TWI352595B - Cosmetic and cosmeceutical compositions for restor - Google Patents
Cosmetic and cosmeceutical compositions for restor Download PDFInfo
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- TWI352595B TWI352595B TW095104795A TW95104795A TWI352595B TW I352595 B TWI352595 B TW I352595B TW 095104795 A TW095104795 A TW 095104795A TW 95104795 A TW95104795 A TW 95104795A TW I352595 B TWI352595 B TW I352595B
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- Taiwan
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- skin
- acid
- calcium
- weight
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 190
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title description 13
- -1 fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 39
- 150000002500 ions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 36
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 35
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 28
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 claims description 26
- BHPQYMZQTOCNFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium cation Chemical compound [Ca+2] BHPQYMZQTOCNFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 24
- 229910001424 calcium ion Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 24
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 16
- UXVMQQNJUSDDNG-UHFFFAOYSA-L Calcium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].[Cl-].[Ca+2] UXVMQQNJUSDDNG-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000001110 calcium chloride Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 229910001628 calcium chloride Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 14
- 108010010803 Gelatin Proteins 0.000 claims description 13
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000008273 gelatin Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229920000159 gelatin Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 235000019322 gelatine Nutrition 0.000 claims description 12
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- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims description 10
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
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- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
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- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 4
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- JLVVSXFLKOJNIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Magnesium ion Chemical compound [Mg+2] JLVVSXFLKOJNIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- 239000001103 potassium chloride Substances 0.000 claims description 3
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- NTTOTNSKUYCDAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N potassium hydride Chemical compound [KH] NTTOTNSKUYCDAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910000105 potassium hydride Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 241001474374 Blennius Species 0.000 claims description 2
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- 235000010417 guar gum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000665 guar gum Substances 0.000 claims description 2
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- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical compound [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims 4
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- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims 2
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 claims 2
- 239000013589 supplement Substances 0.000 claims 2
- FKNQFGJONOIPTF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sodium cation Chemical compound [Na+] FKNQFGJONOIPTF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 claims 1
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- 239000000118 hair dye Substances 0.000 claims 1
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- QENHCSSJTJWZAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium sulfide Chemical compound [Mg+2].[S-2] QENHCSSJTJWZAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
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- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- UFTQLBVSSQWOKD-UHFFFAOYSA-N tellanylidenecalcium Chemical compound [Te]=[Ca] UFTQLBVSSQWOKD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 144
