US1416002A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.5. 191e,

Patented May 16, 1922.

5 SHEET -SHEET1.

WITNESS A TTORA/EY A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.5.1916.

-SHEET 2.

Patented May 16, 1922.

5 SHEET INVE/VT R HIM/z,

A HORNE V AI H. DE VOE SEWING'MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.5, I916.

Patented May 16, 1922..

5 SHEET -SHEET 3.

IN l/EN TOR mm Km A TTOR/VEY A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.5'. I916.

1,416,002, Patented May 16, 1922.

W, a -SHEET 4.

WITNESS llVl/E/VTDR g-g iww wwx/m I ATTORNEY A. H. DE JOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 050.5. 10m.

Patented May 16, 1922.

5 SHEETS--SHEET 5.

f J .r Q Q Q T I 7 IN l/E/V TOR W X402 4 A TTOR/VEY xii/MW.

ALBERT H. DE VOE, 0F WESTFIELD, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

iaiaooa.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented li'iay it}, 315F922.

Application filed December 5, 1916. Serial No. 135,154.

To 1177 w/mmi may concern lle it known that I. ALBERT H. Dr: Von. a citizen of the United States. residing at \Yestfield. in the county of Union and State of New Jersey. have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification. reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates more. particularly to that class of devices in sewing machines having a. certain normal operation which it. is desired under certain conditions to modify either in prmletermined degree or to an extent which may be. arbitrary on the part of the operator. as in the case of machines em ploying means for imparting lateral jogging movements to a. rcwiprocating needle. or feeding or rutliing mechanisms for special classes of work. It is designed more particularly for employment in connection with means for shifting the work relatively to the work-holder of a butt-onhole sewing machine to space the buttonholes apart.

The invention has for one of its objects to provide. in mechanisms including a driving element and a driven element connected therewith and deriving operative movements therefrom. manually controlled means whereby the normal movements of the driven element may be varied at pleasure either in a predetermined degree or in a degree which is arhitrarv on the part of the operator. It has for a more specific objectto provide in a. buttonhole sewing machine means whereby the work may he shifted preparatory to each buttonhole stitching operation so as to correctly space apart a succession of buttonholes in a piece of material, such spacing being either uniform or varied in fixed or arbit any degree.

In its preferred embodiment, the present improvement is applied to a butt-onhole sewing machine. containing suitable stit-cl'i-forming mechanism and a work-holder with feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-spacing movements between them. (oopcrating with the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms is a travelling cutting device having opposed cutting elements adapted in the retracted position of the cutting device to be aimed in nipping relation third arm or projection of the rockshaft is normally spring-pressed into contact relation with a stop-plate sustained by a manually operated rock-lever having an arm which is adapted to contact with a. yielding stop-spring beyond the normal position of which it may be forced when desired.

The engagement of the said third arm or projection of the rock-shaft with the, stopplate determines the normal retracted position of the cutting device from which it advances toward the stitch-forming mechanism a distance corresponding with the normal spacing apart of the buttonholes. The stop-plate is so formed that upon manual movement of the rock-lever until arrested by encounter with thestop-spring. the relation of the operative portion of the stop-plate to said arm or projection is changed to apredetermined degree so as to locate the retracted position of the cutting device accordingly preparatory to its performing an advance movement of corresponding length to the stitching point. The travel of the cutting device may obviously he further modified by forcing the rock-lever carrying the stop-plate into anv arbitrary position beyond the point of contact with the stopspring which latter is adapted to yield under thev abnormal impulse. required to overcome its resistance. It is evident that the operative face of the st0p-plate may be so shaped that the movement of the rock-lever beyond the initial point of resistance offered by the stop-spring will cause it to so determine the retracted position of the cutting device as to effect either the lengthening or shortening of its "ange of movement to work-presenting position.

As represented in the drawings, the present improvement is, embodied in the buttonhole cutting and stitching machine forming the subject of my pending application Serial No. 69,644, filed December 31, 1915, and the several groups of mechanism not directly involving features of the present invention are, or may be, constructed in accordance with said application. L

In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 1s a side elevation of a buttonhole sewing machine embodying the present improvements, and Fig. 1 a similar elevation taken from the opposite side, representing a portion of the cutting mechanisn'i. Fig. 2 is a front and elevation, and Fig. 3 a plan of the machine. Fig. 1 is an elevation, viewed from the end opposite that represented in Fig. 2, showing the mechanism for producing the travelling or workshifting movements of the cutting device, and Fig. 5 is a perspective view, upon a larger scale, of a portion of such mechanism. showing certain of its component parts detached for purposes of illustration. Fig. 6 is an elevation of a portion of the mechanism represented in Fig. 5, and Fig. 7 is a transverse section of the same through the coupling pin by means of which the adjustment of the normal traverse of the cutting device is effected. Fig. 8 is a perspective view representing that part of the cutting mechanism which imparts to the opposed cutting elements the work-nipping and cutting movements. Fig. 9 is a detail sectional elevation representing a modification of the stop plate and its positioning means.

