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US20050022563A1 - Yarn having differentiated shrinkage segments and fabrics formed therefrom - Google Patents

Yarn having differentiated shrinkage segments and fabrics formed therefrom Download PDF

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Publication number
US20050022563A1
US20050022563A1 US10/883,932 US88393204A US2005022563A1 US 20050022563 A1 US20050022563 A1 US 20050022563A1 US 88393204 A US88393204 A US 88393204A US 2005022563 A1 US2005022563 A1 US 2005022563A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
segments
group
filaments
cut
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Abandoned
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US10/883,932
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English (en)
Inventor
Michael Keller
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Milliken and Co
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Milliken and Co
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Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US10/613,241 external-priority patent/US20050003142A1/en
Priority claimed from US10/613,240 external-priority patent/US6832419B1/en
Priority claimed from US10/835,773 external-priority patent/US20050003184A1/en
Application filed by Milliken and Co filed Critical Milliken and Co
Priority to US10/883,932 priority Critical patent/US20050022563A1/en
Priority to PCT/US2004/021343 priority patent/WO2005007950A2/fr
Assigned to MILLIKEN & COMPANY reassignment MILLIKEN & COMPANY ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: KELLER, MICHAEL A.
Publication of US20050022563A1 publication Critical patent/US20050022563A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B21/04Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates generally to fabric formation yarns and more particularly to multifilament yarns in which discrete segments along the length undergo enhanced selective shrinkage resulting in self texturing and reduced crystalline orientation relative to other portions of the same yarn.
  • the present invention also relates to various fabrics formed with the multifilament yarns having discrete segments of differing shrinkage.
  • the present invention provides advantages and alternatives over the known art by providing a fabric formation yarn having variable shrink characteristics at different segments (also referred to as zones) along its length such that when such yarn is subsequently subjected to heat such as in fabric finishing treatments, discrete portions of the yarn undergo selective shrinkage and self texturing.
  • the shrinking of segments along the yarn yields unshrunken yarn segments of substantially parallel, oriented fibers in combination with shrunken yarn segments of self textured filaments with reduced crystalline orientation in the same yarn.
  • the present invention incorporates the yarn having differentiated segment shrink characteristics into a knit fabric so that when the fabric is subjected to a heat treatment, such as heated finishing and/or dyeing at elevated temperature, discrete portions of the yarn shrink preferentially thereby tightening up sections of the looped underlaps. This tightening causes the portions of the yarn which do not shrink to become raised in the fabric face.
  • the shrinking of segments along the surface-forming yarn yields substantially random arrangements of unshrunken yarn segments of substantially parallel fibers in combination with shrunken yarn segments of self textured filaments with reduced crystalline orientation in the same yarn.
  • the resultant fabric has an irregular surface appearance and surface texture.
  • the present invention utilizes the yarn having differentiated segment shrink characteristics as the loop pile yarns in a loop pile fabric and the cut pile yarns in a cut pile fabric.
  • the pile yarn has variable shrink characteristics at different zones along its length such that when the pile-forming yarn is introduced into a loop pile fabric and is thereafter subjected to heated finishing treatments, discrete portions of the yarn shrink towards the base of the fabric.
  • the shrinking of zones along the pile-forming yarn towards the fabric base yields substantially random arrangements of unshrunken high pile zones in combination with shrunken lower pile zones of self textured crimped filaments with reduced crystalline orientation in the same yarn.
  • the resultant fabric has an irregular pebble appearance.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates schematically a practice for hot drawing a multi-filament yarn to impart variable shrink characteristics at zones along the length of such yarn
  • FIG. 2 illustrates a partially oriented non-textured multi-filament yarn prior to hot drawing
  • FIG. 3 is a graphical representation illustrating the cross-sectional profile of yarn filaments at different zones along the length of the yarn of FIG. 3 during hot drawing;
  • FIG. 4A is a photomicrograph of fiber cross-sections in low shrink portions of a formation yarn according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 4B is a photomicrograph of fiber cross-sections in high shrink portions of a formation yarn according to the present invention at the same magnification as FIG. 9 ;
  • FIG. 5 is a photomicrograph of a circular knit sock illustrating variable shrinkage segments of a fabric formation yarn
  • FIGS. 6A and 6B are x-ray diffraction patterns for high shrink and low shrink portions of a formation yarn respectively;
  • FIGS. 7A and 7B are angular distribution plots of select diffraction peaks for high shrink and low shrink portions of a formation yarn respectively;
  • FIG. 8 is a block diagram setting forth steps for forming a variable surface texture fabric
  • FIG. 9 illustrates a surface view of a representative prior art flat knit fabric of uniform surface character
  • FIG. 10 illustrates a knit fabric of construction similar to FIG. 9 , incorporating the surface forming yarn with variable shrinkage zones following hot drawing and post formation heat treatment wherein zones of the surface forming yarn have undergone selective shrinkage and self texturing;
  • FIG. 11 illustrates a cut-away cross-section of a typical prior art loop pile fabric
  • FIG. 12 illustrates a loop pile fabric incorporating the pile-forming yarn following hot drawing and post formation heat treatment wherein zones of the pile-forming yarn have undergone shrinkage towards the base of the fabric;
  • FIG. 13 is a photomicrograph of an exemplary loop-pile fabric according to the present invention incorporating high loops of unshrunken character and lower loops which have undergone heat shrinking;
  • FIG. 14 illustrates a cut-away cross-section of a typical prior art cut pile fabric
  • FIG. 15 illustrates a cut pile fabric incorporating the pile-forming yarn following hot drawing and post formation heat treatment wherein zones of the pile-forming yarn have undergone shrinkage towards the base of the fabric;
  • FIG. 16 is a photomicrograph of an exemplary cut-pile fabric according to the present invention incorporating high loops of unshrunken character and lower pile yarns which have undergone heat shrinking.
