RU2703298C2 - Improved decolouration of dyed keratinous fibres - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetic industry.

SUBSTANCE: group of inventions relates to the cosmetic industry, in particular to a kit for restorative decolouration of dyed keratin fibres, wherein separately packaged are: (I) container (A) containing cosmetic agent (a); (II) container (B) containing cosmetic agent (b); (III) container (C) containing an aqueous cosmetic agent (c); wherein means (a) in container (A) comprises (a1) a reducing agent which is selected from sodium dithionite; agent (b) in container (B) contains (b1) water and (b2) 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid and agent (c) in container (C) contains (c1) methanesulphonic acid and oxalic acid, (c2) one or more zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, and relates to a method for restorative decolouration of dyed keratin fibres.

EFFECT: group of inventions provides prolonged decolouration effect.

13 cl, 6 tbl

Description

The present invention relates to multicomponent packaging units (sets of parts), which are designed for restorative discoloration of colored keratin fibers and contain containers (A), (B) and (C) packaged separately from each other. Moreover, the container (A) contains a cosmetic (a) containing at least one selected reducing agent, the container (B) contains a cosmetic (b) that acts as an excipient, and the container (C) contains an aqueous cosmetic (c) containing at least one inorganic and / or organic acid; and at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant. Another object of the present invention is a method for reducing bleaching of colored keratin fibers using the described multi-component packaging unit.

Compositions for toning and dyeing hair are an important type of cosmetic. They can serve to slightly or strongly nuance the natural hair color according to the desire of a particular user, to obtain a completely different hair color or to cover undesirable color shades, such as, for example, gray hair. Conventional hair dyeing agents are based on oxidative dyes or direct dyes, depending on the desired color or durability. Often, combinations of oxidative and direct dyes are also used to achieve special shades.

Oxidizing dye stains provide brilliant and long-lasting color tones. However, they cause the use of strong oxidizing agents, such as, for example, hydrogen peroxide solutions. Such coloring agents contain oxidative dye precursors, the so-called developing and binding components. Manifesting components under the action of oxidizing agents or oxygen, reacting with each other or when combined with one or more binding components, form the actual dyes.

Coloring agents based on direct dyes are often used for short-term staining. In the case of direct dyes, we are talking about dye compounds that are applied directly to the hair and do not require oxidative processes to form the color. Important representatives of this class of dyes are, for example, triphenylmethane dyes, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes or nitrobenzene dyes, which may contain cationic or anionic groups, respectively.

In the case of all these dyeing processes, situations may occur where dyeing for various reasons must be carried out in full or in part in a reversible manner. Partial dyeing is required, for example, when the final dyeing of the fibers is darker than required. On the other hand, in many cases complete elimination of the color may also be required. So, for example, it may be required that the hair for a particular case should be dyed or tinted with a certain shade, and after a few days the original color should be returned.

Means and methods for eliminating color have already been described in the literature. A sufficiently known method in the prior art to make dyeing reversible is the oxidative bleaching of dyed hair, for example, using a conventional blonding agent. During this process, the fibers can be damaged due to the use of strong oxidizing agents. In addition, restoration processes have also been described previously regarding the elimination of color. So, for example, in European application EP 1300136 A2, a hair treatment method is disclosed, according to which the hair is dyed in the first stage and bleached again in the second stage due to the restoration process. In this case, reductive decolorization is carried out using a composition containing a dithionite salt and a surfactant. In WO 2008/055756 A2, reductive bleaching of keratin fibers is carried out with a mixture of a reducing agent and an absorbent.

When restorative bleaching agents are used, bleaching occurs due to restoration of the dye located on keratin fibers or hair. Due to the restoration, dyes are usually translated into their reconstituted leukoforms. During this process, the double bonds present in the dyes are reduced, so that the chromophore system of dyes is destroyed and the dye is converted into a colorless form.

The main problem in the case of reducing bleaching agents known in the prior art is that colored keratin fibers, although using a reducing agent, may initially be bleached, however, the elimination of the color is not long. In particular, in the case of hair dyed by the oxidative method, when the color on the hair appears due to the precursors of oxidative dyes such as developers and binding agents, the color is obtained only partially with very good strength properties. When using a restorative bleaching agent, these dyes are only converted to unpainted compounds due to reduction, which, however, due to the similar good resistance properties, remain on the hair, as before.

After washing off the reducing agent due to the subsequent action of atmospheric oxygen, these reduced forms can gradually be oxidized repeatedly. As a result of this reoxidation, more or less strongly pronounced reverse staining occurs. This return dyeing, as a rule, does not correspond to the color shade in which the keratin fibers were dyed earlier, and may be any unattractive and therefore may be completely undesirable for the consumer bleaching agent.

Thus, it was an object of the present invention to provide a bleaching agent for bleaching colored keratin fibers, which bleaches colored keratin fibers as completely as possible. Bleaching should be maintained for a long time, and bleached keratin fibers should not undergo re-dyeing, color shift, or darkening under the influence of air oxygen. The bleaching agent should preferably exhibit good bleaching effectiveness in the case of keratin fibers that have previously been dyed with oxidative dyes based on oxidative dye precursors such as developers and binding agents.

