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US20050013790A1 - External skin care composition - Google Patents

External skin care composition Download PDF

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US20050013790A1
US20050013790A1 US10/915,332 US91533204A US2005013790A1 US 20050013790 A1 US20050013790 A1 US 20050013790A1 US 91533204 A US91533204 A US 91533204A US 2005013790 A1 US2005013790 A1 US 2005013790A1
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Prior art keywords
copolymers
acrylate
acid
skin care
care composition
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US10/915,332
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Kazuhiro Yamaki
Tomohiko Sano
Kimihiko Hiro
Yutaka Takagi
Yukihiro Ohashi
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Kao Corp
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Kao Corp
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176—Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an external skin care composition which can enhance the moisturizing function and barrier function of the skin and has an excellent skin roughness-improving effect.
  • Ceramide which is one of sphingolipids is largely present in the horny layer and is known to deeply participates in the development of protecting function and barrier function of the skin to have effects on the improvement of a rough skin and the prevention of cutaneous aging. Therefore, it is attempted to apply an external skin care composition with natural ceramide or pseudoceramide incorporated therein to the skin so as to supply decreased ceramide in the horny layer. According to this attempt, however, no long-term effect is recognized, and stability is insufficient. On the other hand, substances capable of facilitating the synthesis of ceramide in epidermic cells have been found, and it has also been conducted to develop preparations for effectively increasing the amount of ceramide in the horny layer. However, their effects to improve a rough skin have been yet insufficient.
  • the present inventors have found that when a ceramide production-accelerating substance and a high-molecular compound having film-forming properties are used in combination, an excellent skin roughness-improving effect is synergistically exhibited.
  • an external skin care composition comprising a ceramide production-accelerating agent and a film-forming polymer.
  • the external skin care composition according to the present invention can enhance the barrier function of the skin and has a marked skin roughness-improving effect.
  • FIG. 1 diagrammatically illustrates the ceramide production-accelerating effects of extracts of eucalyptus ( Eucalyptus globulus ), hop and ginger (zingiber) on human keratinocytes;
  • FIG. 2 diagrammatically illustrates the effects of increasing the amount of ceramide in the epidermis and horny layer by the extracts of eucalyptus ( Eucalyptus globulus ), hop and ginger (zingiber); and
  • FIG. 3 diagrammatically illustrates the ceramide production-accelerating effects of extracts of gambier ( Uncaria gambir Roxburgh), rose fruit ( Rosa multiflora Thunberg), marronnier (horse chestnut), lily, Coicis semen (Job's-tears), cattail ( Typha angustifolia linne), loquat, cape jasmine, ginseng ( Panax ginseng C. A.
  • ceramide production-accelerating substance useful in the practice of the present invention so far as it is a substance capable of accelerating the production of ceramide in the skin.
  • examples thereof include (1) plants, and extracts, steam distilled products and pressed products thereof, and (2) nicotinic acid, nicotinic acid salts, nicotinyl alcohol and derivatives thereof.
  • Examples of the plants in the item (1) include eucalyptus, hop, zingiber, Uncaria gambir Roxburgh, Rosa multiflora Thunberg, horse chestnut, lily, Job's-tears, cattail, loquat, cape jasmine, Panax ginseng C.
  • Eucalyptus is a plant of Eucalyptus globulus or any other related species thereof, belonging to the family Myrtaceas, and its leaves, twigs, blossoms or fruits are mainly used.
  • Hop is a plant belonging to the family Moraceae, and its female flower spikes are mainly used.
  • Zingiber ( Zingiberis rhizoma ) is a plant belonging to the family Zingiberaceae, and its rhizome (ginger) is mainly used.
  • Uncaria gambir Roxburgh is a plant belonging to the family Rubiaseae, and its leaves or young branches are mainly used.
  • Rosa multiflora Thunberg is a plant belonging to the family Rosaceae, and its false fruits or fruits (nuts) (i.e., rose fruit) are mainly used.
  • Horse chestnut ( Aesculus hippocastanum Linne) is a plant belonging to the family Hippocastanaceae, and its seeds, leaves or bark is mainly used.
  • Lily ( Lilium candidum ) is a plant belonging to the family Liliaceae, and its bulb is mainly used.
  • Job's-tears ( Coix lacryma - jobi Linne var. ma - yuen Stapf ) is a plant belonging to the family Gramineae, and its seeds ( Coicis semen ) from which a seed coat has been removed are mainly used.
  • Cattail is a plant of Typha angustifolia linne or any other related species thereof, belonging to the family Typhaceae, and its flower spikes are mainly used
  • Loquat Eriobotrya japonica Lindley is a plant belonging to the family Rosaceae, and its leaves are mainly used.
  • Cape jasmine ( Gardenia jasminoides Ellis) is a plant belonging to the family Rubiaseae, and its fruits are mainly used.
  • Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer Panax schinseng Nees is a plant belonging to the family Araliaceae, and its root or a steamed and dried product thereof is mainly used.
  • Saponaria officinalis Linne is a plant belonging to the family Caryophyllaceae, and its leaves or root is mainly used.
  • White birch is a plant of Betula pendula Roth or any other related species thereof, belonging to the family Betulaceae, and its leaves, bark, xylem or sap is mainly used.
  • Hydrangea ( Hydrangea serrata Seringe var. thunbergii Sugimoto; Hydrangea macrophylla Seringe var. thunbergii Makino) is a plant belonging to the family Saxifragaceae, and its leaves or the tips of branches thereof are mainly used.
  • Clove Syzygium aromaticum Merrill et Perry; Eugenia caryophyllata Thunberg
  • Myrtaceae a plant belonging to the family Myrtaceae, and its spikes (ears), flower stalks, immature fruits or leaves are mainly used.
  • Safflower Carthamus tinctorius Linne
  • Carthamus tinctorius Linne is a plant belonging to the family Compositae, and its flower, a portion obtained by removing most of a yellow pigment from the flower, or the whole thereof is mainly used.
  • Sanguisorba officinalis Linne is a plant belonging to the family Rosaceae, and its root or rhizome is mainly used.
  • Iris is a plant belonging to the family Iridaceae, exemplified by Iris florentina L., Iris germania L., Iris pallida L., etc., and its rhizome is mainly used.
  • Sophora flavescens Aiton is a plant belonging to the family Leguminosae, and its root or a portion obtained by removing most of the periderm of the root is mainly used.
  • the above-described plants may be used as they are, or after they are dried and ground.
  • extracts, steam distilled products or pressed products thereof may also be used.
  • More purified products thereof, such as essential oils, may also be used, or commercial products may also be utilized.
  • Examples of a solvent used in extraction include those routinely used in extraction of plant components, such as water, petroleum ether, n-hexane, toluene, dichloroethane, chloroform, ether, ethyl acetate, acetone, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol. Of these, water, ethanol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol are particularly preferred. These solvents may be used either singly or in any combination thereof. Ordinary conditions may be applied for the extraction. For example, any one of the above-described plants is immersed at 3 to 100° C. for several hours to several weeks in the solvent or heated under reflux.
  • the conventional method may also be adopted.
  • the essential oil may be obtained from any one of the above-described plants by steam distillation, extraction or pressing.
  • the extracts, steam distilled products or pressed products of these plants may be used as ceramide production-accelerating agents in the present invention as they are.
  • a fraction with high activity may also be fractionated by a proper isolating means, for example, gel filtration, chromatography or rectification.
  • nicotinic acid (salts), nicotinyl alcohol and derivatives thereof in the item (2) examples include niconitic acid, methyl nicotinate, ethyl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate, nicotinamide, nicametate citrate, tocopherol nicotinate, quinolinic acid, pyridine-3,5-dicarboxylic acid, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP), niconitic acid mononucleotide, nicotinyl alcohol and tartaric acid nicotinyl alcohol. These compounds may be used in any form of commercial products, synthetic products and extracts from nature.
  • ceramide production-accelerating agents may be used either singly or in any combination thereof.
  • (1) the plants, and extracts, steam distilled products and pressed products thereof are preferred, with eucalyptus extract and ginger extract being particularly preferred.
