RU2851202C1 - Lash lamination/chemical perming system and long-term brow styling system lami system n412 - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: chemical industry.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to laminating/chemical curling of eyelashes and long-term styling of eyebrows. The system for laminating/chemical curling of eyelashes and long-term styling of eyebrows consists of, by mas.%: cysteamine HCl - 5.0-10.0, GMTG (glyceryl monothioglycolate) - 5.0-10.0, hydrolysed wheat protein, hydrolysed soy protein, carbocysteine, threonine, serine, glutamic acid - 1.0-3.0, EDTA 2Na - 0.02-0.1, cocamidopropyl betaine - 0.5-2.0, cetrimonium chloride - 0.5-2.0, polyquaternium-10 - 0.01-0.05, preservative system - 0.5-1.5, xanthan gum - 0.5-1.5, propylene glycol - 1.0-3.0, PEG-100 glycerol stearate - 2.0-4.0, cetearyl alcohol - 1.0-3.0, mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum) - 8.0-12.0, hydrogenated polyisobutene - 0.5-2.0, monoethanolamine - 2.0-4.0, deionised water - the rest.

EFFECT: safe use of the system in the eye and eyebrow area and deep penetration of active substances while preserving the hair structure.

1 cl, 2 dwg, 1 ex

Description

The invention relates to the Lami System No. 412 eyelash lamination/perming system and long-lasting eyebrow styling. The aim of the invention is a specially selected composition using thioglycolic acid ester (glyceryl monothioglycolate) and cysteamine. When used together, these compounds reduce the aggressiveness of the composition, allowing for safe use in the eye and eyebrow area, optimize the acidity level (pH = 8.5), ensure long-lasting curl retention, and deep penetration of active ingredients while preserving the hair structure thanks to a balanced combination of components.

A cold perm formulation contains thioglycolic acid, ethoxylated lauryl sulfate, sodium hydrosulfite, and water (Feldman, S.S., and Rudoy, N.N., Hairdressing, 1969, pp. 140-141). However, this cold perm formulation has a drawback: it can oxidize during storage, leading to product deterioration and reduced curling properties.

A composition for cold hair perming is known (SU 571265 “Means for cold chemical hair perming” IPC A61K 8/55, A61K 8/20, A61K 8/36, A61K 8/41, A61K 8/44, A61Q 5/04, registration date: 05.09.1977), having the following composition, wt. %:

Thioglycolic acid 5-8.5;

Monoethanolamine 6.5-10;

Ethoxylated lauryl sulfate 0.5-2;

Sodium hydrosulfite 0.3-1;

Trisodium salt of oxyethylene diphosphonic acid 0.4-0.8;

Water – The Rest.

The composition allows for cold curling without the use of specialized electric hair tools, which is an advantage of this invention. The proposed composition also has some drawbacks, as the claimed author's certificate suggests high mass percentages of thioglycolic acid (5-8.5%) in combination with monoethanolamine (6.5-10%), which can dry out the hair. It is also noted that the composition lacks sufficient amino acids or keratin-like substances to compensate for the damage to the hair structure.

A composition is known that relates to the production of hair curling compounds (RU 2007995 “Means for cold chemical hair curling” A61K 7/09, registration date: 28.02.1994), having the following composition, wt. %:

Thioglycolic acid 5-10.0;

Monoethanolamine 6.5-12.0;

Sodium sulfite 1.0-3.0;

Sodium metabisulfite 0.5-3.0;

Urea 3.0-10.0;

Isopropyl alcohol 1.0-5.0;

Glycerin 5.0-20.0;

Sulfoethoxylates 0.2-1.0;

Fragrance 0.1-0.3;

Water is the rest.

