US1477744A - Reversible coat - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 18, 192"}.

477,744 H. J. YAGHUBIAN REVERSIBLE COAT Filed Dec. 8, 1922 Patented Dec. 18. 1923.. i

rrao STATES Wt orator..

HAGOP J. YAGHUBIAN, OJE 1\TEW YORK, N. Y.

REVERSIBLE com.

I Application filed December 8, 1922. Serial Ito. 605,601.

To allwkom it may concern: of the elements, as will be more readily un- Be it known that I, HAGOP J. YAGHUBIAN, derstood from the following description and a citizen of Armenia, residing at New York, accompanying drawings, wherein, 55

in the county of New York and State of Figure 1 is a plan of the pattern for the New York, have invented certain new and front and back of the ooa useful Improvements in Reversible Coats, Fig. 2 is a similar view of the pattern of which the followin is a specification. for the sleeve,

The invention has or an object to pro- Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the complete 60 vide a coat which may be worn with either coat, with one side held so as to show the side presented outwardly, and therefore inner side of the garment,

adapted to be made in a form for use in fair Fig. 4 is a fragmentary detail of the or rainy weather, with appropriate appearsleeve, ance and function. It is aspecial object Fig. 5 is a further detail of the sleeve 65 of the invention to enable the production and strap.

of such a coat in a form that will have a There is illustrated in Fig. 3 a coat repgood set and appearance with either side resenting one embodiment of the device as turned outwardly. It is also a special obactually produced heretofore, in which a ject of the invention to enable the produccheviot goods has been used upon one side, 70 tion of such a coat with all of the seams and a cravenette serge upon the other. In

by which the inner and outer elements are the illustration, the serge is represented at joined stitched on the inside and concealed. 10 and the cheviot at 11 upon the inner side A further important object of the invention, of the garment as shown. The inner side specifically is to provide a construction with the cheviot goods is utilized for fair 7 whereby the set of the shoulder, the cut of Weather, while the cravenette ser e is used the sleeve and the upper back of the coat for rainy weather. In the serge si estraight will be correct for both sides of the garpockets 12 are provided, while 'upon the side ment, no matter which is turned outwardly, 1.1 of the coat patch pockets 13 are shown, and whereby the elements which is underthe body of Which is a little differently poso neath will not interfere with the set of the sitioned, so that the contents of the two outer one. Sockets will not interfere or cause undue I am aware that attempts have been made lstortlon of the coat when worn.

. to provide satisfactory coats of this char- The coat as a whole comprises essentially actor, and have observed that these are obtwo complete coat elements, either of which as jectionable for the reason that one side or may form the outside, while the other forms the other, when turned inwill not function the lining, according to the way the coat properly in co-rela'tion with the outer eleis turned. The details ofthe patterns and ment, and it is not possible to attain as other features of the coat, ordinarily, except good a fit as could be attained if a single with regard to the pockets, are identical. o0 coat correspondin to one side of the double The two coat elements are sewn together garment were ma e. My invention, on the along the front and bottom edges, and the contrary, enables .a coat to be produced outer edges of the collar and lapel. which will have as good appearance as a In order that the two coat elements may sin le specially made coat of a like kind, properly set without mutual disturbance, e5 wit either side presented outwardly. some peculiarities of cut of the pattern has It is generally recognized that thefitting of been found necessauy, as well as a special sleeves on garments is an important element method of manufacture in the stitching tointhe good appearance of style of a garment, gether of the elements. In the making of and my invention enables a coat to be made each coat element, the front 14 is cut to a too in conformity with the strictest dictates of pattern as indicated in Fig. 1, by the lead an fashion. ()ther general and specific objects, arrows, and the back is cut on the pattern advantages and features of invention reside shown at 15. The sleeve patterns are shown in the method, form and assembled relation in- Fig. 2, the front and back elements 16 acent the shoulder,

shoulder,

.on the inner seam of the sleeve,

and 17, each requiring a special pattern which differ as represented, and are stitched together first at the edges which are shown in abutment in Fig. 2, and then at the outer edges. The edges 18 of the front and back 14 and 15, are stitched together after WlHCll the sleeve, after the front and back are stitched together, is sewed to the recessed edge 18 of front and back, with the upper end of the pieces 16 and 17 abutting the edges 19 and 20, and with the corners 21 and 22 of the parts 16 and 17 respectively, immediately abutting the corners 23 and 24 of the front and back at the top. The two sides of one coat element being formed in this manner, they are stitched togethenat the back edge 25 and a collar 26, of which one-half is shown in Fig. 1 is then stitched to the top alined edge portion of the two front pieces, the sleeve and the back.

