TW202034890A - 油中水型皮膚外用組成物 - Google Patents
油中水型皮膚外用組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- TW202034890A TW202034890A TW108133004A TW108133004A TW202034890A TW 202034890 A TW202034890 A TW 202034890A TW 108133004 A TW108133004 A TW 108133004A TW 108133004 A TW108133004 A TW 108133004A TW 202034890 A TW202034890 A TW 202034890A
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- skin external
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Abstract
本發明之油中水型皮膚外用組成物係包含含有油溶性皮膚外用成分及油性溶劑的油性成分與含有水溶性聚合物的水性成分。水溶性聚合物包含選自羧基乙烯基聚合物、聚丙烯酸、聚(2-丙烯醯胺-2-甲基丙烷磺酸)及此等的鹽所構成之群組中的至少1者。油性溶劑在油性成分中的含有率,相對於油性成分的質量為50質量%以上。油性溶劑對於油溶性皮膚外用成分的溶解度低於癸二酸二異丙酯。
Description
本發明係根據日本專利申請案:日本特願2018-173099號(2018年9月14日提出申請)的優先權主張,並將同申請案的所有記載內容引用並記載於本說明書。
本揭示係關於油中水型皮膚外用組成物。例如,本揭示係關於含有紫外線吸收劑等油溶性皮膚外用成分的油中水型皮膚外用組成物。
作為調配有皮膚外用成分的化妝料,例如具有防曬化妝料。防曬化妝料中,調配有紫外線吸收劑以作為皮膚外用成分(例如參照專利文獻1及2)。
專利文獻1中,揭示了一種水中油型乳化防曬化妝料,其含有(a)油溶性紫外線吸收劑、(b)水溶性增稠劑、(c)水溶性紫外線吸收劑、及(d)選自脂肪酸PEG甘油酯系界面活性劑、氫化蓖麻油系界面活性劑、PEG/PPG烷醚系界面活性劑之中的1種或2種以上的親水性非離子性界面活性劑。
專利文獻2中嘗試提高水中油型的防曬化妝料中之紫外線吸收劑的效果。專利文獻2揭示一種水中油型的防曬化妝料,其係藉由將屬於水溶性紫外線吸收劑的苯基苯并咪唑磺酸與屬於苯基苯并咪唑磺酸之中和劑的N,N,N’,N’-肆(2-羥丙基)乙二胺組合,以提高防曬係數(SPF;Sun Protection Factor)。
專利文獻3揭示一種油中水型乳化防曬化妝料,其含有(a)洋菜及/或琥珀聚糖0.05至5質量%、(b)紫外線吸收劑0.01至30質量%,化妝料的黏度為10,000mPa.s(30℃,B型黏度計)以下,水相在45質量%以下,其促進了上述(b)成分所具有的紫外線吸收能。
[專利文獻1]日本特開2008-162930號公報
[專利文獻2]日本特開2011-111444號公報
[專利文獻3]日本專利第4902752號公報
以下的分析係由本揭示的觀點而進行。
在將調配有皮膚外用成分的皮膚外用組成物塗布於皮膚時,若皮膚外用成分的分佈不均勻,則無法充分發揮皮膚外用成分的效用。亦即,只要能使將皮膚外用成分均勻(均等)地分佈在皮膚上,即可進一步提高皮膚外用成分的
效用。例如,在含有紫外線吸收劑的防曬化妝料中,只要能夠使紫外線吸收劑均勻地分佈於塗布區域,則被認為可進一步提高抗紫外線效果。
專利文獻1及2記載之水中油型組成物,難以調配足量的油溶性皮膚外用成分。又,亦難以藉由塗布使溶解於油相粒子中的油溶性皮膚外用成分均勻地分散。因此,在水中油型組成物中,難以得到油溶性皮膚外用成分的充分作用。
提高專利文獻2之抗紫外線效果的方法,係對於特定的水溶性紫外線吸收劑有用的手段,並非是通用性的方法。又,紫外線吸收劑,一般為有機化合物,大多為非水溶性(油溶性)者。專利文獻2記載的方法並無法應用於油溶性的紫外線吸收劑。
又,要求一種相較於專利文獻3記載的洋菜及琥珀聚糖更能有效提高油溶性皮膚外用成分之效果的添加物。
於是,要求一種可更有效率地發揮油溶性皮膚外用成分之效用的油中水型皮膚外用組成物。
根據本揭示的第1視點,提供一種油中水型皮膚外用組成物,其含有油溶性紫外線吸收劑與水溶性聚合物。水溶性聚合物係包含選自羧基乙烯基聚合物、聚丙烯酸、聚(2-丙烯醯胺-2-甲基丙烷磺酸)及此等的鹽所構成之群組中的至少1者。
根據本揭示的第2視點,提供一種油中水型皮膚外用組成物,其含有包含油溶性皮膚外用成分及油性溶劑的油性成分與包含水溶性聚合物的水性成分。水溶性聚合物係包含選自羧基乙烯基聚合物、聚丙烯酸、聚(2-丙烯醯胺-
2-甲基丙烷磺酸)及此等的鹽所構成之群組中的至少1者。相對於油性成分的質量,油性成分中的油性溶劑之含有率為50質量%以上。油性溶劑對於油溶性皮膚外用成分的溶解度低於癸二酸二異丙酯。
根據本揭示的油中水型組成物,可使油溶性皮膚外用成分(例如紫外線吸收劑)的效用更充分地發揮。
上述各視點的較佳形態記載如下。
根據上述第1視點的較佳形態,油溶性紫外線吸收劑包含奧克立林、甲基水楊醇(homosalate)、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、及水楊酸乙基己酯之中的至少1者。
根據上述第1視點的較佳形態,油中水型組成物更包含15質量%至50質量%的揮發性聚矽氧油及揮發性烴油之中的至少一者。揮發性聚矽氧油及揮發性烴油之中的至少一者,其對於油溶性紫外線吸收劑的溶解度低於癸二酸二異丙酯。
根據上述第2視點的較佳形態,油性溶劑包含揮發性聚矽氧油及揮發性烴油之中的至少一者。
根據上述第2視點的較佳形態,油溶性皮膚外用成分包含紫外線吸收劑。
根據上述第2視點的較佳形態,紫外線吸收劑包含奧克立林、甲基水楊醇、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯及水楊酸乙基己酯之中的至少1者。
根據上述第1及第2視點的較佳形態,相對於組成物的質量,水溶性聚合物包含0.02質量%至2質量%的聚丙烯酸及其鹽之中的至少1者。聚丙烯酸的重量平均分子量為50萬至800萬。聚丙烯酸中分子量在1000萬以上的聚合物之含有率在10質量%以下。
以下的說明中,POE為聚氧乙烯的簡稱,POP為聚氧丙烯的簡稱,POE或POP後方括號內的數字,表示該化合物中的POE基或POP基的平均加成莫耳數。
本揭示中,「實質量」意指可產生由添加該化合物所得到之作用效果的量。
針對本揭示的第1實施態樣之乳化型皮膚外用組成物進行說明。
第1實施態樣之油中水型皮膚外用組成物含有油性成分與水性成分。油性成分包含油溶性皮膚外用劑與油性溶劑。水性成分包含水溶性聚合物與可溶解水溶性聚合物的水性溶劑。
[(A)油溶性皮膚外用劑]
作為油溶性皮膚外用劑,可列舉例如:紫外線吸收劑;視黃醇、乙酸視黃醇酯、棕櫚酸視黃醇酯等維生素A或該等的衍生物;α-生育酚、γ-生育酚、δ-生育酚、菸鹼酸生育酚酯、乙酸生育酚酯等維生素E或該等的衍生物;抗壞血酸棕櫚酸酯、抗壞血酸硬脂酸酯等油溶性維生素C衍生物等。
作為油溶性紫外線吸收劑,可列舉例如:苯甲酸系紫外線吸收劑(例如:對胺基苯甲酸(以下簡稱為PABA)、PABA單甘油酯、N,N-二丙氧基PABA乙酯、N,N-二乙氧基PABA乙酯、N,N-二甲基PABA乙酯、N,N-二甲基PABA丁酯、N,N-二甲基PABA乙酯等);鄰胺苯甲酸系紫外線吸收劑(例如:三甲基環己
