US1309378A - Collar - Google Patents

Description

J. M. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 31.1911.

Patentd July 8, 1919.

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J anyone J. M. VAN HEUSEN.

CQLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 31 lntvntvd July 191$).

2 SHEETS SHEET 2 5 nuemtoz UNITED STATES PATENT ornron.

JOHN M. VAN HEUSEN, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

CDLLAR.

Application filed July 31, 1917.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN; M. VAN HEUsEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Sufi'olk, State of Massachusetts, have, invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars; and 1 do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appert ains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to soft folding or turn-down collars which are adapted to be worn without starching and which will nevertheless have a desirable degree of stiffness so that the collars will be sufiicient y self-supporting. c v

The common forms of soft folding collars, made up of individual layers or plies of fabric sewed together, present a flimsy ap',

pearance. In order to overcome this objection it has been proposed to embody stiff.- eners of various kinds betweenthe layers of fabric or to apply detachable stifi'enersto the collars when they are worn.

The present invention has for ohe of its objects the avoidance'of the flimsy appearance characteristic of the common soft folding collars, and the provision of a collar which will be self-supporting without 'addi tional stiifeningmeans, and which will have an acceptable degree of stiffness, without undue rigidity, making the collar simulate in appearance the common laundered and starched collars.

In constructing the collars of the present invention either the neck-band portion of the collar, or the folding or turn-down portion of the collar or both the neck-band and folding portions thereof, are made either of multiply fabric or of appropriate single ply fabric of sufficient body and of an appropriate weave to impart an acceptable degree of stiffness to the collar. So also, either the neck-band portion, orthe folding or turndown portion, of the collar, is provided with an integral divided edge between which the edge of the other portion of the collar is secured. That is to say, either the neck-band portion of the collar is provided with an integral divided edge at or near the upper portion thereof, wherein the edge of the fabric forming the outer folding or turndown portion is secured; or'the outer fold- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 8, 1919.

Serial No. 183,673.

. ing or turn-down portion of the collar is provided with such a divided edge within which the upper side of the neck-band is secured.

The divided edge of the fabric from which the neck-band or folding portion is out may be, iii-certain cases, a straight edge; but it is more advantageous to use a fabric with a curvilinear set; and to so construct the collar that the curvilinear edge of the fabric "contributes to the permanent set of the collar by arranging this curvilinear edge so a the collar.

The fabric which is provided with the integral divided edge may be a single ply fabric of the nature of canvas, but with an appropriate body and fineness Of'WGfiVG so that it will impart an appropriate degree of stiffness to thecollar. In-the preferred enibodiments of the invention, however, the fabric is a multiply fabric, such as a two ply fabric or a three ply fabric, so that the divided edge may be of the thickness of a I single ply, although it will be understood that the multiply, fabric may be provided with an integral double ed e-o-f various types and of different widt s and thicknesses.

The divided double edge of the fabric forms a binding for the edge of the other portion'of the collar which is secured therebetween. That is to say, if the upper edge of the neck-band portion of the collar has the divided double edge, and if the folding portion of the collar is secured therebetween the edge of the folding portion will be secured or confined between the divided edge so that no additional binding or turning in of the edge of the fabric is required. Additional layers or plies of fabric, suchas are commonly present in soft folding collars where the raw edge of the fabric is turned in, are thereby avoided Where the neck-band portion of the collar is of multiply fabric with the upper edge thereof divided so that the folding portion of the collar is secured thereby, this folding portion may likewise be made of multiply fabric or it may be made of other fabrics such as are now commonly used in soft collar construction. The folding portion of the collar may thus be made to match the shirt with which it is to be worn; or fabrics of different materials or colors or designs may be used for the outer folding portion of the collar. So also, where a multiply fabric with an integral divided edge forms the ated or minimized, and so that the outer folding portion of the collar will present a smooth and pleasing appearance.

When the outer folding portion of the collar is of the fabric having the integral divided edge, and where this fabric is of appropriate stiffness, without objectionable rigidity, it will tend to maintain its smooth and pleasing appearance even without addi tional stiffening in the neck-band portion of the collar.

\Vhere both the folding and neck-band portions of the collar are of the multiply or other appropriate fabric, and where these portions are secured together by means of the integral divided edge on one of the collar portions, the collar has an increased degree of stifiness due to the combined stiffening effects of the folding portion of the collar and of the neck-band thereof,

Where the divided edge is of an appropriate curvilinear contour, and arranged so that it conforms with the fold line of the collar, the collar will tend to fold along this line, or can be made so to fold, so that the curvilinear edge of the fabric contributes to the permanent curvilinear set of-the collar. \Vhere both the neck-band portion and the folding portion of the collar are of multiply fabric, both portions may be Woven with a curvilinear edge, so that the divided curvilinear edge of one fabric will secure the curvilinear edge of the other fabric, and so that the form and curvilinear set of the collar will be secured'merely by uniting these complementary curvilinear edges and by cutting out the collar design so that these edges will be united at or near the fold of the collar. It is not necessary, however, that the complementary edge of the fabric which is confined between the divided edge should illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in

which- Figure 1 shows one form of completed v collar embodying the invention.