As shown in the drawings, the machine is constructed with a frame comprising the base 1 from which rises the standards 2 sustaining in coaxial relation the main-shaft 3 and the constantly running driving pulley 1 imparting. through suitable clutch devices and other connections. operative movements to the several trains of mechanism.

The clutch devices are controlled to set in motion su cessively the cutting and stitchforming and feeding mechanisms by means of an endwise movable rock-shaft 5 carrying at one end the bent crank-arm 6 to which is attached the treadle rod 7. The rockshaft may be actuated to start the machine either by drawing down the treadle rod 7 or by pressing, down the hand-lever 8 pivotally connected with the opposite end of the rockshaft.

Slidingly mounted upon the base 1 and confined within ways 9 thereon is the bedplate 10 of the travelling stitch-frame sustaining the upright post 11 carrying the lateral bracket member 12 which sustains bearings in which is journaled the reciprocatmg needle-bar 13' carrying a needle 11 cooperating in practice with loop-taking elements sustained by the bed-plate 10. These stitcluforming elements are suitably mounted in their respective supports to perform a partial rotation in a buttonhole stitching cycle through an operative connection with the feed-can 15 which derives its operative movements from connections with the main-shaft 3.

The longitudinal feeding or stitch-spacing movements and the lateral side-shift movements are imparted to the stitch-frame by connections with the feed'cam including roller-studs 16 and 17, respectively, entering suitable cam-grooves in the lower face of the feed-cam cylinder 15.

The non-travelling work-holder of the present machine comprises a workplate 18,

preferably in relatively movable sections and serving as the lower clamping member, and the feet 19 and 20 constituting the sectional upper clamping member of the workholder, these feet being carried respectively by the independently mounted arms 21 and 22 adapted to be differentially lowered and lifted to clamp and release the work by automatically operated means including levers 23 and 24 carrying roller-studs 9.3 and 24' entering peripheral cam- tracks 25 and 26 in the feed-cam-cylinder.

As described in my said pending application. the travelling cutting device comprises a vertically and horizontally movable cutterlever formed in two rigidly connected sections 27 and 28 with an intermediate raised seat 29 apertured to receive and guide a stud 30 and a steady pin 31 depending from a plate 32 having an upwardly offset lateral extension 33. Secured upon the extension 33 is the cutter-block or plate 34 disposed l cneath and in operative relation with the relatively movable upper cutting knife 35 sustained by the overhanging member 36 of the cutter-lever or frame. The upper and lower cutting elements 3% and 35 are maintained normally separated by means of a spring 37 surrounding the stud 3t) and interposed between the head of a screw 38 tapped therein and the lower face of the part 29 of the outter-lever.

The lever-arm 27 is formed with a transverse boss 39 in which is secured the pivotal pin 40 which is journaled in the spaced members of a transverse yoke. 41 of a swinging frame 42 carrying the guide-rod 43. The frame 4:? is formed with a depending boss 44 embraced between and pivotally connected by means of the pin 4:) with the spaced arms 46 of a link member which are rigidly connected together by the tie piece 47. The arms 46 embrace between them and are pivotally connected by the pin 48 with the spaced lateral arms 49 of a swinging bracket having a tubular hub 50 journaled upon the fulcrum-stud 50 which is sustained by the base 1.

By the means described. the swinging frame. -12 is supported for movement in any direction horizontally around the pivotal pins 45. 48 and 50 and is restrained against movement in other directions. Th cutterthin the path .of; meal-i1: o1 yistuds 82= adjustahly-v the lu'acket-jplate- 83:.

