TWI888433B - Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics - Google Patents
Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料,係含有下述成分(A)、(B)、(C)及(D): (A)與角鯊烷不相溶的非揮發性聚矽氧油:0.1~25質量%、 (B)聚矽氧系被膜形成劑:2~20質量%、 (C)揮發性油、 (D)酯油:0.1~12質量%;其中 成分(A)在25℃下的黏度係30~100000mPa・s; 成分(A)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(A)/[(A)+(D)]係0.3~0.95。The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention contains the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D): (A) non-volatile silicone oil incompatible with squalane: 0.1~25% by mass (B) silicone film-forming agent: 2~20% by mass (C) volatile oil, (D) ester oil: 0.1~12% by mass; wherein the viscosity of component (A) at 25°C is 30~100000 mPa・s; the mass ratio of component (A) to the total content of components (A) and (D) is (A)/[(A)+(D)] 0.3~0.95.
Description
本發明係關於油中水型乳化化妝料。The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.
粉底等油中水型乳化化妝料,要求化妝持續性優異、不黏瘩、及使用感良好。 例如,專利文獻1記載有:含有經表面處理之顏料、揮發性油、水、有機聚矽氧樹脂、及非離子界面活性劑的油中水型乳化化妝料,係沒有黏瘩感、維持水嫩觸感、可獲得均勻完妝感。Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics such as foundations require excellent makeup durability, no stickiness, and good feel when used. For example, Patent Document 1 states: Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics containing surface-treated pigments, volatile oils, water, organic polysilicone resins, and non-ionic surfactants are non-sticky, maintain a moist touch, and can achieve a uniform finish.
(專利文獻1)日本專利特開2019-99468號公報(Patent Document 1) Japanese Patent Publication No. 2019-99468
本發明係關於油中水型乳化化妝料,其含有下述成分(A)、(B)、(C)及(D): (A)與角鯊烷不相溶的非揮發性聚矽氧油:0.1~25質量%、 (B)聚矽氧系被膜形成劑:2~20質量%、 (C)揮發性油、 (D)酯油:0.1~12質量%;其中, 成分(A)在25℃下的黏度係30~100000mPa・s; 成分(A)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(A)/[(A)+(D)]係0.3~0.95。The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, which contains the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D): (A) non-volatile silicone oil incompatible with squalane: 0.1~25% by mass (B) silicone film-forming agent: 2~20% by mass (C) volatile oil (D) ester oil: 0.1~12% by mass wherein, the viscosity of component (A) at 25°C is 30~100000 mPa・s; the mass ratio of component (A) to the total content of components (A) and (D) is (A)/[(A)+(D)] 0.3~0.95.
本發明人等發現:含有聚矽氧系被膜形成劑、揮發性油、及酯油的乳化化妝料,雖化妝持續性優異,但隨時間經過會有容易脫妝的問題。The inventors of the present invention have found that an emulsified cosmetic containing a silicone film-forming agent, a volatile oil, and an ester oil has excellent makeup lasting property, but has the problem of easy makeup removal over time.
本發明人等發現:藉由在含有聚矽氧系被膜形成劑與揮發性油的油中水型乳化化妝料中,依特定比例使用特定的非揮發性聚矽氧油與酯油,便可持續剛塗抹後的肌膚亮度、可獲得均勻完妝感,且即使經過長時間,仍不會泛油光、可抑制脫妝,可持續化妝感。The inventors of the present invention have found that by using specific non-volatile silicone oil and ester oil in a specific ratio in an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing a silicone film-forming agent and a volatile oil, the skin brightness immediately after application can be maintained, a uniform makeup finish can be obtained, and even after a long period of time, there will be no oily shine, makeup fading can be suppressed, and the makeup feel can be sustained.
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料之特徵在於:化妝感持續性優異,且即使經過長時間,仍可持續剛塗抹後的肌膚亮度與均勻完妝感,可抑制因皮脂造成的油光,即使接觸到毛巾化妝肌膚仍不會脫妝。此處,所謂「化妝感」係指具充分遮蓋力,且具透明感的自然完妝感。The characteristics of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention are: excellent makeup feeling lasting, and even after a long time, the skin brightness and uniform makeup feeling just after application can be maintained, and the oily shine caused by sebum can be suppressed, and the makeup will not be removed even if it comes into contact with the towel-made skin. Here, the so-called "makeup feeling" refers to a natural makeup feeling with sufficient coverage and a sense of transparency.
本發明所使用的成分(A)係與角鯊烷不相溶的非揮發性聚矽氧油。 所謂「非揮發性」係指將油劑1g拓展於直徑48mm的玻璃培養皿中,在25℃、常壓下放置24小時後的質量減少率在1%以下。聚矽氧油係除二甲基聚矽氧烷等直鏈狀聚矽氧油之外,亦可係:苯基改質聚矽氧、甲基氫聚矽氧烷等具取代基的改質聚矽氧。 再者,所謂「與角鯊烷不相溶」係指將聚矽氧油與角鯊烷依質量比1:1混合,拿在手上,依晃動次數120次/分、晃動幅度30cm,進行30秒鐘攪拌混合後,再利用旋渦混合器進行30秒鐘攪拌,靜置1分鐘,觀察此狀態時呈現白濁狀態。此種聚矽氧油隨時間經過會分離為2層。The component (A) used in the present invention is a non-volatile silicone oil that is incompatible with squalane. The so-called "non-volatile" means that when 1g of the oil is spread in a glass culture dish with a diameter of 48mm and placed at 25°C and normal pressure for 24 hours, the mass reduction rate is less than 1%. In addition to linear silicone oils such as dimethyl polysiloxane, silicone oils can also be modified silicones with substituents such as phenyl modified polysiloxane and methyl hydropolysiloxane. Furthermore, the so-called "incompatible with squalane" means that the silicone oil and squalane are mixed in a mass ratio of 1:1, held in the hand, and stirred for 30 seconds at a shaking frequency of 120 times/minute and a shaking amplitude of 30cm, and then stirred for another 30 seconds using a vortex mixer, and then left to stand for 1 minute. When observing this state, it is white and cloudy. This kind of silicone oil will separate into two layers over time.
成分(A)係從藉由與角鯊烷不相溶,而持續化妝感,即使時間經過後,仍會持續剛塗抹後的肌膚亮度,可獲得平整且均勻之完妝感的觀點,較佳係至少含有二甲基聚矽氧烷。Ingredient (A) is incompatible with squalane, so that the makeup feels lasting, and even after the passage of time, the skin brightness immediately after application will continue, and a smooth and even finish can be obtained. It is preferred that it contains at least dimethyl polysiloxane.
再者,成分(A)從即使經過長時間,仍可抑制因皮脂造成的油光,即使接觸到毛巾化妝肌膚仍不會脫妝的觀點,在25℃下的黏度較佳係30~100000mPa・s、更佳係30~50000mPa・s、特佳係50~10000mPa・s、最佳係100~5000mPa・s、又最佳係150~3000mPa・s。又,從化妝感持續性、即使時間經過後仍可持續剛塗抹後的肌膚亮度、可獲得平整且均勻的完妝感、即使接觸到毛巾化妝肌膚仍不會脫妝的觀點,在25℃下的黏度較佳係100~50000mPa・s。 此處的黏度係在25℃下,利用B型黏度計(TVB-10型・東機產業公司製、測定條件:轉子TM1~TM4、6rpm、1分鐘)進行測定。黏度30~1000mPa・s的測定係利用TM1進行測定,1000~5000mPa・s係利用TM2進行測定,5000~20000mPa・s係利用TM3進行測定,20000~100000mPa・s係利用TM4進行測定。Furthermore, from the viewpoint that the component (A) can suppress the oiliness caused by sebum even over a long period of time and does not remove the makeup even when it comes into contact with the towel-made skin, the viscosity at 25°C is preferably 30 to 100,000 mPa·s, more preferably 30 to 50,000 mPa·s, particularly preferably 50 to 10,000 mPa·s, most preferably 100 to 5,000 mPa·s, and most preferably 150 to 3,000 mPa·s. In addition, from the perspective of the durability of the makeup feeling, the skin brightness after application can be maintained even after a period of time, a smooth and uniform makeup feeling can be obtained, and the makeup will not come off even if it touches the skin with a towel, the viscosity at 25°C is preferably 100~50000mPa・s. The viscosity here is measured at 25°C using a B-type viscometer (TVB-10 model, manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd., measurement conditions: rotor TM1~TM4, 6rpm, 1 minute). The viscosity of 30~1000mPa・s is measured by TM1, 1000~5000mPa・s is measured by TM2, 5000~20000mPa・s is measured by TM3, and 20000~100000mPa・s is measured by TM4.
