US1934352A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 7, M334 w. G. HEIBER Er AL, p934352 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Sept. 171952 INVENTORS William Heier Patented Nov. 7, 1,933

UNITED STATE BIETHOD OF MAKING SHOES William G. Heiber and Emil R.

N. Y., assignors to William business as William Heibe Meng, Rochester, G. Heiber, doing & Son, Rochester,

Application September 17, 1932 Serial No. 633,598

8 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of making shoes, and contains in part subject matter common to application Serial No. 598,488, iiled March 12, 1932.

The invention has for its principal object to afford a method of making soft or hard soled shoes of the welt type that are durable and may be produced at a lower cost of manufacture and of neater appearance than with processes heretofore followed.

A further object of theinvention is to afford a method by which an upper having a welt first stitched thereto is lasted in a quick and econom-A ical way, the outer edge vof the welt being then supported while the outer sole is' cemented to it.

A'further purpose of the invention is the provision of a method by which tacks can be dgne away with for holding the upper on to the last while the sole is cemented and a single instrumentality employed for lasting the upper and also supporting the welt while the outer sole is cemented to it.

Still another object of the inventionis to afford a method by which the lasting operation can be eiected through clamping instrumentalities engageable between the welt and upper of a prewelted shoe to drawAthe welt and edges of the upper under the last, such lasting means being left in position while the outer sole is cemented to the welt 'and serving as a support for the welt.

Another object of the inventionis to further reduce the cost of operation by applyingcement to the under side of the Welt before it is stitched to the upper and to ornament the upper side of the welt by the same operation that serves to causethe outer sole to adhere to the welt.

To these and other ends, the invention consists in the method that will appear more clearly from the following description when read in conjunction with the accompanying drawing, the novel features being pointed 'out in the claims at the end of the specification.

' In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a transverse section of a last and a prewelted upper appliedI thereto, illustrating one possible way of carrying out the invention;

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the ller and outer sole attached, with the clamping instrumentalities in position between the upper and welt; f

Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the parts illustrated in Fig. 1, and

Fig. 4 is an inverted plan view.

In carrying out the method according to the lpreferred procedure, the upper 1 is formed of suitable material such as soft pliable leather, and a welt 2, which has previously been treated with latex or other suitable adhesive on its under surface, is stitched at 4 to the lower free edge of the upper.

'Ihe last is then inserted into the upper which is pulled over the bottom of the last by any suitable means such as a wire or other device until it is in proper position to receive the clamp that is positioned between the welt 2 and the adjacent 65 edges of the upper 1, as shown in Fig. 2. By drawing the members of the clamp together and securing them in clamping position, the upper is tightly lasted entirely around the last and held in such position without the use of any other instrumentalities luntil the outer sole is attached.

I f desired to use an insole, the latter is positioned between the under side of the last and the inturned edges of the upper and cemented to the upper, as shown in Fig. 1. While it is preferable to` employ the clamp for effecting the lasting operation, as already described, the upper may be lasted in some other way and held in positionloy tacks 5, as in Fig. 1, until the clamp is applied,

as in Fig. 2. But we prefer to use the clamp for 80 both lasting and holding the upper, and thus entirely do away with the use of tacks, as at 5.

A suitable filler 6 is applied substantially ush with v the lower surface of the welt before the outer sole 22 is secured in position, such filler being 85 constructed of felt, or of granulated cork mixed with glue or cement and held in position by glue or cement. y v

The clamp employed for lasting the upper end for supporting the welt when the outer sole is cemented thereto comprises two parts '7 and 8 which are cut away on adjacent sides to afford an opening at the center adapted to conform to al last which' it is designed to fit. The parts 'I and 8 are hinged together at one corner by a hinge member 9 which is preferably U-shaped in crosssection so as to embrace both sides ofthe parts 7 and 8. The hinge is pivoted to the parts 7 and 8 by means of pins or studs 11 and 12.

The parts '7 and 8 of the clamp are preferably 100 in the form of plates of sheet metaland so constructed that when in clamping position, as shown in Fig. 4, the outer contour of the clamp is substantially that of a rectangle. The adjacent or meeting edges of the plates 7 and 8 are preferably 105 along the straight lines 13 and 14, one of which extends from the corner to the central opening of the clamp while the other meetingrline 14 is along the longitudinal axis of the clamp, the arrangement being such as to afford a maximum leverage when drawing the clamping plates together.

One of the meeting lines between the plates of the clamp is embraced by the hinge 9 while the other meeting line is embraced by a latch or locking member 15 which acts to draw the clamping plates into engagement with a shoe upper so as to last the same and hold it in such position while the outer sole is cemented to the welt. The latch 15 is pivoted at 16 to the part 'l and is substantially U-shaped in cross-section so as to embrace the opposite surfaces of the parts '7 and 8 to hold them in substantially the same plane. A stud or pin 17 in the latch is' arranged to engage a notch formed in the edge of the plate 8 and acts to retain the clamping members in tight engagement with the shoe. When the latch is swung on its pivot from engagement with the plate 8, the plates. 'I and 8 are free to swing away from each other and to release the shoe.

The clamping members or plates are substantially flat and arranged in the same plane except for a slight transverse bending at 18 and 19'so as to conform to the shape of the bottom of the last. The shoeengaging portions or inner edges of the clamping plates dening the enlarged opening in the center are tapered downwardly and inwardly as at 21, to form a clearance for the upperon the upper side of the clamp, while maintaining a substantially plane surface on the under side of the clamp for engaging and supporting the outwardly projecting free portion of the welt. That is to say,` the upper tapered surface l21 and the'lower substantially plane surface on the shoe engaging edges of the clamp are shaped to conform tothe space between the upper and welt and to enable the clamp to engage the upper tightly and draw it over the last to its proper position to receive the outer sole.

