US1614965A - Waistband for trousers and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

.Jam 1s, 1927.

M. MARGQLITH WAISTBAND FOR TROUSERS AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME FiledNOv. 19, 1925 INVENTOR Mordichcx Margolrh Patented Jan. v18, 1927.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

nonncnamaneom'rn, or NEW Yonx, N. Y.

WAISTBAND FOR TROUSERS AND METHODYOF HAKING THE SAME.

applicati@ mea November is, 1925. serial No. 69,958.

, My present invention relates enerally to the manufacture' of trousers and as particular reference to a construction and :method of manufacture of the waist-band portion of the trousers. y

` Where I have attempted to manufacture and complete the waist-bands of trousers by providing a stiifening lo'great deal of labor, including much handwork, is necessary in order to produce a nished construction which is not only of neat outward appearance butpf firm, and workmanlike construction.

The use of a separate lining to cover the stifening interlining necessitates many operations of stitching, both in' the construction of the separate lining itself and in the proc ess of properly associating this lining with the trousers with the stiffening lining therebetween. lining must first be band o f the trousers, and after the stitching is concealedthe separate lining must be attached to the interior edge of the waistband by handfwork so that the stitching will not mar the final appearance. Y the linin is tacked down to completely cover y the inter ining and a curtain portion previously associated withthe lining must. then also be tacked down to the trousers.

It 'is among the principal objects of the Aresent invention to construct a waist-band in a manner which will entail none of these lengthy and expensive operations, and which' eliminates the necessity for a separate lining member, a curtain portion, and which siniplifies the manufacture, and renders it less expensive, by necessitating only two.. stitch- 40 ing operations, neither of which are -made by hand. v

Another object of the invention is .to simplify the manufacture stillv further by eliminatingthe necessity for separate loops to be ,55 attached to the outside of the waistandA in a well-known manner to accommodate the belt. More particularly,'it is an ob]ect of the invention to construct the waist-band in such a manner that the belt may be slidably '50 accommodated within a guiding space along the 'interior of the waist-band.

' N One feature of my invention lies in utilizing only one lining velement instead of the usual two orV three, and attaching it by two substantially parallel spaced lines of machine stitching directly to the trousers; an" in interlining and a sepa- .rate primary lining, I have found that a` In general, the stiffening interattached to the waist` Thereafter disposed on opposite sides of selected portions of a. waist-band so that .the belt` may be passed out of the guiding space and lie exposed along the interiorof the waist-band at the selected portions so that the binding qualities of the belt with respect to the waist of the wearer are greatly increased, and so thattake-up of the belt will not materially affect the outside contour of the waist-band.

In a preferred embodiment, the reinforcing or stifl'ening strip comprises two portions disposed on each side of the waist-band and terminating short of the rear vertical seam and front vertical ope ing of the trousers; and these portions arprovided with slits adjacent to their ends so that the belt will lie exposed along those portions-of the waistband `which includes said seam and said opening. I prefer also to provide a pair of slits at'each side of the waist-band so that the belt maybe exposed at these portions also whereby this exposure will occur at substantially "V intervals.

Another object of the invention is to'provide a method which may be used in conjlmction with trousers wherein a separate waist-band portion is attached to the upper ednge of the trousers without increasing the --actual number of operations.

- A further feature of the invention lies in attaching the reinforcing strip to the trousers in a manner which will slmultaneously attach the waist-band portion to the trousers.

A still further feature lies `in rso attaching the strip that aportion thereofwill serve. as an integral-curtain portion .which will not only conceal one line of stitching but will increase theresemblance of my present construction to that of the usualwell-known waistband.

For the attainment o f the foregoing objects and such other objects as may hereinthe front thereof, the

after .appear 0r be pointed out, Ihave illustrated several forms of the invention in the l accompanying drawings, in which,

Fig. 1 is a perspective View of the upper portion of a, pair of trousers, showingv my waist-band construction, and showing the belt in association therewith;`

Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view taken along the line 2 2 of Fig. 1;

Figs. 3 and 4 are views similar to Fig. 2, showing the invention as applied to trousers having separate waist-band portions; and

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Figs. 2, 3, and 4, showing a further modification.

