RU2704461C1 - Method of long-term hair styling with keratin composition - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: technological processes.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to hairdressing equipment, and more specifically to a combined hair treatment method using heating and chemicals, and is intended for use in specialized hairdressing salons for long-term up to three months styling of hair with length from 5 cm. Invention objective is to simplify the procedure for creating a long-term radical volume of hair due to exclusion of using shaping elements, shorter time for hair styling by performing a procedure for creating a long-term root volume and straightening the remaining part of hair for one client visit, avoiding the use of chemical compounds damaging the hair structure by using creatine compositions restoring the hair structure. At the first stage, a radical area of the head is created with treatment of a keratinous composition with subsequent sealing by corrugation forceps. At the second stage, the remaining hair is straightened along the whole length by treatment with the same keratin composition followed by flattening iron with smooth plates.

EFFECT: simple procedure of creating a long root hair volume by eliminating the use of shaping elements, shorter time for hair styling.

7 cl, 14 dwg

Description

The invention relates to techniques for hairdressing, and more specifically, to a combined method of processing hair using heat and chemicals and is intended for use in specialized hairdressing salons for long-term up to three months of hair styling with a length of 5 cm

Hair is a filamentous biomaterial that grows from the follicles found in the skin. Human hair has many textures, from thin to coarse and from straight to curly. The outermost layer of the hair thread is called a cuticle and consists of translucent scales that cover the hair thread. The cuticle protects the hair from environmental damage and is sensitive to pH changes: at high pH, the flakes open, providing the possibility of external influences, which is usually used when processing hair from straightening to dyeing. Hair consists mainly (about 88%) of keratin, a protein made up of polypeptide helix chains. Polypeptides have a high cystine content, which leads to intense crosslinking through a disulfide bond. This crosslinking gives the hair strength and abrasion resistance, and also determines its shape. Curly hair is made from strands of hair with irregular surfaces that get tangled, combing and shaping is more complicated than straight hair. Therefore, it has become popular among many people to straighten hair in order to increase manageability and facilitate styling. Previously, strongly alkaline agents at pH were used to straighten hair. 12-14 for the continuous conversion of cross-linking disulfide bonds in cystine to lanthionine. During this harsh chemical treatment, the hair is mechanically supported in a direct configuration. In a milder, alternative process of hair relaxation, cystine disulfide bonds are chemically reduced to produce temporary cysteine residues. Typical reducing agents used in these processes include thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate and bisulfite. They are usually used at high pH (for example, 9.5). At the second stage of processing, a neutralizer / fixer is used to restore the pH balance of the hair and for reprocessing disulfide crosslinks, as well as mechanical straightening and smoothing at 200 ° C. This process leads to prolonged straightening, but damages the hair and takes a relatively long time (4-6 hours). Taking into account all the above properties of hair and the answers to various chemical treatments, the inventors have developed new and improved formulations, systems and methods of hair straightening.

Demand for long-term (1-6 months) hair straightening systems that eliminate curls from curly or wavy hair, which leads to a more direct form without the use of harsh chemicals, has grown in recent years. The popular long-term hair straightening process known as escova progressiva was first introduced in Brazil. Known as “Brazilian hair straightening” or “keratin straightening,” this process can provide results lasting up to 5 months and uses high temperatures (usually 230 ° C), keratin lysate and elevated levels (1-5%) of formaldehyde as its main components. The highly toxic nature of formaldehyde, the proven human carcinogen and the high temperatures used in the process, raise legitimate concerns about its safety for stylists and clients. In addition, similar methods have appeared that replace toxic formaldehyde with chemicals such as glyoxal.