成分(A)可使用1種或2種以上,從藉由與角鯊烷不相溶,而持續化妝感、即使時間經過後仍可持續剛塗抹後的肌膚亮度、可獲得平整且均勻之完妝感的觀點,含量於總組成中係0.1質量%以上、較佳係1質量%以上、更佳係2質量%以上,且係25質量%以下、較佳係20質量%以下、更佳係13質量%以下。又,成分(A)的含量於總組成中係0.1~25質量%、較佳係1~20質量%、更佳係2~13質量%。Component (A) may be used in one or more kinds. From the viewpoint of maintaining the makeup feeling due to incompatibility with squalane, maintaining the skin brightness just after application even after the passage of time, and obtaining a smooth and uniform makeup feeling, the content of component (A) is 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 2% by mass or more, and 25% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 13% by mass or less in the total composition. In addition, the content of component (A) is 0.1-25% by mass, preferably 1-20% by mass, and more preferably 2-13% by mass in the total composition.
成分(B)的聚矽氧系被膜形成劑係在通常化妝料所使用者之前提下,均可任意使用,較佳係25℃下呈固態狀者。 成分(B)的被膜形成劑可舉例如:三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸、氟改質聚矽氧樹脂、丙烯酸聚矽氧樹脂等。The polysilicone film-forming agent of component (B) can be used arbitrarily under the conditions of being used in general cosmetics, and preferably is in a solid state at 25°C. The film-forming agent of component (B) can be exemplified by trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, fluorine-modified polysilicone resin, acrylic polysilicone resin, etc.
成分(B)中,成分(B-1)三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸係在通常化妝料所使用者之前提下,其餘並無限制,較佳係具有主骨架為矽氧烷構造之交聯構造的化合物,且依[(CH3 )3 SiO1/2 ]a [SiO2 ]b (a係1~3、b係0.5~8)所示者。 成分(B-1)三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸,從化妝持續性與完妝感的觀點,質量平均分子量較佳係1000~10000、更佳係2000~9000、特佳係3000~6000。又,其性狀係在25℃下可呈液狀、膠狀、糊膏狀、固態狀等之任一狀態,從所獲得化妝持續性與完妝感的觀點,較佳係固態狀。又,從調配性的觀點,亦可為利用溶劑稀釋的溶液或分散液,抑或依事先混合獲得的溶液或分散液的狀態使用。稀釋或分散時所使用的溶劑較佳係從二甲基聚矽氧烷、八甲基環四矽氧烷、十甲基環五矽氧烷、異十二烷中選擇之1種或2種以上,更佳係揮發性的二甲基聚矽氧烷、十甲基環五矽氧烷。另外,所謂「揮發性」係指具有35~87℃的引火點者。Among the components (B), the trimethylsiloxysilicic acid of the component (B-1) is used in general cosmetics, and the rest is not limited. It is preferably a compound having a cross-linked structure in which the main skeleton is a siloxane structure, and is represented by [(CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ] a [SiO 2 ] b (a is 1 to 3, b is 0.5 to 8). The trimethylsiloxysilicic acid of the component (B-1) preferably has a mass average molecular weight of 1000 to 10000, more preferably 2000 to 9000, and particularly preferably 3000 to 6000 from the viewpoint of makeup durability and makeup finish. Furthermore, its properties may be any state of liquid, gel, paste, solid, etc. at 25°C. From the perspective of makeup durability and makeup finish, it is preferably in a solid state. From the perspective of formulation, it may be a solution or dispersion diluted with a solvent, or used in the state of a solution or dispersion obtained by premixing. The solvent used for dilution or dispersion is preferably one or more selected from dimethylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and isododecane, and more preferably volatile dimethylpolysiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. In addition, the so-called "volatility" refers to those having a flash point of 35 to 87°C.
成分(B-1)的市售物係預先溶解於溶劑者,可使用:KF-7312J(固形份50%十甲基環五矽氧烷溶液)、KF-9021(50%十甲基環五矽氧烷溶液)、X21-5249(50%十甲基環五矽氧烷溶液)(以上均為信越化學工業公司製);SS4267(35%二甲基聚矽氧烷溶液)、SR1000(以上均為Momentive Performance Materials Japan合同公司製);BY11-018(30%環五矽氧烷溶液)(Toray Dow Corning Silicone公司製);BELSIL TMS 803(Wacker Chemie AG公司製)等。The commercially available material of component (B-1) is pre-dissolved in a solvent, and the following can be used: KF-7312J (solid content 50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution), KF-9021 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution), X21-5249 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution) (all manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.); SS4267 (35% dimethylpolysiloxane solution), SR1000 (all manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials Japan Co., Ltd.); BY11-018 (30% cyclopentasiloxane solution) (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Silicone Co., Ltd.); BELSIL TMS 803 (manufactured by Wacker Chemie AG), etc.
成分(B)中,成分(B-2)氟改質聚矽氧樹脂較佳係具有一般式(1): R1 a SiO(4-a)/2 (1) (式中,R1 係碳數1~8之烴基、苯基、羥基、或一般式-R2 -Rf(R2 係表示碳數2~6之2價伸烷基,Rf係表示碳數1~8之全氟烷基),且從以羥基與一般式-R2 -Rf為必要的官能基中任意選擇,a係依平均數計為1.0≦a≦1.8) 所示構造者。 氟改質聚矽氧樹脂從對肌膚之附著性的觀點,係分子內具有矽醇基,矽醇基中的OH基比例,相對於樹脂質量較佳係0.1~5質量%、更佳係0.5~5質量%。Among the components (B), the fluorine-modified polysilicone resin of component (B-2) preferably has a structure represented by the general formula (1): R 1 a SiO (4-a)/2 (1) (wherein R 1 is an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a hydroxyl group, or a group of the general formula -R 2 -Rf (R 2 is a divalent alkyl group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and Rf is a perfluoroalkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms), and is arbitrarily selected from functional groups having a hydroxyl group and a group of the general formula -R 2 -Rf as essential functional groups, and a is an average number such that 1.0≦a≦1.8). From the perspective of adhesion to the skin, the fluorine-modified polysilicone resin has silanol groups in the molecule, and the ratio of OH groups in the silanol groups is preferably 0.1-5% by mass, and more preferably 0.5-5% by mass, relative to the mass of the resin.
成分(B-2)較佳係在25℃下呈固態,從調配性的觀點,亦可為利用溶劑稀釋溶液或分散液、抑或依事先混合獲得的溶液或分散液的狀態使用。稀釋或分散時所使用的溶劑較佳係溶解於環狀聚矽氧、二甲基聚矽氧烷等而使用。環狀聚矽氧較佳係溶解於從八甲基環四矽氧烷(D4)及十甲基環五矽氧烷(D5)中選擇之1種以上而使用。 此種氟改質聚矽氧樹脂係可使用INCI名「三氟丙基二甲基/三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸酯(Trifluoropropyldimethyl/Trimethylsiloxysilicate)」的XS66-B8226、XS66-C1191、XS66-B8636(以上均為Momentive Performance Materials公司製)等市售物。Component (B-2) is preferably solid at 25°C. From the perspective of formulation, it can be used as a solution or dispersion diluted with a solvent, or in the state of a solution or dispersion obtained by mixing in advance. The solvent used for dilution or dispersion is preferably dissolved in cyclopolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, etc. Cyclic polysiloxane is preferably dissolved in one or more selected from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). As such fluorine-modified silicone resin, commercially available products such as XS66-B8226, XS66-C1191, and XS66-B8636 (all manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials) with the INCI name "Trifluoropropyldimethyl/Trimethylsiloxysilicate" can be used.
成分(B)中,成分(B-3)丙烯酸聚矽氧樹脂係可舉例如:側鏈具有碳矽氧烷樹枝狀高分子構造的乙烯系聚合體、丙烯酸-聚矽氧系接枝共聚合體等。 側鏈具有碳矽氧烷樹枝狀高分子構造的乙烯系聚合體係可舉例如:聚矽氧樹枝狀高分子・丙烯酸共聚合體等,例如,依照日本專利特開平11-1530號公報、特開2000-63225號公報等所記載製造方法便可製造。 本發明所使用具有碳矽氧烷樹枝狀高分子構造的乙烯系聚合體之數量平均分子量,從化妝持續性與完妝感的觀點,較佳係3,000~2,000,000、更佳係5,000~800,000。 再者,其性狀從持妝與完妝感的觀點,較佳係固態狀。又,具有碳矽氧烷樹枝狀高分子構造的乙烯系聚合體,係可依固態狀態調配,但亦可溶解於溶劑而使用。溶劑係可舉例如:聚矽氧油、烴油,可使用從二甲基聚矽氧烷、十甲基環五矽氧烷、異十二烷中選擇之1種或2種以上。Among the components (B), the acrylic polysilicone resin of component (B-3) may be, for example, a vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendritic polymer structure as a side chain, an acrylic-polysilicone graft copolymer, etc. The vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendritic polymer structure as a side chain may be, for example, a polysilicone dendritic polymer and an acrylic copolymer, etc., and may be produced, for example, according to the production method described in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-1530, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2000-63225, etc. The number average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendritic polymer structure used in the present invention is preferably 3,000-2,000,000, and more preferably 5,000-800,000 from the viewpoint of makeup durability and makeup finish. Furthermore, its properties are preferably solid from the viewpoint of makeup durability and makeup finish. In addition, the vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendritic polymer structure can be formulated in a solid state, but can also be dissolved in a solvent for use. Solvents include, for example, polysiloxane oils and hydrocarbon oils, and one or more selected from dimethylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and isododecane can be used.
