RU2710249C1 - Powder for peeling - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to the field of cosmetology and represents the use of powder from a mixture of purified whey of dry milk and dry whey powder permeate of milk whey as a skin peeling, wherein the powder has a particle size of 3.0–30.0 mcm, dispersibility – amount of fine fractions – 13.5–33.0 %, residue on sieve 200 mcm – 10.6–47.2 %, residue on sieve 100 mcm – 51.5–75.6 %, acidity °T – 6.0–9.0, active acidity – pH of the serum reduced to dry substances weight ratio 6.0 % – 6.50–6.67, purity-I, and components of the peeling powder are taken in a certain ratio, in %.

EFFECT: invention provides effective and high-quality peeling.

1 cl, 1 tbl

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology, is a powder based on purified whey and is intended for polishing and peeling the skin.

Currently, the choice of cosmetic procedures and preparations for them is all subject to the cherished goal of getting rid of age-related changes. And in this sense, modern cosmetology is a real time machine that can turn back the clock.

For example, botox, hyaluronic acid, and threads are widely used. They allow you to solve many problems that a few years ago required surgery. However, all these miracles can lead to complications and unpleasant consequences: for example, hyaluronic acid - to partial or complete loss of sensitivity, tissue necrosis, skin fibrosis. If the gel accumulates too much water, it can displace under the influence of gravity, which will lead to strong asymmetry of the face.

Botox is dangerous for its side effects, such as muscle spasm. At the same time, the muscles that escaped the action of the drug should compensate for the work of their immobilized "comrades." They tighten more, which ultimately leads to a noticeable asymmetry between different areas of the face; early aging - at first glance, it sounds paradoxical, because Botox is used just for rejuvenation. However, due to constant immobility in the muscles, blood circulation is disturbed, they are poorly supplied with oxygen, become flabby and lethargic. And the accumulation of intercellular fluid and toxins leads to a rapid sagging of the facial contours.

Stitching with threads is dangerous for several reasons at once: there is a high risk of scar tissue and skin thickening; tissues lose elasticity and coarsen quickly; metabolic processes are disturbed in the subcutaneous layer, which leads to the formation of edema and premature wilting.

The methods of physiotherapy are not fully understood. It is only possible to speculate about their effects on the body after some amount of time.

Based on the foregoing, in the modern world there is now a tendency to evade all such manipulations, and methods based on natural rejuvenation agents, such as therapeutic mud, refined paraffin, seaweed, etc. are beginning to develop.

To eliminate all of the above drawbacks, it is proposed to use as a peeling powder consisting of a mixture of purified whey milk powder and whey powder whey permeate whey, while the powder has the following characteristics:

particle size, microns: 3.0-30.0;

dispersion - the number of fine fractions,%: 13.5-33.0

the residue on a sieve of 200 μm,%: 10.6-47.2

the residue on the sieve is 100 microns,% 51.5-75.6

acidity, ° T: 6.0-9.0

active acidity, pH (serum reduced to a mass fraction of solids of 6.0%)

units pH: 6.50-6.67

purity (group): I

and the components are taken in the following ratio:

dry whey,%: 10 - 90;

dry whey powder of whey permeate: 90-10.

A powder with such a dispersion ensures smoothness, rejuvenation and smoothing of the skin relief, after its application, the complexion improves, blemishes are brightened and brightened. The powder promotes deep hydration of the skin, reduces the visible signs of aging, creates a lifting effect, reduces the depth of wrinkles, smoothes fine wrinkles due to the fact that it stimulates the synthesis of young collagen and glycosaminoglycans in the skin.

The whey on the basis of which the powder is created is a valuable source of biologically active substances, its use in cosmetology is very promising. Our great-grandmothers, who were forced to use only natural cosmetics, knew that milk and yogurt are excellent cosmetics.

Most striking is the fact that the medicinal properties of serum were known in antiquity, and modern scientific studies only confirm the knowledge of the ancients. Few drugs can be proud of such a long history of use and such unanimity about their merits.