  • a yarn sheet 30 formed from a plurality of yarns 100 is passed from a creel 31 through a drawing apparatus 32 to a take-up 33 .
  • the yarns 100 are so called “partially oriented yarns” of multi-filament construction wherein the filaments 101 ( FIG. 2 ) have been interlaced at discrete zones along the length of the yarn.
  • the yarns are formed from a heat shrinkable material, such as a thermoplastic.
  • exemplary fiber materials may include polyester, polypropylene, nylon and combinations thereof.
  • the drawing apparatus 32 has a first draw zone 36 located between tensioning rolls 38 , 40 and a second draw zone 42 located between tensioning rolls 40 and 46 .
  • a contact heating plate 50 as will be well known to those of skill in the art engages the yarns 100 within the second draw zone 42 .
  • the partially oriented yarns 100 are passed through the first draw zone 36 with substantially no heating or drawing treatment.
  • the yarns 100 are substantially unaltered upon entering the second draw zone 42 .
  • the yarns 100 preferably undergo a relatively slight drawing elongation while simultaneously being subjected to a relatively low temperature heating procedure from the contact heater 50 .
  • the resultant yarn 100 ′ is not drawn to a condition of full orientation it is referred to as “underdrawn” yarn.
  • underdrawn it is meant that the fiber is still partially oriented and has a residual elongation of at least about 40%.
  • the resultant yarn 100 ′ of the present invention differs from a typical “underdrawn” yarn.
  • the yarn 100 is conveyed across the contact heater 50 at a high rate of speed such that the yarn does not reach a state of temperature equilibrium within the cross-section of the yarn at all segments along its length.
  • the resultant yarn 100 ′ has discrete segments along its length that have been heatset to a greater extent than other segments.
  • the segments of the resultant yarn 100 ′ that have a different extent of heat history will also have a different potential of shrinkage when heat is applied to the resultant yarn 100 ′.
  • the mechanism believed to be responsible for the non-uniform character of the resultant yarns 100 ′ is believed to relate to the nature of the partially oriented yarn 100 being processed as well as the process conditions.
  • FIG. 2 a representative illustration is provided of a partially oriented yarn (POY) 100 such as may be treated according to the practice described above.
  • the yarn 100 of partially oriented construction is characterized by loose segments 102 in which the individual filaments 101 are disposed in generally parallel aligned loose orientation relative to one another. These loose segments 102 are interspersed by discrete interlace nodes 103 in which the filaments are interlaced in a more compacted relation so as to hold the overall yarn 100 together.
  • the cross-sectional heat transfer characteristics of the loose segments 102 are believed to be substantially different from that of the interlace nodes 103 and the yarn portions immediately adjacent such nodes.
  • FIG. 3 a graphical illustration of the fiber cross-section is provided showing the relative response of the filaments 100 in the loose segments 102 and interlace nodes 103 of the yarn during heating under slight draw conditions as described above.
  • the filaments within the loose segments 103 are spread out closer to the heater by a combination of tensioning and heat shrinkage so as to assume a relatively low cross-sectional profile orientation across the contact heater 50 .
  • This low cross-sectional profile allows those zones to receive a substantially uniform and complete heat treatment despite the high speed of travel across the heater.
  • the relatively slight degree of draw applied is inadequate to pull out the interlace nodes 103 .
  • flattening and spreading of the filaments at the interlace nodes is avoided.
  • the yarn portions around the interlace nodes 103 retain a higher more concentrated profile across the heater 103 rather than flattening out like the loose segments 102 .
  • the number of interlace nodes will preferably be in the range of about 8 to 40 nodes per meter with each node taking up about 0.6 to about 1.3 cm.
  • zones of high retained shrinkage potential will preferably make up about 4.8% to about 52% percent of the total length of the yarn and will more preferably make up about 25% of the total length of the yarn.
  • the resultant yarn 100 ′ may then be formed into a fabric and heat treated to provide desired surface characteristics in the manner as will be described further hereinafter.
  • the resultant yarn 100 ′ may be subjected to heat treatment prior to introduction into a fabric if desired. In either case, particular discrete segments of the yarn 100 ′ undergo shrinkage and self-texturing during subsequent heating of the resultant yarn 100 ′′ while other segments along the same yarn experience little if any change.
  • the enhanced retained shrinkage potential of the resultant yarn 100 ′ at the interlace nodes relative to the intermediate loose zones following the treatment process as outlined above has been confirmed by cutting out segments of an exemplary 260 denier polyester yarn treated according to the procedure outlined above and thereafter subjecting those cut out segments to a uniform heat treatment and then measuring the level of shrinkage caused by the heat treatment.
  • a first group of two yarn segments was cut out from sections between interlace nodes such that each of the two cut out yarn segments in this first group was substantially devoid of any interlace node.
  • a second group of three yarn segments was cut out from the yarn such that each of the three cut out yarn segments in this second group was formed substantially of a single interlace node.
