US1396124A - Ments - Google Patents

Description

A u'NrrED STAT-Es 1 PATENT oFFiCE; y

JOHN A. KELLY, or BmuNrnnn, xassacnus'm'rs, ASSIGNOB, BY' )rE-sm; ASSIGN- Y MENTS, 'ro UNITED suon xacnINmY CORPORATION, or ra'rnns'on, Nnw

JERSEY, A conrolu'rIoN or NEW JERSEY.

. Process or iuxnve snons.

To all linkom 'it may concern Be it known that I, JOHN A. KELLY, a

'citizen-of the .United States, residing atl Braintree, county of-Norfolk, and State of Massachusetts,` have invented a certaln new vand luseful Process of Making Shoes', of

which the following is a description.

The present invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of shoes and by Way of illustration the invention is herein shown and described in its application to the manufacture of shoes of the type known as McKay shoes.

yIn the manufacture of McKay shoes as now practised, an insole and a shoe upper are first assembled upon an iron bottomed last, 'then the upper is lasted over on to the insole and fastened in lasted position to the insole' by tacks which are clenched upon the iron bottom of the last, these tacks remaining in the shoe as permanent fastenings. Subsequently an outsole is 'applied to the shoe bottom, the last removed and the outsole, the upper and the insole connected together by through-and-t-hrough stitches. One of the chief objections to-a shoe made in this manner-is thatl` the lasting tacks project into the-interior of the shoe so that they contact rvith the foot and in many cases where the tacks are not properly clenched the points of these tacks result in serious injury and great discomfort to the wearer.

An object of the present invention' is to provide an improved process of manufacturing shoes and especially shoes of the McKay sewed type whereby the fastenings employed in lasting theshoe do not project through the insole to the interior of the shoe so as to cause injurv and discomfort to the wearer.

A further object is to attain economy in the production of the shoe by utilizing a no vel form of insole the marginal portion of whlch is materially strengthened as compared with the insoles ordinarily used in making Mc- Kay sewed shoes.

To this end the invention contemplates the use of a novel form of insole having independent means extending along its upper mar to reinforce the marginalI portion of\ the msole and to receive the fastenings for securing the upper in lasted position to the insole, this means being subsequently covered by the outsole. Thus the lasting fastemngs are dlspo'sed between the' body of the insole Spccineation of Letters Xatent.

1an. serial mammie.

and the outsolejof the shoe and. therefore cannot contact with the foot.,

Patented Nov. s, 1921. A

As herein illustrated, the insole used in i the practice of the method of this invention 1s provided with almarginal flap composed of a material different from that of theinsole, it being preferred to use-a marginal f Aliapcomposed of a strip of canvas in connectxon with a leather insole. The marginal canvas flap which is long enou lh to extend around the insole is placed agalnst one lface of the insole next to the margins thereof, and 1t 1s attacbced to said insole so as to leave a substantially free edge atthe inner margin of the iap. Said canvas flap' is attached to the insole in any desired way, e. g. it'is stitched thereto, the seams extending either across the insole at regular parallel intervals or around the marginal portions of the insole. I

The insole and the Imarginal canvas Hap having been prepared, the' procedure is as 1 follows The insole is imposed upon a last,

preferably a Wooden bottom last, with the canvas flap outermost, said insole being then tacked tothe last. The upper is now lasted over on to the insole in the usual way, but

the lasting tacks are not drivenin up to che heads thereof, as heretofore. The upper having been lasted, I next proceed to fasten the upper and the insole together by stapling said upper to the marginal canvas flap, the stapling operation being continued around the toe, heel and side portions of the upper. The lasting tacks are removed, the sole is sewed, and the shoe finished in the usual way, the product being a tacklessMcKay -sewed shoe the upper of which is stapled to the marginal flap of the insole. 1n this connection it is proper tofexplain that; in

the stapling operation, the nozzle of the stapling machine preferably enters between the face of the insole andthe free edge por.i tion of the attached fabric ap. the staple driver coperating with the anvil in pressing the staples through lthe upper and the fabric flap of the insole.

In another of?. its laspects the invention contemplates an ,improved method of fakv tening the lasted toek portion lof the shoe upper on to the insole without necessitating the use of the large number of tacks heretofore employed in holding the toe portion of the u PPer il! lasted position. As herein `wood bottom last instead of the last used in making similar shoes, z'. e. an iron faced ast.

The upper E is drawn over the last and is lasted in the usual way, the marginal portions e of the upper'being drawn around the insole and temporarily tacked.

The next step in the procedure consists in attaching said marginal portions e of the upper to the flap B of the insole, a suitable machine such as a stapling machine being employed for this purpose. 'Ihe nozzle of the stapling machine passes between the face of the insole and the marginal flap, and the staples e2 are passed through the marginal flap and the marginal portions e of the upper, so that the ends of the staples are clenched against the outer face of said upper margin e, as clearly shown in Figs. 4, 5, 6 and 'T of the drawings.

In the lasting operation the toe portion e of the upper is wiped in by the wiping machine, this operation being carried out after the upper shall have been lasted and stapled as heretofore described. The operation of the wiping machine upon the toe port-ion of the upper produces the plaited or folded portion e illustrated in Figs. et and 5, and before removing the shoe from the wiping machine. a binder F is applied to said wiped in toe portion. The binder consists of a length of wire, cord. or other flexible ele-- ment, the end portionsof which are attached to lasting tacks which are driven through the upper into the last. and positioned at the respective sides of the upper rearwardlyv of the wiped in toe portion e. It will be understood that after the toe portion shall have been wiped in. a lasting tack is driven into the upper and last on one side thereof. the binder is attached at one end to said tack, the binder is then drawn around and stretched so as to have firm Contact with the wiped in portion of the upper, and the other lasting tack is driven into the upper and last at the opposite side from the first named tack, the otherwise free end of the wire or binder being then attached to the second named tack. Of course, it is apparent that the two lasting tacks may be driven into position at the respective sides of the upper before applying the binder. but this is an obvious expedient. After the application of the binder shall have -been completed. as shown in Fig. 4, the binder is attached to the upper by means of staples g, said staples straddling the binder` and being attached to the marginal portion of the upper at the toe thereof. Any suitable number of these staples g may be employed. Subsequent to the attachment of the binder to the upper. the temporary lasting tacks are withdrawn.

