US1326659A - A corpoeation - Google Patents

Description

C. H. HGELSTEN.

SEWING MACHlNE.

APPLICATIQN FILED mf-w 5, 19H.

.'E.,326,659 15mm@ Bee. 30, 919

3 SHEETS-SHEET l.

C. H. T. HAGELSTEINY SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION man MAY5,19|1.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2y l2 willful-Ell! ja Patented Dee. S?, lE

Hl T. HAGELSTEN.

'SEWING MACHINE. MQLICATION' FILED MAY 5.1911.

aeni'ed Dec. 3U, 191,9

s SHEETSHEET s.

37 as' as .q

-venor. 'i uw y n HTHageisten @wifi4 35] Y7 www4/M i Nays hole are formed,

UNITED sTATEs PATENT oEEioE.

CHRISTIAN H. Tl HAGELsTEIrt, or BOSTON, MAssAcHUsETTs, assreitos, To Tais BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MANE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Patented Dec. 30, 199,

Application filed May 5, 1917. Serial No. 166,594. i

To all whom t may concern: y

Be it known that I, CHmsiiAN H. T. HA-

cELs'rEiN, a citizen ot the United States. re-v siding at Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Tmprovement 1n Sewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like charactersvon the drawing' representing like parts.

This invention relates to sewing machines and particularly to buttonhole chines which are provided with both upper thread handling mechanism and under thread-handling mechanism, and one of the objects of the invention is to provide 'a novel imechanism for manipulating` the under thread Aat the end ot' astitching operation on a buttonh'ole so as todraw out from'the thread supply a suiiicient llength of undei tln'ead to insure the proper formation of the initial stitch ot' thnext stitching operation and at the same time to cut the thread `close to the underside of the woi'k.

vide a mechanism ot this type which is adapted also to similarly manipulate the filling' or stay-cord which is delivered to the edge of the buttonhole from beneath and over which the edge stitches of vthe buttoni and to otherwise improve buttonholesewing machines, 'all as more fully hereinafter set forth.

In order to give an understanding of my invention I have illustrated in the drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now be described, after which the novely features will be pointed out inthe appended claims. l

Figure l ot' the drawings is a side view of a portion of a buttonhole sewing' machine showing' my improvements applied thereto;

Fig'. 2 is a fragmentary front view showing the bed plate and the under threadhandling' mechanism; 4 "Fig, 3 is an enlarged side view of the upper portion ot' the turret which carries the under thread-handling' mechanism;

Fig. 4 is a, view of the upper part of said turret taken at right angles to Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a plan View of the work-holding means, said view showing the mechanism for drawing out and cutting' the under thread;

sewing ma- Another object ot' the invention is to pro-Y Fig', (i is a similar view showing the parts in a diti'erent position;

Fig. 7 is a sectional view on the line 7 7, Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a view of the slide 29 and the pulling-oit' finger 27. l

I will first refer briefly to the principal parts of the buttonhole sewing' machine herein illustrated and will then describe in detail my improvements.

The luttonhole sewing machine shown in the drawings is of a. familiar type. which comprises work-holding means, stitch-'formingl mechanism includingan upper threadhandling mechanism and an under threadhandling mechanism, and means to move the' work-holding' means and stitch-forining mechanism relative to each other to effect thestitchingr operation around the edge ot the f-buttonhole, said means operating to give the stich-'orm'ing mechanism and work-holding means a 'further movement at the end'` oi the stitching operation lo carry the work from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position. The ,work-holding meansv is ot' the usual type comprising a clamp plate l on which the work is supported and clamping members 2 which are pivotally mounted on and movable toward and from the clamp plate l thereby to clamp the work in position or to release it. The

'work is shown at 3 in Figs. 1 and`7, F ig.

1 showing' the work clamped and Fig. 7 showing it unclamped. This clamp plate l, with the clamping' members 2 thereon, is removably mounted on the bed portion i of the frame 5 which supports the operative parts ot' the machine. The upper threadhandling mechanism is of the usual type comprising a needle (3 carried by a needle bar 7 which reciprocates in the head 8 of the frame. The 4under thread-handling mechanism is carried 'by a turret 9 which is rotatably mounted in bearings 10 and 11 vcarried by the depending portion l2 of the frame.y This .under thread-handling mechanism may have any known construction, but is herein illustrated as of the type shown in lnited States Patent No. 1,188,942, June 2T. 1916, whiclrincludes a throat l5, an oscillatory needle for the `under thread (which is not illustrated herein), a loope'r 13 tor taking' the loops ot' upper thread as they are inserted through the work by the eoV I needle 6, and a reciprocating actuating spindle 14 which is situated axially of the turret and by which the needle and looper of the 'under thread-handling mechanism are actuated and which in turn is given its reciprocations from an actuating lever 140. I have not attempted herein tol illustrate all the constructional details of the under thread-handling mechanism as to do so would tend vto confuse the drawing and make the showing of the present invention somewhatobscure. Reference may be had, however, torthe above-mentioned patent for furtherillustration of the under thread mechanism. Both the upper and the under thread-handling nlechanism are mounted for rotation so as t'cffectY the stitching around the ends of a buttonhole, and such rotation thereof is derived from a rock-shaft 16 which carries two segmental gears 17 and 18 that mesh with gears 19 and 20 carried by the upper thread-handling mechanism and under thread-handling mechanism, respectively. The rock-shaft, 16 is oscillated from 25 the feed cam 21 inusual manner.