In the invention (US 2016158138 (A1) - 2016-06-09, IPC A61K 8/04: A61K 8/34: A61K 8/41. EP 2694834 (A2) - 2014-02-12, KERATIN-BASED HAIR STRAIGHTENING FORMULATIONS, METHODS AND SYSTEMS) [1] a hair straightening system is proposed that includes compositions that safely and effectively straighten curly hair for at least 2-3 months after one use, despite frequent hair washing. Methods for preparing said compositions are disclosed, and hair straightening systems are provided, including shampoo and one or more conditioners. A method for straightening the amount of curly hair, comprising: applying the composition for straightening hair to the number of curly hair, said hair straightening composition containing one or more organic acids and where (1) one or more organic acids reduce the pH of the composition for straightening hair in the range from more than than or up to 2.45 to less than 4.0 and (2) one or more organic acids of the hair straightening composition reduces the disulfide bonds of curly hair, so that curly hair supports direct conf guration, at least two months after the mechanical straightening. The method further includes applying one or more crosslinking agents and / or one or more keratin protein fractions to the amount of curly hair. The hair is thoroughly washed with a cleansing shampoo and dried with a towel. Then the drug is applied to wet hair, combed or rubbed into the hair and left to process for 20-30 minutes. Then the hair is thoroughly dried and smoothed at a temperature of 220 ° C.

A known method of hair restoration and straightening (RU 2230473 - 06/20/2004, IPC A45D 7/04) [2], includes washing and rinsing the hair; applying an alkaline hair straightening solution to the hair; exposure to an alkaline hair straightening solution on the hair before the hair transitions into a structurally elastic state; rinsing out the alkaline hair straightening solution; applying a hair-restoring solution to the hair; applying styling to the hair structure before oxidation by pressing said hair when heated; applying an acid rinse to the hair; applying a neutralizing solution to the hair for a period of time sufficient to eliminate the structurally elastic state of the hair and rinsing the neutralizing solution from the hair. The hair is stroked with small curls with effort, preferably the curls have a diameter of approximately 3/4 cm. Smoothing begins about 2 cm from the skin of the skull and is conducted towards the ends of the hair. Pressing the iron is cyclically applied in an overlapping manner along the entire length of the curl of hair. Then a new curl is selected and smoothing is repeated until all hair is ironed. Smoothing the step before oxidation usually takes from about half an hour to about one and a half hours, depending on the length of the hair. The method takes about three to four hours, but the effects of this method can last up to six months.

According to the method of shaping and volume of a human hair (WO 9932067 (A2) - 1999-07-01, IPC A45D 7/04) [3] - a) an alkaline permanent agent with a pH of 7.6-11 is applied to the hair based on a substance, keratin reducing hair; b) the permanent installation agent is left to act on the hair for 5-30 minutes at room temperature or 20 minutes at high temperature; c) the hair is washed with water; d) the hair is treated with an aqueous acidic intermediate processing agent with a pH of 2-6.5 based on salt, betaine, an aliphatic organic acid and / or an aliphatic amino acid; e) excess fluid is removed; f) the hair is curled on curlers; g) the hair is allowed to rest for up to 20 minutes at room temperature or up to 20 minutes at high temperature; h) the hair is treated after step e) or step g) with a fixing agent which is based on an oxidizing agent; i) if curlers or other shaped bodies are used, they are removed; j) the fixing agent is rinsed out of the hair with water or washed off with shampoo, and the hair is combed in the desired style.

To date, various methods of long-term hair styling with the creation of a basal volume are known.

So, the BOOST UP procedure (Boost Up) is known, which consists in wrapping hair in the root zone on hairpins. When wrapping hair is treated with a chemical composition for curling hair. Disadvantages:

- after a few months, the growth and sliding of the volume is possible;

- after the procedure, after a while, there may be dryness and brittleness of the hair;

- the procedure is quite lengthy and takes an average of 3-4 hours.

Technique BOUFFANT (Buffant), aka felling consists in wrapping hair on Velcro curlers. At the same time, fleece is done on the hair and the hair is treated with a chemical composition for curling. The disadvantage of this method is that the hair after the procedure becomes of poor quality due to combing, after a few months the volume can regrow and slip, after the procedure after a while there may be dry and brittle hair.