It has unexpectedly turned out that due to the use of a reducing bleaching agent, said reverse darkening can be effectively suppressed when the keratin fibers, which have been bleached with a reducing method, after bleaching, are also treated with an additional treatment agent that contains one or more acids from the group of inorganic and / or organic acids and one or several zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

The first object of the present invention is a multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) for restorative discoloration of dyed keratin fibers, in which individually are packaged:

(I) a container (A) containing a cosmetic product (a);

(Ii) a container (B) containing a cosmetic (b);

(Iii) a container (C) containing an aqueous cosmetic (c);

moreover:

- the tool (a) in the container (A) contains:

(a1) one or more reducing agents from the group of sodium dithionite, zinc dithionite, potassium dithionite, sodium sulfite, sodium hydrogen sulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium hydrogen sulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate, ammonium thiosulfate, hydroxymethanesulfinic acid, aminomethanesulfinic acid , cysteine, thiolactic acid, sulfanilacetic acid (thioglycolic acid) and / or ascorbic acid;

- the tool (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c1) one or more acids from the group of inorganic and / or organic acids;

(c2) one or more zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

The multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention contains individually packaged containers (A) and (B), which contain means (a) and (b), respectively. The agent (a) contains at least one reducing agent (a1). In the case of the agent (b), it is an excipient composition which can be formulated in an aqueous or anhydrous form. By mixing both means (a) and (b), i.e. By mixing the agent (a) containing the reducing agent with the excipient (b), a ready-to-use bleaching agent is obtained.

The multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention also comprises a third separately packaged container (C) with means (c). In the case of means (c) we are talking about a tool for additional processing, which should be applied after application to keratin fibers ready to use bleaching agent. By treating keratin fibers immediately after bleaching, i.e. immediately after the application, exposure and washing off of a bleaching agent ready for use, bleaching can be effectively carried out and, in particular, re-oxidation leading to darkening can be effectively prevented.

As a particularly striking circumstance, it turned out that the bleaching effect when using the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention remains extremely long, and the bleached keratin fibers, which are exposed to air oxygen for hours or days, do not undergo re-oxidation and darkening.

Keratin fibers, keratin-containing fibers or keratin fibers should be understood to mean fur, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair. Although the agents of the present invention are primarily suitable for lightening and dyeing keratin fibers or human hair, in principle, nothing prevents the use in other areas of technology.

The term "colored keratin fibers" means keratin fibers that have been dyed with traditional cosmetic coloring agents known to those skilled in the art. By “dyed keratin fibers” is preferably meant fibers that have been dyed with the prior art oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes. In this regard, one can directly refer to well-known monographs, for example, "Kh. Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika, 2. Auflage, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989", which cite the corresponding knowledge of specialists in this field of technology.

The agents contain the essential ingredients of the present invention, preferably in a cosmetic excipient (agents (a) and (b)) or in an aqueous cosmetic excipient (agent (c)). In this case, we can talk, for example, about acceptable aqueous or hydroalcoholic excipients. For the purpose of reconstituting bleaching, excipients such as, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or also foaming solutions containing surfactants, such as, for example, shampoos, foaming aerosols, foaming compositions or other compositions that are suitable for application on the hair. More preferably, in the case of means for the reductive removal of the color of keratin fibers, we are talking about creams, emulsions or flowing gels.

The agent (a), in particular, can also be packaged in anhydrous form and can, for example, be in solid form, such as a powder or paste. The agent (a) may also contain an excipient containing a solvent or an excipient from fatty components, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, hydrocarbons, silicone oils and / or hydrophobic oils.

Product (a) in container (A)

The multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention (a set of parts) also comprises a first separately packaged container (A) with a cosmetic product (a). The agent (a) is characterized in that it, as the first essential ingredient of the present invention (a1), contains at least one reducing agent from the group consisting of sodium dithionite, zinc dithionite, potassium dithionite, sodium sulfite, sodium hydrogen sulfite, potassium sulfite, hydrosulfite potassium, ammonium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate, ammonium thiosulfate, hydroxymethanesulfinic acid, aminomethanesulfinic acid, cysteine, thiolactic acid, sulfonylacetic acid (thioglycolic acid) and / or ascorbino acid.

In the case of sodium dithionite, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with a gross formula of Na ₂ S ₂ O ₄ and No. CAS 7775-14-6.

In the case of zinc dithionite, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with the gross formula ZnS ₂ O ₄ and No. CAS 7779-86-4.

In the case of potassium dithionite, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with the gross formula K ₂ S ₂ O ₄ and No. CAS 14293-73-3.

In the case of sodium sulfite, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with a gross formula of Na ₂ SO ₃ and No. CAS 7757-83-7.

In the case of sodium hydrosulfite, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with a gross formula of NaHSO ₃ and No. CAS 7631-90-5. Sodium hydrosulfite is preferably used in the form of an aqueous solution.

In the case of potassium sulfite, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with a gross formula of K ₂ SO ₃ and No. CAS 10117-38-1.

In the case of potassium hydrosulfite, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with the gross formula KHSO ₃ and No. CAS 7773-03-7. Potassium hydrosulfite is preferably used in the form of an aqueous solution.