  • the yarn segments formed from the interlace nodes of the resultant yarn 100 ′ underwent an enhanced degree of bulking and self texturing when subjected to post treatment heating, resulting in substantial filament thickening in a significant portion of the filaments.
  • self texturing or “self-crimping” refers to the characteristic that the filaments have a crimped construction after shrinkage without the application of external crimping or texturizing procedures. It was also discovered that the shrinkage and self texturing of those sections of yarn caused the cross section in those sections of the yarn to enlarge.
  • FIGS. 4A and 4B photomicrographs are provided of filament cross sections in exemplary low shrink yarn portions ( FIG. 4A ) as well as in self textured high shrink yarn segments ( FIG. 4B ) after the resultant yarn 100 ′ has been subjected to a heat treatment. Because the magnification in FIGS. 4A and 4B is the same, and the cross section is from different sections of the post treatment resultant yarn, it can be seen that after post formation application of heat, the cross sections of the filaments in the low shrink segment are smaller than the cross sections of the filaments in the high shrink segment.
  • the filaments making up the self-textured segments will preferably have an average diameter at least about 25 percent greater (more preferably at least about 50 percent greater) than the average diameter of the filaments forming the low shrink portions after being subjected to a post treatment heating.
  • the high shrink segments will preferably have an average cross-sectional area at least about 1.56 times (more preferably at least about 2.25 times) the average area of the filaments forming the low shrink segments.
  • the diffraction pattern for the high-shrink yarn sample is shown in FIG. 6A and that for the low-shrink yarn is shown in FIG. 6B wherein the lighter zones identify higher reflection intensity levels.
  • the crystal plane reflections (the broad intensity peaks) in the high-shrink sample have a greater azimuthal spread than those in the low-shrink sample.
  • the two primary causes of azimuthal spreading in multifilament fiber samples are misalignment of individual filaments and differences in the angular distribution of crystallites between the samples.
  • Great care was taken during sample preparation to properly parallelize the filaments, and a slight tension was applied to maintain good orientation during handling and measurement.
  • filament disorientation alone can account for the differences in angular peak distribution observed in the patterns. Therefore, it was determined that the azimuthal spread reflects a real difference in the angular distribution of crystallites between the two samples.
  • the Herman orientation function is a measure of the orientation of PET chains within fiber crystallites with respect to the fiber axis direction. It assumes values ranging from +1 (perfectly oriented parallel to the axis) to 0 (perfectly random) to ⁇ fraction (1/2) ⁇ (perfectly oriented perpendicularly).
  • ⁇ cos 2 ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ 0 ⁇ ⁇ cos 2 ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ I P ⁇ ( ⁇ ) ⁇ sin ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ d ⁇ ⁇ 0 ⁇ ⁇ I P ⁇ ( ⁇ ) ⁇ sin ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ d ⁇ .
  • / p ( ⁇ ) is the angular distribution of a directional vector P (in this case, the PET chain direction) as measured with respect to a reference direction, in this case the fiber axis.
  • the ⁇ cos 2 ⁇ (hk0) > terms can be numerically computed by extracting the / (hk0) ( ⁇ ) distributions from the measured diffraction patterns. Angular distributions were computed by integrating the pattern signals over a 0.7° range of 2 ⁇ circle over (-) ⁇ values centered on the following positions: 17.65° for the (010) reflection, 22.75° for the ( 1 10) reflection, and 25.35° for the (100) reflection. Distributions of x-ray peaks for the high shrink and low shrink yarn segments (used for purposes of integration) are shown in FIGS. 7A and 7B . Because of the limited detector area, distributions were extrapolated out to the full 180° range by assuming the signal at high angles was due solely to amorphous scattering. This amorphous baseline was subtracted from the distributions before numerical integration.
  • the interlaced nodes along the yarn give rise to the high shrink portions of the yarn. Moreover, upon application of heat treatment these high shrink portions shrink to a greater degree and have a lower level of crystalline orientation (as measured by the Herman Orientation Function) than the low shrink portions. Moreover, the degree of variation in crystalline orientation along the length of the yarns of the present invention is substantially greater than variations in standard yarns.
  • FIG. 8 there is illustrated a block diagram of a procedure for forming a fabric from the resultant yarn 100 ′.
  • a POY yarn is purchased or made. Usually, this yarn has been spun to partially orient the fibers in the yarn, as shown in Step 181.
  • the POY yarn is underdrawn and simultaneously applied to a non-steady state rapid heat treatment to introduce variable heat history at different segments of the yarn as show and described above.
  • a fabric is formed from resultant yarn having segments of differing heat treatment.
  • the fabric is subjected to a heat treatment to cause selective shrinkage and self-texturing at discrete zones along the resultant yarn.
  • the heat treatment in Step 184 can come from the heat setting of the fabric, the dyeing of the fabric, or other typical fabric processing.
  • the resulting fabric has zones where the resultant yarn has shrunk and self textured, and zones where the resultant yarn did not shrink or self texture to the same extent. This often will give a fabric a surface textural, two-tone dyed appearance.
  • FIG. 9 there is illustrated a typical prior art flat knit fabric 200 such as may be formed in a warp knit construction with elongated underlaps as will be well known to those of skill in the art.
  • a face portion 201 of the fabric 200 is made up of a multiplicity of interconnected loops 202 formed from yarns 210 .