J. the cam-wheel screw 38 .estiinguipor i i member 15. t a ,1 upper edge of the tappeb, .70 Slidingl r mountediupon-the gu' iilenod 4;,- at the iencmlntcr of its is a sleeve adaptp "I-lJB secli'ifiil;ithereon. 1 I e'd lorward edgowwith the in the dusuediposition; adjustment =h v iurses its depression until thc means ofgthc.elarnmscrmix;fifiliand provided ,i rent straight portion with a, laterally,neXtending-and'apertured: N er-position thus as boss 53 iniufhich lSiSe zed the:.ztulcrurnpin 3 c enteringa sockgatiiio ,ii-the slidinggleam 56. This ,s'gleeve ie tit-ted" hponja -,1()(li hot i: the rigid-bracket M provide itha. parallel pressed 1, v rod :mflembraced by the vingefitllof the sleeve th:i1wd down 56 to restrain.thfllflitwagainst turning ai Hedge-which clamp-screw 61 being applied to said sleeve position.

Atari-Studs so as to pro- -e forked lever in such deitllithe,irollers 8:2- reach a .i-the it charm,fiTupon tne rockto secure it; vin-theadesired position o fi,;a.(l-:- kd ace justment. I -shatt-fl69 is secured the split hub 84 of an is sihown, Secured; to the; "-OVGI'lyiH m "llTfl-B5P'POVldGd"llpOn its opposite he i-spa'eede and apert-ured ears 8G The bracket 58 front end of the, base, 1 Withthe, parallel rodsi faceav'itl 5? and 59 inclined*tov 'tlm-ni'ertioal: pivotal ,hetwveeh in i l ibis-formed with a longitupins -15. l8 andfiOQtherod 43, beingso sus g lina'lgrooxe 8.4 I Iounted upon a pivotal tained byv its swingingflfi ame42.nthat it 218- pin 88 passing.gthrough; said cars 86 is a SIUHQS a position zin parallelism w.iththe-' 1 ods -lateh.. lever-%9 sith a-noutwardly offset tail 5? and 59 when directly above them correa 90. presed-i. wvar lly-hy means of a. spring sponding with the cutting positiOn Qty-the -91 interposed between the-same and thebotcutting elements." i sic V tom .ot1a cavity 92 in the arm 8;). The latch- The vertically arranged. pin fi olwiously. lever. 89 is inminra llyimaintained hy its spring affords a fulcrum upon which il'lQ SWllIQ'lflQ within the groove 87 lot the arm with frame 4:2 and the connected cutter-lever its j)F()jQ(-tlflf portion. 93 extending beyond move to confine the-bodily trai 'eli ol -the e the oilipos' cf waid arm and into a ting clementsttm .c ircuilarypath. grce of curvature; determined l t:1nce:;. ()f the fulcrum-pi v 1 "nent-anulnison. tion by which it lSmFLlIJIdlHQtl n alimmfizntu a; The roekwrrr t" "provided at its rearin its adjustment along .th e ,fixed;guid ,Mod Aral-dredge w (L inclined guide wing 95 57. By simultaneous Nljt1$effl9fil3gflf itheqtowinsure ilative positioning of sleeves 51 and 56 lengthufi uot thhi rQ Df' ftlle assuming interlocking tire gupportingrods; theradi ficur iatu ge positionan isuproitided upon its opposite of the travelling movementsro th cu,ttinv n-gailarlpq disposed lug 96 elements maybe: correspondingl 0a top-screw 97' adapted to en- 'lhe cutter-lever armiQS is slim -gage=tha corresponding edge. of the arm 5. with an upwardly. extending hos. h v Loosely n minted fll'iOfifllHllHl) ()3 of the ing a,h,all-stud 63 which is embraced- Nithehulr 98 Man upwardly strap at onepend of alink GnliaYi-i'ig' at t. tormedwith a longituopposite end a similarstrapeimhracingvtheii series, ltUlSiTG-PSOTliOltS 100 disposed hall-shaped extremity 65.01 theist'ud, tr fluro at an mglo. t lr a similar-series of holes 101 jecting laterallyfrom onenfac e of the roeltcit-arm -;ti.7and entered by the con arm 67 which is formed withthe tubular huh --"ing-';the knurled head 103 65%. The hub 68 ot' the rock-armfii' isglooselyi f :as through corresponding fitted upon the roiik-shat'ttif),which nis;mount pecti-iie arms to lock them ed in hearings/7 0 projecting tromfthewtop: tterent" posit'ions "of relative of the bed 1. I angular adpistmcnt. The head of the pin Fixed upon the-rearwaiiil end of,=-the.rocl .4102 has a ct-inical-eweuti ic flange 103' formed halit 69 is the huh 71 oti-alateral crankyarm 1: f t1,lcucaineportion103" which is 72 carl', 'ing the rollQ'r-stlld 7.3 diSposPd Wi-tlllfiatti-uied ui n hnomide at 1 3". the outer in the range of n oye uent ofljthe might; fiauge'heingadapted-to enter lower edge Tl of one brang'h T5 of :a forleci-l lever [(6 tulcrunped at, f 'flupon henpost rising tronr the hase l. saidlever hfiYing upwardly extending, arm 79in one tan-ego which is secured hujSc-rewshotheforwardly vol-thing lQt rhe opcration of the mayajchim -;-.The pin may he rcmovcd by turning extending tappetniemhei;81; .4 a.