The serum was recommended to his patients by the father of medicine Hippocrates (c. 460 - c. 370 BC). Another founding father of medicine, Galen (c. 130 - c. 200 CE), also advised his patients to be treated with serum. For a while, he even headed the treatment center at the famous Salerno Medical School, built at the foot of the "Milky Mountain I" in Italy, between Sorrento and Naples.

Serum treatment courses were recommended by many other famous personalities in the history of medicine: an Islamic doctor and the author of more than two hundred scientific works, Ibn Sina, known in the West as Avicenna (980-1037); Thomas Sydenham (1624-1689), the "English Hippocrates", who especially recommended serum in the treatment of gout; Albrecht von Galler (1708-1777), Swiss biologist, father of neurology, who discovered the functions of bile; Christoph Wilhelm Gufeland (1762-1836), a German therapist who taught how to prolong life through a healthy lifestyle; and Samuel Auguste Andre Tissot (1728-1797), a doctor from Switzerland, the author of famous works on migraines, laying the foundation for future research for many generations of doctors.

Recent studies have shown the presence of a large number of biologically active substances in milk whey, mainly of a protein nature. I must say that for a long time, whey was almost never used, but simply poured into rivers and fields or processed into low-grade powder products.

Only recently, when technologies have appeared that make it possible to fractionate whey proteins on an industrial scale, the biological activity of whey has become of interest not only to theoretical researchers, but also to manufacturing practitioners.

In its composition, whey differs from milk only in the absence of casein, which forms flakes in an acidic environment that are familiar to anyone who has ever tasted yogurt. All other proteins remain in solution, and they can be separated only by ion-exchange chromatography. These are the proteins with diverse biological activity that attract the attention of researchers.

The main indicators of whey

1. Essential amino acids and growth factors.

The main whey proteins are lactoglobulin, lactalbumin, bovine serum albumin and immunoglobulin. As part of these proteins, a complete set of essential amino acids was found (Table 1), including branched chain amino acids, which play an important role in the energy supply of muscle tissue. In addition, some minor components and short chain peptides, which nevertheless have high biological activity, were isolated from whey. These are growth factors that stimulate the division of epithelial cells and fibroblasts, enzymes and immunomodulators, as well as the well-known antimicrobial agents - lysozyme, lactoferrin and lactoperoxidase. Below is the data in the table.

2. Regenerating compositions

The main task of regenerating cosmetic compositions is the stimulation of cell division of the basal layer of the epidermis. Almost all supplements that combine the term “regenerating”, to one degree or another, affect the rate of cell division. However, most often their role is secondary. They only create certain conditions in which cells divide better, but the division itself does not stimulate.

The true stimulants of cell division are the so-called growth factors, or mitogens.

Growth factors are low molecular weight proteins that are present in almost all tissues where they regulate cell growth and migration.

In the skin, growth factors, which are secreted mainly by macrophages, neutrophils, lymphocytes and fibroblasts, are responsible for the migration and differentiation of epithelial cells and stimulate cell division. Fibroblast growth factors play a large role in wound healing and inflammatory processes, and also affect the rate of collagen synthesis.

In order to understand whether this substance is really a mitogen, it is tested on cell cultures. If it starts the process of cell reproduction on a serum-free nutrient medium, it is referred to mitogen and is called a growth factor.

After this, it remains to determine whether this is a new growth factor or, as is most often the case, one of the already studied ones.

It was found that in whey, mitogenic activity is exerted by proteins that have a molecular weight close to the molecular weight of lactoglobulin and lactalbumin (and turn out with them during ultrafiltration), and the isoelectric point in ion exchange chromatography is the same as that of lactoperoxidase and lactoferrin. Since growth factors are easier to separate from lactoperoxidase than from lactoglobulin and lactalbumin (lactoperoxidase is inactivated by heating), ion exchange chromatography is used to obtain the mitogenic fraction of whey.