  • the face-forming yarns are made up of multiple discrete filaments 211 .
  • the yarns 210 in such prior art knit fabrics have typically undergone a hot drawing operation so as to impart a uniform heat treatment and extension to the filaments 211 prior to formation into the fabric 200 .
  • the yarns are fully drawn to approximately 1.7 times their initial length while being subjected to a temperature of about 200° C. prior to formation into a fabric construction.
  • This drawing and heat treatment imparts enhanced crystallite orientation to the entire length of the yarn while also providing a substantially uniform heat history such that the propensity to undergo further shrinkage is minimized and any shrinkage which does occur after the yarn is formed into a fabric will be substantially uniform.
  • the yarns forming the face portion 16 are of substantially uniform character upon initial formation and react in substantially the same manner when subjected to post-formation heat treatment such that uniform texture characteristics and filament alignment are maintained after the fabric is heat set and dyed.
  • the yarn resultant 100 ′ may thereafter be formed into a knit fabric similar in appearance to the knit fabric illustrated in FIG. 9 . That is, the formed greige fabric is characterized by face-forming loops which are substantially uniform in texture. However, as illustrated in FIG. 10 , due to the variable heat treatment history at segments along the face-forming yarns 100 ′, when the formed greige fabric is heat set and/or dyed at prolonged elevated temperatures, segments of the face-forming post treatment resultant yarn 100 ′′ react in dramatically different fashions thereby imparting a variability to the finished fabric 300 .
  • portions of the post treatment resultant yarns 100 ′′ which made up the interlace nodes 103 and adjacent areas and which did not undergo a uniform heat treatment during drawing tend to undergo selective shrinkage during the heat setting and/or dyeing operations, forming self textured loops 306 in the fabric 600 .
  • this shrinkage occurs as a result of the fact that the shrinkage potential within these yarn zones has not been relieved previously.
  • the portions 306 of the post treatment resultant yarns 100 ′′ which were in the loose portions 102 of the yarn between the interlace nodes 103 do not undergo substantial shrinking during the heat setting and/or dyeing operation since shrinkage potential has been relieved previously.
  • a single post treatment resultant yarn can form one, two, three, or more self textured loops between one, two, three, or more standard loops on each side.
  • the heating may be carried out as a heat treatment during finishing, as an elevated dyeing treatment or any such other suitable elevated temperature operation as may be desired.
  • the same yarns 100 ′ are utilized throughout the face portion 301 of the fabric 300 , discrete segments of those yarns have undergone shrinkage so as to form self textured entangled segments 306 across the fabric.
  • the segments of the yarns which have undergone uniform heat treatment during the initial warp drawing operation do not undergo such shrinkage and thus define arrangements of substantially unaltered surface loops 305 wherein the filaments remain substantially aligned with relatively low levels of crimping and entanglement.
  • the filaments within the self textured segments 306 of the face are characterized by a substantially greater diameter than the filaments in the unaltered surface loops 305 and a different crystalline orientation, as previously described.
  • for purposes of comparison refer to the photomicrographs of filament cross sections in exemplary low shrink yarn portions illustrated in FIG. 4A as well as in the self textured yarn segments illustrated in FIG. 4B .
  • the filaments making up the self-textured segments will preferably have an average diameter at least about 25 percent greater (more preferably at least about 50 percent greater) than the average diameter of the filaments forming the low shrink portions.
  • the high shrink segments will preferably have an average cross-sectional area at least about 1.56 times (more preferably at least about 2.25 times) the average area of the filaments forming the low shrink segments.
  • the number of interlace nodes will preferably be in the range of about 8 to 40 nodes per meter with each node taking up about 0.6 to about 1.3 cm.
  • zones of high retained shrinkage potential will preferably make up about 4.8% to about 52% percent of the total length of the yarn and will more preferably make up about 25% of the total length of the yarn.
  • a substantial benefit of the present invention is that the self-textured segments of heat shrunk yarn are present across the surface of the fabric in a substantially random arrangement. This imparts a substantially natural random look which may be desirable in many instances. Moreover, since the self-textured zones undergo heat shrinkage as a result of activating intrinsic heat shrink potential, such shrinkage occurs without embrittlement thereby enhancing a soft feel and avoiding filament breakage leading to undesirable shredding. Also as previously indicated, after self-texturing takes place, the high shrink portions of the yarn have a lower level of crystalline orientation than the low shrink portions.
  • the level of crystalline orientation of the low shrink portions of the yarn as measured by the Herman Orientation Function will on average be at least 5% greater (and more preferably at least 10% greater) than the level of crystalline orientation of the high shrink portions.
  • a 115 denier 36 filament semi-dull round partially oriented polyester yarn was subjected to a 1.143 draw across a contact Dowtherm heater plate operated at a temperature of 200° C.
  • the heater contact length was 17 inches and the yarn was taken up off of the heater at a rate of 600 yards per minute.
  • the yarns were spaced at a density of approximately 17.4 yarns per inch across the heater.
  • the warper tension was set at 25 to 30 grams.
  • Overall draw ratio was 1.165.
  • the drawn yarn was knitted into the face of a 2 bar Tricot knit fabric with the ground being formed of a 70 denier 36 filament semi-dull round fully warpdrawn polyester.
  • the bar 1 (face yarn) runner length was 102 inches.
  • the bar 2 (ground yarn) runner length was 46 inches.
  • the knitting machine was fully threaded.
