SK9512000A3 - Hair treatment agent containing biopolymers and monosaccharides and/or dissacharides and/or panthenol - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an agent containing an active substance combination comprised of cationic or pseudocationic biopolymers and monosaccharides and/or disaccharides and/or panthenol. The invention also relates to the utilization of the active agent combination for producing hair treatment agents and for preventing split ends.

Description

Technical field

The invention relates to a composition comprising a combination of active ingredients of cationic or pseudocationic biopolymers and mono- and / or disaccharides and / or panthenol. Furthermore, the invention relates to the use of a combination of active ingredients in the manufacture of hair care compositions as well as hair splitting.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Hair shampooing as well as decorative hair styling such as dyeing or permanent waving are treatments that can affect the natural structure and properties of the hair in an unwanted manner. Thus, after such treatment, the hair may exhibit, for example, unsatisfactory wet and dry combability, firmness and richness of the hair, or the hair may become more severely split.

Therefore, it has been recommended for a long time to undergo a special additional treatment in this case. In this case, the hair is treated, usually in the form of rinsing, with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers. Depending on the composition, this treatment improves combability, firmness and richness of the hair and reduces cleavage. Such compositions, usually with a relatively low concentration of active ingredients, are offered as preparations remaining in the hair.

Recently, so-called combination preparations have been further developed in order to reduce the cost of the multi-step process, especially for direct use by the user. These preparations contain, in addition to the usual ingredients, for example, hair cleaners, additionally active substances which previously contained additional hair care compositions. The user thus saves one step of use; at the same time, the cost of packaging is reduced as one product is used less.

The products available for separate aftertreatment products as well as for combination products cannot meet all the consumer's wishes.

Thus, for example, the biodegradability of quaternary ammonium compounds is not entirely satisfactory in individual cases, and in many cases their lack of compatibility with anionic surfactants severely limits the capabilities of the compositions. In addition, unwanted hair cumulation may occur with certain polymers.

Although alkylphosphonates and alkylphosphates are compatible with anionic surfactants, they have only limited treatment properties.

Surprisingly, it has been found that compositions according to the invention comprising cationic or pseudocationic biopolymers and mono- and / or disaccharides and / or panthenol are excellent for hair treatment. The active ingredient combination can also be used alone or in combination with known hair care compositions. In particular, the use against cleavage by means of the combination agent according to the invention has proved to be successful.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a composition comprising:

(a) cationic or pseudocationic biopolymers; and

(b) mono- and / or disaccharides and / or panthenol.

Further, the invention encompasses the use of the active ingredient combination in known hair care compositions as well as the use of the active ingredient combination to reduce cleavage.

The composition of the invention can be incorporated into known formulations to those skilled in the art by conventional methods and, when applied to the hair, leads to a significant reduction in cleavage.

Cationic or pseudocationic biopolymers

Particularly suitable cationic biopolymers which are suitable for the purposes of the invention are chitosan-type hydrocolloids. Chemically contemplated, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weights which contain an -realized monomeric component of formula I:

-3CH3OH HO NH3

II I

CH-OCH-CH / \ f \ / | \

-f-HC CH-O-CH CH-O-] - U) \ / x / *

CH-CH-CH-0

I II

HO NH 3 CH 3 OH

Unlike most hydrocolloids, which are negatively charged within the biological pH range, chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions.

Positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces, their use in film forming in hair and skin care cosmetics is therefore extensively described in the literature (US 4,134,412; DE 2627419; EP 507 272).

In addition to chitosans, in a less preferred embodiment, cationic guar gum may be used in the present invention. These may be, for example, known compounds distributed under the trade names Jaguar® and Cosmedia Guar®.

In addition to chitosans, quaternized, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, in particular succinates, optionally in microcrystalline form, are also possible. Usually, the use is in the form of aqueous gels with a solids content in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight.

Reviews on this topic are published, for example, in B.GessIein et.al. HAPPI 27, 57 (1990), O.Skaugrud: in Drug Cosm. Ind. 148. 24 (1991) and E.Onsoyen et al. in Seifen-Ole-Fette-Wachse 117, 633 (1991).

The production of chitosans is based on chitin, especially crustacean alumina residues, which are available in large quantities as a cheap raw material. As a rule, chitin is first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids, and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, with molecular weights spreading over a wide range. A corresponding process for the production of microcrystalline chitosan is described, for example, in WO 91/05808 (Firextra Oy) and in EP-B1 0 382 150 (Hoechst).