Technique Bio (Eco) Vallume (Bio volume) creates a basal volume lasting up to three months, is performed using special plastic hair clips, clips (clips) and subsequent hair treatment with chemical sucking. After the procedure, after a while there may be dryness and brittleness of the hair, after a few months, the volume can regrow and grow.

A known method of long-term deformation of keratin fibers (JP 2008260750 (A) - 2008-10-30 IPC A45D 7/04) [4]. includes the step of installing tension layers of keratin fibers, then the step of applying a restorative composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one reducing agent in an amount of 0.1-3 wt. % based on the total weight of the reducing composition on keratin fibers in order to reduce the bond of keratin with disulfide, then after an additional rinse, the stage of drying of keratin fibers, then the stage of fixation of oxidation. The reducing composition contains at least one reducing agent selected from the group consisting of sulfite, hydrosulfite, thiols and phosphines in a cosmetically acceptable medium. The tension of keratin fibers can be carried out, for example, using elastic, clips, ridges, rods, threads or using a curler for tulips. The applicant showed that the use of a regenerating composition containing cysteine, allows to obtain an increase in hair volume both at the root level by separation, and at any length, including on short and thin hair.

According to a known method for creating a basal volume of hair Volume On (options) (RU 2611307 from 02.21.2017). IPC A45D 7/04) [5] carry out the layout of the hair into separate strands, placement of the forming elements on the root zone, wrapping the hair on the forming elements, fixing them and treating the hair with a hair curler without thioglycol, hair wrapping on the forming elements is carried out without combing hair . In this case, the hair wrap is performed with a brace backward from the face on the parietal and upper occipital area, and on the temporal lateral zones, the cheat is performed horizontally with the hair drawn downward, while the curling composition is shed only along the basal area, without affecting the hair in length . The applicant claims that a long-term basal volume of hair is achieved, in which the hair structure is preserved and the hair is not injured, while less time is spent on the procedure itself.

A progressive trend in the field of long-term hair styling is hair straightening and the creation of a basal volume using keratin compounds. When the hair becomes dull and dry, this indicates a decrease in the level of keratin in them. Artificial treatment with this substance provides them with the necessary protein. The result is immediately visible, the texture of the hair shaft becomes smooth, shiny. Keratin is obtained from the wool of sheep grown in pure conditions. This protein is completely biocompatible and not dangerous to humans.

The market offers the best, according to hairdressing specialists, keratin compounds: Brazilian Blowout, Global Keratin, Hair Kosmetics, Bio-Ionic, Cadiveu, Coppola Keratin Complex.

In the hairdressing technique, hair is straightened with one composition and on one day, and the root volume is created, as a rule, using a different keratin composition on another day, which increases the process time. In addition, to create a basal volume using forming elements with pile, which also leads to an increase in the process time and damage to the hair structure.

The objective of the present invention is to develop technology for long-term hair styling with a composition containing keratin, reducing the time for the procedure of straightening hair and creating a basal volume by performing these procedures in one visit to the client and by eliminating the use of forming elements such as elastic, clips, combs, rods , threads or using a curler for tulips to create a basal volume.

The technical result of the present invention is to simplify the procedure for creating long-term basal hair volume by eliminating the use of forming elements, reducing hair styling due to the procedure for creating long-term basal hair volume and straightening the remaining part of hair after one visit to the client, eliminating the use of chemical compounds that damage the structure hair through the use of creatine compounds that restore the structure of hair.

The prior art does not know the combination of the procedure for creating long-term volume and hair straightening using restoring keratin complexes with one visit to the client.