In the case of ammonium sulfite, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with the gross formula (NH ₄ ) ₂ SO ₃ and No. CAS 10196-04-0.

In the case of sodium thiosulfate, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with a gross formula of Na ₂ S ₂ O ₃ and No. CAS 7772-98-7.

In the case of potassium thiosulfate, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with a gross formula of K ₂ S ₂ O ₃ and No. CAS 10294-66-3.

In the case of ammonium thiosulfate, we are talking about an inorganic reducing agent with the gross formula (NH ₄ ) ₂ S ₂ O ₃ and No. CAS 7783-18-8.

In the case of hydroxymethanesulfinic acid, we are talking about an organic reducing agent with the formula HO-CH ₂ -S (O) OH and No. CAS 79-25-4. Hydroxymethanesulfinic acid is alternatively also referred to as formaldehyde sulfoxyl acid. According to the present invention, both hydroxymethanesulfinic acid per se and physiologically acceptable salts of hydroxymethanesulfinic acid, for example sodium salts and / or zinc salts, are used. Therefore, the use of sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate (sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate, hydroxymethanesulfinic acid sodium salt) and / or zinc formaldehyde sulfoxylate (zinc hydroxymethanesulfinate, zinc hydroxymethanesulfinic acid salt) is also in accordance with the present invention.

In the case of aminomethanesulfinic acid, we are talking about an organic reducing agent with the formula H ₂ N-CH ₂ -S (O) OH and No. CAS 118201-33-5. According to the present invention, both aminomethanesulfinic acid per se and physiologically acceptable salts of aminomethanesulfinic acid, for example sodium salts and / or zinc salts, are used. Therefore, the use of sodium aminomethanesulfinate (sodium salt of aminomethanesulfinic acid) and / or zinc aminomethanesulfinate (zinc salt of aminomethanesulfinic acid) is also in accordance with the present invention.

By cysteine (2-amino-3-sulfanylpropionic acid) according to the present invention is meant D-cysteine, L-cysteine and / or a mixture of D- and L-cysteine.

By thiolactic acid (2-sulfanylpropionic acid) is meant D-thiolactic acid, L-thiolactic acid and / or a mixture of D- and L-thiolactic acid. The present invention corresponds to the use of both thiolactic acid itself and the use of thiolactic acid in the form of its physiologically acceptable salt. A preferred thiolactic acid salt is ammonium thiolactate.

In the case of ammonium thiolactate, we are talking about the ammonium salt of thiolactic acid (i.e. the ammonium salt of 2-sulfanylpropionic acid, formula XX):

(Формула XX)

(Formula XX)

The definition of ammonium thiolactate includes both the ammonium salt of D-thiolactic acid and the ammonium salt of L-thiolactic acid, as well as mixtures thereof. By sulfanyl acetic acid (thioglycolic acid, 2-mercaptoacetic acid) is meant an organic reducing agent of the formula HS-CH ₂ -COOH; This compound is assigned CAS No. 68-11-1. Also in the case of thioglycolic acid, the use of both thioglycolic acid itself and the use of a physiologically acceptable salt of thioglycolic acid are in accordance with the present invention. As physiologically acceptable salts of thioglycolic acid, for example, sodium thioglycolate, potassium thioglycolate and / or ammonium thioglycolate can be used. Ammonium thioglycolate is the preferred physiologically acceptable thioglycolic acid salt.

In the case of ammonium thioglycolate, we are talking about the ammonium salt of thioglycolic acid (i.e., the ammonium salt of sulfanyl acetic acid, formula XXX):

(Формула XXX)

(Formula XXX)

Ascorbic acid according to the present invention is preferably understood to be ( R ) -5 - [( S ) -1,2-dihydroxyethyl] -3,4-dihydroxy-5 H -furan-2-one (other alternative names: vitamin C, L- ascorbic acid) with CAS No. 50-81-7.

Sodium dithionite, zinc dithionite, potassium dithionite, sodium sulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium hydrosulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate and / or thiosulfate were used as reducing agents, particularly preferably suitable for reducing bleaching of hair dyed by the oxidative method. ammonium If the previously mentioned preferred reducing agents (a1) are further treated with the agent (c) containing the combination of acids (c1) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (c2) of the present invention, a particularly effective bleaching and especially effective prevention of reoxidation can be observed. in case of bleached locks of hair. Thus, it is possible to prevent the darkening of bleached keratin fibers for a particularly long period of time.

One or more reducing agents from group (a) is preferably used at certain quantitative intervals. To ensure optimal bleaching action, it is preferable that the bleaching agent contains one or more reducing agents (a1) in a total amount of from 25.0 to 100 wt.%, Preferably from 45.0 to 100 wt.%, More preferably from 65.0 up to 100 wt.% and most preferably from 85.0 to 100 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (a).

A particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that:

- the tool (a) in the container (A) contains:

(a1) one or more reducing agents from the group of sodium dithionite, zinc dithionite, potassium dithionite, sodium sulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium hydrosulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate and / or ammonium thiosulfate, in total from 25.0 to 100 wt.%, preferably from 45.0 to 100 wt.%, more preferably from 65.0 to 100 wt.% and most preferably from 85.0 to 100 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (a).

