US1885257A - Method of making shoes and heels - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 1, 1932. N. HARIG 1,885,257

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES AND HEELS Filed March 23, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Nov. 1, 1932. N. HARlG METHOD OF MAKING SHOES AND HEELS Filed March 23, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Nov. 1 1932 INTKOLAUS ARIG, or rmivmsnivs, rnLnwmngrnQennmnng Assien'on ,T'o UNi'rEn sHoE MACHINERY CORPORATION, Fv rnrn'nsoix new JERSEY, a oonronnrrron OF NEW JERSEY mmnon or MAKING sno'ns AND HEELS Application filed March 2a, 1928, Serial Matt a and in Germany Apri1 13, i927, 5

This invention relates to improvements in methods of making shoes and to improvements in shoes and heelsaas articles of manufacture. The invention is herein illustrated in its application to one-piece Louis heels and shoes provided with such heels and'to methods of making such heels and shoes, although incertain aspects the invention is not necessarily restricted to heels or shoes of the particular types indicated. It is customary to cover the rear and sides of a Louis heel before the heel is attached'to a shoe and, after attachment of the heel, to cover the breast of the heel by a flap integral with the sole of the shoe. In accordance with this practice the breast covering flap is pre-' l'i-minarilyj formed by splitting it from the sole and after the sole and heel have been attached to the shoe the sole flap is adhesively secured in place on the heel breast, trimmed flush with the lateral edges of the breast, and then held against the heel under pressure for a substantial length of time to insure proper setting of the adhesive. The covering of the breast of a heel in this manner requires skilled labor and the expenditure of considerable time. Consequently, it is a relatively expensive operatic One object of the present invention is to avoid the expense and loss of time incident to the covering of breasts of heels in accordance with the method just referred to and yet to insure that the effect obtained in the finished shoe will be as good as or better than would be the case if the more'expensive operation above described had been practised.

'With this object in viewthe invention, in one aspect, resides in an improved method of making shoes in accordance with which, as herein exemplified, the desired eflect'in the finished shoe is obtained without the use of a breast covering split from the sole of the shoe, by coating the bottom surface of the sole and the uncovered breastface of the heel to obliterate the joint between the heel breast and the sole and to simulate the surface a'p' pearance of a heel'breast covering'integral with thelsole, and by finishing a narrow strip at the side of the heel, adjacent to the breast corner to simulate the edge appearance of a heel'breast covering integral withtthesolje of the shoe. p y w The invention further consists in improvements in shoes produced by the practice'of the above-described method and in improvements in Louis heels adapted for useincar rying out that method. 9

The invention will be explained withreference to the accompanying? drawings, in which i Fig. 1 is a view in side elevation of a shoe embodying the present'invention, the shoe being shown. as it appears before certain'finishing'oper'ations have been performed'u'pon the sole and heel; 7 Fig. 2 is a perspective View ofthe .he'el showninFig.1;-

Fig. 3 is aside elevational view of the heel...

as it appears before the side covering.

applied; I v. Fig. 4- is a cross-sectional view taken along the line IV-IVof Fig. 3; 1

- Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a: shoe that shown in Figs. 1 anda'nd 2, but showing the shoe and heel as they appear after all finishing operations have been performed thereon;

F 1g. 6 1s an enlarged CIOSS-SGCtlOIlfLl view of the heel taken along the line of the shoe taken substantially along the VIIIVIII of Fig. 7 v 4 Fig. 9 isa perspective View of a heel illus} trating an alternative method of fitting the seat face of the heel;and v Fig. 10 is a perspective view of a shoe having its seat face fittedto receive a heel such as that shown in Fig.9. p In the drawings theiinventionfhas' been illustrated in connection with one-piece heels as distinguished from heels which are built up from a plurality of lifts or layers.

As illustrated in Figs. 3 and'a 'a Louisheel 14 is provided with grooves 16 in its side faces for the reception of the front margins of a covering 18 for the rearand sides of the heel.

loo

theedges of a breast covering flap split from face formed in the well-knownmanner upon bottom of the heel and are parallel to the lateral edges ofthe heel breast. The grooves 16 are located near but somewhat at'the rear substantiallyiequal tothethickness of the 5 of the edges or corners of the breast so that when the sides of the heel are covered as by the covering 18. and the front margins of the of the' surface of the heel of the heel edges at the shank portion of the outsole of a shoe to which the heel is to be attached. These narrow uncovered portions of the heel in front of the gr0oves 16a're finished to simulate the sole of the'shoeand laid upon the breast face of the heel as willhereinafter be more fully explained. As illustrated in .Fig. 8, the.

edges of the outsoleare roundedalong the shank and, in. order to enhance the effect that a sole flap covers thebreast of the heel, the

narrow uncovered portions orribs formed between the grooves 16 and the breast cor ners, are slmilarly' rounded or beaded as shown at 20, Figs. 3, 4 and 6, to correspond with the rounded cross-sectional contour of 1 V the edges of the shank portion of the sole.