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- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 22
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 22
- OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium Chemical compound [Ca] OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 21
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- 229910052791 calcium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 21
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Description
1352595 九、發明說明: 【發明所屬之技術領域】 本發明提供對暴露於環境元素及/或病理情況之皮膚回 復皮膚屏蔽功能之組合物、套件及方法。 【先前技術】 皮膚具有許多功能,但是其主要功能為作為保護層或屏 蔽。皮膚對陸地動物之最重要角色為對富水内部器官隔離 乾燥環境。皮膚之此種皮膚屏蔽功能在於稱為角質層之最 上薄層(人類為約1 0-20微米)。此層之不透水力較其他活體 器官膜高 1000 倍。Potts & Francoeur (1991) j. invest. Dermatol. 96; 495-499 ° 角質層係由兩種成分組成,即富蛋白質非活細胞與細胞 間脂質域。Elias et al. (1993) Curr. 〇pin Dermat〇1 23 1 -237。細胞間域中之脂質分子形成雙層結構。不透水力 係由脂質分子之形態及處理細胞之次序所造成。Denda et ai. ( 1 994) Arch. Dermatol. Res. 2 86 ·· 4 1 _46。因為此特定之 磚與/尼」結構’角質層顯示高不透水力。 稱為表皮之最上層皮膚主要由角質形成細胞構成。表皮 為自動更換之固定狀態。在下層,角質形成細胞幹細胞分 裂成子細胞’其向外移位,而且透過連續重疊層分化而進 入角質層。然後’角質形成細胞死亡(細胞凋亡)且其細胞器 與胞質在分化之最終過程期間消失。細胞間脂質主要在終 止分化期間由稱為板狀體之含脂質粒之胞吐產生。分泌之 脂質散佈於細胞間域且形成雙層結構。同上之Enas et al_ 108679.doc 1352595 (1993)。 、離子信號在表皮屏蔽功能之自身穩定機構中扮演重要角 ee et al. (i992) J. Clin. Invest. 89 : 530-538 〇 ^ jl f .·:丨膚中:鈣係以高濃度侷限於恰在角質層下方之表皮粒層 ’即最上層表皮。相反地,斜濃度在棘狀層最高,即中 • 間表皮,而且在粒層最低。 …鈣為全域信使,即使是在簡單有機體或植物中。其離子 • 丨仫與雙倍電荷之組合可使其加緊對受體之結合而排除其 他離子,如鎂,導致強而特定之結合。Caraf〇n & (1985) The Calcium Signal. Sci· Am· 25 3 : 70-78。此特定性 使細胞形成獲取鈣信號之特殊受體。對於人體之許多部 份’ Ca2+經常以類似cAMp之方式作為第二信使。在皮膚 中辦7 (在細胞〉谷負中)對細胞提供細胞内或細胞外信號。 細胞内外信號可彼此連接,但是亦可分別地作用。已發現 細胞内Ca2 +隨細胞外Ca2 +提高而增加。其隱含增加之細胞内 φ Ca2+為激發角貧形成細胞分化之實際信號。Tanojo &
Maibach (1999) in Percutaneous Absorption, 3rd Ed., Bronaugh & Maibach,ed_, Marcel Dekker, NY, pp. 939-950 o 因為Ca2+無法如其他第二信使分子新陳代謝,細胞透過 許多結合及特殊化突出蛋白質加緊調節分子内含量。 Clapham (1995) Cell 80 : 25 9-2 68。細胞内空間中之鈣濃度 (通常為〜1 .5 mM)較細胞溶質中(〜0.1 μΜ)高四階。在可激動 細胞中,例如肌肉細胞,必須密切地調節細胞外鈣濃度以 將其保持在〜1 ·5 mM之正常含量,使得其不會意外地激發肌 I08679.doc 1352595 肉收縮’神經博動及血液凝固。在其他細胞中,包括角質 形成細胞’細胞外含量係與細胞内濃度維持平衡。 如上所述,在角質形成細胞之細胞域内外之間有需要加 緊調節之高鈣梯度。此外,在表皮内存在鈣梯度,上表皮 之 Ca2 量向於下表皮。Menon et al. (1985) J. jnvest Dematol. 102 : 789-795。Ca2+濃度自基底區域至角質層穩 定地增加’其他離子則否。Forslind et al. (1995) Scanning
Microsc· 9 : 1〇ΐι·1026。此梯度在關於形成不正常屏蔽功 月b之不正韦皮膚中未觀察到’如牛皮癖。Menon & Elias (1991) Arch. Dermat〇l· 127 : 57-63。已報告以丙酮處理或 膠帶剝除瓦解皮膚屏蔽耗盡上表皮之Ca2+,造成失去Ca2 + 梯度。其乃由於導致增加之Ca2 +被動損失之加速水移轉至 角質層中且通過所造成。Mao-Qiang et al. (1997) Exp Dermatol. 6 : 36-40。 總之’妈離子在皮膚屏蔽之自身穩定中扮演重要角色。 屏蔽變化改變皮膚中之鈣離子梯度且導致屏蔽修補過程。 嚴重之變化可能導致高程度鈣信號,其可誘發由增加皮膚 成分或信使之合成至發炎反應之各種過程之活化。因此存 在用於活化屏蔽修補過程’以對受環境元素或病理情況負 面地影響之皮膚回復正常屏蔽功能之組合物及方法之需 求0 【發明内容】 本發明提供對暴露於環境元素及/或病理情況之皮膚回 復皮膚屏蔽功能之組合物、套件及方法,其通常將如弼離 I08679.doc β 1352595 子及/或鎖離子之二價陽離子包括於生理 中。在某些具體實施例中,為了維 又" 、皮膚屏如之自身籍定, 使二價陽離子與如鈉及鉀離子之單 胃陽綠子以適當[卜彳丨〆 持平衡。此組合物、套件及方法可 ’、 及· f “ * 乍為用於改良皮膚情況, 及預防或治療皮膚疾病與皮膚病況之化妝 或醫藥品。 樂用化妝。口 【實施方式】 —雖然在此顯示及敘述本發明之較佳具體實施例,此具體 =施=以;r例之方式提供對熟悉此技藝者為顯而易知 ::ΓΤ藝者可進行各種變化'改變及替代而不背離 方案可用於實行本發明。其意圖在㈣ ,^ DO ΜΜ卜甲5月專利範圍界定 本如月之範圍,因而涵蓋這 範圍内之方法與結構。-I專㈣圍與其等致物之 .本如月提供用於回復皮膚屏敍功能之釗新組合物及方 法。本發明係基於約離子調節皮膚屏蔽功能之角色之 了解,及為了维括由_ κ料 土 '准持皮膚屏敝自身穩定之單價與二價離子 之複雜平衡。 、 的nt皮膚中相較於鈉、鉀與鎂之限制量造成皮膚細 二雜:皿控兩低含量。然而,發明人相信對皮膚僅應用 約離子不僅益用t‘ ’’’、’、有D ,因為在監控鈣中,皮膚亦考量豆 他離子之存在八 僅應用南#5之情形。皮膚取其過量且激 韌負面口饋以回應,如此造成無法預測之負面影響。因此, 《月人相仏應用如辦或鎂離子之二價離子必須與其他成分 108679.doc 1352595 平衡以回復皮膚屏蔽功能。 依照本發明’提供用於護膚之組合物及方法,其包括預 防或治療由於皮膚屏蔽功能受損造成之不正常皮膚情況, 如脫水及發炎。不受特定理論或作用機構限制,據作此组 合物經由以下對皮膚施加其有益效果·· 〇維持皮膚中主要 離子,特毅單價與1陽離子間之平衡;丨相復皮膚中 主要離子,特別是單價與二價陽離子間之平衡;及叫回復 且维持受離子平衡影響之皮膚細胞之生長過程。 藉由回復皮膚中主要離子之平衡,可達成各種有益效 果。因為皮膚接受來自環境及飲食變化之各種刺激,其 4藉由调整皮膚屏蔽品質而適應。在環境變乾燥時,皮膚 可能產生硬屏蔽以防止高程度之水損失。硬屏蔽後來可造 成粗及鈍化之皮膚。感興趣的是,皮膚使用約離子間接監 測環境乾燥度。如果乾燥度因其他原因而加劇,如皮膚病 或二度損傷/刺激,則離子平衡長期偏移,激發品質不良之 屏蔽功能之連續形成。因此,離子平衡之回復誘發具有最 適屏蔽供能正常皮膚屏蔽層之再生。正常皮膚屏蔽之形成 亦確保皮膚之其他細胞及成分之健康生長,如淋巴細胞及 角質形成細胞,因而達成最適之皮膚情況。 在本發明之-個態樣中,提供一種護膚用組合物。在一 個具體實施例中’組合物包含在生理上可接受介質中按組 :物總重里。十為約〇 〇1·8% W/从之二價鈣離子及/或二價鎂 離子視㈤要地’二價辦離子對二價鎮離子之比例範圍為 5. 1至卜 5’3’ 1至1:3,2: 1至 1:2,或3:2 至 2:3。 I08679.doc •10. 丄妁2595 了接又"質較佳為化妝上或醫藥 佳為,钙雜;尨、g 了接又載劑。較 巧鈣雔子係以氯化鈣之形式提供 鎂之形式提供。 ㈣子係以乳化 :另-個具體實施財’組合物包含在生理上可接受介 比例為】5:U1:20之二價約離子及單價離子,立中 —價鈣離子之量相對組合物總重量為約〇·(Π-8重量%β視需 要地’二價妈離子對單價離子之比例範圍為8:ι至Η0, 6:1 至 l:3,4:a1:5’2:i1:3^i:ai 2。 較佳為,單價離子為氣化鋼、氯化卸或演化卸形式之納或 卸離子。 依照這些具體實施例’為了維持皮膚屏蔽中之離子平衡 且避免激發負面回饋以回應,在組合物中係以適當之比例 組合二價陽離子(例如㈣鎂陽離子)與單價⑮離子(例如納 或鉀陽離子)。二價陽離子亦可組合其他主要皮膚成分,如 膽固醇、脂肪酸與胺基酸或其等致物。 在:個特定具體實施例中’二價鈣或鎖離子較佳為在水 性液態介質中組合單價鈉與鉀。水性液態介質組成水相, 其可為組合物之連續相。 水相可本質上包括水;其亦可包含水及與水互溶溶劑之 混合物(在25。(:為大於50重量%之水互溶力),例如含!至5 個碳原子之低碳單醇,如乙醇或異丙醇,含2至8個碳原子 之二醇,如丙二醇、乙二醇、丨,3_ 丁二醇、或二丙二醇, C3-C4酮與C2-C4齡,及甘油。 水相(水及視需要之與水互溶溶劑)可以相對組合物總重 108679.doc 1352595 量範圍為1至98重量%,視需要為3%至96%,4〇%至95%, 50%至90%,60%至90%,或7〇%至85%之含量存在。 在水性液態介質中,二價鈣離子之量較佳為約, 視需要為約0.5-5%,或視需要為約13%。二價鈣離子較佳 為藉由對水相添加CaCl2而提供。 此水性調配物可作為皮膚爽膚劑、濕潤劑或保濕劑,以