.After the clamp is thus positioned, the outer sole 22 is cemented to the illler and welt. which.

' latter has previously had an adhesive applied thereto, this operation being effected by placing the parts in a suitable pressure-applying machine that holds thev last with the upper, welt and clamp and permits forcing the outer sole against the welt under sufficient pressure to cause a tight and permanent adherence. During this operation, the under surface of the clamp supports the free pliable edge of the welt so that the outer sole can be pressed against the welt with requisite pressure, and a uniformity of attachment secured between the welt and the sole. .After the outerl sole has been applied in this manner, the pressure.

operation completed and the cement is set, the clamp is removed and the outer sole and welt ilnished in the usual manner.-

By the use of such a clamp, a wide welt can be employed in a soft soled shoe, giving a greaterv surface contact between the welt and outer sole and thus increasing the efliciency and durability of the product. Such a welt can be stitched to the lower edge of the upper, which would be formed so as to project to a greater extent under the last, or the welt could project inwardly over the last beyond the upper if desirable. y l

The outer sole can `be formed of either soft pliable leather or of hard sole leather and after it is cemented to the welt in the manner described, the sole may be stitched to the welt as usual the purpose of aiiixing the sole to the welt Laagste against the sole and welt, or the sole may be supported and pressure applied against the last be formed the welt during the 'pressure-applying operation. 4To eiect this, the lower surfaces of the clamping members at the shoe engaging portions are-formed with a sharp fluting design 23 adjacent to and surrounding the enlarged opening at the center of the, clamp. When the clamping plates engage the upper in lasting re lation, the fluting-desgn rests uponand engages the upper surface of the welt, so that when pres? sure is applied to the outer sole, the welt is pressed into close contact with the clampv and the imprintof. the iiuting design is thereby transferred to the Welt.

The method may be practicedin various ways without departing from the underlying 4novel-.fea-

ltures of the invention, and this application is intended to cover any departures or modified procedures coming 'within the spirit -of the invention or the scope of the following'claims.-

We claim:

1. The method of making shoes which consists in forming an upper, attaching a welt to the upper, clamping -the upper on to a last by instrumentalities' located between the upper and welt, cementing a vsole to the welt by applying pressure to the sole and welt against said clamping instrumentalities, and simultaneously forming a design on the upper surface of the welt through the pressure against said clamping means.

2. The method of making shoes which consists in forming an upper,stitching a welt to the upper, and lasting the upper by ilrst positioning between the welt and upper asubstantially L-shaped clamping plate having a tapered edge which engages closely between the welt and upper entirely across the toe portion, along one side, and across a part of the heel portion. and thereafter bringing into clamping relation a complementaryplate having va tapered edge which engages closely between the upper and welt along the other side and the remaining .part of the heel portion. l 3. The method of making shoes which consists in forming an upper, stitchinga welt 'to the upper, and lasting the upper by positioning between the upper and welt a substantially ment with the other `side and remaining part of 1465 the heel portion about a pivot at4 oneend of the first mentioned plate.

4. The method of making shoes whichv consists in forming an upper, stitching a weltA to the upper, and lasting the upper by moving a substantially L-shaped plate having a tapered edge laterally into close contact between the upper and welt into engagement with the eritire toe portion, one side, and partof the heel portion of the upper and thereafter bringing a complementary plate having a tapered edge which engages closely between the upper and welt by a swinging motion around one end of the rst mentioned plate into engagement with the othex` side and remaining part of the heel portion.

5. The method of making shoes which consists in clamping an upper on to a last by first moving a substantially L-shaped plate having a tapered edge laterally into close contact between the upper and welt into engagement with the entire toe portion, one side, and part of the heel portion, thereafter positioning a complementary plate having a tapered edge into close contact between the upper and welt in engagement with the other side and remaining part of the heel portion, and holding said plates in clamping relation while cementing a sole to the welt by pressure of the latter against said plates.

6. The method of making shoes which consists in forming an upper, stitching a welt to the upper, clamping the upper to a last by rst moving a substantially L-shaped plate having a tapered edge laterally into close contact between the upper and welt into engagement with the entire toe portion, one side, and a part of the heel portion, thereafter positioning a complementary plate having a tapered edge into close contact between the welt and upper in engagement with the other side and remaining part of the heel portion by a swinging movement of 7. The method of making shoes which consists in forming an upper, applying cement to the inner surface of a welt, thereafter stitching the welt to the upper, lasting the upper, holding the upper on the last by clamping plates shaped to conform to the last and applied between the upper and welt, and applying cement to a sole and aiixing the sole to said welt by pressure while the upper is held in place on the last by said clamping plates.

8. The method of making shoes which consists in forming an upper, applying cement to the inner surface of a Welt, thereafter stitching the welt to the upper, lasting the upper by moving a plate laterally between the upper and welt and thereafter swinging a complementary plate about a pivot on the first plate and thereby moving the complementary plate between the welt and upper by a lateral swinging movement, said plates having tapered edges that engage closely between the upper and welt entirely around the shoe, locking the plates in clamping relationship, and cementing a sole to the welt while pressing the latter against said plates.

WILLIAM G. HEIBER. ENEL R. MIENG. Y'

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