US1071955A - Garment. - Google Patents

Description

F. M. PRESTWIGH.

GARMENT. APPLICATION FILED MAY 16. 1912.

Patented Sept. 2, 1913.

FRANK M. PBESTWICH, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

GARMENT.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 2, 1913.

Application filed May 16, 1912. Serial No. 697,612.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, F RANK M. PnnsTwIoH, a subject of the King of England, and resident of New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garments, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to clothing and is herein illustrated as applied to a mans coat.

It is specifically directed to improving the stiffening or lining of clothes, so that they will hold their shape, and bend withoutundue creasing.

This object I attain by distributing the stiffening in an improved manner. One thickness or grade of stiffening may in a coat extend to the very edge of the front. This preferably is some extremely resilient material such as hair cloth. A greater thickness may extend from the shoulder to the neighborhood of the curve where the lapel turns back and a still greater thickness may extend some distance from the shoulder part.- way toward the lapel. The stiffening between the lapel turn and the arm hole at the shoulder has one thickness preferably of some solid material not easily bent. Such a material is canvas which has body but not much resiliency. Thus there may be a gradual increase of stiffness from the front edge to the arm hole. The extra stiffness through the shoulder may be extended to the edge of the coat in the vicinity of the lower end of the lapel, and is weakened as it approaches the edge of the coat at that point. In order to conceal the edges of the various stiflenings, said edges may be weakened. This may be done by serrating or perforating these edges.

Other improvements and advantages will be pointed out below or be obvious to those skilled in the art.

In the accompanying drawings Figure 1 represents one form of canvas as cut for a coat. Fig. 2 represents a piece of hair cloth which may be placed on it. Fig. 3 represents another form of hair cloth which may cover it, the hair cloth being composed of two pieces which are shown as slightly separated for the sake of clearness. Fig. 1 rep-- resents an alternative form showing the whole lining of a coat front assembled.

In Fig. 4e, 1 is a piece of canvas covering the whole side of a coat front. This is shown cut out from 2 to 3 for the armhole, and

from the armhole extends a heavy hair cloth stiffener 4 which ends along a nearly vertical line 5, (3, and is serrated along said line as at '7, 7. From this line 5, 6 extends over the front of the coata thinner hair cloth 8, which ends in the neighborhood of the place where the fold of the lapel will come from 9 to 10. This cloth is serrated along the edge 5, so as to fit in between the serrations of the stiffener 1-, and is also serrated along the line 9, 10 as seen at 11, 11 to break the stiffness of the edge. This line 9, 10 is preferably a hollow curve so as to weaken the hair cloth where it extends out to the edge of the canvas at 9. The lapel itself is stiffened with canvas only as seen at 12.

In Fig. 1 is shown a canvas 13 which resembles the canvas 1 except that it extends only to the neighborhood of the lapel the fold of which would lie along the line 14, 15. This edge may be weakened by being perforated as at 23, or serrated as at 16, 16. The serrations instead of extending along a curve may have their points extend to about the curve of the lapel along a line joining 14 and 15 and may extend back as far as a line running down from the shoulder at 21 to the bottom 22 of the hair cloth and the serrations increase in depth toward the bottom. Over this canvas may be placed a large aiece of hair cloth 17 which extends to the line, 18, 19 forming the edge of the garment itself (shown in dotted line 18, F 1). Preferably, however, I use the hair cloth shown in Fig. 3 which is composed of two pieces like that shown in Fig. 4: except that it extends to the edge of the garment. As will be seen, the hair cloth in Fig. 3 is coi'nposed of a light and a heavy portion which are serrated at their junction as are the pieces 1 and 8 of Fig. 4. This is shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1.

It will be noted that near the end of the fold of the lapel there is a double thickness of stiflening, as at 9 in Fig. 1. There is a similar double thickness at 1 1 in Fig. 1, when either the cloth of Fig. 2 or of Fig. 3 is placed in position on said figure. The edges of the hair cloth are preferably all bound with a narrow binding 20 which else where is omitted for the sake of clearness. And the hair is arranged to run unbroken horizontally preferably. The hair cloth is that usually used for stiffenin clothes and the canvas is of the kind used for that work also. The canvas may be either cotton, linen or other similar material, and such material is usually heavily sized. The lighter hair cloth is preferably what is known in the trade as wool hair cloth. The full shape of the garment front with both hair cloth and canvas is shown by dotted lines extending to 18 in Fig. l, and this also represents approximately the extent of the body fabric forming the outer surface of the garment. A fragment of the body fabric of the garment is shown at 25 on Fig. l.

Vhile I have described the various materials as canvas and hair cloth, it will be observed that these are merely typical of fabrics which give increased life and body to the cloth of the garment. From a different point of view they may be called stiffening materials.

For the sake of clearness in the drawings, all stitching has been omitted, but it will be understood that the materials are fastened together in any usual manner.

It will be noted that this system of interlining gives a structure which is known as a coat shape retainer though it. may be actually used in garments other than coats.

What therefore I claim is.

1. In a coat shape retainer, the combination of a stiffening extending from the arm hole to the front edge, a second stiffening extending from the armhole to the neighborhood of the lapel turn, said second stiffening having its edge adjacent the lapel turn serrated.

2. In a coat shape retainer, the combina tion with a canvas extending from the arm hole of the coat forward and terminating in the neighborhood of the turn of the lapel of the coat, said canvas covering the whole front of the coat except the lapel, of a stiffening more resilient than said canvas covering the lapel.

3. In a coat shape retainer, the combination with a canvas extending from the arm hole of the ceat forward and terminating in the neighborhood of the turn of the lapel of the coat, said canvas covering the whole front of the coat except the lapel, of another stiffening more resilient than said canvas extending from the arm hole across the entire upper part of the coat front so that it covers the lapel.

4. In a coat shape retainer, the combination with a canvas extending from the arm hole of the coat forward and terminating in the neighborhood of the turn of the lapel of the coat, said canvas covering the whole front of the coat except the lapel, of a hair cloth stiffening extending from said arm hole part way across said canvas toward said lapel turn, and another stiffening more resilient than said canvas extending forward from said hair cloth so as to cover the lapel.

5. In a coat shape retainer, the combination with a canvas extending from the arm hole of the coat forward and terminating in the neighborhood of the turn of the lapel of the coat, said canvas covering the whole front of the coat except the lapel, of a heavy hair cloth stiffening extending from said arm hole part way to the lapel turn, and a lighter hair cloth more resilient than said canvas extending forward from said heavy hair cloth so as to cover the lapel.

Signed at New York in the county of New York and State of New York this 15th day of May A. D. 1912.

FRANK M. PRESTVVICI- Witnesses:

EDWARD THOMAS, LORENZ L. PRITZL.

Copies 01'. this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington D. G.

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