  • the amount of these ceramide production-accelerating agents to be incorporated into the external skin care composition according to the present invention is preferably 0.00001 to 20% by weight, particularly 0.001 to 10% by weight in terms of solid content.
  • such an amount is preferably used in an amount of at least 0.1 ppb, particularly 1 to 1,000 ppb in a bath.
  • N-methacryloylethyl-N,N-dimethylammonium- ⁇ -N-methylcarboxybetaine-stearyl methacrylate copolymers N-methacryloylethyl-N,N-dimethylammonium- ⁇ -N-methyl-carboxybetaine-butyl methacrylate copolymers, etc.;
  • These polymers may be used either singly or in any combination thereof.
  • mucopolysaccharides such as silicates, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, styrene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyethylene glycol, polyacrylamide and alkyl acrylate copolymers are preferred.
  • silicones and ionic group-containing polymer examples are chitin and derivatives thereof, xanthan gum, pullulan and acid hetero-polysaccharides derived from callus of plants belonging to the genus Polyanthes L ., and hyaluronic acid; alkyl-modified silicones, oxazoline-modified silicones and high-molecular methyl polysiloxane; and sodium alginate, potassium alginate, polyacrylic acid, acrylic acid-styrene copolymers, carboxyvinyl polymers, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymers and carboxymethyl cellulose.
  • the amount of these film-forming polymers to be incorporated into the external skin care composition according to the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 60% by weight, particularly 0.005 to 40% by weight from the viewpoints of the feeling of the resulting external skin care composition upon use and stability.
  • ком ⁇ онент commonly used may be suitably incorporated in the external skin care compositions according to the present invention.
  • optional components for example, surfactants, oils, sterols, amino acids, moisturizers, powders, ultraviolet absorbents, gelling agents, antiinflammatory agents, antioxidants, pH adjusters and other components.
  • the external skin care composition according to the present invention may be prepared in any form, such as a solubilization system, emulsification system, powder-dispersed solubilization system, powder-dispersed emulsification system or powder-dispersed oil system, in accordance with a method known per se in the art, and can be used for a make-up cosmetic such as a foundation, powder, lip stick, cheek rouge, eye shadow or nail enamel; or a bath additive composition in the form of tablets, capsules, granules, powder or solution.
  • a solubilization system such as a solubilization system, emulsification system, powder-dispersed solubilization system, powder-dispersed emulsification system or powder-dispersed oil system
  • a make-up cosmetic such as a foundation, powder, lip stick, cheek rouge, eye shadow or nail enamel
  • a bath additive composition in the form of tablets, capsules, granules, powder or solution.
  • the pH of the external skin care composition according to the present invention is preferably adjusted to 2 to 11, particularly 3 to 9.
  • Leaves of Eucalyptus globulus Labillardiere were cut into pieces, and a mixed solvent (20:80; 100 ml) of water and 1,3-butanediol was added to the cut pieces (10 g) to conduct extraction at room temperature for 24 hours while sometimes stirring the mixture.
  • the resultant extract was then filtered, and the filtrate was left at rest for 7 days at 5° C. to age the filtrate, and dregs and precipitate formed were separated by filtration. Water (100 ml) was added to the resultant filtrate, and the mixture was concentrated to about 70 ml at 40° C. under reduced pressure.
  • Plant extracts shown in Table 1 were prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
  • Human keratinocytes (HK-f; product of Kyokuto Seiyaku Kogyo K.K.) were cultured for 24 hours at 37° C. under 5% CO 2 in a medium (GIBCO SFM/-BPE, EGF) containing [ 14 C]-serine (product of Daiichi Pure Chemicals Co., Ltd.) using a 6-well plate.
  • the crude drug extract of eucalyptus, hop or ginger obtained in Preparation Example 1 or 2 was then added to the medium in a proportion of 0.001% by weight or 0.01% by weight in terms of solid content to conduct the culture for additional 24 hours.
  • FIG. 1 The results obtained by calculating out an acceleration rate of ceramide production with the acceleration rate of a control, to which no crude drug extract was added, regarded as 1.0 are shown in FIG. 1 .
  • FIG. 1 As apparent from FIG. 1 , all extracts of eucalyptus, hop and ginger were observed having a ceramide production-accelerating effect on human keratinocytes.
  • the skin was subjected to a heat treatment at 60° C. for 60 seconds, thereby peeling the epidermis from the skin.
  • the epidermis was divided into halves, and the horny layer was prepared from one of them using 0.5% trypsin.
  • the plate was immersed in a solution containing 8% by weight of phosphoric acid and 10% by weight of copper sulfate to conduct printing at 160° C. for 15 minutes, and ceramide was then determined by means of a densitometer (Bio•Image; manufactured by Bio-Image Co.).
  • a test for acceleration of ceramide production was conducted in the same manner as in Test Example 1 except that the extracts of gambier, rose fruit, marronnier, lily, Coicis semen , cattail, loquat, cape jasmine, ginseng, Saponaria officinalis Linne, white birch, hydrangea, clove, safflower, Sanguisorba officinalis Linne, iris root and Sophora flavescens Aiton obtained in Preparation Example 2 were separately used.
  • Emulsification type cosmetic compositions having their corresponding formulations shown in Table 2 were prepared in a method known per se in the art to evaluate them as to effects of enhancing the moisturizing function and barrier function of the skin and the improvement rate of skin roughness.
  • each volunteer After washing the face with warm water of 37° C., each volunteer was allowed to rest for 30 minutes in a room which was air-conditioned at 20° and 40% humidity. The water content of her horny layer was then measured by an impedance meter (manufactured by IBS Company). The measured value was indicated by an average value ⁇ standard error. A higher measured value indicates that the test sample has a higher effect for enhancing the moisturizing function of the skin.
  • a transepidermal water loss was measured by means of a Hydrometer (manufactured by Meeco Co.) in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
  • TEWL transepidermal water loss
  • Hydrometer manufactured by Meeco Co.
  • Skin roughness was observed visually and ranked in accordance with the following standard. Each score was indicated by an average value ⁇ standard error. A lower score indicates a higher improvement rate of skin roughness.
  • Emulsification type cosmetic compositions were prepared in the same manner as in Test Example 4 except that extracts of hop, gambier, rose fruit, marronnier, lily, Coicis semen , cattail, loquat leaf, cape jasmine, ginseng, Saponaria officinalis Linne, white birch, hydrangea, clove, safflower, Sanguisorba officinalis Linne, iris root and Sophora flavescens Aiton set forth in Table 1 were separately incorporated in place of the eucalyptus extract in the formulation of Test Example 4 shown in Table 2, and evaluated as to effects of enhancing the moisturizing function and barrier function of the skin and the improvement rate of skin roughness in the same manner as in Test Example 4. As a result, all the emulsification type cosmetic compositions were found to have excellent effects.
  • a toilet lotion having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
  • Eucalyptus extract (in terms of solids) 0.01 Polyethylene glycol* 1 1.00 Polyoxyethylene (29) sorbitan monolaurate 1.50 Glycerol 2.00 Paraben 0.10 Purified water Balance * 1 PEG-1540, product of Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd.
  • O/W type emulsion having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
  • Eucalyptus extract (in terms of solids) 0.02 Polyethylene glycol* 1 1.00 Pullulan* 2 0.40 Cetyl alcohol 1.00 Vaseline 2.00 Squalane 6.00 Dimethyl polysiloxane 2.00 Glycerol 2.00 Pseudoceramide* 3 1.00 Polyoxyethylene (10) monooleate 1.00 Glycerol monostearate 1.00 Acid hetero-polysaccharide derived from 2.00 callus of plant* 4 Paraben 0.20 Purified water Balance * 1 PEG-2000, product of Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd.
  • a W/O type cream having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
  • a sunscreen composition having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
  • Ginger extract in terms of solids
  • Octyl p-methoxycinnamate 5.00
  • Silicon-coated titanium oxide 0.50
  • Dimethyl polysiloxane 5.00 Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 20.00
  • Glycerol Magnesium sulfate 1.00 Paraben 0.20 Perfume base Trace amount Purified water Balance * 1 Iodosol GH810, product of Kanebo NSC Ltd. * 2 PEG-4000S, product of Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd.
  • a cosmetic jelly having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
  • Ginger extract in terms of solids
  • a liquid bath additive composition having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.

