US1569394A - Buttonhole-sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 12 192s.

E. J. ,RAY I BUT'IQNHOLE SEWING MACHINE 4 x 3 Original Filed June 1920 fishnets-Sheet 1 E. J. RAY mrwomxom 'szwme momma Sheets-5' heat 2 ori l u Filed June 28 E. J. RAY

-BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE 6. Sheets-Sh 4 f a agr Jan. 12 1926.

- E. J.- RAY BUTTONHOLE szwnze MACHINE 6 Sheets-Sheet 55. Filed June 28, 1920 thereto, Fig.

" ping the machine after Patented Jan. 12, 1926.

um'rsn EUGENE J. RAY, BEVERLY, MASSZ-r-DHUSETTS, ASSIG-NOR TO UNITED SHOE MA- CHINERY GQRPORATIQN, GF PA'IEBSON, NEN JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Application inea .Tnne 2'8, 1920, serial No. 392,208. Renewed October 20, 1923.

1 0 all i from it may concern Be it known that I, EUGENE J. RAY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Beverly, in the county of ilscf: and State of liiassachus'etts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonholekfiewing Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable pothers skilled in the new which it app'ertains to make and use the same.

The invention relates to outtonhole sewing machines, and more particularly to machines for auton'iatically sewing a series or buttonholes in shoe flies, gaiters or similar )ie'ces of work.

The machine in which the invention has been embodied comprises, in go e'ral, at out tonho'le making mechanism for cutting and sewing an eye-ended huttonhole, a work carrier whichis shifted after each buttonhol'e making cycle to space the work and re-position itin the work clamp of the 'buttonl'iol'e making mechanism, and mechanism for stopa predetermined number of buttonholes have been sewed.

One feature of the invention consists in the provision in a inacirine of this type of means for stopping the machine in case the thread breaks. The machine is preferably stopped at the completion of the buttonhole making cycle during which the thread breaks so that the operator may re-thread the machine and re-sew the rmtinished buttonhole before the spacing mechanism acts to re-position the work for the succeeding buttonhole.

Further features or the invention which contribute to the simplicity of the construction and the efficiency oi its operation relate to the work spacing mechanism and to the mechanism for determining the number of buttonhol'es to be automatically sewed.

The invention will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings and the following detailed description off the mechanism illustrated therein.

in the drawings Fig. 1 is a sectional side elevation showing so much of a. buttonhole sewing machine as is necessary to illustrate the :unilication of the present invention 2 is a plan View partly in tioi'r, Fig. 3 is a similar View, some of the parts being broken away or removed, Fig. is a detailed side elevation showing parts 01 the spacing and counting mechanisms, Fig.

5 is a sectional view on line 55, Fig. 4:, Fig. (3 a sectional view on line 6-43, Fig. i, Fig. 7 is a detailed view of the mechanism for stopping the machine upon the breaking of the thread, and Fig. 8 is a detailed view showing a part oi. the mechanism for starting the machine.

In the drawings'the invention is shown emhodie'd in a machine in which the'buttonhole making mechanism is similar in general construction and mode of operation to that of the machine shown and described in Patent No. 1,663,880, Ju-ne 3, 1913, and that of the maclrineshown and described in my applica- 'tion No. 187,194, filed August 20, 1917. This mechanism comprises in general a cutter 2, for cutting the buttonhole slit, a work clamp, comprising work supporting plates 4 and pivoted clamping arms 6, mounted upon a traveling clamp carriage 8, which is moved lengthwise and laterally ot' the buttonhole, and a stitch-forming mechanism which is rotated during the sewing about the eye and about the opposite end of the buttonhole, the upper needle of which is indicated at 10. The feed cam gear through which the various parts and mechanisms are operated or controlled in this type of buttonhole making mechanism is indicated at 12. As is usual in this type of machine the feed cam gear is rotated at high sp ed prior to the beginning of the sewing operation, to close the work clamp, operate the-cutter, and move the work clamp from cutting to sewing position, is driven at slow speed from the sewing shatt during the sewing, and is again driven at high speed, after the sewing is completed to move the work "clamp from sewing'to cutting position, and to open the clamp. The specific construction of the mechanisms for thus driving the feed cam gear, and of the mecha nisms'and connections through which it controls and operates the various parts of the buttonhole making mechanism, is not material to the present invention, and only that part of the mechanism which directly cooperates with the work-spacing mechanism and with the mechanism for determining the number of buttonholes sewei is shown. As indicated in Figs. 1 to 3 the feed cam gear engaged and driven by a worm 1.4: formed on a sleeve, one end of which is pro vided with one member of the high speed clutch it The other member of the high speed clutch is formed on the hub of a gear 18 which engages a gear 20 connected with the constantly rotating driving pulley 22. The gear 18 is shifted to engage or disen- 9" 1c the high speed clutch through a clutch 1 rod 2d, the forward end of which carries an arm 26, engaging a groove in the hub of the gear 18, and the rear end of which is provided with a rack, engaging teeth formed on the clutch shifting lever 28. The rod is forced in a direction to engage the clutch a spring 530. The clutch shiftiug lever is mounted upon the hub of a cam lever 32. the end of which .is arranged to be acted upon by cams carried by the feed cam gear and one of which is indicated at 3 (Fig. The two levers are normally .ected by a spring pressed latch pin 36 mounted in lever 32 and entering a hole 38 in the lever 28. A coiled spring 40, which is connected with the hub of the lever 32, and with the head of the fixed stud 42 on which the lever is mounted tends to hold the lever 82 in position for the pin 36 to enter the hole 38. A pin tt is mounted in the hole 38 and underlies the end of the starting lever 46. This lever is mounted on a pivot stud 48 and is yieldingly connected with one arm of a bell crank lever 50 by a spring 52 and stud 54.