對暴路於環境元素或病理情況或受損之皮膚促進皮膚屏蔽 修補及回復正常皮膚屏蔽功能。 視需要地,本發明之組合物為乳液或乳霜調配物之形 式。其可含乳化界面活性劑,特別是以相對組合物總重量 範圍為2至30重量%,而且較佳為5%至15%之比例存在。這 些界面活性劑可選自陰離子及非離子界面活性劑。對於界 面活性劑之性質及功能(乳化),可參考文件”Encyci〇pedia of Chemical Technology,Kirk-〇thmer",第 22卷,第 333_432
頁’第3版,㈣,Wiley,對於陰離子及非離子界面活性劑, 特別是該參考資料之第347-377頁。
較佳地用於本發明组合物夕R 4私λι ,且α物之界面活性劑係選自:非離子 界面活性劑:月旨肪酸’月旨肪醇’聚乙氧化或聚乙二醇化脂 肪醇,如聚乙氧化硬脂醇或錄壤基硬脂醇,蔗糖之脂肪酸 醋’烷基葡萄糖酯,特別是桉其諂运 疋^丨q沉基萄糖之聚氧伸乙基 化月曰肪酸S曰’及其混合物;声離了 g 、工li ^雕子界面活性劑:經胺、氨 水或驗鹽中和之C)6_C3〇脂肪酸,及豆嗝入 Α A + 及兵此合物。較佳為使用 可得到水包油或水包蠟乳液之界面活性劑。
在乳霜调配物中’二價與離早令曰私A 貝的離子之置較佳為約0.01-8¾,視 108679.doc 1352595 需要為約0.05-0.5%,或視需要為約01_〇.3。/(^二價鈣離子 較佳為藉由對乳液加入CaCl2而提供。 視需要地,本發明之組合物為水性凝膠或水凝膠調配物 之形式。水凝膠調配物包含增稠劑以將液態溶液增稠。增 稍劑之實例包括但不限於碳合物、纖維素為主材料、膠、 海藻素、瓜爾膠、果膠、鹿角菜苷、明膠、礦物性或經改 質礦物性增稠劑 '聚乙二醇與多醇 '聚丙烯醢胺、及其他 之聚合增稠劑◊較佳為使用對組合物賦與安定性及最適流 動特性之增稠劑。 在水凝膠調配物中,二價鈣離子之量較佳為約〇〇1_8〇/〇, 視需要為約0.05-0.5%,或視需要為約o.i — oj%。二價約離 子較佳為藉由對乳液加入CaCl2而提供。 本發明之組合物可進一步包含有效量之生理上可接受抗 氧化劑’其選自由丁基化對甲酚、丁基化氫醌一甲醚與生 月酴組成之群組。抗氧化劑可以全部組合物之〇 · 〇 〇 5 _ 5重量 %之量存在。 本發明之組合物可進一步包含天然或改質胺基酸,如精 胺酸、胱胺酸、麩胺酸、組胺.酸、異白胺酸、白胺酸、離 fe酸、曱硫胺酸、苯基丙胺酸、蘇胺酸、色胺酸、酷胺酸、 與綠胺酸。胺基酸可以全部組合物之0.002_6重量%之量存 在。 本發明之組合物可進_步包含天然或改質固醇化合物, 如膽固醇及植物固醇(亦稱為植物崔醇),如豆留醇、菜油固 醇、β-毅甾醇、角固醇(chalinosterol)、穿貝海綿甾醇 108679.doc -13- 1352595 (cn〇naster〇i)、蕓苔留醇、α波菜留醇胡蘿葡苦 (danc〇ster〇1)、24-脫氫膽固醇(desm〇ster〇1) ' 與多孔留醇 / (P〇riferaSter〇1)。固醇可以全部組合物之0·00i -5重量%之量 - 存在。 本發明之組合物可進—步包含天然或改質膠蛋白、絲蛋 白或大豆蛋白。蛋白可以全部組合物之〇〇卜i 〇重量%之量 存在。 # 本發明之組合物較佳為調配成局部應用於角蛋白材料, 如皮膚、毛髮、睫毛、或指甲。其可為正常用於此型應用 之任何表現形式,特別是水性或油性溶液、水包油或油包 水乳液、聚石夕氧乳液、微乳液或奈米乳液、水性或油性凝 膠或液體、漿狀或固態水合產物之形式。 本發明通常可為流體g I曰 ^ 巧瓜體且可具有白色或有色乳霜、軟膏、 乳汁、洗劑、聚液、% ^ 聚科、慕斯、或凝膠之外觀。其可視 需要以氣溶膠、貼片咨格士4 ’ 巧A私末之形式局部地應用於皮膚上。 其亦可為固態形式,你丨枝jny Ψ 飞例如棒形式。其可作為皮膚用保養產 品及/或化妝產品使用。式去 . 次者’其可調配成洗髮精或潤絲精。 在已知方式中,本發明3«·彡。a 知月之經合物亦可含化妝品常用之添 加劑及佐劑,如親水性或鞀 、 1次親知性膠化劑、防腐劑、抗氧化 劑、溶劑、香料、填料、海祖 願枓 '臭味吸收劑、與染料。這 些各種添加劑及佐香丨之甚& , θ ^之置為經考量習知上用於此領域之 罝’而且範圍為例如組合物蛐击θ 口物,,息重!之0.01 %至20%。視其本 性而定,這些添加劑及佐劑可弓I入脂肪相中或水性中Γ 在本發明之組合物為乳液時,脂肪相相對組合物總重量 108679.doc 1352595 之比例有利地範圍為2至80重量 至里/。而且較佳為5至5〇重量 %。包括於乳液形式組合物中 ^ Y之知肪物質、乳化劑與共乳 化劑係選自經考量此領域習知 上過配者。礼化劑與共乳化 劑較佳為以相對組合物總重量範圍為〇·3至3〇重量。A,而且 較佳為0.5至20重量%之比例存在於組合物中。 本發明之例示脂肪物質包括油,而且特別是礦物油(液態 石油膠)、植物來源油(酪梨油、月見草油、紅花油、大豆油、
小麥胚芽油、杏仁核油)、動物來源油(羊毛脂)、合成油(全 氫1烯)、聚矽氧油(環甲矽脂)、及氟油(全氟多醚)。脂肪 醇(如鯨蠟醇)、脂肪酸、蠟、及膠,特別是聚矽氧膠,亦為 代表性脂肪物質。 本發明之例示乳化劑及共乳化劑包括聚乙二醇之脂肪酸 醋,如PEG-100硬脂酸醋、ΡΕ(3·50硬脂酸醋與peg_4〇硬脂 酸酯;多元醇之脂肪酸酯,如硬脂酸乙二酯、葡萄糖醇三 硬脂酸酯與氧伸乙基化葡萄糖醇硬脂酸酯,例如市售之商 標名Tween™ 20或Tween™ 60 ;及其混合物。 例示親水性膠化劑特別地包括羧基乙烯基聚合物(碳合 物)、丙烯酸共聚物(如丙烯酸酯/坑基丙稀酸龍共聚物)、聚 丙稀醯胺、多醣、天然膠、及黏土。例示親脂性膠化劑特 別地包括改質黏土,例如膨土,脂肪酸之金屬鹽,及疏水 性矽石。 本發明之特點亦為一種護膚用化妝品體系/養生法,其係 藉由對皮膚局部應用含0.01-15% w/w二價鈣離子,單獨或 組合至少一種上述之其他化合物,調配至生理上可接受介 108679.doc -15· 1352595 質(媒液、稀釋劑或載劑)中之組合物。 本發明更特別地關於一種用於治療皮膚老化之負面現象 及/或純化併發症及/或皮膚或毛髮色素沉澱症及/或皮膚乾 燥及’或高皮脂溢及/或高皮脂溢相關缺陷及/或敏感性皮膚 及/或頭皮屑及/或自然掉髮及/或禿頭之化妝品體系或養生 法’其包含對皮膚或毛髮局部應用含〇〇卜15% w/w二價鈣 雒子,單獨或組合至少一種上述之其他化合物,調配至生 理上可接受介質中之組合物,經出現所需化妝/治療回應所 需時間。 名詞「皮膚老化現象J意圖為皺紋與細紋、失去皮膚之 堅實及/或彈性、皮膚萎縮、存在擴大毛細孔之較不規則皮 膚粒、失去皮膚光彩、及/或色素沉澱痕跡。 名柯「敏感性皮膚J意圖為在ΕΡ-0,6 80,749 B 1號專利中 特被化之皮膚,其在此併入作為參考。因此已證明敏感性 皮膚附帶之症狀通常包括皮膚區域經歷之疼痛感,如螫 痛刺痛、疼或癖疼、燒痛、發紅、熱痛、不適、緊端等。 廷些症狀可回應各種因素而顯露,特別是如流汗、摩擦、 情緒 '食物、風、修面、肥皂、界面活性劑、具高鈣濃度 之硬水、溫度變化、或羊毛。 因此,本發明特點亦為化妝品組合物,其在生理上可接 受介質(媒液、稀釋劑或載劑)中含〇.5% w/w二價鈣離 子、及至少一種選自以下之其他活性劑化合物:剝離溶解 劑、濕潤劑、去色素沉澱或防色素沉澱劑、抗糖化劑、N〇_ 合成酶抑制劑、5cx-還原酶抑制劑、賴胺醯基及/或脯胺醯 108679.doc -16 - 於刺激真皮或表皮巨分子合成及/或防 用於刺激成膠原細胞與角質細胞增生及/ 質細胞分化之試劑、肌肉鬆㈣、用於降低刺激之化 σ、銳微生物劑、伸張劑、抗污染劑、或自由基清除劑。 中=特Γ亦為化妝品組合物,其在生理上可接受介質
15/° W/W—價飼離子、及至少一種選自特定UVA 或UVB防曬劑之㈣防曬劑及/或至少一種視需要之經塗 覆無機顏料》 本發明之組合物極適合㈣質素基請料局部應用,如 皮膚、角質素纖維(頭髮與睫毛)及指甲。 名詞「生理上可接受介質」意圖為與皮膚及/或其包膜相 容之介質。 現在更詳細地敘述可調配至本發明組合物中之各種化合 物。 1· 剝離溶解劑及濕潤劑: 名詞「剝離溶解劑」意、圖為可如下作用之任何化合物: ⑷藉由促進表皮脫落而直接剝離溶解,如卜經基酸, 特別是柳酸與其衍生物(包括5_正辛酸基柳酸);α經基酸, 如經乙酸、檸檬酉变、乳酸、酒石酸、經丁二酸、或苯乙醇 酸;尿素;龍膽酸;寡海藤糖;桂皮酸;苦參萃取物;經 基二苯乙烯’特別是包括白藜蘆醇; (b)或涉及角膜橋粒、糖*、肖質層胰凝乳蛋白酶 (SCCE)、或甚至其他蛋白酶(姨蛋白酶、似胰凝乳蛋白酶) 之剝離溶解或降解之酶。用於鉗合礦物鹽之例示試劑為 108679.doc -17· 1352595 EDTA ; N-醯基-Ν,Ν\Ν,-伸乙二胺三酸;胺基磺酸化合物, 而且特別是(Ν-2-羥基乙基哌畊-Ν_2•乙烷)磺酸(HEPES); 2-氧噻唑啶-4-羧酸(丙半胱胺酸(pr0CySteine););如甘胺酸型式 之α-胺基酸衍生物(如ep_0,852,949號專利所述);蜂蜜;糖 衍生物,如0-辛醯基-6-D-麥芽糖與N-乙醯基葡萄糖胺。 名詞「濕潤劑」意圖為·· (a) 為了維持角質層濕潤而對屏蔽功能作用之化合 物’或閉塞化合物。例示為神經醯胺、類鞘胺脂為主化合 物、卵磷脂、糖鞘脂、磷脂、膽固醇與其衍生物、植物甾 醇(豆崔醇' β-榖留醇或菜油固醇)、必要脂肪酸、丨,2-二醯 基甘油、4-色酮、五環三萜烯、石油膠、與羊毛脂; (b) 或直接增加角質層之水含量之化合物,如蘇糖與其 衍生物、透明質酸與其衍生物 、甘油、戊二醇、氧脯氨酸 酯(pidolates)、胺基酸(例如絲胺酸、脯胺酸、麩胺酸、精 胺酸)、木糖醇、尿素、肌酸、葡萄糖胺、乳酸、乳酸酯、 • 聚甘油丙烯㈣I、依克多因(eetGin)與其衍生物、聚葡萄胺 糖、糖 糖、糖、寡醣與多醣、環形碳酸酯、 、聚天冬胺酸酯與其衍
