having at least two hydroxyl groups in its molecule can be used as the polyol of the ingredient (b).
  • examples of such polyols include glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mannitol.
  • the polyol may be used alone or in a combination of two or more thereof.
  • glycerin diglycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and sorbitol are preferred as the ingredient (b), and glycerin is particularly preferred.
  • the content of the ingredient (b) is not especially limited, but is preferably 45% by mass or less, more preferably 18 to 40% by mass, more preferably 20 to 35% by mass, and most preferably 24 to 30% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic. Furthermore, the content of the ingredient (b) is preferably 90% by mass or less, more preferably 10 to 90% by mass, more preferably 20 to 85% by mass, more preferably 40 to 85% by mass, more preferably 60 to 85% by mass, and most preferably 65 to 80% by mass on the basis of the total mass (a+b+c) of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c).
  • the lip cosmetic containing the ingredient (b) can be further improved in the moisturizing properties, without being accompanied with the taste of the polyol and without giving feeling of discomfort to the user.
  • Water as the ingredient (c) may be tap water, distilled water, or purified water.
  • the content of the ingredient (c) is not especially limited, but is preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 2 to 8% by mass, more preferably 3 to 7% by mass, and most preferably 3 to 5% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
  • the lip cosmetic according to the present invention contains an oily ingredient in a gel form (gel cosmetic), and thereby excellent moisturizing properties can be achieved.
  • the lip cosmetic can be given in a uniform gel form, and the above-described properties can be sufficiently achieved.
  • a lip cosmetic containing an oily ingredient in a gel form can be prepared also in a condition not containing the ingredient (c), namely, in a water-free condition.
  • excellent moisturizing properties can be achieved by the presence of water. Therefore, it is preferred that water is contained in the above-mentioned range.
  • the ingredient (d) is an ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and is in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature (25° C.).
  • a carboxylic acid containing 1 to 6 carboxyl groups is preferred, and an alcohol containing 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups is preferred.
  • ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and being in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature (25° C.)
  • ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and being in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature (25° C.)
  • examples of the ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and being in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature (25° C.) include olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, macademia nut oil, camellia oil, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl isoethylhexanoate (cetyl isooctanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate (o
  • an ester oil having a viscosity of 300 mPa ⁇ s or more at 25° C. or being in a paste form can give excellent makeup-lasting properties to lip cosmetics and is therefore preferred as the ingredient (d).
  • castor oil pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, glyceryl triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, diisostearyl malate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, phytosteryl oleate, dipentaerythrityl (hydroxystearate/stearate/rosinate), dipentaerythrityl (hydroxystearate/isostearate), [glyceryl (octanoate/stearate/adipate)] glyceryl (ethylhexanoate/stearate/adipate), diglyceryl (hexyldecanoate/sebacate), glyceryl monostearate, (isostearic acid/sebacic acid) ditrimethylolpropane
  • the lip cosmetic according to the present invention may further contain a coloring agent, as described below. Therefore, an ester oil excellent in dispersion of a coloring agent is particularly preferred. Furthermore, an ester oil having 5 or more hydroxyl groups can give high adhesion to lips, excellent makeup-lasting properties, and uniform appearance to lip cosmetics and, thereby, is particularly preferred.
  • ester oils having 5 or more hydroxyl groups are castor oil, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, glyceryl triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, diisostearyl malate, (isostearic acid/sebacic acid) ditrimethylolpropane oligoester, and ditrimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate.
  • the ester oil of the ingredient (d) is an ester composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms, and can be produced by esterification reaction of the carboxylic acid and the alcohol.
  • the esterification reaction can be carried out by charging the carboxylic acid and the alcohol in an appropriate reaction vessel and treating them at 150 to 200° C. for about several hours to ten hours in the presence or absence of an acid, alkali, or metal catalyst in an organic solvent and/or gas which is inactive to the esterification reaction, while removing by-product water.
  • unreacted materials may remain after the completion of the reaction, the unreacted materials are separated and removed by water washing, alkaline deacidification, and a known process, for example, treatment with an adsorbent such as silica gel for purification of the reaction product, and then the reaction product is subjected to bleaching and deodorization.
  • an adsorbent such as silica gel
  • the ester oil of the ingredient (d) may be a commercially available one such as “Cosmol 222” (containing diisostearyl malate) manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd. or “Cosmol 43V” (containing polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate) manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.
  • the content of the ingredient (d) is not especially limited, but is preferably 70% by mass or less, more preferably 30 to 70% by mass, more preferably 34 to 70% by mass, more preferably 40 to 70% by mass, more preferably 45 to 70% by mass, more preferably 45 to 65% by mass, and most preferably 45 to 60% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
  • the lip cosmetic can be given in a uniform gel form, and makeup can be kept for longer time.
  • oily gelling agent of the ingredient (e) will be described. Any oily gelling agent which can be dissolved in the ester oil used as the ingredient (d) and can thicken or gelate the ester oil at 25° C. can be used. By blending the oily gelling agent of the ingredient (e) to a lip cosmetic, the lip cosmetic can obtain a film-forming ability and be prevented from coming off from lips.
  • oily gelling agents examples include glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate) (an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and glycerin), dextrin fatty acid esters, 12-hydroxystearic acid, fumy silica, sucrose fatty acid esters, metallic soap, and organic modified clay minerals.
  • the ingredient (e) may be used alone or in a combination of two or more thereof.
  • the oily gelling agent is an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and glycerin
  • the oligomer can be produced as an esterified product of these materials.
  • the esterification reaction can be performed as in the ingredient (a).
  • the thus obtained oligomer is a mixture of glycerin, behenic acid, and encosane diacid esterified in a net-like form and has a melting point of about 50 to 80° C.
  • the oligomer of the ingredient (e) may be a commercially available one such as “Nomcort HK-G” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.
  • the content of the ingredient (e) is determined depending on types of the ester oil and the oily gelling agent and is not especially limited in the range that the oily gelling agent can be dissolved in the ester oil used and thicken or gelate the ester oil at 25° C.