The operation of'stapling the marginal portion of the upper to the marginal flap of the insole may be, and preferably is, 00ntinued around the toe portion of the shoe, particularly should the upper be lasted without using the binder F to confine the toe portion in position. In the manufacture of shoes with the binder it may not be necessary to staple the toe portion of the upper to the flap of the insole, and again it is apparent that I may employ the staples at the toe portion of the shoe to attach said toe portion of the upper to the marginal flap and employ, also, the binder F which is stapled to the toe portion of the upper and is in contact with the folded wiped in portion c thereof.

After removing the temporary tacks f, the upper is made smooth in any usual way, the shank piece, the filling piece, and outsole are applied and the shoe is finished according to the Well known mode of procedure for instance by McKay sewing through the outsole, upper, flap, and insole.

The use of an insole with a marginal flap composed of fabric enables me to materially reduce the cost of manufacturing shoes, for the reason that I can use an insole of any suitable character and prepare said insole by the attachment of the fiap thereto. whereby a McKay sewed shoe can be produced by stapling the upper to the fabric flap of the insole. Furthermore, it is apparent that the marginal fabric fiap is attached to the 'insole so as to become a permanent part thereof. said flap being stitched to the insole in a manner to make the flap serve as a marginal binder for said insole, thereby materially increasing the strength of the material composing the insole.

Having thus fully described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In the art of making Shoes, the improvement which consists in positioning a narrow fabric flap against one face of an insole and next to the. margin thereof, sewing the fabric flap to the insole by parallel seams extending crosswise of said insole to provide free portions of the flap at spaced intervals, imposing the insole upon a last, lasting an upper, and stapling the marginal portion of the upper to the said free portions of the fabric flap, and thereafter attaching an outsole to the shoe.

2. In the art of making shoes. the improvement which consists in imposing upon a last an insole having independent means located at spaced intervals along the bottom marginal surface of the insole to receive metallic upper securing fastenings, assembling a shoe upper upon the lastand lasting it over on to the insole and securing the overlasted margin of the upper to the said means by metallic fastenings.

3. In the art of making shoes. the improvement which consistsin iositioning upon a last an insole having a abric strip secured to its bottom marginal surface by fthe strip free of the insole at'spaced intervals, assembling a shoe upper upon a last and lasting it over on to the insole and .stapling the overlasted margin of the upper to the free portions of the marginal strip of theY insole.

4. In the art of makingshoes, the improvement which consists in lasting an upper and wiping in the toe portion thereof, attaching a flexible member by temporary fasteningsaround the wiped-in toe portion of the upper, stapling the flexible member to said wiped in toe portion of the upper, and removing the temporary fastenings from the flexible member and the last.

5. In the art of making shoes, the improvement which consists inv lasting anl upper and wiping in the toe portion thereof, driving two lasting tacks .into the upper and last rearwardly of the toe portion, stretching a flexible member into contact with the wiped in toe portion and attaching said member to the two lasting tacks, stapling said flexible member to the wiped in toe portion by staples extending crosswise of the flexible member, and removing the temporary lasting tacks from the upper and last. l

6. .In the art of making shoes, the improvement which consists in imposing upon a last an insole provided on one face thereof with a marginal flap the ed e portion of which is substantially free, Iasting an upper and wiping in the toe portion thereof, driving temporary lasting tacks into the upper and last rearwardly of the toe portion, attaching a flexible binder to said tacks and stretching said binder into contact with the wiped in toe portion, stapling the marginal portion of the upper to the marginal flap of the insole, stapling the flexible binder to the marginal portion of the upper, and

removing the temporary lasting tacks from the upper and last. y

7. In the art of making shoes, .the improvement which consists in imposing upon a last an insole provided with an attached marginal flap, lasting an upper and wiping in the toe portion thereof, attaching vthe marginal portion of the upper to the marginal flap of the insole, driving temporary lasting tacks into the upper and last rearwardly of the wiped in toe portion, stretching a binder into contact with said wiped in toe portion, stapling said binder to the wiped in toe portion, and removing the temporary lasting tacks.

8. In the art of making shoes, the improvement which 'consists in lasting an upper. and wiping the margin of the toe portion on to the shoe bottom, positioning a flexible binding strip around the wiped-in toe portion of the upper on the shoe bottom and securing the binding strip in position by staples driven crosswise of the said strip and substantially perpendicular thereto.

9. In the art of making shoes, that improvement which consists in positioning upon a last an upper and an insole having a fastening-receiving strip secured at separated points longitudinally of the strip to the margin of the insole, other portions of the strip being free, lasting the margin of the shoe upper inwardly over the shoe bottom and. upon the fastening-receiving strip, stapling the overlasted margin of the upper to free portions of the fastening-receiving strip, and thereafter applying an outsole to the shoe and attaching it by through-andthrough fastenings passing through the margins ofthe outsole, the upper, the fastening-receiving strip and the insole.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name.

' JOHN A. KELLY.

D. S. KENNEDY.

TYPOGH-APHICAL MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED Nov. s, I9I9.

Patented Nov. 8, 1921. '4 SHEETS-SHEET I.

' [IVI/E' T0 k @Il TOR/VE WITNESSES;

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