DHEA)及維生素d與其衍生物。
3 0°/❶’而且較佳為〇 〇1%至2〇0/。。 明組合物極適合用 包含上示剝離溶解劑及濕潤劑之本發明 108679.doc •18· 1352595 於預防或治療皮膚乾燥,而且特別是乾燥症。 2.去色素沉殿或防色素沉殿劑: .. 可調配至本發明組合物中之例示去色素沉澱劑包含以下 • 4匕合物:曲酸;土耳其鞣酸;熊果苷與其衍生物,如 咖95,779與砂指,109號專利所述;氫酉昆;胺基酿衍生 ,* ’如W〇-99/10318與W〇-99/32077號專利戶斤述,而且特別 是N-膽固醇基氧錢基對胺基㈣&乙氧基m基對㈣ • ㉟;亞⑯基酴衍生物,特別是WO-99/22707號專利所述者; L-2-氧噻唑啶-4-羧酸或丙半胱胺酸,及其鹽與酯;抗壞血 酸與其衍生物,特別是抗壞血醯基糖苦;及植物萃取物, 特別是甘草、桑葚與黃岑之萃取物,此表列並非意圖限制。 例示之防色素沉澱劑包括由Maruzen上市之地榆 (Sanguisorba officinaHs)萃取物、及菊花(Chrysanthem^ morifolium)萃取物。 包含上示去色素沉澱劑之本發明組合物極適合用於預防 • -戍治療過度色素沉澱,特別是有關皮膚老化之色素沉澱痕 跡0 含上不防色素沉澱劑之組合物極適合用於治療禿頭。 3. 抗糖化劑: 名詞「抗糖化劑」意圖為用於防止及/或降低皮膚蛋白糖 化之化合物’特別是真皮蛋白,如膠蛋白。 例示抗糖化劑為杜鵑花科(Ericacea)之植物萃取物,如薛 莓(Vacdnium angustif〇丨ium)萃取物;與其衍2 物’·及羥基二苯乙烯與其衍生物,如白藜蘆醇與3,3,,5,5,_ 108679.doc
-19- 1352595 四氫二苯乙烯。這些抗糖化劑各敘述於FR-99/16166、 FR-00/08158 ' FR-99/09267、及 FR-99/16168號專利。對於 調配至本發明組合物中,特佳為白藜蘆醇。 包含以上定義之抗糖化劑之本發明組合物極適合用於預 防或治療皮膚老化現象’特別是預防或治療皮膚失去張力 及/或彈性》 4. NO·合成酶抑制劑: 極適合調配至本發明組合物中之例示N〇_合成酶抑制劑 特別地包含葡萄種(Vitis vinifera)之植物萃取物,其由
Euromed以 Leucocyanidines de raisins extra,或由 Indena以 商標名 Leucoselect.RTM,或亦由 Hansen以 Fxtrait de marc de raisin上市;橄揽種(Olea europaea)之植物萃取物,其較佳 為得自橄欖葉且由Vinyals以乾燥萃取物之形式,或由 Biologia & Technologia以商標名Eur〇〗BT上市;及銀杏種 (Gingko biloba)之植物萃取物,其較佳為此植物之乾燥水性 萃取物’由 Beaufour以 Gingkobiloba extrait standard上市。 包含以上定義之NO-合成酶抑制劑之本發明組合物極適 合用於預防或治療皮膚老化及/或敏感性皮膚之現象。 5. 5ot-還原酶抑制劑: 在本發明之組合物包含5α-還原酶抑制劑時,此抑制劑有 利地選自: 類視黃素,而且特別是視黃醇; 硫與硫衍生物; 鋅鹽,如乳酸鋅 '葡萄糖酸鋅、氧脯氨酸鋅、羧酸鋅、 108679.doc -20- 1352595 柳酸鋅及/或胱胺酸鋅; 氯化硒; 维生素B 6或吡哆醇; 辛醯基甘胺酸、肌胺酸、及錫蘭肉桂(Cinnamomum zeylanicum)萃取物之混合物,其由Seppic以商標名 SepicontrolA5.RTM.上市;
由SECMA以商標名phlorogine.RTM.上市之糖海帶 (Laminaria saccharina)萃取物; 由Silab以商標名Sebonormine™上市之繡線菊(Spiraea ulmaria)萃取物; 得自山金車種(Arnica Montana)、金雞納種(Cinchona succirubra)、丁香種(Eugenia caryophyllata)、啤酒花種 (Humulus lupulus)、貫葉金絲桃種(Hypericum perforatum)、 薄何種(Mentha piperita)、迷迭香種(Rosmarinus officinalis)、鼠尾草種(Salvia officinalis)' 百里香種(Thymus vulgaris)之植物萃取物,其均由例如Maruzen上市; 由Euromed上市之錫棕橺(Serenoa repens)萃取物; 水飛莉屬(Silybum)之植物萃取物; 含皂苷素(sapogenins)之植物萃取物,而且特別是富薯蕷 皂苷(diosgenin)或富番麻皂苷(hecogenin)之山藥 (Dioscorea)植物之萃取物;及 含丁香酚或丁香糖苷之丁香之萃取物。 5α-還原酶抑制劑有利地組成例如本發明組合物總重量 之0·00 1 ◦/。至1 0%,而且較佳為〇.〇丨%至5%。在此組合物含此 108679.doc •21 · 1352595 化合物時,其特別適合用於預防或治療皮脂及/或多毛及/ 或雄激素相關脫髮。 .· 6.賴胺醯基及/或脯胺醯基氫氧酶抑制劑: ;"可調配至本發明組合物中之賴胺醯基及/或脯胺酿基氫 氧酶抑制劑之較佳實例為w〇 96/〇9〇48號專利所述之2,各 ,一胺基㈣3_氧化物或KDPO ’及美國專利第4,139 619 與4,596,812號所述之2,4_二胺基如^基㈣3氧化物或 • "Minoxidil、 這二化δ物有利地例如以相對組合物總重量為〇. 〇 〇 1 %至 5重量%,而且較佳為〇〇1%至5重量%之比例,存在於本發 明組合物。 7.用於刺激真皮或表皮巨分子合成及/或防止其降解之 試劑: 用於刺激真皮巨分子之活性劑中,例示為 U)對以下作用者:膠蛋白合成,如雷公根(Centella • asiatica)萃取物,·積雪草苷(asiaticosides)與其衍生物;抗壞 血酸或維生素C與其衍生物;合成肽,如核纖素、生物肽 CL、或由Sederma上市之棕橺醯基寡肽;自植物萃取之肽’ 如Coletica以商標名phyt〇kine.RTM.上市之大豆水解物;植 物激素’如植物生長素及桂皮酸與其衍生物,如公告歐洲 專利申請案第0,925,779號所述; (b)或對彈性蛋白合成作用者,如LSN以商標名
Cytovitin™ 上市之酵母菌(Saccharomyces cerevisiae)萃取 物;及由SECMA以商標名Kelpadelie.RTM.上市之巨溪 108679.doc -22- 1352595 (Macrocystispyrifera)萃取物; (c) 或對葡萄糖胺基聚糖合成作用者,如由Brooks以商 .· 標名 Bi〇min yogourt®上市之乳桿菌(Lactobacillus vulgaris) . 之乳品發酵產物;由Alban Muller以商標名HSP®上市之掠 海扇藻(Padina pavonica)萃取物;及得自Silab之商標名 ' Firmalift®、或得自LSN之商標名Cytovitin®之酵母菌萃取 物; ^ (d) 或對纖維結合素合成作用者,如由Seporga以商標名 GP4G®上市之浮游生物鹽生藻(Salina)萃取物;得自八比抓 Muller之商標名Drieline®之酵母萃取物;由Sederma以商標 名Matrixil®上市之棕搁醯基五肽; (e) 或對金屬蛋白酶(MMP),更特別是MMP 1、2、3 ' 或9抑制作用者:例示為類視黃素與其衍生物、類異黃酮、 寡肽與脂肽、脂胺基酸、由Coletica以商標名Col]alift®上市 之麥芽萃取物·,藍莓或迷迭香萃取物;類胡蘿蔔素,特別 ® 地包括蕃茄紅素;異黃酮、其衍生物或含其之植物萃取物, 特別疋大豆萃取物(例如由Ichimaru pharcos以商標名 FUVosterone犯®上市)、紅花苜蓿、亞麻、kakkon、鼠尾 草或鼠尾草萃取物(如法國專利申請案第〇〇/1〇2〇3號所述); (f) 或對絲胺酸蛋白酶(如白細胞彈性酶或組織蛋白酶 G)抑制作用者;例示為豆科(Leguminosa)種子(婉豆(pisum sativum))之肽萃取物,其由LSN以商標名parelastyi⑧上市, 及類肝素與假二肽。 刺激表皮巨分子(如fillagrin與角質素)之活性劑中,特別 108679.doc •23-
1352595 地代表為由Silab以商標名Structurine®上市之羽扇豆萃取 物;由Gattefosse以商標名Gatuline®上市之山毛櫸(Fagus sylvatica)芽萃取物;及由Seporga以商標名GP4G®上市之浮 游生物鹽生藻(Salina)萃取物。 含一或多種以上化合物之本發明組合物極適合用於預防 或治療皮膚老化現象,特別是失去皮膚之堅實及/或彈性。
8·用於刺激成膠原細胞或角質細胞增生及/或角質細胞 分化之試劑: 可調配至本發明組合物中之用於刺激成膠原細胞增生之 例示試劑為包括植物蛋白或多肽、萃取物,特別是大豆(例 如由LSN以商標名Eleseryl SH-VEG8®上市或由Silab以商 標名Raffermine®上市之大豆萃取物);及植物激素,如 giberrellins與細胞分裂素。 可調配至本發明組合物中之用於刺激角質細胞增生之試 劑特別地包含類視黃素,如視黃酚與其酯,包括棕櫚酸視 只酉旨,類視黃酸與其衍生物、由Gattefosse上市之夏威夷果 仁萃取物,及由Sederma上市之馬鈐著(Solanum tuberosum) 萃取物。 用於刺激角質細胞分化之試劑包含例如礦物質,如鈣; 由Silab以商標名Photopreventine®上市之羽扇豆萃取物;由 Seporga以商標名Phytocohesine®上市之β-谷固醯基硫酸 鈉;及由Solabia以商標名Phytovityl®上市之玉米萃取物。 包含這些化合物之本發明組合物較佳為用於預防或治療 皮膚老化現象。 108679.doc •24 1352595 9. 肌肉鬆弛劑: 包括於本發明組合物之肌肉鬆弛劑包含鈣抑制劑,如痙 寧鍵(alverine)與其鹽’氯通道開放劑,如地西泮 (diazepam),及兒茶酚胺與乙醯基膽鹼抑制劑,如由nip〇tec 上市之六肽類肉毒桿(argireline R)。 包含這些化合物之本發明組合物係用於預防或治療皮膚 老化現象,特別是敵紋。