It should be noted that the front sleeve at the piece 16 at the outer seam 27 is formed at that edge with a recessed part 28' extending from closely adjacent the elbow to adwhile from just without the shoulder to the edge of the collar, it is formed with a convex edge 29, which extends over a distance of about 10 inches. The corresponding portion 30 of the back member of the sleeve is formed with a slight. convexity immediately adjacent the .this convexity, however, being much less than that 29 before mentioned. In stitching these parts together, it is necessary to stretch the goods of one and to cramp the goods of the other, in the manner familiar in the art, with the result that a good shoulder conformation is attained without any elements which will tend to be conspicuous by showing any irregularities of surface upon the outer part of the garment when it is worn, no matter which side is turned out. In making the elements 10 and 11, they are completed in the same manner as they would for the application of a lining, the sleeves being similarly fitted, with the exception that no lining is in the sleeve separately, unhemmed and unattached, and a further exception that a short slot is formed at 32 formedby omitting the stitching between the parts 16 and 17, for a proper distance. Also, a large opening or slot is left on the inner seam of the sleeve for a distance, as indicated at 33, in Fig. 2, in the seam of one of the elements 10 and 11 the side seams of the other sleeves being completed in every particular, except the slot .32. When the two coat elements are to be put together, they are laid together with their right sides opposed and contacting, and the front edges 34, the bottom edges 35 and the outer edge 36 of the collar and the edges 37 of the lapel and collar ends are stitched down upon a machine in the and the end edges 31 are left usual way, and these may be finished inaccordance with an practice approved, in the tailorin art. Tlie edges of the goods immediate y abutting the slot 32 may be turned back and pressed to form as the sleeves are made, and should be carefully positioned for alinement of the slot in one sleeve with the slot in the corresponding sleeve which is joined therewith.

After attachment of the elements 10 and 11 as described, it should be noted that the sleeve of the two garments are then without an mutual connection, and also, customarily, I do not form cuff molds nor attach the sleeve straps 38 permanently, although, if desired, it may be attached to the wrong side of one sleeve so that the stra will ex- .tend therefrom toward the outer side of the sleeve and toward the outer seam. The belt loop 39 may be attached where required before the elements 10 and 11 are connected. After stitching of the elements 10 and 11 together, as mentioned, the complete garment is drawn outwardly through one of the openings 33 left in one of the sleeves, which it is found is readily practicable to accomplish, and this brings the. right side of the goods of the elements 10 and 11 on the outer side, or facing away from each other. The connecting seams ma then be pressed down and given afront e ge stitching 40 to imart the desired finish to the seam. The

utton holes are then cutand Worked, care being taken to have the goods accurately laid when this is done. It should be noted that in making the finished edge stitching working of the button hole 41 at each side,

which is performed in separate operations ordinarily. Buttons 42 are then secured upon the coat, care being taken that the buttons on each side match the respective goods, and the buttons on one face are put directly op site the buttons on the other.

fter pulling of the two garment elements through the opening 33 of one sleeve, the sleeve on the two elements 10 and 11 at each side are adjusted carefully one within the other, and the outer end portions of the sleeves drawn outwardly through the slots 33 which have been left in one of each set of sleeves, and the outer edges 31 then stitched together, after which they may be thrust inwardly again through the opening 33 and the sleeve pressed to proper shape at the end. The slots 32 will then be in position for accurate alinement, and the portion of each sleeve there adjacent will be unattached. Thestrap if not previously at tached to one of the sleeves, may be then in- I stitched to the sleeve,

aerajrec element and outer sleeves a short distance, and then secured to the sides of the slots 32 on each sleeve, with suitably matched threads, being attached only at the same side of the slotin each sleeve, so thatthe Opposite side of the slot in the two sleeve elements may be then ther. The completed double sleeve has t on a slot assing therethrough immediately adjacent t e base of the strap, so that the strap may be thrust through the slot to position the strap at either side as required. The strap is formed with material on one side matching the element 10 and the material on the other matches the element 11, as may be understood. A belt 45 is pro vided, which also has material at opposite sides matching the respective elements 10 and 11. Buttons 46 are secured in accurate alinement with each other on both sides of spaced suitable distances from the slot 32, and preferabl on the front piece 16 of the sleeve, in each instance, or so that the strap may be extended over the front of the sleeve for attachment. j

