RU2723483C1 - Cosmetic hand cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetic industry.SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetology, namely to cosmetic hand cream. Cream contains thickeners, emollients, emulsifiers, moisturizing agents, natural biologically active plant-based additives of directed action, a preservative at the following ratio of components, wt. %: hydrogenated castor oil 4.0–6.0; carbopol 0.1–0.2; isononyl isononanoate 1.0–3.0; cetearyl alcohol 2.0–4.0; glycerol stearate 3.0–5.0; olivem 1.5–2.5; glycerol - 4.0–5.5; allantoin 0.05–0.15; rosehips oil 2.0–4.0; avocado oil 2.0–4.0; vitamin E 0.1–0.3; supercritical carbon dioxide chamomile extract 0.5–1.5; aqueous extract of rhubarb is 69.0–72.0; preservative is 0.4–0.5.EFFECT: invention provides skin moisturizing and softening, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, wound-healing, nourishing action, at the same time the negative effect of the components of the cream formulation on the skin is excluded even with prolonged use.1 cl

Description

The invention relates to the perfumery and cosmetics industry and relates to the creation of a cosmetic cream for the care of hand skin.

Known cosmetic cream for hands and face, which has the properties of moisturizing the skin, softening and smoothing effect. Hand and face cream consists of distilled glycerin, triethanolamine, rectified ethyl alcohol, fragrance, water, which additionally contains a low-melting chicken fat fraction, sunflower oil, anhydrous lanolin, synthetic alcohols, cosmetic stearin, 0.2% oil solution β-carotene, aqueous-alcoholic extract of willow bark, aqueous-alcoholic extract of potentilla, perfume, distilled water, and UV-propellant as a preservative (patent 2337665, IPC ⁵¹ А61К 8/00, А61О 19/00, No. 2007120384 / 15, claimed May 31, 2007, published November 10, 2008, Rus.).

The disadvantage of this cream for hands and face is the high content in the formulation of ethyl alcohol, which has the ability to dry and irritate the skin. Ethyl alcohol in the cream causes the expansion of blood vessels, increases skin sensitivity, disrupts the absorption and metabolization of vitamin A.

Also known is a cosmetic cosmetic cream for hand skin care containing mummies, sunflower oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, gelling agent (Kemaben 2E), preservative (ATH reocar), rosehip super extract, sea buckthorn super extract, water of special purification. The cosmetic cosmetic cream nourishes, cleanses, rejuvenates the skin of the hands, and also restores damage to the skin of various origins - cuts, bruises, and insect bites (according to patent 2326652, IPC ⁵¹ А61К 8/97, etc., No. 2006144924/15, declared December 19, 2006 , published on June 20, 2008, Rus.).

The disadvantage of this cosmetic cream is that the claims do not indicate the types of plant extracts offered — water, alcohol, carbon dioxide, oil, or others, as well as the concentration of active substances in the extracts. In addition, the text of the cream formula and its description have a number of contradictions: for example, the sea buckthorn super-extract is indicated in the formula, and the sea-buckthorn oil is described in the description. In the given application examples of the cream, the concentrations of prescription components are not indicated. At the same time, the cream formula allows for a significant variation in concentrations for the active components: for example, peeled mummy - from 0.1 to 5.0%, rosehip super-extract - from 0.03 to 1.0%, etc.

Closest to the proposed is a cosmetic cream for skin care, which includes the following components,%: ultraviolet filters selected from ethylhexylmethocinamate and / or diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate and / or bisethylhexyloxyphenolmethophenyl triazine, thickeners selected from hydroxydehydrodecanol and from glyceryl stearate citrate and / or sodium stearoyl lactylate, wetting agents selected from glycerol and / or sorbitol, and / or hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate, structure-forming agents selected from sodium polyacrylate, and / or sodium carbomer, and / or xanthan gum, panthenol biologically active additives of plant origin of directed action, selected from an aqueous extract of sweet clover, an aqueous extract of pink radiola, and / or an aqueous extract of Schisandra chinensis, and / or an aqueous extract of Scutellaria baicalensis, essential oil of fir, cedar essential oil, and / or thyme essential oil, and / or ether Foot oil zmeegolovnika, transdermal carrier which is a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight less than 40 kD or sodium hyaluronate, glycyrrhizic acid, perfume composition, a preservative, a natural dye, a rheology modifier and water in said patent ratio (patent 2666602, IPC ⁵¹ A61K 8/04, A61K 8/34 and others, No. 2017123745, announced 05.07.2017, published 11.09.2018).

The main disadvantage of this cream is its overly wide range of applications, which implies the same effect on the skin of the face, body, arms, legs. It is known that the skin of the hands experiences the greatest destructive load, as a result of which it dehydrates faster, inflammatory processes are more often observed in it, the formation of cracks and abrasions, and accelerated aging occurs. Thus, the hand cream should have a more intense effect: at the same time softening, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, regenerating. Using the prototype as a cream for the skin of the hands allows you to get a pronounced medical and cosmetic result only after prolonged use.

The disadvantages of the prototype include its consistency. The cream has a stretching structure, which is inconvenient for application to the skin.