10. 抗微生物劑: 可調配至本發明組合物中之例示抗微生物劑包括2,4,4,_ 二氯-21-羥基二苯基醚(或三氣生(tricl〇san))、3,4,4,三氣 banilide、苯氧基乙醇、苯氧基丙醇、苯氧基異丙醇、2•羥 乙石黃酸己脒咬鹽、曱咕硝(metronidazole)與其鹽、咪康。坐 (micronazole)與其鹽、伊曲康唑(itrac〇naz〇le)、特康哇 (terconazole)、益康唑(econazole)、酮康唑(ketoconazole)、 沙康唑(saperconazole)、氟康唑(fiuconazole)、克黴唾 (clotrimazole)、布康唑(butoconazole)、奥昔康唑 (oxiconazole)、硫酸康。坐(sulphaconazole)、硫康 〇坐 (sulconazole)、特比奈芬(terbinafine)、環吡酮(ciclopirox)、 環0比酮胺(ciclopiroxolamine)、十一稀酸與其鹽、過氧化苯 甲醯基、3-羥基苯曱酸、4-羥基苯甲酸、植酸、N-乙醯基_L-半胱胺酸、二硫辛酸、壬二酸與其鹽、花生油酸、間苯二 酚、2,4,4、三氯.-2'-羥基二苯基醚、3,4,4'-三氯banilide、吼 。定酮乙醇胺鹽(octopirox)、辛氧基甘胺酸、辛醯基甘胺酸、 辛二醇、10-羥基-2-癸酸、WO-93/18743號專利所述之二氣 108679.doc -25- 1352595 苯基咪唑二氧戊環與其衍生物、菌氯烯醇、與植物鞘胺醇 (phytosphingosine),及其混合物。 . 較佳之抗微生物劑為三氯生、苯氧基乙醇、辛氧基甘胺 • 酸、辛醯基甘胺酸、10-羥基-2-癸酸、辛二醇、菌氣烯醇、 ^ 與壬二酸。 , 以實例之方式,抗微生物劑可有利地以組合物總重量之 0.1%至20%,而且較佳為01%至1〇%之量,調配至本發明之 組合物中。 11.伸張劑: 名詞「伸張劑」意圖為可對皮膚施加張力之化合物,其 效果為暫時消除皮膚表面上之不規則體,如皺紋及細紋。 可調配至本發明組合物中之伸張劑中,特別具代表性 為: (1) 聚胺甲酸酯乳膠或丙烯酸-聚矽氧乳膠,特別是 丑?-1,038,5 19號專利所述者,如經丙基硫(聚丙烯醆甲酯)、 • 丙基硫(聚甲基丙烯酸曱酯)或丙基硫(聚曱基丙烯酸)接枝 聚二曱基矽氧烷,或經丙基硫(聚甲基丙烯酸異丁酯)與丙基 ' 硫(聚曱基丙烯酸)接枝聚二甲基矽氧烷。此接枝聚矽氧聚合 物係由3 Μ以商標名VS 80、VS 70或L021上市。 (2) 大豆或小麥植物蛋白,及/或 (3) 矽酸鈉鎂(Laponites)。 包含以上伸張劑之本發明組合物極適合用於治療皮膚老 化現象,特別是敏紋及細紋。 1 2 ·免疫調節劑: 108679.doc -26· 1352595 广「免疫調節劑」意圖為可刺激或抑制身體之免疫回 μ之任何化合物’如類固醇、皮f激素、硫Μ吟、魏基 ..::、甲胺杯黴盼酸與其衍生物、環抱靈素(leflu_ide) • 與其衍生物、或環磷醯胺。 ' 13.抗污染劑或自由基清除劑: _ 名詞「抗污染劑J意圖為可捕捉臭氧、單環或多環芳族 化合物(如苯并派嗔)及/或重金屬(如始、《、鎖、及/或錄) • 之任何化合物。名詞「自由基清除劑」意圓為可捕捉自由 基之任何化合物。 可調配至本發日月組合物中之例以氧捕捉劑特別是維生 與其衍生物,包括抗壞血醯基糖H與^,特別是 早寧、土耳其鞣酸與單寧酸;表沒食子兒茶素 (:p^gall〇catechln)與含其之天然萃取物,·撖揽樹葉萃取物; 余萃取物,特別是綠茶;花青素;迷迭香萃取物;齡酸, 特別疋.彔原酉文,一苯乙稀,特別是白蘇產醇;含硫胺基酸 ,1生⑯#別是s•幾基^基半胱胺酸,麥角硫醇,· N_乙酿 , 基半胱胺酸;鉗合劑,例如N,N,-武(3,4,5-三甲氧基节基) 乙一胺或其鹽、金屬錯合物或醋之一;類胡蘿葡素,如蕃 紅酸’及各種原料,例如以下之混合物:精胺酸、組胺酸、 核糖核酸、甘露醇、腺苷三鱗酸鹽"比。多醇、苯基丙胺酸、
酪胺西夂及由 Laboratoires SerobioIogiqUes以商標名 cpp LS 2633-12F®上市之水解RNA、由s〇iabia以商標名 Phytovityl®上市之玉米水溶性部份由以商標名 Unicotrozcm C_49®上市之藍堇萃取物與檸檬萃取物之混合 108679.doc •27· 1352595 物及由Provitaland以商標名pronaien Bioprotect®上市之 人參、蘋果、桃子、小麥、與大麥萃取物之混合物。 本發明之用於捕捉單環或多環芳族化合物之例示試劑特 別疋單f ’如土耳其韓酸;吲哚衍生物,特別是吲哚3 _甲 醇;茶萃取物,特別是綠茶;鳳眼蓮或布袋 crassipes)萃取物;及由solabiaw商標名phyt〇vhyl⑧上市之 玉米水溶性部份。 最後’可凋配至本發明組合物中之重金屬捕捉劑特別地 包括鉗合劑,如EDTA、伸乙二胺四亞曱基磷酸之五鈉鹽、 及N,N'-雙(3,4,5-三曱氧基苄基)乙二胺或其鹽、金屬錯合物 或醋之一;植酸;葡萄糖胺衍生物;茶萃取物,特別是綠 茶;單寧,如土耳其鞣酸;含硫胺基酸,如半胱胺酸;鳳 眼蓮(Eichhornia crassipes)萃取物;及由s〇】abia以商標名 Phytovityl®上市之玉米水溶性部份。 可包括於本發明組合物之自由基清除劑除了上示之特定 抗污染劑包含維生素E與其衍生物,如乙酸生育酚醋;生物 類黃酮;輔酶Q1 0或ubiquinone ;特定酶,例如觸酶、超氧 化物歧化酶、乳過氧化酶、麩胱甘肽過氧化酶、與奎寧還 原酶;麩胱甘肽;亞苄基樟腦;苄基環化酮 (benzylcyclanones);經取代萘酮(napthalenones);氧捕氨酸 鹽;植坑三醇;γ-縠醇;木齡素(lignans);及退黑激素。 包含上示抗污染劑及/或自由基清除劑之本發明組合物 極適合用於預防或治療皮膚老化現象’特別是敞紋,及失 去皮膚之堅實與彈性及脫水。至於變化,其與可用於預防 108679.doc -28· 1352595 或治療鈍化併發症者相同。 14. UVA及/或UVB防嘴劑及視需要之經塗覆無機顏料: 本發明之組合物可含一或多種可篩除UVA及/或UVB放 射線之UV防曬劑。 用於師除UVA放射線之例不化合物特別地包括: (a) 二苯基酮衍生物,例如: 2,4-二羥基二苯基酮(二苯基酮_〗); 2,2·,4,4,-四羥基二笨基酮(二苯基酮_2); 2-經基-4 -甲氧基二苯基酮(二苯基酮_3),其得自BASF2 商標名 Uvinul M40 ; 2-經基-4-甲氧基二苯基酮_5-續酸(二苯基嗣_4)與其績酸 鹽(二苯基_-5) ’其得自BASF之商標名uvinul MS40 ; 2,2·-二羥基-4,4’-二曱氧基二苯基酮(二苯基酮_6); 5 -氣-2-經基二苯基_(二苯基酮; 2,2'-二經基-4 -曱氧基二苯基酮(二苯基酮_8); 2,2’-二羥基-4,4’-二曱氧基二苯基酮_5,5,_二磺酸之二鈉 鹽(二苯基酮-9); 2-經基-4 -甲氧基-4’ -甲基二苯基酮(二苯基酮_1〇); 二苯基酮-11 ; 2-經基-4-(辛氧基)二苯基酮(二苯基酮_12); 車父佳為一本基酿I - 3與二苯基目同_ 5 ; (b) 三畊衍生物’而且特別是得自Ciba Geigy之商標名 Tinosorb S之2,4-貳{[4-(2-乙基己氧基)_2_羥基]苯基}_6_(4_ 曱氧基苯基)-1,3,5-三畊、及得自Ciba Geigy之商標名 108679.doc •29· 1352595
Tinosorb M 之 2 2'-凸田甘 + >· ,/亞曱基貳[6-(2H-苯并三唑·2_ 基)-4-(1,1,3,3-四甲基丁基)酚]; ⑷苯],4-家(3-次甲基.1〇•樟腦續酸),其視需要部份或 完全中和形式,及 (d) 其混合物。 用於篩除UVB放射線之例示化合物包括: (a) 柳酸衍生物,特別是柳酸升孟酯與柳酸辛酯; (b) 桂皮酸衍生物,特別是得自Givaudan之商標名 ParsolMCX之對曱氧基桂皮酸2_乙基己酯; (c) 液態β,β _ —苯基丙烯酸醋衍生物,特別是α_氰基 -α,β’- 一苯基丙稀酸2-乙基己酯,或得自BASF之商標名 Uvinul N539之辛-柳酸(octocryiene); (d) 對胺基苯甲酸衍生物; (e) 得自Merck之商標名Eusolex 6300之4-甲基亞节基 樟腦; (f) Merck以商標名"Eusolex 232"上市之2-苯基苯并味 唑-5-磺酸; (g) 】,3,5-三啡衍生物,特別是得自BASF之商標名 Uvinul T150之2,4,6-参[對-(2'-乙基己基氧基羰基)苯胺 基-1,3,5-三嗜。 用於篩除UVA及UVB放射線之例示化合物特別地包括: 植物萃取液,特別是迷迭香(迷迭香酸)及火絨草屬 (Leontopodium),特別是植物種火絨草(Leontopodium alpinum)或毛香火絨草(Leontopodium stracheyi) ’·及敘述於 I08679.doc -30- 1352595 FR-A-2,642,968號專利之苯并三啥聚石夕氧。 例示視需要經塗覆無機顏料包括視需要地塗覆鋁及/或 硬知酸紹之二氧化鈦、氧化鐵、氧化鋅、氧化錯' 或氧化 鈽之奈米顏料。 1 5 ·用於降低刺激之神經原來源化合物: 用於降低刺激之神經原來源化合物之例示化合物包括: (a) 物質P拮抗劑,而且特別是EP-0,680,749號專利所述 者,至少一種非光合成絲狀細菌萃取物,特別是 EP-0,761,204號專利所述之Vitre〇sciUa仙如油, EP-0,764,44〇號專利所述之泉水,至少一種薔薇科植物之萃 取物,特別是公告歐洲專利申請案第〇,9〇6,752號所述之法 國玫瑰種(Rosa gallica),及公告歐洲專利申請案第 0,737,47丨與〇,77〇,3〇2號所述之鹼土金屬; (b) CGRP拮抗劑,特別是Ep_〇,765,668號專利所述者, 而且特別是龄尾草(Iridacea)萃取物,特別是香根f尾種 (Iris pallida); (c) NO-合成酶抑制劑; ⑷緩動素(bradykinin)括抗劑,而且特別是公告歐洲專 利申請案第0,909,556號所述者; (e) 細胞活素拮抗劑; (f) 組織胺拮抗劑; (g) 白介素1及/或以型腫瘤壞死因子(TNFoc)之拮抗劑, 而且特別是公告歐洲專利申請案第M92,642與〇,764,444號 所述者,特別是肽M〇duW、三月太離胺酸·捕胺酸-綠胺酸 I08679.doc 31 1352595 (KPV),及至少一種Labiae科植物之萃取物,特別是迷迭香 種; (h) 鈉通道阻塞劑,其較佳為選自:阿米洛利 (Amiloride)、奎尼丁(Quinidine)、奎尼丁硫酸鹽、蜂毒明 肽(Apamine)、赛庚咬(Cyproheptadine)、洛派 丁胺 (Loperamide) '與N-乙醯基普魯卡因醯胺(procainamide);