To date, insulin-like growth factor (IGF-1), a transforming growth factor (TGF-β), an acidic and alkaline fibroblast growth factor (acidic and basic fibroblast growth factor, FGF), milk growth factor (MGF). Experiments show that whey growth factors obtained by ion exchange chromatography stimulate the growth of human and murine fibroblasts, as well as myoblasts. In this case, the stimulating effect of whey proteins is equivalent to the effect of 10% bovine blood serum.

3. Immunostimulating properties and antioxidant protection.

It has long been known that milk has immunostimulating properties. It cannot be otherwise, because the immune system of the newborn is still not well formed and needs support. However, the immunomodulatory properties of whey have not been studied for a long time.

And recently, detailed studies of the immunomodulating properties of whey and its individual components have been carried out in Australia. It turned out that lactoperoxidase, lactoferrin and lactalbumin possess immunomodulating properties in whey. Lactoperoxidase and lactoferrin reduce the proliferation and production of interferon in activated lymphocytes, and lactalbumin increases the production of interleukin-1 (IL-1).

However, the effect of all these proteins on the immune response is weakened in the presence of other components of the whey and almost completely disappears in the crude serum. The better fractionation is performed, the more pronounced is the immunomodulatory effect of each component.

Thus, unrefined whey, which is most often used in cosmetics, is unlikely to affect the skin’s immune system in any way. Therefore, we offer whey powder that has been refined.

On the other hand, there is evidence that the action of whey on the skin's immune system can be carried out through the antioxidant glutathione (glutamylcysteinylglycine, glutamylcysteinylglycine - GSH).

In any case, under in vitro conditions, whey increased both the immune response of spleen cells to sheep erythrocytes and the content of glutathione in them. Moreover, in the presence of substances that reduce the level of glutathione in the spleen cells, the immune response was also weakened. A 2-fold decrease in the content of glutathione led to a four-fold weakening of the immune response. All this confirms the fact that whey can affect the immune system of the skin not directly, but indirectly through glutathione. The relationship between whey and glutathione is important not only from the point of view of the immune system. Glutathione is one of the main antioxidants of the body, therefore, an increase in its content means primarily an increase in antioxidant protection.

The problem of antioxidants in cosmetology has been discussed repeatedly. According to the free radical theory of aging, the main cause of senile changes in cells and tissues is damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals are formed as a result of non-enzymatic oxidation of biological molecules, especially lipids (enzymatic oxidation, by contrast, plays an important role in the body, supplying the energy necessary for life). Most toxic free radicals are formed during the oxidation of lipids in cell membranes. Free radicals formed as a result of lipid peroxidation of cell membranes damage proteins, lipid structures and nucleic acids. In order to slow down the aging process, antioxidant additives are introduced into cosmetics.

Today, hardly anyone will deny the need to increase the antioxidant protection of the skin. However, there are still no clear recommendations regarding which antioxidants and in what quantity should be introduced into cosmetics. Therefore, at present, many manufacturers and developers are trying to include in the cosmetic composition ready-made antioxidant mixtures created by nature itself.

Increasingly, in cosmetics you can find plant extracts with antioxidant activity. And yet, what was created for plants is not necessarily suitable for humans, although the basic protective mechanisms, in general, are similar in all organisms.

There is another way, which is to stimulate the skin's own antioxidant system. To do this, you can use substances that are building blocks, or co-factors of natural human antioxidants. According to this principle, whey also exhibits antioxidant activity. It was found that it contains a large amount of glutamylcysteine - the main precursor of the antioxidant glutathione.

Glutathione (GSH) is paired with the enzyme glutathione peroxidase. Together they neutralize hydrogen peroxide and turn it into water.

In addition, the glutathione / glutathione peroxidase system interacts with toxic lipid hydroperoxides and translates them into a safer form:

As you know, antioxidants do not work alone. Almost all of them are connected in a common chain in which they mutually support and restore each other. Glutathione is the main link in this chain. Were it not for glutathione, vitamin E and vitamin C would be destroyed irreversibly. Only glutathione allows vitamin C, which is not synthesized in the body, to regenerate all the time, like a fabulous phoenix.