基-N-乙醯基鄰胺苯甲酸酯等);水楊酸系紫外線吸收劑(例如:水楊酸戊酯、水楊酸薄荷酯、水楊酸三甲基環己酯、水楊酸辛酯、水楊酸苯酯、水楊酸苄酯、水楊酸對異丙醇苯酯、甲基水楊醇等);肉桂酸系紫外線吸收劑(例如:甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯、4-異丙基肉桂酸乙酯、2,5-二異丙基肉桂酸甲酯、2,4-二異丙基肉桂酸乙酯、2,4-二異丙基肉桂酸甲酯、對甲氧基肉桂酸丙酯、對甲氧基肉桂酸異丙酯、對甲氧基肉桂酸異戊酯、對甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯(對甲氧基肉桂酸2-乙基己酯、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯)、對甲氧基肉桂酸2-乙氧基乙酯、對甲氧基肉桂酸環己酯、α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸乙酯、α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸2-乙基己酯、甘油基單-2-乙基己醯基-二對甲氧基肉桂酸酯等);3-(4’-甲基苯亞甲基)-d,l-樟腦、3-苯亞甲基-d,l-樟腦;2-苯基-5-甲基苯并唑;2,2’-羥基-5-甲基苯基苯并三唑;2-(2’-羥基-5’-第三辛基苯基)苯并三唑;2-(2’-羥基-5’-甲基苯基苯并三唑;二雙亞苄肼;二大茴香醯基甲烷;4-甲氧基-4’-第三丁基二苯甲醯基甲烷;5-(3,3-二甲基-2-亞降莰基)-3-戊烷-2-酮、二N-嗎啉基嗒酮;2-乙基己基-2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸酯(奧克立林);2,4-雙-{[4-(2-乙基己基氧基)-2-羥基]-苯基}-6-(4-甲氧基苯基)-(1,3,5)-三、二苯甲酮系紫外線吸收劑(例如:2,4-二羥基二苯甲酮、2,2’-二羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、2,2’-二羥基-4,4’-二甲氧基二苯甲酮、2,2’,4,4’-四羥基二苯甲酮、2-羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、2-羥基-4-甲氧基-4’-甲基二苯甲酮、2-羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮-5-磺酸鹽、4-苯基二苯甲酮、2-乙基己基-4’-苯基-二苯甲酮-2-羧酸酯、2-羥基-4-正辛氧基二苯甲酮、4-羥基-3-羧基二苯甲酮等)等。
上述紫外線吸收劑之中,從後述水溶性聚合物之作用的觀點來看,紫外線吸收劑較佳係包含奧克立林、甲基水楊醇、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯及水楊酸乙基己酯之中的至少1者。
組成物中的油溶性皮膚外用成分的含有率,可因應目的適當地設定。例如,油溶性皮膚外用成分為紫外線吸收劑時,相對於組成物的質量,油溶性皮膚外用成分的含有率可為1質量%以上、2質量%以上、3質量%以上或5質量%以上。相對於組成物的質量,油溶性皮膚外用成分的含有率可為15質量%以下,12質量%以下,10質量%以下或8質量%以下。
[(B)水溶性聚合物]
作為水溶性聚合物,例如可使用以下列舉的化合物。作為水溶性聚合物,可應用作為增稠劑使用的化合物。水溶性聚合物亦可包含鹽的形態。水溶性聚合物,在油中水型組成物塗布於皮膚時,認為具有使組成物中的(A)皮膚外用成分更均勻(均等)地分佈於皮膚的作用。
作為水溶性聚合物,例如包含羧基乙烯基聚合物,聚丙烯酸,聚(2-丙烯醯胺-2-甲基丙烷磺酸)及此等的鹽之中的至少1者。尤其是,水溶性聚合物較佳為分子量(的分佈)經過控制的聚合物。藉由使用分子量經控制的聚合物,可更提高皮膚外用劑的效用。認為藉由分子量經控制的聚合物可更提高油中水型組成物塗布於皮膚時(A)皮膚外用成分的分佈均勻性。關於分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物,可援用WO2015/052804號的記載。
羧基乙烯基聚合物、聚丙烯酸、聚(2-丙烯醯胺-2-甲基丙烷磺酸)及此等的鹽,相較於其它水溶性聚合物,可有效率地提高油溶性皮膚外用成分的效用。
作為鹽的種類,可列舉例如:鹼金屬鹽(例如鈉鹽、鉀鹽、鎂鹽、鈣鹽等),有機胺鹽(例如單乙醇胺鹽、二乙醇胺鹽、三乙醇胺鹽、三異丙醇胺鹽等),及2-胺基-2-甲基-1-丙醇、2-胺基-2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇、2-胺基-2-羥基甲基-1,3-
丙二醇、L-精胺酸、L-離胺酸、L-烷基牛磺酸等含鹼性氮之化合物的鹽等。其中,較佳為一價的鹼金屬鹽及有機胺鹽,更佳為鈉鹽、鉀鹽、三乙醇胺鹽,最佳為鈉鹽。
針對分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物進行說明。分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物,其重量平均分子量較佳為50萬以上。分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物,其重量平均分子量較佳為800萬以下。分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物中,分子量在1000萬以上的聚合物較佳為整體的10質量%以下。分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物,其主要的高分子鏈較佳為直鏈狀。分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物,其分子量分佈(=重量平均分子量/數量平均分子量)較佳為2以下,更佳為1.8以下。
作為分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物的例子,可列舉後述以RAFT聚合法所合成之聚合物。作為單體,可使用例如:丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸、丙烯酸烷酯、甲基丙烯酸烷酯、丙烯酸酯等丙烯酸系單體;丙烯醯胺、二甲基丙烯醯胺等丙烯醯胺系單體;乙烯醇、乙烯吡咯啶酮、乙酸乙烯酯、羧基乙烯、乙烯甲醚等乙烯系單體;苯乙烯;胺基甲酸乙酯及該等組合之中的至少1者。對單體加成有聚乙二醇、聚矽氧系高分子化合物等以作為側鏈的巨分子單體,亦可較佳地用作構成單元。分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物,可為均聚物,亦可為共聚物。尤其是,分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物,較佳係以丙烯酸及/或2-丙烯醯胺-2-甲基丙烷磺酸作為單體的均聚物或共聚物,或此等的鹽。
分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物,可藉由習知的活性聚合法合成。活性聚合係可列舉:活性陰離子聚合、活性陽離子聚合、活性自由基聚合(精密自由基聚合或控制自由基聚合)。活性自由基聚合係可列舉:氮氧自由基媒介的