Fig. 2 is a sectional view of the collar of Fig. 1' with parts somewhat exaggerated to illustrate the construction.

Fig. 3 is a section of the edge of the fabric which forms the neck-band of the collar of Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 4 shows one of the ends of'the collar of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 shows another construction of collar embodying the invention.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view of the collar of Fig. 5, v

Fig. 7 is an enlarged sectional view of the edge of the fabric which forms the outer folding or turned down portion of the collar of Figs. 5 and 6.

Fig. 8 is a sectional view, similar to that of Figs. 2 and 6, illustrating a further anodified construction.

Fig, 9 is a section through the fold of the collar of Fig. 8, with the collar unfolded.

Fig. 10 is a. view similarto that of F ig. 9 showing a still further modified construction embodying the invention.

Fig. 11 shows part of a strip of fabric from which certain parts of the collars may be cut, where the'collar fabric is to have a permanent curvilinear set; Fig. 12 shows another strip of fabric likewise adapted for use in the construction of certain forms of collars embodying the invention.

The collar illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 is made up of the neck-band portion 1 and the outer folding or turned-down portion 2. The neck-band 1 is of two ply fabric and is provided with anintegral divided edge 3, as more clearly illustrated in Fig. The folding portion 2 is shown as made up of two separate layers of fabric secured between the divided edge 3 by one or more rows of stitches at, one of which is shown. It will be understood that the width of this divided edge andthe number of rows of stitches can be varied as desired. The lower edge of the folding or turn-down portion of the collar has the two pieces'of fabric turned in to form a hem and stitchedin the usual way to .give the edge of the collar the desired finished appearance. The ends of the folding portion of the collar of Fig. 1 may be similarly finished. The neck-band portion i is provided with any appropriate binding means 6, in case the lower edge of this neck.

band portion requires a binding, and this binding is illustrated in Fig. 4 as extending around the end tab? which has the usual button hole 8 therein. The collar is also provided with the usual button hole 9 atthe back thereof. Y Y

In the construction of Figs. 1 to 4, withthe neck-band portion made of appropriate multiply fabric, this neck-band portion will impart to the collar a suthcient degree of stiffness so that the collar will normally maintain its upright position withoutwrin kling and without additional stiffening ,ineans' Such additional stifiening means illustrated by Fig. 2, the divided upper edge of the neck-band will maintain its-upright shape and the outer folding portion will fold over the upper end of this divided portion so that the divided edge will be hidden from View and so that accordingly the row or rows of stitching 4 will behidden from view.

llhe fabrics which make up the folding or turn-down portion of Fig. 2 may be of various colors-or designs to match the shirt with which the collar is to be worn, or this fabric 'may be of the same color as the neck band So also, the collar may be so con portion. structed that it may be reversed and both sides of the folding porticn utilized. in this case, the two fabrics which make up this folding portion may be of the same or different color or design or construction, thus making it'possible to havethe reverse side of the collar the same as the other side, or differing therefrom. I

It will be understood also that the shape and size of the collar ofiFig. 1 may be varied'so thatdifferentstyles of collars can be constructed in accordance with the demands of the trade or other considerations.

The collarof Figs. 5 and 6 has its outer or turr-down portion 10 of 3 ply fabric pro vided with a divided edge 12 between which the inner or-neck -band portion'll of the collar is secured by one or more rows of stitching lB. In this case, the divided edge is folded-over and secured to the upper edge of the neck-band 11 so that it is on the inside.

of the collar and the stitching hidden from view. The neck-band '11 of the collar shown as made up of two separate layers of fabric the upper edges of which are secured between the divided edge 12 of the multiply fabric, and the loweredges of which are turned and stitched at 14. The lower edge of the outer folding portion 10 may be bound inany appropriate manner but as illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6 is turned,: and

with a narrow tape 16 applied thereto and.

stitched at 17 and 18 so that the turned edge 15 will be tightly clamped and bound, and so that the collar will resent a finished and pleasing appearance. hus, as appears from Fig. 5, the outer folding portion 10 of the collar has a smooth and finished appearance with only the two rows of stitching 17 and 18 showing at the edge thereof.

' The fabric of the collar illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6 is further illustrated in, Fig. 7, from which it will be seen that the divided portion 12 is made of two single plies'of the three ply fabric, so that, when the upper edge of the neck-band is secured therebetween, the neck-band will not have an objectionable thickness at this point.

In the modified construction of Fig. 8, both the neck-band 19 and the outer turned down portion 20 are of multiply fabric, the

neck band 19-bein'g shown as, of twoply fabric, and the folding portion 20 of three ply fabric, and both portions being pro vided with an appropriate binding 21. The

outer folding portion 20 is provided with a'dividededge 22 between which the upper edge of the neck-band 19 is secured by two rows of stitching 23.

