US2069941A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 9, 1937. CANTELMO v 2,069,941 I METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed April 1, 19:55 i

ATTORNEY Patented Feb. 9, 1937 UNITED STATES PATET ()FFICE 2 Claims.

The present invention relates generally to the art of making shoes and, more particularly, to an improved method of making shoes, to inner soles utilized in said method, and to shoe made thereby.

According to one method of making shoes, it has been the practice heretofore in lasting the upper, to secure the marginal edge portions of the upper in overlying relation to the inner sole by means of metal staples passing through said marginal portions and penetrating the inner sole to hold the upper in lasted relation, said staples being removed after the welt is stitched to the upper and the inner sole. This method has been found undesirable for the reason that it is difficult to remove the staples and for the further reason that one or more of such staples may not be removed, usually through oversight on the part of the shoemaker. The failure to remove all of the staples is a serious disadvantage because such staples that may remain in the shoe become loose and find their way to various portions of the shoe where they may do considerable damage to the material thereof. It is therefore an object of the present invention to obviate these disadvantages and, more particularly, it is an object of the invention to provide an improved method of securing the upper in lasted relation by means of staples in such manner as to facilitate the removal of the staples and to eliminate the possibility of failure to remove such staples during the manufacture of the shoe.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved inner sole for use in the manufacture of shoes according to the present invention.

The above objects of the invention and other objects ancillary thereto will best be understood from the following description considered in connection with the accompanying drawing.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of an inner sole utilized in the method of making shoes according to the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a sectional view on the line 22 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, showing a modification.

Figs. 4, 5 and 6 are fragmentary sectional views illustrating steps in the present method of making shoes.

Fig. '7 is a bottom plan view illustrating the method of making shoes according to the present invention.

In performing the method of the present invention, there is preferably utilized a specially constructed insole Ill illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. Said insole may be of any suitable material, preferably leather of suitable thickness for use in a welt shoe and the marginal portion l2 thereof, extending forwardly from the point l4 adjacent the heel-breast line at one side thereof around the toe to a point It adjacent the heel-breast line at the other side thereof, is reduced defining a shoulder 18 substantially coextensive with said marginal portion 12 of reduced thickness. At the shank of the innersole, the reduced portion 52 is bevelled as indicated at E3. Forwardly of the shoulder l8 and extending substantially coextensive therewith and generally in a direction parallel thereto, there is provided a channel 20 which extends obliquely downwardly toward the marginal edge portion [2, forming a lip 28, as best shown in Fig. 2. A strip 22 or tape of fabric such as canvas or similarly strong material is stitched at each side of the innersole 19 to the bottom surface thereof by a line of through-and-through stitching 24 located adjacent said shoulder l8 and extends from substantially the heel-breast line to the toe portion 15. As shown in Fig. 2, the strip 22 is a looped strip. While said looped strip is preferred as it affords increased strength and rigidity, a strip 23 of single thickness may be utilized instead of said looped strip. As will presently appear, the fabric strip secured to the inner sole is utilized, according to the present invention, for securing the marginal side portions of the upper in position prior to the stitching of the welt to the upper and to the insole. Hence, for convenience in reference, said strip may be referred to as a stapling strip.

The inner sole l0 provided with the tapes or stapling strips 22 is mounted on a last L with the tapes uppermost and then the upper 26 of the shoe is lasted and held temporarily in lasted relation with respect to the inner sole ID by means of a plurality of staples 28 which pass through the marginal portions of the upper and the stapling strip 22, but without extending into the inner sole Hi. This step in the method of making shoes according to the present invention is illustrated in Fig. 4. After the side lasting operation, the toe and heel portions may be lasted in accordance with the well-known method ordinarily employed in making Goodyear welt shoes. Then, as illustrated in Fig. 5, the welt 36 is secured to the upper 26 and to the insole Ill by the inseam 32 comprising a line of stitching disposed within the channel 2!) and extending through the between substance of the insole. Any looseness in the upper is taken up by the action of the inseam 32 in forcing the welted portion of the upper 36 into engagement with the shoulder [8, as best shown in Fig. 5.

After the welt 30 is stitched to the upper and to the insole as illustrated in Fig. 5, the shoe bottom is trimmed to remove, by a trimming operation, the projecting portions of the welt, upper, and stapling strip which extend above the surface of the insole so that the trimmed edges of said portions lie close to said surface of the insole, as illustrated in Fig. 6, and there remains a narrow portion 25 of the tapes 22 and a reduced inner edge portion 3| of the welt 30. As the staples 28 are disposed at a substantial distance from the trimming line, it will be readily apparent that the trimming operation is efiective to remove all the said staples from the shoe, since said staples are carried by the marginal portions of the upper and by the stapling strip which are removed by the trimming operation so that it is impossible for the shoemaker to neglect to remove said staples in making the shoe. After the trimming operation and the other operations well known to those skilled in the art are performed, the out-sole 34 may be applied and secured in the usual manner by a line of stitching 36, as illustrated in Fig. 6, and the shoe is completed in the usual way.

While the method of making shoes according to the present invention has been described with reference -to the use of the looped stapling strip 22, it will be understood that the same steps in the method are followed when utilizing an in-sole provided with a stapling strip 23 of single thickness. Further it will be understood that the present method may be employed in connection with other types of insoles provided with stapling strips of other constructions having the function of the stapling strip described herein, and that certain changes in the method will occur to those skilled in the art, in view of the present disclosures. Therefore, I do not wish to be limited to the precise constructions herein described and illustrated except as may be required by the appended claims and the prior art.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of making shoes which comprises mounting on a last a shouldered and channeled insole having a tape attached to its between substance, lasting an upper and attaching the marginal edge portions thereof to said tape, securing a welt and said upper and insole together by stitching disposed in said channel and extending through said between substance, and then trimming 01f said tape and marginal edge portions of the upper close to the channeled surface of said insole.

2. The method of making shoes which comprises mounting on alast a shouldered and channeled insole having a tape attached to its between substance by stitching extending from one edge of the tape into the insole and the other edge being free, lasting an upper and stapling the marginal edge portions thereof to said tape adjacent its free edge, securing a welt and said upper and insole together by stitching disposed in said channel and extending through said between substance, and then trimming off said tape and marginal edge portions of the upper close to the channeled surface of said insole.

JAMES CANTELMO.

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