側鏈具有碳矽氧烷樹枝狀高分子構造的乙烯系聚合體,較佳係聚矽氧樹枝狀高分子・丙烯酸共聚合體,較佳係化妝品顯示名稱「(丙烯酸酯/聚三甲基矽氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯)共聚物」(INCI名稱「Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer」),可使用:預先溶解於溶劑中的FA4001CM(30質量%十甲基環五矽氧烷溶液)、FA4002ID(40質量%異十二烷溶液)(以上均為Toray Dow Corning公司製)等市售物。A vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure as a side chain, preferably a polysiloxane dendrimer-acrylic acid copolymer, preferably a cosmetic name "(Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer") (INCI name "Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer"), and commercially available products such as FA4001CM (30% by mass decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution) and FA4002ID (40% by mass isododecane solution) (both manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd.) pre-dissolved in a solvent can be used.
再者,丙烯酸-聚矽氧系接枝共聚合體係分子鏈單側末端具有自由基聚合性基的有機聚矽氧烷化合物、與以丙烯酸酯及/或甲基丙烯酸酯為主體的自由基聚合性單體之自由基聚合體。此可使用例如:日本專利特開平2-25411號公報、特開平2-132141號公報等所記載者、或日本專利特開平3-162442號公報、特開2003-104825號公報等所記載的丙烯酸-聚矽氧系接枝共聚合體。Furthermore, the acrylic acid-polysilicone graft copolymer is a free radical polymer of an organic polysiloxane compound having a free radical polymerizable group at one end of the molecular chain and a free radical polymerizable monomer mainly composed of acrylate and/or methacrylate. For example, the acrylic acid-polysilicone graft copolymer described in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-25411, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-132141, or Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 3-162442, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-104825 can be used.
丙烯酸-聚矽氧系接枝共聚合體較佳係化妝品顯示名稱「(丙烯酸酯/矽靈)共聚物」(INCI名稱「Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer」),可使用:預先溶解於溶劑中的KP545(30質量%十甲基環五矽氧烷溶液)、KP549(40質量%甲基聚三甲基矽氧烷溶液)、KP550(40質量%異十二烷溶液)(以上均為信越化學工業公司製)等市售物。The acrylic-polysilicone graft copolymer is preferably a cosmetic product display name "(Acrylates/Dimethicone) Copolymer" (INCI name "Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer"), and commercially available products such as KP545 (30% by mass decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution), KP549 (40% by mass methyl trimethicone solution), and KP550 (40% by mass isododecane solution) pre-dissolved in a solvent can be used (all manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
成分(B)從在肌膚上形成被膜、即使經過長時間仍可抑制因皮脂造成之油光的觀點,較佳係含有從三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸、氟改質聚矽氧樹脂、側鏈具有碳矽氧烷樹枝狀高分子構造的乙烯系聚合體中選擇之1種或2種以上者,更佳係含有從三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸及氟改質聚矽氧樹脂中選擇之1種或2種以上者。Component (B) preferably contains one or more selected from trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, fluorine-modified polysilicone resin, and vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendron structure in the side chain, and more preferably contains one or more selected from trimethylsiloxysilicic acid and fluorine-modified polysilicone resin, from the viewpoint of forming a film on the skin and suppressing the oiliness caused by sebum even over a long period of time.
成分(B)係可使用1種或2種以上,從即使經過長時間仍可抑制因皮脂造成的油光、即使接觸到毛巾化妝肌膚仍不會脫妝的觀點,含量於總組成中較佳係0.5質量%以上、更佳係1質量%以上、特佳係2質量%以上、最佳係2.3質量%以上、又最佳係2.6質量%以上,且較佳係20質量%以下、更佳係10質量%以下、特佳係8質量%以下。又,成分(B)的含量於總組成中較佳係0.5~20質量%、更佳係1~10質量%、特佳係2~8質量%、最佳係2.3~8質量%、又最佳係2.6~8質量%。One or more components (B) may be used. From the viewpoint of suppressing shine caused by sebum even over a long period of time and preventing makeup from coming off even when it comes into contact with the skin with a towel, the content of the component (B) is preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, particularly preferably 2% by mass or more, optimally 2.3% by mass or more, and optimally 2.6% by mass or more, and preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 8% by mass or less. In addition, the content of the component (B) is preferably 0.5-20% by mass, more preferably 1-10% by mass, particularly preferably 2-8% by mass, optimally 2.3-8% by mass, and optimally 2.6-8% by mass in the total composition.
本發明中,成分(B)相對於成分(A)的質量比例(B)/(A),從形成會撥開皮脂之被膜的觀點,較佳係0.06以上、更佳係0.2以上、特佳係0.3以上,且較佳係10以下、更佳係4以下、特佳係2.4以下。又,成分(B)相對於成分(A)的質量比例(B)/(A)較佳係0.06~10、更佳係0.2~4、特佳係0.3~2.4。In the present invention, the mass ratio (B)/(A) of the component (B) to the component (A) is preferably 0.06 or more, more preferably 0.2 or more, particularly preferably 0.3 or more, and is preferably 10 or less, more preferably 4 or less, and particularly preferably 2.4 or less, from the viewpoint of forming a film that spreads sebum. In addition, the mass ratio (B)/(A) of the component (B) to the component (A) is preferably 0.06 to 10, more preferably 0.2 to 4, and particularly preferably 0.3 to 2.4.
成分(C)的揮發性油,所謂「揮發性」係指具有35~87℃的引火點。 揮發性油係可舉例如:揮發性聚矽氧油、揮發性烴油。 揮發性聚矽氧油係可舉例如:二甲基聚矽氧烷(1cs)、二甲基聚矽氧烷(1.5cs)、二甲基聚矽氧烷(2cs)等直鏈狀二甲基聚矽氧烷;甲基聚三甲基矽氧烷、叁(三甲矽烷基)甲基矽烷、肆(三甲矽烷基)矽烷等分支狀矽氧烷;八甲基環四矽氧烷、十甲基環五矽氧烷、十二甲基環六矽氧烷等環狀二甲基矽氧烷等等。 該等之中,從剛塗抹後的肌膚可獲得平整且均勻之完妝感的觀點,較佳係直鏈狀二甲基聚矽氧烷、環狀二甲基聚矽氧烷,更佳係含有直鏈狀二甲基聚矽氧烷。The volatile oil of component (C) is "volatile" in the sense that it has a flash point of 35-87°C. Examples of volatile oils include volatile silicone oil and volatile hydrocarbon oil. Volatile silicone oils include, for example: linear dimethylpolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (1cs), dimethylpolysiloxane (1.5cs), and dimethylpolysiloxane (2cs); branched siloxanes such as methylpolytrimethicone, tris(trimethylsilyl)methylsilane, and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)silane; cyclic dimethylsiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc. Among them, linear dimethicone and cyclic dimethicone are preferred from the viewpoint that the skin can obtain a smooth and uniform finish immediately after application, and linear dimethicone is more preferred.
揮發性烴油係可舉例如:正癸烷、正十一烷、正十二烷等烷烴系烴油;異癸烷、異十二烷、氫化聚異丁烯等異烷烴系烴油;環癸烷、環十二烷等環狀烷烴烴油。該等之中,較佳係碳數8~16之烴油、更佳係碳數10~16之烴油、特佳係碳數12之烴油。Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include alkane-based hydrocarbon oils such as n-decane, n-undecane, and n-dodecane; isoalkane-based hydrocarbon oils such as isodecane, isododecane, and hydrogenated polyisobutene; and cycloalkane-based hydrocarbon oils such as cyclodecane and cyclododecane. Among these, hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms are preferred, hydrocarbon oils having 10 to 16 carbon atoms are more preferred, and hydrocarbon oils having 12 carbon atoms are particularly preferred.
成分(C)的揮發性油,從剛塗抹後的肌膚可獲得平整且均勻之完妝感的觀點,較佳係含有揮發性聚矽氧油、更佳係含有直鏈狀二甲基聚矽氧烷。The volatile oil of ingredient (C) preferably contains volatile silicone oil, and more preferably contains linear dimethyl polysiloxane, from the viewpoint of providing a smooth and even finish to the skin immediately after application.
成分(C)係可使用1種或2種以上,從剛塗抹後的肌膚可獲得平整且均勻之完妝感的觀點,含量於總組成中較佳係5質量%以上、更佳係15質量%以上、特佳係25質量%以上,且較佳係50質量%以下、更佳係40質量%以下、特佳係35質量%以下。又,成分(C)的含量於總組成中較佳係5~50質量%、更佳係15~40質量%、特佳係25~35質量%。Ingredient (C) may be used in one or more kinds. From the viewpoint of obtaining a smooth and even finish on the skin immediately after application, the content of the ingredient (C) is preferably 5% by mass or more, more preferably 15% by mass or more, and particularly preferably 25% by mass or more, and is preferably 50% by mass or less, more preferably 40% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 35% by mass or less. In addition, the content of the ingredient (C) is preferably 5-50% by mass, more preferably 15-40% by mass, and particularly preferably 25-35% by mass in the total composition.