Referring now to the drawings, and particularly to Figs. 1 and 2, I have shown a pair of trousers 10 having the usual front opening lland rear vertical seam 12. 'Ihe stifening strip comprises two portions 13 and 14 carried along the interior of the upper edge' of the Atrousers and disposed on either side of the trousers, terminating at points short ot' the rear seam 12 and the front opening 11.

Reference to Fig. 2 will disclose clearly how the. stiffening strips 13 and 14 are'applied. rIhe stiii'ening strip 14 is attached along one free edge thereof to the exterior ot' the upper free edge of the trousers 10 by a line of machine stitching 1 5. These free edges are then turned inwardly, preferably through 360, to conceal the stitching 15 and -the free edges, whereby the strip 14 will be broughtinto fiat superposition over the trousers 10. Thereupon a second line of stitching 16 is made along a line substantially parallel to the upper edge and to the line of stitching 15, thereby attaching the strip 14 directly to the trousers 10. The stitching 16 is preferably of a. color substantially like that of the trousers material so that it will not be too conspicuous from the outside.. The lines of stitching 15 and 16 are spaced from each other 'so that a guiding space is provided underneath the strip 14 -and-fbe.-` tween the two lines of stitching to slidably.; accommodate a belt 17. That is, the lspace for the belt is transversely limited in size by the lines of stitching 15 and 16." The width of the strip 14 varies from a maximum at the rear of the trousers to a minimum at maximum widtlrextending a certain predetermined distance toward the front before the change in width takes place. As clearlyshown in Figs. 1 and 2, the maximum width of the strip 14 isapproximately twice the distance between the stitches 15 and 16, and this .width extends, preferably from the rearmost end 18 of each strip to a point 19 just rearward of the. side of the'trousers; continuing around toward the front, the Width gradually decreases "until a minimum is reached which is only slightly greater than the distance between the two lines of stitching. The. additional `may be applied to trousers width of the strips 13 Vand 14 around the rear portion ofJ the trousers serves not only to conceal the upper portions of the pockets 20, but adds firmness and reinforcement of a character which has not been possible heretofore invconstructions wherein a stilfening interlining is covered over by an independent and separate lining. y

In Fig. 3, I have illustratively shown how my construction and method of manufacture arate waistband portion. In such a case, the strip 14 is attached in a similar manner as described hereinbet'ore with reference to Fig. 2 to the upper edge of a waist-band 21; and after turning the free edges inwardly, a liiie of stitching 16 serves to attach the strip 14 to the waist-band 21, and simultaneously to attach the waist-band to the upper edge ot' the trousers 10. In Fig.' 3, I have shown a preferred method of applying the linej ot' stitching 16, wherein the upper edge 22 of the trousers 10 has been turned inwardly so that the line of stitching 16 will be invisible from the outside. Of course it will be evident that in this method of construction, the line of stitching 16 is so made as to attach the strip 14 and the waist-band 21 to the exterior of the upper edge 22, and thereafter the trousers material 10 is turned through 180O to conceal the stitches. Y

Fig. 4 shows a possible method of attaching these various elements together by the single .line of stitching 16, which in this case is made to pass through to the outside of the trousersmaterial 10.

In Fig. 5, I have shown a construction which is substantially identical with that shown in Fig. 3, except that in this case I have formed a plait in the strip 14 along` a line substantially overlying the line of stitching 16 which is subsequently to be made. v,j This plait 23 is disposedaway from the"troiise'rs 1() and the waist-band 21 to form 'three plies; and the line of stitching 16 is made to pass through only the two plies which are closest to these elements. In a construction of this character, the lower portion 24 of the strip 14 constitutes a curtain which will conceal the line of stitching 16 from the inside; and it will be obvious that in a construction of- 'this character the line of stitching 16 is entirely concealed. I have stated in certain of the claims that the stiffening strip is plaited away from the trousers material, and in so doing I meant to cover the idea of plaiting in such manner that these plaits are produced at the expense of the lower part of. said strip, the upper part of said strip being considered as ixed at the upper edge of the trousers.