The disadvantage of the prototype is the high content of ultraviolet filters - 10-15%, among which the use of ethylhexylmethocinamate is recommended. According to some reports, this substance may be a potential destroyer of the endocrine system. Also in large quantities in the cream are synthetic structure-forming components - thickeners, emulsifiers, structure-forming agents, rheology modifier - in total up to 19%, preservative - up to 1.5%.

In the prototype there is practically no fat phase - the most important component of cosmetic creams. Therefore, a valuable resource of fat-soluble biologically active substances of plant and animal origin has not been used.

The objective of the invention is the creation of a cosmetic hand cream based on natural biologically active components of plant origin, hypoallergenic, non-toxic, with intense anti-inflammatory, regenerating, moisturizing and softening effects, convenient to use.

The problem is solved in that the cosmetic hand cream containing thickeners, emollients, emulsifiers, moisturizing agents, natural biologically active additives of plant origin of directed action, preservative, characterized in that it contains hydrogenated castor oil and carbopol as thickeners, contains emollients isonoyl isononanoate and cetearyl alcohol, contains glyceryl stearate and olive as emulsifiers, contains glycerin and allantoin as moisturizing agents, contains rosehip oil, avocado oil, vitamin E, supercritical carbon dioxide extract of rum as the natural biologically active additives of plant origin rhubarb root, in the following ratio of components, wt. %:

Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4.0-6.0 Carbopol 0.1-0.2 Isonoyl isononanoate 1.0-3.0 Cetearyl alcohol 2.0-4.0 Glyceryl stearate 3.0-5.0 Olivem 1.5-2.5, Glycerol 4.0-5.5 Allantoin 0.05-5.15 Rosehip oil 2.0-4.0 Avocado oil 2.0-4.0 Vitamin E 0.1-0.3 Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Chamomile Extract 0.5-1.5 Rhubarb Root Water Extract 69.0-72.0 Preservative 0.4-0.5

The invention consists in the following.

The components of the cream and their content are selected in such a way as to provide an optimal absorbent, moisturizing and softening effect on the skin of the hands. The vegetable oils contained in the cream, vitamin E, chamomile and rhubarb extracts have an anti-inflammatory, wound healing and regenerating effect, while the negative effect of the components of the cream formulation on the skin is excluded even with prolonged use.

The main natural asset of the claimed cream is an aqueous extract of rhubarb root. We used an aqueous extract of Tangut rhubarb root, which contains tannins, flavonoids, anthracene glycosides, resins, pectins, more than 15 macro- and microelements, and other biologically active substances. Natural tannins have anti-inflammatory, bactericidal,

hemostatic and astringent properties. Flavonoids in cosmetics exhibit capillary-strengthening, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant properties, as well as a powerful anti-allergic effect. Anthracene derivatives have diverse physiological effects, of which in cosmetics the most important are antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, regenerating. The overall cosmetic effect of these biologically active compounds provides a significant degree of achievement of the claimed technical result. The aqueous extract of rhubarb root contains solids - at least 22.6%, including: tannins - 12.6%, anthracene derivatives - 5.3%, flavanoids - 2.5%.

The advantage of the proposed cosmetic hand cream is the use of an active fat phase, consisting of a combination of vegetable oils (dogrose and avocado), each of which has a softening, anti-inflammatory and regenerating effect on the skin, vitamin E and fat-soluble supercritical carbon dioxide extract of chamomile.

Rosehip oil and avocado oil contain in large quantities vitamins A and E, pigments, vitamin C, trace elements (iron, molybdenum, potassium, magnesium, etc.), mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids, due to which they have an antioxidant effect on skin cells, improve metabolic processes, accelerate the healing of wounds and burns, slow down skin aging. The presence of squalene, an important component of subcutaneous fat, and lecithin in the avacado oil normalizes hormonal processes, enhances the disinfecting and wound healing effects. Used cold-pressed rosehip oil, which is an oily red-brown liquid with a characteristic pleasant odor. Avocado oil is used, which is a viscous transparent liquid of a yellow-greenish color with a faint odor.

Vitamin E is used as a dark yellow oil solution with a content of α-tocopherol acetate of 0.27-0.33 g / ml.

Supercritical carbon dioxide extract of chamomile as part of the claimed cream is considered an excellent ingredient for cosmetics used to nourish the skin and protect it from the adverse effects of the external environment. It contains chamazulene, terpenes, polyunsaturated fatty acids of various types, flavonoids, tannins, choline, organic acids and other biologically active substances in high concentrations. In combination with other components of the cream, chamomile extract provides anti-inflammatory, bactericidal, antifungal, wound healing and photoprotective effects, as well as nourishes the skin. A supercritical carbon dioxide extract of chamomile was used, having a liquid consistency, fat-soluble, containing (%, not less): chamazulen - 1, terpenes - 6, polyunsaturated fatty acids - 30, phytosterols - 1.