成分(D)的酯油係在通常化妝料所使用者之前提下,其餘並無限制,較佳係非揮發性的酯油。此處,所謂「非揮發性」係在35~87℃未具引火點,又,較佳係在25℃下呈液狀或糊膏狀之具流動性者。The ester oil of ingredient (D) is not limited to any other ester oil under the premise that it is generally used in cosmetics, and is preferably a non-volatile ester oil. Here, the so-called "non-volatile" means that it has no flash point at 35-87°C, and is preferably a fluid ester oil in a liquid or paste state at 25°C.
該酯油係可舉例如:異壬酸異壬酯、異壬酸異癸酯、異壬酸異十三酯、異壬酸三環癸烷甲酯、月桂酸己酯、蘋果酸辛基十二酯、2-乙基己酸鯨蠟酯、2-乙基己酸-2-己基癸酯、肉豆蔻酸異丙酯、肉豆蔻酸-2-己基癸酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二酯、棕櫚酸異丙酯、棕櫚酸-2-乙基己酯、異硬脂酸乙酯、異硬脂酸異丙酯、異硬脂酸異丁酯、異硬脂酸-2-己基癸酯、羥基硬脂酸-2-乙基己酯、油酸辛基十二酯、油酸油酯、篦麻油酸辛基十二酯、對甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯、碳酸伸丙酯等單酯油;琥珀酸二(2-乙基己酯)、琥珀酸雙乙氧基二乙二醇酯、二(辛酸/癸酸)丙二醇酯、二異壬酸新戊二醇酯、二癸酸新戊二醇酯、二異硬脂酸甘油酯、二異硬脂酸聚甘油酯、二異硬脂酸丙二醇酯、蘋果酸二異硬脂酯、月桂醯基麩胺酸二(植物固醇酯/辛基十二酯)、月桂醯基麩胺酸二(膽固醇酯/廿二酯/辛基十二酯)、月桂醯基麩胺酸二(辛基十二酯/植物固醇酯/廿二酯)、二(2-乙基己酸)新戊二醇酯、二辛酸新戊二醇酯等二酯油;三羥甲基丙烷三異硬脂酸酯、三異硬脂酸甘油酯、三異硬脂酸二甘油酯、荷荷芭油、三羥甲基丙烷三(2-乙基己酸酯)、三(2-乙基己酸)甘油酯、三(辛/癸酸)甘油酯、三辛酸甘油酯、三(十三基)偏苯三甲酸酯、夏威夷果油、橄欖油、篦麻油、荷荷芭油、酪梨油、葵花油等三酯油;四辛酸季戊四醇酯、四異硬脂酸二甘油酯、四異硬脂酸二季戊四醇酯、四異硬脂酸季戊四醇酯等。The ester oil includes, for example, isononanoic acid is ... Isobutyl ester, 2-hexyldecyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyl p-methoxycinnamate, propylene carbonate and other monoester oils; di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diethoxydiethylene glycol succinate, di(caprylic/capric)propylene glycol ester, neopentyl glycol diisononanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearate glyceryl, diisostearate polyglyceryl Ester, propylene glycol diisostearate, diisostearate apple acid, lauryl glutamate di(phytosterol ester/octyl dodecyl ester), lauryl glutamate di(cholesterol ester/behenyl ester/octyl dodecyl ester), lauryl glutamate di(octyl dodecyl ester/phytosterol ester/behenyl ester), neopentyl glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), neopentyl glycol dicaprylate and other diester oils; trihydroxymethylpropane triisostearate, triisostearate glyceryl, triisostearate Triglyceride of fatty acid, jojoba oil, trihydroxymethylpropane tri(2-ethylhexanoate), tri(2-ethylhexanoic acid)glyceryl, tri(caprylic/capric acid)glyceryl, tricaprylic acid glyceryl, tri(tridecyl) trimellitic acid ester, macadamia oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil and other triester oils; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, etc.
該等之中,從使成分(B)形成肌膚追隨性優異之被膜的觀點,較佳係單酯油、二酯油、三酯油,更佳係單酯油,特佳係對甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯、異壬酸異壬酯,最佳係至少含有對甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯。Among them, from the viewpoint of forming a film having excellent skin-adherence property with component (B), monoester oil, diester oil, triester oil are preferred, monoester oil is more preferred, octyl p-methoxycinnamate and isononyl isononanoate are particularly preferred, and at least octyl p-methoxycinnamate is the most preferred.
成分(D)係可使用1種或2種以上,從使成分(B)形成肌膚追隨性優異之被膜的觀點,含量於總組成中係0.1質量%以上、較佳係0.5質量%以上、更佳係1.5質量%以上,且係12質量%以下、較佳係8質量%以下、更佳係6質量%以下。又,成分(D)的含量於總組成中係0.1~12質量%、較佳係0.5~8質量%、更佳係1.5~6質量%。Component (D) may be used in one or more kinds. From the viewpoint of forming a film with excellent skin-adherence with component (B), the content is 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1.5% by mass or more, and is 12% by mass or less, preferably 8% by mass or less, more preferably 6% by mass or less. In addition, the content of component (D) is 0.1-12% by mass, preferably 0.5-8% by mass, more preferably 1.5-6% by mass in the total composition.
本發明中,成分(A)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(A)/[(A)+(D)],從藉由形成會撥開皮脂之被膜,而持續化妝感、即使時間經過後仍持續剛塗抹後的肌膚亮度、可獲得平整且均勻的完妝感、即使經過長時間仍可抑制因皮脂造成的油光、即使接觸到毛巾化妝肌膚仍不會脫妝的觀點,係0.3以上、較佳係0.36以上、更佳係0.42以上,且係0.95以下、較佳係0.8以下、更佳係0.72以下。又,成分(A)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(A)/[(A)+(D)]係0.3~0.95、較佳係0.36~0.8、更佳係0.42~0.72。In the present invention, the mass ratio (A)/[(A)+(D)] of component (A) to the total content of components (A) and (D) is 0.3 or more, preferably 0.36 or more, more preferably 0.42 or more, and is 0.95 or less, preferably 0.8 or less, more preferably 0.72 or less, from the viewpoints of forming a film that spreads sebum, maintaining the skin brightness just after application even after a period of time, achieving a smooth and uniform makeup finish, suppressing the oiliness caused by sebum even after a long period of time, and preventing the makeup from coming off even when it comes into contact with a towel-made makeup skin. The mass ratio of component (A) to the total content of components (A) and (D) is (A)/[(A)+(D)] in the range of 0.3 to 0.95, preferably 0.36 to 0.8, and more preferably 0.42 to 0.72.
本發明中,成分(B)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(B)/[(A)+(D)],從藉由形成會撥開皮脂之被膜,而化妝持續感、即使時間經過後仍持續剛塗抹後的肌膚亮度、可獲得平整且均勻的完妝感、即使經過長時間仍可抑制因皮脂造成的油光、即使接觸到毛巾化妝肌膚仍不會脫妝的觀點,較佳係0.05以上、更佳係0.1以上、特佳係0.2以上,且較佳係5以下、更佳係3以下、特佳係1.6以下。又,成分(B)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(B)/[(A)+(D)]較佳係0.05~5、更佳係0.1~3、特佳係0.2~1.6。In the present invention, the mass ratio (B)/[(A)+(D)] of the component (B) to the total content of the components (A) and (D) is preferably 0.05 or more, more preferably 0.1 or more, and particularly preferably 0.2 or more, and is preferably 5 or less, more preferably 3 or less, and particularly preferably 1.6 or less, from the viewpoints of forming a film that spreads sebum, thereby maintaining the makeup-lasting feeling, maintaining the skin brightness just after application even after a period of time, achieving a smooth and uniform makeup-finished feeling, suppressing the oiliness caused by sebum even after a long period of time, and preventing the makeup from coming off even when the makeup touches the skin with a towel. The mass ratio of component (B) to the total content of components (A) and (D) (B)/[(A)+(D)] is preferably 0.05 to 5, more preferably 0.1 to 3, and particularly preferably 0.2 to 1.6.