When the feed cam gear completes its rotation at the end of a buttonhole making cycle the cam 34 acts on the cam lever 32 which, at that time, is connected with the clutch shifting lever 28 and operates the evers to disengage the high speed clutch and thus stop the feed cam gear and consequently the bi'ittonhole making mechanism. Vhen the gear is to be started at the beginning of the succeeding buttonhole making cycle the starting lever 46 is operated to depress the pin and thus disengage the latch pin 38 and the lever 28 that the clutch lever and clutch shifting rod may be opt ed by the spring 3-30 to engage the high s e-e-tl clutch 16. As soon as the cam lever ridzs off of the cam 34; the lever 32 is meved with relation to the lever 28 by the spring at) to bring the pin 36 again into register with the hole 38 when tl e pin enters the hole and a ain connects the two lovers K aid 28 so that during the continued rot i or the feed earn gear the cams on the to control the o the clutch conwith the sewing shaft). the buttonhole making gain engages the lever 32 5 .ie high speed clutch 16., .i .n the feed cum gear and buttoniaking mechanism. The parts remain operate the l .l clutch (and a 1e worm 'iei ('OE11]')lt-il 1*11 tlEEIS 5 hole .in stopped position until the starting lever is again operated, to initiate the succeeding buttonhole making cycle.

The work is automatically shifted to space the buttonholes by the movement of a work carrier 56 which is mounted on the clamp carriage 8, and is automatically moved between successive buttonhole making cycles. The carrier is the same in construction as the carrier more fully shown and described in the above application, No. 187,194, and is provided with a work supporting plate 58 on which the work is held by a series of spring clamping lingers 60 carried by a bar (i2 which may be operated by the operator to clamp or release the work. The work carrier is provided with an edge gage 64 against which the edge of the work is positioned by the operator and is also provided with an open slot 66 which registers with the buttonhole zone of the work. The work carrier is guided during its work spacing movements by fixed rolls 68 and 70 arranged to engage guiding slots formed on the carrier. The slots are so shaped and the rolls so arranged that the work is moved by the carrier in a path corresponding to the curvature of the edge guide to properly locate the series of buttonholes with relation to the edge of the work. The mechanism for advancing the work carrier to space the buttonholes includes a rack 72 provided with an arm 74, which is connected by a pivot pin With a block 76 arranged to slide within a slot 78 in the carrier. The rack is engaged by a gear 80, which is driven from a worm wheel 82, of equal diameter. The connections between the worm wheel and gear comprise a clutch bar 84 provided at its ends with clutch faces adapted to engage a conical clutch face in the upper side of the worm wheel, and two links 86, one of which is pivoted at 88 to the gear, and the other of which is pivoted at 90 to an arm 92 on the clutch bar. The pivot pin which con nects the links carries aroll 94, which engages a cam groove 96, which acts to vary the movement imparted to the gear in ac cordanee with the path of movement of the carrier so that the requisite movements are given to the carrier to equally space the buttonholes along the irregularly curved edge of the work. The clutch bar is forced into en gagement with the worm wheel by a clamping nut 98, the upper end of which is provided with a knurled head by vhich the nut may be manipulated in clamping and releasing the clutch bar to permit move ment of the work carrier into position to properly locate the first buttonhole in the series to be sewed.