  • the resultant fabric had 60 coarses per inch.
  • the fabric was jet dyed according to a standard disperse dye cycle at 280° F., held for 20 minutes with a 2° F. per minute temperature ramp up.
  • the fabric was wet pad tenter dried at a temperature of 300° F. passing through the tenter at 20 yards per minute.
  • the exit width after drying was 59.5 inches.
  • the resultant fabric had random high loops with relatively greater oriented crystalline regions than the low loops which were characterized by very low order orientation of the crystals as measured by wide angle X-ray scattering.
  • a 115 denier 36 filament semi-dull round partially oriented polyester yarn was subjected to a 1.143 draw across a contact Dowtherm heater plate operated at a temperature of 175 C.
  • the heater contact length was 17 inches and the yarn was taken up off of the heater at a rate of 600 yards per minute.
  • the yarns were spaced at a density of approximately 17.4 yarns per inch across the heater.
  • the warper tension was set at 25 to 32 grams.
  • Overall draw ratio was 1.165.
  • the drawn yarn was knitted into the face of a 4 bar 56 gauge Raschel knit fabric.
  • the bar 1 yarn (tie down stitch) bar 2 yarn (tie down stitch) and bar 4 (ground yarn) were all formed of 70 denier 36 filament semi-dull round fully warpdrawn polyester.
  • the face yarn was threaded in Bar 3.
  • the bar 1 runner length was 60 inches.
  • the bar 2 runner length was 60 inches.
  • the bar 3 (face yarn) runner length was 102 inches.
  • the bar 4 ground yarn runner length was 54 inches.
  • the resultant fabric had 49.5 coarses per inch.
  • the fabric was jet dyed at 280° F., held for 20 minutes with a 20 F per minute temperature ramp up.
  • the fabrics were wet pad tenter dried at a temperature of 300° F. passing through the tenter at 20 yards per minute.
  • the exit width after drying was 53 inches.
  • the resultant fabric had random high loops with relatively greater oriented crystalline regions than the low loops which were characterized by very low order orientation of the crystals as measured by wide angle X-ray scattering.
  • FIG. 11 there is illustrated a typical prior art loop pile fabric 400 such as may be formed in a warp knit construction as will be well known to those of skill in the art.
  • the loop pile fabric 400 has a base or a ground portion 410 formed from ground yarns 411 .
  • the pile fabric 400 also includes a pile portion 420 made up of a multiplicity of loops 424 formed from pile yarns 421 knitted in conjunction with the ground yarns 410 .
  • the pile yarns 421 are made up of multiple discrete filaments 422 .
  • the pile yarns 421 in such prior art pile fabrics have typically undergone a hot drawing operation so as to impart a uniform heat treatment and extension to the filaments 421 prior to formation into the fabric 400 .
  • the pile yarns 421 are fully drawn to approximately 1.7 times their initial length while being subjected to a temperature of about 200° C. prior to formation into a fabric construction.
  • This drawing and heat treatment imparts enhanced crystallite orientation to the entire length of the yarn while also providing a substantially uniform heat history such that the propensity to undergo shrinkage is minimized and any shrinkage which does occur after the yarn is formed into a fabric will be substantially uniform.
  • the pile yarns 421 yield loops 424 which are of substantially uniform character upon initial formation and which react in substantially the same manner when subjected to post-formation heat treatment such that uniform height characteristics and filament alignment are maintained after the fabric is heat set and dyed.
  • a pile fabric 500 has a base or ground portion 510 formed of ground yarns 511 , and a pile portion 520 formed of pile yarns 521 .
  • the pile yarns 521 begin as the POY yarn 100 in Step 181, which are then formed into resultant yarns 100 ′ in Step 182 by the introduction of variable heat treatment across portions of the yarn 100 to introduce the above-described differential shrinkage potential characteristics in various segments in the resultant yarns 100 ′.
  • the resultant yarn 100 ′ is formed into the pile fabric 500 as the pile yarns 521 of the pile portion 520 in a manner that the fabric is similar in appearance to the loop fabric illustrated in FIG. 11 .
  • the formed greige fabric is characterized by loop heights which are substantially uniform.
  • the resultant yarn 100 ′ is transformed into the post heat treatment yarn 100 ′′ giving the pile fabric 500 a substantially different appearance. Due to the variable heat treatment history at segments along the resultant yarns 100 ′, when the formed greige fabric is heat set and dyed at prolonged elevated temperatures, segments of the pile yarns 521 react in dramatically different fashions thereby imparting an appearance variability to the finished fabric 500 .
  • portions of the resultant yarns 100 ′ which made up the interlace nodes 103 and adjacent areas, and which did not undergo a uniform heat treatment during drawing, tend to undergo selective shrinkage during the heat setting and dyeing operations to form low profile loops 526 .
  • FIG. 12 illustrates a resultant fabric structure following heat treatment and dyeing.
  • portions of those yarns have undergone shrinkage so as to form low profile loop segments 526 of a self-textured entangled construction across the ground fabric 510 .
  • the segments of the yarns which have undergone uniform heat treatment during the initial drying operation do not undergo such shrinkage and thus define arrangements of high profile loops 525 wherein the filaments remain substantially aligned.
  • the distribution of the low profile loops 526 and the high profile loops 525 is substantially random, and typically will group into zones on the fabric 500 .