  • the content is preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by mass, and most preferably 1 to 5% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
  • the mass ratio ((a+b+c):(d+e)) of the total mass (a+b+c) of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c) and the total mass (d+e) of the ingredients (d) and (e) is not especially limited, but is preferably 8:2 to 3:7, more preferably 3:1 to 3:7, more preferably 2:1 to 3:7, and most preferably 5:5 to 3.7.
  • the lip cosmetic of the present invention is in a gel form as described above, and by controlling the mass ratio ((a+b+c):(d+e)) of the total mass (a+b+c) of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c) and the total mass (d+e) of the ingredients (d) and (e) within the above-mentioned range, the lip cosmetic can be given in a uniform gel form, and the effects such as moisturizing properties can be further improved.
  • the lip cosmetic according to the present invention may contain a coloring agent and can be used as lip rouge when containing such a coloring agent.
  • a coloring agent include various inorganic and organic pigments such as ⁇ -carotene, iron sesquioxide, Red Nos. 2, 3, 40, 102, 104, 105, 106, 201, and 202, Yellow Nos. 4 and 5, Green No. 3, Blue Nos.
  • the lip cosmetic according to the present invention may contain a branched hydrocarbon.
  • a lip cosmetic containing a branched hydrocarbon can have improved gloss and adhesive properties and also can have reduced cost.
  • the branched hydrocarbon include isoparaffinic hydrocarbons, squalane, squalene, pristane, and ⁇ -olefin oligomers.
  • the isoparaffinic hydrocarbons contain isobutylene as a polymer component, and examples thereof include polybutene (polybutylene), light isoparaffin, light liquid isoparaffin (isoparaffin), heavy liquid isoparaffin (hydrogenated polyisobutene), polyisobutylene (butyl-rubber), and liquid isoparaffin (liquid polyisoparaffin, hydrogenated polyisobutylene).
  • polybutene polybutylene
  • light isoparaffin light liquid isoparaffin
  • isoparaffin heavy liquid isoparaffin
  • hydrogenated polyisobutene polyisobutylene
  • butyl-rubber polyisobutylene
  • liquid isoparaffin liquid polyisoparaffin, hydrogenated polyisobutylene
  • the branched hydrocarbon used has an average molecular weight of 500 to 2700.
  • the branched hydrocarbons having such molecular weights are preferred in view of giving gloss.
  • the lip cosmetic can obtain a surface which gives comfortable touching feeling.
  • branched hydrocarbons having average molecular weights of 800 to 1500 are further preferred.
  • the content of the branched hydrocarbon in a lip cosmetic according to the present invention is not especially limited, but is preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 2 to 15% by mass, and most preferably 5 to 12% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
  • the total amount of the branched hydrocarbon and the ingredient (d) is preferably 70% by mass or less, more preferably 30 to 70% by mass, more preferably 40 to 70% by mass, more preferably 50 to 70% by mass, and most preferably 55 to 70% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
  • the lip cosmetic can be given in a uniform gel form.
  • the lip cosmetic of the present invention may further contain a perfume, an ultraviolet absorber, an antiphlogistic agent, an antiinflammatory agent, a preservative, vitamins, a fungicide, an antioxidant, a sequestering agent, a lubricant, a pH-adjuster, a flavoring, or a deodorant in the ranges that do not impair the above-described effects.
  • the lip cosmetic of the present invention is used as jar or stick lip rouge, lip balm, or lip gloss.
  • the lip cosmetic of the present invention may be produced by any process, for example, as follows:
  • this mixture solution containing the ingredients (a), (b), and (c) is referred to as “polyol phase”).
  • the ingredients (d) and (e) are stirred at 70 to 80° C. to dissolve the ingredients.
  • the resulting mixture (in this Description, this mixture solution containing the ingredients (d) and (e) is referred to as “oil phase”) is gradually added to the mixture solution containing the ingredients (a), (b), and (c) under stirring. Then, the resulting solution is cooled to about 50° C., and a dye or other additives are added thereto, according to need.
  • the resulting mixture is cooled to room temperature to obtain a lip cosmetic of the present invention.
  • the mixture solution may be poured into an appropriate container before the cooling and be cooled in the container to prepare a lip cosmetic.
  • part(s) and % denote part(s) by mass and % by mass, respectively, unless otherwise specified.
  • lip cosmetics were evaluated as follows:
  • Lip cosmetics were observed by the naked eye and evaluated according to the following criteria:
  • X having nonuniform appearance, being in a liquid form, or exhibiting separation.
  • Ten monitors used the lip cosmetics and evaluated them according to the following evaluation criteria. The results are shown as average of evaluation by the ten monitors.
  • Ten monitors used the lip cosmetics for one week and evaluated conditions after one week according to the following evaluation criteria. The results are shown as average of evaluation by the ten monitors.
  • Lip cosmetics having the formulae shown in Table 1 were produced. First, the ingredients of the oil phase were weighed in a beaker at the ratio shown in Table 1 to prepare a mixture solution. This mixture solution was heated to 70° C. The unit of numerals in Table 1 is %.
  • the ingredients of the polyol phase were weighed in a beaker, and the resulting mixture solution was heated to 70° C. as in the oil phase. Then, the heated polyol phase was gradually added to the oil phase over 20 min under propeller stirring at 1000 rpm. After the completion of the addition, the mixture was further stirred for 5 min. Then, the mixture was poured into a jar container and was cooled to room temperature to obtain a lip cosmetic in a gel form. The resulting lip cosmetic was subjected to the above-described evaluation. Table 2 shows the evaluation results.
  • Example 1 Example 2
  • Example 3 Appearance ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Ease of application ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Makeup lasting ability ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Lip chapping prevention ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Gloss ⁇ ⁇ ⁇
  • the evaluation results shown in Table 2 show that the lip cosmetics prepared in Examples 1 to 3 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria. Furthermore, the lip cosmetics containing glyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate) at a ratio to the polyol phase of 16% by mass or less satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria.
  • Lip cosmetics were produced by the same procedure as that in Examples 1 to 3, except that the formulae were those shown in Table 3.
  • polyglyceryl-10 behenate/eicosadioate
  • glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate
  • diisostearyl malate and hydrogenated polyisobutene were the same as those in Examples 1 to 3.
  • the resulting lip cosmetics were subjected to the above-described evaluation.