(自由基)聚合、氮氧自由基媒介(自由基)聚合(NLRP)、原子轉移自由基聚合(ATRP)、可逆加成-斷裂鏈轉移(RAFT)聚合等。原子轉移自由基聚合(ATRP),可列舉:源自電子轉移的活化劑ATRP或藉由電子轉移所產生之活化劑ATRP(AGET ATRP)、源自電子轉移的再生活化劑ATRP或藉由電子轉移而再生的活化劑ATRP(ARGET ATRP)、用於連續再生活性種的起始劑ATRP或活化劑會經常性地再生的起始劑ATRP(ICAR ATRP)、反向ATRP(Reverse ATRP)。作為可逆加成-斷裂鏈轉移(RAFT)聚合的衍生技術,可列舉:以有機碲作為成長末端的活性自由基聚合、或有機碲媒介活性自由基聚合(TERP)、銻媒介活性自由基聚合(SBRP)、鉍媒介活性自由基聚合(BIRP)。作為其它活性自由基聚合,可列舉碘轉移自由基聚合(IRP)、鈷媒介自由基聚合(CMRP)等。其中,從可合成分子量分佈狹窄之高分子化合物的觀點來看,更佳為使用可逆加成-斷裂鏈轉移聚合法(RAFT聚合法)。鏈轉移劑較佳為二硫型、三硫型。聚合起始劑較佳係化學結構與鏈轉移劑相近者,較佳為偶氮系起始劑。聚合溶劑無特別限定,可適當地選擇對單體、聚合物之溶解性高者。聚合時間較佳為數小時至100小時左右。
分子量經控制的水溶性聚合物的分子量,針對重量平均分子量可藉由光散射法、超離心法、層析法等進行測定,而針對數量平均分子量可藉由滲透壓法、層析法等習知方法進行測定。其中,從以少量的試料即可簡便地得到重量平均分子量、數量平均分子量及分子量分佈的觀點來看,較佳為層析法,更佳為凝膠滲透層析法(以下簡稱GPC)。分子量分佈可用經由GPC解析所得之重量平均分子量除以數量平均分子量而得到的值表示。
相對於組成物的質量,水溶性聚合物的含有率較佳為0.02質量%以上,更佳為0.05質量%以上,又更佳為0.08質量%以上。水溶性聚合物若小
於0.02質量%時,則無法提高皮膚外用成分的效用。相對於組成物的質量,水溶性聚合物的含有率較佳為2質量%以下,更佳為1質量%以下,又更佳為0.5質量%以下。
除了上述水溶性聚合物以外,亦可更包含以下列舉之水溶性成分。
作為天然的水溶性聚合物,可列舉例如:植物系高分子(例如:阿拉伯膠、黃蓍膠、半乳聚糖、瓜爾膠、角豆膠、刺梧桐膠、角叉菜膠、果膠、瓊脂、榅桲籽(木梨)、海藻膠(褐藻萃取物)、澱粉(米、玉米、馬鈴薯、小麥)、甘草酸);微生物系高分子(例如:黃原膠、聚葡萄醣、琥珀醯葡聚糖、聚三葡萄糖(pullulan)等);動物系高分子(例如:膠原蛋白、酪蛋白、白蛋白、明膠等)等。
作為半合成的水溶性聚合物,可列舉例如:澱粉系高分子(例如:羧甲基澱粉、甲基羥丙基澱粉等);纖維素系高分子(甲基纖維素、乙基纖維素、甲基羥丙基纖維素、羥乙基纖維素、纖維素硫酸鈉、羥丙基纖維素、羧甲基纖維素、羧甲基纖維素鈉、結晶纖維素、纖維素粉末等);海藻酸系高分子(例如:海藻酸鈉、海藻酸丙二醇酯等)等。
作為合成的水溶性聚合物,可列舉例如:乙烯系高分子(例如:聚乙烯醇、聚乙烯甲醚、聚乙烯吡咯啶酮、羧基乙烯基聚合物等);聚氧乙烯系高分子(例如:聚乙二醇20,000、40,000、60,000的聚氧乙烯聚氧丙烯共聚物等);丙烯酸系高分子(例如:聚丙烯酸鈉、聚丙烯酸乙酯、聚丙烯醯胺等);聚乙亞胺;陽離子聚合物等。
作為增稠劑,可列舉例如:阿拉伯膠、角叉菜膠、刺梧桐膠、黃蓍膠、角豆膠、榅桲籽(木梨)、酪蛋白、糊精、明膠、果膠酸鈉、海藻酸鈉、甲
基纖維素、乙基纖維素、羧甲基纖維素(CMC)、羥乙基纖維素、羥丙基纖維素、聚乙烯醇(PVA)、聚乙烯基甲醚(PVM)、PVP(聚乙烯吡咯啶酮)、聚丙烯酸鈉、羧基乙烯基聚合物、刺槐豆膠、瓜爾膠、羅望子膠、二烷基二甲基銨硫酸纖維素、黃原膠、矽酸鋁鎂、膨潤土、鋰膨潤石、矽酸鋁鎂(Veegum)、合成鋰皂石(laponite)、無水矽酸、牛磺酸鹽(taurate)系合成高分子、丙烯酸酯系合成高分子等。
[(C)油性溶劑]
油性溶劑的至少一部分,較佳為可溶解油溶性皮膚外用成分者。油性溶劑,只要整體為液狀即可,可含有固體成分。作為油性溶劑,可使用例如液體油脂、固體油脂、蠟、烴、高級脂肪酸、高級醇、合成酯油、聚矽氧油等。
作為液體油脂,可列舉例如:鰐梨油、山茶油、龜油、澳洲堅果油、玉米油、貂油、橄欖油、菜籽油、蛋黃油、麻油、桃仁油、小麥胚芽油、山茶花油、蓖麻油、亞麻仁油、紅花油、棉籽油、紫蘇油、大豆油、花生油、茶籽油、榧子油、米糠油、中國桐油、日本桐油、荷荷巴油、胚芽油、三酸甘油酯等。
作為固體油脂,可列舉例如:可可脂、椰子油、馬脂、硬化椰子油、棕櫚油、牛脂、羊脂、硬化牛脂、棕櫚仁油、豬脂、牛骨脂、木蠟核油、硬化油、牛腳脂、木蠟、硬化蓖麻油等。
作為蠟類,可列舉例如:蜜蠟、小燭樹蠟、棉蠟、巴西棕櫚蠟、楊梅蠟、蟲蠟、鯨蠟、褐煤蠟、米糠蠟、羊毛脂、木棉蠟、乙酸羊毛脂、液狀羊毛脂、蔗蠟、羊毛脂脂肪酸異丙酯、月桂酸己酯、還原羊毛脂、荷荷巴蠟、硬質羊毛脂、蟲膠蠟、POE羊毛脂醇醚、POE羊毛脂醇乙酸酯、POE膽固醇醚、羊毛脂脂肪酸聚乙二醇、POE氫化羊毛脂醇醚等。
作為烴油,可列舉例如:液態石蠟、地蠟、鯊烷、姥鮫烷、石蠟、純地蠟、鯊烯、凡士林、微晶蠟等。
作為高級脂肪酸,可列舉例如:月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕櫚酸、硬脂酸、山萮酸、油酸、十一碳烯酸、妥爾酸、異硬脂酸、亞油酸、亞麻仁油酸、二十碳五烯酸(EPA)、二十二碳六烯酸(DHA)等。
作為高級醇,可使用例如:直鏈醇(例如:月桂醇、鯨蠟醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇、肉豆蔻醇、油醇、鯨蠟硬脂醇等);支鏈醇(例如:單硬脂基甘油醚(鯊肝醇)、2-癸基十四烷醇、羊毛脂醇、膽固醇、植物醇、己基十二烷醇、異硬脂醇、辛基十二烷醇等)等。
作為合成酯油,可列舉:肉豆蔻酸異丙酯、辛酸鯨蠟酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕櫚酸異丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸癸酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸酯、乳酸鯨蠟酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、乙酸羊毛脂、硬脂酸異鯨蠟酯、異硬脂酸異鯨蠟酯、12-羥基硬脂酸膽固醇酯、乙二醇二-2-乙基己酸酯、二新戊四醇脂肪酸酯、N-烷二醇單異硬脂酸酯、新戊二醇二癸酸酯、蘋果酸二異硬脂基酯、二-2-庚基十一烷酸甘油酯、三羥甲基丙烷三-2-乙基己酸酯、三羥甲基丙烷三異硬脂酸酯、新戊四醇四-2-乙基己酸酯、三-2-乙基己酸甘油酯、三辛酸甘油酯、三異棕櫚酸甘油酯、三羥甲基丙烷三異硬脂酸酯、鯨蠟基2-乙基己酸酯、2-乙基己基棕櫚酸酯、三肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、三-2-庚基十一烷酸甘油酯、蓖麻油脂肪酸甲酯、油酸油酯、乙酸甘油酯、棕櫚酸2-庚基十一烷基酯、己二酸二異丁酯、N-月桂醯基-L-麩胺酸-2-辛基十二烷基酯、己二酸二-2-庚基十一烷基酯、月桂酸乙酯、癸二酸二-2-乙基己酯、肉豆蔻酸2-己基癸酯、棕櫚酸
2-己基癸酯、己二酸2-己基癸酯、癸二酸二異丙酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己酯、檸檬酸三乙酯等。