In a more preferred embodiment of the invention, especially cationic biopolymers with a small ash residue are used, which are obtained by:

(a) treating fresh crustacean alloys with dilute aqueous mineral acid, (b) treating the resulting demineralized first intermediate with an aqueous alkaline hydroxide solution, (c) treating the resulting slightly deproteinized second intermediate again with dilute aqueous mineral acid, (d) subsequently treating the resulting decalcinated of the third intermediate by means of a concentrated aqueous alkaline liquor, in which case it is deacetylated to a content of 0.05 to 0.5, and in particular 0.15 to 0.25 mol of acetamide per mol of monomer unit, and (e) optionally subjected to an additional pressure / heat treatment to adjust the viscosity.

Mono- and / or disaccharides

In principle, all mono- and / or disaccharides are suitable within the scope of the present invention. Mono- and / or disaccharides selected from the group consisting of D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-fructose, L-arabinose, Dxylose, D-ribose and D-deoxyribose as well as cellobiose, maltose, lactose are preferred. and sucrose. Particularly preferred is the use of D-glucose.

The composition according to the invention usually has a slightly acidic pH, in particular in the range from 4.5 to 6. In principle, various acids, in particular amino acids and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular lactic acid, acetic acid and citric acid, may be used to adjust this pH. however, it is more preferred that glutamic acid is used. Especially preferred is the corresponding acid content in the composition of 0.1 to 1, more preferably 0.2 to 0.6% by weight.

The composition according to the invention preferably contains 0.1 to 5, in particular 0.2 to 1% by weight. % of cationic or pseudocationic biopolymers, and more preferably 0.1 to 1, in particular 0.2 to 0.5 wt. mono- and / or disaccharides. The composition according to the invention is more preferably an aqueous solution of the active compound combination, which may, however, contain up to 15% by weight. alcohol. As low alcohol in the sense

The alcohols having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular methanol, ethanol and / or isopropanol, are suitable for the purposes of the present application.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises mono- and / or disaccharides, but may also contain panthenol.

However, the combination of cationic or pseudocationic biopolymers with mono- and / or disaccharides and additionally with panthenol is particularly preferred. By additional use of panthenol, a synergistic effect on the reduction of cleavage could be determined. 0.1 to 8, in particular 0.2 to 5 wt. panthenol.

As used herein, panthenol is a compound selected from panthenol, panthenol ethers, panthenol esters and cationically derivatized panthenols.

The panthenol ethers or esters useful herein are, for example, panthenol triacetate as well as panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate.

However, preferred compounds are panthenol alone as well as cationically derivatized panthenols.

Information on the manufacture of these panthenol derivatives is given in WO 92/13829, which is expressly referred to herein. The corresponding product is distributed by Tri-K under the name PANTHEQUAT®.

The composition according to the invention can be incorporated into all conventional hair care compositions without problems. The hair care compositions may comprise all of the ingredients customary for such compositions, the choice of which ingredients being substantially determined by the type of hair care composition.

In a more preferred embodiment, the hair care compositions comprise fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols are primarily aliphatic alcohols of formula II

R ¹ OH (II) wherein R ¹ represents an aliphatic, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, which is saturated or may contain up to 3 double bonds.

Typical examples are capro alcohol, caprylalcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, caprile alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures, which are formed, for example, by the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis, as well as the monomer fraction of the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.

Preferred are industrial fatty alcohols having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol. The fatty alcohol content of the composition is from 0.5 to 50, in particular from 2 to 20% by weight.

In addition to fatty alcohols, the hair care compositions according to the invention may also preferably contain surfactants. In a preferred embodiment they are cationic surfactants, soaps and / or dicarboxylic acids.

Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, quaternary ammonium compounds, amidoamines, as well as quaternized esters and protein hydrolysates.

Dicarboxylic acids within the meaning of the present application are, for example, compounds of formula III

wherein R ^{2 is a} linear or branched C 4 -C 12 alkyl or alkenyl group, n is a number from 4 to 12 as well as one of the groups X and Y is -COOH and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the formula III, which additionally have 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring, dicarboxylic acids formed from the dicarboxylic acids of formula III by formally adding one water molecule to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring, or physiologically

Acceptable salts of one of these acids. A process for the preparation of these dicarboxylic acids is disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patent Application 3,753,968.

Preferred are dicarboxylic acids of the formula III, wherein R ² is a linear or methyl-branched, saturated alkyl group with 4-8 carbon atoms and n is from 6 to 10 °.

In addition to the dicarboxylic acids of the formula III, dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds of the formula III by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents in the cyclohexyl ring or are formed formally by the addition of one water molecule to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring are usable according to the invention.

Particularly effective according to the invention are the dicarboxylic acids (mixtures) formed by the reaction of linoleic acid with acrylic acid. This is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid.