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Abstract

The invention relates to an external skin care composition comprising a ceramide production-accelerating agent and a film-forming polymer. The external skin care composition can enhance the barrier function of the skin and has an excellent skin roughness-improving effect.

Description

    BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
  • 1. Field of the Invention
  • The present invention relates to an external skin care composition which can enhance the moisturizing function and barrier function of the skin and has an excellent skin roughness-improving effect.
  • 2. Description of the Background Art
  • Ceramide which is one of sphingolipids is largely present in the horny layer and is known to deeply participates in the development of protecting function and barrier function of the skin to have effects on the improvement of a rough skin and the prevention of cutaneous aging. Therefore, it is attempted to apply an external skin care composition with natural ceramide or pseudoceramide incorporated therein to the skin so as to supply decreased ceramide in the horny layer. According to this attempt, however, no long-term effect is recognized, and stability is insufficient. On the other hand, substances capable of facilitating the synthesis of ceramide in epidermic cells have been found, and it has also been conducted to develop preparations for effectively increasing the amount of ceramide in the horny layer. However, their effects to improve a rough skin have been yet insufficient.
    • SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
  • It is an object of the present invention to provide an external skin care composition which can enhance the barrier function of the skin and has an excellent skin roughness-improving effect.
  • The present inventors have found that when a ceramide production-accelerating substance and a high-molecular compound having film-forming properties are used in combination, an excellent skin roughness-improving effect is synergistically exhibited.
  • According to the present invention, there is thus provided an external skin care composition comprising a ceramide production-accelerating agent and a film-forming polymer.
  • The external skin care composition according to the present invention can enhance the barrier function of the skin and has a marked skin roughness-improving effect.
    • BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
  • The above and other objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following description and the appended claims, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:
  • FIG. 1 diagrammatically illustrates the ceramide production-accelerating effects of extracts of eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus), hop and ginger (zingiber) on human keratinocytes;
  • FIG. 2 diagrammatically illustrates the effects of increasing the amount of ceramide in the epidermis and horny layer by the extracts of eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus), hop and ginger (zingiber); and
  • FIG. 3 diagrammatically illustrates the ceramide production-accelerating effects of extracts of gambier (Uncaria gambir Roxburgh), rose fruit (Rosa multiflora Thunberg), marronnier (horse chestnut), lily, Coicis semen (Job's-tears), cattail (Typha angustifolia linne), loquat, cape jasmine, ginseng (Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer), Saponaria officinalis Linne, white birch (Betula pendula Roth), hydrangea, clove, safflower, Sanguisorba officinalis Linne, iris (Iris florentina L.) and Sophora flavescens Aiton on human keratinocytes.
    • DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
  • No particular limitation is imposed on the ceramide production-accelerating substance useful in the practice of the present invention so far as it is a substance capable of accelerating the production of ceramide in the skin. Examples thereof include (1) plants, and extracts, steam distilled products and pressed products thereof, and (2) nicotinic acid, nicotinic acid salts, nicotinyl alcohol and derivatives thereof.
  • Examples of the plants in the item (1) include eucalyptus, hop, zingiber, Uncaria gambir Roxburgh, Rosa multiflora Thunberg, horse chestnut, lily, Job's-tears, cattail, loquat, cape jasmine, Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer, Saponaria officinalis Linne, white birch, hydrangea, clove, safflower, Sanguisorba officinalis Linne, iris and Sophora flavescens Aiton.
  • Eucalyptus is a plant of Eucalyptus globulus or any other related species thereof, belonging to the family Myrtaceas, and its leaves, twigs, blossoms or fruits are mainly used.
  • Hop (Humulus lupulus) is a plant belonging to the family Moraceae, and its female flower spikes are mainly used.
  • Zingiber (Zingiberis rhizoma) is a plant belonging to the family Zingiberaceae, and its rhizome (ginger) is mainly used.
  • Uncaria gambir Roxburgh is a plant belonging to the family Rubiaseae, and its leaves or young branches are mainly used.
  • Rosa multiflora Thunberg is a plant belonging to the family Rosaceae, and its false fruits or fruits (nuts) (i.e., rose fruit) are mainly used.
  • Horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum Linne) is a plant belonging to the family Hippocastanaceae, and its seeds, leaves or bark is mainly used.
  • Lily (Lilium candidum) is a plant belonging to the family Liliaceae, and its bulb is mainly used.
  • Job's-tears (Coix lacryma-jobi Linne var. ma-yuen Stapf) is a plant belonging to the family Gramineae, and its seeds (Coicis semen) from which a seed coat has been removed are mainly used.
  • Cattail is a plant of Typha angustifolia linne or any other related species thereof, belonging to the family Typhaceae, and its flower spikes are mainly used
  • Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica Lindley) is a plant belonging to the family Rosaceae, and its leaves are mainly used.
  • Cape jasmine (Gardenia jasminoides Ellis) is a plant belonging to the family Rubiaseae, and its fruits are mainly used.
  • Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer (Panax schinseng Nees) is a plant belonging to the family Araliaceae, and its root or a steamed and dried product thereof is mainly used.
  • Saponaria officinalis Linne is a plant belonging to the family Caryophyllaceae, and its leaves or root is mainly used.
  • White birch is a plant of Betula pendula Roth or any other related species thereof, belonging to the family Betulaceae, and its leaves, bark, xylem or sap is mainly used.
  • Hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata Seringe var. thunbergii Sugimoto; Hydrangea macrophylla Seringe var. thunbergii Makino) is a plant belonging to the family Saxifragaceae, and its leaves or the tips of branches thereof are mainly used.
  • Clove (Syzygium aromaticum Merrill et Perry; Eugenia caryophyllata Thunberg) is a plant belonging to the family Myrtaceae, and its spikes (ears), flower stalks, immature fruits or leaves are mainly used.
  • Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linne) is a plant belonging to the family Compositae, and its flower, a portion obtained by removing most of a yellow pigment from the flower, or the whole thereof is mainly used.