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料係可更進一步含有(E)非離子界面活性劑,因為在塗抹於肌膚後,化妝持續性優異、平整之完妝感,故較佳。 成分(E)的非離子界面活性劑係在通常化妝料所使用之前提下,其餘並無限制,可舉例如:山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯、甘油脂肪酸酯、聚甘油脂肪酸酯、丙二醇脂肪酸酯、聚乙二醇脂肪酸酯、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯烷基醚、聚氧乙烯山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯甘油脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯丙二醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯篦麻油、聚氧乙烯硬化篦麻油、聚氧乙烯硬化篦麻油脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯甾烷醇醚、聚氧乙烯植物固醇醚、聚氧乙烯植物固烷醇醚、聚氧乙烯植物固醇醚、烷基甘油醚改質聚矽氧、聚醚改質聚矽氧、聚氧伸烷基・烷基共改質聚矽氧、聚氧伸烷基・氟烷基共改質聚矽氧等。The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may further contain (E) a non-ionic surfactant, which is preferred because it provides excellent makeup durability and a smooth finish after being applied to the skin. The non-ionic surfactant of ingredient (E) is not limited to those generally used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include sorbitan fatty acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, propylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene propylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hardened castor oil, polyoxyethylene hardened castor oil fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene stanol ethers, polyoxyethylene phytosterol ethers, polyoxyethylene phytosterol ethers, alkyl glyceryl ether-modified polysilicone, polyether-modified polysilicone, polyoxyalkylene-alkyl co-modified polysilicone, polyoxyalkylene-fluoroalkyl co-modified polysilicone, and the like.
該等之中,從塗抹於肌膚後,化妝持續性優異、平整完妝感的觀點,較佳係含有聚醚改質聚矽氧。 聚醚改質聚矽氧係可使用例如:Toray Dow Corning公司製之SH3771M、SH3772M、SH3773M、SH3775M、SH3749、DC5200;或信越化學工業公司製之KF-6011、KF-6012、KF-6013、KF-6015、KF-6016、KF6017、KF-6004等市售物。Among them, polyether-modified silicone is preferred from the viewpoint of excellent makeup durability and smooth finish after application to the skin . Examples of polyether-modified silicone include SH3771M, SH3772M, SH3773M, SH3775M, SH3749, DC5200 manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd. or KF-6011, KF-6012, KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF6017, KF-6004 manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
非離子界面活性劑從塗抹於肌膚後,化妝持續性優異、平整完妝感的觀點,HLB值較佳係1以上且7以下、HLB值更佳係2以上且6以下。From the perspective of excellent makeup durability and smooth finish after application, the HLB value of non-ionic surfactants is preferably above 1 and below 7, and the HLB value is more preferably above 2 and below 6.
此處,HLB(親水性-親油性的均衡(Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance))係指界面活性劑的總分子量中所佔親水基部分的分子量,針對非離子界面活性劑係利用格里芬(Griffin)公式求取。 由2種以上非離子界面活性劑構成的混合界面活性劑之HLB,係依下述方式求取。混合界面活性劑的HLB係針對各非離子界面活性劑的HLB值根據調配比率相加算平均而得。Here, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) refers to the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group in the total molecular weight of the surfactant, and is calculated using the Griffin formula for non-ionic surfactants. The HLB of a mixed surfactant composed of two or more non-ionic surfactants is calculated as follows. The HLB of a mixed surfactant is obtained by adding the HLB values of each non-ionic surfactant according to the mixing ratio and averaging them.
混合HLB=Σ(HLBx×Wx)/ΣWx HLBx係表示非離子界面活性劑X的HLB值。 Wx係表示具有HLBx值的非離子界面活性劑X之重量(g)。Mixed HLB = Σ(HLBx×Wx)/ΣWx HLBx represents the HLB value of non-ionic surfactant X. Wx represents the weight (g) of non-ionic surfactant X with HLBx value.
成分(E)的非離子界面活性劑係可使用1種或2種以上,從塗抹於肌膚後,化妝持續性優異、平整完妝感的觀點,含量於總組成中較佳係0.1質量%以上、更佳係0.3質量%以上、特佳係1質量%以上,且較佳係8質量%以下、更佳係6質量%以下、特佳係4質量%以下。又,成分(E)的含量於總組成中較佳係0.1~8質量%、更佳係0.3~6質量%、特佳係1~4質量%。The nonionic surfactant of component (E) may be used in one or more kinds. From the viewpoint of excellent makeup durability and smooth finish after application to the skin, the content of the component (E) is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, and particularly preferably 1% by mass or more, and preferably 8% by mass or less, more preferably 6% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 4% by mass or less. In addition, the content of the component (E) is preferably 0.1-8% by mass, more preferably 0.3-6% by mass, and particularly preferably 1-4% by mass in the total composition.
本發明中,(F)水的含量從使用感優異的觀點,於總組成中較佳係1質量%以上、更佳係10質量%以上,且較佳係60質量%以下、更佳係40質量%以下。又,(F)水的含量於總組成中較佳係1~60質量%、更佳係10~40質量%。In the present invention, the content of (F) water is preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more, and preferably 60% by mass or less, more preferably 40% by mass or less in terms of excellent feeling in use. In addition, the content of (F) water is preferably 1-60% by mass, more preferably 10-40% by mass in the total composition.
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料係可更進一步含有著色顏料。 著色顏料係通常化妝料所使用者,可舉例如:氧化鈦、氧化鋅、氧化鈰、氧化鋁、氧化鐵黃、氧化鐵黑、氧化鐵紅、普魯士藍、群青、氧化鉻、氫氧化鉻等金屬氧化物;錳紫、鈦酸鈷等金屬錯合物;以及碳黑等無機顏料;紅色3號、紅色104號、紅色106號、紅色201號、紅色202號、紅色204號、紅色205號、紅色220號、紅色226號、紅色227號、紅色228號、紅色230號、紅色401號、紅色405號、紅色505號、橙色203號、橙色204號、橙色205號、黃色4號、黃色5號、黃色401號、藍色1號、藍色404號等合成有機顏料;β-胡蘿蔔素、焦糖、辣椒色素等天然有機色素等等,且可舉例如該等著色顏料的複合體、該等著色顏料與珠光顏料組合而成的複合顏料等。處理的珠光顏料係可舉例如:雲母、金雲母、滑石、二氧化矽、絹雲母、雲母、玻璃、高嶺土、氧氯化鉍、氧化鈰、硫酸鈣、硫酸鋇、硫酸鎂、板狀氧化鋁粉末等天然或合成的無機粉體。複合顏料的具體例係可舉例如:氧化鈦被覆雲母、氧化鐵被覆雲母、氧化鐵被覆雲母鈦、氧化鐵被覆合成金雲母、氧化鉻被覆雲母鈦、氧化鈦被覆玻璃粉末、氧化鐵被覆玻璃粉末、內含氧化鈦之玻璃粉末、內含氧化鐵之玻璃粉末等。 著色顏料較佳係從氧化鈦、氧化鐵黃、氧化鐵黑、氧化鐵紅中選擇之至少1種或2種以上,更佳係至少含有氧化鈦、氧化鐵黃、氧化鐵黑、氧化鐵紅。The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may further contain coloring pigments. Coloring pigments are commonly used in cosmetics, and include: metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, calcium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide yellow, iron oxide black, iron oxide red, Prussian blue, ultramarine, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, etc.; metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanium oxide; and inorganic pigments such as carbon black; Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228, Red No. 229, Red No. 230, Red No. 231, Red No. 232, Red No. 233, Red No. 234, Red No. 236, Red No. 237, Red No. 238, Red No. 239, Red No. 240, Red No. 241, Red No. 243, Red No. 244, Red No. 245, Red No. 246, Red No. 247, Red No. 248, Red No. 249, Red No. 250, Red No. 251, Red No. 252, Red No. 253, Red No. 254, Red No. 255, Red No. 256, Red No. 257, Red No. 258, Red No. 259, Red No. 261, Red No. 262, Red No. 263, Red No. 264, Red No. 265, Red No. 266, Red No. 267, Red No. 268, Red No. 269, Red No. 2 synthetic organic pigments such as blue No. 227, red No. 228, red No. 230, red No. 401, red No. 405, red No. 505, orange No. 203, orange No. 204, orange No. 205, yellow No. 4, yellow No. 5, yellow No. 401, blue No. 1, blue No. 404, etc.; natural organic pigments such as β-carotene, caramel, and chili pigment, etc., and for example, a composite of the coloring pigments, a composite pigment formed by combining the coloring pigments with pearlescent pigments, etc. The pearlescent pigments to be processed include natural or synthetic inorganic powders such as mica, phlogopite, talc, silica, sericite, mica, glass, kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, tantalum oxide, calcium sulfate, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, plate-shaped aluminum oxide powder, etc. Specific examples of composite pigments include titanium oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated titanium mica, iron oxide coated synthetic phlogopite, chromium oxide coated titanium mica, titanium oxide coated glass powder, iron oxide coated glass powder, glass powder containing titanium oxide, glass powder containing iron oxide, etc. The coloring pigment is preferably at least one or two selected from titanium oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, and red iron oxide, and more preferably contains at least titanium oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, and red iron oxide.