The seat face end of the-heel: has a cupped formation adapting it to fit a heel seat surthe bottom of the shoe. The forwardly .eX-

tending portion of the heel at the upper end of thebreastisshownat 22 in Figs. 2 and 7 as being finished to a feather edge so that no noticeable ridge will be formed where it joins a the sole and the heightwise curvature of the heel breast'is made suchthatit will merge gradually into and blend with the longitudinall curveor arch of the shank portionof the sole as shown at 34 in Fig. 5. The grooves being parallel to the breast edges, the ribs or beads .20 will continue the lines or curves of the sole'edges. At the opposite sides of the heel shown in Figs. 1 to 8, where the upper ends of they uncovered beaded portions 20 terminate, the heel isso shaped that the upper ends ofthe'sebeaded portions will closely embrace the opposite edges of the outsole S in thema'nner clearly shown at 24 in Fig. 8, the sole: being preferably pared away or beveled during the heel seat .fitting operation at these points to adapt it to fitsnugly within the rim ofthe' heel so that a close joint is provided betweenthe rim of the heel and the. lasted-in portions of the shoe upper. In addition, the upper ends of the beaded portions 20 of the heelwhichembrace the edges of. the sole are illustrated in Fig.2 as being made very thin so that they will blend readily with the rounded edges of the sole.

' 'Afterzthe'heelhas been attached to the shoethe breast face of-the heel and the beaded, edge faces 20 aresmoothed or buffed at 2 their upper end portions until. they are flush into the grooves, then'ar with the corresponding surfaces of the sole 7 along the lines where they join the latter, these lines being indicated at 26 in Fig.1. Thereafter the uncovered ribs or beaded p'or 1tions 20 ofthe heel and the breast surface ofthe heel are preferablyfinished to match the finish of the edges and the treadsurface,

respectively, of the sole. In finishing the".

beaded portions of the heel the latter may be first stained or otherwise colored to match the color of the edge of the sole after which they may be waxed or otherwise treated, as-

for example with ---the edge finishingtool V which is used also upon the'jsole edge, so that the color 'and surface characteristics of the sole edge are reproduced in the beaded portions of the heel. In;order that the breast surfaceofthe heel and the tread surface of the solef shall correspond in color a pigment finish mayv be applied both to the sole and to the heel breast. The above-described manner of finishing the beadedportions and the breastfsurface of the heelresults in complete ly obliterating the lines 26 at the joint between the breast of the heel and the sole and as a result the sole edge at each ,side ofthe shoeappearsto be continuous with the corresponding beaded portion ofthe heel, while the tremor the heel andthe bottom ofthe shank of thesole also appear tobe. continuous, as shown in Fig. 5, and the heel has;,the appearance of having its breast. covered by an extension of the sole; If desired, variousornamental and pleasing resultsmaybe obtained byv applying to the heel breastor to. the beaded portions 20,- or toboth these parts. a color finish either contrasting with the color of the sole bottom and sole edge or harmonizing with said color. V WVhile the forwardly extending upperend portion of the heelbreast may be reduced to a feather edge, as hereinbefore described, it

may sometimes be desirable to provide .;a

shoulder 31 of substantial thickness at'the' edge of thisportion of theheel for engagement with a corresponding shoulder 32 in the outsole of the shoe, as indicated in Fig.

11. In applyingto a shoe aheel -such as that shown in Fig. 10 the shoulder 31,0n :the heel is butted against the shoulder 32 on the sole and the breast surface 'of the heel and ;bot-' tom surface of-the sole are bufied until theseinvention, what .I

tirely across the heel at the front end of its seat face and with a breast surface having a heightwise curvature shaped to merge into the lengthwise curvature of the shank portion of the sole of a shoe, attaching the heel to a shoe so as to form a close joint between the upper portion of the heel breast and the sole of the shoe, applying a coating to both,

the bottom of the sole and the breast of the heel to obliterate said joint and simulate the appearance of the surface of a sole flap covering the heel breast, and finishing a narrow strip at each side of the heel adjacent to the respective breast corner to simulate the appearance of the edge of said sole flap.

2. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in fitting a Louis heel to a shoe so as to form a close joint between the upper portion of the heel breast and the bottom surface of the tread sole of the shoe, applying a coating to the bottom surface of 1 the sole and to the uncovered breast face of the heel to obliterate said joint and to simulate the surface appearance of a heel breast covering integral with the sole of the shoe, and the heel adjacent to the breast corner to simulate the edge appearance of a heel breast covering integral with the sole of the shoe.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in forming a bead along the breast edge of each side of a Louis heel and a groove in each side of the heel adjacent to the bead at that side of the heel, applying a cover to the rear and sides of the heel and tucking the opposite lateral edge portions of the cover into said grooves but leaving said beads and the breast face of the heel uncovered, fitting the heel to a shoe so as to form a close joint between the upper portion of the heel breast and the bottom surface of the tread sole of the shoe, applying a coating to the bottom surface of the sole and to the uncovered breast face of the heel to obliterate said joint and to simulate the surface appearance of a heel breast covering integral with the tread sole, and finishing said uncovered beads to match the edge finish of the tread sole to simulate the edge appearance of a heel breast covering integral with the tread sole.

4. In a shoe, the combination with the tread sole, of a Louis heel having an uncovered breast surface merging with the bottom surface of said sole, and uncovered beads severally extending along the opposite lateral edges of the heel breast and merging with the respective lateral edges of the sole to simulate the edge appearance of a heel breast covering integral with the tread sole, the sides of the heel being covered rearwardly of the breast edge beads, and said merging portions of the sole and heel having a coating thereon obliterating the joints between them and imparting a like surface finish to all said portions so that said sole and heel portions will appear to be continuous.

5. A Louis heel having an uncovered breast surface, an uncovered bead extending along each lateral edge of the heel breast, and

a groove in each side of the heel adjacent to v the bead on that side of the heel, the breast surface and thebeads being shaped and ar- I ranged to merge with the bottom surface and N IKOLAUS HARIG.

finishing a narrow strip at the side of V

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