US1051019A - Convertible collar. - Google Patents

Description

Patented Jan. 21, V.1913.

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LOUIS E. SCOLL, OF NEW YORK, 1\T. Y.

CONVERTIBLE COLLAR.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented J an. 21, 1913.

Application led January 18, 1911. Serial No. 603,213.

To all lwhom 15m/ay concern:

Be it known that I, LoUIs E. SCoLL, a citizen of the United States of America, and a resident of New York, in the county and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Convertible Collars, of which the following is a speciiication.

This invention has reference to improvements in collars of garments to be applied to overcoats, plain coats, capes, raincoats and other garments which are designed for outdoor wear both on gentlemens and ladies wearing apparel.

It is the special object of my invention to prodube convertible collars which may be transformed into storm collars when desired. However when such collar is in its normal position it can not be distinguished from an ordinary collar, accordingly such garment, overcoat or the like presents the same appearance as an ordinary garment of usual style or make.

Heretofore the usual collars on lovercoats and the like, when turned up, did not give the desired satisfactory protection against the weather. Collars of this type that may be turned up to form a military collar must be necessarily so constructed as to give them that military appearance which of course is subject to the change of fashion.

It is the purpose of the present invention to produce garments with convertible collars of such construction that may be turned up to form storm collars and afford full protection, but whose convertible features are invisible during normal wear and not subject to fashion. When the storm collar is in use the top crease remains in its usual normal position while in common collars and the so called military collars the top crease moves down when same are turned up.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which:

Figure 1 represents in front elevation the upper part of a coat with the collar in normal position. Fig. 2 is a like view with the storm collar turned up. Fig. 3 is a plan view of a collar without facing having its central portion broken away. Fig. t is a cross section on an enlarged scale through The detail construct-ion of the present colf lar is apparent from Figs. 2-5. The flap l shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3 is made of one piece with the collar stiffener e that forms the collar. stiifener e consist of a layer of canvas k and lining z'. Between the canvas and the lining forming the collar stiffener haircloth j or the like is inserted for the purpose of stiffening or strengthening same. A strip f consisting of a layer of canvas 7c, lining Z and another layer m of stiffening material is placed in unfolded condition on the unfolded stiifener d, e, and both are now sewed together forming the seam g. The stiifener cl, e, is now stitched to secure its various layers together. The strip f however is folded and stitched together to make it double. The stitching of the stiifener d, e may be done before it is attached to the strip f by the seam g to unite its various layers. Likewise the strip f may be stitched in the unfolded condition to join its several layers and after being joined it is folded and stitched to make double.

From the described construction it is apparent that the seam which joins the stiffener d, c, and the strip f is not in the normal top crease of the coat collar but somewhat below same for purposes to be eX- plained farther down. It is self-evident that the stiffener cl, c, forming with the facing r the collar proper turns on the seam g in an upward direction to form the storm collar leaving above said seam the strip f which always remains in its original position. The top edge of the strip f in fact is at the same height as the normal top crease in collars of coats of common construction This Hap CZ and collar l but of course hidden under the material of the top portion of the collar when in normal position. Y

A back piece n composed of two layers of lining 0, 0, with hair-cloth p or o-ther stiffening material between said two layers of lining, stitched together in the usual manner, is secured to the inside of the strip fby stitching which extends from the top edge of the strip f down to the oining seam This back piece n is located in the back of the finished coat where it is `.usually found. This back piece or stand n is provided with the layer of hair-cloth between the two layers of lining for the purpose of stiifening same so that the storm collar when turned up stands nicely in position. The entire device is covered with the usual facing of the coat material to form the complete collar sho-wn in Figs. 1 and 2.

The outside ends f1 of the strip 7 are secured each to one lapel somewhat away from the normal crease b2 as shown in Figs. l and 2. This is done for the purpose of getting the automatic effect of having the collar higher up when in its normal position. l/Vhen the collar is transformed into a storm collar it turns on the seam g in an upward direction.v The lapel does not turn on its normal crease but on the outer edge of the strip end f1 leaving that portion of the lapel near the crease in its normal position. This is done for the purpose of having the lapels turnin a harmonious and continuous line with the seam g. In order to prevent that the strip f turns inwardly toward the body when the collar is turned up and to make the collar stand nicely in position, the layer of haircloth p or similar stiffening material is provided in the back piece n which thus serves a double purpose.

To make matters entirely clear it may be stated that when the collar is converted into a storm collar it turns on the seam g and each lapel on the outer edge of an end f1 of the strip 7. rIhus the storm collar and lapels move upward in one continuous and harmonious line. The strip f with facing remains in its normal position above the seam g and its ends reaching into the lapels likewise retain their normal position. Said ends f1 of the strip f while having a tendency to keep the collar up even with the normal crease allow the lapels only to turn on the outer edges of same leaving those portions of the lapel beyond, that is near the normal crease also in the original position. Vhen the lapels are turned up the one that overlaps the other may be secured to the top portion of the coat by a button and button-hole device q or the like. Vhen the storm collar is in position and the lapels turned up the facing or coat material now exposed to view does not form any crease with the seam g or its continuation and presents a smooth appearance.

I claim as my invention 1. A convertible collar for garments adapted to be transformed into a storm collar, comprising a facing, a collar stiifener within having a seam below the normal top crease of t-he collar on which seam said collar turns when transformed, and a stiffened double strip immediately above said seam with narrowing end portions reaching one each into an inner lapel portion adjoining its crease so that the storm collar and the lapels move upward together in a continuo-us and harmonious line.

2. A convertibleA collar for garments, comprising a facing, a collar stiifener within having an integral iiap of less width than said stiifener, and a double stiffening strip i joined with its folding edge to the division line of said stiffener and flap forming there a seam on which the collar turns, said stiifening strip having narrowing end portions reaching one each into an inner lapel portion adjoining its crease so that the storm collar and the lapels move upward together in a co-ntinuous and harmonious line.

8. A convertible collar for garments, comprising a facing, a stiffener within having an integral flap of less width and length than said stiffener, a doubled narrow stilening strip joined with its folding edge to the division line of said stiifener and flap forming there a seam on which the collar turns, said strip having narrowing freevend portions reaching one each into an inner lapel portion adjoining its crease, and a back piece stitched to the central inner portion of said stiffening strip, so arranged that the storm collar and the lapels move upwardly together in a continuous and harmonious line.

t. A convertible collar for garments, comprising a facing, a collar stiener within having an integral iap of less width and length than said stiener and consisting of a layer of canvas and a layer of lining with a layer of stiffening material between and extending from their division line through the larger portion of said stiener forming a seam below the normal top crease of the collar on which seam the collar turns when transformed, and a folded stiffening strip made of canvas, lining, and a layer of stiffening material joined thereto immediately above said seam.

5. A convertible collar for garments, comprising a facing, a collar stiffener within having an integral flap of less width and.

length than said stiffener and consisting of a layer of canvas and a layer of lining with a layer of stiffening material' between and extending from their division line through the larger portion of said stiifener forming so that the storm collar and the lapels move 10 a seam below the normal top crease of the upward together in a continuous and hareollar on which seam the collar turns when monious line.

transformed, and a folded stiiening strip Signed at New York, N. Y., this 16th made of canvas, lining, and a layer of day of January, 1911.

stiffening material joined thereto imme- LOUIS E. SCOLL. diately above said seam, and having nar- Witnesses:

rowing free ends extending one each into VERA PAULSEN,

an inner lapel portion adjoining its Grease CORINNE MYERS.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

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