  • Sanguisorba officinalis Linne is a plant belonging to the family Rosaceae, and its root or rhizome is mainly used.
  • Iris is a plant belonging to the family Iridaceae, exemplified by Iris florentina L., Iris germania L., Iris pallida L., etc., and its rhizome is mainly used.
  • Sophora flavescens Aiton is a plant belonging to the family Leguminosae, and its root or a portion obtained by removing most of the periderm of the root is mainly used.
  • In the present invention, the above-described plants may be used as they are, or after they are dried and ground. However, extracts, steam distilled products or pressed products thereof may also be used. More purified products thereof, such as essential oils, may also be used, or commercial products may also be utilized.
  • Examples of a solvent used in extraction include those routinely used in extraction of plant components, such as water, petroleum ether, n-hexane, toluene, dichloroethane, chloroform, ether, ethyl acetate, acetone, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol. Of these, water, ethanol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol are particularly preferred. These solvents may be used either singly or in any combination thereof. Ordinary conditions may be applied for the extraction. For example, any one of the above-described plants is immersed at 3 to 100° C. for several hours to several weeks in the solvent or heated under reflux. When the plant is used as an essential oil, the conventional method may also be adopted. For example, the essential oil may be obtained from any one of the above-described plants by steam distillation, extraction or pressing. The extracts, steam distilled products or pressed products of these plants may be used as ceramide production-accelerating agents in the present invention as they are. However, a fraction with high activity may also be fractionated by a proper isolating means, for example, gel filtration, chromatography or rectification.
  • Examples of nicotinic acid (salts), nicotinyl alcohol and derivatives thereof in the item (2) include niconitic acid, methyl nicotinate, ethyl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate, nicotinamide, nicametate citrate, tocopherol nicotinate, quinolinic acid, pyridine-3,5-dicarboxylic acid, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP), niconitic acid mononucleotide, nicotinyl alcohol and tartaric acid nicotinyl alcohol. These compounds may be used in any form of commercial products, synthetic products and extracts from nature.
  • These ceramide production-accelerating agents may be used either singly or in any combination thereof. Among the above-mentioned ceramide production-accelerating agents, (1) the plants, and extracts, steam distilled products and pressed products thereof are preferred, with eucalyptus extract and ginger extract being particularly preferred. The amount of these ceramide production-accelerating agents to be incorporated into the external skin care composition according to the present invention is preferably 0.00001 to 20% by weight, particularly 0.001 to 10% by weight in terms of solid content. In the case of a bath additive composition, such an amount is preferably used in an amount of at least 0.1 ppb, particularly 1 to 1,000 ppb in a bath.
  • No particular limitation is imposed on the film-forming polymer useful in the practice of the present invention. Specific examples thereof include the following:
  • Natural Polymers:
      • proteins such as collagen, collagen derivatives and decomposition products of keratin, chitin and derivatives thereof, chitosan and derivatives thereof, gum arabic, guar gum, locust bean gum, xanthan gum, acid hetero-polysaccharides derived from callus of plants belonging to the genus Polyanthes L., carrageenan, pullulan, pectin, dextrin, quince (Cydonia oblonga), agar, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, methyl polyglutamate, ethyl polyglutamate, sodium alginate, potassium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, etc.;
        Acrylic Resins:
      • polyacrylic acid, poly(methyl acrylate), poly-(ethyl acrylate), poly(butyl acrylate), polyacrylamide, poly(N-isopropylacrylamide), ammonium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate), crosslinked sodium polyacrylate, polymethacrylic acid, poly(methyl methacrylate, poly-(ethyl methacrylate), poly(butyl methacrylate), polymethacrylamide, sodium methacrylate, acrylic acid-styrene-ammonium methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid-styrene copolymers, acrylic acid-methacrylamide copolymers, alkyl acrylate-styrene copolymers, alkyl acrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-acrylamide-acrylic acid copolymers, ethyl acrylate-butyl acrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-ethyl methacrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-methyl methacrylate-acrylic acid copolymers, ethyl acrylate-methyl methacrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-methacrylic acid copolymers, octyl acrylate-styrene copolymers, octyl acrylate-vinyl acetate copolymers, hydroxypropyl acrylate-butylaminoethyl methacrylate-acrylic acid acrylamide copolymers, butyl acrylate-ethyl hydroxymethacrylate copolymers, butyl acrylate-hydroxymethacrylic acid copolymers, butyl acrylate-methyl methacrylate copolymers, butyl acrylate-methacrylic acid copolymers, butyl acrylate-vinyl acetate copolymers, methyl acrylate-ethyl acrylate copolymers, methyl acrylate-styrene copolymers, methoxyethyl acrylate-hydroxyethyl acrylate-butyl acrylate copolymers, methoxyethyl acrylate-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, acrylic resin alkanolamines, methacrylic acid-styrene copolymers, methacrylic acid-butyl methacrylate copolymers, methacrylic acid-methyl methacrylate copolymers, methyl methacrylate-butyl acrylate-octyl acrylate copolymers, etc.;
        Silicones:
      • alkyl-modified silicones, oxazoline-modified silicones, dimethylsiloxane-methylcetyloxysiloxane copolymers, high-molecular methyl polysiloxane, etc.;
        Celluloses:
      • methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, cationized cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, etc.;
        Alkyd Resins:
      • isophthalic acid type alkyd resins, epoxy-modified phthalic acid type alkyd resins, succinic acid type alkyd resins, cyclohexane type alkyd resins, cyclohexene type alkyd resins, phthalic acid type alkyd resins, rosin-modified maleic acid type alkyd resins, etc.;
        Carboxyvinyl Polymers:
      • carboxyvinyl polymers, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymers and calcium or potassium salts thereof, etc.; Olefin-maleic anhydride copolymers and salts thereof:
      • ethylene-maleic anhydride copolymers isobutylene-sodium maleic anhydride copolymers, etc.;
        Epoxy Resins:
      • bisphenol A type epoxy resin oleic acid esters, bisphenol A type epoxy resin stearic acid esters, bisphenol A type epoxy resin ricinoleic acid esters, epoxy resin beef tallow fatty acid esters, epoxy resin whale oil fatty acid esters, etc.
        Vinylpyrrolidone-Based Polymers:
      • poly(vinyl pyrrolidone), vinylpyrrolidone-styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, diethyl sulfate vinylpyrrolidone-N,N-dimethylaminoethyl-methacrylic acid copolymers, etc.;
        Amphoteric Polymers:
  • N-methacryloylethyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-α-N-methylcarboxybetaine-stearyl methacrylate copolymers, N-methacryloylethyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-α-N-methyl-carboxybetaine-butyl methacrylate copolymers, etc.;
  • Synthetic Polyelectrolytes:
      • poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride), etc.; and
        Other Polymers:
      • poly(vinyl methyl ether), vinyl methyl ether-ethyl maleate copolymers, vinyl methyl ether-butyl maleate copolymers, styrene-methylstyrene-indene copolymers, toluenesulfonamide resins, polyamide epichlorohydrin, polyethylene-imine, polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol-epichlorohydrin-coconut oil alkylamine-dipropylenetriamine condensates, polyvinyl acetal diester aminoacetate, polyvinyl acetal diethylamino-acetate, poly(dimethylmethylenepieridinium chloride), methoxyethylene-maleic anhydride copolymers, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymers, hydrogenated styrene-methylstyrene-indene copolymers, maleic anhydride-diisobutylene copolymer sodium salts, nylon 6, nylon 6,6, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyisobutylene, polyisoprene, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl butyrate, polyvinyl chloride, vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl acetate-styrene copolymers, butadiene-acrylonitrile copolymers, etc.
  • These polymers may be used either singly or in any combination thereof.
  • Among the above-mentioned film-forming polymers, mucopolysaccharides, silicones, ionic group-containing polymers, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyethylene glycol, polyacrylamide and alkyl acrylate copolymers are preferred. As the preferred mucopolysaccharides, silicones and ionic group-containing polymer, examples are chitin and derivatives thereof, xanthan gum, pullulan and acid hetero-polysaccharides derived from callus of plants belonging to the genus Polyanthes L., and hyaluronic acid; alkyl-modified silicones, oxazoline-modified silicones and high-molecular methyl polysiloxane; and sodium alginate, potassium alginate, polyacrylic acid, acrylic acid-styrene copolymers, carboxyvinyl polymers, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymers and carboxymethyl cellulose.
  • The amount of these film-forming polymers to be incorporated into the external skin care composition according to the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 60% by weight, particularly 0.005 to 40% by weight from the viewpoints of the feeling of the resulting external skin care composition upon use and stability.
  • Various kinds of optional components commonly used may be suitably incorporated in the external skin care compositions according to the present invention. For example, surfactants, oils, sterols, amino acids, moisturizers, powders, ultraviolet absorbents, gelling agents, antiinflammatory agents, antioxidants, pH adjusters and other components.
  • The external skin care composition according to the present invention may be prepared in any form, such as a solubilization system, emulsification system, powder-dispersed solubilization system, powder-dispersed emulsification system or powder-dispersed oil system, in accordance with a method known per se in the art, and can be used for a make-up cosmetic such as a foundation, powder, lip stick, cheek rouge, eye shadow or nail enamel; or a bath additive composition in the form of tablets, capsules, granules, powder or solution.
  • The pH of the external skin care composition according to the present invention is preferably adjusted to 2 to 11, particularly 3 to 9.
    • PREPARATION EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of Eucalyptus Extract
  • Leaves of Eucalyptus globulus Labillardiere were cut into pieces, and a mixed solvent (20:80; 100 ml) of water and 1,3-butanediol was added to the cut pieces (10 g) to conduct extraction at room temperature for 24 hours while sometimes stirring the mixture. The resultant extract was then filtered, and the filtrate was left at rest for 7 days at 5° C. to age the filtrate, and dregs and precipitate formed were separated by filtration. Water (100 ml) was added to the resultant filtrate, and the mixture was concentrated to about 70 ml at 40° C. under reduced pressure. After this process was repeated 3 times, water and 1,3-butanediol were added in such a manner that the concentration of 1,3-butanediol was adjusted to 80 v/v %, and the whole solution amounted to 100 ml.
    • PREPARATION EXAMPLE 2
  • Plant extracts shown in Table 1 were prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
    TABLE 1
    Plant extract Plant Extraction solvent
    Hop extract Female spikes of Humulus 1,3-Butanediol
    lupulus
    Ginger extract Rhizome of Zingiber Water:ethanol = 50:50
    officinale Roscoe
    Gambier extract Leaves or young branches of Water→water:ethanol = 50:50
    Uncaria gambir Roxburgh
    Rose fruit extract Fruits of Rosa multiflora Water:ethanol = 50:50
    Thunberg
    Marronnier extract Seeds of Aesculus Water:1,3-butanediol = 50:50
    hippocastanum Linne
    Lily extract Bulb of Lilium candidum) Water:1,3-butanediol = 50:50
    Coicis semen extract Seeds of Coix lacryma-jobi Water:1,3-butanediol = 50:50
    Linne var. ma-yuen Stapf from
    which a seed coat has been
    removed
    Cattail extract Flower spikes of Typha Water:1,3-butanediol = 10:90
    angustifolia linne
    Loquat leaf extract Leaves of Eriobotrya Japonica Water:1,3-butanediol = 10:90
    Lindley
    Cape jasmine extract Fruits of Gardenia 1,3-Butanediol
    jasminoides Ellis
    Ginseng extract Root of Panax ginseng C. A. Water:ethanol = 50:50
    Meyer
    Saponaria officinalis Leaves of Saponaria Water:1,3-butanediol = 50:50
    Linne extract officinalis Linne
    White birch extract Bark or xylem of Betula Water:ethanol = 50:50
    pendula Roth
    Hydrangea extract Leaves or branch tips of Water:ethanol = 50:50
    Hydrangea serrata Seringe
    var. thunbergii Sugimoto
    Clove extract Spikes (ears) of Syzygium Water:ethanol = 50:50
    aromaticum Merrill et Perry
    Safflower extract The whole Carthamus Water:ethanol = 50:50
    tinctorius Linne
    Sanguisorba Root or rhizome or Water:ethanol = 50:50
    officinalis Linne Sanguisorba officinalis Linne
    extract
    Iris root extract Rhizome of Iris florentina L. Ethanol
    Sophora flavescens Root of Sophora flavescans Water:ethanol:1,3-
    Aiton extract Aiton butanediol = 50:30:20
    • TEST EXAMPLE 1 Test for Acceleration of Ceramide Production (Cell System)
  • <Method>