The folding portion. of Fig. Sis further illustrated in Fig. 9, where the central por- 7 tion of the collar is illustrated in its unfolded position, and with some ex.qgera tion to better showthe construction. In this case, the neck-band 19 does not extend to the bottom of the space between the divided edge, but terminates short thereof so that the space 24 is left between the edge of the neck-band 19 and the bottom of the divided edge. This space 24 leaves the 'divided edge with the two portions thereof separated to' form a line of increased fieXhbility. The result of this arrangement is that this line of increasedfiexibility at 24, I

forms a natural fold line for the collar, at which the collar tends to fold. f

The arrangement of Fig. 10 is similar to that of Fig. 9 in that the multiply fabric 20 is provided with a divided edge 22, but the multiply fabric 19 is provided with 'an edge 25 which is thinner than the main body 'of the fabric 19. The thickness of this edge 25 may be such that,'together with the thickness of the divided edge 22, the collar will not be of increased thickness at this point. So also, the thin edge 25, if it extends a short distance beyond the divided edge 2%, will form a natural portion of increased flexibility so that it may be utilized to mark the fold line of the collar.

In order that the divided upper edge, or the single thin edge of Fig. 10, may conform with the fold line of the collar and determine this fold line, the edge of the fabric from which the corresponding portions of the collar are out should be of appropriate contour. If the fabric is woven with a curvilinear edge, this will sufiice to enable the edge of the fabric to determine the fold line of the collar. Appropriate fabrics are illustrated conventionally at 26 and 27 in Figs. 1-1 and 12, these fabrics being provided respectively with divided edges 28 and 29. The fabric of Fig. 11 has its divided edge 28 woven convex, so that it may be utilized in forming the neck-band portion of the collar with the divided edge at the upper portion of the neck-band- The divided edge 29 of Fig. 12 is concave and such as is appropriate for use in making the outer fold portion of the collar, so that the divided edge may form the natural fold line of increased flexibility as in the construction of Figs. 8 and 9..

The fabrics such as those of Figs. 11

and 12 may be woven in an appropriate loom'with the longitudinal or warp threads of one side of the fabrics fed slightly faster than those of the other, with the result that the fabric will be woven longer on one side than on the other and have a curvilinear contour. j

Where the divided edge of the collar is thus woven with a curvilinear contour, so that it will conform with the contour of the fold of the collar, and determine the fold line, it will contribute to the curvilinear set of the collar, in the manner above described.

'Where the whole collar is made of multiply fabric, a single binding tape may be applied to the whole collar at a single operation as will be readily understood. With arrangements such as those illustrated, particularly in Figs. 8, 9 and 10, the collar may be thinner at its fold line than elsewhere so that the binding tape will not give to the collar an objectionable thickness at the line of fold.

It will be understood that the multiply fabric, as well as individual layers of single fabric, such as those of Fig. 1, may be made of different kinds of material, in order that a fineror more expensive material such as silk'mayform the-outer ply and aless expensive material the other plies. be understood also that the multiply fabric may be of different colors or designs to It will match the shirts with which it is to be worn, or so that, where the collar is reversible, it -may present the same or different appearance on the different sides.

Having thus described my invention what I claim'is:

l. A soft folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, one of said portions having a divided edge woven integral therewith between which the edge of the other portion is secured.

2. A soft folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, one of said portions being of multiply interwoven fabric and having two of the plies extended to form an integral divided edge between which the edge of the other portion is se cured.

3. A soft folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, one of said portions having a divided edge woven integral therewith, of curvilinear contour corresponding to the fold line of the collar, between which the edge of the other portion is secured.

' 4. A soft folding or turn-down collar .made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, the outer folding portion having a divided upper edge woven integral therewith and extending'beyond the fold line of the collar and having the upper edge of the neck band secured therebetween.

6. A soft folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, the outer folding portion being of multiply interwoven fabric and having two of the plies extended to form an integral divided edger extending beyond the fold line of the collar and securing'the upper edge of the neck band portion therebetween.

7. A soft folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, the outer folding portion of said collar having a divided edge woven integral therewith forming the fold line of the collar and extending therebeyond'and confining the upper edge of the neckband therebetween, said divided edge having a curvilinear contour corresponding to the fold line of the collar, and the edge of the neck band portion being spaced away from the bottom of the divided edge so that the fold line will have an increased flexibility.

8. A soft folding or turn-down collar made up-of a neck band portion and a'folding or turn-down portion, thevouter folding portion of said collar being of multiply interwoven fabric and having woven integral therewith a divided edge which forms the fold-line of the collar extends therebeyond and confines the upper edge of the neck band therebetween, said divided edge having a curvilinear contour corresponding to the foldline of the collar, and the edge of the neck band portion being spaced away from the bottom of the divided edge so that the fold line will have an increased flexibility.

9. A soft folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, one of said portions having a divided edge woven integral therewith between which the edge of the other portion is secured, and both of said portions having curvilinear edges corresponding to the fold line of the collar, whereby the collar is given a permanent curvilinear set on folding.

10. A soft folding or turn-down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn-down portion, one of said portions having a divided edge woven integral therewith, and the other portion being of multiply fabric and having an edge of decreased thickness secured between said divided edge;

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature JQHN M. VAN HEUSEN.

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