The specified technical result is achieved in that the method of long-term hair styling with a keratic composition is characterized by the following steps:

a) - prepare the hair for the procedure according to the instructions of the applied keratin complex;

b) - allocate the area of the proposed zone of basal volume;

c) - the rest of the hair, so as not to interfere, is fixed with clips;

d) - in the zone of the estimated basal volume, parallel strands separate strands 0.5-2 cm thick on both sides of the usual or natural parting, while this zone does not participate in applying the composition and sealing;

e) apply the working keratin composition with a brush to the hair of the proposed zone of the basal volume as close to the scalp from 2.5 to 10 cm in length depending on the desired subsequent volume, then remove the excess composition and maintain the composition on the hair for a period of time before sealing specified by the instructions used keratin composition;

f) - the area of the estimated basal volume is dried 100% cold in combination with a hair dryer alternately warm with air;

g) - a strand 0.5-1 cm thick with a guy by 90 degrees relative to the surface of the scalp is separated by a horizontal parting;

h) - using forceps - the corrugation is clamped each strand for 2 seconds from 7 to 10 times, starting from the basal zone and then throughout the area where the working composition was applied and sealed on each strand at a temperature specified by the applied keratin composition and repeated the procedure for the entire hair area of the estimated basal volume, except for the highlighted yarn of a natural or habitual parting;

i) - cool the hair of the root zone with cold air for 3 minutes or naturally for 20 minutes, rinse all the hair with plenty of warm water without using shampoo or using the technology of the composition used and apply a fixing mask over the entire length of the hair with a shutter speed of 10 minutes, then rinse water

k) - dry the hair with warm air of the hair dryer and complete the procedure according to the technology of the applied keratin composition,

then proceed to the procedure of straightening the rest of the hair with the same keratin composition, for this, perform the following steps:

a) - stab the area of the obtained basal volume;

b) - on previously prepared hair for the procedure of applying the keratin composition along the entire length of the hair, apply the composition to all hair along their length with a brush as close to the scalp as possible and maintain the composition in accordance with the instructions of the applied keratin composition;

c) - prepare the hair for sealing the composition in accordance with the instructions of the applied keratin composition;

d) - dry hair with cold air in combination with warm with a hairdryer 100%;

d) - starting from the lower occipital zone of the head, hair is straightened along its entire length with an iron with smooth plates to the selected area of the basal volume using the technology of the applied keratin composition. And complete the hair straightening procedure.

In preferred embodiments of the method:

- cool the hair of the root zone with cold air for 3 minutes or naturally for 20 minutes;

- exposure fixing mask is 10 minutes;

- the Brazilian Blowout complex was used as a keratin composition;

- Global Keratin complex was used as a keratin composition;

- as a keratin composition used complex Hair Kosmetics;

- the complex Bio-Ionic was used as a keratin composition;

- the Cadiveu complex was used as a keratin composition;

- Coppola Keratin Complex was used as a keratin composition.

Keratin formulations give long-term form to keratin fibers due to formaldehyde or its derivatives or acids. Under the influence of these components, followed by sealing due to crystallization of the composition, the hair is given the required shape - a basal volume or straightening along the entire length with a simultaneous improvement in the structure of the hair, giving it shine. In the inventive method for creating a basal volume and hair straightening along the entire length of the hair styling, a technique is developed for using known keratin compositions.

The inventive method combines the creation of basal volume day after day with keratin straightening or (Botox) hair, as it uses the same selected composition. With other root volume techniques, combining with keratin straightening is not recommended to be done day to day, and if you do, then because of the different formulations used, the procedure will take 2.5-4 hours longer.

Currently, the procedure for long-term keratin straightening is gaining popularity, but it has its minus - the root volume is leaving. The inventive combining technique solves this problem by simultaneously increasing the volume.

The method of long-term hair styling with a keratin composition is illustrated by photographs, where:

FIG. 1 - allocation of a zone on the crown of the head to create a basal volume.

FIG. 2 - allocation of the zone on the crown of the head, shifted to the back of the head to create a basal volume.

FIG. 3-allocation of the zone on the crown of the head, shifted to the nape of the client, to create a basal volume.

FIG. 4 - fixing part of the hair for subsequent straightening, where a) is a rear view, b) is a side view.

FIG. 5 - separation of the strands to create a basal volume using a clip.

FIG. 6 - the process of sealing keratin composition on the hair using a flat ironing - corrugation when creating a basal volume.