  • Human keratinocytes (HK-f; product of Kyokuto Seiyaku Kogyo K.K.) were cultured for 24 hours at 37° C. under 5% CO2 in a medium (GIBCO SFM/-BPE, EGF) containing [14C]-serine (product of Daiichi Pure Chemicals Co., Ltd.) using a 6-well plate. The crude drug extract of eucalyptus, hop or ginger obtained in Preparation Example 1 or 2 was then added to the medium in a proportion of 0.001% by weight or 0.01% by weight in terms of solid content to conduct the culture for additional 24 hours. After the medium was removed, and the wells were washed once with PBS, cells were scraped with a cell scraper to collect them in a test tube. After water (3.6 ml), chloroform (4 ml) and methanol (4 ml) were added to the human keratinocytes in this test tube to mix them, a chloroform layer was isolated and dried to solid. The lipid extracted was developed to the top twice with a solvent 1 (chloroform:methanol:acetic acid=190:9:1) and to 3 cm from the bottom with a solvent 2 (chloroform:methanol:acetone=76:20:4) on a HPTLC plate [silica gel G60 (20×10 cm), Art. 5641; product of Merck Co.]. The counts of ceramide and glycosylceramide on the TLC plate were measured by means of an autoradiograph (BAS2000; manufactured by Fuji Photo Film Co., Ltd.).
  • <Results>
  • The results obtained by calculating out an acceleration rate of ceramide production with the acceleration rate of a control, to which no crude drug extract was added, regarded as 1.0 are shown in FIG. 1. As apparent from FIG. 1, all extracts of eucalyptus, hop and ginger were observed having a ceramide production-accelerating effect on human keratinocytes.
    • TEST EXAMPLE 2 Test for Acceleration of Ceramide Production (Animal System)
  • <Method>
  • The plant extract (0.1% by weight, 0.01% by weight or 0.001% by weight in terms of solid content) of eucalyptus, hop or ginger obtained in Preparation Example 1 or 2, which had been diluted with a 7:3 mixed solvent of propylene glycol and ethanol, was applied to the back of a hairless mouse SKHI for 2 weeks, and the skin was then cut out of the back. The skin was subjected to a heat treatment at 60° C. for 60 seconds, thereby peeling the epidermis from the skin. The epidermis was divided into halves, and the horny layer was prepared from one of them using 0.5% trypsin. After the epidermis and horny layer were lyophilized, and their weights were measured, lipid extraction was conducted in accordance with the Bligh/Dyer method (chloroform:methanol:water=4:4:3.6), and the extracts were subjected to HPTLC in the same manner as in Test Example 1. After development, the plate was immersed in a solution containing 8% by weight of phosphoric acid and 10% by weight of copper sulfate to conduct printing at 160° C. for 15 minutes, and ceramide was then determined by means of a densitometer (Bio•Image; manufactured by Bio-Image Co.).
  • <Results>
  • The results obtained by calculating out a quantitative proportion of ceramide with the amount of ceramide in a control, to which no crude drug extract was added, regarded as 1.0 are shown in FIG. 2. As apparent from FIG. 2, all extracts of eucalyptus, hop and ginger were observed having an effect of increasing the amounts of ceramide in the epidermis and horny layer.
    • TEST EXAMPLE 3 Test for Acceleration of Ceramide Production (Cell System)
  • <Method>
  • A test for acceleration of ceramide production was conducted in the same manner as in Test Example 1 except that the extracts of gambier, rose fruit, marronnier, lily, Coicis semen, cattail, loquat, cape jasmine, ginseng, Saponaria officinalis Linne, white birch, hydrangea, clove, safflower, Sanguisorba officinalis Linne, iris root and Sophora flavescens Aiton obtained in Preparation Example 2 were separately used.
  • <Results>
  • The results obtained by calculating out an acceleration rate of ceramide production with the acceleration rate of a control, to which no crude drug extract was added, regarded as 1.0 are shown in FIG. 3. As apparent from FIG. 3, all the extracts were observed having a ceramide production-accelerating effect on human keratinocytes.
    • TEST EXAMPLE 4 EXAMPLES 1 TO 4 AND COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 1 to 4
  • Emulsification type cosmetic compositions having their corresponding formulations shown in Table 2 were prepared in a method known per se in the art to evaluate them as to effects of enhancing the moisturizing function and barrier function of the skin and the improvement rate of skin roughness.
  • (Evaluation Method)
  • Chosen as volunteers in winter were 10 women of 20 to 40 years of old who had skin roughness on their both cheeks. Each of the above-prepared external skin care preparations was applied to the left and right cheeks of each volunteer 3 times a day. On the following day of the completion of the 3-week application test, evaluation was made with respect to the following items. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • (1) Effect of Enhancing a Moisturizing Function:
  • After washing the face with warm water of 37° C., each volunteer was allowed to rest for 30 minutes in a room which was air-conditioned at 20° and 40% humidity. The water content of her horny layer was then measured by an impedance meter (manufactured by IBS Company). The measured value was indicated by an average value ±standard error. A higher measured value indicates that the test sample has a higher effect for enhancing the moisturizing function of the skin.
  • (2) Effect of Enhancing the Barrier Function of the Skin:
  • A transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured by means of a Hydrometer (manufactured by Meeco Co.) in accordance with a method known per se in the art. A lower transepidermal water loss indicates that the test sample has a higher effect for enhancing the water-retaining function and barrier function of the skin.
  • (3) Improvement Rate of Skin Roughness:
  • Skin roughness was observed visually and ranked in accordance with the following standard. Each score was indicated by an average value ± standard error. A lower score indicates a higher improvement rate of skin roughness.
      • 0: No skin roughness was observed;
      • 1: Slight skin roughness was observed;
      • 2: Skin roughness was observed;
      • 3: Rather severe skin roughness was observed;
  • 4: Severe skin roughness was observed.
    TABLE 2
    Example Comparative Example
    1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4
    Eucalyptus extract (in terms of 0.01 0.02 0.02 — — 0.01 — —
    solids)
    Ginger extract (in terms of — — — 0.02 — — — —
    solids)
    Pullulan 2.0 2.0 1.0 — — 2.0 2.0
    Polyethylene glycol*1 — — 1.0 — — — — —
    Alkyl acrylate copolymer*2 — — — 1.0 — — — —
    Polyvinyl pyrrolidone*3 — — — 1.2 — — — —
    Cholesterol — — — — — — — 0.5
    Hydrogenated, purified soybean — — — — — — — 1.0
    lecithin
    Sorbitan monostearate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
    2-Octyldodecyl myristate 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0
    Squalane 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
    succinic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
    Potassium succinate trihydrate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
    Purified water Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal.
    Water content in the horny layer 25.5 ± 3.3  27.0 ± 2.9  23.6 ± 2.6  27.5 ± 2.5  7.2 ± 1.0 8.5 ± 0.6 9.0 ± 1.0 9.5 ± 1.0
    (μmoh)
    Transepidermal water loss 7 5 5 4 25 22 20 21
    (g/m2 · hr)
    Score of skin roughness 0.9 ± 0.3 0.9 ± 0.2 0.8 ± 0.2 0.7 ± 0.2 3.0 ± 0.4 2.8 ± 0.8 2.4 ± 0.3 2.4 ± 0.3