  • a single post treatment resultant yarn 100 ′′ can have at least one low profile loop 526 disposed between high profile loops 525 , at least two low profile loops 526 disposed between high profile loops 525 , and at least three low profile loops 526 are disposed between high profile loops 525 .
  • many more low profile loops 526 can be disposed between high profile loops 525 , and the exact arrangement of the loops will be random.
  • the randomness of the arrangement gives the pile fabric 500 a surface textural appearance.
  • a photomicrograph illustrating such an exemplary fabric construction is provided at FIG. 13 .
  • the low profile loops 526 can be seen in the foreground and the high profile loops 525 can be seen directly behind the low profile loops 526 .
  • the filaments within the low profile loop segments 526 of the pile portion 520 are characterized by a substantially greater diameter than the filaments in the high profile loops 525 .
  • for purposes of comparison refer to the photomicrographs of filament cross sections in exemplary low shrink yarn portions illustrated in FIG. 4A as well as in the self textured yarn segments illustrated in FIG. 4B .
  • the filaments making up the low profile loop segments will preferably have an average diameter at least about 25 percent greater (more preferably at least about 50 percent greater) than the average diameter of the filaments forming the high profile loops.
  • the low profile loop segments will preferably have an average cross-sectional area at least about 1.56 times (more preferably at least about 2.25 times) the average area of the filaments forming the high profile loops.
  • the number of interlace nodes will preferably be in the range of about 8 to 40 nodes per meter with each node taking up about 0.6 to about 1.3 cm.
  • zones of high retained shrinkage potential will preferably make up about 4.8% to about 52% percent of the total length of the yarn and will more preferably make up about 25% of the total length of the yarn.
  • a substantial benefit of the present invention is that the low profile loop segments 526 of heat shrunk yarn are present across the surface of the fabric in a substantially random arrangement. This imparts a substantially natural random look which may be desirable in many instances. Moreover, since the low profile zones undergo heat shrinkage as a result of activating intrinsic heat shrink potential, such shrinkage occurs without embrittlement and results in a self crimping of the yarns in the low profile zones which emulates texturing thereby enhancing a soft feel and avoiding filament breakage leading to undesirable shredding. As previously indicated, after self-texturing takes place, the high shrink portions of the yarn have a lower level of crystalline orientation than the low shrink portions.
  • the level of crystalline orientation of the low shrink portions of the yarn as measured by the Herman Orientation Function will on average be at least 5% greater (and more preferably at least 10% greater) than the level of crystalline orientation of the high shrink portions.
  • a 115 denier 36 filament semi-dull round partially oriented polyester yarn was subjected to a 1.143 draw across a contact Dowtherm heater plate operated at a temperature of 170 C.
  • the heater contact length was 17 inches and the yarn was taken up off of the heater at a rate of 600 yards per minute.
  • the yarns were spaced at a density of approximately 17.4 yarns per inch across the heater.
  • the warper tension was set at 26 to 30 grams.
  • Overall draw ratio was 1.165.
  • the drawn yarn was knitted into the face of a 2 bar 56 gauge POL knit fabric with the ground being formed of a single ply 150 denier 36 filament semi-dull round false twist textured polyester.
  • the bar 1 (face yarn) runner length was 135 inches.
  • the bar 2 (ground yarn) runner length was 52 inches.
  • the knitting machine was fully threaded.
  • the resultant fabric had 66 coarses per inch with a pile height of 0.065 inches and a width of 57.25 inches.
  • Samples of the resultant greige fabric were thereafter subjected to heat setting at 330° F. and at 410° F. No difference in the finished fabrics was observed.
  • the fabrics were jet dyed at 266° F., held for 30 minutes with a 2° F.
  • the fabrics were wet pad tenter dried at a temperature of 250° F. passing through the tenter at 25 yards per minute. The exit width after drying was 56 inches.
  • the resultant fabric had random high loops with relatively greater oriented crystalline regions than the low loops which were characterized by very low order orientation of the crystals as measured by wide angle X-ray scattering.
  • FIG. 14 there is illustrated a typical prior art cut pile fabric 600 , such as may be well known to those of skill in the art, having a base or a ground portion 610 formed from ground yarns 611 and pile portion 620 formed from a multiplicity of pile yarns 621 .
  • the pile yarns 621 are made up of multiple discrete filaments 622 .
  • the cut pile fabric can be formed by many methods know in the art, such as double needle bar, clip knit, tufting, POL knit, single needle bar, woven velour, etc.
  • the pile yarns 621 in such prior art pile fabrics 600 have typically undergone a hot drawing operation so as to impart a uniform heat treatment and extension to the filaments 622 prior to formation into the fabric 600 .
  • the pile yarns 621 are fully drawn to approximately 1.7 times their initial length while being subjected to a temperature of about 200° C. prior to formation into a fabric construction.
  • This drawing and heat treatment imparts enhanced crystallite orientation to the entire length of the yarn while also providing a substantially uniform heat history such that the propensity to undergo shrinkage is minimized and any shrinkage which does occur after the yarn is formed into a fabric will be substantially uniform.
  • the pile yarns 621 yield pile yarns 621 which are of substantially uniform character upon initial formation and which react in substantially the same manner when subjected to post-formation heat treatment such that uniform height characteristics and filament alignment are maintained after the fabric is heat set and dyed.
  • FIG. 17 Illustrated in FIG. 17 is a cut pile fabric 700 that has a base or ground portion 710 formed of ground yarns 711 , and a pile portion 720 formed of pile yarns 721 .