As experiments have shown, a diet enriched with whey proteins prevents oxidative stress in rats with a deficiency of vitamin E in the body. Exactly the same effect is observed if glutathione or its precursor glutamylcysteine is introduced instead of whey. Other studies show that whey protein intake leads to an increase in glutathione in body tissues. Interestingly, the level of glutathione after the consumption of whey increases only in normal cells, while in tumor cells, on the contrary, it decreases.

Thus, the antioxidant defense of the body as a whole is increased, and the tumor cells are weakened. Consequently, they become more vulnerable, and in particular, it is more difficult for them to defend themselves against the cells of the immune system.

I must say that both cysteine itself and its metabolites also have antioxidant effects. All this allows us to conclude that whey can be an effective and safe antioxidant supplement in cosmetics. Since glutathione prevents the consumption of other antioxidants, such as vitamins E and C, their content in cosmetics (which sometimes reaches critical values) can be reduced.

4. Exfoliation and exposure to the deeper layers of the skin.

This is based on the ability of alpha-hydroxy acids (including such well-known whey agents as glycolic and lactic acids) to exfoliate the skin and thus eliminate small wrinkles and some other defects. Today, the views on the role of the stratum corneum, a thin film of dead cells covering the skin, have also changed. In particular, it was shown that by acting on the stratum corneum, it is possible to change the functioning of the deeper layers of the skin.

Summing up, we have to admit that the empirical approach is often no worse than the scientific one, and, using milk whey intensively, our great-grandmothers were absolutely right. Based on the composition of the serum, it should have a protective and regenerating effect on the skin. In addition, it is an ingredient whose safety has been tested for centuries.

The production technology of the powder we offer ensures the preservation of all serum qualities in almost full volume. When fresh liquid whey is made dry, the ratio of these elements changes. Dry whey naturally contains more nutrients, since the liquid component has been removed from it. But with the addition of water, the concentration of elements in this whey made from powder again approaches the values of fresh whey.

From the foregoing, it is clear that the proposed whey powder is concentrated whey, because when using it, we do not dilute it with water, but only apply it on wet skin.

By organoleptic characteristics, the powder meets the following requirements:

Appearance and consistency. Fine powder or powder consisting of single and agglomerated particles of dry whey. A small amount of lumps crumbling with a light mechanical impact is allowed.

Color. From white to yellow, uniform throughout the mass.

Taste and smell. Inherent in whey, sweetish-salty.