    *1PEG-1540, product of Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd.

    *2Iodosol GH810, product of Kanebo NSC Ltd.

    *3Rubisquall K-90, product of BASF Japan Ltd.
    • TEST EXAMPLE 5
  • Emulsification type cosmetic compositions were prepared in the same manner as in Test Example 4 except that extracts of hop, gambier, rose fruit, marronnier, lily, Coicis semen, cattail, loquat leaf, cape jasmine, ginseng, Saponaria officinalis Linne, white birch, hydrangea, clove, safflower, Sanguisorba officinalis Linne, iris root and Sophora flavescens Aiton set forth in Table 1 were separately incorporated in place of the eucalyptus extract in the formulation of Test Example 4 shown in Table 2, and evaluated as to effects of enhancing the moisturizing function and barrier function of the skin and the improvement rate of skin roughness in the same manner as in Test Example 4. As a result, all the emulsification type cosmetic compositions were found to have excellent effects.
    • EXAMPLE 5 Toilet Lotion
  • A toilet lotion having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
    (wt. %)
    Eucalyptus extract (in terms of solids) 0.01
    Polyethylene glycol*1 1.00
    Polyoxyethylene (29) sorbitan monolaurate 1.50
    Glycerol 2.00
    Paraben 0.10
    Purified water Balance

    *1PEG-1540, product of Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd.
    • EXAMPLE 6 O/W Type Emulsion
  • An O/W type emulsion having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
    (wt. %)
    Eucalyptus extract (in terms of solids) 0.02
    Polyethylene glycol*1 1.00
    Pullulan*2 0.40
    Cetyl alcohol 1.00
    Vaseline 2.00
    Squalane 6.00
    Dimethyl polysiloxane 2.00
    Glycerol 2.00
    Pseudoceramide*3 1.00
    Polyoxyethylene (10) monooleate 1.00
    Glycerol monostearate 1.00
    Acid hetero-polysaccharide derived from 2.00
    callus of plant*4
    Paraben 0.20
    Purified water Balance

    *1PEG-2000, product of Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd.

    *2Pullulan PI-20, product of Hayashibara Company, Ltd.

    *3N-(3-Hexadecyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)-N-2-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide.

    *41% by weight aqueous solution of tuberose polysaccharide.
    • EXAMPLE 7 W/O Type Cream
  • A W/O type cream having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
    (wt. %)
    Eucalyptus extract (in terms of solids) 0.02
    Alkyl acrylate copolymer*1 1.30
    Polyvinyl pyrrolidone*2 0.70
    Dimethyl polysiloxane 10.00
    Methylphenyl polysiloxane 3.00
    Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 12.00
    Polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone 5.00
    1-3-Butylene glycol 6.00
    Pseudoceramide*3 1.20
    Paraben 0.20
    Perfume base Trace amount
    Purified water Balance

    *1Iodosol GH810, product of Kanebo NSC Ltd.

    *2Rubisquall K-90, product of BASF Japan Ltd.

    *3N-(3-Hexadecyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)-N-2-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide.
    • EXAMPLE 8 Sunscreen Composition
  • A sunscreen composition having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
    (wt. %)
    Ginger extract (in terms of solids) 0.01
    Alkyl acrylate copolymer*1 0.80
    Polyethylene glycol*2 1.00
    Octyl p-methoxycinnamate 5.00
    Silicon-coated zinc oxide 6.00
    Silicon-coated titanium oxide 0.50
    Dimethyl polysiloxane 5.00
    Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 20.00
    Polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone 3.00
    Ethanol 3.00
    Glycerol 3.00
    Magnesium sulfate 1.00
    Paraben 0.20
    Perfume base Trace amount
    Purified water Balance

    *1Iodosol GH810, product of Kanebo NSC Ltd.

    *2PEG-4000S, product of Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd.
    • EXAMPLE 9 Cosmetic Jelly
  • A cosmetic jelly having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
    (wt. %)
    Ginger extract (in terms of solids) 0.01
    Polyethylene glycol*2 0.50
    Xanthan gum*2 0.20
    Glycerol 3.00
    Ethanol 3.00
    Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.50
    Potassium hydroxide 0.15
    Polyoxyethylene hardened castor oil 1.00
    Citric acid 0.80
    Trisodium citrate 0.80
    Nylon powder 1.00
    Paraben 0.10
    Perfume base Trace amount
    Purified water Balance

    *1PEG-2000, product of Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd.

    *2Neosoft XKK, product of Kohjin Co., Ltd.
    • EXAMPLE 10 Liquid Bath Additive Composition
  • A liquid bath additive composition having the following composition was prepared in accordance with a method known per se in the art.
    (wt. %)
    Eucalyptus extract (in terms of solids) 0.02
    Pseudoceramide*1 0.10
    Isopropyl myristate 15.00
    Liquid paraffin Balance
    Polyoxyethylene (12) oleyl ether 10.00
    Polyoxyethylene (6) oleyl ether 6.00
    Acid hetero-polysaccharide derived from 2.00
    callus of plant*2
    Paraben 0.30
    Perfume base Trace amount

    *1N-(3-Hexadecyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)-N-2-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide.

    *21% by weight aqueous solution of tuberose polysaccharide.
  • The Japanese priority document JP11-128255 filed on May 10, 1999 is hereby incorporated, in its entirety, by reference.