The wor'lr-holding means, comprising the clamp lage 1 and Work clamps 2, and ythe stitchorming mechanismhave a movement relative to each other to provide for carrying the stitching along the edges of the buttonhole and also to provide for carrying the Work from stitching to buttonhole-cutting osition as usual in sewing machines of thls type. In the machine shown this relative movement is provided for by so mounting the work-ho ding ,means that it can move back and forth on the bed plate 4. For this purpose the clamp plate 1 of the work-holding means is slidably mounted in ways 22 on the bed plate 4, and it derives its reciprocating movement fromthe feed cam 21. Said cam is provided withsa cam groove in which operates a projection 23'dependin'g from a. slid24 that is mounted for reciprocatory movement `on the bed 4, said slide being, detachably connected to the clamp plate 1 by means of a latch 25. The detachable connection between the clamp vplate 1 andthe latch 25r permits the clamp plate with the- Workl clamps thereon to be withl,drawn or removed from the front of the bed plate. L

26 is-the usual cutter by which the buttonhole is cut. The parts thus far described yare or may be all,as usual in buttonhole sewing machines of this type and hence it will not be necessary to further describe them. I will, however, briefly refer to the sequence of operations in the sewing'of the buttonhole.

When the machine is at rest the work clamps 2 are elevated, as shown in Fig. 7. r The work 3 lis then placed beneath the -clamps andwhen the machine is s et inop- Q erationfthe Clamps 2 are first carried down holding means a reverse feeding movement nagaan into clamping position, as shown in Fig. 1, thus clamping the work to the clamp plate, and the cutter26 is then operated to cut the buttonhole. After the buttonholeA is cut, the work-holding means is moved toward the right, Fig. 1, by the feed cam 21, thus to carry the work from.buttonhole-cutting to stitching position, and when the work has been brought into stitching position, the stitching mechanism is set in operation. The feed cam then continues moving-the work-holding means so as to give the work a feeding movement to effect the formation of the edge stitches along one side of the buttonhole, and when the end of the buttonhole has been reached, the rock-shaft 16 is turned to cause the stitch-forming mechanism toswing around the end ofthe buttonhole. The feed cam then gives the workto provide for forming the Astitches; on the other side of the buttonhole, and when the stitching has been completed, the stitchforming mechanism is brought to rest. The feed cam, however, continues its movement and operates to bring the Work-holding means from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position, after which the machine is brought to restwi'th the parts in the position shown in Fig. 1. .p 95` My present improvement relates to means for acting on the under thread` at the end of the stitching operation on a buttonhole and while the work is being carried from stitching to buttonhole-cutting osition for the purpose of drawing out fliom the thread supply a sufficient length of under thread to insure the proper formation of the initial stitch on the next succeeding buttonhole, and then to cut .the under thread close to the work. .The device herein illustrated for this purpose comprises a pull-'off member 27 which is situated to act on the under thread between the work 3 andthe clamp plate 1. This pull-off member 27 is in the form of a 110 finger which extends from a slide 29 mounted on a clamp plate 1 and which has a tlirezul-receiving notch 28 in the end. thereof. The slide 29 is mounted to slide in ways 30 formed in theeplate 1, and the finger 27 115y lies closely adjacent to the plate 1 arid beneath the work 3. Means are provided for r.

moving the plate 29 toward the left, Fig.