Microbiology

KMAFANM, (CFU / g) no more than 6.000

Yeast (CFU / g) <10

BGKP (coliforms) (g) <10

E. coli (g) <10

Salmonella Spp (in 25 grams) 0

Essential Amino Acids

Arginine 0.33 g

Valine 0.58 g 31%

Histidine 0.23 g 21%

Isoleucine 0.58 g 39%

Leucine 1.12 g 34%

Lysine 1.01 g 33%

Methionine 0.22 g

Methionine + Cysteine 0.43 g 29%

Threonine 0.59 g 37%

Tryptophan 0.24 g 60%

Phenylalanine 0.39 g

Phenylalanine + Tyrosine 0.69 g 25%

Essential Amino Acids

Aspartic acid 1.15 g

Alanya 0.51 g

Glycine 0.21 g

Glutamic acid 2.1 g

Proline 0.7 g

Serene 0.54 g

Tyrosine 0.3 g

Cysteine 0.21 g

Fats and Fatty Acids

Saturated Fat: 0.34 g 2%

4: 0 Oil 0.02 g

6: 0 Kapron 0.01 g

8: 0 Caprylic 0.01 g

10: 0 Caprica 0.01 g

12: 0 Lauric 0.01 g

14: 0 Myristic 0.05 g

16: 0 Palmitic 0.15 g

18: 0 Stearic 0.06 g

Monounsaturated Fat: 0.15 g 1%

16: 1 Palmitoleic 0.03 g

18: 1 Oleic 0.11 g

Polyunsaturated fat: 0.02 g 0%

18: 2 Linoleic 0.02 g

Vitamins

Fat soluble

Vitamin A, RAE: 17 mcg 2%

Vitamin A, Retinol 17 mcg

Vitamin A, ME 59 IU

Water soluble

Vitamin C 0.9 mg 1%

Vitamin B1, Thiamine 0.62 mg 41%

Vitamin B2, Riboflavin 2.06 mg 114%

Vitamin B5, Pantothenic Acid 5.63 mg 113%

Vitamin B6, Pyridoxine 0.62 mg 31%

Vitamin B9, Folate: 33 mcg 8%

Folate Natural 33 mcg

Folate DEF 33 mcg

Vitamin B12, Cobalamin: 2.5 mcg 83%

Vitamin PP, Niacin 1.16 mg 6%

Vitamin PP, NE 5.18 mg 26%

Vitamin-like

Vitamin B4, Choline 225 mg 45%

Minerals

Potassium, K 2289 mg 92%

Calcium, Ca 2054 mg 205%

Magnesium, Mg 199 mg 50%

Sodium, Na 968 mg 74%

Phosphorus, P 1349 mg 169%

Trace elements

Iron, Fe 1.24 mg 7%

Manganese, Mn 0.02 mg 1%

Copper, Cu 0.05 mg 5%

Selenium, Se 27.3 mcg 50%

Zinc, Zn 6.31 mg 53%

Carbohydrates

Carbohydrates total: 73.45 g 25%

Dietary fiber 0 g 0%

Starch ~

Sugar: 73.45 g 147%

Sugar added 0 g

Other

Alcohol, Ethyl Alcohol 0 g

Ash 10.77 g

Caffeine 0 mg

Theobromine 0 mg.

The powder is used as follows: a small amount of powder is applied to wet skin and gently massage the skin with your fingers, especially all problem areas. It is forbidden to influence those areas where there is an inflammatory process. Then leave the mixture on the face until completely dry. Next, the powder is washed off with cool water.

Using the powder we offer allows you to act immediately in three directions: when using this tool to get skin scrubbing (pre-peeling), which allows you to even out the thickened and uneven keratinous skin layer as much as possible, which contributes to a more uniform penetration of acids and nutrients in the process of further peeling. Moreover, the particle size of the powder is selected so that the effect on the skin is very soft, but at the same time a more uniform removal of the keratinized layer is achieved, which is very noticeable to touch immediately after the procedure. Then peeling occurs with the acids that make up the powder, as well as the saturation of the already prepared skin with the most valuable substances indicated by us above, contained in milk serum.

You can apply the powder at any age and for all types of skin: as a result of applying the powder to oily or dry dehydrated skin, it is moisturized, matted, pores are smoothed, cleansed, and a greasy shine disappears.

I would especially like to say about skin with post-acne. Usually it has pore enlargement, persistent erythema (bluish tint), scars and spots. The powder shows excellent results when caring for such skin.

When applying the powder to the scalp, it cleanses the scalp from hyperkeratosis, enhances microcirculation and prevents hair loss. Nourishes the scalp and hair roots.

Claims (4)

The use of a powder from a mixture of purified whey dry milk powder and whey powder whey permeate whey as a skin peeling, while the powder has the following characteristics: particle size, microns: 3.0 - 30.0 dispersion - the number of fine fractions,%: 13.5-33.0 the residue on a sieve of 200 μm,%: 10.6-47.2 the residue on the sieve is 100 μm,% 51.5-75.6 acidity, ° T: 6.0-9.0 active acidity, pH of serum recovered to a mass fraction of solids of 6.0% units. pH: 6.50-6.67 purity (group): I and the components are taken in the following ratio: dry whey,%: 10-90 dry whey powder 90-10