  • the pile yarns 721 begin as the POY yarn 100 in Step 181 which is formed into a resultant yarns 100 ′ after the introduction of variable heat treatment across portions of the yarn 100 in Step 182 to introduce the above-described differential shrinkage potential characteristics in various segments in the resultant yarns 100 ′.
  • the resultant yarn 100 ′ is formed into the pile fabric 700 as the pile yarns 721 of the pile portion 720 in a manner that the fabric is similar in appearance to the cut pile fabric illustrated in FIG. 13 .
  • the formed greige fabric is characterized by pile heights which are substantially uniform.
  • the resultant yarn 100 ′ is transformed into the post heat treatment yarn 100 ′′, giving the pile fabric 700 a substantially different appearance. Due to the variable heat treatment history at segments along the resultant yarns 100 ′, when the formed greige fabric is heat set and dyed at prolonged elevated temperatures, segments of the pile yarns 721 react in dramatically different fashions thereby imparting an appearance variability to the finished fabric 700 .
  • portions of the resultant yarns 100 ′ which made up the interlace nodes 103 and adjacent areas and which did not undergo a uniform heat treatment during drawing tend to undergo selective shrinkage during the heat setting and dyeing operations to form low profile cut pile 726 .
  • FIG. 15 illustrates a resultant fabric structure following heat treatment and dyeing.
  • the same resultant yarns 100 ′ are utilized throughout the pile portion 720 of the fabric 700 , portions of those yarns have undergone shrinkage so as to form low profile loop segments 726 of a self-textured entangled construction across the ground fabric 710 .
  • the segments of the resultant yarns 100 ′ which have undergone uniform heat treatment during the initial drying operation do not undergo such shrinkage and thus define arrangements of high profile pile yarns 725 wherein the filaments remain substantially aligned.
  • the distribution of the low profile pile yarns 726 and the high profile pile yarns 725 is substantially random, and typically will group into zones on the fabric 700 .
  • a single post treatment resultant yarn 100 ′′ can form a row of pile yarns 7210 having at least one low profile pile yarn 726 disposed between high profile pile yarns 725 , at least two low profile pile yarns 726 disposed between high profile pile yarns 725 , and at least three low profile pile yarns 726 disposed between high profile pile yarns 725 .
  • many more low profile pile yarns 726 can be disposed between high profile pile yarns 725 , and the exact arrangement of the various height pile yarns will be random. The randomness of the arrangement gives the pile fabric 700 a surface textural appearance.
  • a photomicrograph illustrating such an exemplary fabric construction is provided at FIG. 16 .
  • the low profile pile 726 can be seen in the foreground and the high profile pile 725 can be seen directly behind the low profile pile 726 .
  • the filaments within the low profile pile yarn segments 726 of the pile portion 720 are characterized by a substantially greater diameter than the filaments in the high profile pile yarns 725 .
  • for purposes of comparison refer to the photomicrographs of filament cross sections in exemplary low shrink yarn portions illustrated in FIG. 4A as well as in the self textured yarn segments illustrated in FIG. 4B .
  • the filaments making up the low profile loop segments will preferably have an average diameter at least about 25 percent greater (more preferably at least about 50 percent greater) than the average diameter of the filaments forming the high profile loops.
  • the low profile loop segments will preferably have an average cross-sectional area at least about 1.56 times (more preferably at least about 2.25 times) the average area of the filaments forming the high profile loops.
  • the number of interlace nodes will preferably be in the range of about 8 to 40 nodes per meter with each node taking up about 0.6 to about 1.3 cm.
  • zones of high retained shrinkage potential will preferably make up about 4.8% to about 52% percent of the total length of the yarn and will more preferably make up about 25% of the total length of the yarn.
  • a substantial benefit of the present invention is that the low profile pile yarn segments 726 of heat shrunk yarn are present across the surface of the fabric in a substantially random arrangement. This imparts a substantially natural random look which may be desirable in many instances. Moreover, since the low profile zones undergo heat shrinkage as a result of activating intrinsic heat shrink potential, such shrinkage occurs without embrittlement and results in a self crimping of the yarns in the low profile zones which emulates texturing thereby enhancing a soft feel and avoiding filament breakage leading to undesirable shredding. As previously indicated, after self-texturing takes place, the high shrink portions of the yarn have a lower level of crystalline orientation than the low shrink portions.
  • the level of crystalline orientation of the low shrink portions of the yarn as measured by the Herman Orientation Function will on average be at least 5% greater (and more preferably at least 10% greater) than the level of crystalline orientation of the high shrink portions.
  • a 175 denier 48 filament full dull round partially oriented polyester yarn was subjected to a 1.143 draw across a contact Dowtherm heater plate operated at a temperature of 215° C.
  • the heater contact length was 17 inches and the yarn was taken up off of the heater at a rate of 600 yards per minute.
  • the yarns were spaced 17.4 yarns per inch across the heater.
  • the warper tension was 48 grams.
  • Overall draw ratio was 1.165. Measurements of the post drawn yarn indicated a linear density of 151.8 denier and a boiling water shrinkage of 12.66%.
  • the drawn yarn was knitted in the face of a 6-bar 32 gauge Double Needle Bar Knit machine with the ground being formed of a 150 denier 36 filament semi-dull round warp drawn polyester and a 212 denier 36 filament semi-dull round underdrawn polyester.