5, at the end of the stitching operation thereby to cause the notch 2S in the linger to en- 120 gage the under thread beneath the Work thereby to draw out from the source of supply a suitable length of under-thread. 'The means by which this movement is given to the slide 29 is rendered operative by the 125 moven'ient of the clamp plate 1 by which the Work is carried from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position at the end of the stitching operation. VI he clamp plate 1 carries a pivotal stud 31 on, which is pivotally 180' mounted a lever 32 that is connected at one end toa link 33 which in turn is piioted at 34' to the slide 29. The end 35 ot' the lever 32 is adapted to have engagement with an abutment shoulder 36 fixed to the bed plate 4, said shoulder 36 thus being stationary. The end 35 of the .lever 32l has connected thereto one end of a pulling spring- 32', the other end-of said spring being fastened to an arm 38 that is secure'd to the clamp plate l. During the stitching operation yon the buttoniiole, ythe slide 29 Twill be in the position shown in Fig. 5, in which position the vnotched finger 27 is situated considerably in advance of the stitching point, and the lever 32 will be. so situated that the end 35 thereof is in line with the fixed abutn'ientI 36 so that the movement of the clamp plate 5 to that shown in Figs. 6 and 7 thereby to carry the work from stitchingr to buttonholecutting position. During this movement of the clamp 'plate the end 35 of the lever' is resting;F against the fixed abutment 36, and as the stud 31 is fixed to the clamp plate, the central portion of the lever 32 will be moved forwardly with the clamp plate. Since the end 35 of the 'lever engages the fixed abutment this will cause the opposite 35 ond of the lever which is pivoted to the link i to move forwardly at a much greater speed than that at which the clamp plate l moves. As a result. the'slide 29 is moved -iorwardly on the clamp plate 1, such for- 40 ward movement carryingl the finger 27 forwardly beneath the work so as to bring the notch thereof into engagement with the under thread. The movement of the slide is sutlicient to cause the notched finger to draw of from the throat 15 a length of under Vthread. shown at 39 in Fig, '7. 2 a're released and elevated by the usual means just before the clamp plate movesfto carry the work from stitching to louttonhole"V cuttingposition so that they do not interfere with this pulling-off movement of the finger 27.

" The finger 27 has associated therewith means for cutting the under thread after the desired length 39 has beenldrawn ott therefrom and the length 3,9,which is thus drawn oit4 is sufficient so f thaty wheny the stitching begins on the next succeedingr buttonhole theextra length 39 will provide for*v or wide groove 52 formed in the cam plate the proper formation of the initial stitch on the buttonhole without danger ythat the en d of the thread will be drawn through vthe goods, By thus properly 'agirrgthe amount of thread 39 which is drawii'rom the throat 15 at the completion ot the stitching on each meente toward the left, Fig. 5, will bring said end4 T he clamps throat 15.

louttonhole7- it is possible to insure that the initial stitch of each buttonhole will be properly formed without the necessity ofI providing means for .holding the under thread to prevent it from being pulled through the goods.

i The thread-cutting mechanism herein illust-rated is in the form ot' shears compris` ing two shearing blades 40 and 41 which areI pivotally mounted on the stud 42 carried by the slide 29. The upper shearing blade 41 has a notch 43 formed in the end thereotl and the lower shearing blade 4() is provided with a shearing edge Hu The shearing blades are normally in the relative position shown in Fig. 5, thus providing a notch in alinement with the notch 28 into which the under thread is received. Means are provided for swinging the shearing blades relative to each other on the stud 42 during the final forward movement of the slide 29, thereby causingv them to sever the under thread just when the desired length 39 thereof has been pulled from the throat 15. To accomplish thisl I have provided each ot the shearing blades with dependingr pins, the pin depending from the upper shearing blade il being indicated at 45 and that depending from the lower shearing blade 40 being indicated at 46. These pins oJera'te in slots 47 and -18 formed in a cam plate 49 which is secured to the bed plate 4. The slotsor grooves 47, 48 are straight and -parallel for the greater portion of their length and at their inner ends they diverge, as shown at 50. So long 100 as the pins 45 and 46 are travelime in the straight portionsoi` the grooves, the shearing blades will beheld in therelative position shown in Fig. 5, but when the pins enter the diver-ging portions 50 of the 105 grooves, then the blades willube turned relative to each other, thus cuttingl the thread beneath the work. This cutting operation of the thread thus takes place during the final movement of the clamp plate 1. It 110 will be observed `that the under thread is cut close to the work and that the severing of the thread does not occur until after the required length 39 has been drawn from the As soon as the under thread has thus been severed and before the machine comes finally to rest, the slide 29 is returned to the initial position shown in Fig. 5, thus withdrawing the pulling-ott ing'er 27 and the 120 shears from beneath the work. To aecomplish this I have provided the link 33 with a depending pin 51 which 'operatesin a space* 49. 2This1groove 52 is provided at one end. 125