Thg lwangula uppergf dge ofiqtheitappet-wthe. satne l ring" :th'e" fiatted Side of its 130 a zmn we -normally locked got-githe arm- 99 against the allyj ot-hhn-h it may be jingvto secure the pin against flange into register with the edge of said lip and then withdrawing the same for insertion into a different pair of holes. The hub 98 of the arm 99 has a lateral lug 104 through which is tapped the contact stud-screw 105 provided with the janrnut 106 for retaining .t in the proper adjustment.

The rock-shaft has secured thereon the :ollar 107 between which and one of the .iearings it is embraced by the spring 103 having one end-secured in said bearing 1nd the other end attached to the collar 107. lhis spring acts upon the rock-shaft 69 to -ause the point of the contact stud-screw 10.3 to normally rest u ion the upper warped airfare of the stop-plate 109 sustained by in upwardly extending arm 110 whose hub ,11 is fixed upon the fulcrum-pin 112 jourialed within a suitable bearing boss 113 of he base 1. The fulcrum-pin 112 has fixed ipon its inner end the collar 114 between vhich and the bearing 113 it is provided with he spring 11:) having its opposite ends coniected with said parts to insure the normal ontact of one edge of the stop-plate with he bottom of a recess 1 formed therefore in he upper face of the base.

The outer face of the arm 110 is shown ormed with an undercut longitudinal :roove 116 in which is fitted a similarly haped nut 117 entered by a clamp-screw 11S mssing through a slot 119 of an overlying rm 120 of a plural-armed operating lever oosely journaled upon the fulcrum-pin 112 nd having oppositely extending lateral rnis 121 and 122. Fitted upon the arm 120 s a sliding cap 123 entered by and movable rith the screw 118 in its various positions of engthwise adjustment and provided with a iteral projection in the form of a pointer 24 overlying a scale 125 provided upon a iteral extension or wing 126 of the arm 120.

The outer portion of the arm 121 is aperared to receive the eyed end of a rod 127 fi'ording a connection with a knee-lever or readle beneath the machine The backwardly extending arm 122 caries at its extremit a lateral stud-pin 12S aving a range of movement about the fulrum-pin 112 crossing the outer extremity t the stop-spring 129 secured at itsoppote end upon the lug 1.30 sustained by the ase 1 and normally resting upon the stud- 2rew 131 of the base 1 under the action of ie thrust-screw 132 passing through a lug 33 upon the base 1 and locked in the reuired position of adjustment by means of ie jam-nut 134. The stud-screw 131 may be nsidered as a stop for predetermining a lltfllll definite operative position of the )ring 129.

The section 28 of the cutter-lever is formed ith a boss 28 carrying the roller-stud 135 iapted for engagement by the lower face of ie transverse rail 136 sustained by the vertical slide-bar 137 which has in its upper portion the slot 138 and at its lower end the lateral ear 139 carrying the depending studscrew 1&0 which passes through the apertured lug 141 of the block 1-12 to which the bar 137 is slidingly fitted. The slot 138 is entered by the shank of the guide-screw 143 tapped into the block 142.

The block 142 is secured upon the vertically sliding rod Ill which is journaled within the rigid bracket 145 forming a part of the machine frame and is normally maintained in initial upper position by means of the surrouiuling spring 146 interposed between the bracket 14.3 and a collar 1&7 fixed upon the upper end of the rod 144;. The slide-bar 137 is yieldingly maintained in its lower position, in which it rests upon a shoulder afforded by the block 42, by means of a spring 148 interposed between the head of the stud-screw 140 and the lug 141.

The block 112 has upon its inner face the lateral roller-stud 1.19 adapted to engage the lower edge of the cam-rib 150 upon the periphery of the cam-wheel 15, this cam-rib being provided with downwardly and convergently inclined opposite ends and is in the form of a plate having slots 151 extending lengthwise thereof and entered by the fastening screws 152 by which it is adjustably secured to the canncylinder 1:"). In the rotation of the canrwheel the encounter of the roller-stud by the inclined advance end of the cam-rib causes the depression of the block 142- in opposition to the spring 146, the slidebar 137 being at such time prevented from full downward movement, under which condition the spring 148 is compressed.