The composition allows for cold curling without the use of specialized electric hair tools, which is an advantage of this invention. The proposed composition also has drawbacks, as it uses high mass fractions of thioglycolic acid (5-10%) in combination with monoethanolamine (6.5-12%), which can dry out hair. The presence of isopropyl alcohol in the composition accelerates water evaporation, which can unevenly distribute the composition on the hair and cause dryness. It is also noted that the composition lacks sufficient amino acids or keratin-like substances to compensate for the damage to the hair structure. Such a composition can also have a high pH (>9.5), which makes the composition more aggressive and increases the risk of damage to the hair structure. For eyelashes, the composition must be less than or equal to 9.5 according to the technical regulations TECHNICAL REGULATIONS OF THE CUSTOMS UNION TP CU 009/2011 “On the safety of perfumery and cosmetic products”.

Both compositions presented in SU 571265 "Means for cold chemical hair perm" IPC A61K 8/55, A61K 8/20, A61K 8/36, A61K 8/41, A61K 8/44, A61Q 5/04, date of registration: 09/05/1977 and RU 2007995 "Means for cold chemical hair perm" A61K 7/09, date of registration: 02/28/1994 can be used for lamination/chemical curling of eyelashes and long-term styling of eyebrows, but the proposed compositions have components with a high percentage content (thioglycolic acid, isopropyl alcohol, monoethanolamine), which may be unsafe in the area around the eyes and harm human health.

The technical problem addressed by the proposed solution is the high mass fraction of ingredients, which leads to increased acidity and can dry out and damage hair, as well as an insufficient amount of amino acids or keratin-like substances that could compensate for the damage to the hair structure. Furthermore, the use of alcohols in the composition accelerates water evaporation, which can unevenly distribute the composition on the hair, causing it to dry out and adversely affecting the hair structure.

The technical result of the claimed technical solution is a specially selected composition using thioglycolic acid ester (glyceryl monothioglycolate) and cysteamine, which, when used together, reduce the aggressiveness of the composition used, which allows for the safe use of the system in the eye and eyebrow area, an optimized acidity index (pH = 8.5) and a balanced combination of components ensures deep penetration of active substances while preserving the hair structure.

The specified technical result is achieved through the developed system of lamination/chemical curling of eyelashes and long-term styling of eyebrows Lami System No. 412, consisting of the following components, wt. %:

Cysteamine HCl - 5.0-10.0;

GMTG (glyceryl monothioglycolate) - 5.0-8.0;

Hydrolyzed wheat protein, (and) hydrolyzed soy protein, (and) carbocysteine, (and) threonine, (and) serine, (and) glutamic acid - 1.0-3.0;

EDTA 2Na - 0.02-0.1;

Cocamidopropyl betaine - 0.5-2.0;

Cetrimonium chloride - 0.5-2.0;

Polyquaternium-10 - 0.01-0.05;

Preservative system - 0.5-1.5;

Xanthan gum - 0.5-1.5;

Propylene glycol - 1.0-3.0;

Glycerol stearate PEG-100 - 2.0-4.0;

Cetearyl alcohol - 1.0-3.0;

Mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) - 8.0-12.0;

Hydrogenated polyisobutene - 0.5-2.0;

Monoethanolamine, NaOH - 2.0-4.0;

Deionized water is the rest.

The system penetrates deep into the hair structure, preserving its structure thanks to a balanced combination of ingredients. The presence of amino acids promotes natural restoration of the hair structure after the treatment. Conditioning ingredients provide smoothness, an antistatic effect, and softness. Emulsifiers and stabilizers prevent uneven distribution of the ingredients on the hair. Surfactants in the system improve the wettability of the ingredients.

The components were selected in laboratory conditions, where comparative tests were conducted on free thioglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid salts, and thioglycolic acid ester. The results are presented in Fig. 1.

Cysteamine initiates the reaction of breaking disulfide bonds (-S-S-) in keratin, allowing hair to become flexible and take on a new shape due to its gentle effect on the hair cortex, which leads to a soft and natural curl result. Cysteamine and glyceryl monothioglycolate have different hydrophobicity indices (Minoru Okano, Hidetoshi Oka, Tatsuru Hatakeyama, Ryuichi Endo. Effect of thiol structures on hair reduction // Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Japan. - 1998. - Vol. 32, No. 1. - pp. 43-51.). A specific ratio of these compounds in the composition allows us to correlate the penetration depth, and therefore the effect of the product. Unlike competitors, we have created a product that breaks S-S bonds not only on the surface, but also penetrates deep into the hair structure. At the same time, cysteamine has a factor that reduces aggressiveness, which preserves the hair structure.