, with an inclined cam 'surface and at the be brought into engagement with the abutlying against the outer side 55 of the groove 52. As the clamp plate-1 moves forwardly to carry the work -from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position the pin 51 will be brought into engagement with the cam face 53, and as the pin rides down this cam face, the link 33 will be swung about its pivot 34, thereby moving the lever 32 longitudinally, said lever being provided with the slot 56 through which the pivotal stud 31 extends to permit ofsuch movement, and the end 35 of the lever will thus be forced oli' from the abutment 36, as seen in full lines Fig. 6. As soonas this occurs, the spring 37l will contract, thus swinging the lever 32 into the dotted line position, Fig. 6, such movement operating to give the slide'29 a retracting or backward movement and withdrawing the finger` and shears from the thread. The cam surface 53 is so designed that this disengagement of the lever from the abutment face 36 occurs just after the thread has been severed. Uien the machine is set in operation again and the clam-p plate 1 1s moved toward the right, the end 35 lof the lever .is carried beyond the abutment 36 and the pin I51 brought against the cam surface 54:

*thereby moving the lever 32 longitudinally Vy.and placing the end 35 thereof in line' with the abutment 36 -so that on the next forward movementpf theI clamp plate said end will ment, asshown in Fig. 5.

The turret 9 is provided with the usual di Ikl tension device 57 through which the under thread u is led before it is delivered to the under needle. In.` order to permit the eXtra length 39 of under thread to freely drawn off without danger of breaking the thread, it `is desirable thatthe tension on the under thread should be released during the` drawing-oil' movement. i I have, therefore, provided herein `means for releasing the, friction of the tension device 57 on the under thread kwhile said funder thread is being acted upoii'fbyl the pulling-ofi` finger 27. For this purpose I have provided a finger 58 havi ing a wedge-shaped end 59 which is adapted to be forced between the tension disks 57 at tlie desired time thereby to separate them. This finger 58 isshown as secured toa lever `60 which yfis pivoted to the turret at 61.` said lever being suitably guided in atguide member y62. Means are provided for raising the lever 60 about its pivot 61 at the time that {the pulling-off finger 27 is acting on, the uiider thread. The device I have herein provided yfior this purpose comprises an elhow-leverf63 which vis pivoted at (it t0 the portionA 12, of the frame and one arm of which hasj/'a depending extension 65 pro-- ktided with) a laterally-extending flange 66. The other arm-iofthelever 63 has a link 67 pivotallyI `colmected thereto which 'link extends through-a 68 secured to the slide 211.

The link 67 is provided with an i adjustable collar 69 and. a' springv 70Jencircles the link 67 and is confinedl between the collar .and the portion of the `bracket through which the link 67 extends. The

slide 24 has a movement t0 the left Fig. 1,

.turn the elbow-lever 63 about its pivot thereby raising the flange 66. chines of this type, the turret 9 is given a rotative movement during and after lthe stitching operation, and tne parts .are soV designed that when the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest at the end of 'a buttonhole and the clamp plate 1 is being moved to carry the work from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position, the turret 9 will be positioned so that the outer end of' the lever 60 will be directly above the` flange 66. Consequently, when the lever 63 is operated to raise the flange 66,A such flange In sewing' ma- 1 will engage the end of the lever 60 and'force- -the wedge 59 between the tension disks 57 and separate the latter, thereby to| release the tension on the under thread. This o eray tion occurs just at the time that'the pul ingoff finger l2'( is acting on the under thread to draw olf the length .39, as above described.

In many sewing machines of the type herein shown, it is customary to employ means for delivering a stay-cord tQthe edge of the buttonhole as the stitches are formed A so that the edge stitches ofthe buttonhole are concatenated about the stay-cord. AThe machine herein shown is of this type and ios the thread-cutting means above described finger 27 when the latter is used to draw i y' the' length of under thread. In the voperation` of stitching the buttonhole, however, the