The spring 1-16 obviously serves to normally maintain the block 142. and with it the slide-bar 137, raised to permitthe separating of the cutter elements under the action of the spring 37; but when the block 0 142 is forced downwardly in opposition to the spring 14-6 by encounter of the rollerstud 149 with the cam-rib 150, the spring 148, acting as a yielding connection between the parts 137 and 142, serves as a cushion 115 so as to impose merely a light pulling action upon thebar 137 which carries with it the rail 136 exerting a yielding engagement with the roller-stud 135 and thus depresses the cutter-carrying lever with sufficient force in 0 opposition to the spring 37 to produce a mere nipping action of the opposed cut-ting elements upon the work preparatory to its travelling or work-shifting movement to ward the stitching point.

The relative timing of the clamp- operating cam elements 25 and 26 and the worknipping cam-element 150 is preferably such that the clamp remains closed upon the work at the completion of a buttonhole 13 109, as represented in Fig. 5, and, the coupling pin 102 having been withdrawn, the rock-arm ($7 is set in the required relation to the arm 99 with corresponding holes in the respective arms in alincment, and the cou-' pling pin reinserted. This determines the normal retracted position of the ball-stud 65, and hence of the travelling cutting device having the described link connection therewith, and insures a normal length of traverse of the cutting, device into stitching position.

The coupling screw-stud 118 may be loosened and shifted within the slot 119 to adjust the relation of the overlying arms 110 and 120 and at the same time set the stud 128 at the required normal distance from the stop-spring 129 so as to fix the extent of predetermined increase of throw of the rock-arm 67 under the action of its actuating cam but varying the initial retracted position of such rock-arm through a manual shift of the stop-plate 109.

The machine is started by rocking the shaft 5, either by drawing down the treadlcrod 7 or pressing down the hand-lever 8, whereby the feed-cam is set in motion and acts through the described connections to first eli'ect the nipping of the work by the cutting elements and then open the workholder preparatory to the advance of the cutting device toward the stitch-forming mechanism under the action of the studs or actuating elements 82 upon the tappet-arm or follower 81. so as to advance the work through the work-holder a distance equivalent to the spacing apart of buttonholes for which the machine has been previously adjusted. The upper cutting element or knife 35 is now depressed through the work to cut the hutttonhole slit and permitted to rise and the separately operable pairs of clamplug, elements composing the work-holder are successively closed upon the work while the cutting device retires to retracted position. The stitch-formingmechanism is now thrown into action and the stitching of the buttonholc is periormed. after which. through the usual action of the stop-motion device. the machine comes to rest in the initial position above described.

In the normal operation of the machine in producing uniformly spaced buttonholes in an article such as ashoe upper. the-cutting and working of the buttonholes and the shift of the wort to space them apart is effected automatically without any special attention to the cutting device on the part of the operator. However. it sometimes happens that in different parts of a series of buttonholcs it is desirable to vary an initial spacing by a fixed or predetermined amount. such amount being determined by the relative adjustment of the arms 110 and 120 as before described. This change of spacing may be readily efl'ected in the present machine by d 'awing down the arm 1:21 preparatory to a but-tonhole-producing cycle to such extent as to bring the stud 128 into contact with the stop-spring 129 thereby shifting the stop-plate 109 to the left, as viewed in Fig. 5, the contact stud 105 thus being caused under the action of the spring 108 to assume a new predetermined positionupon the stopplate 109, and the initial retracted position of the cutting device being changed accordingly. In the subsequent advance oi the cutting device to its uniform advance position adjacent the stitch-formin nu-chanism, it now performs a traverse o'l ditl'e-rent extent from the normal and imparts to the work a corrcspmiding advance movement. In case a further change from the normal work-shifting movement is desired. this may be effected by moving the lever-arm 121 to move the stud 128 beyond the normal stopping position of the spring 129. thereby thrusting the same backward to such extent as may be desired so as to give the stop-plate 109 a movement of an amplitude arbitrarily determined by the operator, with acorresponding change in the initial retracted position oi the cutting device.

It is evident that the form and relation of the stop-plate 109 to the swinging arm 99 and the contact-stud 105 carried thereby will be determined accm'ding to the nature of the desired, changes to be ciiectcd in the normal shift of the work to spacc the button holes; and in the present instance the operative face of the stop-plate is arranged cccentrically to the fulcrum-pin 112 in such manner that the manual shift oi the arm 110 from initial position would effect a retirement of the cutting device from normal rctracted position in a dircction opposite to the stitching point. It is however evident that the effect of such movement of the contact-plate may be determined by the form of its operative face.