作為聚矽氧油,可列舉:二甲基聚矽氧烷、甲基氫聚矽氧烷、甲基苯基聚矽氧烷、硬脂氧基甲基聚矽氧烷、聚醚改性有機聚矽氧烷、氟烷基/聚氧基伸烷基共改性有機聚矽氧烷、烷基改性有機聚矽氧烷、末端改性有機聚矽氧烷、氟改性有機聚矽氧烷、胺基改性有機聚矽氧烷、聚矽氧凝膠、丙烯酸聚矽氧、三甲基矽烷氧基矽酸、聚矽氧RTV橡膠、環五矽氧烷等聚矽氧化合物等。
油性溶劑較佳係含有揮發性油性成分。揮發性油性成分,可為能夠溶解油溶性皮膚外用成分(例如油溶性紫外線吸收劑)者,亦可為難以溶解油溶性皮膚外用成分者。作為揮發性油性成分可列舉:烴、聚矽氧油等。作為揮發性油性成分,可列舉例如:直鏈狀聚矽氧油(例如:揮發性二甲基聚矽氧烷(dimethicone))、揮發性的環狀聚矽氧油(例如:揮發性環甲基聚矽氧烷)、異十二烷、異十六烷等。
水溶性聚合物的作用不取決於油溶性皮膚外用成分於油性溶劑中的溶解度及/或揮發性。然而,油溶性皮膚外用成分於油性溶劑中的溶解度低及/或揮發性高時,被認為會導致油溶性皮膚外用成分的效用亦降低。該效用降低被認為與因為低溶解度及/或高揮發性導致不均勻分佈塗布有關。因此,主要使用油溶性皮膚外用成分的溶解度低及/或揮發性高的油性溶劑的組成物,更能夠使水溶性聚合物的作用呈現。
作為揮發性油性成分,可使用例如油溶性皮膚外用成分的溶解度低於癸二酸二異丙酯的溶劑。又,作為揮發性油性成分,可選擇相對於溶劑100g在0℃時於雙乙基己氧基酚甲氧基苯基三中的溶解度為1g以下的溶劑。若油
溶性皮膚外用成分的溶解度低及/或油性溶劑的揮發性高時,則難以使油溶性皮膚外用成分均勻地分佈於施用區域。然而,根據本揭示,即使在使用這種油性溶劑的情況,亦可以使油溶性皮膚外用成分均勻地分佈於施用區域而塗布。
油溶性皮膚外用成分對揮發性油性成分之溶解性低時,可藉由組成物中的其它成分溶解油溶性皮膚外用成分。
油性溶劑中,相對於油性溶劑的質量,揮發性油性成分所占的比率可為50質量%以上、60質量%以上、70質量%以上、80質量%以上或90質量%以上。
相對於組成物的質量,揮發性油性成分的含有率較佳為15質量%以上,更佳為20質量%以上。相對於組成物的質量,揮發性油性成分的含有率可為50質量%以下,40質量%以下或30質量%以下。揮發性油性成分的含有率,可因應用途而適當地設定。
相對於組成物的質量,油性溶劑的含有率可為15質量%以上、20質量%以上或30質量%以上。相對於組成物的質量,油性溶劑的含有率可為60質量%以下,50質量%以下或40質量%以下。油性溶劑的含有率,可因應用途而適當地設定。
[(D)水性溶劑]
水性溶劑的至少一部分為可溶解水溶性聚合物者。水性溶劑較佳係含有水。作為水,可使用化妝料、類藥品(quasi drug)等之中所使用的水,例如可使用精製水、離子交換水、自來水等。
水性溶劑可更包含水溶性醇。作為水溶性醇,可列舉例如選自低級醇、多元醇、多元醇聚合物、二價之醇烷醚類、二元醇烷醚類、二元醇醚酯、甘油單烷醚、糖醇、單糖、低聚糖、多糖及該等的衍生物等之中的至少1者。
作為低級醇,可列舉例如:乙醇、丙醇、異丙醇、異丁醇、第三丁醇等。
作為多元醇,可列舉例如:二元醇(例如:乙二醇、丙二醇、三亞甲二醇、1,2-丁二醇、1,3-丁二醇、四亞甲二醇、2,3-丁二醇、五亞甲二醇、2-丁烯-1,4-二醇、己二醇、辛二醇等);三元醇(例如:甘油、三羥甲基丙烷等);四元醇(例如:1,2,6-己三醇等的新戊四醇等);五元醇(例如:木糖醇等);六元醇(例如:山梨糖醇、甘露糖醇等);多元醇聚合物(例如:二乙二醇、二丙二醇、三乙二醇、聚丙二醇、四乙二醇、二甘油、聚乙二醇、三甘油、四甘油、聚甘油等);二價之醇烷醚類(例如:乙二醇單甲醚、乙二醇單乙醚、乙二醇單丁醚、乙二醇單苯醚、乙二醇單己醚、乙二醇單2-甲基己醚、乙二醇異戊醚、乙二醇苯甲醚、乙二醇異丙醚、乙二醇二甲醚、乙二醇二乙醚、乙二醇二丁醚等);二元醇烷醚類(例如:二乙二醇單甲醚、二乙二醇單乙醚、二乙二醇單丁醚、二乙二醇二甲醚、二乙二醇二乙醚、二乙二醇丁醚、二乙二醇甲基乙醚、三乙二醇單甲醚、三乙二醇單乙醚、丙二醇單甲醚、丙二醇單乙醚、丙二醇單丁醚、丙二醇異丙醚、二丙二醇甲醚、二丙二醇乙醚、二丙二醇丁醚等);二元醇醚酯(例如:乙二醇單甲醚乙酸酯、乙二醇單乙醚乙酸酯、乙二醇單丁醚乙酸酯、乙二醇單苯醚乙酸酯、乙二醇二己二酸酯、乙二醇二琥珀酸酯、二乙二醇單乙醚乙酸酯、二乙二醇單丁醚乙酸酯、丙二醇單甲醚乙酸酯、丙二醇單乙醚乙酸酯、丙二醇單丙醚乙酸酯、丙二醇單苯醚乙酸酯等);甘油單烷醚(例如:鮫肝醇、鯊油醇、鯊肝醇等);糖醇(例
如:山梨糖醇、麥芽糖醇、麥芽三糖、甘露糖醇、蔗糖、赤蘚糖醇、葡萄糖、果糖、澱粉分解糖、麥芽糖、木糖醇、澱粉分解糖還原醇等);乙交酯(glycolide);四氫糠醇;POE-四氫糠醇;POP-丁醚;POP/POE-丁醚;三聚氧丙烯甘油醚;POP-甘油醚;POP-甘油醚磷酸;POP/POE-新戊四醇醚、聚甘油等。
作為單糖,可列舉例如:選自三碳糖(例如:D-甘油醛、二羥基丙酮等)、四碳糖(例如:D-赤藻糖、D-赤藻酮糖、D-異赤藻糖、赤藻糖醇等)、五碳糖(例如:L-阿拉伯糖、D-木糖、L-來蘇糖、D-阿拉伯糖、D-核糖、D-核酮糖、D-木酮糖、L-木酮糖等)、六碳糖(例如:D-葡萄糖、D-塔羅糖、D-阿洛酮糖、D-半乳糖、D-果糖、L-半乳糖、L-甘露糖、D-塔格糖等)、七碳糖(例如:醛庚糖、庚酮糖等)、八碳糖(例如:辛酮糖等)、脫氧糖(例如:2-脫氧-D-核糖、6-脫氧-L-半乳糖、6-脫氧-L-甘露糖等)、胺基糖(例如:D-葡萄胺糖、D-半乳胺糖、唾液酸、胺基糖醛酸、胞壁酸等)、糖醛酸(例如D-葡萄糖醛酸、D-甘露糖醛酸、L-古洛糖醛酸、D-半乳糖醛酸、L-艾杜糖醛酸等)等之中的至少1者。
作為低聚糖,可列舉例如:選自蔗糖、龍膽三糖、傘形糖、乳糖、車前糖、異剪秋羅糖類、α,α-海藻糖、棉子糖、剪秋羅糖類、石耳素(umbilicin)、水蘇糖、毛蕊草糖類等之中的至少1者。
作為多糖,可列舉例如:選自纖維素、榅桲籽、硫酸軟骨膠、澱粉、聚半乳糖、硫酸皮膚素、肝糖、阿拉伯膠、硫酸乙醯肝素、透明質酸、黃蓍膠、硫酸角質素、軟骨素、黃原膠、黏液素硫酸酯、瓜爾膠、聚葡萄糖、角質硫酸鹽、刺槐豆膠、琥珀醯葡聚糖、瓜呂仁酸(Charonic acid)等之中的至少1者。
作為其它多元醇,可列舉例如:選自聚氧乙烯甲基葡萄糖苷(Glucam E-10),聚氧丙烯甲基葡萄糖苷(Glucam P-10)等之中的至少1者。
例如,相對於組成物的質量,水性溶劑的含有率可為10質量%以上,20質量%以上,或30質量%以上。相對於組成物的質量,水性溶劑的含有率可為例如60質量%以下,50質量%以下,或40質量%以下。水性溶劑的含有率可因應用途而適當地設定。
油性成分與水性成分的比率可適當地設定。
[(E)界面活性劑]
本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物可更包含界面活性劑。作為界面活性劑的例子,可列舉以下的界面活性劑。
[陰離子性界面活性劑]