該等著色顏料係可直接使用,此外亦可使用經疏水化處理的著色顏料。 疏水化處理係可舉例如:聚矽氧處理、烷基處理、烷基矽烷處理、金屬皂處理、水溶性高分子處理、胺基酸處理、醯化胺基酸處理、卵磷脂處理、有機鈦酸鹽處理、多元醇處理、丙烯酸樹脂處理、甲基丙烯酸樹脂處理、胺甲酸乙酯樹脂處理、氟化合物處理等表面處理。其中,從對肌膚的附著佳、抑制二次附著性的觀點,較佳係含有聚矽氧處理、烷基矽烷處理、胺基酸處理、醯化胺基酸處理中之1種或2種以上,更佳係至少含有聚矽氧處理。 將著色顏料施行疏水化處理時,可利用通常方法實施。The coloring pigments can be used directly, and in addition, the coloring pigments treated with hydrophobicity can also be used. Hydrophobicity treatment includes, for example, polysilicone treatment, alkyl treatment, alkyl silane treatment, metal soap treatment, water-soluble polymer treatment, amino acid treatment, acylated amino acid treatment, lecithin treatment, organic titanium salt treatment, polyol treatment, acrylic resin treatment, methacrylic resin treatment, urethane resin treatment, fluorine compound treatment and other surface treatments. Among them, from the perspective of good adhesion to the skin and suppression of secondary adhesion, it is preferred to contain one or more of polysilicone treatment, alkyl silane treatment, amino acid treatment, acylated amino acid treatment, and more preferably at least polysilicone treatment. When the coloring pigment is subjected to hydrophobic treatment, it can be carried out by a conventional method.
著色顏料較佳係使用從經疏水化處理之氧化鐵黃、經疏水化處理之氧化鐵黑、經疏水化處理之氧化鐵紅中選擇之1種或2種以上與經疏水化處理之氧化鈦的組合,更佳係使用從經聚矽氧處理之氧化鐵黃、經聚矽氧處理之氧化鐵黑、經聚矽氧處理之氧化鐵紅中選擇之1種或2種以上與經聚矽氧處理之氧化鈦的組合。The coloring pigment is preferably a combination of one or more selected from hydrophobized iron oxide yellow, hydrophobized iron oxide black, and hydrophobized iron oxide red and hydrophobized titanium oxide, and more preferably a combination of one or more selected from polysilicone treated iron oxide yellow, polysilicone treated iron oxide black, and polysilicone treated iron oxide red and polysilicone treated titanium oxide.
著色顏料係可使用1種或2種以上,從肌膚依漂亮彩妝效果完妝感的觀點,含量於總組成中較佳係1質量%以上、更佳係3質量%以上、特佳係4質量%以上,且較佳係30質量%以下、更佳係25質量%以下、特佳係18質量%以下。又,著色顏料含量於總組成中較佳係1~30質量%、更佳係3~25質量%、特佳係4~18質量%。One or more coloring pigments may be used. From the perspective of achieving a beautiful makeup effect and a complete makeup feeling on the skin, the content of the coloring pigment in the total composition is preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 3% by mass or more, and particularly preferably 4% by mass or more, and preferably 30% by mass or less, more preferably 25% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 18% by mass or less. In addition, the content of the coloring pigment in the total composition is preferably 1-30% by mass, more preferably 3-25% by mass, and particularly preferably 4-18% by mass.
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料係除上述成分之外,亦可含有通常化妝料所使用的成分,例如:可含有上述除外的油成分、粉體、水溶性高分子、抗氧化劑、香料、色素、防腐劑、增黏劑、pH調節劑、血液循環促進劑、涼感劑、止汗劑、殺菌劑、皮膚激活劑、保濕劑、清涼劑等。The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may contain, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as oil ingredients other than the above-mentioned ingredients, powders, water-soluble polymers, antioxidants, fragrances, pigments, preservatives, thickeners, pH regulators, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, bactericides, skin activators, moisturizers, cooling agents, etc.
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料係依照通常方法便可製造。 本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料係可形成為液狀、乳液狀、糊膏狀、乳霜狀、凝膠狀等劑型,較佳係乳液狀、乳霜狀。The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be manufactured according to the usual method. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be formed into liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel and other dosage forms, preferably emulsion and cream.
再者,本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料係可適用為:飾底乳、粉底、遮瑕膏;腮紅、眼影、睫毛膏、眼線、眉毛彩妝產品、外護膜劑、口紅等彩妝化妝料;防曬乳液、防曬霜等紫外線防禦化妝料;護膚乳液、護膚霜、BB霜、美容液等護膚化妝料等。其中,較佳係彩妝化妝料,更佳係飾底乳、粉底液、粉底霜。 本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料係可僅單獨使用,亦可重疊塗抹粉底液或粉餅・白粉等粉體化妝料。Furthermore, the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to: primer, foundation, concealer; blush, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, eyebrow makeup products, outer protective film agent, lipstick and other makeup cosmetics; sunscreen lotion, sunscreen cream and other UV protection cosmetics; skin care lotion, skin care cream, BB cream, beauty essence and other skin care cosmetics. Among them, the preferred is the makeup cosmetic, and the more preferred is the primer, liquid foundation, and foundation cream. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be used alone, and can also be applied on top of the foundation or powdered cosmetics such as powder and white powder.
關於上述實施形態,本發明係更進一步揭示以下組成物。Regarding the above-mentioned embodiments, the present invention further discloses the following composition.
<1>一種油中水型乳化化妝料,係含有下述成分(A)、(B)、(C)及(D): (A)與角鯊烷不相溶的非揮發性聚矽氧油:0.1~25質量%、 (B)聚矽氧系被膜形成劑:2~20質量%、 (C)揮發性油、 (D)酯油:0.1~12質量%;其中, 成分(A)在25℃下的黏度係30~100000mPa・s; 成分(A)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(A)/[(A)+(D)]係0.3~0.95。<1> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic comprises the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D): (A) non-volatile silicone oil incompatible with squalane: 0.1-25% by mass (B) silicone film-forming agent: 2-20% by mass (C) volatile oil, (D) ester oil: 0.1-12% by mass; wherein the viscosity of component (A) at 25°C is 30-100000 mPa・s; the mass ratio of component (A) to the total content of components (A) and (D) is (A)/[(A)+(D)] 0.3-0.95.
<2>如上述<1>所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(A)較佳係至少含有二甲基聚矽氧烷。 <3>如上述<1>或<2>所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(A)在25℃下的黏度較佳係30~100000mPa・s、更佳係30~50000mPa・s、特佳係50~10000mPa・s、最佳係100~5000mPa・s、又最佳係150~3000mPa・s。 <4>如上述<1>~<3>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(A)的含量於總組成中,較佳係1質量%以上、更佳係2質量%以上,且較佳係20質量%以下、更佳係13質量%以下。<2> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in <1> above, wherein component (A) preferably contains at least dimethyl polysiloxane. <3> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in <1> or <2> above, wherein component (A) preferably has a viscosity at 25°C of 30 to 100,000 mPa·s, more preferably 30 to 50,000 mPa·s, particularly preferably 50 to 10,000 mPa·s, most preferably 100 to 5,000 mPa·s, and most preferably 150 to 3,000 mPa·s. <4> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <3> above, wherein the content of component (A) in the total composition is preferably 1 mass % or more, more preferably 2 mass % or more, and is preferably 20 mass % or less, more preferably 13 mass % or less.
<5>如上述<1>~<4>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(B)的被膜形成劑較佳係在25℃下呈固態狀。 <6>如上述<1>~<5>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(B)的被膜形成劑較佳係三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸、氟改質聚矽氧樹脂、丙烯酸聚矽氧樹脂,更佳係從三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸及氟改質聚矽氧樹脂中選擇之1種或2種以上。 <7>如上述<1>~<7>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(B)較佳係(B-1)三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸,更佳係[(CH3 )3 SiO1/2 ]a [SiO2 ]b (a係1~3、b係0.5~8)所示。 <8>如上述<1>~<7>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(B)較佳係(B-1)三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸,且質量平均分子量較佳係1000~10000、更佳係2000~9000、特佳係3000~6000。<5> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in any one of <1> to <4> above, wherein the film-forming agent of component (B) is preferably solid at 25°C. <6> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in any one of <1> to <5> above, wherein the film-forming agent of component (B) is preferably trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, fluorine-modified polysilicone resin, or acrylic polysilicone resin, and more preferably one or more selected from trimethylsiloxysilicic acid and fluorine-modified polysilicone resin. <7> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in any one of <1> to <7> above, wherein the component (B) is preferably (B-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, and more preferably is represented by [(CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ] a [SiO 2 ] b (a is 1 to 3, and b is 0.5 to 8). <8> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in any one of <1> to <7> above, wherein the component (B) is preferably (B-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, and the mass average molecular weight is preferably 1,000 to 10,000, more preferably 2,000 to 9,000, and particularly preferably 3,000 to 6,000.