' s thus far described the mechanism n'h which the work carrier is advanced ionds to the mechanism more fully and described in the above applica- No. 187,194. The worm wheel 82 is engaged by a worm formed on a sleeve 102 which is connected with a shaft 104 by a one w'ay roller clutch 106. The shaft is mounted in a hearing in the clamp carriage and is rotated-after each buttonhole making cycle by an intermittently acting mechanism mounted on a fixed part of the machine. As shown in Figs. 4 and 5 the outer end of the shaft 104 is provided with a tongue 108 fitting 'with-ina groove in the end of a pinion 110 which is so mounted that it is in axial a'linement with shaft- 104 when the clamp carriage is in its retracted position at the end of a bu'ttonhole making cycle. During the buttonhole making cycle the pinion 110 is held in the position indicated in Fig. 5 and the tongue 108mo\' es idly back and forth througi the slot in the end of the pinion during the travel of the clamp carriage. The pinion is secured on. the end of a shaft 112 and is engaged by a gear segment 114 formed -'on the upper end of a lever 116. The lever is oscillated between buttonhole making cycles by a crank 118 connected with the lever by a link 120. The crank is secured "to the end of a shaft 122 which is rotated through single revolution, after each buttonhole making cycle, by a one-revolution Horton clutch 124' which connects the 'shaftwith a gear 126 engaged by the continuously rotating gear 20. VVh'en theYcra-nk shaft 122 is rotated the segment lever 1162is advanced and retracted and oscillates the pinion 110 and the shaft 112. During the advance of the segment lever the one-way "clut'ch 106 rotates the worm 100 -'so that the work carrier is advanced a step to space the work and position it in thework 'cla'mpfor thesucc'eedingbuttonhole making "operation. During the return movement of the segment lever theone-way clutch permits the'sha'it 104 to rotate idly with relation to the worm 100.

In order that the "movement transmitted to the work carrier may 'be'varied to secure the spacing requisite for properly positioning the buttonholes, means is provided for adjusting the pivotal connection between the link and the segment lever 116. As shown in 'Figs. 1. 4 and 5 the link 120 is pivotally connected to a block128 mounted in a guideway 130 in the "lever and provided with a rack 132 engagedby a pinion 134. The pinion is secured on the inner end of 'a shaft 136, the outer end of which carries a dial plate 138 provided with a series 0 f holes adapted to be engaged with a locking pin 140 fixed in an arm on the lever 116. The dial plate is held in engagement with the locking pin by a spring 142 acting upon the shaft 136 and the outer end of the shaft is provided with a knurled head 144 bywhich the shaft may be moved endwise to disenand is held against the periphery oi the-disk by a spring 152-. It is tripped to throw the spacing mechanism into operation at the end oi a 'buttonholc making cycle by a cam lug 154 on the ieed cam gear 12, which is arranged to engage "the upper end of an arm '15'6-sec'u'red to the shaft 150. The hubof'the arm is providedwith a laterally projecting stop finger 158 which is yieldingly held in engagement with a stop screw 160 by a spring 162, Figs. 8 and 6. The shaft carriesa trip arm 164 adapted to engage a pin 1 66 on the pawl 148. The trip arm is keyed to slide lengthwise on the sh-aft'so that itfm'ay be inoved out of position to acto-n the pin 166 'when the operation of the spacing mechanism is to be discontinued after the desired number or buttonholes have been sewed, oi-"is to be omitted upon the breaking 'oi-the' thread. When the machine is started the "arm 164 is moved into position above the pm 166 and attlre end of each buttonhole H cycle is depressed by the action of cam lug 154*011 the arm 15 6, and operates the awl 148 to "throw 'in"th e work spacing clutch. The finalinoverlie-ht of "the gear '1-2, as it comes into stopping position, carries the cam lug beyond the end of the arm 156 so that the pawl 148 is free to return to normal position andto throw out the clutch at the end of a single revolution.

After the Work carrier has been advanced to space the work at the completion of the buttoi'ihole making cycle the buttonhole making mechanism is again thrown into opera-' tion and this continues until a predetermined number of buttonholes have been completed, after which the machine is stopped by rendering the spacing mechanism inactive; In the construction shown the mechanisms for throwing in the buttonhole making mechanism, after the buttonholes have been spaced, and for stopping the machine at the completion of the series of buttonholes, are-operated by the return movement of the segment lever 1160i the spacing mechanism.