作為陰離子性界面活性劑,可使用例如:脂肪酸皂(例如:月桂酸鈉、棕櫚酸鈉等);高級烷基硫酸酯鹽(例如:月桂基硫酸鈉、月桂基硫酸鉀等);烷醚硫酸酯鹽(例如:POE-月桂基硫酸三乙醇胺、POE-月桂基硫酸鈉等);N-醯基肌胺酸(例如:月桂醯基肌胺酸鈉等);高級脂肪醯胺磺酸鹽(例如:N-硬脂醯基-N-甲基牛磺酸鈉、N-肉豆蔻醯基-N-甲基牛磺酸鈉、椰子油脂肪酸甲酯牛磺酸鈉、月桂基甲基牛磺酸鈉等);磷酸酯鹽(POE-油基醚磷酸鈉、POE-硬脂基醚磷酸等);磺基琥珀酸鹽(例如:二-2-乙基己基磺基琥珀酸鈉、單月桂醯基單乙醇醯胺聚氧乙烯磺基琥珀酸鈉、月桂基聚丙二醇磺基琥珀酸鈉等);烷基苯磺酸鹽(例如:線性十二烷基苯磺酸鈉、線性十二烷基苯磺酸三乙醇胺、線性十二烷基苯磺酸等);高級脂肪酸酯硫酸酯鹽(例如:硬化椰子油脂肪酸甘油硫酸鈉等);N-醯基麩胺酸鹽(例如:N-月桂醯基麩胺酸單鈉、N-硬脂醯基麩胺酸二鈉、N-肉豆蔻醯基-L-麩胺酸單鈉等);硫酸化油(例如:土耳其紅油等);POE-烷醚羧酸;POE-烷基烯丙醚羧酸鹽;α-烯烴磺酸鹽;高級脂肪酸酯磺酸鹽;二級醇硫酸酯鹽;高級脂肪酸烷
醇醯胺硫酸酯鹽;月桂醯基單乙醇醯胺琥珀酸鈉;N-棕櫚醯基天冬胺酸二-三乙醇胺;酪蛋白鈉等。
[陽離子性界面活性劑]
作為陽離子性界面活性劑,可列舉例如:烷基三甲基銨鹽(例如:氯化硬脂醯基三甲基銨,氯化月桂基三甲基銨等);烷基吡啶鎓鹽(例如:氯化鯨蠟基吡啶鎓等);二烷基二甲基銨鹽(例如:氯化二硬脂基二甲基銨);氯化聚(N,N’-二甲基-3,5-亞甲基哌啶鎓);烷基四級銨鹽(烷基二甲基苯甲基銨鹽);烷基異喹啉鎓鹽;二烷基嗎啉鎓鹽;POE-烷胺;烷胺鹽;多胺脂肪酸衍生物;戊醇脂肪酸衍生物;氯化烷基二甲基苄基銨(benzalkonium chloride);氯化本索寧(benzethonium chloride)等。
[兩性界面活性劑]
作為兩性界面活性劑,可列舉例如:咪唑啉系兩性界面活性劑(例如:2-十一烷基-N,N,N-(羥乙基羧甲基)-2-咪唑啉鈉、2-椰油醯基-2-氫氧化咪唑啉鎓-1-羧基乙氧基2鈉鹽等);甜菜鹼系界面活性劑(例如:2-十七烷基-N-羧甲基-N-羥乙基咪唑啉鎓甜菜鹼、月桂基二甲胺基乙酸甜菜鹼、烷基甜菜鹼、醯胺甜菜鹼、磺基甜菜鹼等)等。
[親水性非離子性界面活性劑]
作為親水性非離子界面活性劑,可列舉例如:POE-山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯(例如:POE-山梨糖醇酐單油酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇酐單硬脂酸脂、POE-山梨糖醇酐單油酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇酐四油酸酯等);POE-山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯(例如:POE-山梨糖醇單月桂酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇單油酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇五油酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇單硬脂酸脂等);POE-甘油脂肪酸酯(例如:POE-甘油單硬脂酸脂、POE-
甘油單異硬脂酸脂、POE-甘油三異硬脂酸脂等POE-單油酸酯等);POE-脂肪酸酯(例如:POE-二硬脂酸脂、POE-單二油酸酯、二硬脂酸乙二醇酯等);POE-烷醚(例如:POE-月桂醚、POE-油基醚、POE-硬脂基醚、POE-山萮基醚、POE-2-辛基十二烷基醚、POE-二氫膽固醇醚等);普洛尼克(Pluronic)型(例如:普洛尼克等);POE/POP-烷醚(例如:POE/POP-鯨蠟醚、POE/POP-2-癸基十四烷基醚、POE/POP-單丁醚、POE/POP-氫化羊毛脂、POE/POP-甘油醚等);四POE/四POP-乙二胺縮合物(例如:Tetronic等);POE-蓖麻油硬化蓖麻油衍生物(例如:POE-蓖麻油、POE-硬化蓖麻油、POE-硬化蓖麻油單異硬脂酸脂、POE-硬化蓖麻油三異硬脂酸脂、POE-硬化蓖麻油單焦麩胺酸單異硬脂酸二酯、POE-硬化蓖麻油馬來酸等);POE-蜜蠟/羊毛脂衍生物(例如:POE-山梨糖醇蜜蠟等);烷醇醯胺(例如:椰子油脂肪酸二乙醇醯胺、月桂酸單乙醇醯胺、脂肪酸異丙醇醯胺等);POE-丙二醇脂肪酸酯;POE-烷胺;POE-脂肪醯胺;蔗糖脂肪酸酯;烷基乙氧基二甲胺氧化物;磷酸三油基酯等。
[親油性非離子性界面活性劑]
作為親油性非離子界面活性劑,可列舉例如:山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯(例如:山梨糖醇酐單油酸酯、山梨糖醇酐單異硬脂酸脂、山梨糖醇酐單月桂酸酯、山梨糖醇酐單棕櫚酸酯、山梨糖醇酐單硬脂酸脂、山梨糖醇酐倍半油酸酯、山梨糖醇酐三油酸酯、五-2-乙基己酸二甘油山梨糖醇酐、四-2-乙基己酸二甘油山梨糖醇酐等);聚甘油脂肪酸甘油酯(例如:單棉籽油脂肪酸甘油酯、單芥酸甘油酯、倍半油酸甘油酯、單硬脂酸甘油酯、α,α'-油酸焦麩胺酸甘油酯、蘋果酸單硬脂酸甘油酯等);丙二醇脂肪酸酯(例如:單硬脂酸丙二醇酯等);硬化蓖麻油衍生物;甘油烷醚等。
相對於組成物的質量,界面活性劑的含有率較佳為0.1質量%以上,更佳為0.5質量%以上。界面活性劑若小於0.1質量%,則無法得到乳化組成物。相對於組成物的質量,界面活性劑的含有率較佳為10質量%以下。界面活性劑的含有率若超過10質量%,則對皮膚的刺激變得太強。
[紫外線散射劑]
本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物可更含有紫外線散射劑。作為紫外線散射劑,可列舉以下列舉之粉末中的至少1者。
相對於組成物的質量,紫外線散射劑的含有率可為例如2質量%以上,5質量%以上或10質量%以上。例如相對於組成物的質量,紫外線散射劑的含有率可為20質量%以下,15質量%以下或10質量%以下。紫外線散射劑的含有率可因應用途而適當地設定。
[其它]
本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物中,在不阻礙本揭示之效果的範圍內,可因應需求適當地含有其它成分,例如粉體、保濕劑、水溶性高分子、增稠劑、被覆劑、水溶性紫外線吸收劑、螯合劑、胺基酸、有機胺、高分子乳液、pH調整劑、皮膚營養劑、維生素、抗氧化劑、抗氧化助劑、香料等。
本說明書中所使用之用語「粉體」與「粉末」同義。粉體只要係一般可用於化妝料用途等,則無特別限定。作為粉末,可使用例如:無機粉末(例如:滑石、高嶺土、雲母、絹雲母(sericite)、白雲母、金雲母、合成雲母、紅雲母、黑雲母、鋰氧雲母、煅燒雲母、煅燒滑石、蛭石、碳酸鎂、碳酸鈣、矽酸鋁、矽酸鋇、矽酸鈣、矽酸鎂、矽酸鍶、鎢酸金屬鹽、鎂、二氧化矽、沸石、玻璃、硫酸鋇、煅燒硫酸鈣(燒石膏)、磷酸鈣、氟磷灰石、羥基磷灰石、陶瓷粉末、金
屬皂(例如:肉豆蔻酸鋅、棕櫚酸鈣、硬脂酸鋁)、氮化硼等);有機粉末(例如:聚醯胺樹脂粉末(尼龍粉末)、聚乙烯粉末、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末、聚苯乙烯粉末、苯乙烯與丙烯酸的共聚物樹脂粉末、苯并胍胺樹脂粉末、聚四氟乙烯粉末、纖維素粉末、聚矽氧樹脂粉末、蠶絲粉末、羊毛粉末、胺基甲酸乙酯粉末等);無機白色顏料(例如:二氧化鈦、氧化鋅等);無機紅色系顏料(例如:氧化鐵(Bengala)、鈦酸鐵等);無機褐色系顏料(γ-氧化鐵等)、無機黃色系顏料(氧化鐵黃、黃土等)、無機黑色系顏料(氧化鐵黑、碳黑、低價氧化鈦等)、無機紫色系顏料(例如:錳紫、鈷紫等);無機綠色系顏料(例如:氧化鉻、氫氧化鉻、鈦酸鈷等);無機藍色系顏料(例如:群青、普魯士藍等);珍珠顏料(例如:氧化鈦包覆雲母、氧化鈦包覆氯氧化鉍、氧化鈦包覆滑石、著色氧化鈦包覆雲母、氯氧化鉍、魚鱗箔等);金屬粉末顏料(例如:鋁粉、銅粉等);鋯、鋇或鋁色澱等有機顏料(例如:紅色201號、紅色202號、紅色204號、紅色205號、紅色220號、紅色226號、紅色228號、紅色405號、橙色203號、橙色204號、黃色205號、黃色401號、及藍色404號等有機顏料、紅色3號、紅色104號、紅色106號、紅色227號、紅色230號、紅色401號、紅色505號、橙色205號、黃色4號、黃色5號、黃色202號、黃色203號、綠色3號及藍色1號等);天然色素(例如:葉綠素、β-胡蘿蔔等)等。