stay-cord is merely laid along the edge ofthe buttonhole, and when the Istitching operation begins on any buttonhole," it is desirable to have only a sufficient length of the staycord extending from the throat to overlie Y n the portion of the buttonhole edge where the first stitches are being formed. I have', therefore, provided means herein whereby after the stay-cord has been drawn out 'from the throat and .ent the surplus length of the Astay-cord whic-h projects beyond the@ fifi throat will bedrawn back so as to leavev only k y meeste proper projectingl length to insure the proper formation of the buttonhole Without leavingr a projeetinr end of the staycord. To accomplish this I employ an arm 74 which is pivotally mounted on thel turret at 73 and` provided with any aperture 75 through which the stay-cord passes before it is led to the throat., The arm 74 is backed by 'a light spring 76 which urges it toward the full line position Fig. 4. During the sewingoperation the tension on the stay-cord is sufficient to compress the spring 76 and to hold the arm inthe dotted line position Fig. K lYhen at the end of the stitching operativen the slide 29 and the pullii'ig-oft finger 2i' areunoved forwardly into the posi tion shown iu Figi?, the notch 28 of said finger engages both the under thread u and the stay-cord il between the throat l5 and the work and operates to draw ofi1 a suitable length. of both the under thread and staycoi'thas above described. The stay-cord as well as thennder thread is thus received in the notch formed lby the cuttingV blades of the shears, and when the shears are actuated at the end `of the forward movement or1 the slide 29, they operate to cut the stay-cord as well as the under thread. s soonv as the stay-cord is cut, then the resiliency of the spring 7 6 moves to the full line position Fig'. sl, such moye-l the arm il from the dotted ment ot' the arm withdrawing' from the` 4throat 15 a certain amount ofthe extra' length of the stay-cord which has been pulled off by the finger 27. Thegniovement of the arm Tl due to 'the spring 7G is limited by a stop--iiieiiiberlll which is situated to ltrip the stay-cord between it and the arm. This stop member/? thus acts not only to limit'tlie swinging; inc-Vement of the arm, but 'also to prevent the stay-cord 'from being ulled ha s-kwardly,

lWhen .the sewing niachine ha, been brought to rest, therefore, a certain length 39 of the under thread and a lesser length of the stay-'mrd will be ir'ound projecting' Jfrom the throat l5. lWhen the initial stitch on any buttonhole is iormed'the under lthread is held in the fabric by its friction with the goods, and although there is. of course, a ytendency when the first stitch is set to pull. the end of the .under thread through the "goods, yet the length 3Q togetherwith the friction between the thread and the goods is sutlicient to prevent this trom occurring so that the first stitch is properly uiade.v The shy-cord merely laid against the edge ot t e buttonhfde during;F the stitching? operation and the stitches are formed over the cord. thus binding it in place. and the length o l the stay-cord which is lett proie-citing from 'die throat by the movement. orf the arm 7i from the dotted to the full line position is just suicientto insure. the proper formation et the buttonhole 'buttonliole is finished.

Without leaving any'projccting end of staycord which requires to be trimmed utter the ll'ith my machine, therefore, both the under thread and staycord are cut in such a way that no projectingr ends are left `and no trimming of the butt-onhole is necessary.

In sewing machines ot' this type th'e stitchforming mechanism .is usually brought to rest with the upper needle (i raised and with the upper thread extending from the yneedle down through the work and around the looper and hack to the work again.'v This loop of upper thread 1will be engaged inthe slot 28 with the under thread and stay-cord and will be severed by the shears and thus all threads on the under side ot' the work are sheared closely to the work when the button-hole is completed. c

It is customary to provide sewing machines of this type Witha device for cutting 'the upper thread above the work. but I have not herein illustrated. suchv a device as it forms no part of the present invention and to do so would only tend to confuse the drawings. l would state, however, that where such a thread cutter is used for cutting the upper thread between the needle and the work, it.will preferably be constructed to be operated'just before the pulling-oii1 linger is moved forwardly to draw oil' the under thread, so that when the pull. ing-off lingerdoesopcrate the work will not be tied down to the clamp plate by the loop of upper thread which extends around the vlouper.

lVhile l have illustrated herein a selected embodiment ot' my inventioml do not wish to be limited to the constructional features shown.

I claim z v l. ln a, sewing machine, the combination with a frame, ot' Work-clampingmeans re- Amoi-ably sustained thereon, stitclnforming mechanism comprising upper 'thread-'handling mechanisn'i and und/:r thrcadlnindung mechanism, and means operative at the end: of'a stitching operation to act on the under thread beneath the Work and draw out irom the soluce ot supply a sufiicient length to insure the proper formation ofthe initial I act on the under thi: d beneath the work 40 .ll tOi-insuievthe proper formation of the iii-st and draw out from the source of supply aV suflicient length to insure the proper fornia- Ation of the initial stitch'of the next succeed ing stitching operation without the necessity of holding said severed end andthen to cut the under thread close to the Work.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism comprising means -tor manipulating both an upper and an under thread, means for. ivin the work-holding means and stitchorming mechanism a relative movement during the stitching operation anda further relative movement at the end of the stitching operationby which the work vand stitch-forming mechanism are nioved relatively from stitchingto buttonliole cutting position, and a device' operative during such further relative movement to act on the under thread beneath thework without gripping said thread thereby .to draw out a `sutlicient length thereof to insure the proper formation of the' first stitch of theneit succeeding buttonhole Without the necessity of holding said under thread.A 4 4. In a sewing machine, the combination Y lwith workdiolding means, of stitch-forming mechanism comprising means for manipulating both an upper and an under vthread,

means for giving the work-holding meansI and stitch-forming mechanism a 'relative movement during the stitching operation anda. further relative movement at the end of the stitching operation by which the Work and stitch-forming mechanismY are moved relatively froml `stitching to biittonholecutting position, and means operative during such further relative movement -to act onA the under thread beneath the work therebyx't'o draw out aksuicient length thereof stitch'. lor,` the next succeeding buttonhole without-the 'necessity of holding said under Athread and lthento cut the thread vclose to the work after said length hasbeen drawn out.