More preferred is also a multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) for restorative bleaching of dyed keratin fibers, characterized in that:

- the tool (a) in the container (A) contains:

(a1) one or more reducing agents from the group consisting of sodium dithionite, zinc dithionite, potassium dithionite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate and / or ammonium thiosulfate, in a total amount of from 25.0 to 100 wt.%, preferably from 45.0 up to 100 wt.%, more preferably from 65.0 to 100 wt.% and most preferably from 85.0 to 100 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (a).

Particularly preferable was also the option when the means of the present invention contain a given combination of reducing agents from group (a1), since some combinations exhibit a particularly strong decolorizing effect. Particularly preferred in this regard is the use of two different reducing agents from group (a1), the decolorizing agent comprising:

(a11) a first reducing agent selected from the group consisting of sodium dithionite, zinc dithionite, potassium dithionite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate and / or ammonium thiosulfate, and further:

(a12) a second reducing agent selected from the group consisting of sodium sulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium hydrosulfite and / or ammonium sulfite.

In other words, a multicomponent packaging unit for restorative bleaching of colored keratin fibers, preferably human hair, is more preferable within this embodiment, wherein:

- the tool (a) in the container (A) contains:

(a11) a first reducing agent selected from the group consisting of sodium dithionite, zinc dithionite, potassium dithionite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate and / or ammonium thiosulfate, and further:

(a12) a second reducing agent selected from the group consisting of sodium sulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium hydrosulfite and / or ammonium sulfite.

The agent (b) in the container (B)

The multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention comprises a second individually packaged container (B) that contains the agent (b). In the case of the agent (b), it is a composition of a cosmetic excipient, which may be aqueous or hydroalcoholic. Most preferably, the agent (b) is aqueous.

A particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (b) in the container (B) contains:

(b1) water.

Shortly before the bleaching process, agents (a) and (b) are mixed to formulate a ready-to-use bleach.

The agent (b) is preferably prepared in the form of a flowable composition to which other surfactants can be added. They are preferably selected from anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.

As anionic surfactants, the agent (b) may contain, for example, fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ethers of carboxylic acids containing from 10 to 20 C atoms in the molecule and up to 16 glycol ether functional groups.

The agent (b) may also contain one or more zwitterionic surfactants, such as, for example, betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates and 2-alkyl -3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines.

Suitable agents (b) of the present invention are also characterized in that the agent (b) further comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant. Preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcinouc acids, 2-alkylaminosaminopropyl acids . Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocosalkylamino propionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine.

Preferred was also the option when the tool (b) contains other surfactants that are nonionic. Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides, as well as products of the addition of alkylene oxides to fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty acid glycerides containing from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Compositions with exceptional properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters with ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. Most preferred is the case where the agent (b) as a nonionic surfactant contains ethoxylated castor oil containing from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty acid or ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil containing from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of oily acids. In this regard, the use of PEG-40 castor oil is particularly preferred.

Nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are used in an amount of from 0.1 to 15.0 wt.%, Preferably from 0.5 to 10.0 wt.% And more preferably from 0.7 to 5.0 wt. .% based on the total amount of funds.

To optimize the bleaching effect, a ready-to-use bleaching agent, i.e. the mixture of agents (a) and (b) preferably has a pH value in the acidic region. Therefore, the agent (b) is preferably adjusted to a pH in the range from 1 to 6, preferably from 1.3 to 4.5, more preferably from 1.6 to 4.0, and most preferably from 2.0 to 3.6. To set the pH in the acidic region, the agent (b) preferably contains one or more organic and / or inorganic acids.

A particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (b) in the container (B) contains:

(b1) water;

(b2) one or more acids from the group of inorganic and / or organic acids.

One or more acids from the group of citric, tartaric, malic, lactic, acetic, sulfuric, hydrochloric, phosphoric, methanesulfonic, benzoic, malonic, oxalic and / or 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acids turned out to be acceptable. . Malonic acid, oxalic acid and / or 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid are most preferably used.

Particularly preferred is also a multi-component packaging unit (set of parts), characterized in that the means (b) in the container (B) contains:

(b1) water;

(b2) one or more acids from the group of citric, tartaric, malic, lactic methanesulfonic, malonic, oxalic and / or 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acids.

Remedy (c) in container (C)

The multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention also comprises a third container (C), which contains separately packaged product (c). In the case of the agent (c), this refers to an agent for further processing, which, after application, exposure and preferably after washing off the bleaching agent ready for use (i.e., a mixture of agents (a) and (b)), should be applied to keratin fibers.

By using the aftertreatment agent (c), reoxidation and consequently darkening is prevented, which otherwise usually always occurs when keratin fibers treated with the reducing agent, bleached and freed by washing off from the reducing agent, are exposed to atmospheric oxygen. To prevent darkening, in an optimal manner, the additional treatment agent is applied preferably immediately after washing off the bleaching agent (i.e., a mixture of agents (a) and (b)).

An essential circumstance of the present invention with respect to the agent (c) is that it contains at least one acid from the group of inorganic and / or organic acids (c1) and at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant (c2 )

The ability to suppress reoxidation substantially depends on the choice of acid (c1) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c2). Both components (c1) and (c2) act together to prevent browning, with special acids and selected surfactants being especially effective.