FIG. 7 - applying a flat iron when sealing the creatine composition while straightening the part of the hair remaining after creating the root volume, where a) - applying the iron to the upper strand, b) - applying the iron to the next strand from the bottom, c) - the type of straightened hair.

FIG. 8 is a photograph of a client with a haircut prior to a long hair styling procedure.

FIG. 9 is a photograph of a client with a haircut after a procedure for long-term hair styling with a keratin composition according to the claimed method.

FIG. 10 is a photograph of a client in full face with a haircut before the procedure according to the claimed method.

FIG. 11. - photo of the client in full view with a haircut after the procedure of long-term hair styling with a keratin composition according to the claimed method.

The method of long-term hair styling with a keratic composition is performed in two stages.

The first stage is the creation of a basal volume of hair with a creatine composition, the second stage is the straightening of the remaining part of the hair after creating a basal volume using the same creatine complex.

Operations to create a basal volume of hair are performed in the following sequence:

a) - prepare all the hair for the procedure according to the instructions of the applied keratin complex;

b) - isolate the area of the proposed zone of basal volume, as shown in FIG. 1-3;

c) - the rest of the hair, so as not to interfere, is fixed with clamps, which is illustrated in the photo of FIG. 4a), b);

g) - in the zone of the estimated basal volume, parallel strands separate strands 0.5–2 cm thick on both sides of the usual or natural parting, while this zone does not participate in applying the composition and sealing, FIG. 5;

e) apply the working keratin composition with a brush to the hair of the proposed zone of the basal volume as close to the scalp from 2.5 to 10 cm in length, depending on the desired subsequent volume, then remove the excess composition and before sealing, keep the composition on the hair over time specified by the instructions used keratin composition;

f) - the area of the estimated basal volume is dried 100% cold in combination with a hair dryer alternately warm with air;

g) - a strand 0.5-1 cm thick with a guy by 90 degrees relative to the surface of the scalp is separated by a horizontal parting;

h) - using forceps - the corrugation is clamped each strand for 2 seconds from 7 to 10 times, starting from the basal zone and then throughout the area where the working composition was applied and sealed on each strand at a temperature specified by the applied keratin composition and repeated a procedure for the entire hair area of the estimated basal volume, except for a highlighted strand of a natural or habitual parting;

i) - cool the hair of the root zone with cold air for 3 minutes or naturally for 20 minutes, rinse all the hair with plenty of warm water without using shampoo or using the technology of the composition used and apply a fixing mask over the entire length of the hair with a shutter speed of 10 minutes, then rinse water

k) - dry the hair with warm air of the hair dryer and complete the procedure according to the technology of the applied keratin composition,

At the second stage, they begin to straighten the part of the hair remaining after the procedure for creating a basal volume, for this the following sequence of actions is performed:

a) - stab the area of the obtained basal volume as shown in FIG. 4a, b;

b) - on the hair previously prepared at the first stage, the composition is applied to the hair along the entire length with a brush as close to the scalp as possible and the composition is maintained in accordance with the instructions of the applied keratin composition;

c) - prepare the hair for sealing the composition in accordance with the instructions of the applied keratin composition;

d) - dry hair with cold air in combination with warm with a hairdryer 100%;

e) - starting from the lower occipital zone of the head, straighten the horizontally selected strands along their entire length with an iron with smooth plates to the highlighted basal volume region using the technology of the applied keratin composition and complete the procedure in accordance with the instructions for the applied keratin composition, as shown in the photo of FIG. . 7a), b), c).

As can be seen from the comparison of the photo in FIG. 8, 10 (hairstyle prior to styling by the claimed method) and the photo in FIG. 9, 11 (hair styling by the claimed method), a good result was obtained - an increase in the basal volume in the upper part of the client's head and straightening the rest of the hair.