  • Table 4 shows the evaluation results.
  • Example 4 Example 5
  • Example 6 Appearance ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Ease of application ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Makeup-lasting ability ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Lip chapping prevention ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Gloss ⁇ ⁇ ⁇
  • the evaluation results shown in Table 4 show that the lip cosmetics prepared in Examples 4 to 6 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria. Furthermore, the lip cosmetics containing water in the range of 2 to 10% by mass satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria.
  • Lip cosmetics were produced by the same procedure as that in Examples 1 to 3, except that the formulae were those shown in Table 5.
  • polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate), glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate), diisostearyl malate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene were the same as those in Examples 1 to 3, and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate was “Salacos 5418V” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.
  • Table 6 shows the evaluation results.
  • Example 1 Polyol phase Polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate) 4 4 4 4 Water 5 5 5 5 Glycerin 20 20 20 20 20 Diglycerin 7 7 7 7 1,3-Butylene glycol 4 4 4 4 Oil phase Glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate) 1 3 5 0 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 10 10 10 10 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 10 10 10 10 10 Diisostearyl malate 38.5 36.5 34.5 39.5 Red No.
  • Example 1 Appearance ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Ease of application ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Makeup-lasting ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ X ability Lip chapping ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ prevention Gloss ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇
  • the evaluation results shown in Table 6 show that the lip cosmetic of Comparative Example 1, which does not contain glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate) (ingredient (e)), is inferior in makeup-lasting ability.
  • the lip cosmetics prepared in Examples 7 to 9 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria.
  • the lip cosmetics containing the oily gelling agent in the range of 1 to 5% by mass satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria.
  • Lip cosmetics were produced by the same procedure as that in Examples 1 to 3, except that the formulae were those shown in Table 7.
  • polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate), glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate), diisostearyl malate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene were the same as those in Examples 1 to 3, and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate was “Salacos 5418V” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.
  • Table 8 shows the evaluation results.
  • Example 10 Example 11
  • Example 12 Appearance ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Ease of application ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Makeup-lasting ability ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Lip chapping prevention ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Gloss ⁇ ⁇ ⁇
  • the evaluation results shown in Table 8 show that the lip cosmetics prepared in Examples 10 to 12 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria. Furthermore, the lip cosmetics containing the polyol phase and the oil phase at the mass ratio range of 3:7 to 5:5 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria.
  • Lip cosmetics were produced by the same procedure as that in Examples 1 to 3, except that the formulae were those shown in Table 9.
  • the lip cosmetic in Comparative Example 2 exhibited separation and was not obtained in a uniform gel form. Therefore, it was not subjected to the evaluation.
  • polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate), glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate), diisostearyl malate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene were the same as those in Examples 1 to 3, and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate was “Cosmol 43V” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd. and diisostearyl malate was “Cosmol 222” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.
  • Table 10 shows the evaluation results.

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Abstract

[Object] To provide lip cosmetics which are excellent in the sense of use such as smoothness and adhesion upon application, excellent in moisturizing and protecting properties for lips, and excellent in long-term stability.
[Solving Means] A lip cosmetic of the present invention contains the following ingredients (a) to (e): (a) an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and a glycerin condensate; (b) a polyol; (c) water; (d) an ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and being in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature; and (e) an oily gelling agent.

Description

    TECHNICAL FIELD
  • The present invention relates to lip cosmetics. Specifically, the present invention relates to lip cosmetics which are excellent in the sense of use such as smoothness and adhesion upon application, excellent in moisturizing and protecting properties for lips, and excellent in long-term stability.
    • BACKGROUND ART
  • In general, skin care cosmetics are produced by emulsifying oily ingredients and aqueous ingredients using surfactants. The oily ingredients are used for adding emollient properties to the cosmetics, and the aqueous ingredients are used for adding moisturizing properties to the cosmetics. Furthermore, there is also a tendency that makeup cosmetics are required to have excellent moisture-retaining properties or water-holding properties, and various developments have been conducted. In makeup cosmetics, particularly, in lip cosmetics, the blending of water has been attempted for a long time.
  • For example, Patent Documents 1 to 3 disclose emulsified lip rouge including W/O type emulsifying bases blended with polyols. The lip rouge disclosed in these Patent Documents protects and moisturizes lips to some extent, but various developments have been conducted for further improving such properties.
  • For example, Patent Document 4 discloses a lip cosmetic including a specific oil. The lip cosmetic disclosed in this Patent Document has been mainly improved in the safety and stability. Therefore, it is required to be further improved in moisturizing properties, for example.
  • Patent Document 5 discloses lip balm which contains a base composed of nonaqueous ointment base, a polyol, and a nonionic surfactant and is substantially water-free. The lip balm disclosed in this Patent Document moisturizes lips to some extent, but the effect is limited because the lip balm is substantially water-free.
  • In Patent Document 6, an oily makeup cosmetic containing a specific oligomer is disclosed. The oily makeup cosmetic disclosed in this Patent Document can be used as, for example, lip rouge, and is excellent in gloss upon application, a touch, and preservation stability. However, it is required to be further improved in moisturizing and protecting properties.
  • It is understood that the addition of water to lip cosmetics as described above is useful for adding moisturizing properties to the lip cosmetics. However, W/O type emulsified lip rouge has disadvantages that the lip rouge may be readily fractured, the gloss in appearance may be lost, and the color phase may change. In O/W type emulsified lip rouge, makeup does not last for a long time and comes off quickly. In addition to such disadvantages, it is reported that lip rouge containing high moisture content, adversely, chaps lips. Therefore, O/W type emulsified lip rouge is not an optimized formula (Non-Patent Document 1).
  • Lip gloss is used to give lips shine. Lip cream or lip balm may be used as a base for lip rouge as a lip care product for preventing lips from drying and roughening, which are often experienced by lip rouge consumers, or may be used for protecting lips. The use of lip gloss or lip cream or balm with lip rouge takes time to do the same thing twice and also may worsen the adhesion of the lip rouge or may cause a difference between an actually perceived color and the actual lip rouge color.
