US1209840A - Garment. - Google Patents

Description

B. H. HOLLEY.

GARMENT.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.2I ,I9l5.

ZLQUQBQQ. Patented Dec. 26,1916.

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GARMENT.

APPLlCATlON FILED DEC. 2| .1915.

Patented Dec. 26, 1916.

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B. H. HOLLEY.

GARMENT.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 2l ,I 915. LQW MQ, Patented Dec. 26,1916.

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BERTHA HERBERT HOLLEY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

GARMENT.

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Application filed December 21, 1915.

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One of the objects of the invention is to provide a garment having soft flowing lines molding themselves to the figure of the body, with the material hanging in such directions as to form the most effective possible folds and drapings.

Another object of the invention is to provide a garment which is formed of the smallest possible number of separate pieces, with these pieces so connected together with respect to the weave of the fabric that the fabric will fall into graceful folds and will be capable of stretching to accommodate movements of the wearer.

A further object of the invention is to provide a garment which can be very simply made and can be put on and off without the use of hooks and eyes, or any other kind of fastening device.

Another object of the invention is to provide a garment which can be formed of a strip of fabric or material from a roll with minimum waste of fabric.

A further object of the invention is to provide a garment which by slight modifications will be suitable for evening dress, af-

ternoon wear or outdoor wear.

A further object of the invention is to provide a garment composed of a number of pieces connected together in which the seams cannot be pulled out of shape and in which the stitches of the seams firmly hold in the fabric.

To the above ends, in accordance with one feature of the invention, I construct a tubular sheath or the like, which is made from a plurality of pieces of material connected together, each piece of material having a substantially predetermined geometrical shape.

In accordance with a further feature of the invention, I provide a garment in which each of the pieces of material of which it is Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 26, 1916.

Serial No. 68,016.

formed, is connected to the other pieces by sewing along what is known as the straight of the goods, that is, parallel with the weave,

and hangs on the bias, that is to say, diagonally of the weave.

In order that the invention may be more particularly understood, same will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a front view showing the improved garment. Fig. 2 is a side view thereof. Fig. 3 shows a roll of material from which the garment is made, with the parts of the garment indicated thereon in dotted lines. Fig. 4 shows the parts cut out and ready to be connected together. Fig. 5 shows a modified form of triangular shaped piece of material. Figs. 6 and '7 show an over-slip, which is preferably worn with the garment and forms sleeves therefor.

In the preferred form of the invention herein illustrated, I show a garment which is made up of four geometrically interrelated pieces.

Referring first to Figs. 1 and 2, it will be seen that the garment comprises two side portions 1 and 2, a front triangular portion 3, and a back triangular portion 4. Referring to Figs. 3 and i, the parts 1 and 2 are quadrilateral and preferably square or substantantially square, while the parts 3 and 4 are triangular or substantially triangular,

and these triangles are preferably right angled triangles, the two triangles together placed base to base, being preferably equal in area to either one of the squares 1 and 2.

I will now proceed to describe how the garment is made up of these four pieces of material.

Referring to Fig. 4, a corner, indicated by dotted lines, is cut off each of the parts 1 and 2, leaving the edges 5 and 6. The corners 7 and 8 of the parts 1 are connected together by sewing or the like as shown in Fig. 2, to form an arm hole, and the material drapes itself as shown at 9 to accommodate the arm. The corresponding corners of part 2 are treated in the same way, as shown. The corner 10 of the part 2 1s lapped over the corner 11 of the part 1, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1, and the corner 12 of the part 2 laps over the corner 13 of the part 1 at the back of the garment. The part 2 is secured to part 1 by stitching along the lines 14, 15, 16 and 17 of the part 2 (Fig. 1), and the part 1 may be stitched to part 2 along the lines 18, 19, 20 and 21 of part 1. This is shown in dotted lines Fig. 1, but is not seen in Fig. 2. In this connection it will be noted that the back of the garment is, in appearance, substantially the same as the front of the garment. It will be noted that the line of sewing is so far entirely along the straight of the fabric, that is, parallel with the weave of the fabric, while the fabric hangs from the shoulders at the points where the corners 7 and 8 meet, so that the envelop or sheath thus formed is made of material which hangs diagonally of the weave, this being what is generally known as hanging on the bias. The two triangular portions 3 and 4 are now connected to the edges 22, 23, 24

and 25 of the tubular part so formed, which edges extend downwardly forming the corners 26 and 27, these corners being opposite the ones that have been cut off at edges 5 and 6 to form the arm holes. (Edge 25 is seen only in Fig. 4). The edge 28 of the part 3 is connected to the edge 23 of the part 1, and the edge 29 of the part 3 is connected to the edge 24 of the part 2. Similarly, the edge 30 of the part 4 is connected to the edge 22 of the part 1, and the edge 31 of said part 4 is connected to the edge 25 of the part 2, (not shown).

