Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
  • D06P3/854—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres containing modified or unmodified fibres, i.e. containing the same type of fibres having different characteristics, e.g. twisted and not-twisted fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
  • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
  • D06P3/8223—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
  • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
  • D06P3/828—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl groups
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
  • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
  • D06P3/829—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of cellulose and animalized fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
  • D06P5/22—Effecting variation of dye affinity on textile material by chemical means that react with the fibre
  • D06P5/225—Aminalization of cellulose; introducing aminogroups into cellulose

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a process for dyeing a mixture of two or more different fibre types as well as fibre blends.
• the object of the present invention is to provide a process for dyeing a mixture of two or more different fibre types with one or more dyes, by means of which process the disadvantages discussed above can be overcome.
• the object of the present invention is to provide a process for dyeing a mixture of two or more different fibre types with one or more dyes, by means of which process those disadvantages can be overcome.
• Cationized cellulose fibres are known per se. Fibres which incorporate the cationic groups are particularly preferred for use in the process according to the invention. Such fibres are manufactured in that a cationizing agent which is stable in the respective manufacturing process is added to the spinning dope for producing the fibre or to a precursor of said spinning dope.
• cationized cellulose fibres exhibit particular colouring properties which differ from those of non-cationized cellulose fibres.
• Cationized viscose fibres i.e. fibres which were produced by the viscose process and which carry cationic groups, are particularly preferred for use in the process according to the invention.
• the mixture contains a portion of non-cationized cellulosic fibres.
• the non-cationized cellulosic fibres may be selected from the group consisting of standard viscose fibres, modal fibres, Lyocell fibres, cotton fibres and linen fibres.
• the process according to the invention can be realized effectively in that the mixture is dyed with a direct dye and/or a reactive dye.
• Cationized cellulose fibres in particular cationized viscose fibres, are coloured more intensely by direct dyes and reactive dyes than non-cationized cellulose fibres.
• the achievable mixed-colour effect thereby depends particularly strongly on the salt concentration used for dyeing (less strongly on the pH value and the temperature of dyeing).
• the concentration of the dye in the batch also plays a role, with the difference in colour depth between the fibres decreasing, the greater the dye concentration.
• the mixed-colour effect is particularly pronounced at low salt concentrations of 3 to 5 dl.
• higher salt concentrations of up to 25 dl on the other hand, almost equal colour depths of the cationized and the non-cationized cellulose fibres are achieved.
• the mixed-colour effect is particularly pronounced at salt concentrations of up to 20 g/l.
• salt concentrations of up to 80 g/l At higher salt concentrations of up to 80 g/l, almost equal colour depths of the cationized and the non-cationized cellulose fibres are achieved.
• the mixed-colour effect is more strongly pronounced if modal fibres or cotton fibres are used as non-cationized cellulosic fibres than if standard viscose fibres or Lyocell fibres are used.
• Another aspect of the process according to the invention is characterized in that the mixture is dyed with a wool dye and at least one other dye, in particular a direct dye and/or a reactive dye. Also in this embodiment, the use of a fibre blend containing cationized cellulose fibres and non-cationized cellulose fibres is particularly suitable.
• the non-cationized cellulose fibres in a mixture of cationized cellulose fibres and noncationized cellulose fibres virtually fail to be coloured by the wool dye
• the cationized cellulose fibres are coloured by the wool dye.
• the non-cationized cellulose fibres are coloured by the second dye that is used (preferably a direct dye or a reactive dye) at appropriate dyeing conditions.
• Said second dye optionally also colours the cationized cellulose fibre at least partially.
• a mixed colouring between cationized and non-cationized cellulose fibres is created.
• a mixed colour is optionally also created in the cationized cellulose fibres itself as a result of dyeing with the wool dye and the competing dyeing process involving the second dye.
• Lyocell fibres as the non-cationized cellulosic fibres in the mixture has proven favourable, since those fibres are stained the least by the metallized dye.
• the fibre blend contains a portion of non-cellulosic fibres.
• polyester fibres (PES) or polyamide fibres (PA) appear to be interesting for different applications.
• PA polyamide fibres
• the duration of the dyeing process can be drastically reduced if a mixture of cationized cellulose fibres and polyester fibres is dyed with reactive dyes under the conditions of reactive dyeing.
• Wool dyes is dyed is no dyed is dyed is not dyed (metallized dyes) completely completely completely Direct dyes is dyed is dyed from slightly is dyed is dyed from slightly completely to completely completely to not at all depending on the depending on the salt concentration salt concentration Reactive dyes is dyed is dyed from moderately is dyed is dyed from slightly completely to completely completely to not at all depending on the depending on the salt concentration salt concentration Behaviour during cationized polyamide cationized polyamide competing dyeings of cellulose cellulose cationized cellulose and polyamide pH value 4 to 6 4 to 6 9 to 11 9 to 11 Wool dyes is dyed from is dyed is dyed is dyed from (metallized dyes) slightly to completely completely slightly to not at all not at all