<9>如上述<1>~<8>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(B)較佳係(B-2)氟改質聚矽氧樹脂,更佳係具有一般式(1): R1 a SiO(4-a)/2 (1) (式中,R1 係碳數1~8之烴基、苯基、羥基、或一般式-R2 -Rf(R2 係表示碳數2~6之2價伸烷基,Rf係表示 碳數1~8之全氟烷基),且從以羥基及一般式-R2 -Rf為必要的官能基中任意選擇;a係依平均數計為1.0≦a≦1.8) 所示構造,特佳係三氟丙基二甲基/三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸酯(Trifluoropropyldimethyl/Trimethylsiloxysilicate)。 <10>如上述<1>~<9>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(B)較佳係(B-3)丙烯酸聚矽氧樹脂,更佳係側鏈具有碳矽氧烷樹枝狀高分子構造的乙烯系聚合體、丙烯酸-聚矽氧系接枝共聚合體。<9> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in any one of <1> to <8> above, wherein component (B) is preferably (B-2) a fluorine-modified polysiloxane resin, more preferably having the structure represented by the general formula (1): R1aSiO ( 4-a)/2 (1) (wherein R1 is an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a hydroxyl group, or a group of the general formula -R2 -Rf ( R2 is a divalent alkyl group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and Rf is a perfluoroalkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms), and is arbitrarily selected from functional groups having a hydroxyl group and a group of the general formula -R2- Rf as essential functional groups; a is an average number such that 1.0≦a≦1.8), and particularly preferably trifluoropropyldimethyl/trimethylsiloxysilicate. <10> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in any one of <1> to <9> above, wherein component (B) is preferably (B-3) an acrylic polysilicone resin, and more preferably a vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendron-like polymer structure as a side chain, or an acrylic-polysilicone graft copolymer.
<11>如上述<1>~<10>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(B)的含量於總組成中,較佳係0.5質量%以上、更佳係1質量%以上、特佳係2質量%以上、最佳係2.3質量%以上、又最佳係2.6質量%以上,且較佳係20質量%以下、更佳係10質量%以下、特佳係8質量%以下。 <12>如上述<1>~<11>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(B)相對於成分(A)的質量比例(B)/(A),較佳係0.06以上、更佳係0.2以上、特佳係0.3以上,且較佳係10以下、更佳係4以下、特佳係2.4以下。<11> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <10> above, wherein the content of component (B) in the total composition is preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, particularly preferably 2% by mass or more, optimally 2.3% by mass or more, and optimally 2.6% by mass or more, and preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 8% by mass or less. <12> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <11> above, wherein the mass ratio (B)/(A) of component (B) to component (A) is preferably 0.06 or more, more preferably 0.2 or more, particularly preferably 0.3 or more, and preferably 10 or less, more preferably 4 or less, and particularly preferably 2.4 or less.
<13>如上述<1>~<12>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(C)的揮發性油較佳係揮發性聚矽氧油、揮發性烴油,更佳係含有揮發性聚矽氧油者,特佳係含有直鏈狀二甲基聚矽氧烷者。 <14>如上述<1>~<13>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(C)的含量於總組成中,較佳係5質量%以上、更佳係15質量%以上、特佳係25質量%以上,且較佳係50質量%以下、更佳係40質量%以下、特佳係35質量%以下。<13> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <12> above, wherein the volatile oil of component (C) is preferably a volatile silicone oil or a volatile hydrocarbon oil, more preferably one containing a volatile silicone oil, and particularly preferably one containing linear dimethyl polysiloxane. <14> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <13> above, wherein the content of component (C) in the total composition is preferably 5% by mass or more, more preferably 15% by mass or more, particularly preferably 25% by mass or more, and preferably 50% by mass or less, more preferably 40% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 35% by mass or less.
<15>如上述<1>~<14>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(D)的酯油較佳係非揮發性酯油,更佳係單酯油、二酯油、三酯油,特佳係單酯油,最佳係對甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯、異壬酸異壬酯,又最佳係至少含有對甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯者。 <16>如上述<1>~<15>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(D)的含量於總組成中,較佳係0.5質量%以上、更佳係1.5質量%以上,且較佳係8質量%以下、更佳係6質量%以下。 <17>如上述<1>~<16>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(A)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(A)/[(A)+(D)],較佳係0.36以上、更佳係0.42以上,且較佳係0.8以下、更佳係0.72以下。 <18>如上述<1>~<17>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(B)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(B)/[(A)+(D)],較佳係0.05以上、更佳係0.1以上、特佳係0.2以上,且較佳係5以下、更佳係3以下、特佳係1.6以下。<15> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <14> above, wherein the ester oil of component (D) is preferably a non-volatile ester oil, more preferably a monoester oil, a diester oil, or a triester oil, particularly preferably a monoester oil, and most preferably octyl p-methoxycinnamate or isononyl isononanoate, and most preferably at least octyl p-methoxycinnamate. <16> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <15> above, wherein the content of component (D) in the total composition is preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1.5% by mass or more, and preferably 8% by mass or less, more preferably 6% by mass or less. <17> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <16> above, wherein the mass ratio (A)/[(A)+(D)] of component (A) to the total content of components (A) and (D) is preferably 0.36 or more, more preferably 0.42 or more, and preferably 0.8 or less, more preferably 0.72 or less. <18> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <17> above, wherein the mass ratio (B)/[(A)+(D)] of component (B) to the total content of components (A) and (D) is preferably 0.05 or more, more preferably 0.1 or more, particularly preferably 0.2 or more, and preferably 5 or less, more preferably 3 or less, particularly preferably 1.6 or less.
<19>如上述<1>~<18>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其較佳係更進一步含有(E)非離子界面活性劑。 <20>如上述<19>所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(E)的非離子界面活性劑較佳係含有聚醚改質聚矽氧。 <21>如上述<19>或<20>所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(E)的非離子界面活性劑值較佳係HLB值為1以上且7以下,HLB值更佳係2以上且6以下。 <22>如上述<19>~<21>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(E)的含量於總組成中,較佳係0.1質量%以上、更佳係0.3質量%以上、特佳係1質量%以上,且較佳係8質量%以下、更佳係6質量%以下、特佳係4質量%以下。 <23>如上述<1>~<22>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,(F)水的含量於總組成中,較佳係1質量%以上、更佳係10質量%以上,且較佳係60質量%以下、更佳係40質量%以下。<19> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <18> above preferably further contains (E) a non-ionic surfactant. <20> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in <19> above, wherein the non-ionic surfactant of component (E) preferably contains polyether-modified polysilicone. <21> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in <19> or <20> above, wherein the non-ionic surfactant of component (E) preferably has an HLB value of 1 or more and 7 or less, and more preferably has an HLB value of 2 or more and 6 or less. <22> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <19> to <21> above, wherein the content of component (E) in the total composition is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, particularly preferably 1% by mass or more, and preferably 8% by mass or less, more preferably 6% by mass or less, particularly preferably 4% by mass or less. <23> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <22> above, wherein the content of (F) water in the total composition is preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more, and preferably 60% by mass or less, more preferably 40% by mass or less.
<24>如上述<1>~<23>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(A)在25℃下的黏度較佳係100~50000mPa・s。 <25>如上述<1>~<24>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其較佳係更進一步含有著色顏料,更佳係含有經疏水化處理的著色顏料。<24> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <23> above, wherein the viscosity of component (A) at 25°C is preferably 100 to 50,000 mPa·s. <25> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <24> above, preferably further contains a coloring pigment, and more preferably contains a coloring pigment that has been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
<26>如上述<1>~<24>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(A)的含量於總組成中較佳係1~20質量%,成分(B)的含量於總組成中較佳係2~20質量%,成分(D)的含量於總組成中較佳係0.5~8質量%,成分(A)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(A)/[(A)+(D)]較佳係0.36~0.8。 <26>如上述<1>~<25>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(A)的含量於總組成中較佳係2~13質量%,成分(B)的含量於總組成中較佳係2~8質量%,成分(D)的含量於總組成中較佳係1.5~6質量%,成分(A)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(A)/[(A)+(D)]較佳係0.42~0.72。<26> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <24> above, wherein the content of component (A) is preferably 1-20% by mass in the total composition, the content of component (B) is preferably 2-20% by mass in the total composition, the content of component (D) is preferably 0.5-8% by mass in the total composition, and the mass ratio of component (A) to the total content of components (A) and (D) (A)/[(A)+(D)] is preferably 0.36-0.8. <26> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <25>, wherein the content of component (A) is preferably 2-13% by mass in the total composition, the content of component (B) is preferably 2-8% by mass in the total composition, the content of component (D) is preferably 1.5-6% by mass in the total composition, and the mass ratio of component (A) to the total content of components (A) and (D) (A)/[(A)+(D)] is preferably 0.42-0.72.