When the sleeve ends have been attached, the openings 33 may be closed by handst tching, of a fine order, and as this stitching is in a seam not readily seen, any slight imperfections will be in a position not likely to be observed. However,-it is possible to perform this work so that it is practically invisible, if the thread is well matched and of a small size.

If desired, difierent facings may be used upon the collar pieces 26 from the oods of either the elements 10 or 11, or t is material may differ only on one side if desired.

The lapel 47 at one side of the double garment may be formed with button holes, and a button 48 provided on the front of the coat just under the collar on each side and on each element 10 and '11. It should also be noted that button holes are formed in each side of the coat at the front edge, as shown in Fig. 3, and buttons also provided at each side and on each element 10 and 11 immediately inward of the button holes, so that the coat may be buttoned over in either direction no matter which side of the garment is exposed outwardly.

* removal and after turnin In using the garment as described, when worn with one of the elements 10 or 11 outside, and it is desired to reverse the garment, this may be readily accomplished by turning the sleeves inside out, The belt is removed from the loop of the first side presented outwardly, and readjusted through the loops on the side which is last required. The strap on the sleeve will be found on the inner side of the s eeve, and it is simply inserted through the slot 32 and drawn outwardly,

after which it may function as required, for a loose or tight fit, with the new adjustment.

It is an advantage of the method and structure employed that the ,coat may be manufactured by very simple operations and very cheaply hecause of the possibility of usin the sewing machine on practically all of t e seams, and in the attachment of the two elements possible to put the garment out at a price 10 and 11, which makes it which will compare very favorably with the cost of ordinary overcoats of similar styles. It isalso an advantage of the invention that the general style of the coat may be made to conform to various fashions in favor. It should be noted that by the peculiar formation at 29 of the front element 16 of the sleeve, in conjunction with the simple form 30 of the back, the seam 27 is caused to aline centrally over the shoulder, extending radially from the neck of the wearer, so that a good efiect is presented when the 'arment is worn, in addition to the fact t at the shoulder is given a good bul e causing it to conform snugly to the gure of the wearer. This construction also obviates the number of seams required at the shoulder, lessening the liability of irregularities in contour by reason of the bulk of seams on the arment which have to be underneath when t e coat is worn.

' What is claimed l The method of producing a garment of the character described'consisting in making two complete garment elements including sleeves, with the exception of a turning slot in one sleeve at each side, sewing the two garment elements together at all boundary edges excepting the outer ends of the sleeves, drawing the two garment elements outwardly through one of said turning slots completely,- drawing mutually adjacent sleeve ends outward through the slot there adjacent, sewing the mutually adjacent sleeve ends together, thrusting them in through the slots and then sewing up the s ots.

2. In a coat, a sleeve having a front and a rear portion, said portions bein curved at the upper outer edges, the radii o curvature of said front and rear portions being different, and the length of the curved edge of the front portion greater than that of the corresponding edge of'the rear portion, both edges being united to form a seam by crowdin v the longer edge to the shorter edge for t e purpose of having the outer seam formed by the junction of these two portions lie substantially on the median line of the arm as a prolongation of the shoulder seam.

3. In a coat, a sleeve having a front and a\ rear portion, said portions being curved at the upper outer edges, the outer edge of the front portion having an edge that curves outwardly at the upper part and then outer seam formed by the unction of these curves inwardly the length of the said edge two portions lie substantially on the median of the front portion being greater than that line of the arm as a prolongation of the 10 of the corresponding edge of the rear porshoulder seam; 5 tion, both edges being united to form a. In testimony whereof I have aflixed my seam by crowding the longer edge to the signature. shorter edge for the purpose of having-the HAGOP J. YAGHUBIAN.

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