(i) 鉀通道開放劑,特別是米諾地爾(Minoxidil)與其衍 生物》 組合物亦應包含媒液以將活性成分於適當稀釋液中輸送 至皮膚。該組合物可為液體、懸浮液、乳液、洗劑或乳霜 形式。 本發明組合物中活性成分用媒液之選擇視得自組合物之 所需產物而有大範圍之可能性。適當之媒液可如下分類。 應了解,媒液為可作為活性成分之稀釋劑、分散劑或溶
劑’因此確保其可按適當濃度應用於皮膚且均勻地分布之 物質;媒液較佳為可幫助 ^ 晃助活性成分穿透皮膚者,如此因改 良之性質而確俘i, 雒保I長活性成分之效果。本發明之組合 包括水、及/或至少—絲w , 液。 ^種水以外之化妝上可接受媒液作為媒 T用於本發明組合物之水以外媒液可包 如潤滑劑、推進劑'®飞成體 ,谷劑、保濕劑、增稠劑、與粉末。可 旱獨地或如一或冬錄 之實例如下: 載劑之混合物使用之各這些型式媒液 '閏滑劑,如硬脂醇 '甘油單萬麻油酸S旨、甘油單硬脂酸 108679.doc •32- 1352595 醋、丙-1,2 -二醇、丁-1,3 -二醇、紹油、鯨蠛醇、異硬脂酸 異丙酯、硬脂酸、棕櫚酸異丁酯、硬脂酸異鯨蠟酯、油醇、 月桂酸異丙酯、月桂酸己酯、油酸癸酯、十八碳-2-醇、異 鯨蠟醇、棕櫚酸鯨蠟酯、二曱基聚矽氧烷、癸二酸二正丁 酯、肉豆蔻酸異丙酯、棕櫚酸異丙酯' 硬脂酸異丙酯、硬 脂酸丁酯、聚乙二醇、三乙二醇、羊毛脂、蓖麻油、乙醯 化羊毛脂醇、石油、礦物油、肉豆蔻酸丁酯、異硬脂酸、 棕櫚酸、亞麻油酸異丙酯、乳酸月桂酯、乳酸肉豆寇酯、 油酸癸酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯; 推進劑,如三氯氟甲烷、二氯二氟曱烷、二氯四氟乙烷、 單氣一氣曱烧、二氣二氟1乙烧、丙烧、丁烧、異丁院、二 甲醚、二氧化礙、氧化硝酸; 溶劑,如乙醇、二氯曱烷、異丙醇、蓖麻油、乙二醇一 乙醚、二乙二醇一丁醚、二乙二醇一乙醚、二甲基亞硬、 四氫°夫喃; 保濕劑’如甘油、山梨醇、2-°比嘻。定酮-5-缓酸鈉 '可溶 性膠蛋白、酞酸二丁酯、明膠;及 粉末,如白堊 '滑石、填料、泥土、高嶺土、澱粉、膠、 膠體二氧化矽、聚丙烯酸鈉、四烷基及/或三烷基芳基銨、 蒙脫石、經化學改質矽酸鎂鋁、經有機改質微晶高嶺土、 水合矽酸紹、發煙矽石、羧基乙烯基聚合物 '羧基曱基纖 維素鈉、乙二醇單硬脂酸酯。 組合物中之媒液量,若存在則包括水,較佳為應足以將 至少一部伤活性成分以足以對皮膚有效提供益處之量載至 I08679.doc -33· 1352595 皮膚。媒液量可包含組合物 他成分存在於組合物時。 特別疋極少或無其 • •组合物因而包含15至99.嶋,而且較佳為 • 〇/〇之媒液。 王π·5重里 視思圖產物之形式%中 ,_ 式而疋,本發明之組合物可含已述以外 二:色:如其可包括抗菌劑、防腐劑、抗氧化劑、乳化 劑、者色劑、與清潔劑,其中某些詳述於上。 • 本發明之植合物亦可使用用於廣泛種類化妝上或藥用化 妝=性成分,特別是在應用於皮膚時具有某些有益效果匕 之成分之媒液。 組合物因此提供一種可將活性成分以適當濃度稀釋、分 散、輸运、及分布至皮膚表面上之方式。 本發明亦提供一種護膚或治療套件,其包含:一種含本 發明組合物之容器,其視需要進一步包含如何使用本發明 組合物之指示。 ’ I發明组合物亦可加入面膜或或體膜。此膜可包含一種 •墊片’其含用以對皮膚施加指定作用之本發明組合物。墊 片可為乾燥或濕網狀態,為了使膜適合欲治療之臉形或身 體部份’較佳為至少在濕網狀態可拉伸。塾片可由紙、織 物、布、或聚合材料製成。 本發明亦提供一種製備局部應用於皮膚之化妝品經合物 方法,、包3展合在此定義之活性成分與適當媒液而提 供0 · 0 0 1 %至〇 · 5 %之濃度。 本發明組合物可調配成液體,例如洗劑或乳汁’以結合 108679.doc •34- ί> \ …95
塗抹器(如滚球塗抹器)或可含推進劑之噴灑裝置(如氣溶 膠)或裝有装以分配液態產物之容器使用。或者,本發明 、、且口物可為固態或固態,例如棒形物、乳霜或凝膠,以結 口適备塗抹态或僅管、瓶或加蓋之瓶使用’或如經液體浸 潰織物’如擦拭紙巾。 較佳為組合物為水性乳液且其可為油包水乳液、或水包 ’由礼液。特別重要之本發明組合物為其中乳液之水相作為 載劑之水性脂乳液。 、局部應用L合物特別重I,因為皮膚情況視必要 胺基酸存在而定。此組合物可為液態或塑性:&態組合物 包括油’其包含本發明組合物,有或不添加載劑;由;洗劑,
如自由或何t形式之本發明⑽在生理上可接受溶劑中之溶 例如知之水/谷液或水性乳液;及乳霜與軟膏,例如自 由或何生形式之醋在適當載劑(例如軟膏基料)中之塑性分 散液。此組合物可用於預防及治癒因與清潔劑接觸造成之 皮膚損傷,及治療由於氣候、曰0麗、其他型式之燒傷造成 之環境創傷,及降低皮膚上之細菌活性。 本發明因而提供—種含在此定義之化妝品組合物之封閉 容器。 本發明之組合物特別地 疋在皮膚表面過乾、龜裂 意圖局部應用於人類皮膚,特別 、磨損、或其他損傷。 本發明因而亦包括一 有過乾、龜裂、磨損、 之人類病患局部施藥之 種將本發明之組合物對患有或易患 或其他皮膚損傷,及其他皮膚疾病 方法。劑量比例視欲治療病況及施 i08679.doc
*35· 1352595 藥途徑而定。局部皮膚症狀可能需要應用組合物一或多次。 本發明亦提供在此定義之活性成分在局部治療皮膚疾病 之用途。
本發明組合物對促進或回復皮膚屏蔽功能之效果可使用 實驗動物模型或對人類病患測試而評估。
可用於本發明之模型實驗動物為人類以外常作為各種測 試之實驗動物者。其可使用任何動物’只要與本發明之目 的一致’但是通常可使用老鼠、天竺鼠、兔子等。 動物可接受降低皮膚屏蔽功能之處置。此處置可為任何 可有效地降低皮膚㈣功能之方法。4置之格式無關緊 要。為了造成此降低,其方便地藉膠帶剝除去除表皮之角 層,或藉由以界面活性劑(例如十二碳基硫酸納(sds))或有 機溶劑(如丙酮)處理而去除角層m療之時間,在老鼠 之情形’較佳為例如在自施加應力結束起約12小時後,以 確保對貫驗動物之充分應力狀態。
在如上降低皮膚屏蔽位置處之皮膚屏蔽功能回復程度# 按時間或在預定之時間間隔後谓測。造成降低之位置可, 實驗動物之任何位置,只要其可❹i皮膚屏蔽功能回復卷 度’但是其通常較佳為選擇外耳,即耳朵之突出外部。 貞列方法可為測1表皮水損失或皮膚不顯汗(π肌)— 其通吊視為皮膚屏蔽功能e , 標之其他因素_可藉=,仁疋亦可使用可作為指 Λ , LT猎本身常用之市售裝置測量。至於 典型裝置,可提&Evap()nm 於 測量儀等。 meier、—ter、Micr_oisture I08679.doc -36 - 1352595 例如本發明組合物對促進或回復皮膚屏蔽功能之效果可 使用表皮水損失測量用儀器,例如Tewameter TM-210 .· (C〇urage+Khazaka electronic,Cologne, Germany) ’ 對人類 - 病患測試。例如可使人類病患在固定溫度(21度攝氏)及濕度 3 0-5 0°/。之空調室中開始測量前,休息及放鬆15_3〇分鐘,測 ' I位置處之皮膚不覆蓋。使儀器在開機後溫機15分鐘。檢 查校正且對所有後續測量將基線值設為零。將測量探針垂 φ 直水平面皮膚放置,直到達到穩定值,其為在放置探針後 勺6 0私。其應避免連續手持或對探針之任何熱轉移。將探 針對皮膚之接觸麼力保持低且固定。 為了測D式本發明組合物對皮膚屏蔽功能之效果,可使用 貝驗動物或人類志願者。例如對人類志願者證驗前臂手掌 上之數個位置處。將制試組合物及安慰劑隨機地應用於 化些位置上。在預定時間點(依照環境及病患情況而不同) 取得表皮水損失之測量^將f料列表且統計地分析。 , 視需要地’本發明組合物對促進或回復皮膚屏蔽功能之 : 效果可使用皮膚表面水合測量用儀器,例如Corneometer CM825 (Courage+Khazaka electronic, Cologne, Germany). 對人類病患測試。例如可使人類病患在固定溫度(2i度攝氏) 及濕度30.下之空調室中開始測量前,休息及放鬆η, 測量位置處之皮膚不覆蓋。使儀器在開機後溫機5 刀里。將祙針以浸於70%乙醇之紙巾 立 I惊拭,及相對乾燥之 /月a'面(桌面或台面)歸零以確立^ ^ ^ Λ 取裔之整體性(讀數應小 於5) °為了得到讀數,應在皮膚内谁 胃η進仃3次測量繼而平均。 108679.doc (§) -37- 1352595
探針僅握住把手’溫和地垂直皮膚表面放置且壓下直到探 .十之外设接觸皮膚。對所有測量施加相同之壓力,避免過 又之壓力》在測量元成時儀器發出嗶聲。在各後續測量前, 將探針表面以浸於70%乙醇之紙巾擦栻,及將探針相對乾 燥表面再度歸零。例如對各志願者證驗前臂手掌上之數個 位置處。將欲測試調配物及安慰劑隨機地應用於這些位置 上在預定時間點(依照環境及病患情況而不同)取得皮膚表 面水合之測量。將資料列表且統計地分析。 个赞明亦提供 之方法。此