<27>如上述<1>~<26>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(A)的含量於總組成中較佳係0.1~25質量%,成分(B)的含量於總組成中較佳係2~20質量%,成分(D)的含量於總組成中較佳係0.1~12質量%,成分(B)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(B)/[(A)+(D)]較佳係0.05~5。 <28>如上述<1>~<27>中任一項所記載的油中水型乳化化妝料,其中,成分(A)的含量於總組成中較佳係2~13質量%,成分(B)的含量於總組成中較佳係2~8質量%,成分(D)的含量於總組成中較佳係1.5~6質量%,成分(B)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(B)/[(A)+(D)]較佳係0.2~1.6。<27> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic described in any one of <1> to <26> above, wherein the content of component (A) is preferably 0.1-25% by mass in the total composition, the content of component (B) is preferably 2-20% by mass in the total composition, the content of component (D) is preferably 0.1-12% by mass in the total composition, and the mass ratio of component (B) to the total content of components (A) and (D) (B)/[(A)+(D)] is preferably 0.05-5. <28> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <27>, wherein the content of component (A) is preferably 2-13% by mass in the total composition, the content of component (B) is preferably 2-8% by mass in the total composition, the content of component (D) is preferably 1.5-6% by mass in the total composition, and the mass ratio of component (B) to the total content of components (A) and (D) (B)/[(A)+(D)] is preferably 0.2-1.6.
<29>一種油中水型乳化化妝料,係將下述成分(A)、(B)、(C)及(D),依成分(A)相對於成分(A)與(D)之合計含量的質量比例(A)/[(A)+(D)]成為0.3~0.95的方式調配: (A)在25℃下的黏度為30~100000mPa・s、且與角鯊烷不相溶的非揮發性聚矽氧油:0.1~25質量%、 (B)聚矽氧系被膜形成劑:2~20質量%、 (C)揮發性油、 (D)酯油:0.1~12質量% [實施例]<29> An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic, comprising the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D), wherein the mass ratio (A)/[(A)+(D)] of the component (A) to the total content of the components (A) and (D) is 0.3-0.95: (A) non-volatile silicone oil having a viscosity of 30-100000 mPa·s at 25°C and incompatible with squalane: 0.1-25 mass%, (B) silicone film-forming agent: 2-20 mass%, (C) volatile oil, (D) ester oil: 0.1-12 mass% [Example]
[實施例1~10、比較例1~3] 製造表1所示組成的油中水型乳化化妝料,塗抹於肌膚,針對經過8小時後因皮脂造成的油光程度、對毛巾的二次附著性程度、肌膚的亮度、以及肌膚的均勻度進行評價。結果合併記於表1。 另外,將實施例所使用的二甲基聚矽氧烷,與角鯊烷依質量比1:1混合,拿在手上,依晃動次數120次/分、晃動幅度30cm,進行30秒鐘攪拌混合後,進一步利用旋渦混合器攪拌30秒鐘,靜置1分鐘時的狀態(是否與角鯊烷相溶)係如表2所示。[Examples 1 to 10, Comparative Examples 1 to 3] An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared and applied to the skin. The degree of oiliness caused by sebum, the degree of secondary adhesion to a towel, the brightness of the skin, and the uniformity of the skin were evaluated after 8 hours. The results are summarized in Table 1. In addition, the dimethyl polysiloxane used in the example was mixed with squalane at a mass ratio of 1:1, and the mixture was mixed in the hand at a shaking frequency of 120 times/min and a shaking amplitude of 30 cm for 30 seconds, and then further stirred for 30 seconds using a vortex mixer. The state (whether it is compatible with squalane) when it was left to stand for 1 minute is shown in Table 2.
(製造方法) 將粉體相成分施行混合粉碎,添加於另行混合的油相成分中,利用分散機進行分散。然後,添加水相成分,利用分散機施行分散後,再利用均質攪拌機施行攪拌,藉此獲得油中水型乳化化妝料(粉底)。(Manufacturing method) The powder phase components are mixed and crushed, added to the separately mixed oil phase components, and dispersed using a disperser. Then, the water phase components are added, dispersed using a disperser, and then stirred using a homogenizer to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic (foundation).
(評價方法) (1)塗抹於肌膚上,經過8小時後因皮脂造成的油光程度: 由5位專業官能檢查員將各粉底塗抹於肌膚上,塗抹後,針對經過8小時後因皮脂造成的油光難易度,依照以下基準施行官能評價。結果係採5位的合計分數。 5:完全沒有因皮脂造成的油光。 4:沒有因皮脂造成的油光。 3:不太有因皮脂造成的油光。 2:略有因皮脂造成的油光。 1:有因皮脂造成的油光。(Evaluation method) (1) Degree of oiliness caused by sebum after 8 hours of application: Five professional sensory inspectors applied each foundation to the skin and evaluated the degree of oiliness caused by sebum after 8 hours according to the following criteria. The result is a total score of 5 points. 5: No oiliness caused by sebum at all. 4: No oiliness caused by sebum. 3: Not much oiliness caused by sebum. 2: Slight oiliness caused by sebum. 1: Oiliness caused by sebum.
(2)塗抹於肌膚上,經過8小時後對毛巾的二次附著性程度: 由5位專業官能檢查員將各粉底塗抹於肌膚上,塗抹後,經過8小時後,針對綿製毛巾押抵於肌膚時的粉底顏色轉移程度,依照以下基準施行官能評價。結果係採5位的合計分數。 5:即使毛巾押抵於塗抹後的肌膚上,仍完全沒有粉底附著。 4:即使毛巾押抵於塗抹後的肌膚上,仍沒有粉底附著。 3:即使毛巾押抵於塗抹後的肌膚上,仍不太有粉底附著。 2:毛巾押抵於塗抹後的肌膚上時,略有粉底附著。 1:毛巾押抵於塗抹後的肌膚上時,有粉底附著。(2) Secondary adhesion to a towel after 8 hours of application: Five professional sensory inspectors applied each foundation to the skin and conducted sensory evaluations based on the following criteria for the degree of foundation color transfer when a cotton towel was pressed against the skin 8 hours after application. The result was the total score of the five digits. 5: Even when the towel was pressed against the skin after application, there was no foundation adhesion at all. 4: Even when the towel was pressed against the skin after application, there was no foundation adhesion. 3: Even when the towel was pressed against the skin after application, there was little foundation adhesion. 2: When the towel was pressed against the skin after application, there was a slight amount of foundation adhesion. 1: When the towel is pressed against the skin after application, the foundation adheres.
(3)塗抹於肌膚上,經過8小時後的肌膚亮度: 由5位專業官能檢查員將各粉底塗抹於肌膚上,塗抹後,針對經過8小時後的化妝肌膚亮度,依照以下基準施行官能評價。結果係採5位的合計分數。 5:化妝肌膚看起來明亮。 4:化妝肌膚看起來略明亮。 3:化妝肌膚看起來不太明亮。 2:化妝肌膚看起來不明亮。 1:化妝肌膚看起來完全不明亮。(3) Skin brightness after 8 hours of application: Five professional sensory inspectors applied each foundation to the skin and evaluated the brightness of the makeup skin 8 hours later according to the following criteria. The result is the total score of the five digits. 5: The makeup skin looks brighter. 4: The makeup skin looks slightly brighter. 3: The makeup skin does not look too bright. 2: The makeup skin does not look brighter. 1: The makeup skin does not look brighter at all.
(4)塗抹於肌膚上,經過8小時後的肌膚均勻度: 由5位專業官能檢查員將各粉底塗抹於肌膚上,塗抹後,針對經過8小時後的化妝肌膚均勻度,依照以下基準施行官能評價。結果係採5位的合計分數。 5:化妝肌膚看起來均勻。 4:化妝肌膚看起來略均勻。 3:化妝肌膚看起來不太均勻。 2:化妝肌膚看起來不均勻。 1:化妝肌膚看起來完全不均勻。(4) Skin evenness after 8 hours of application: Five professional sensory inspectors applied each foundation to the skin and evaluated the evenness of the makeup on the skin 8 hours after application according to the following criteria. The result is the total score of the five inspectors. 5: The makeup on the skin looks even. 4: The makeup on the skin looks slightly even. 3: The makeup on the skin looks not very even. 2: The makeup on the skin looks uneven. 1: The makeup on the skin looks completely uneven.
[表1]
[表2]
[實施例11~14] 與實施例1~10同樣地,製造表3所示組成的油中水型乳化化妝料(粉底)。 所獲得粉底均係即使塗抹於肌膚上經過8小時後,仍沒有因皮脂造成的油光,即使押抵毛巾仍沒有粉底附著,且肌膚看起來明亮、均勻。[Examples 11 to 14] Similar to Examples 1 to 10, water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics (foundations) of the composition shown in Table 3 were prepared. The obtained foundations had no oily sheen due to sebum even after 8 hours of application on the skin, no foundation adhered even when pressed against a towel, and the skin looked bright and even.
[表3]
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| WO2012165235A1 (en) * | 2011-05-30 | 2012-12-06 | 東レ・ダウコーニング株式会社 | Novel organopolysiloxane elastomer and use therefor |
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| JP6369888B2 (en) * | 2011-12-27 | 2018-08-08 | 東レ・ダウコーニング株式会社 | Novel liquid organopolysiloxane and use thereof |
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| JP2019006712A (en) * | 2017-06-26 | 2019-01-17 | 御木本製薬株式会社 | Water-in-oil type emulsified composition |
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