To soften the skin of the hands, in addition to fatty components, emollients - isonoyl isononanoate and cetearyl alcohol are introduced into the cream. Emollients restore the protective lipid membrane in the upper layer of the skin, which for a long time gives the skin smoothness and velvety, prevents it from drying out. Isonoyl isononanoate is a colorless and odorless liquid. Cetearyl alcohol in composition - a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, in appearance - white granules, odorless.

The function of thickeners in the composition of the cream is performed by hydrogenated castor oil and carbopol. Hydrogenated castor oil is a white flake, without taste and odor, non-toxic, penetrates well into the skin, additionally helps restore its moisture. Carbopol - a thickener and stabilizer that does not require neutralization, is a high molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid, non-toxic, does not cause allergies.

To stabilize the emulsion cream system, glyceryl stearate was used containing a mixture of mono- and diesters (-40%) of stearin and glycerol. Its action is complemented by olive - an emulsifier in the form of solid waxy flakes of white color, with a faint characteristic odor. Olive is obtained from olive oil by esterification with pre-ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol. This emulsifier contains long chain (C16-C22) fatty acids that are similar in composition to the fatty acids of the lipid layer of the dermis. The layered structures formed from them - lamellae - retain water molecules and solutions of active ingredients, delivering them through the stratum corneum of the dermis. This helps to restore the natural lipid layer of the skin, as well as its prolonged hydration.

As moisturizing agents in the inventive cream used glycerin and allantoin.

Glycerin - a trihydric alcohol, is a colorless, viscous, hygroscopic liquid, sweet in taste, unlimitedly soluble in water. Alantoin - 5-ureidohydantoin, colorless crystals, odorless. Glycerin and allantoin have a softening and moisturizing effect on the skin, stimulate wound healing and cell renewal of the epidermis.

In the inventive cream, a preservative based on phenoxyethanol and ethylhexiglycerin is used. It is widely used in the cosmetics industry. It is directed against bacteria, yeast and molds. It is a colorless, transparent liquid, soluble in water and propylene glycol.

The invention is as follows.

Preliminarily, in the auxiliary mixers of the reactor, separately fat and water phases are prepared. Melted glycerol stearate and cetearyl alcohol are introduced into the mixer of the fat phase, then rosehip oil, isonoyl isononanoate, avocado oil, and olive are successively fed. The contents are mixed and heated to a temperature of 70-75 ° C. An extract of the rhubarb root is pumped into the mixer of the aqueous phase, then glycerin and allantoin are added and, while continuously mixing, they are dissolved; then carbopol is fed and mixing is stopped until carbopol is swollen to the maximum. The resulting aqueous phase of the cream is again mixed and simultaneously heated to a temperature of 70-75 ° C. To the reactor, heated to a temperature of 40-45 ° C, serves 80% of the aqueous phase, then the entire fat phase and the remainder of the aqueous phase. Gradually increasing the temperature of the reactor to 70-75 ° C, produce a rough emulsification of the mixture. The coarse emulsion is pumped into an ultrasonic chamber, where additional dispersion is carried out under the action of elastic waves with a frequency of 20-50 kHz. The emulsion is cooled to a temperature of 45 ° C (for the introduction of thermally unstable prescription components) and the preparation of vitamin E and supercritical carbon dioxide extract of chamomile are added to it. A sample is taken to control the pH of the emulsion. If the analysis is positive, the added components are mixed with the emulsion, then the resulting mass (cream) is cooled under vacuum to a temperature of 20-30 ° C. At the end, in relation to the cream, it is checked for its compliance with the given organoleptic and physico-chemical indicators.

The resulting cosmetic hand cream in appearance is a mass of a creamy homogeneous consistency with a faint woody smell. Physicochemical parameters of the product: hydrogen indicator - 6.70; colloidal stability and thermal stability are good. Cosmetic hand cream is easily applied to the skin, is well absorbed without leaving a greasy residue on the skin, softens and moisturizes the skin, gives it smoothness and velvety. After regular use, the signs of inflammation decrease and disappear, and the healing of small abrasions and cracks accelerates.

Claims (2)

Cosmetic hand cream containing thickeners, emollients, emulsifiers, moisturizing agents, natural biologically active additives of plant origin of directed action, a preservative, characterized in that it contains hydrogenated castor oil and carbopol as thickeners, contains isonoyl isononanoate and cetearyl alcohol as emollients, it contains glyceryl stearate and olive as emulsifiers, contains glycerol and allantoin as moisturizing agents, contains dogrose oil, avocado oil, vitamin E, supercritical carbon dioxide extract of chamomile, aqueous extract of rhubarb root in the following ratio of components as natural moisturizing agents of directed origin , wt.%: Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4.0-6.0 Carbopol 0.1-0.2 Isonoyl isononanoate 1.0-3.0 Cetearyl alcohol 2.0-4.0 Glyceryl stearate 3.0-5.0 Olivem 1.5-2.5, Glycerol 4.0-5.5 Allantoin 0.05-0.15 Rosehip oil 2.0-4.0 Avocado oil 2.0-4.0 Vitamin E 0.1-0.3 Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Chamomile Extract 0.5-1.5 Rhubarb Root Water Extract 69.0-72.0 Preservative 0.4-0.5