作為保濕劑,可列舉例如:聚乙二醇、丙二醇、甘油、1,3-丁二醇、木糖醇、山梨糖醇、麥芽糖醇、硫酸軟骨素、透明質酸、黏液素硫酸酯、瓜呂仁酸、去端膠原、膽固醇基-12-羥基硬脂酸脂、乳酸鈉、膽鹽、dl-吡咯啶酮羧酸鹽、環氧烷衍生物、短鏈可溶性膠原蛋白、二甘油(EO)PO加成物、繅絲花萃取物、歐蓍草萃取物、草木樨萃取物等。
作為被覆劑,可列舉例如:陰離子性被覆劑(例如:(甲基)丙烯酸/(甲基)丙烯酸酯共聚物、甲基乙烯醚/馬來酸酐高聚物等)、陽離子性被覆劑(例如:陽離子化纖維素、二甲基二烯丙基銨氯化物聚合物、二甲基二烯丙基銨氯化物/丙烯醯胺共聚物等)、非離子性被覆劑(例如:聚乙烯醇、聚乙烯吡咯啶酮、聚乙酸乙烯酯、聚丙烯酸酯共聚物、(甲基)丙烯醯胺、高分子聚矽氧、聚矽氧樹脂、三甲基矽氧基矽酸等)。
作為水溶性紫外線吸收劑,可列舉例如:二苯甲酮系紫外線吸收劑(例如:2-羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮-5-磺酸鹽等)、苯亞甲基樟腦系紫外線吸收劑(苯亞甲基樟腦磺酸、對苯二亞甲基二樟腦磺酸等)、苯基苯并咪唑系紫外線吸收劑(苯基苯并咪唑磺酸等)等。
作為螯合劑,可列舉例如:1-羥基乙烷-1,1-二膦酸、1-羥基乙烷-1,1-二膦酸四鈉鹽、乙二胺四乙酸二鈉、乙二胺四乙酸三鈉、乙二胺四乙酸四鈉、檸檬酸鈉、多磷酸鈉、偏磷酸鈉、葡萄糖酸、磷酸、檸檬酸、抗壞血酸、琥珀酸、乙二胺四乙酸、乙二胺羥乙基三乙酸三鈉等。
作為胺基酸,可列舉例如:中性胺基酸(例如:蘇胺酸、半胱胺酸等);鹼性胺基酸(例如:羥基離胺酸等)等。又,作為胺基酸衍生物,可列舉例如:醯基肌胺酸鈉(月桂醯基肌胺酸鈉)、醯基麩胺酸鹽、醯基β-丙胺酸鈉、麩胱甘肽、吡咯啶酮羧酸等。
作為有機胺,可列舉例如:單乙醇胺、二乙醇胺、三乙醇胺、嗎啉、三異丙醇胺、2-胺基-2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇、2-胺基-2-甲基-1-丙醇等。
作為高分子乳液,可列舉例如:丙烯酸樹脂乳液、聚丙烯酸乙酯乳液、丙烯酸樹脂液、聚丙烯酸烷酯乳液、聚乙酸乙烯酯樹脂乳液、天然橡膠乳膠等。
作為pH調整劑,可列舉例如:乳酸-乳酸鈉、檸檬酸-檸檬酸鈉、琥珀酸-琥珀酸鈉等緩衝劑等。
作為維生素類,可列舉例如:維生素A、B1、B2、B6、C、E及其衍生物、泛酸及其衍生物、生物素等。
作為抗氧化劑,可列舉例如:生育酚類、二丁基羥基甲苯、丁基羥基苯甲醚、没食子酸酯類等。
作為抗氧化助劑,可列舉例如:磷酸、檸檬酸、抗壞血酸、馬來酸、丙二酸、琥珀酸、富馬酸、腦磷脂、六偏磷酸鹽、植酸、乙二胺四乙酸等。
作為其它可調配之成分,可列舉例如:防腐劑(對羥基苯甲酸乙酯、對羥基苯甲酸丁酯、氯菲那辛、苯氧基乙醇等);消炎劑(例如:甘草酸衍生物、甘草次酸衍生物、水楊酸衍生物、日本扁柏油、氧化鋅、尿囊素等);美白劑(例如:胎盤萃取物、虎耳草萃取物、熊果苷等);各種萃取物(例如:黃柏、黃連、紫根、芍藥、日本當藥、樺木、鼠尾草、枇杷、人參、蘆薈、錦葵、鳶尾、葡萄、薏苡仁、絲瓜、百合、番紅花、川芎、生薑、小連翹、芒柄花、大蒜、辣椒、陳皮、海藻等)、活化劑(例如:蜂王漿、光敏劑、膽固醇衍生物等);血液循環促進劑(例如:壬酸香草基醯胺、菸鹼酸苯甲基酯、菸鹼酸β-丁氧基乙酯、辣椒素、薑油酮、斑螫酊、魚石脂、鞣酸、α-冰片、菸鹼酸生育酚酯、六菸鹼酸肌醇、環扁桃酯、桂利嗪、托拉佐林、乙醯膽鹼、異博定(Verapamil)、頭花千金藤素、
γ-谷維素等);抗脂漏劑(例如:硫黃、二甲硫蒽等);消炎劑(例如:傳明酸(Tranexamic Acid)、硫代牛磺酸、亞牛磺酸等)等。
再者,本揭示的組成物,亦可適當地含有咖啡因、單寧、異博定、傳明酸及其衍生物、甘草、榠樝、日本鹿蹄草等各種中草藥萃取物、乙酸生育酚酯、甘草次酸、甘草酸及其衍生物或其鹽等藥劑、維生素C、抗壞血酸磷酸鎂、抗壞血酸葡萄糖苷、熊果苷、麴酸等美白劑、精胺酸、離胺酸等胺基酸及其衍生物。
根據本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物,可提高來自所調配之油溶性皮膚外用成分的效用。一般而言,若將非乳化油性組成物與油中水型組成物進行比較,油中水型組成物在進行油溶性皮膚外用成分的塗布容易變得不均勻。然而,根據本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物,提高油溶性皮膚外用成分的塗布均勻性,因而認為可與非乳化型油性組成物相同地更充分發揮皮膚外用成分的作用。例如,油中水型皮膚外用組成物為防曬化妝料時,認為可使所調配之紫外線吸收劑更有效率地作用。以下記載所考察之皮膚外用成分的作用改善機制。然而,即使發現以下記載的皮膚外用成分的作用改善機制與實際機制不同,亦不影響本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物的範圍。
本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物中所添加之水溶性聚合物,被認為具有提高皮膚外用成分在油中水型皮膚外用組成物於皮膚上之塗膜中的分佈均勻性的作用。例如,相對於溶解有皮膚外用成分的油性溶劑,在皮膚外用成分之溶解度低的情況、該油性溶劑的揮發性高的情況等,皮膚外用成分無法均等分散於溶劑中,或無法在使塗膜厚度均勻的情況下進行塗布,而認為皮膚外用成分在皮膚上難以均勻分佈。然而,藉由在水相中調配水溶性聚合物,可使皮膚外
用成分均等地分散於溶劑中,因而認為可以均勻的厚度塗布組成物。藉此,可使皮膚外用成分均勻地分佈於塗膜中,相較於皮膚外用成分之分佈不均的塗膜,認為可提高皮膚外用成分的作用效率。
尤其是,具有較狹窄之分子量範圍(分佈)的水溶性聚合物,相較於分子量範圍未經控制的水溶性聚合物,被認為提高皮膚外用成分之分佈均勻性的作用更高。
以水溶性聚合物提高塗布時分佈均勻性的作用,不僅是油溶性皮膚外用成分,亦可作用於紫外線散射劑等的粉末。例如,藉由水溶性聚合物使紫外線散射劑均勻分佈,藉此可提高抗紫外線效果。
[製造方法]
針對本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物的製造方法進行說明。本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物並非為特定的方法,可由一般習知的方法製作。例如,可藉由將上述各成分混合而製作油中水型皮膚外用組成物。
本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物中,相構造等會有難以根據組成而直接確定,或是不符實際使用的情況。這樣的情況中,本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物應通過其製造方法確定。