  • [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-33084
  • [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-40645
  • [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Publication No. 62-61565
  • [Patent Document 4] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-223925
  • [Patent Document 5] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2000-95666
  • [Patent Document 6] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-104843
  • [Non-Patent Document 1] FRAGRANCE JOURNAL, published by Fragrance Journal Co., April 1992 (Heisei 4, April 15), pp. 14-21.
    • DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION Problems to be Solved by the Invention
  • An object of the present invention is to provide lip cosmetics which are excellent in the sense of use such as smoothness and adhesion upon application, excellent in moisturizing and protecting properties for lips, and excellent in long-term stability.
    • Means for Solving the Problem
  • The present inventors have conducted intensive studies in order to achieve the above-mentioned object and have found that the above-mentioned object can be achieved by using a specific esterification reaction product and have accomplished the present invention.
  • The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned object and have found that the above-mentioned object can be achieved by blending a specific oligomer, a specific ester oil, a polyol, an oily gelling agent, and water and have accomplished the present invention.
  • That is, the present invention provides a lip cosmetic containing the following ingredients (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e):
  • (a) an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and a glycerin condensate;
  • (b) a polyol;
  • (c) water;
  • (d) an ester oil which is composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and which is in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature; and
  • (e) an oily gelling agent.
    • Advantageous Effects of the Invention
  • According to the present invention, lip cosmetic which are excellent in the sense of use such as smoothness and adhesion upon application, excellent in moisturizing and protecting properties for lips, and excellent in long-term stability can be provided.
    • Best Mode for Carrying Out the Invention
  • A lip cosmetic of the present invention will now be described.
  • The lip cosmetic of the present invention contains the following ingredients (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e):
  • (a) an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and a glycerin condensate;
  • (b) a polyol;
  • (c) water;
  • (d) an ester oil which is composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and which is in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature; and
  • (e) an oily gelling agent.
  • The ingredient (a) will now be described.
  • The glycerin condensate for obtaining the oligomer of the ingredient (a) has an average polymerization degree of 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably about 10. Specifically, decaglycerin is particularly preferred. In the present invention, decaglycerin, which has an average polymerization degree of about 10, is preferred, but the average polymerization degree is not limited thereto. For example, the glycerin condensate may be a mixture of those having average polymerization degrees of from 8 to 12.
  • The oligomer (in this description, referred to as “polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate)”) may be produced as an esterified product by esterification reaction of behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and a glycerin condensate. The esterification reaction may be performed by, for example, (1) simultaneous esterification reaction of these three components; (2) esterification reaction of a glycerin condensate and behenic acid, and then ester exchange reaction of this esterified product and eicosane diacid; or (3) esterification reaction of a glycerin condensate and eicosane diacid, and then esterification reaction of the esterified product and behenic acid.
  • The oligomer used in the present invention may be produced by any one of the above-mentioned methods (1) to (3). The esterification reaction can be performed in the presence or absence of an acid, alkaline, or metal catalyst in an organic solvent and/or gas inert to the esterification reaction at 100 to 240° C. for several to twenty hours while removing the by-product water. The progress of the reaction can be monitored by measuring acid value or composition of free acids in the reaction system. The completion of the reaction can be determined by this monitoring. The reaction product of the esterification may contain unreacted glycerin condensate, behenic acid, and eicosane diacid and may further contain by-products such as fatty acids and low molecular weight glycerides. Therefore, the reaction product is purified by washing with water and removing the by-products by, for example, alkaline deacidification, and then is subjected to bleaching and deodorization.
  • The thus obtained oligomer is a mixture of the glycerin condensate, behenic acid, and encosane diacid which are esterified in a net-like form and has a melting point of about 50 to 80° C.
  • The oligomer as the ingredient (a) described above may be a commercially available one such as “Nomcort HK-P” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.
  • The content of the ingredient (a) is not especially limited, but is preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 1 to 16% by mass, more preferably 1 to 10% by mass, and most preferably 2 to 8% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic. Furthermore, the content of the ingredient (a) is preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 2 to 20% by mass, more preferably 3 to 16% by mass, more preferably 3 to 10% by mass, and most preferably 6 to 10% by mass on the basis of the total mass (a+b+c) of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c), wherein the ingredients (b) and (c) are described below. By controlling the content of the ingredient (a) within the above-mentioned range, the lip cosmetic containing the ingredient (a) can be further improved in the sense of use.
  • Then, the polyols as the ingredient (b) will be described. Any alcohol having at least two hydroxyl groups in its molecule can be used as the polyol of the ingredient (b). Examples of such polyols include glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mannitol. The polyol may be used alone or in a combination of two or more thereof.
  • Among the above-mentioned examples, glycerin, diglycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and sorbitol are preferred as the ingredient (b), and glycerin is particularly preferred.
  • The content of the ingredient (b) is not especially limited, but is preferably 45% by mass or less, more preferably 18 to 40% by mass, more preferably 20 to 35% by mass, and most preferably 24 to 30% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic. Furthermore, the content of the ingredient (b) is preferably 90% by mass or less, more preferably 10 to 90% by mass, more preferably 20 to 85% by mass, more preferably 40 to 85% by mass, more preferably 60 to 85% by mass, and most preferably 65 to 80% by mass on the basis of the total mass (a+b+c) of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c).
  • By controlling the content of the ingredient (b) within the above-mentioned range, the lip cosmetic containing the ingredient (b) can be further improved in the moisturizing properties, without being accompanied with the taste of the polyol and without giving feeling of discomfort to the user.
  • Next, the ingredient (c) will be described. Water as the ingredient (c) may be tap water, distilled water, or purified water. The content of the ingredient (c) is not especially limited, but is preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 2 to 8% by mass, more preferably 3 to 7% by mass, and most preferably 3 to 5% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
  • The lip cosmetic according to the present invention contains an oily ingredient in a gel form (gel cosmetic), and thereby excellent moisturizing properties can be achieved. By controlling the content of the ingredient (c) within the above-mentioned range, the lip cosmetic can be given in a uniform gel form, and the above-described properties can be sufficiently achieved. A lip cosmetic containing an oily ingredient in a gel form can be prepared also in a condition not containing the ingredient (c), namely, in a water-free condition. However, excellent moisturizing properties can be achieved by the presence of water. Therefore, it is preferred that water is contained in the above-mentioned range.