In this regard, acceptable acids are selected from the group of citric, tartaric, malic, lactic, acetic, hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic, methanesulfonic, benzoic, hydrochloric, sulfuric, phosphoric, malonic and / or oxalic acids.

In this case, one or more acids is used both to set the pH value optimal for the agent for additional processing (c), and to suppress darkening. Moreover, the task of certain quantitative intervals proved to be a particularly good factor for solving the problem posed by the present invention.

Preferably, one or more acids are used in a total amount of from 2.0 to 20.0 wt.%, Preferably from 3.0 to 18.0 wt.%, More preferably from 3.5 to 16.0 wt.% And most preferably from 4.0 to 14.0 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (c).

A preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c1) one or more acids from the group of citric, tartaric, malic, lactic, acetic, hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic, methanesulfonic, benzoic, hydrochloric, sulfuric, phosphoric, malonic and / or oxalic acids, in total from 2.0 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 3.0 to 18.0 wt.%, more preferably from 3.5 to 16.0 wt.% and most preferably from 4.0 to 14.0 wt. .% calculated on the total weight of the funds (c).

Acids selected from the group consisting of methanesulfonic acid, malonic acid and / or oxalic acid have proven to be most effective in preventing re-oxidation. Therefore, methanesulfonic, malonic and oxalic acids are most preferred.

A particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c1) one or more acids from the group consisting of methanesulfonic, malonic and / or oxalic acids, in a total amount of from 2.0 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 3.0 to 18.0 wt.%, more preferably from 3.5 to 16.0 wt.% and most preferably from 4.0 to 14.0 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (c).

In the course of the work leading up to the present invention, it was unexpectedly found that the result of bleaching and the duration of the effect can be improved even more when the bleaching agent (c) contains two different acids.

A particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c1) oxalic acid and / or malonic acid, as well as other acids from the group of citric, tartaric, malic, lactic, acetic, hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic, methanesulfonic, benzoic, hydrochloric, sulfuric and phosphoric acids, are used as the acid .

The best bleaching results were obtained with oxalic acid / methanesulfonic acid and malonic acid / methanesulfonic acid mixtures.

The most preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c1) oxalic and / or malonic acid as the acid, and methanesulfonic acid as other acids.

As a second component of the present invention, the agent (c) contains in the container (C) one or more zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants (c2).

Surfactants are understood to mean amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds containing at least one hydrophobic radical and at least one hydrophilic part of the molecule. In the case of the hydrophobic part of the molecule, it is mainly a hydrocarbon chain containing from about 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

In the case of zwitterionic surfactants, the hydrophilic part of the molecule contains a zwitterionic structural unit, i.e. a structural unit that contains both a positively charged cationic and a negatively charged anionic part of the molecule. According to the present invention, the zwitterionic surfactants (c2) are characterized in that they possess a positively charged cationic moiety in the form of a quaternary ammonium group, and their anionic moiety is in the form of a —COO ^- or —SO ₃ ^- moiety.

The ammonium group is quaternary when there is a group of the type (R ₁ R ₂ R ₃ R ₄ N) ⁺ , i.e. when all four H atoms of the NH ₄ ⁺ ion, from which the Quaternary ammonium group originates, are replaced by R.

The grouping of -SO ₃ ^- zwitterionic surfactant can be directly linked to a carbon atom. In this case, with respect to the anionic part of the zwitterionic compound, we are talking about a deprotonated sulfonic acid group of the formula R ₅ R ₆ R ₇ C-SO ₃ ^- , and the radicals R ₅ , R ₆ , R ₇ represent the rest of the zwitterionic surfactant according to the present invention.

However, the invention also corresponds to an embodiment where the —SO ₃ ^- moiety ^is linked to a carbon atom through an oxygen atom, in which case the anionic part of the zwitterionic surfactant is a deprotonated sulfuric acid ester of the formula R ₅ R ₆ R ₇ CO-SO ₃ ^- , and the radicals R ₅ , R ₆ , R ₇ also represent the rest of the zwitterionic surfactant of the present invention.

According to the present invention, it is preferable that the —SO ₃ ^- moiety ^is bonded directly to a carbon atom, i.e. exists in the form of a deprotonated sulfonic acid group.

By amphoteric surfactants are meant those surfactants which, in addition to the C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salt. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcinopropyls, 2-alkylaminos-aminopropyls acids containing from about 10 to 30 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocosalkylamino propionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine.

Most preferably, the agent (c) contains one or more zwitterionic surfactants (c2). On this basis, a multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) for restorative bleaching of dyed keratin fibers, which are individually packaged, is also particularly preferably acceptable:

(I) a container (A) containing a cosmetic product (a);

(Ii) a container (B) containing a cosmetic (b);

(Iii) a container (C) containing an aqueous cosmetic (c);

moreover:

- the tool (a) in the container (A) contains:

(a1) one or more reducing agents from the group of sodium dithionite, zinc dithionite, potassium dithionite, sodium sulfite, sodium hydrogen sulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium hydrogen sulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate, ammonium thiosulfate, hydroxymethanesulfinic acid, aminomethanesulfinic acid , cysteine, thiolactic acid, sulfanilacetic acid (thioglycolic acid) and / or ascorbic acid;

- the tool (b) in the container (B) contains:

(b1) water;

(b2) one or more acids from the group of inorganic and / or organic acids;

- the tool (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c1) one or more acids from the group of inorganic and / or organic acids;

(c2) one or more zwitterionic surfactants.