5. .In a. sewingl machine,.the combiiiation witha frame, vof work-lioldingmeans eriiovably mounted thereon and comprising two clamping members between which theV work held, stitchfforming mechanism comprising means for manipulating both an upper and an under thread, and means 'car-v -"ried by the work-holding' means and operative at the end of the stitching operation to act. on the underthread between the clamping members and beneath the workthereby to draw out a length of under thread sii'licient to insure the proper formation of the initial stitch of the next stitchinguopeilation.

,In' a sewing machine, the combination with a frame, ofivorlgholding n ieansremovably niountedthereon and comprising two vclamping members between .which the work isheld, st1tch-forming mechanism comprissaine to Cut the .mounted thereon, under ...thread-,handling mechanism, a rotary turret on which said mechanism is sustained, a tension for the under thread mounted on said turret, means carried by the removable Work-holding means and operative at the end of a stitching operation to act on the under thread beneath the work and draw through said 'tension device a length'of thread sufficient to insure the piop'er formation of the initial stitch of the next suceeding operation.

8.,-A sewing machine such as set forth in claim 7, in combination with means vto ref lease the tension for the under thread while said length of iin'der thread is being drawn off.

9. In a buttonliole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-formingmechanism including means for manipulating both an means and stitch-forming,mechanism relative to each other both during the stitching o 'ration1 on a buttonhole and subsequent tiereto,thereby to carry the work from stitching to; buttonhole-ciitting position, a pulling-oil'l member inovahly mounted. on the work-holding means, and means to actuate 'said ,'nemberat the end oi the stitchingoperaiion to pull off a length fof under thread siifiicient to insui'ethe proper forma-A tion of the initial stitch on the next'butto'nhQle. n

combination of `Stitch-forming mechanism for coiicatenating both upper and' under threads. work-'holding means, a slideon the worleholding means having a piilling-o finger. and -means to niove the slide at the end of a stitching operation on the button- 10. In a biittonhole sewing machine, the- 'upper and an'under thrad,.--work-liolding means, means'to move -said Work-holding hole to cause said finger to engage the under i thread and pull oifva lengthth'ei'eof.

- 11. A biittonhole sewing Amachine as set'l '.fpith in claim 1() iii combination with shears carried by the slide and means .to actiiate the work.4 l

12. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the

combinationL with stitch-forming mechanism including means for manipulating both an ii pper and an under thread, of Work-holding fine-ans including a clamp plate,i means to under thread close-ato the move .the clamp plate and stitch-formingl mechanism relative to each other at the end of a stitching operation, a slide carrie-d by said clamp plate and provided with a pulling-off finger, a lever pivoted to said clampplate and connected to the slide, and a fixed abutment against which one end of the lever has enga-gement whereby the -movementof the clamp plate will project the finger into position to thread",

13. A ,biittonhole sewing machine asset forth in claim 12 in combination with meansto release the lever -t'roni s aid abutment when the length of in.der thread has been pulled Iott'. and means to return said slide.

to its normal position.

l1l. ln a biittoiiliole sewing machine-the combination of stitch-framing mechanism including means for manipulating both an 4upper an'd an und/er thread. woi'kgholding means including la clamp plate. means -to more the woi'k-lii'ilding means relative to the stitch-'forming mechanism at the completionot'the stitchingr operation on a biitftonliole. a slideon the work-holding means having a piilliiig--otf finger. imeans to move )the V'slide at tlie'eiidli the "stitching opera-il 'tion to canse. saidnger4 to engage the.

linder thread and draw olf'a length tliereof.

` shears also carried b v 'the slide. and alstationalv cani plate coperatiiig-` with said shears to actiiate them as the slide is moved.'

15. ln a biittoiiliole sewingmachine, the wniibination of stitch-forming mechanism inclii lingiiieaiis for manipulating both an upper and an under thread` work-holding ,means including a clamp plate, means to move tli'e work-holding means relative to the stitchforming mechanism at the completion of the stitching operation cn a buttonhole` a slide on the worli"-holdiiigi means having a pulling-o'fftnger. means lo more the slideat the end of the stitching ooi-ration to causesaid fiiige'r'to engage the under thread -and draw off-a length thereof. a' pair of shearing blades carried by the slide. eaclrhavng a.