  • Next, the ingredient (d) will be described. The ingredient (d) is an ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and is in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature (25° C.).
  • As the components of the ester oil, a carboxylic acid containing 1 to 6 carboxyl groups is preferred, and an alcohol containing 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups is preferred.
  • Examples of the ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and being in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature (25° C.) include olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, macademia nut oil, camellia oil, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl isoethylhexanoate (cetyl isooctanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate (octyl palmitate), octyldodecyl myristate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, glyceryl triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, octyldodecyl lactate, triethylhexanoin (glyceryl trioctanoate), diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate (neopentyl glycol dioctanoate), neopentyl glycol didecanoate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, phytosteryl oleate, dipentaerythrityl (hydroxystearate/stearate/rosinate), dipentaerythrityl (hydroxystearate/isostearate), [glyceryl (octanoate/stearate/adipate)] glyceryl (ethylhexanoate/stearate/adipate), diglyceryl (hexyldecanoate/sebacate), glyceryl monostearate, (isostearic acid/sebacic acid) ditrimethylolpropane oligoester, ditrimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, and erythrityl triethylhexanoate. The ingredient (d) may be used alone or in a combination of two or more thereof.
  • Among these examples, an ester oil having a viscosity of 300 mPa·s or more at 25° C. or being in a paste form can give excellent makeup-lasting properties to lip cosmetics and is therefore preferred as the ingredient (d). Examples of the ester oil having a viscosity of 300 mPa·s or more at 25° C. or being in a paste form include castor oil, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, glyceryl triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, diisostearyl malate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, phytosteryl oleate, dipentaerythrityl (hydroxystearate/stearate/rosinate), dipentaerythrityl (hydroxystearate/isostearate), [glyceryl (octanoate/stearate/adipate)] glyceryl (ethylhexanoate/stearate/adipate), diglyceryl (hexyldecanoate/sebacate), glyceryl monostearate, (isostearic acid/sebacic acid) ditrimethylolpropane oligoester, and ditrimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate.
  • The lip cosmetic according to the present invention may further contain a coloring agent, as described below. Therefore, an ester oil excellent in dispersion of a coloring agent is particularly preferred. Furthermore, an ester oil having 5 or more hydroxyl groups can give high adhesion to lips, excellent makeup-lasting properties, and uniform appearance to lip cosmetics and, thereby, is particularly preferred. Among the above-mentioned examples, ester oils having 5 or more hydroxyl groups are castor oil, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, glyceryl triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, diisostearyl malate, (isostearic acid/sebacic acid) ditrimethylolpropane oligoester, and ditrimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate.
  • The ester oil of the ingredient (d) is an ester composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms, and can be produced by esterification reaction of the carboxylic acid and the alcohol. The esterification reaction can be carried out by charging the carboxylic acid and the alcohol in an appropriate reaction vessel and treating them at 150 to 200° C. for about several hours to ten hours in the presence or absence of an acid, alkali, or metal catalyst in an organic solvent and/or gas which is inactive to the esterification reaction, while removing by-product water. Since unreacted materials may remain after the completion of the reaction, the unreacted materials are separated and removed by water washing, alkaline deacidification, and a known process, for example, treatment with an adsorbent such as silica gel for purification of the reaction product, and then the reaction product is subjected to bleaching and deodorization.
  • The ester oil of the ingredient (d) may be a commercially available one such as “Cosmol 222” (containing diisostearyl malate) manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd. or “Cosmol 43V” (containing polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate) manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.
  • The content of the ingredient (d) is not especially limited, but is preferably 70% by mass or less, more preferably 30 to 70% by mass, more preferably 34 to 70% by mass, more preferably 40 to 70% by mass, more preferably 45 to 70% by mass, more preferably 45 to 65% by mass, and most preferably 45 to 60% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic. By controlling the content of the ingredient (d) within the above-mentioned range, the lip cosmetic can be given in a uniform gel form, and makeup can be kept for longer time.
  • Next, the oily gelling agent of the ingredient (e) will be described. Any oily gelling agent which can be dissolved in the ester oil used as the ingredient (d) and can thicken or gelate the ester oil at 25° C. can be used. By blending the oily gelling agent of the ingredient (e) to a lip cosmetic, the lip cosmetic can obtain a film-forming ability and be prevented from coming off from lips.
  • Examples of such oily gelling agents include glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate) (an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and glycerin), dextrin fatty acid esters, 12-hydroxystearic acid, fumy silica, sucrose fatty acid esters, metallic soap, and organic modified clay minerals. The ingredient (e) may be used alone or in a combination of two or more thereof.
  • For example, when the oily gelling agent is an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and glycerin, the oligomer can be produced as an esterified product of these materials. The esterification reaction can be performed as in the ingredient (a).
  • The thus obtained oligomer is a mixture of glycerin, behenic acid, and encosane diacid esterified in a net-like form and has a melting point of about 50 to 80° C.
  • The oligomer of the ingredient (e) may be a commercially available one such as “Nomcort HK-G” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.
  • The content of the ingredient (e) is determined depending on types of the ester oil and the oily gelling agent and is not especially limited in the range that the oily gelling agent can be dissolved in the ester oil used and thicken or gelate the ester oil at 25° C. In general, the content is preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by mass, and most preferably 1 to 5% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
  • In the lip cosmetic according to the present invention, the mass ratio ((a+b+c):(d+e)) of the total mass (a+b+c) of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c) and the total mass (d+e) of the ingredients (d) and (e) is not especially limited, but is preferably 8:2 to 3:7, more preferably 3:1 to 3:7, more preferably 2:1 to 3:7, and most preferably 5:5 to 3.7.
  • The lip cosmetic of the present invention is in a gel form as described above, and by controlling the mass ratio ((a+b+c):(d+e)) of the total mass (a+b+c) of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c) and the total mass (d+e) of the ingredients (d) and (e) within the above-mentioned range, the lip cosmetic can be given in a uniform gel form, and the effects such as moisturizing properties can be further improved.