It was possible to prevent the darkening of bleached keratin fibers for a particularly long period of time when one or more zwitterionic surfactants of the formulas (I) to (IV) were used as the zwitterionic surfactant of the present invention:

Where:

each of the radicals R1 independently of one another is linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ -alkyl, linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ -alkenyl or linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ -hydroxyalkyl;

R2, R3 are independently C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl;

each of the indices n independently from each other means an integer from 1 to 6;

each of the indices m independently from each other means an integer from 0 to 6;

each of the indices o independently of each other means an integer from 0 to 6;

each of the indices p independently from each other means an integer from 0 to 6;

provided that the sum of m, o and p is at least 1.

A preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c2) one or more zwitterionic surfactants selected from the group of compounds of formulas (I) to (IV):

Where:

each of the radicals R1 independently of one another is linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ -alkyl, linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ -alkenyl or linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ -hydroxyalkyl;

R2, R3 are independently C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl;

each of the indices n independently from each other means an integer from 1 to 6;

each of the indices m independently from each other means an integer from 0 to 6;

each of the indices o independently of each other means an integer from 0 to 6;

each of the indices p independently from each other means an integer from 0 to 6;

provided that the sum of m, o and p is at least 1.

In the group of zwitterionic surfactants of the formulas (I) to (IV), surfactants of the formula (I) and / or (II) are most preferred.

Especially preferred is the use of zwitterionic surfactants of the formula (I) in which R1 is linear C ₁₁ -alkyl, linear C ₁₃ -alkyl, linear C ₁₅ -alkyl, linear C ₁₇ -alkyl or linear C ₁₉ -alkyl , linear monounsaturated C ₁₁ alkenyl, linear monounsaturated C ₁₃ alkenyl, linear monounsaturated C ₁₅ alkyl, linear monounsaturated C ₁₇ alkenyl or linear monounsaturated C ₁₉ alkenyl.

Especially preferred is when n is 3.

R2 and R3, independently of one another, are preferably C ₁ -C ₆ alkyls and more preferably R2 and R3 are methyl groups.

m is more preferably 1 or 2.

o more preferably equal to 1.

p is more preferably 1 or 2.

A particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c2) one or more zwitterionic surfactants of the formula (I):

Where:

R1 represents a linear or branched C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or a linear or branched mono- or polyunsaturated C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkenyl;

R 2, R 3 are independently C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl;

n is an integer from 1 to 6 and is preferably 3;

m is an integer from 1 to 6;

o means an integer from 1 to 6;

p is an integer from 1 to 6.

Zwitterionic surfactants of the most preferred type of formula (I) are also known as amidopropylhydroxysultaines.

Laurylamidopropylhydroxysultaine is a zwitterionic surfactant of formula (I) in which R1 is C ₁₁ -alkyl, R2 is methyl, R3 is methyl, n is 3, m is 1, o is 1 and p is 1 .

Cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) in which R1 is C ₁₁ to C ₁₇ alkyl, R2 is methyl, R3 is methyl, n is 3, m is 1, o is 1, and p is 1.

Oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine is a zwitterionic surfactant of formula (I) in which R1 is a monounsaturated C ₁₇ alkenyl (a double bond is between the 8th and 9th atoms of the radical R1), R2 is methyl, R3 is methyl methyl, n is 3, m is 1, o is 1, and p is 1.

Cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, for example, commercially available from Rhodia under the trade name Mirataine CBS, is most preferably used.

Another particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c2) one or more zwitterionic surfactants of the formula (II):

Where:

R1 is a linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ alkyl or a linear or branched mono- or polyunsaturated C ₉ -C ₂₉ alkenyl;

R 2, R 3 are independently C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl;

n is an integer from 1 to 6 and is preferably 3;

m is an integer from 1 to 6;

o is 0;

p is 0.

An example of a particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactant of formula (II) is cocamidopropyl betaine. Cocamidopropylbetaine is a mixture of compounds of formula (II) in which R1 is alkyl from C ₁₁ to C ₁₇ , R2 is methyl, R3 is methyl, n is 3, m is 1, o is 0, and p is 0.

Another example of a particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactant of formula (II) is lauramidopropyl betaine, wherein R1 is C ₁₁ -alkyl, R2 is methyl, R3 is methyl, n is 3, m is 1, o is 0 and p is 0.

The use of the preferred and more preferred surfactants (c2) of the present invention together with the acids of the group (c1) prevents darkening of the bleached strands and thus maintains the long-lasting bleaching effect. Moreover, the use of surfactants in certain quantitative ranges is a particular advantage. Particularly preferred is the case where the agent (c) contains zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants (c2) in a total amount of from 3.0 to 50.0 mass%, preferably from 5.0 to 40.0 mass %, more preferably from 7.0 to 35.0% by weight, and most preferably from 7.5 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent (c).

A particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c2) one or more zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants in a total amount of from 3.0 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably from 5.0 to 40.0 wt.%, more preferably from 7, 0 to 35.0 wt.% And most preferably from 7.5 to 25 wt.% Based on the total weight of the agent (c).

Another particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c2) one or more zwitterionic surfactants in a total amount of from 3.0 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably from 5.0 to 40.0 wt.%, more preferably from 7.0 to 35, 0 wt.% And most preferably from 7.5 to 25 wt.% Based on the total weight of the agent (c).

Another particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that the agent (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c2) one or more amphoteric surfactants in a total amount of from 3.0 to 50.0 mass%, preferably from 5.0 to 40.0 mass%, more preferably from 7.0 to 35.0 mass % and most preferably from 7.5 to 25 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (c).

As described previously, a particular advantage is shown when zwitterionic surfactants are used as surfactants (c2). Thus, it is particularly preferred that the agent (c) contains zwitterionic surfactants (c2) as surfactants (c2) in a total amount of from 3.0 to 50.0 wt.%, Preferably from 5.0 to 40.0 wt.%, more preferably from 7.0 to 35.0 wt.% and most preferably from 7.5 to 25 wt.%, based on the total weight of the agent (c).

On this basis, a multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) for restorative bleaching of dyed keratin fibers, which are individually packaged, is also particularly preferably acceptable:

(I) a container (A) containing a cosmetic product (a);

(Ii) a container (B) containing a cosmetic (b);

(Iii) a container (C) containing an aqueous cosmetic (c);

moreover:

- the tool (a) in the container (A) contains:

(a1) one or more reducing agents from the group of sodium dithionite, zinc dithionite, potassium dithionite, sodium sulfite, sodium hydrogen sulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium hydrogen sulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate, ammonium thiosulfate, hydroxymethanesulfinic acid, aminomethanesulfinic acid , cysteine, thiolactic acid, sulfanilacetic acid (thioglycolic acid) and / or ascorbic acid in a total amount of from 0.5 to 20.5 wt.%, preferably from 3.5 to 15.5 wt.%, more preferably from 6, 0 to 13.5 ma c%, and most preferably from 7.5 to 11.5 wt% based on the total weight of (a)..;

- the tool (b) in the container (B) contains:

(b1) water;

(b2) one or more acids from the group of citric, tartaric, malic, lactic methanesulfonic, malonic, oxalic and / or 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acids;

- the tool (c) in the container (C) contains:

(c1) one or more acids from the group of citric, tartaric, malic, lactic, acetic, hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic, methanesulfonic, benzoic, hydrochloric, sulfuric, phosphoric, malonic and / or oxalic acids, in total from 2.0 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 3.0 to 18.0 wt.%, more preferably from 4.0 to 16.0 wt.% and most preferably from 4.5 to 14.0 wt. .% calculated on the total weight of the funds (c);

(c2) one or more zwitterionic surfactants in a total amount of from 3.0 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably from 5.0 to 40.0 wt.%, more preferably from 7.0 to 35, 0 wt.% And most preferably from 7.5 to 25 wt.% Based on the total weight of the agent (c).

One or more zwitterionic surfactants (c2) are used in conjunction with acids (c1) in an aqueous cosmetic excipient and thus form the agent of the present invention for further processing (c). In this agent (c), by adding acids and bases, various pH values can be set. The -COO ^- , -SO ₃ ^- groups of surfactants (c2) in the aqueous cosmetic excipient can also be partially protonated by changing the pH value by the equilibrium reaction. The present invention also encompasses these zwitterionic surfactant forms of protonated by equilibrium reaction. All of these quantitative data relate to the amount of zwitterionic surfactants, which in their zwitterionic form are added to the aqueous excipient.

One or more amphoteric surfactants (c2) are also used in conjunction with acids (c1) in an aqueous cosmetic excipient, and in this embodiment form the agent (c) of the present invention for further processing. In this agent (c), by adding acids and bases, various pH values can be set. The -COOH, -SO ₃ H groups of surfactants (c2) in an aqueous cosmetic excipient can also be partially deprotonated when the pH value changes according to the equilibrium reaction. In this case, the protonated groups contained in the amphoteric surfactant (such as, for example, primary, secondary or tertiary amino groups), depending on the pH of the agent (c), can also be fully or partially in protonated form. All of these equilibrium reactions that can occur in amphoteric surfactants when the pH is set are also encompassed by the present invention. All of these quantitative data refer to the number of amphoteric surfactants, which in their amphoteric form (protonated acid group, non-protonated amino group) are added to the aqueous excipient.

Polyols

It has been found that the use of polyols also favors a bleaching effect. On this basis, it is preferable that the bleaching agent of the present invention and / or the agent of the present invention for further processing additionally contains one or more polyols. By polyol is meant a compound containing at least two OH groups of an aliphatic type (i.e., a non-phenolic type).

Examples of polyols acceptable in accordance with the present invention are, in particular, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentantiol, 1,3-pentantiol, 1,4-pentantiol, 1,5-pentantiol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-hexanediol, 1,4-hexanethiol, 1,5-hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol. Polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol are also suitable.