The-mechanism for rendering the spacing mechanism inactive, and thus stopping the machine at the completion of the series of buttonholes, comprises a lever 168, the rear end of which is provided with a yoke enibracing the hub of the trip arm 164 and carrying 'pi'n's engaging 'anannular groove ice iii.

in the hub. A coiled spring 170 acts on the lever and tends to hold the trip arm in position to operate the stop pawl 148 which controls the spacing clutch. The lever is operated to move the trip arm into inactive position, as indicated in Fig. 3, by an arm 172 secured to the rear end of a controller shaft 174, the forward end of which is connected by beveled gears 176 with a ratchet wheel 178. The ratchet wheel and controller shaft are advanced a step after each operation of the spacing mechanism by a pawl 180 carried on a pawl lever 182, which is connected by a link 184 with the segment arm 116. A coiled spring 186 connected to the shaft bearing 188 and to a disk 190, secured to the shaft, tends to hold the ratchet wheel and controller shaft in initial position with a stop pin 192 on the ratchet wheel in engagement with a stationary adjustable stop 194. Starting from initial position the controller shaft will be advanced after each operation of the spacing mechanism until the arm 172 engages the lever 168 and shifts the trip arm 164 into inactive position and thus stops the machine. Reverse movementof the controller shaft under the influence of the spring 186 is prevented by a stop pawl 196, which engages the teeth of the ratchet wheel 178. This pawl also forms one arm of a lever, the upper end of which is connected by a flexible cord 198 with the bell crank lever 50 through which the starting lever for the high speed clutch of the buttonhole making mechanism is operated. lVhen the ratchet wheel is advanced by the pawl 180 the tooth of the wheel on which the lever 196 rides rocks the lever and thus ope-rates the starting lever 46 for the buttonhole making mechanism.

The number of buttonholes in the series sewed will depend upon the initial position of the controller shaft and this may be adjusted for any desired number of buttonholes by adjustment of the stop 194. As shown in Figs. 4 and 6 the stop is formed on a sleeve 200 surrouiuling the shaft 202 on which the ratchet wheel 178 and beveled gear 176 are secured. This sleeve is provided with a dial plate 204, having a series of holes adapted to be engaged by a fixed pin 206. The sleeve is held yieldingly in position with one of the holes in engagement with the pin by a spring 208, and the outer end of the sleeve is provided with a head 210 by which the sleeve may be moved to disengage the dial from the pin and may be turned to adjust the stop 194 in accordance with the number of buttonholes in the series to be sewed.

After a series of buttonholes have been completed the operator breaks the connection between the work clamp and the worm wheel 82 by turning the clamping nut 98 and then, after removing the finished piece of but tonhole.

work, and inserting a fresh piece in the carrier, positions the carrier in proper relation to the sewing mechanism for sewing the first He then reconnects the clamp and worm wheel and after properly adjusting the spacing mechanism, if such adjustment is required in order to properly space the series of baittonholes so that the last buttonhole of the series will be in the proper relation to the end of the work, he starts the in chine by swinging the lever 196 in a direction to operate the starting lever for the blittOilllOlQ making mechanism. By this movement of the lever 106 he disengages it from the ratchet wheel. and also disengages the actuating pawl 180 so that the controller shaft 174 is immediately returned by its spring 186 to initial position determined by the fixed step 194 and stop pin 192. The means for thus disengaging the actuating pawl comprises a pin arranged to under lie the pawl and carried by an arm 214, projecting from the lever. 196. The lever is provided with a projecting handle 216 by which it may be conveniently manipulated by the operator.