  • the bar ⁇ fraction (3/4) ⁇ (pile yarns) runner length was 375 inches.
  • the bar 2/5 (ground yarns) runner length was 90 inches and the bar 1/6 (ground yarn) runner length was 130 inches.
  • the knit machine was fully threaded.
  • the resultant sandwich fabric had a thickness of 0.205 inches and was subsequently slit to yield a pile height of ⁇ fraction (6/64) ⁇ inches. Samples of the resultant greige fabric were thereafter subjected to heat setting at 330° F.
  • the fabrics were jet dyed at 266° F., held for 30 minutes with a 2° F. per minute rate of rise.
  • the fabrics were wet pad tenter dried at a temperature of 250° F. passing through the tenter at 25 yarns per minute. The exit width was 56 inches.
  • the resultant fabric was characterized with a “pebbly” surface appearance.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
US10/883,932 2003-07-03 2004-07-02 Yarn having differentiated shrinkage segments and fabrics formed therefrom Abandoned US20050022563A1 (en)

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US10/883,932 US20050022563A1 (en) 2003-07-03 2004-07-02 Yarn having differentiated shrinkage segments and fabrics formed therefrom
PCT/US2004/021343 WO2005007950A2 (fr) 2003-07-03 2004-07-02 Fil ayant des segments au retrait differencie et les tissus realises avec ce fil

Applications Claiming Priority (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US10/613,241 US20050003142A1 (en) 2003-07-03 2003-07-03 Pile fabric, and heat modified fiber and related manufacturing process
US10/613,240 US6832419B1 (en) 2003-07-03 2003-07-03 Method of making pile fabric
US10/835,773 US20050003184A1 (en) 2003-07-03 2004-04-30 Yarn having variable shrinkage zones
US10/835,763 US6981394B2 (en) 2003-07-03 2004-04-30 Textile fabric having randomly arranged yarn segments of variable texture and crystalline orientation
US10/835,772 US20050003139A1 (en) 2003-07-03 2004-04-30 Loop pile fabric having randomly arranged loops of variable height
US10/883,932 US20050022563A1 (en) 2003-07-03 2004-07-02 Yarn having differentiated shrinkage segments and fabrics formed therefrom

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US10/613,240 Continuation-In-Part US6832419B1 (en) 2003-07-03 2003-07-03 Method of making pile fabric
US10/613,241 Continuation-In-Part US20050003142A1 (en) 2003-07-03 2003-07-03 Pile fabric, and heat modified fiber and related manufacturing process
US10/835,773 Continuation-In-Part US20050003184A1 (en) 2003-07-03 2004-04-30 Yarn having variable shrinkage zones
US10/835,763 Continuation-In-Part US6981394B2 (en) 2003-07-03 2004-04-30 Textile fabric having randomly arranged yarn segments of variable texture and crystalline orientation
US10/835,772 Continuation-In-Part US20050003139A1 (en) 2003-07-03 2004-04-30 Loop pile fabric having randomly arranged loops of variable height

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Cited By (6)

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US20050003142A1 (en) * 2003-07-03 2005-01-06 Williamson Curtis Brian Pile fabric, and heat modified fiber and related manufacturing process
US20080044620A1 (en) * 2006-06-22 2008-02-21 Moshe Rock High pile fabrics
US20120255643A1 (en) * 2011-04-08 2012-10-11 Hongwei Duan Fabrics having double layers of terry or pile
CN109946224A (zh) * 2019-04-11 2019-06-28 广东溢达纺织有限公司 织物缩水性能测量装置及其方法
US11060212B2 (en) * 2016-10-04 2021-07-13 Nike, Inc. Textiles and garments formed using yarns space-treated with functional finishes
US20240180289A1 (en) * 2022-12-01 2024-06-06 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear with integrally-knitted upper and sole including grip yarn and method of manufacturing

Families Citing this family (1)

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JP4953764B2 (ja) * 2005-11-29 2012-06-13 株式会社東京精密 剥離テープ貼付方法および剥離テープ貼付装置

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US20050003142A1 (en) * 2003-07-03 2005-01-06 Williamson Curtis Brian Pile fabric, and heat modified fiber and related manufacturing process
US20080044620A1 (en) * 2006-06-22 2008-02-21 Moshe Rock High pile fabrics
US20120255643A1 (en) * 2011-04-08 2012-10-11 Hongwei Duan Fabrics having double layers of terry or pile
US8578972B2 (en) * 2011-04-08 2013-11-12 Hongwei Duan Fabrics having double layers of terry or pile
US11060212B2 (en) * 2016-10-04 2021-07-13 Nike, Inc. Textiles and garments formed using yarns space-treated with functional finishes
US11655567B2 (en) 2016-10-04 2023-05-23 Nike, Inc. Textiles and garments formed using yarns space-treated with functional finishes
CN109946224A (zh) * 2019-04-11 2019-06-28 广东溢达纺织有限公司 织物缩水性能测量装置及其方法
US20240180289A1 (en) * 2022-12-01 2024-06-06 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear with integrally-knitted upper and sole including grip yarn and method of manufacturing
US12396513B2 (en) * 2022-12-01 2025-08-26 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear with integrally-knitted upper and sole including grip yarn and method of manufacturing

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WO2005007950A3 (fr) 2006-02-09

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