Referring again to Fig. 1, I have shown a plurality of transverse slits 25 which are preferably substantially perpendicular to the free.' edge, and which extend between the embodying a sepllfiv ian lines of stitching 15 and 16. These slits are arranged in pairs, and a pair is arranged on opposite sides of each ofthe front, side, and

rear portions of the waist-band. As a re. sult, the belt 17 may be made to pass outf wardly of the guiding space at the selected portions so that it will lie exposed within the waist-band as clearly shown in Fig. 1.

For the purpose of lending both strength and good appearance to the construction, I

prefer to make the strips 13 and 14 of, a material in the nature of canvas, and I pre-4 fer to cut the strips along a ybias, that is, obliquely with the warp and weft threads of the canvas, so thatl a certain-resilience is vimparted thereto. By constructing the restruction, and without necessitating the de` tachment of either of the ortions 1 3 and 14. I prefer to utilize a be t made of canvas or other material having a rou hened surface, because I have found that t e exposure of the belt at the rear, front, and sides of the waist-band greatly improves its binding qualities with .respect to the waist ofthe wearer. In other words, by ermitting portherefore intended that these details be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense., J

1. The herein described method of making a waist-band fortrousers, which comprises sewing together at their edges a st iening strlp and trousers material, the'edges thereof pro]ecting in the same direction, turnin said stri over to the interior to concea said stitc es without folding said strip, and sewing said strip by -a line of stitching directlyto the vtrousers and at a distance from the aforesaid sewed ledges suiiicient to accommodate a slidable belt in the space between the stnp and the trousers and between said stitches., l

l2. .The hereindescribed method of making a waist-band for trousers, which comprises sewing a stii'ening strip along a free edge directlyV to the exterior of the upper free edge of the trousers, turning said strip over -to the interior .to conceal said stitches, sewing said strip' without bendinglsa-id stiiening strip directly to the' trousers/'along a line o f'stitchi'ng parallel to the' edge of the trousers and at a distance therefrom suiiicient to accommodate a'slidable belt in the space -between the strip and the trousers and between said stitches, `and providing spaced tions-of the belt to contact directly with the /ilransverse Yslits `in said strip extending beusual shirt of the wearer, the*l shirt is not only prevented from riding upwardly out of the trousers, but the suspension qualities of 'the belt are greatly improved.' Atthe same time, it will be obvious that no discomfort is adorded' by this proximity of the belt because of lthe smooth unbroken internal contour ofthe waist-band. Moreover, an important advantage. lwhich is gained `by permitting the belt to be exposed `at these selected portions lies in thefact that take-up of the belt will not materially alter the conc tour of the waist-band, as is generally the case when the'belt is arranged outside of, .the trousers. i

cases where the normal dimensions of the I have found that even in r `waist-band arey too reat for afgiven wearer,

the trousers willv eiiicientl f suspended without any crlnkl'ing thereo ,v the excess dimension manifesting itself only in a small gap between the ex osed 'portions of the 'belt and the portions o the trousers correspond# ing thereto; from'the outside, this It will be obviousth'atvarious changesin the details afs ,herein'described and"illus= trated for the purpose of explaining thenature of mylinventlon may be made by those pressed in thel appended claims, and it is stitutea curtain'to conceal sai ai is' -invisible andthe trousers appear to 5 tiperfectly.1' 'V tween said lines of stitching-to permit the belt to be passed into and out of selected slits and thereby occupy only selected porf' the interior to conceal said stitches without l folding said strip, piaiting said strip away' -from vthe trousers material to form three pliesalong-a lille substantial] parallel to andspaced from said edge, an sewing v said .strip directly to the trousers yby a line of stitching substantiallyl arallel to said edge and passing through -t e two pliesnearest the'trouserswhereby the third ply will consuming.

last-named 4. In a waist-band for trousers, a. stiiien-` ing strip vmarginally carriedl along the/interlor upper edge ofthe trousers andv at- 7" t'ached thereto by two lines of stitphing spaced. from each other to form a/,f/trans v ers'ely limited space between said/stitches and underneath thestrip, saidspace/presentf ing only smooth surfaces to th'belt and entirelyfree` fromI 4projections therein',

whereby said space may slidgbly accommodate and guide a belt. l In testimony whereof I aix mv s1 ature.

. AMonnioria- .i'snilzeron` T11-q

Images