• the table shows in particular that, in case of mixtures of cationized and non-cationized cellulose fibres, there are differences in the colouring behaviour above and below a dyeing temperature of 100° C.
• the fibre blend may be dyed in the form of a yarn or a part of a yarn, respectively, or in the form of a textile or a part of a textile, respectively.
• the fibre blend is dyed in the form of a fabric so as to achieve a denim effect.
• the indigo effect desireable for jeans fabrics is achieved by an indigo dyeing process.
• an elaborate multistage process is necessary.
• a warp-dyeing process must be carried out, i.e. it is not feasible to dye finished cloths.
• the invention relates to a fibre blend obtainable in accordance with the process according to the invention.
• the invention relates in particular to a fibre blend containing a portion of cationized cellulosic fibres and a portion of non-cationized cellulosic fibres, which fibre blend is characterized in that the portion of cationized cellulosic fibres and the portion of non-cationized cellulosic fibres are coloured with the same direct dye and/or a reactive dye and that there is a difference in the colouring intensity between the portion of cationized cellulosic fibres and the portion of non-cationized fibres.
• Said embodiment of the fibre blend according to the invention is preferably characterized in that the difference in the colouring intensity between the cationized cellulosic fibres and the non-cationized fibres amounts to 5 to 50 CIELAB units according to the measuring method as indicated below.
• Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a fibre blend containing a portion of cationized cellulosic fibres and a portion of non-cationized cellulosic fibres, which fibre blend is characterized in that the portion of cationized cellulosic fibres is coloured with a wool dye and optionally at least partially with another dye, in particular a direct dye and/or a reactive dye, whereas the portion of non-cationized fibres is coloured only by said other dye.
• another dye in particular a direct dye and/or a reactive dye
• Fibres from the group consisting of standard viscose fibres, modal fibres, Lyocell fibres, cotton fibres and linen fibres can be included as non-cationized cellulosic fibres.
• the cationized cellulosic fibres preferably incorporate the cationic groups.
• the cationized cellulosic fibres are cationized viscose fibres.
• the fibre blends according to the invention preferably contain a portion of non-cellulosic fibres such as polyester fibres or polyamide fibres.
• a particularly preferred embodiment of the fibre blend according to the invention is provided in the form of a denim fabric.
• the CIELAB whiteness of the fibres was determined according to the following method:
• non-cationized cellulose fibres (Lyocell or modal, respectively) were coloured virtually exclusively with the direct dye; in addition, the cationized viscose fibres were coloured with the metallized dye, whereby - depending on the colour and concentration of the dyes that were used - mixed colourings controllable in wide areas emerged in the cationic fibres.
• Striped socks (alternately 1 cm of cationized viscose fibres and 1 cm of Lyocell fibres) were manufactured and dyed with the following dye mixtures:
• the dyed striped socks exhibited striped areas with markedly different colourings.
• the sections of the Lyocell fibres were each dyed yellow; the sections of the cationized viscose fibres each exhibited a green mixed colour (from the yellow direct dye and the blue wool dye).
• the sections of the Lyocell fibres were also each dyed yellow; the sections of the cationized viscose fibres each exhibited an orangelreddish mixed colom (from the yellow direct dye and the red wool dye).
• a knitted fabric made of a twisted yarn—containing cationized viscose fibres and cotton fibres at a ratio of 50150—and a PES filament was dyed in a bath first under the dyeing conditions for PES fibres (i.e. at 130° C.) with a dye complex consisting of a metallized dye and a disperse dye and subsequently at 90° C. with a direct dye at a salt concentration of 7 g/l of salt.
• the procedure of dyeing can be illustrated as follows:
• a black disperse dye (Dianix Schwarz CC, manufacturer Messrs. DyStar) was selected as the disperse dye for the PES fibres.
• a fabric consisting of a mixture of cationized viscose fibres and PES fibres (60140) in the warp and cotton fibres in the woof was dyed, such as described in example 4, first under the dyeing conditions for PES fibres with a dye mixture from a disperse dye and a metallized dye.
• the monobath, approximately one-hour long competing dyeing process described above can be regarded as an interesting alternative to the laborious and technically demanding indigo dyeing process.
• the dyeing processes according to the invention for producing a denim effect offer an outstandingly good flexibility, since no previous warp dyeing is necessary and hence a quick and efficient adjustment to the market becomes possible.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Husbandry (AREA)
• Coloring (AREA)

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Citations (9)

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• 2003
  • 2003-03-13 AT AT0040003A patent/AT413825B/de not_active IP Right Cessation
• 2004
  • 2004-03-10 TW TW093106337A patent/TW200427896A/zh unknown
  • 2004-03-11 WO PCT/AT2004/000084 patent/WO2004081279A1/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2004-03-11 EP EP04719330A patent/EP1601831A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
  • 2004-03-11 TR TR2005/03591T patent/TR200503591T1/xx unknown
  • 2004-03-11 CN CNB2004800067773A patent/CN100346029C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2005
  • 2005-09-02 US US11/218,364 patent/US20060085926A1/en not_active Abandoned

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