以下舉例說明本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物。然而,本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物並不限於以下的例子。又,以下的實施例中,雖說明將各試驗例的油中水型皮膚外用組成物應用於防曬化妝料的例子,但本揭示的組成物並不限於防曬化妝料。各表所示的各成分之含有率的單元為質量%。
[試驗例1至4]
製作具有表1及表2所示之組成的油中水型皮膚外用組成物。各試驗例之油中水型皮膚外用組成物,係添加油溶性紫外線吸收劑作為(A)油溶性皮膚外用劑的防曬化妝料。
下表所示的「分子量經控制的聚丙烯酸Na」,係以具有狹窄之分子量分佈的方式所合成之聚丙烯酸鈉,其中,相對於聚丙烯酸鈉的總質量,重量平均分子量1000萬以上的分子在10質量%以下。「分子量未經控制的聚丙烯酸Na」,係一般市售的聚丙烯酸鈉,其被認為相對於聚丙烯酸鈉的總質量,包含重量平均分子量1000萬以上的分子超過10質量%。
在室溫25℃,藉由手指以2mg/cm2的量將各組成物塗布於作為模擬皮膚的聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯(PMMA)平板(SPFMASTER-PA01)60秒,使其乾燥15分鐘,形成防曬化妝料的塗膜。針對各塗膜,使用吸光光度計(日立製作所公司製U-3500)測定280nm至500nm的吸光度,算出吸光度累計值。以在調配相同油溶性紫外線吸收劑的組成物中不添加成分(B)的組成物作為對照例,由下式計算試驗例之組成物的吸光度累計值的增加率。吸光度累計值的增加率,可作為根據紫外線吸收劑而來的抗紫外線效果的指標。表1及表2中,根據下述評價基準,呈示相對於對照例的吸光度累計值之增加率。
吸光度累計值的增加率(%)=(試驗例的吸光度累計值)/(對照例的吸光度累計值)×100
[吸光度累計值的增加率]
A:相較於對照例,吸光度累計值的增加率在10%以上;
B:相較於對照例,吸光度累計值的增加率在5%以上且小於10%;
C:相較於對照例,吸光度累計值的增加率在2%以上且小於5%;
D:相較於對照例,吸光度累計值的增加率小於2%。
若比較未添加成分(B)水溶性聚合物的對照例1與添加有成分(B)水溶性聚合物的試驗例1-2及1-3,確認若添加水溶性聚合物則吸光度累計值增加。因此認為水溶性聚合物具有提高油溶性紫外線吸收劑的抗紫外線效果的作用。
若比較試驗例1-1與試驗例1-2,即使為相同的聚丙烯酸,添加有分子量分佈經控制之聚丙烯酸的試驗例1-1,可提高抗紫外線效果。
試驗例2至4中,改變試驗例1-1與油溶性紫外線吸收劑的種類。試驗例2至4中,相對於未添加成分(B)水溶性聚合物的對照例2至4,分別可得到與試驗例1-1同等以上的抗紫外線效果。因此認為以水溶性聚合物改善抗紫外線效果,並未取決於紫外線吸收劑的種類。
由於並未取決於紫外線吸收劑的種類,因此認為水溶性聚合物有助於紫外線吸收劑在組成物塗膜中的均勻分佈,而改善抗紫外線效果。尤其是試驗例1-1的抗紫外線效果高於試驗例1-2及1-3者,因此認為藉由使分子量、亦即高分子鏈的長度統一,可使得紫外線吸收劑的分佈均勻性提高。因此,根據本揭示,認為不僅是紫外線吸收劑,針對油溶性的(有機)皮膚外用成分,亦可藉由添加水溶性聚合物來改善對於皮膚的分佈均勻性,而提高皮膚外用效果。
[試驗例5至6]
製作具有表3所示之組成的油中水型皮膚外用組成物及(非乳化型)油性皮膚外用組成物,比較抗紫外線效果。試驗例5之組成物係與試驗例1-1的組成類似的油中水型防曬化妝料。試驗例6之組成物係非乳化型油性防曬化妝料。在試驗例5與試驗例6中比較吸光度累計值。吸光度累計值的求算方法及評價與上述試驗例相同。又,評價將各組成物塗布於肌膚時的使用感。表3呈示組成及比較結果。
如試驗例6的油性化妝料中,因為不存在阻礙乳化水相粒子等均勻分佈的因素,因此可將油溶性皮膚外用成分均勻塗布。然而,根據試驗例5之組成物,即使為油中水型,亦可得到與油性化妝料之試驗例6同等的抗紫外線效果。因此認為本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用劑,即使為油中水型組成物,亦可與單一油相的油性組成物同等地使油溶性皮膚外用成分均勻地分散於皮膚上。
將試驗例5及試驗例6的組成物塗布於10名受測者的肌膚,確認其使用感。結果得到屬於油中水型組成物之試驗例5的組成物,比屬於非乳化型油性組成物之試驗例6更為水潤且不黏膩這樣的回答。因此可知根據本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物可得到良好的使用感,而且可得到與單一油相的油性組成物同等的皮膚外用成分的效果。
[試驗例7]
製作具有表4所示之組成的水中油型皮膚外用劑,測定抗紫外線效果。對照例7之組成係與專利文獻2中的實施例記載之組成相似的組成。試驗例7-1中,相對於對照例7,添加屬於水溶性聚合物的分子量經控制之聚丙烯酸鈉。試驗例7-2中,相對於對照例7,添加屬於水溶性聚合物的羧基乙烯基聚合物。算出試驗例7-1及7-2的吸光度累計值相對於對照例7中的吸光度累計值的增加率。吸光度累計值的求算方法及評價與上述試驗例相同。表4呈示組成及比較結果。
試驗例7-1及7-2中,相較於對照例7,並未發現到抗紫外線效果的增加。亦即,即使對如專利文獻2記載之水中油型組成物添加水溶性聚合物,亦無法提高紫外線吸收劑的抗紫外線效果。因此認為,即使水中油型組成物塗布於皮膚,水中油型組成物中的水溶性聚合物,亦不具有使油相粒子中所溶解之油溶性紫外線吸收劑均勻分散的作用。
[試驗例8至9]
製作具有表5所示之組成的油中水型皮膚外用劑,測定抗紫外線效果。試驗例8及對照例8中係使用環五矽氧烷作為油性溶劑,試驗例9中,使用癸二酸二異丙酯作為油性溶劑。在癸二酸二異丙酯中,相較於環五矽氧烷,屬於油溶性皮膚外用成分的甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯之溶解度高。僅在試驗例8中添加水溶性聚合物,試驗例9及對照例8中並未添加水溶性聚合物。算出試驗例8及試驗例9的吸光度累計值相對於對照例8中的吸光度累計值的增加率。吸光度累計值的求算方法及評價與上述試驗例相同。表5呈示組成及比較結果。
若比較試驗例9與對照例8,藉由使用油溶性皮膚外用成分之溶解度高的溶劑,可提高抗紫外線效果。因此認為其係基於溶解油溶性皮膚外用成分的油性溶劑之溶解度變高因而能夠均勻地塗布油溶性皮膚外用成分。另一方面,若比較試驗例8與試驗例9,藉由添加水溶性聚合物,相較於使用溶解度高的油性溶劑,可提高抗紫外線效果。因此,根據本揭示的油中水型組成物,即使主要使用油溶性皮膚外用成分之溶解度低的油性溶劑,仍可進一步提高油溶性皮膚外用成分的作用。這被認為係因為水相粒子中的水溶性聚合物在塗布時,使油溶性皮膚外用成分更均勻(均等)地分散。
[試驗例10]
製作具有表6所示之組成的油中水型皮膚外用組成物,比較抗紫外線效果。試驗例10之組成物,係使用洋菜代替成分(B)的油中水型防曬化妝料。計算試驗例6的吸光度累計值相對於對照例1中的吸光度累計值的增加率。對照例1係與試驗例1中所使用之對照例相同的組成。吸光度累計值的求算方法及評價與上述試驗例相同。表6呈示組成及比較結果。
相較於對照例1,試驗例10可觀察到抗紫外線效果的改善。然而,若與以相同程度的量調配分子量經控制之聚丙烯酸鈉等的本揭示之水溶性聚合物的試驗例1-1至1-3(表1)比較,則洋菜的抗紫外線效果低。由此可知,根據本揭示的水溶性聚合物,可以比其它水溶性聚合物更少的量,有效率地提高抗紫外線效果。