The mechanism for preventing the operation of the spacing mechanism and thus stopping the machine at the end of the buttonhole cycle in which the thread breaks comprises mechanism for shifting the trip arm 164 into inactive position which is controlled by the thread. As shown the lever 168 is provided with a laterally projecting arm 218 connected by a flexible cord 220 with one arm of'a three-arm lever 222, Figs. 1, 2, 8 and 7. The lever is forced in a direction to shift the trip into inactive position by a spring plunger 224 and is locked in inactive position against the pressure of the spring by the lower end of a latch lever 226. The upper end of the latch lever forms an armature arranged to be acted upon by an electro-magnet The magnet circuit is normally open and is adapted to be closed by the engagement of two contact points 230 and 232 included in the circuit. The contact point 230 is carried on a slide which is mounted on guide rods 286 and 238, and is pressed in. a direction to bring the con tacts into engagement by a light spring 240. The slide is provided with a thread eye 242 through which the needle thread leads from the tension 244 to the tired thread guides 246 so that the thread during the normal operation of the machine acts to hold the slide in retracted position, as indicated in Fig. 7. Should the thread break it will no longer be held taut, or substantially taut, between the tension and the guide 246, and the slide 284 will be moved to the left by its spring, thus bringing the contact 230 ito engagement with the contact 232, energieing the magnet so that it will disengage the latch lever 226 from the three-arm lever iereris arranged in the 222 and permit the spring plunger 224; to operate the lever and shift the trip arm for the. spacing clutch into inactive position. In order that the. contacts 232 and 230 may not be on -aged when the. slide 23 i is rethemccl :contact is carried' on a pivoted: rn aidrwhich rests on a pin andtr'ethe horizontal arm oi a bell lei-fer 252'. The vertical arm of the of :1 lug 2 ion'the slide iVhen the slide 1501c; t m the leit upon the breaking of the thread the lag rocks the bell crank lever (lia and passes beyond the verti al arm of the 'turneclto normal position in re setting lever. When the mechanism is-reset the lug rocks the lever and lifts the contact 232 as the contact 230 is pa sing under it so that the magnet circuit is not closed in resetting the mechanisn'n in order that the controller shaft 174 nia; not be released and returned to initial position when the operator starts the ma chine, after the operation of the spacing mechanism has been prevented by the break ing of the -thread,the'hub of the lever 196 is provided wvith a rearwardly projecting arm 256, the end ofwhich carries a pivoted pawl 258 held yieldingly in position'on the arm by a spring 260. The pawl is arranged I to engage the disk 190 on the controller shaft when the arm 196 is moved to start the buttonhole making mechanism, and to thus limit the movement of the lever so that it willnot disengage the actuating pawl 180 from the ratchet wheel 17 8. When the iforward movement of the controller shaft has been completed, and the series of buttonholes for which the mechanism is adjusted has therefore been completed, a slot 262 in the disk 190 registers with the pawl 258 so that the arm 196 may be moved sufliciently to disengage the actuating pawl 180 in starting the machine at the beginning of the next series otbuttonholes', thus permitting the rontrr' ller shaft to return to initial position.

Dining this movementof the lever 196v the pawl passes through the slot 262 and during the return movementoi the lever 196, after the controller shaft has returned to initial position, thepawl will yield as it passes the disk 190 and then snap into normal position. The machine may be provided with any suitable or well known form of thread cutter and} holder for severing and holding-the up per needle thread at the completion of each buttonhole. Such a thread cutterandholdr having the construction and mode of operation of the thread cutter and holder shown and described in'Patent No. 1,332,683, March 2, 1-920-is indicated at 264 in'Fig. 1.

Vhile it is preferred to employ the specific construction and arrangement of parts shown and described it will be understood that this eonstruction a ang ent is which the breakocc'ursi not-essentialtothe broader features of the; invention and may be variedor modified as found desirable and best suited to the construction and: mode of operation of any machine in which the invention is to be embodied. I

-What is claimed is: 4 1. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, mechanism forrelatively feeding and moving the work to sewa seriesfof buttonholes, and means rendered active upon the breaking or thethread to stop} the machine with the parts in predetermined relative position.

Abuttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, mechanism for relatively feeding" and inoving the work to sew series of buttonholes, and means rendered active-upon the breaking of. the thread for stopping the machine at the end of the'buttonhole sewing cycle in A; buttonhole "sewing machine, having,

in combination, buttonhole'making mechanism, mechanism for automatically spacing the work to sew a. ore-determinedseries o'f bu-ttonl oles, andmeans rendered active upon the breakin' of the thread for rendering the spacing niece anism inactive.

c 4:. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, afwork clamp, a buttonhole cutter, mechanism for actuating these parts to cut and sew a buttonhole,mechanism vfor spacing the work, mechanism for controlling the buttonhole making and spacing mechanisms to automatically "cut and sew a'pre-deter- ,mined number of buttonholes, and'means rendered active upon the breaking" of the thread for rendering the spacing mechanism inactive. r

5. A'buttonhole'sewing machine, having,

in ombination,"buttonhole making mechanism, mechanism for spacing the work'at the end of the buttonhole making cycle, and

'means rendered active upon the breaking oi'the thread for rendering the spacing mechanism inactive. v

6. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, mechanism for spacing the work at the end of each buttonhole making cycle, and means for omitting the spacing at the end of a buttonhole making cycle in which the thread breaks; k

7. A buttonhole sewing mach ne, having, in combination,buttonhole making mechanism, work spacing mechanism thrown into action by the'buttdnhole makingmechanism at the end of itscycle and acting to again start the buttonhole making mechanism, andmeans for omitting the spacing at the end of a buttonhole making cycle in which the thread breaks.