Such compounds are commercially marketed under the names Westvaco Diacid® 1550 and Westvaco Diacid® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

In addition to the dicarboxylic acids themselves, physiologically acceptable salts thereof can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethylammonium salts as well as zinc salts. Sodium, potassium and ammonium salts are preferred. Furthermore, it has proven advantageous to select dicarboxylic acids from their water-soluble representatives, in particular from the water-soluble salt, for reasons of formulation. Potassium salt 5- a

6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid, commercially available as an aqueous solution under the designation Westwaco Diacid® H-240, is particularly suitable.

Additionally, the additional use of water-soluble polymers is preferred. These are nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric polymers within the meaning of the present invention. Preferred polymers are nonionic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and cellulose ether, starches and / or cyclodextrin. Particularly preferred are the polymers available under the trademarks Luviquat®, Merquat® and Mirapol®.

Non-ionic surfactants are another class of optional ingredients.

Such compounds are, for example:

- addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols of 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids of 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols of 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

- mono- and diesters of C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide on glycerine,

- C6-C22-alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues as well as

- Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide on castor oil and hardened castor oil.

These compounds with alkyl groups can in each case be individual compounds. Generally, however, it is preferable to use natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the manufacture of these substances, so that mixtures of substances with different alkyl chain lengths, which are dependent on the raw material, are obtained.

For non-ionic surfactants which are ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide addition products on fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, products having a normal homologous distribution as well as products with a narrow homologous distribution can be used. The term "normal" homolog distribution refers to mixtures of homologs obtained by the reaction of a fatty alcohol and an alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. On the other hand, a narrowed homolog distribution is obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides or alkaline earth metal alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a restricted homologous distribution may be preferable.

Alkyl glycosides of the formula RO- (Z) _X , in which R is an alkyl radical of 8 to 22 carbon atoms, Z is a mono- or oligosaccharide and x is a number from 1.1 to 5, nonionic surfactants are particularly preferred. These compounds are characterized by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 8 to 22 carbon atoms and can be linear as well as branched. Preferred are primarily linear and methyl-branched aliphatic residues at the 2-position. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1

-9myristyl, 1-cetyl, and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl and 1-myristyl. When the so-called "oxo-alcohols" are used as starting material, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkylglycosides useful in the invention may contain only one particular alkyl radical R. However, these compounds are usually made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R of the mixture are corresponding to the starting compounds, optionally corresponding to a given processing of these compounds.

Particularly preferred are those alkyl glycosides in which R 2 are:

- predominantly C 6 and C 6 alkyl groups,

- predominantly C12- and C14-alkyl groups,

- predominantly C ₈ - to Cw-alkyl, or

- predominantly C12- to C18-alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharide may be used as the sugar building block Z. Usually, sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms as well as the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talcose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkylglycosides useful in the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl glycosides with values of x from 1.3 to 2 are preferred. Particularly preferred are alkyl glycosides wherein x is 1.4 to 1.6.

Hair care compositions also include hair coloring and toning compositions, such compositions containing either so-called "direct" dyes and / or oxidative dye precursors.

Common direct dyes are, for example, nitrobenzene derivatives, anthraquinone dyes, triphenylmethane dyes and azo dyes. Examples of such dye classes used for hair coloring and tinting agents are, for example, the compounds sold under the international designation or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, methyl yellow, fluorine yellow, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Cardinal Red, Red Y, Red X, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Nitro Blue, Disperse Blue 3, Basis Blue 99, HC Violet 1,

- 10Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basis Brown 16, Picramic Acid and Rodol 9 R. Other suitable direct dyes are, for example, the compounds 3-nitro-4-ethylaminobenzoic acid, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydro- 6-nitro-quinoxaline, 2-nitro-4-amino-4'-dimethylaminodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid and 2-nitro-4-aminodiphenylamino-2'-carboxylic acid.

More preferably, they may be included indoles and / or indolines, for the purposes of the present invention are particularly advantageous 6hydroxyindol, A / -methyl-6hydroxyindol, A / N-ethyl-6hydroxyindol, and / ^{-propyl-6hydroxyindol,?} N-butyl-6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, N-methyl-4-hydroxyindole, N-ethyl-4-hydroxyindole, N-propyl-4-hydroxyindole, N-butyl-4-hydroxyindole, 5, 6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and 5-dihydroxyindole; 6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention may also contain natural dyes such as red Henna, neutral Henna, black Henna, camomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, alder bark, sage, campus, dye root, katechu, saddle and alkane root.

As precursors to the oxidative dyes, the hair coloring means comprise so-called developer components and coupling components. The developer components form their own dyes by oxidizing agents or air oxygen with each other or by coupling with one or more of the coupling components.