  • The lip cosmetic according to the present invention may contain a coloring agent and can be used as lip rouge when containing such a coloring agent. Examples of the coloring agent include various inorganic and organic pigments such as β-carotene, iron sesquioxide, Red Nos. 2, 3, 40, 102, 104, 105, 106, 201, and 202, Yellow Nos. 4 and 5, Green No. 3, Blue Nos. 1 and 2, sodium iron chlorophylline, potassium norbixin, sodium norbixin, sodium copper chlorophylline, copper chlorophyll, titanium dioxide, xanthin, annatto pigments, alkanet dyes, aluminum, sweet potato carotene, turmeric oleoresin, shrimp color, krill color, orange color, cacao color, cacao carbon black, Japanese persimmon color, crayfish color, caramel I, caramel II, caramel III, caramel IV, carob germ color, fish scale foil, gold, silver, kusagi color, gardenia color, kooroo color, kaoliang color, cochineal color, bone carbon black, bamboo grass color, shea nut color, shikon color, sandalwood red, vegetable carbon black, sappan color, onion color, tamarind color, dunaliella carotene, paprika color, corn color, tomato color, carrot carotene, palm oil carotene, beet red, peanut color, phaffia color, grape skin color, pecan nut color, monascus color, annatto color, carthamus color, haematococcus color, marigold color, purple corn color, purple yam color, vegetable oil soot color, lac color, logwood color, red cabbage color (purple cabbage color), red rice color, red radish color, azuki color, sepia color, uguisukagura color, turmeric, elderberry juice, cowberry color, gooseberry color, cranberry color, saffron color, salmonberry color, beefsteak plant color, strawberry color, daidai extract, dark sweet cherry color, cherry color, chicory color, tea, thimbleberry color, dewberry color, laver color, hibiscus color, huckleberry color, grape juice color, black currant color, black berry color, plum color, blueberry color, boysenberry color, hop extract, whortleberry color, mulberry color, morello cherry color, mugwort extract, raspberry color, red currant color, loganberry color, and aluminum lake. The coloring agent may be used alone or in a combination of two or more thereof.
  • The lip cosmetic according to the present invention may contain a branched hydrocarbon. A lip cosmetic containing a branched hydrocarbon can have improved gloss and adhesive properties and also can have reduced cost. Examples of the branched hydrocarbon include isoparaffinic hydrocarbons, squalane, squalene, pristane, and α-olefin oligomers. The isoparaffinic hydrocarbons contain isobutylene as a polymer component, and examples thereof include polybutene (polybutylene), light isoparaffin, light liquid isoparaffin (isoparaffin), heavy liquid isoparaffin (hydrogenated polyisobutene), polyisobutylene (butyl-rubber), and liquid isoparaffin (liquid polyisoparaffin, hydrogenated polyisobutylene). These hydrocarbons may be purified by distillation before use. Among these examples, colorless liquid hydrocarbons are preferred. In view of giving gloss, isoparaffinic hydrocarbons are preferred, and polybutene and heavy liquid isoparaffin (hydrogenated polyisobutene) are particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred that the branched hydrocarbon used has an average molecular weight of 500 to 2700. The branched hydrocarbons having such molecular weights are preferred in view of giving gloss. By containing a branched hydrocarbon having an average molecular weight in the above-mentioned range, the lip cosmetic can obtain a surface which gives comfortable touching feeling. In view of treatment in manufacturing lip cosmetics, branched hydrocarbons having average molecular weights of 800 to 1500 are further preferred.
  • The content of the branched hydrocarbon in a lip cosmetic according to the present invention is not especially limited, but is preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 2 to 15% by mass, and most preferably 5 to 12% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic. By controlling the content of the branched hydrocarbon within the above-mentioned range, the lip cosmetic can be given in a uniform gel form. The total amount of the branched hydrocarbon and the ingredient (d) is preferably 70% by mass or less, more preferably 30 to 70% by mass, more preferably 40 to 70% by mass, more preferably 50 to 70% by mass, and most preferably 55 to 70% by mass on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic. By controlling the total amount of the branched hydrocarbon and the ingredient (d) within the above-mentioned range, the lip cosmetic can be given in a uniform gel form.
  • The lip cosmetic of the present invention may further contain a perfume, an ultraviolet absorber, an antiphlogistic agent, an antiinflammatory agent, a preservative, vitamins, a fungicide, an antioxidant, a sequestering agent, a lubricant, a pH-adjuster, a flavoring, or a deodorant in the ranges that do not impair the above-described effects.
  • The lip cosmetic of the present invention is used as jar or stick lip rouge, lip balm, or lip gloss.
  • The lip cosmetic of the present invention may be produced by any process, for example, as follows:
  • The ingredients (a), (b), and (c) are mixed, and the resulting mixture solution is stirred at 70 to 80° C. to dissolve the ingredients (in this Description, this mixture solution containing the ingredients (a), (b), and (c) is referred to as “polyol phase”). At the same time, the ingredients (d) and (e) are stirred at 70 to 80° C. to dissolve the ingredients. The resulting mixture (in this Description, this mixture solution containing the ingredients (d) and (e) is referred to as “oil phase”) is gradually added to the mixture solution containing the ingredients (a), (b), and (c) under stirring. Then, the resulting solution is cooled to about 50° C., and a dye or other additives are added thereto, according to need. The resulting mixture is cooled to room temperature to obtain a lip cosmetic of the present invention. Alternatively, the mixture solution may be poured into an appropriate container before the cooling and be cooled in the container to prepare a lip cosmetic.
    • EXAMPLES
  • The present invention will now be described in further detail with reference to examples, but is not limited to such examples. In the following examples, the terms part(s) and % denote part(s) by mass and % by mass, respectively, unless otherwise specified.
  • In the examples, lip cosmetics were evaluated as follows:
    • (1) Appearance
  • Lip cosmetics were observed by the naked eye and evaluated according to the following criteria:
  • O: having uniform appearance and being in a gel or solidified form,
  • X: having nonuniform appearance, being in a liquid form, or exhibiting separation.
    • (2) Application
  • Ten monitors used the lip cosmetics and evaluated them according to the following evaluation criteria. The results are shown as average of evaluation by the ten monitors.
  • O: being smoothly applied on lips without any problem,
  • X: being too hard or too soft and having difficulty in applying the lip cosmetic on lips.