8.- A buttonhole sewing machine, having,

in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, work spacing mechanism thrown into action by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of its cycle and acting to again start the buttonhole making mechanism, and means rendered active upon the breaking of the thread for preventing the throwing in of the spacing mechanism at the end of that buttonhole making cycle.

9. A sewing machine, having, in combination, sewing mechanism for effecting a sewing operation including a plurality of stitchforming cycles, mechanism for spacing the work at the end of each sewing operation, and means rendered active upon the breaking of the thread for rendering the spacing mechanism inactive.

10. A sewing machine, having, in combination, sewing mechanism for effecting a sewing operation including a plurality of stitch-forming cycles, mechanism for spacing the work at the end of each sewing operation, and means for omitting the spacing at the end of a sewing operation in which the thread breaks.

11. A sewing machine, having, in combination, sewing mechanism for eliecting a sewing operation, including a plurality of stitch-forming cycles, work spacing mechanism thrown into action by the sewing mechanism at the end of the sewing operation and acting to again start the sewing mechanism, and means rendered active upon the breaking of the thread for preventing the throwing in of the spacing mechanism at the end of that sewing operation.

12. A sewing machine, having, in combination, sewing mechanism for effecting a sewing operation, including a plurality of stitchutorming cycles, mechanism for spacing the work, mechanism for stopping the machine after a pre-determined number of spacings, and means for stopping the machine an'd omitting a spacing upon the breaking of the thread.

13. A. buttonhole sewing machine, having,

in combination, buttonhole making mecha-- nism, mechanism for spacing the work at the end of each buttonhole making cycle, mechanism for stopping the machine after a predetermined number or". spacings, and means for stopping the machine and omit ting a spacing upon the breaking of the thread.

14. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, a work carrier, spacing mechanism for moving the carrier to space the buttonholes, comprising an oscillating segment,'a one-way clutch through which motion is transmitted from the segment to the carrier, and means for varying the throw of the segment.

in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, a work carrier, spacing mechanism for moving the carrier to space the buttonholes, comprising an oscillating segment, a one-way clutch through which motion is transmitted from the se ment to the carrier, a one-revolution clutch thrown into operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of the buttonhole making cycle, a crank driven by the clutch, and a link connecting the crank and segment.

16. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, a work carrier, spacing mechanism for moving the carrier to space the buttonholes, comprising an oscillating segment, a one-way clutch through which motion is transmitted from the segment to the carrier, a one-revolution clutch thrown into operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of the buttonhole making cycle, a crank driven by the clutch, a link connecting the crank and segment, and means for adjusting the connection between the link and segment to vary the throw of the segment.

17. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, work spacing mechanism rendered active at the end of each buttonhole making cycle, a counting mechanism operated from the spacing mechanism for stopping the machine after a pre-determined number of buttonholes have been sewed, and means for returning the counting mechanism to initial position in starting the buttonhole making mechanism for the initial buttonhole of the succeeding series.

18. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, a work carrier, a one-revolution work spacing clutch thrown into operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of each but tonhole making cycle, an oscillating segment operated. by the clutch, a one-way clutch through which motion is transmitted from the segment to the work carrier to space the work, and counting mechanism operated by the segment for preventing the throwing in of the spacing clutch at the completion ot a pre-determined number of buttonholes.

19. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonhole making-mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, work spacing mechanism thrown into operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of each buttonhole making cycle, a. counting mechanism advancing a step to start the buttonhole making mechanism at each op eration of the spacing mechanism and provided with means for preventing the thrmving in of the spacing mechanism at the com- 15, A buttonhole sewing machine, having, pletion of its advance movement. and meansfor preventing thethrorring in of the spacing mechanism upon the breaking of the thread. I

20. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, bnttonhole making mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, work spacing mechanism thrown into operationby the b'uttonhole making mechanismat the end of each buttonhole making cycle, a counting mechanism advanced a step to start the buttonhole making mechanism at each operation of the spacingmechanism, means operated by the. final movement of the counting mechanism for preventing the throwing in of. the spacing nicchanism,and means for returning the counting mechanism to initial position upon the initial. start-ingot thebnt tonhole makingmechanism.