.l projection and a ystationary cani plate having cani grooves in which said projections are, 'received whereby moi-'ement of the slide actuates thc shears to cnt the under thread.

16.`In 'a biittonhole sewing machine, the.

combination-of work-holding means. a i'otatable turret, stitch-forming mechanism including under threadmechanism mirried by said turret. a tension i'oithe under thread also carried by the turret, a tension-releasing member mounted on the turret. means to draw ont a length of under thread at the end of the stitching operation,` and means to actiiate said tension-releasing ni/eniben to release the tension while said length is being drawn out.

17. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination of work-holding means, a. ro

by said turret. a'iidnieans caia'ieil b v the -i\'o i'k-lioldnig means to Vengage the under tatable tiirret, stitch-forming meohanisni including under thread mechanism carried bv said turret, a tension' for the under thread also carried by the turret, means to cause a relative movement between thev work-holding means and stitcli-foriiiiiig mechanism at the end of a stitching operation, a'tensionreleasing member mounted on thel turret.

means actuated by said relative move-nient to draw out alei'igth ot' under -thread at 'the` end oi the stitching operation. and other means also actuated b v said relati'vemovement to actuate the tension-rela-sing"nicmber while -the thread is being thiisdrawn ont. l i' 18. Tn a buttonliole sewing nia'chiiie. the 'combination ot' work-holding niearis,^of a rotatable turret provided with a throat and 'having provision for delivering a 'stay-cord from the throat. under thread mechanism car ried b the turret'. and n'ieansoperativevattlie en (l of a stitching operationvto act on the under thread and lthe stay-cord and l.draw

. out from the throatv ditterentlengths thereof.

`19. lira buttonhole sewing machine. the

combination ol work-hohliug nieans..a rotatableftui'i'et provided with a throat and haring provisionsl for delivering a-sta \'cord -therefrom` under-thread mechanism carried thread and tbefsta'v-coril at the end of the stitchingoperation and draw from the throat 20. buttonhollc sewing inachin'e such as set=fortli in claii'n .19.' in combination with means to retract'fipart of the length of the lirifiihichis 'thus drawn from the 'A sewing machine such as set forth in claims 1S) -and :ltln which the means to retract part of the stay-cord israrriedl b v the. turret., i I

:22. A buttonhole sewing machine. -such as specified in claim lflcin combination withl -a sprliig-pressed.tinger-pivoted to the turret and having av stavfcordn'eceivino'"aperture and a comparativelylight spring acting on said arm and tending to urgeit away fi'oiir the throat. Said spring having a less resistance than the tension.

` than the tension,

with' said arm to prevent backward moveto draw a'v vlength 24. In a buttonhole sewingl machine, the combination of work-holding means, a r0.-

l 4tatable turret provided with a throat and having provision for delivering a stay-cord therefrom, under thread mechanism carried by the turret, means operative at the end of a stitchingA operation on a buttonhole to act on the under thread and stay-cord thereby of each from the throat, a 'tension device for the stay-cord, an arm pivoted t0 the turret and having a (guiding aperture through which the stay-cor passes between the tension device and the throat, a comparatively-light spring acting on said arm and tendin to urge it away from the throat, said spring havlng a less resistance and means coperating ment of the stay-cord.'

`for concatenating both threads,

devices to engage and cut the thread between the workfand the work-holding means.

with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitc -forming mechanism and work-holding means thereby to feed the work, a slide on the work-holding means,threadcutting shears carriedby the slide, means operative automatically to move the slide at the dnd of a stitching operation in the direction of feed thereby to ca the shears' iintq position to cut the under t ead beneath the work, and means to actuate the shears.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, .of Iworkiholding means, means to produceva relative l movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means thereby to feed'the wor a' slide on -the work-holding means, thliead-cutting shears carried by the slide, means pperative automatically to move the slideat the end of a stitching, operation inthe direction of the feeding movement to carry the ,shears into position to cut the under thread' beneath the ,work, and means to operate the` shears bythe movemgnt ofthe slide. A A A 28. In a sewing machine; Ethe'combination with stitch-forming mec m, of -workholding means means ,toi' give the workholding means'a feeding movement, aislide lon the work-holding means, 'thread-cutting shears carried bv the slide,antomatic means to move the slide at theend of a stitching.