In Fig. 9 is represented a. modification in which the extren'iity of the stop-plate 109 rests upon a stiti flat spring 179 secured within the recess 1" of the machine base by means of :1V screw 179. In this case the opposite end of the stop-plate is shown extended beyond that of the preceding figures and suitably shaped. .With. this construction. the depression of the trcadle-rod 127 acts as in the preceding figures to cfiect an increase in the spacing apart of the buttonholes; but by an upward pressure upon the treadle rod. the end of the stop-plate forcibly displaces the spring 178 toward the bottom of the recess 1" to present the opposite extremity of the stop-plate to the contactstud 105. thereby having the effect of shifting the initial position of the cutting device toward the stitching point and reducing the spacing apart of the buttonholes.

From the foregoing description, it is evident that in its broadest aspect, the present invention 18 susceptible of emliiodnnent in different types and classes of sewing ma ments. and means including a slut'table ele-.

chines involving the manual variation of the normal throw of a reciprocating element either to a predetermined degree or to an ot' the work and the second the cutting of the buttonhole slit; and it is evident that the closing of the cutting elements may be effected by a single stage movement preparatory to the travel from retracted to stitching position. It is also evident that this feature of shifting the work to space successive groups of stitches thereon may be embodied in machines not provided with travelling cutting devices by employment of special travelling work-shifting means with provision for gripping the work preparatory to their work-advancing movements.

It is equally obvious that in its several aspects the present improvement is not limited. in other respects than those above noted, to the specific construction and arrangement of its componentparts. in accordance with the present disclosure, but it is susceptible of modification in very large degree within the scope of the present invention.

Having thus set forth the nature ofthe invention. what I claim herein is 1. In a sewing machine. in combination. a driven element. a driving element with means acting through the same for normally imparting to the driven element uniform movements. and means for selectively varying the amplitude of said movements either to a predetermined limit or beyond said limit. said means including a manually shiitablc element and coacting devices for arresting movement of said element at a pre determined position under a normal impulse, one of said devices including means which shifts under an abnormal impulse to permitfurther movement of said manually shiftable clement.

2. In a sewing machine. in combination. a driven element. a driving element with means acting through the same for normally imparting to the driven element uniform movements. and means including a shiftable element for selectively varying the amplitude of said movements either to a predetermined limit or beyond said limit, said last-mentioned means including a resistance device interposed in the path of movement of said element and a stop for determining a certain definite operative position of said resistance device.

3. In a sewing machine,.in,combination. a driven element,adriving element w ithnieans acting through the same torunorxnally impartingto the driven element- .unit'orm move-v ment for selectively. varying the amplitude of said movements either to a predetermined limit or beyond saidlimit; said last mentionedmeans including a resistance device which, \vhen displaced by said element. will automaticallyreturn to initial position.

4. Tu a sewing machine. in combination, a driven'elemcnt, a driving elei'nent with means acting through the :stlllle tor normally imparting-to the driven element uniform movements. means for selectively varying at will the amplitude ot'sa id movementseither to a predetermined limit orzbeyond said limit, and independent means for adjusting the predetermined limit of variation of said move- 'ments. I

5. In asewing machine. in combination. a driven element.a driving element with means acting through the same for normally imparting to the driven elementmovements of predetermined amplitude. means including a reciprocatory member for varying at will the amplitude of said movements in a predetermined degree. and means including a yielding resistance disposed intermediate the limits of movement of said reciprocatory member and serving optionally to arrest the latter 'or to permit its continued movement.

6'. In a sewing machine. driving and driven -elements with a connection between them for producing normal movements of the driven element, and controlling means applied to said connection for effecting variations in the extent of said movements and comprising a reciprocatory member with means for applyingthereto a yielding re sistance at a definite point between the extremes of its range of movement.

7. In a sewing machine. driving and driven elementswith a connection between them for producing normalmovements of the driven element, and controlling means applied to producing a variable throwot' the driven clement.a shittable device tor adjusting said connectlon. and means for limiting the throw-varying movement of said shiftable device under a normal impulse. said means being constructed to permit a further move ment ofsaid shift-able device under an ab- -normal impulse and to return auton'iatically to initial limiting position prior to the execution of a subsequent normal impulse.