Claims (24)

1. An external skin care composition comprising a ceramide production-accelerating agent and a film forming polymer, wherein the ceramide production-accelerating agent is (i) at least one plant selected from the group consisting of eucalyptus, hop, zingiber, Uncaria gambir Roxburgh, Rosa multiflora Thunberg, lily, Job's tears, cattail, loquat, cape jasmine, Saponaria officinalis Linne, white birch, hydrangea, clove, safflower, Sanguisorba officinalis Linne, and Sophora flavescens Aiton, or an extract, steam distilled product or pressed product of said plant: (ii) at least one member selected from the group consisting of nicametate citrate, quinolinic acid, pyridine-3,5-dicarboxylic acid, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate, nicotinic acid mononucleotide, nicotinyl alcohol and tartaric acid nicotinyl alcohol; or a mixture of (i) and (ii).
2-3. (Cancelled)
4. The external skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one member selected from the group consisting of natural polymers, acrylic resins, silicones, celluloses, alkyd resins, carboxyvinyl polymers, olefin-maleic anhydride copolymers and salts thereof, epoxy resins, polymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, amphoteric polymers, and synthetic polyelectrolytes.
5. The external skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one member selected from the group consisting of mucopolysaccharides, silicones, ionic group-containing polymers, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyethylene glycol, polyacrylamide and alkyl acrylate copolymers.
6. The external skin care composition of claim 1, wherein said ceramide production-accelerating agent is present in an amount of 0.00001 to 20% by weight.
7. The external skin care composition of claim 1, wherein said ceramide-production accelerating agent is present in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight.
8. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one natural polymer selected from the group consisting of proteins, collagen, chitin, chitosan, gum arabic, guar gum, locust bean gum, xantham gum, acid hetero-polysaccharides prepared from the callus of plants of the genus Polanthes L., carrageenan, pullalan, pectin, dextrin, quince (Cydonia oblongata), agar, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, methyl polyglutamate, ethyl polyglutamate, sodium alginate, potassium alginate, and propylene glycol alginate.
9. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one acrylic resin selected from the group consisting of polyacrylic acid, poly(methyl acrylate), poly(ethyl acrylate), poly(butyl acrylate), polyacrylamide, poly(N-isopropylacrylamide), ammonium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate, crosslinked sodium polyacrylate, poly methacrylic acid, poly(methyl methacrylate), poly(ethyl methacrylate), poly(butyl methacrylate), polymethacrylamide, sodium methacrylate, acrylic acid-styrene-ammonium methacrylate copolmyers, acrylic acid-styrene copolymers, acrylic acid-methacrylamide copolymers, alkyl acrylate-styrene copolymers, alkyl acrylate-styrene copolymers, alkyl acrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-acrylamide-acrylic acid copolymers, ethyl acrylate-butyl acrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-ethyl methacrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-butyl acrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-ethyl methacrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-methyl methacrylate-acrylic acid copolymers, ethyl acrylate-methyl methacrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate-methacrylic acid copolymers, octyl acrylate-styrene copolymers, octyl acrylate-vinyl acetate copolymers, hydroxypropyl acrylate-butylaminoethyl methacrylate-acrylic acid acrylamide copolymers, butyl acrylate-ethyl hydroxymethacrylate copolymers, butyl acrylate-hydroxymethacrylic acid copolymers, butyl acrylate-methacrylic acid copolymers, butyl acrylate-vinyl acetate copolymers, methyl acrylate-ethyl acrylate copolymers, methyl acrylate-styrene copolymers, methoxyethyl acrylate-hydroxyethyl acrylate-butyl acrylate copolymers, methoxyethyl acrylate-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, acrylic resin alkanolamines, methacrylic acid-styrene copolymers, methacrylic acid-butyl methacrylate copolymers, methacrylic acid-methyl methacrylate copolymers, and methyl methacrylate-butyl acrylate-octyl acrylate copolymers.
10. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one silicone selected from the group consisting of alkyl-modified silicones, oxazoline-modified silicones, dimethylsiloxane-methylcetyloxysiloxane copolymers, and high molecular weight polysiloxanes.
11. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one cellulose selected from the group consisting of methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, cationized cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, and hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose.
12. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one alkyd resin selected from the group consisting of alkyd resins of isophthalic acid, epoxy-modified alkyd resins of phthalic acid, alkyd resins of succinic acid, alkyd resins comprising cyclohexane groups, alkyd resins comprising cyclohexene groups, alkyd resins of phthalic acid, and rosin-modified alkyd resins of maleic acid.
13. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one carboxyvinyl polymer selected from the group consisting of carboxyvinyl polymers, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymers, and calcium or potassium salts thereof.
14. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one olefin-maleic anhydride copolymers or salt thereof selected from the group consisting of ethylene-maleic anhydride copolymers and isobutylene-sodium maleic anhydride copolymers.
15. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one epoxy resin selected from the group consisting of bisphenol A epoxy resin stearic acid esters, epoxy bisphenol A epoxy resin ricinoleic acid esters, epoxy resin beef tallow fatty acid esters, and epoxy resin whale oil fatty acid esters.
16. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is at least one vinylpyrrolidone polymer selected from the group consisting of poly(vinyl pyrrolidone), vinylpyrrolidone-styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, and diethyl sulfate vinylpyrrolidone-N,N-dimethylaminoethyl-methacrylic acid copolymers.
17. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is a N-methacryloylethyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-N-methyl-carboxybetaine-butyl methacrylate copolymer.
18. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride).
19. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is present in an amount of 0.001 to 60% by weight.
20. The external skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the film-forming polymer is present in an amount of 0.005 to 40% by weight.
21. The external skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one surfactant, oil, sterol, amino acid, moisturizer, powder, ultraviolet absorbent, gelling agent, antiinflammatory agent, antioxidant, and pH adjuster.
22. A cosmetic comprising the composition of claim 1.
23. The cosmetic of claim 22, wherein said cosmetic is selected from the group consisting of a foundation, a powder, a lip stick, a cheek rouge, an eye shadow, a nail enamel, and a bath additive.
24. The external skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the composition has apH of 2 to 11.
25. The external skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the composition has a pH of 3 to 9.
US10/915,332 1999-05-10 2004-08-11 External skin care composition Abandoned US20050013790A1 (en)

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US20220387290A1 (en) * 2019-02-15 2022-12-08 Isp Investments Llc Sunscreen compositions and method of use thereof
CN115212157A (en) * 2022-07-14 2022-10-21 广东瀚润生物科技有限公司 Preparation method and application of natural plant extract compound herbal raw materials for whitening, removing freckles and resisting aging

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EP1051965A2 (en) 2000-11-15
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JP4035258B2 (en) 2008-01-16
US6878378B1 (en) 2005-04-12

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