方法包含:對哺乳動物之皮膚局部地應用一毛 組合物’其包含在生理上可接受介按組合物總重量言 為約〇.〇卜8% Ww二價弼離子及/或二價㈣子,經出現所雷 化妝/治療回應所需時間。不欲皮膚情況之實例包括但不押 於皮膚老化之負面現象、鈍化併發症、皮膚或毛髮色素沉 歲症、皮膚乾燥、高皮脂溢、高皮脂溢相關缺陷、敏感性 皮膚、頭皮肩、自然掉髮、及究頭。病理皮膚情況之實例 包括但不限於關於角質化疾病(分化_增生)之皮膚疾病,發 火及/或免疫變態’如異常痤瘡、黑頭粉刺或多態、老年粉 刺、曰光及醫藥或專業粉刺、玫瑰斑、大規模及/或嚴重形 式之牛皮癬’及其他角質化疾病,如似魚鱗病狀態、毛囊 角化病、手掌角化病、白化病與似白化病狀態、扁平 :有良性或惡性皮膚增生、大規模或嚴重類風濕病。牛皮 癬、搔癢’紅斑、特異性皮炎、接觸性皮炎、接觸性渴療、 扁平苔癖、轉、#歸'4料性皮炎、與角化過度。 lOS679.doc -38- * 丁各引用資料,不論是公開文獻、專利、專利申請案 等,在此併入作為參考。 為了進一步描述本發明及其優點而顯示以下之指定實 例應了解其僅意圖為描述性且絕非限制性。 在該以下實例中,所有之份及百分比均為重量比。 實例 實例1:爽膚水溶液 此實例敘述本發明組合物之一個具體實施例,其為水溶 液且可作為皮膚爽膚水。溶液之成分列於以下。 氣化鈉 2.13% 氯化鉀 0.48% 溴化斜 0.54% 氣化鎮 2.02% 氣化鈣 2.06% 甘油 1.02% 水 91.54% 防腐劑 0.21% 此溶液在回復皮膚中主要離子成分自身穩定之組合物中 含鈣離子與其他鹽之組合。得自NaCn、KC1、KBr之單價離 子:鉀及鈉,與得自MgCl2及CaCh之二價離子之比例係保 持平衡。小心地製備混合物以不造成「鹽析」現象,其中 在添加較水溶性者後強迫較不水溶性鹽結晶。使用甘油維 持溶液之黏度。 簡言之,依照以下步驟製備此實例之溶液。將氣化鈉、 108679.doc •39- (§) 氣化鉀與溴化鉀藉攪拌 几全令入純化水中。然後將氣化鎂 、丄办^ 見件直到各元全溶解。然後加入甘 油與防腐劑。在裝填前 便冷液通過〇·2微米過濾器以除去 不溶顆粒或其他雜質。 實例2:護膚乳霜 —此實例敘述本發明組合物之—個具體實施例,其為水-油 礼液且可作為護膚乳霜。乳液(稱為乳霜調配物υ之成分列 於以下。 5.2% 3.9% 3.15% 0.88% 1.06% 0.51% 81.72% 0.22% 1.9% 0.53% 0.93% 適量 四辛酸/四癸酸異戊四醇酯 乳化壞 甲硫酸蘿基三甲基銨(與)鯨蠟硬脂醇 礦物油 大豆油 羊毛脂醇 水 氯化鈣 甘油 小麥胺基酸 防腐劑 香料 在此具體實施例之變體中,以上列成分製備水_油乳液, 除了降低氣化鈣之濃度,而且加入如鎂之其他二價陽離子 及如鈉與鉀之單價陽離子》此乳液(稱為乳霜調配物⑴之成 分列於以下。 108679.doc • 40- 丄
四辛酸/四癸酸異戊四醇酯 乳化蠟 曱硫酸蘿基三甲基銨(與)鯨蠟硬脂醇 礦物油 大豆油 羊毛脂醇 水 氯化鈣 氣化鎮 氣化鋼 氣化If 溴化鉀 甘油 小麥胺基酸 防腐劑香料 5.2% 5.89% 3.15% 0.88% 1.06% 0.51% 79.58% 0.104% 0.102% 0.108% 0.027% 0.029% 1.9% 0.53% 0.93% 適量 依照本發明之此具體實施例,水-油乳液提供鈣離子(視 需要與如鎂之其他二價離子及如鈉與鉀之單價離子保持平 衡)、天然胺基酸與必要皮膚脂成分。據信藉由組合鈣離子 與天然胺基酸及7或必要皮膚脂質成分,可避免外來弼激發 之不欲或負面影響。其乃因為僅將鈣應用於皮膚可能強迫 ,膚使用來自皮膚之低品質代替品而建立皮膚屏蔽,特別 在皮膚已欠損或為病理情況時。因此,乳霜可對皮膚供 、’°品要之「建立區」以構成及回復皮膚屏蔽。 I08679.doc • 41 - (§) uy2595 要::::二:毛_含靡固醇,而且大豆油提供皮膚必 需要之材料。氯化J甘Jt! 天然地濕潤皮膚 产缓俨地 中之扣合物較佳為在指定溫 :緩U地加入脂質混合物,以避免低分子量腊質因㈣離 子形成錯合物而造成急劇沉” ^ ^使用之界面活性劑具有特 毛輸:力以將必要成分輸送至皮膚中之目標位置。 隨5之’此實例中之乳霜係依照以下步驟 ^四㈣異戊四㈣、乳化壤、甲硫縣基三甲基敍與魚t 月曰知、镇物油、大豆油、及羊毛脂醇加 而且將容器授掉及加熱至抑。將氣化妈溶入水加 :甘油。將水溶液加熱至价且快速授拌 單相乳液。將容器冷树。在達到所需溫度時 α小麥胺基酸、防腐劑與香料且在容器… 實例3:護膚凝膠 (與)環六矽氧烷 環甲聚矽氧 丙二醇 可溶性膠蛋白 水解絲蛋白 乙酸生育酚酯 甘油 =例敘述本發明組合物之一個具體實施例,其為聚矽 為主凝膠且可作為護膚《。轉之成分列於以下。 環五石夕氡览(與)二甲聚石夕氧交聯聚合物70.44% 19.52% 3.64% 0.49% 0.72% 0.45% 2.98% 108679.doc (§) -42- 1352595 海洋膠蛋白胺基酸 氯化妈 P方腐劑 1.020/c 此調配物組合鈣離子與胺基酸以增強膠蛋白製造及抗老 化性質。據信僅添加外來鈣可能不足以促進皮膚之膠蛋白 製造。凝膠中之可溶性膠蛋白意圖直接供應此必要皮膚成 刀 而膠蛋白私基酸對建立區供應膠蛋白與彈性蛋白合
0.53% 0.21% 成》在此調配物中,較佳為不加入水,雖然適量水應無害。 簡言之’此實例之凝膠係依照以下步驟製備。在製造容 盗中將環五矽氧烷、二甲聚矽氧交聯聚合物、環六矽氧烷 之混合物(例如聚矽氧彈性體摻合物)加入環甲聚矽氧且攙 拌。將丙二醇、可溶性膠蛋白、水解絲蛋白 '乙酸生育酚 酯、甘油、海洋膠蛋白胺基酸、氯化鈣、及防腐劑在分離 谷器中混合’然後連續適度攪拌而加入製造容器中。小心 攪拌以避免充氣太多。 ^ 實例4 :皮膚清潔洗劑 其可作為 69.95% 2.28% 4.96% 3.18% 1.25% 2.47% 此實例敘述本發明組合物之一個具體實施例 皮膚清潔劑《皮膚清潔劑之成分列於以下。 水 油酸癸酯 月桂基硫酸鈉 硬脂酸 月桂醯胺DEA 硬脂酸甘油酯S.E. 108679.doc -43· 1352595
鯨蠟醇 丙二醇 三乙醇胺 磷脂 1,3-丁二醇 膽固醇 乙酸生育酴酷 三胺單硝酸酯 於驗酸 D-泛酸|弓 °比哆醇 抗壞血酸 棕櫚酸視網酯 膽鈣化醇 植物甲萘西昆 聚山梨醇酯-80 尿素搭 對羥基苯甲酸甲酯 對羥基苯甲酸丙酯 發明人相信具過度溶解強 水溶性成分,包括鈣、鎂、 1.98% 2.37% 0.24% 0.82% 0.69% 0.36% 0.21% 0.09% 0.11% 0.12% 0.04% 0.12% 0.05% 0.06% 0.09% 8.11% 0.29% 0.11% 0.05% 之皮膚清潔劑可自皮膚萃取 、鉀等之離子。為了防止此 生命礦物質萃取而提供本發明清潔劑,其在應用於皮膚且 清除時,在清潔後於皮膚表面上留下薄層脂肪。此層係因 在清潔劑中加入脂肪膜形成成分而形成,如油酸癸酯、月 10S679.doc • 44· 1352595 桂酿胺DEA與硬脂酸甘油酯S.E.。 實例5:評定表皮令鈣離子分布變化之活體研究 此實例敘述進行以評定在應用實例1所述爽膚水調配物
及實例2所述乳霜調配物Π前後表皮中鈣離子分布變化之活 體研究。 1) 材料及方法 標準品:氯化鈣於20% (w/v)明膠溶於具5%甘油之熱蒸
餾水。將標準品以約-19(TC急速冷凍(在Freon中)且冷凍超 薄切片(在約-2(rC)成12-16微米之厚度,然後將其冷凍乾 燥。
樣品.得自手術之新鮮人類腹部皮膚膜。在去除脂肪 後,在25 C使用1〇〇/。月桂基硫酸鈉水溶液清洗皮膚膜3小時 以去除礦物質。在風乾後,將皮膚切成數片。將一些片保 持不處理 '繼而將其餘片之表皮表面應用實⑷所述爽膚水 調配物及實例2所述乳霜調配物π處理3〇分 以紙巾乾燥而錯過量材料。將所有樣品(經處理;^表理面) 。以約-were急速冷康(在Freon中)且冷;東超薄切片(在約, °C)成15-20微米之厚度,然後將其冷凍乾燥。 分析:分析係使用質子感應乂_射線發射(ριχΕ)法實行。 將樣品安裝在兩片主Γ Η 叉伢/白之間。將來自靜電加速器 (Met臟311即)之2.5 _之質子藉四極管磁鐵準直及聚 焦,而在5-】〇xl00平方微米之樣品處形成長方形光點。質 子電流密度為UpA/平方微米。各分析中累積之總電荷為 〇·¥且以KeVexSi(Li)偵測器制χ•射線⑽平方毫米,内 I08679.doc •45- 1352595 部準直成60平方毫米,在5 9 keV為FWHM=160 eV)。 2) 結果 5平疋各皮膚切片中之弼濃度。如圖1所示,未處理皮膚切 片(「處理前」)顯示低鈣濃度。經處理切片(「處理後」) 顯示在上層(接近皮膚表面)較高且在較深表皮較低之飼濃 度梯度。此#5》辰度梯度型式非常類似文獻對正常皮膚報告 之型式。參見 Malmqvist et al_ (1987) "The use of ΡίχΕ in experimental studies of the physiology of human skin epidermis",Bi〇l. Trace Elem· Res. 12 : 297-308 ;及 Pallon et al. (1996) "Pixe analysis of pathological skin with special reference to psoriasis and atopic dry skin," Cell Mol Biol (Noisy-le-grand) 42 (1) : 111-8。 3) 結論 此活體研究顯示本發明爽膚水及乳霜可將鈣輸送至皮膚 中’而且達成將去除礦物質皮膚膜之鈣濃度梯度回復成在 正常皮膚發現之型式。 實例6 :評定本發明爽膚水及乳霜對皮膚屏蔽功能回復之 效果之活體研究 此實例敘述進行以評定在應用實例1所述爽膚水調配物 及實例2所述乳霜調配物II對皮膚屏蔽功能回復之效果之活 體研究,其使用表皮水損失(TEWL)測量。 1) 材料及方法 五位年齡範圍為25至45歲之皮膚正常之病患參與此研 究。TEWL係使用 Tewameter TM-210 (Courage+Khazaka, I08679.doc -46- 1352595