The chosen pH of 8.5 in the proposed composition is based on the optimal effectiveness of the active ingredients: thioglycolic acid ester (glyceryl monothioglycolate) and cysteamine. Thioglycolic acid ester (glyceryl monothioglycolate) is quite hydrophobic, meaning its penetration into the hair structure increases at lower pH values. Cysteamine, on the other hand, exhibits maximum activity at higher pH values. Based on these chemical properties, the pH was carefully selected at 8.5, which ensures the optimal performance of both components: thioglycolic acid ester (glyceryl monothioglycolate) and cysteamine. The optimal "window" of intersection between the thioglycolic acid ester (glyceryl monothioglycolate) and cysteamine was selected, allowing both to act most effectively without reducing their activity or causing excessive damage to the hair structure.

Thus, the pH of 8.5 in the Lami System No. 412 eyelash lamination/perm and long-lasting eyebrow styling system provides a balance between effectiveness and a gentle effect on hair, reducing the risk of cuticle damage, maintaining hair elasticity and ensuring a long-lasting curl result, and also meets the requirements of the TECHNICAL REGULATIONS OF THE CUSTOMS UNION TP CU 009/2011 "On the safety of perfumery and cosmetic products."

The claimed Lami System #412 eyelash lamination/perming and long-lasting eyebrow styling system uses a cold process and requires no additional specialized electric tools used for curling hair. It was developed specifically for use in the eye area—for eyelash lamination/perming and long-lasting eyebrow styling—and was tested for the following parameters: acidity (pH), effect on hair structure, curl durability, level of hair damage, and stability after opening. The product was tested on more than 25 models with different eyelash and eyebrow types, ages, and allergy predispositions. Model reports were collected over a three-month period, with weekly recordings of curl condition and hair quality. Models underwent repeated treatments, which allowed for an assessment of the cumulative effect of the composition and the absence of cumulative hair damage. The evaluation was conducted by stylists and models based on visual analysis and sensations after the procedure. The test results are presented in Fig. 2.

The claimed system is highly stable, as the pH remained unchanged for three months after opening. The structure of the eyelashes and eyebrows is largely preserved and stable after the procedure—no dryness, brittleness, or thinning is observed. The curl's durability is proven—the shape is maintained until the natural lash shedding, making the product effective and long-lasting. Safety is confirmed—no allergic reactions have been reported, even in models with sensitive skin. There is no cumulative effect—repeated treatments do not cause cumulative damage to the hair.

Thus, the conducted tests confirmed that the system of lamination/chemical curling of eyelashes and long-term styling of eyebrows Lami System №412, consisting of the following components, wt. %: Cysteamine HCl - 5.0-10.0; HMTG (glyceryl monothioglycolate) - 5.0-10.0; Hydrolyzed wheat protein, (and) hydrolyzed soy protein, (and) carbocysteine, (and) threonine, (and) serine, (and) glutamic acid) - 1.0-3.0; EDTA 2Na - 0.02-0.1; Cocamidopropyl betaine - 0.5-2.0; Cetrimonium chloride - 0.5-2.0; Polyquaternium-10 - 0.01-0.05; Preservative system - 0.5-1.5; Xanthan gum - 0.5-1.5; Propylene glycol - 1.0-3.0; PEG-100 glycerol stearate - 2.0-4.0; Cetearyl alcohol - 1.0-3.0; Mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) - 8.0-12.0; Hydrogenated polyisobutene - 0.5-2.0; Monoethanolamine, NaOH - 2.0-4.0; Deionized water - the rest, allows:

- reduce the aggressiveness of the composition used, due to the use of a thioglycolic acid ester (glyceryl monothioglycolate) and cysteamine, which allows the system to be safely used in the eye and eyebrow area;

- optimize the acidity index pH 8.5, due to the reduced amount of monoethanolamine introduced (2.0-4.0);

- ensure long-lasting curl retention and deep penetration of active ingredients while preserving the hair structure, thanks to a balanced combination of components, through the use of amino acids, conditioning components, emulsifiers and stabilizers in the composition.