21. ii buttonhole sewing machine, having, in coinhination, buttonhole making-mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, work :spacing mechanism thrown into operation by,

the buttonhole: making mechanism at the end of each buttonhole making cycle, a. counting ratchet. a spring tending to hold the ratchet in initial position, an actuating pawl opcrated by the spacing mechanism, and means operated by the final movement of the ratchet for preventing the throwing in of the spacing mechanism.

22. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, .buttonhole making mechanism, stop mechanism there-tor, work spacing mechanism thrown. into operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of each buttonhole making cycle, a counting ratchet, a spring tending to hold the ratchet in initial position, an actuating pawl operated by the spacing mecnanism, a lever riding against the teeth of the ratchet, and means for starting the buttonhole making mechanism operated by the lever. V r

23. A buttonhole sewing n'iachine, having, in combination, buttonhole making mechan ism, stop mechanism therefor, work spacing mechanism thrown into operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of each lmttonhole making cycle, a counting ratchet, a sprin tending to hold the ratchet in initial position, an actuating pawl oper ated by the spacing mechanism, a stop pawl lever riding against the teeth of the ratchet, and means for starting the buttonhole mak ing mechanism operated by the lever.

24:. A. buttonhole sewing machine, having. in con'ibination, buttonhole making mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, Work spacing mechanism th own into operation b; the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of each buttonhole making cycle, a counting ratchet, a spring tending to hold the ratchet in initial position, an actuating pawl operated by the spacing mechanism,

astop pawl lever riding against the teeth 26. A. buttonnole sewing machine having,

in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, mechanism for relatively feeding and moving the we k to'scn a series of buttonholes, andmeens controlled by the thread for stopping the machine withthe parts in predetern'iined relative position.

27, A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-"forming mechanism, mechanism for relatively feeding and moving the work to sew a series of buttonholes, and means controlled by the thread for stopping the machine at the end of a buttonhole sewing cycle.

28. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch-forming mechanism to sew a buttonhole, and means controlled by the thread for stopping the machine at the end of a buttonhole cycle. 7

29. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, mechanism for spacing the work at the end of the buttonhole making cycle, and means controlled by the thread for rendering the spacing mechanism inactive.

30. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, work spacing mechanism, and means controlled by the thread for rendering the spacing mechanism inactive. Y

31. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, work spacing mechanism thrown into action by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of its cycle and acting to again start the buttonhole making mechanism, and counting mechanism acting after a predetermined number of spacings to render the spacing mechanism inactive at th( completion of the next buttonhole making cycle.

A buttonhole se 'ing machine having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, work spacing mechanism, means operated by the buttonhole making mechanism for starting the spacing mechanism, means operated by the spacing mechanism for starting the bnttonhole making mechanism, and counting mechanism adjustable for different numbers of buttonholes for rendering the starting means for the spacing mechanism inactive.

33. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, work spacing mechanism, means operated by the buttonhole making mechanism for starting the spacing mechanism at the completion of a buttonhole, means operated by the spacing mechanism for starting the buttonhole making mechanism at the completion of a spacing operation, and mechanism for rendering the starting means for the spacing mechanism inactive at the completion of a predetermined number 01 buttonholes.

34. A buttonholc sewing machine having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism including a rotary feed cam, a Work carrier, and actuating mechanism for the carrier thrown into operation by a cam on the feed cam at the completion of a buttonhole making cycle.

35. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, Work spacing mechanism, a trip for controlling the spacing mechanism operated by the buttonhole making mechanism, and mechanism for rendering the trip inactive after a predetermined number of spacing operations.

36. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, Work spacing mechanism rendered active at the end of a buttonhole making cycle and adapted to restart the buttonhole making mechanism, a counting mechanism for rendering the spacing mechanism inactive after a predetermined number of buttonholes have been sewed, means for manually starting the but tonhole making mechanism and for returning the counting mechanism to initial position, and means for preventing the return of the counting mechanism in starting the buttonhole making mechanism until the predetermined number 01 buttonholes have been sewed.

EUGENE J. RAY.

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