Usually, primary aromatic amines with an additional free or substituted hydroxyl or amine group in the para or ω-position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives as well as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and derivatives thereof are used as developer components. Special representatives are, for example, p-toluylenediamine, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, paminophenol, N, N -bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -ethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-pyrazolone-5 and 4 amino-3-methylphenol.

As coupling components, m-phenyldiamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenols are generally used. Particularly suitable as coupling agents are α-naphthol, pyrogallol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthaline, 5-11 amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1-methylphenol, 2-methylphenol. -phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 2-chloro-resorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl -3-aminophenol and 2-methylresorcin.

The type of cosmetic composition according to the invention is not subject to any limitation. The compositions of the invention may either be left-on in the hair or may be rinseoff after a few seconds to minutes exposure. It is preferred to use the active compound combination according to the invention in so-called rinse-off products. Examples of compositions according to the invention are shampoos, rinses, baths, conditioners, tinting agents, coloring agents, permanent waving agents, fixatives, hairsprays, and blow-molding agents.

The other components of these means may then be, for example:

- amphionic surfactants such as betaines,

- alkyl ether carboxylic acids,

- ampholytic surfactants,

- structurants such as maleic acid,

- protein hydrolysates, in particular hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein, their fatty acid condensation products as well as quaternized protein hydrolysates,

- perfume oils and dimethylisosorbate,

- solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol,

- colorants,

- other pH-adjusting substances,

- active substances such as allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts, plant extracts and vitamins,

- means of protection against light,

- consistency-adjusting agents such as sugar ester, polyol ester and polyol alkyl ether,

- waxes such as beeswax and lignite wax,

- fatty acid alkanolamides,

- swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas as well as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

- opacifiers such as latex and polyvinyl acetate,

- pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol monostearate and ethylene glycol distearate,

propellant such as propane - butane mixture, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air, etc

- antioxidants,

reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiourea acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid.

The compositions of the invention may be formulated, for example, as aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, creams, gels or emulsions.

It has been found that, practically independent of the type of hair care composition, certain other ingredients supplement particularly advantageously the active compound combination in their action according to the invention.

Hair care compositions which, in addition to the active compound combination according to the invention, contain acyl lactyllates of the formula IV have proved to be particularly advantageous.

R ³ -CO- (O-CH-CO) _y-OH

I (IV)

CH ₃ wherein R ^{3 is a} linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group of 6 to 22 carbon atoms and y is a number from 1 to 5.

Particularly preferred are the acyl lactylates, in which R ^3, in particular a saturated, linear or methyl-branched alkyl group having 12 to 18 carbon atoms and y is a number from 1 to third

Such acyl lactyllates are sold under the trade name Pationic®.

Sodium isostearoyllactyllactylate, sold under the designation Pationic® ISL, is particularly preferred acyllactylate.

Other preferred substances used in the hair cosmetic compositions of the invention are, for example:

- anti-dandruff active substances such as Climbasol, Piroctone Olamine and Zink Omadine,

- hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, as well as silicone oils,

oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention in more detail.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Hair splitting test

20 split hairs were each immersed in a 12.5% (w / w) aqueous solution of sodium lauryl ether sulfate for 5 minutes and subsequently rinsed with lukewarm water. The hair was then placed in test solutions 1 to 5 for 5 minutes, washed and dried at 60 ° C for 30 minutes in a circulating oven. Dry hair was sorted for splitting damage that was still recognizable by the naked eye. Hair was subjected 1, 2 and 3 times to this procedure. The measured values shown in Table 1 represent the mean of the 2 measurements.

Table 1

Test solution (data as% by weight in water) Cleavage rate in% (proportion of hair still open) after a single treatment after double treatment after triple treatment 0.3 glucose 100 100 100 0.4 glutamic acid 65 65 65 0.5 chitosan 0.4 glutamic acid 45 25 15 0.4 glutamic acid 0.3 glucose 70 75 70 0.5 chitosan 0.4 glutamic acid 0.3 glucose 10 10 10

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Claims (8)

What is claimed is: 1. A composition comprising (a) cationic or pseudocationic biopolymers; and (b) panthenol. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains a mono- and / or disaccharide. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is in the form of an aqueous solution having a pH in the range of 2.5 to 6. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the pH is adjusted by means of an amino acid and / or a hydroxycarboxylic acid. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 5 wt. % cationic or pseudocationic biopolymers and 0.1 to 8 wt. panthenol. Composition according to one of Claims 2 to 5, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 1 wt. mono- and / or disaccharides. Use of a composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 6 for the production of hair care compositions. Use of a composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 6 for reducing hair splitting.