Thus, the declared technical result was achieved, namely, the system of lamination/chemical curling of eyelashes and long-term styling of eyebrows Lami System No. 412, consisting of the following components, wt. %: Cysteamine HCl - 5.0-10.0; HMTG (glyceryl monothioglycolate) - 5.0-10.0; Hydrolyzed wheat protein, (and) hydrolyzed soy protein, (and) carbocysteine, (and) threonine, (and) serine, (and) glutamic acid) - 1.0-3.0; EDTA 2Na - 0.02-0.1; Cocamidopropyl betaine - 0.5-2.0; Cetrimonium chloride - 0.5-2.0; Polyquaternium-10 - 0.01-0.05; Preservative system - 0.5-1.5; Xanthan gum - 0.5-1.5; Propylene glycol - 1.0-3.0; Glycerol stearate PEG-100 - 2.0-4.0; Cetearyl alcohol - 1.0-3.0; Mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) - 8.0-12.0; Hydrogenated polyisobutene - 0.5-2.0; Monoethanolamine, NaOH - (2.0-4.0); Deionized water - the rest, allows to reduce the aggressiveness of the composition used, due to the use of thioglycolic acid ester (glyceryl monothioglycolate) and cysteamine, which allows for safe use of the system in the eye and eyebrow area, optimizes the pH acidity indicator, due to the reduced amount of monoethanolamine introduced (2.0-4.0) and ensures long-term preservation of the curl and deep penetration of active substances while maintaining the hair structure thanks to a balanced combination of components, due to the use of amino acids, conditioning components, emulsifiers and stabilizers in the composition.

Furthermore, the system is highly stable, as the pH remained unchanged for three months after opening. Hair structure is largely preserved and stable after the procedure—no dryness, brittleness, or thinning is observed. The curl's durability is proven—the shape remains until the natural lash shedding, making the product effective and long-lasting. Safety is confirmed—no allergic reactions have been reported, even among models with sensitive skin. There is no cumulative effect—repeated treatments do not cause cumulative damage to the hair.

The claimed technical solution meets the criterion of “novelty” imposed on inventions, since, when determining the level of technology, no technical solution was identified that has features identical (that is, coinciding in the function they perform and the form of execution of these features) to the set of features listed in the invention formula, including the characteristic of the purpose.

The claimed technical solution meets the criterion of “inventive step” required for inventions, since no technical solutions have been identified that have features that coincide with the distinctive features of the claimed invention, and the influence of the distinctive features on the specified technical result has not been established.

The claimed technical solution meets the “industrial applicability” criterion for inventions, as it can be manufactured using known materials, components, standard technical devices and equipment.

Claims (2)

A system for lamination/chemical curling of eyelashes and long-term eyebrow styling, consisting of the following components, wt. %: Cysteamine HCl 5.0-10.0 GMTG (glyceryl monothioglycolate) 5.0-10.0 Hydrolyzed wheat protein, (and) hydrolyzed soy protein, (and) carbocysteine, (and) threonine, (and) serine, (and) glutamic acid 1.0-3.0 EDTA 2Na 0.02-0.1 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.5-2.0 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5-2.0 Polyquaternium-10 0.01-0.05 Preservative system 0.5-1.5 Xanthan gum 0.5-1.5 Propylene glycol 1.0-3.0 Glycerol stearate PEG-100 2.0-4.0 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0-3.0 Mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) 8.0-12.0 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5-2.0 Monoethanolamine 2.0-4.0 Deionized water The rest