Germany)對各病患同一手臂之兩個前臂手掌位置實行。在 適應期間後’進行TEW_量以評定基線值1兩個位置故 意使用Scotch膠帶剝除15次而損傷,但是不完全去除表 皮個位置保持不處理而覆以紗布。繼而將另一位置每 日兩次間隔8小時應用實例丨所述爽膚水調配物及實例之所 述乳霜調配物II而處理。每日一次在處理前對位置測量 TEWL。其在膠帶剝除後重複$曰。 2) 結果: 圖2顯示皮膚屏蔽功能之進度,其係按TEWL基線值/剝除 及處理後TEWL計算。活體人類皮膚無處理即顯示回復力。 本發明爽膚水及乳霜之處理在皮膚因剝除受損後前3天加 速回復過程。 3) 結論 相較於不應用之位置,本發明爽膚水及乳霜之應用可加 速屏蔽回復。 實例7 :評定本發明爽膚水及乳霜對患有已知乾燥皮膚病 況之人類病患之效果之活體研究 此實例敘述進行以評定在應用實例1所述爽膚水調配物 及實例2所述乳霜調配物Π對患有已知乾燥皮膚病況之人類 病患之效果之活體研究。 1) 材料及方法 總共30位年齡為1 7至60歲之在腿下半部區域患有極小至 溫和皮膚乾燥症狀之男性及女性病患參與此研究。每曰兩 认對各病患之症狀區域應用一組貫例1所述爽膚水調配物 I08679.doc -47- 1352595 及貫例2所述乳霜調配物π經兩週。將每日自我評估按記分 表及/或紅斑記載於臨床研究形式(CRF)上。在第2週自病患 收集CRF以進行資料分析。 安全性評估:安全性係由生命現象、所應用皮膚之現象 與症狀、及所報告之負面經驗而評定。 效率評估:4了決定效率,使用達到無臨床現象程度之 時間作為參數^ 2) 結果: 基於基本記分表’所有病患為低於程度2之病況,其為溫 和;主要為細4程度。3G位病患之平均分數為178。年齡 中位數為32.5歲。對於安全性評#,所有病患在研究期間 未報告負面影響。臨床研究形式之分析已顯示以下所列切 繪於圖3之各病患達到無臨床現象程度之時間。其觀察到 9〇%之病患在按指示使用本發明爽膚水及乳霜丨丨日後報止 無臨床現象程度。 σ 處理曰數 1 病患數量 0 病患累積數量 〇 病患百分比 2 0 Π 0% 3 1 V 1 0% 4 2 1 3% 5 1 D 4 10% 6 1 < 13% 7 4 Q 17% 8 6 y 1 ς 30% 9 4 1 <J 10 50% 10 5 94 63% 11 3 97 80% 12 2 OQ 90% 13 0 29 97% 14 1 30 97% 總共 ~~30 ' 100% 108679.doc
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Claims (1)
1352595 1¾ f 095UM795號專利申請案補充、修正部分未劃線之說明書替換頁
十、申請專利範圍:--^期:⑽年8月 1 · 一種護膚用組合物,包含: 氯化鈣 '氯化鎂,及溴化鉀,在生理上可接受介質 中按組合物總重量計為〇 〇1_8% w/w之二價鈣離子 與曰〇.〇1_8% WW的二價鎂離子,且氣化鹤與氯化鎂之 重里比例範圍為2:1至1:3,二價氣化齊與漠化鉀重量比 例範圍為6:1至1:5。 2·如請求項1之組合物 之水溶液。 3·如請求項丨之組合物 之水溶液。 4.如請求項1之組合物 其中組合物為包含至少8〇% w/w水 其中組合物為包含至少9〇% w/w水 其中組合物進一步包含鈉單價陽 ,而且二價㈣子對單價陽離子之重量比例範圍為 D . 1 至 1 : 20。 5.如°月求項1之組合物,更包含納離子。 _ 6.如請求項人 7 ^ 、” D物,其中鈉離子係由氣化鈉提供。 /.如清求項 5 . 、’ 13物,其中組合物包含重量比例範圍為 8如.社至1 ··10之氯化鈣與氣化鈉。 2: i至項6之組合物’其中组合物包含重量比例範圍為 ^ 1 : 3之氯化鈣與氯化鈉》 λ ^ 6之、且5物,其中組合物包含重量比例為i ·. i之 • 虱化鈣與氯化鈉。 10.如請求項〇入 、 ,、且s物,其中组合物進一步包含氯化鉀且 1 1352595 第095104795號專利申請案補充、修正部分未劃線之說明書替換頁 替換日期:100年8月 氯化鈣對氯化鉀之重量比例範圍為1 〇 : 1至i : 5。 11. 如請求項9之組合物,其中組合物進一步包含氣化鉀且 氯化鈣對氣化鉀之重量比例為4 : 1 » 12. 如請求項u之組合物,其中氯化鈣對氣化鎂之重量比例 範圍為2 : 1至2 : 3。 13. 如請求項u之組合物,其中氣化鈣對氯化鎂之重量比例 為 1 : 1 〇 14.如明求項12之組合物,其中氯化鈣對溴化鉀 為4 : 15.如印求項丨之組合物,其中組合物為乳液之形式。 16·如請求項15之組合物,其中組合物進—步包含相對組合 物總重量為2至3〇重量%之乳化界面活性劑。 月求項16之組合物’其中乳化界面活性劑為選自由以 :、·且成之群組之非離子界面活性劑:脂肪酸、脂肪醇、 聚2孔化硬脂醇或鯨蠟基硬脂醇、蔗糖之脂肪酸酯、烷 基葡萄糖酯、及其混合物。 18·如明求項16之組合物,其中乳化界面活性劑為選自由以 二且成之群組之陰離子界面活性劑:經胺、教水或驗鹽 之Cw-Cm脂肪酸、及其混合物。 19.如請求項Μ 人 〇1〇3%。之、“物’其中二價妈離子之重量為 Μ之組合物’進'步包含:固醇化合物。 月、項20之組合物,其中固醇化合物為膽固醇或植物 1352595 替換版I第095104795號專利申請案補充、修正部分未劃線之說明書替換頁 替換日期:100年8月 甾醇。 22.如請求項15之組合物,進一步包含:按組合物總重量計 為0.002-6% w/w之重量之胺基酸。 ' 23.如請求項15之組合物,其進一步包含:按組合物總重量 計為0.01-10% w/w之重量之可溶性膠蛋白。 24·如請求項1之組合物,其中組合物為洗劑、凝膠、油包水 乳液、水包油乳液、三重乳液、奈米膠囊、脂質體、奈 • 米乳液、或油溶體之形式。 25. 如請求項1之組合物,其中組合物具儲存安定性。 26. 如請求項1之組合物,其中組合物係成為保養乳霜、乳 • 汁、爽膚劑、清潔或卸妝產品、面膜、擦拭產品、剝脫 • 劑、防曬產品、粉底、染髮劑、或口紅之形式。 27. 如請求項1之組合物,其中組合物為水性或水凝膠之形 式。 28. 如請求項27之組合物,其中組合物進一步包含增稠劑。 • 29.如請求項28之組合物,其中增稠劑係選自由以下組成之 群組:碳合物、纖維素為主材料、膠、海藻素、瓜爾膠、 果膠、鹿角菜苷、明膠、礦物性或經改質礦物性增稠劑、 聚乙二醇、多醇、與聚丙烯醯胺。 30.如請求項27之組合物,其中二價鈣離子之重量為 0.05-0.8%。 3
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| US11/275,994 US7300649B2 (en) | 2005-02-11 | 2006-02-08 | Cosmetic and cosmeceutical compositions for restoration of skin barrier function |
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| TWI352595B true TWI352595B (en) | 2011-11-21 |
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| EP (1) | EP1853216A2 (zh) |
| JP (1) | JP2008530126A (zh) |
| CA (1) | CA2597640A1 (zh) |
| TW (1) | TWI352595B (zh) |
| WO (1) | WO2006086740A2 (zh) |
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2006
- 2006-02-08 US US11/275,994 patent/US7300649B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2006-02-09 WO PCT/US2006/004950 patent/WO2006086740A2/en not_active Ceased
- 2006-02-09 JP JP2007555302A patent/JP2008530126A/ja not_active Withdrawn
- 2006-02-09 CA CA002597640A patent/CA2597640A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2006-02-09 EP EP06720673A patent/EP1853216A2/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2006-02-13 TW TW095104795A patent/TWI352595B/zh active
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP2008530126A (ja) | 2008-08-07 |
| US7300649B2 (en) | 2007-11-27 |
| WO2006086740A3 (en) | 2007-01-18 |
| TW200640475A (en) | 2006-12-01 |
| WO2006086740A2 (en) | 2006-08-17 |
| CA2597640A1 (en) | 2006-08-17 |
| US20060182770A1 (en) | 2006-08-17 |
| EP1853216A2 (en) | 2007-11-14 |
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