9. In a sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism. feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-spacing movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work. work-shifting means for advancing the wo1k in a curved path transversely of the stitch-spacing movements produced by said feeding mechanism, and adjusting means operable while the machine is in operation to vary the extent of the work-advancing movements.

It). In a sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism. feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-spacing movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work. work-shifting means for advancing the work in a diti'erent direction from the stitch-spm-ing movements produced by said feeding mechanism. and manually controlled means for varying at will the extent of the \vork-zulvancing movements of said work-shifting means without stopping the nnu-hine.

11. In a sewing machine. in combination, stitch-forming mechanism. feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-spacing movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work. work-shifting means for advancing the work to said feeding mechanism. and manually actuated means including a reciprocatory member and a yielding resistance therefor adapted to come into action upon said member intermediate its limits of movement whereby the extent of the normal work-advancing movements may. at will. be varied to or beyond a predetermined limit.

12. In a sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism. feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-sl'iacing movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work, work-shifting means for advancing the work to said feeding mechanism. manually actuated means including a reciprocatory member and a yielding resistance intermediate its extreme positions whereby the extent of the normal work-advancing movements mav be varied up to or beyond a predetermined limit. and means for adjusting the position of said yielding resistance relative to the extreme positions of said reciprocatory member.

13. In a sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism. feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-spacing moven'ients between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work. work-shifting means for advancing the work to said feeding mechanism. means for adjusting the length of the normal work-advancing movements. and manually actuated means including a reciprocatory member and a yielding resistance interposed at a predetermined point intermediate the limits of movement of said reciprocatory member whereby the extent of the normal work-advancing move ments may be varied up to or beyond a predetermined limit.

14. In a buttonhole sewing machine in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a \v0rk-hol(iler. feeding mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around a buttonhole, work-shifting means including a reciprocatory work-engaging element for advancing the work to said work-holder between sewing periods. and means for varying the length of travel of said work-engaging element to vary the spacing of the but tonholes.

1.5. In a buttonhole sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and \\'orkl10lder to sew around a buttonhole, work-shifting means including a to-and-fro moving work-engaging element for advancing the work to said work-holder, means connected with and actuated by a moving part of the machine for imparting a normal to-and-fro travel to said work-engaging element. and means for varying the length of travel of said work-engaging element.

16. In a lmttonhole sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder. means for producing relative bodily traveling movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the workholder to sew around a buttonhole, workshifting means out of engagement with the work during the sewing and adapted to engage and advance the work to said work-- holder between sewing periods. and manually controlled means for rendering the work-shifting means ineifective without affecting the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holder.

17. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder. feeding mechanism for pro ducing relative bodily traveling movements between the stitch-forn'ling mechanism and the work-holder. work-shifting means for presenting the work to the work-holder. and manually controlled means operable without stopping the machine for varying the normal action of said work-shifting means.

18. In a buttonhole sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder. feeding mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around a buttonhole. means for advancing the work to the workholder between sewing peroids. said means including a work-engaging element movable in opposite directions toward and away from sewing position. a stop for limiting its movement in one direction, and means for shiftintense I ing said stop to vary the spacing of the buttonholes. l

19. In a. buttonhole sewing machine, in combination. stitch-forming mechanism, Worlshifting means for presenting the work to the stitch-forming mechanism including a moving element and a stop for limiting its movement, manually controlled means including a reciprocatory member for shifting said stop into different operative relations with said element, and means acting upon said reciprooat-ory member optionally to limit its movement to a predetermined point or to permit such movement beyond said point.

20. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, workshifting means for presenting the work to the stitch-forming mechanism, said means including a work-engaging element movable in opposite directions toward and away from the stitch-forming mechanism, a stop for limiting the retrograde movement of said element away from the stitch-forming mechanism, means for adjusting the initial position of said stop, and manually controlled means operable at will for shifting said stop into different-operative relations with said element.

21. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in co bination, stitch-forming mechanism, workshifting means for presenting the work to the stitch-forming mechanism including a moving element and'a stop for limiting its movement, manually controlled means including a reciprocatory member for shifts ing said stop into difierent operative relations with said element, and means acting at a predetermined point in the range of movement of said member for forcibly resisting its movement beyond the same while permitting its movement throughout the entire range of movement.

22. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a traveling huttonhole cutting device, means for shifting it toward and from the stitchforming mechanism, and means for varying the length of travel of said cutting device.

23. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a buttonhole cutting device, means for shift; ing it from retracted position toward and from the stitch-forming mechanism, means for closing it and maintaining it closed upon the work while in retracted position and during its travel therefrom, respectively,

and means for varying the length of travel of said cutting device;

24. In a buttonhole sewingmachine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a travelling buttonhole cutting device, means for shifting it toward and from the stitchforming mechanism and manually controlled element.

means for varying the length of travel of said cutting device.

25.1na sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a travelling upon the work, and means for imparting travelling movements to said elements and comprising an actuating element and a tollower therefor with provision for shifting of the follower to different positions within the range of movement of said actuating 26, In. a. sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a travelling work-gripping device movable toward and from the same, means for closing said gripping device upon the work, and means for imparting travelling movements to said device and comprising an actuating element and a 'follower therefor, normally acting means for setting the follower at a predetermined position within the range of action of said actuating element, and manually controlled means for shifting at will said position without disturbing said normally actin positioning means.

27. n a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a workholder, feeding mechanism for relatively moving thestitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around a buttonhole, a travelling work-gripping device movable toward and from the work-holder, means for closing said gripping device upon the work, 'and means for imparting travelling movements to said device and comprising a spring-pressed reciprocatory member connected therewith, actuating means therefor, and a shifting stop element for determining the initial position of said reciprocatory member.

528. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a travelling work-gripping device movable toward and from the same, means for closing said gripping device upon the work, and means for imparting travelling movements to said device and comprising a spring-pressed reciprocatory member connected therewith, actuating means therefor, a movable stop element for determining the initial position of said reciprocatory member, means'for shitting said stop element into difit'erent relations with said reciprocatory member, and a yielding, stop into contact with and beyond Which said stopelement shifting means may be moved. I

29. In a. sewing machine, in combination, stitclnforming mechanism, a travelling work-gripping device movable toward and from the same, means for closing said gri ping device upon the work, and means for imparting travelling movements to said device and comprising a spring-pressed reciprocatory member connected therewith, actuating means therefor, a movable stop element for determining the initial position of said reciprocatory member, means for shiftint, said stop element into diiterent relations with said reciprocatory member, a stopspring within the range of action of the stop element shifting means, and a fixed abutment normally receiving the thrust of said stop-spring upon the side thereof engaged by said shifting means.

30. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a travelling work'gripping device'movable toward and from the same, means for closing said gripping device upon the work, and means for imparting travelling movements to said device and comprising a spring-pressed rea travelling worlcnipping device for shiftmg the Work relatively to the work-holder between buttonhole stitching operations,

means for varying the length of travel of ciprocatory member connected therewith,

actuating means therefor, a movable stop element for determining the initial position of said reciprocatory member, means for shifting said stop element into different relations with said reciprocatorymember, a stop-spring within the range of action of the stop element shifting means,'a fixed abutment normally receiving the thrust of said stop-spring upon the side thereof engaged by said shitting means, and means for adjusting the initial position of said shifting means relatively to said stop-spring.

31. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a travelling work-gripping device movable toward and from the same, means for closing said'gripping deviceupon the work. and means for imparting travelling movements to said device and comprising an actuating element, a spring-pressed reciprocatory member connected with said device and carrying a follower disposed within the range of action of said actuating element, adjusting means for varying the initial position of said follower relative to the range of movement oi said actuating element, and a shifting stop element-carrier operatively connected with said spring-pressed member with manually controlled means acting thereon for further controlling the iosition of said follower.

32. In a. buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitclrforming mechanism, a work-holder, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around a buttonhole,

said-nipping device, and means for rendering said device ineffective.

34;. In a buttonhole sewing, machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the. stitch-forming mechanism and Work-holder to sew around a buttonhole, a travelling work-nipping device for shifting the work relative to the work-holder between buttonhole stitching operations, travel-producing means therefor, means for closing said work-nipping device upon the WOII preparatory to a travelling movement, and means for rendering said travel-pro tlucing means ineffective.

35. A. buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitching devices and a workclanip relatively movable to sew about a buttonhole, a work-feeder, mechanism for advancing the feeder, for the purpose of spacing the buttonholes, while the clamp is opened and for returning it to initial position before the completion of the succeeding buttonhole making cycle, and means for varyinq the spacing stroke of the feeder.

36. 1s. buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, mechanism for relatively moving them to sew about a buttonhole, a work spacer, mechanism for advancing the spacer to space the work while the clamp is opened and "for returning it to initial position before the completion of the succeeding buttonhole making cycle, and means for varying the spacing stroke of the spacer.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

ALBERT H. DE VOE.

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