    • (3) Makeup Lasting Quality
  • Ten monitors used the lip cosmetics and evaluated conditions three hours later according to the following evaluation criteria. The results are shown as average of evaluation by the ten monitors.
  • O: no color fading was observed by the naked eye 3 hours after the application,
  • X: color fading was observed by the naked eye 3 hours after the application.
    • (4) Prevention of Chapping of Lips
  • Ten monitors used the lip cosmetics for one week and evaluated conditions after one week according to the following evaluation criteria. The results are shown as average of evaluation by the ten monitors.
  • O: no chapping or peeling of lip skin was observed after successive application for one week,
  • X: chapping or peeling of lip skin was observed after successive application for one week. p0 (5) Gloss
  • Ten monitors used and evaluated the lip cosmetics according to the following evaluation criteria. The results are shown as average of evaluation by the ten monitors.
  • O: gloss was obtained by the application on lips,
  • X: gloss was not obtained by the application on lips.
    • Examples 1 to 3
  • Lip cosmetics having the formulae shown in Table 1 were produced. First, the ingredients of the oil phase were weighed in a beaker at the ratio shown in Table 1 to prepare a mixture solution. This mixture solution was heated to 70° C. The unit of numerals in Table 1 is %.
  • At the same time, the ingredients of the polyol phase were weighed in a beaker, and the resulting mixture solution was heated to 70° C. as in the oil phase. Then, the heated polyol phase was gradually added to the oil phase over 20 min under propeller stirring at 1000 rpm. After the completion of the addition, the mixture was further stirred for 5 min. Then, the mixture was poured into a jar container and was cooled to room temperature to obtain a lip cosmetic in a gel form. The resulting lip cosmetic was subjected to the above-described evaluation. Table 2 shows the evaluation results.
  • TABLE 1
    Exam- Exam- Exam-
    Ingredient ple 1 ple 2 ple 3
    Polyol phase Polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/ 2 4 8
    eicosadioate)
    Water 3 5 7
    Glycerin 25 20 15
    Diglycerin 0 8 10
    1,3-Butylene glycol 0 3 10
    Oil phase Glyceryl (behenate/ 3 3 3
    eicosadioate)
    Hydrogenated polyisobutene 10 0 12
    Diisostearyl malate 56 56 34
    Red No. 104 1 1 1
    Total 100 100 160
    Polyol phase:Oil phase (mass ratio) 3:7 4:6 5:5
    Ratio (% by mass) of the amount of 6.7 10.0 16.0
    polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate)
    to the polyol phase
  • In Table 1, Polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate) was “Nomcort HK-P” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd., glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate) was “Nomcort HK-G” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd., diisostearyl malate was “Cosmol 222” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd., and hydrogenated polyisobutene was “ParLeam 18” manufactured by NOF Corp.
  • TABLE 2
    Evaluation item Example 1 Example 2 Example 3
    Appearance ◯ ◯ ◯
    Ease of application ◯ ◯ ◯
    Makeup lasting ability ◯ ◯ ◯
    Lip chapping prevention ◯ ◯ ◯
    Gloss ◯ ◯ ◯
  • The evaluation results shown in Table 2 show that the lip cosmetics prepared in Examples 1 to 3 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria. Furthermore, the lip cosmetics containing glyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate) at a ratio to the polyol phase of 16% by mass or less satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria.
    • Examples 4 to 6
  • Lip cosmetics were produced by the same procedure as that in Examples 1 to 3, except that the formulae were those shown in Table 3. In Table 3, polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate), glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate), diisostearyl malate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene were the same as those in Examples 1 to 3. The resulting lip cosmetics were subjected to the above-described evaluation. Table 4 shows the evaluation results.
  • TABLE 3
    Exam- Exam- Exam-
    Raw material ple 4 ple 5 ple 6
    Polyol phase Polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/ 4 4 4
    eicosadioate)
    Water 2 5 10
    Glycerin 20 20 20
    Diglycerin 7 7 6
    1,3-Butylene glycol 7 4 0
    Oil phase Glyceryl (behenate/ 3 3 3
    eicosadioate)
    Hydrogenated polyisobutene 10 10 10
    Castor oil 10 10 10
    Diisostearyl malate 36 36 36
    Yellow No. 4 0.5 0.5 0.5
    Red No. 104 0.5 0.5 0.5
    Total 100 100 100
    Polyol phase:Oil phase (mass ratio) 4:6 4:6 4:6
    Ratio (% by mass) of the amount of 10.0 10.0 10.0
    polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate)
    to the polyol phase
  • TABLE 4
    Evaluation item Example 4 Example 5 Example 6
    Appearance ◯ ◯ ◯
    Ease of application ◯ ◯ ◯
    Makeup-lasting ability ◯ ◯ ◯
    Lip chapping prevention ◯ ◯ ◯
    Gloss ◯ ◯ ◯
  • The evaluation results shown in Table 4 show that the lip cosmetics prepared in Examples 4 to 6 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria. Furthermore, the lip cosmetics containing water in the range of 2 to 10% by mass satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria.
  • Examples 7 to 9 and Comparative Example 1
  • Lip cosmetics were produced by the same procedure as that in Examples 1 to 3, except that the formulae were those shown in Table 5. In Table 5, polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate), glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate), diisostearyl malate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene were the same as those in Examples 1 to 3, and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate was “Salacos 5418V” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd. The resulting lip cosmetics were subjected to the above-described evaluation. Table 6 shows the evaluation results.