本發明的油中水型皮膚外用組成物,雖根據上述實施態樣及實施例而進行說明,但並不限於上述實施態樣及實施例,可包含在本發明的範圍內且根據本發明之基本技術思想對於各揭示要件(包含申請專利範圍、說明書及圖式
所記載之要件)所進行之各種變形、變化及改良。又,在本發明的申請專利範圍的範圍內,可進行各揭示要件的多種組合、取代及選擇。
由包含申請專利範圍的本發明之所有揭示事項,可清楚瞭解本發明進一步的課題、目的及形態(包含變化形態)。
關於本說明書所記載之數值範圍,即使在未另外記載的情況,該範圍內所包含的任意數值及範圍仍應被解釋為本說明書具體記載的內容。
本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物可應用於適合肌膚的化妝料、洗淨料等。尤其是本揭示的油中水型皮膚外用組成物可較佳地應用於防曬化妝料。
Claims (8)
- 一種油中水型皮膚外用組成物,包含:油溶性紫外線吸收劑;及水溶性聚合物;前述水溶性聚合物包含選自羧基乙烯基聚合物、聚丙烯酸、聚(2-丙烯醯胺-2-甲基丙烷磺酸)及此等的鹽所構成之群組中的至少1者。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之油中水型皮膚外用組成物,其中前述油溶性紫外線吸收劑包含奧克立林、甲基水楊醇、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯及水楊酸乙基己酯之中的至少1者。
- 如申請專利範圍第1或2項所述之油中水型皮膚外用組成物,更包含15質量%至50質量%的揮發性聚矽氧油及揮發性烴油之中的至少一者;前述揮發性聚矽氧油及前述揮發性烴油之中的至少一者對於前述油溶性紫外線吸收劑的溶解度低於癸二酸二異丙酯。
- 一種油中水型皮膚外用組成物,包含:油性成分,包含油溶性皮膚外用成分及油性溶劑;及水性成分,包含水溶性聚合物;前述水溶性聚合物包含選自羧基乙烯基聚合物、聚丙烯酸、聚(2-丙烯醯胺-2-甲基丙烷磺酸)及此等的鹽所構成之群組中的至少1者,前述油性溶劑在前述油性成分中的含有率,相對於前述油性成分的質量為50質量%以上,前述油性溶劑對於前述油溶性皮膚外用成分的溶解度低於癸二酸二異丙酯。
- 如申請專利範圍第4項所述之油中水型皮膚外用組成物,其中前述油性溶劑包含揮發性聚矽氧油及揮發性烴油之中的至少一者。
- 如申請專利範圍第4或5項所述之油中水型皮膚外用組成物,其中前述油溶性皮膚外用成分包含紫外線吸收劑。
- 如申請專利範圍第6項所述之油中水型皮膚外用組成物,其中前述紫外線吸收劑包含奧克立林、甲基水楊醇、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯及水楊酸乙基己酯之中的至少1者。
- 如申請專利範圍第1至7項中任一項所述之油中水型皮膚外用組成物,其中相對於組成物的質量,前述水溶性聚合物包含0.02質量%至2質量%的聚丙烯酸及其鹽之中的至少1者;前述聚丙烯酸的重量平均分子量為50萬至800萬,且在前述聚丙烯酸中,分子量為1000萬以上之聚合物的含有率在10質量%以下。
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| US8815783B2 (en) * | 2011-12-20 | 2014-08-26 | Halliburton Energy Services, Inc. | High molecular weight low polydispersity polymers |
| FR2986422B1 (fr) * | 2012-02-06 | 2014-02-21 | Oreal | Composition solaire non pulverulente comprenant une phase huileuse polaire et des particules d'aerogel de silice hydrophobes |
| JP6247043B2 (ja) * | 2013-07-31 | 2017-12-13 | 株式会社コーセー | 化粧料及び皮膚外用剤 |
| US20160250131A1 (en) * | 2013-10-09 | 2016-09-01 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Low-Stringiness Thickener and Cosmetic Material Admixed with Said Thickner |
| US10596087B2 (en) * | 2016-10-05 | 2020-03-24 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Ultraviolet radiation absorbing polymer composition |
| JP6368064B1 (ja) * | 2018-04-27 | 2018-08-01 | 高級アルコール工業株式会社 | 新規複合体および油中水型乳化組成物 |
-
2019
- 2019-09-12 TW TW108133004A patent/TW202034890A/zh unknown
- 2019-09-13 JP JP2020546210A patent/JPWO2020054827A1/ja active Pending
- 2019-09-13 US US17/275,819 patent/US20220040060A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2019-09-13 CN CN201980060118.4A patent/CN112714643B/zh active Active
- 2019-09-13 CN CN202311587223.8A patent/CN117598914A/zh active Pending
- 2019-09-13 EP EP19859013.5A patent/EP3851094A4/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2019-09-13 WO PCT/JP2019/036001 patent/WO2020054827A1/ja not_active Ceased
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN112714643A (zh) | 2021-04-27 |
| WO2020054827A1 (ja) | 2020-03-19 |
| CN117598914A (zh) | 2024-02-27 |
| EP3851094A4 (en) | 2022-06-15 |
| US20220040060A1 (en) | 2022-02-10 |
| EP3851094A1 (en) | 2021-07-21 |
| JPWO2020054827A1 (ja) | 2021-08-30 |
| CN112714643B (zh) | 2024-02-02 |
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