The inventive method is suitable for use by girls with any type of hair with a length of 3 cm or more, the hair looks thicker and lush. What is especially important for thin hair, hair prone to greasy at the roots will be less greasy, the use of styling products becomes minimal, the resulting root volume is not afraid of wind, heat, chlorine water, a bath, a sauna, a shower and after drying, the volume will always be in place . Subject to the technology, after three months, the basal volume disappears, that is, there will be no effect of the volume slipping into the middle of the strand.

Information sources:

1.US 2016158138 (A1) - 2016-06-09, IPC A61K 8/04: A61K 8/34: A61K 8/41. EP 2694834 (A2) - 2014-02-12.

2. RU 2230 473 - 06/20/2004, IPC A45D 7/04.

3. WO 9932067 (A2) - 1999-07-01, IPC A45D 7/04

4. JP 2008260750 (A) - 2008-10-30 IPC A45D 7/04.

5. RU 2611307 dated 02.21.2017. IPC A45D 7/04.

Claims (22)

1. A method of long-term hair styling with a keratin composition, characterized by the following steps in the first stage: a) - prepare the hair for the procedure according to the instructions of the applied keratin complex; b) - allocate the area of the proposed zone of basal volume; c) - the rest of the hair, so as not to interfere, is fixed with clips; d) - in the zone of the estimated basal volume, parallel strands separate strands 0.5–2 cm thick on both sides of the usual or natural parting, while this zone does not participate in applying the composition and sealing; d) - apply the working keratin composition with a brush to the hair of the proposed zone of the basal volume as close to the scalp from 2.5 to 10 cm in length, depending on the desired subsequent volume, then remove the excess composition and before sealing, keep the composition on the hair for the time specified by the instruction of the applied keratin composition; f) - the area of the estimated basal volume is dried 100% cold in combination with a hair dryer alternately warm with air; g) - a strand 0.5-1 cm thick with a guy by 90 degrees relative to the surface of the scalp is separated by a horizontal parting; h) - with the help of crimping tongs, each strand is clamped for 2 seconds from 7 to 10 times, starting from the root zone and then throughout the area where the working composition was applied and the composition is sealed on each strand at a temperature specified by the applied keratin composition and repeated the procedure for the entire hair area of the estimated basal volume, except for a highlighted strand of a natural or habitual parting; i) - cool the hair of the root zone with cold air or naturally, rinse all the hair with plenty of warm water without using shampoo or using the technology of the composition used and apply a fixing mask over the entire length of the hair for 10 minutes, then rinse with water; k) - dry the hair with warm air of the hair dryer and complete the procedure using the technology of the applied keratin composition, at the second stage proceed to the procedure of straightening the rest of the hair with the same keratin composition, for this, perform the following steps: a) - stab the area of the obtained basal volume; b) - on previously prepared hair for the procedure of applying the keratin composition along the entire length of the hair, apply the composition to all hair along their length with a brush as close to the scalp as possible and maintain the composition in accordance with the instructions of the applied keratin composition; c) - prepare the hair for sealing the composition in accordance with the instructions of the applied keratin composition; d) - dry hair with cold air in combination with warm with a hairdryer 100%; e) - starting from the lower occipital zone of the head, straighten hair along its entire length with an iron with smooth plates to the selected area of the basal volume using the technology of the applied keratin composition and complete the hair straightening procedure. 2. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that cool the hair of the root zone with cold air for 3 minutes or naturally for 20 minutes. 3. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that the exposure time of the fixing mask is 10 minutes. 4. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that the Brazilian Blowout complex is used as the keratin composition. 5. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that as a keratin composition used complex Global Keratin. 6. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that as a keratin composition used complex Hair Kosmetics. 7. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that a strand of hair is blown out by blowing air, the strand is separated by straight parting, followed by blowing of the directed hair dryer air along the entire length, separating the shorter hairs of the selected strand from the main mass of the strand, then the short hairs are sealed with even plates along the entire length, after which the bulk of the strands are sealed in the basal zone with crimper tongs, and the rest of the length — with even plates, and the effect of breaking a clear transition of the corrugation lines is obtained.

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