.eopemaon in the damien-ofthe feeding" h d undermovably the end of a stitchmovement thereby to carrythc shears into position to cut the under thread beneath the work, and a stationary cam platecoperatingwithsaid shears'to actuate them as the slide is moved.. l -ff'- Inga sewing-machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of' work- "holding means,'a slide on the work-holding means*having'apulling-o finger, means to move the slide at thev end of a stitching operation to -cause the finger to engage the under thread-and draw oil a length thereof, shears'also carried by said slide, and a sta-vv tionary cam' plate coperating with said shears to actuate them as `the slide is moved.

0. In a sewing machine, the-combination with work-holding means, of under-thread- Vhandling' mechanlsm, a 'rotary 'turret on which said mechanism is sustained, a ten- `sio'n-forthe imder-thread mounted on said turret, means operativeat the 4end of a lstitching' operation to act on the "underthread beneath the work and draw throuh said tension device a length of -thread su cient to'insure theproper formation of the initial stitch of thenext succeeding sewing operation, and means te -release the tension 'for the under-thread while saidlength of under thread is being drawn oli.

31. In a but nhole sewing machine, the- 26. Ina sewmgmachine, the combination roduce a.

thread? toinsure the proper ormation` of the initial stitch of the'. next succeeding stitching operation.

32. I combination with a frame, of work-holding d. means removably sustained thereon, stitch- Y forming mechanism, means to reduceI a relative 'movement betweenv the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holdin means durmg the stitchingon a button ole, and a further 'relatiire movement .at the completionoftthe stitching operation,and means carried 'by the.; removable work-`holding`120 further' means and v'operative during such relative movement .to draw out from the source of supply a sufficient4 length of underthiead to insure the proper formation ofitie -initial stitch of the next succeeding'stith ing operation and then' to 'cut the.unden thread close to the work.

, n a 'buttonhole sewing machine, the

33. In a. sewingmachine, the I'combination with a frame having abed plate, -of workoldmg means sustained vthe bed platel iso I and removable from the bed plate with the work-holding means, and means operative auton'iatically at the end of the stitching operation to move the thread-cutting device and work-holding means bodily relative to each other thereby to bring said' device into thread-clutiiig position and then to actuate said device to cnt the thread.

3l. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame having a. bed plate portion provided with open-ended wa. 's, of a clamp plate slidably mounted ii'I sai ways and removable from the bed plate through' the Vopen ends thereof, work clamps for clam ing the work' on the clamp plate, stitc forming mechanism comprising means for concatenating an upper and an vunder thiead, a tl'iread-cutting device carried entirely by the clamp plate. and situated normally ontl of thread-cutting position, and means operative automatically at the end of the stitching operation to produce a'rela-v tive movement between the thread-cutting Y device and the clamp plate thereby to bring said device intotliread-cutting vposition and then to actiiate said device to cnt the thread. 35. In a. biittonhole sewing machine, the

combination with a frame having a. bed

plate portion provided with vopen-ended ways, of a clamp plate slidably mounted in said ways and removable through the open' end thereof, stitchforming mechanism, means to give the stitclnforming mechanism and clamp plate a relative movement during the stitching of a buttonhole aml a further relative movement at the end of a. stitching operation, a tlii'ea'd-cutting device carried by the clamp plate, aml means opei-ative during such further relativil move.- inent to move the tlireml-cutting device bodily oii the clamp plate thereby to bring it into thi'cadcuttin; r position and then to actuate said device to cut the under thread.

36. In a. sewing machine. the combinationp.

3T. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame, o f work-holding means removably sustained theieby and comprising a clamp plate on which the work is sustained, and work clamps for clamping the work thereto, a thread-cutting device movabl carried on the work-holding means, and' means to' move said device bodily relative -to the,work-holding means, thereby to place it in thread cutting position'and 'then to actuate said device to cut the thread.

38. In a sewing' machine, the combination with a. frame, of work-holding' means removably' sustained thereby, means to form a series of short. seams .and to lay astaycord along each seam as it is formed, a sta cord cutting device carried by the vorhholding means, and means o rative at the end of each seam to move 'sai 'device bodily on the work-holding means thereby to bring lit into stay-cord-cutting position and then to actnate said device to,cut the stay-cord;

39.' In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of work-l holding meaiis, a slide on the work-holding means, thread-cutting shears carried by the slide, means operative automatically to move the slide at the end of a stitching .operation to carry the shears into position to cut the under thread beneath the work, and means to actuate the shears. A

40. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of workholdingmeans,- a slide on thework-holding means, threzul-cutting shears carried by the slide, means operative automatically to move the slide at the end of a stitching operation. to carrythe shears into position to cut the under thread beneath the work, and means to operate the shears by the movement of the slide.

In testimony' whereof I have signed my name, to this specification.

CHRISTIAN H. T. HAGELSTEIN

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