  • TABLE 5
    Comparative
    Raw material Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 1
    Polyol phase Polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate) 4 4 4 4
    Water 5 5 5 5
    Glycerin 20 20 20 20
    Diglycerin 7 7 7 7
    1,3-Butylene glycol 4 4 4 4
    Oil phase Glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate) 1 3 5 0
    Hydrogenated polyisobutene 10 10 10 10
    Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 10 10 10 10
    Diisostearyl malate 38.5 36.5 34.5 39.5
    Red No. 202 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
    Total 100 100 100 100
    Polyol phase:Oil phase (mass ratio) 4:6 4:6 4:6 4:6
    Ratio (% by mass) of the amount of polyglyceryl-10 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0
    (behenate/eicosadioate) to the polyol phase
  • TABLE 6
    Comparative
    Evaluation item Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 1
    Appearance ◯ ◯ ◯ ◯
    Ease of application ◯ ◯ ◯ ◯
    Makeup-lasting ◯ ◯ ◯ X
    ability
    Lip chapping ◯ ◯ ◯ ◯
    prevention
    Gloss ◯ ◯ ◯ ◯
  • The evaluation results shown in Table 6 show that the lip cosmetic of Comparative Example 1, which does not contain glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate) (ingredient (e)), is inferior in makeup-lasting ability. On the other hand, the lip cosmetics prepared in Examples 7 to 9 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria. Furthermore, the lip cosmetics containing the oily gelling agent in the range of 1 to 5% by mass satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria.
    • Examples 10 to 12
  • Lip cosmetics were produced by the same procedure as that in Examples 1 to 3, except that the formulae were those shown in Table 7. In Table 7, polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate), glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate), diisostearyl malate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene were the same as those in Examples 1 to 3, and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate was “Salacos 5418V” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd. The resulting lip cosmetics were subjected to the above-described evaluation. Table 8 shows the evaluation results.
  • TABLE 7
    Exam- Exam- Exam-
    Raw material ple 10 ple 11 ple 12
    Polyol phase Polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/ 3 4 5
    eicosadioate)
    Water 5 5 5
    Glycerin 20 20 28
    Sorbitol 0 7 7
    1,3-Butylene glycol 2 4 5
    Oil phase Glyceryl (behenate/ 1 3 5
    eicosadioate)
    Hydrogenated polyisobutene 10 10 10
    Pentaerythrityl 0 10 10
    tetraisostearate
    Diisostearyl malate 58.7 36.7 24.7
    Red No. 201 0.3 0.3 0.3
    Total 100 100 100
    Polyol phase:Oil phase (mass ratio) 3:7 4:6 5:5
    Ratio (% by mass) of the amount of 10.0 10.0 10.0
    polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate)
    to the polyol phase
  • TABLE 8
    Evaluation item Example 10 Example 11 Example 12
    Appearance ◯ ◯ ◯
    Ease of application ◯ ◯ ◯
    Makeup-lasting ability ◯ ◯ ◯
    Lip chapping prevention ◯ ◯ ◯
    Gloss ◯ ◯ ◯
  • The evaluation results shown in Table 8 show that the lip cosmetics prepared in Examples 10 to 12 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria. Furthermore, the lip cosmetics containing the polyol phase and the oil phase at the mass ratio range of 3:7 to 5:5 satisfy all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria.
    • Example 13 and Comparative Example 2
  • Lip cosmetics were produced by the same procedure as that in Examples 1 to 3, except that the formulae were those shown in Table 9. The lip cosmetic in Comparative Example 2 exhibited separation and was not obtained in a uniform gel form. Therefore, it was not subjected to the evaluation.
  • In Table 9, polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate), glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate), diisostearyl malate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene were the same as those in Examples 1 to 3, and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate was “Cosmol 43V” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd. and diisostearyl malate was “Cosmol 222” manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd. The resulting lip cosmetics were subjected to the above-described evaluation. Table 10 shows the evaluation results.
  • TABLE 9
    Comparative
    Raw material Example 13 Example 2
    Polyol phase Polyglyceryl-10 4 4
    (behenate/eicosadioate)
    Water 5 5
    Glycerin 24 24
    Diglycerin 7 7
    Oil phase Glyceryl (behenate/ 3 3
    eicosadioate)
    Hydrogenated 10 56
    polyisobutene
    Polyglyceryl-2 46 0
    triisostearate
    Diisostearyl malate 0 0
    Red No. 104 1 1
    Total 100 100
    Polyol phase:Oil phase (mass ratio) 4:6 4:6
    Ratio (% by mass) of the amount of 10.0 10.0
    polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate)
    to the polyol phase
  • TABLE 10
    Comparative
    Evaluation item Example 13 Example 2
    Appearance ◯ —
    Ease of application ◯ —
    Makeup-lasting ability ◯ —
    Lip chapping prevention ◯ —
    Gloss ◯ —
  • The evaluation results shown in Table 10 show that the lip cosmetic produced in Examples 13 satisfies all the above-mentioned evaluation criteria. However, the lip cosmetic of Comparative Example 2, which does not contain the ester oil of the ingredient (d), exhibits separation and is not given in a uniform gel form. Therefore, it is confirmed that the ester oil in the ingredient (d) is an essential ingredient of the lip cosmetic according to the present invention.

Claims (16)

1. A lip cosmetic comprising the following ingredients (a), (b), (c), (d), and (e):
(a) an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and a glycerin condensate;
(b) a polyol;
(c) water;
(d) an ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and being in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature; and
(e) an oily gelling agent.
2. The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio ((a+b+c):(d+e)) of the total mass (a+b+c) of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c) and the total mass (d+e) of the ingredients (d) and (e) is 8:2 to 3:7.
3. The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the ingredient (a) is 20% by mass or less on the basis of the total mass of the ingredients (a), (b), and (c).
4. The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the ingredient (c) is 10% by mass or less on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
5. The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the ingredient (d) is 70% by mass or less on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
6. The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the ingredient (e) is 10% by mass or less on the basis of the total mass of the lip cosmetic.
7. The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the ingredient (e) is an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and glycerin.
8. The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the lip cosmetic contains a branched hydrocarbon.
9. The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the lip cosmetic contains a dye.
10. The lip cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the lip cosmetic contains a dye.
11. The lip cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein the lip cosmetic contains a dye.
12. The lip cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the lip cosmetic contains a dye.
13. The lip cosmetic according to claim 5, wherein the lip cosmetic contains a dye.
14. The lip cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the lip cosmetic contains a dye.
15. The lip cosmetic according to claim 7, wherein the lip cosmetic contains a dye.
16. The lip cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the lip cosmetic contains a dye.
US11/883,089 2005-01-28 2006-01-26 Lip Cosmetics Abandoned US20090123402A1 (en)

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