It will now be seen that a substantially tubular formation is secured, made up'of pieces having geometrical shapes and providing a' V-shaped neck opening, and two oblong arm openings, with all the sewing done on the straight of the goods and all the material hanging on the bias, and it will be noted in this connection that the sewing of the triangular edges 28, 29, 30.

and 31 is on the straight of the goods and not on the bias. This will be apparent from it will be understood that these geometrical shapes may be modified if itis desired to do so, for instance, to fit persons having unusual figures, in which case the parts 1 and 2 may be made rectangular, or the angles thereofmay vary. Variation ,or changes in the dimensions or shapes of the parts may also be made to produce different effects without departing from the general nature or principle of the invention. In some cases, in order to increase the length of the garment, the triangular parts 3 and 4 may be formedivith elongated portions 3 and 4 as shown in dotted lines, Figs. 1 and 2, in which case these elongated portions are connected together along the line or seam 32, as shown in Fig. 2, which seam is not noticeable; it will of course be understood that on the other side of the garment there will be a seam similar to the seam In the case where the strip of material is too narrow to permit of forming the part 3", I may proceed as indicated-in Fig. 5. In this figure, the piece of material which, for example, may be 40 inches in width, is shown in dotted lines and from this material the part 3 is out, leaving a portion 33 indicated by the dotted lines on the left hand side of this figure. This portion 33 is then cut out and connected as shown in full lines to the extension 3 along the line 34, so that the sewing takes place across the straight of the goods, as in the other diagonal seams of the garment, and this seam may be made as inconspicuous as possible, as it has no value in the ornamental effect of the dress.

In order to give a pleasing symmetrical efiect to the garment, I prefer to outline on the face of the piece 2, theedge 20-21 of the corner 11 of the part 1, which underlies said piece 2, and this I may do by means of braid or the like, and I prefer to braid all the seams of the parts 1, 2, 3 and 4 which show on the outside, with the exce tion of the seams 32, and seam 34, when suc seams are employed.

a In order to give a desirable or pleasing waist-line effect, I may connect the corners 10, 11 by means of bands 35, of which there may be any desired number, which bands may be made of any suitable material, or may be made of cord. They may be capable of adjustment, or elastic, if desired. Similar bands 36 connect the two corners of part 1 on the right hand side.

If desired, the V-shaped neck can be filled in to give a. high neck effect. This may be done by two triangular portions arranged back and front as indicated in dotted lines at 37 {and preferably made of ornamental fabric or material. A square or rectangular portion could be equally well used.

I may, if desired, attach sleeves to the arm holes, in which case I may cut away some of the material forming the folds 9, but I prefer to form sleeves or a draping covering the arms for my improved garment by means of an over-slip 38, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7. This over-slip consists of. a piece of material, preferably a square, formed with a central opening which is adapted to be passed over the head of the wearer. The slip is then folded along the line 39, and the edge 40 is connected to the edge 41 along the short line of stitching 42, while the edges 43 and 44 are connected along the short line of stitching 45. These lines of stitching extend for a short distance and along the edges. The arms can then be passed through the openings which are left at the corners 46, 47, as shown.

It will of course be understood that the garment may be made of any suitable or ornamental material desired.

While the aforesaid garment is made up of pieces of material which, before being sewed together, are of square or triangular or like straight line formation, it will be understood that it is one of the advantages of my improved garment that the lines of the fabric in use mold themselves to the figure of the wearer and give a pleasing or soft effect in complete contradistinction to the actual geometrical outline of the pieces of material. Owing to the fact that the material hangs on the bias, it can fall into the most effective folds, and moreover, the clasticity of the fabric in a direction diagonal of the weave permits of stretching the fabric and the subsequent return of the fabric to its previous shape. By having all the seams along the straight of the fabric, which is substantially inextensible, the pieces cannot be pulled out of shape, nor is there the tendency of the stitches of the seams to pull away from the fabric, as would occur were the stitchings on the bias.

The main'garment being a so-called one piece garment and without any fastening means whatsoever other than the stitching, it can be put on and taken off with the utmost ease; when worn with the overslip, which is also put on and taken ofl:' without fastening devices, it forms an extremely effective afternoon dress. With a low V- neck it constitutes an evening dress, and with the V-neck filled in, as described, and sleeves, it may be used as an out-door gown. As will be understood, variations in width, etc., may be effected by varying the proportions of the parts. a

It will be understood that the various modifications may be made in the construction or formation of the improved gown or garment without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention, and I wish it understood that I have described a preferred form herein, but do not regard myself as being limited thereto except as may be necessary by the scope of the appended claims.

What I claim is 1. 'A ladys gown, comprising a substantially tubular body portion formed of quadrilateral pieces of fabric ha'ving corners connected together across the front and back of the body, and angular portions connected between said pair of quadrilateral portions.

2. A ladys gown comprising a substantially tubular body composed of two substantially square and two substantially triangular portions connected together on the straight of the fabric and hanging on the bias.

3. A ladys gown comprising a pair of substantially rectangular pieces of fabric having corners connected together across the front and back of the body, and sleeve portions constituted by portions of the material connected together intermediate two of the corners of each of the portions.

4. In combination with a ladys gown, sleeves therefor formed from a substantially rectangular piece of material having a central opening for the head and overlapping on a diagonal line, the adjacent edges being partially and centrally stitched leaving body and arm holes.

5. A ladys gown comprising a substantially tubular body composed of angular portions on each side connected across the front and back of the gown, and angular bottom portions between said angular side portions.

6. A garment comprising a substantially tubular body composed of two substantially square and two substantially triangular portions connected together, and extensions forming a continuation of said triangular portions, said extensions being connected together.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

BERTHA HERBERT HOLLEY.

Witnesses:

Joe. E. SMITH, HORACE HOLLEY.

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