Therefore, in another preferred embodiment, the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention (a set of parts) is characterized in that:

- the tool (b) in the container (B) additionally contains one or more polyols from the group consisting of ethylene glycol (1,2-ethanediol), 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-pentantiol, 1,3-pentantiol, 1,4-pentantiol, 1,5-pentantiol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-hexanediol, 1,4- hexantiol, 1,5-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol.

Therefore, in another preferred embodiment, the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention (a set of parts) is characterized in that:

- the tool (c) in the container (C) additionally contains one or more polyols from the group consisting of ethylene glycol (1,2-ethanediol), 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-pentantiol, 1,3-pentantiol, 1,4-pentantiol, 1,5-pentantiol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-hexanediol, 1,4- hexantiol, 1,5-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol.

The polyols in the agents of the present invention (agent (b) and / or agent (c)) are preferably contained in a total amount of from 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, Preferably from 1.0 to 11.5 wt.%, More preferably from 1.5 to 7.5 wt.% and most preferably from 2.0 to 4.5 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent in which one or more polyols were used.

Therefore, in another preferred embodiment, the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention (a set of parts) is characterized in that:

- the tool (b) in the container (B) additionally contains one or more polyols from the group consisting of ethylene glycol (1,2-ethanediol), 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-pentantiol, 1,3-pentantiol, 1,4-pentantiol, 1,5-pentantiol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-hexanediol, 1,4- hexantiol, 1,5-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, in a total amount of from 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, preferably from 1.0 to 11.5 wt.%, more preferably from 1.5 to 7.5 wt.% and most preferably from 2.0 to 4.5 wt.% based on about total weight of the product (a).

Therefore, in another preferred embodiment, the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention (a set of parts) is characterized in that:

- the tool (c) in the container (C) additionally contains one or more polyols from the group consisting of ethylene glycol (1,2-ethanediol), 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-pentantiol, 1,3-pentantiol, 1,4-pentantiol, 1,5-pentantiol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-hexanediol, 1,4- hexantiol, 1,5-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, in a total amount of from 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, preferably from 1.0 to 11.5 wt.%, more preferably from 1.5 to 7.5 wt.% and most preferably from 2.0 to 4.5 wt.% based on about total weight of the product (c).

Other surfactants

The agent (c) of the present invention for further processing, along with amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (b) which are essential in the present invention, may also contain other surfactants, such as, for example, nonionic and / or cationic surfactants. However, it is preferable that the agent (c) contains anionic surfactants only in small quantities. In this regard, it is also preferable that the means (a) and (b) also contain anionic surfactants only in small quantities. By "small amount" is meant an amount of less than 1 wt.% And preferably not more than 0.9 wt.%, And the data in mass percent are based on the total weight of the corresponding funds (a), (b) and (c).

Therefore, in another preferred embodiment, the multicomponent packaging unit is characterized in that:

- the total amount of all anionic surfactants contained in the agent (a) is not more than 0.9 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.7 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.5 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.3 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (a);

- the total amount of all anionic surfactants contained in the tool (b) is not more than 0.9 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.7 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.5 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.3 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (b);

- the total amount of all anionic surfactants contained in the tool (c) is not more than 0.9 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.7 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.5 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.3 wt.% based on the total weight of the product (c).

By anionic surfactant in the sense of the present invention is meant surfactants exclusively with a negative charge of the anionic type.

In this regard, it is preferable that the total amount of all anionic surfactants contained in the agents (a), (b) and (c) from the group consisting of:

- linear fatty acids containing from 10 to 22 C atoms (soap);

- carboxylic ethers of the formula RO- (CH ₂ —CH ₂ O) _x —CH ₂ —COOH, where R is a linear alkyl containing from 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or has a value from 1 to 16;

- acyl sarcosides containing from 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group;

- acyl taurides containing from 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group;

- acylsetionates containing from 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group;

- alkyl mono- and diesters of sulfosuccinic acid containing from 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group, and polyethoxyalkyl monoesters of sulfosuccinic acid containing from 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and from 1 to 6 hydroxyethyl groups;

- linear alkanesulfonates containing from 12 to 18 C atoms;

- linear alpha olefin sulfonates containing from 12 to 18 C atoms;

- methyl esters of fatty alpha sulfonic acids containing from 12 to 18 C atoms;

- alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ethersulfates of the formula RO- (CH ₂ —CH ₂ O) _x —SO ₃ H, where R is preferably linear alkyl containing from 10 to 18 C atoms and x = 0 or a value from 1 to 12;

is not more than 0.9 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.7 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.5 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.3 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent.

The agents (a), (b) and / or (c) may also contain one or more nonionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants are understood to mean amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds containing at least one hydrophobic radical and at least one hydrophilic part of the molecule. In the case of the hydrophobic part of the molecule, it is mainly a hydrocarbon chain containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. As the hydrophilic group, nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a functional group of a polyalkylene glycol ether or a combination of a polyol group and a functional group of a polyglycol ether. Such compounds are, for example, the addition products of ethylene oxide units in an amount of from 2 to 30 mol and / or propylene oxide units in an amount of from 0 to 5 mol to linear fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 22 C atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 up to 22 C atoms, and to alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, mono- and diesters of C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with products of addition of ethylene oxide units to glycerin in an amount of 1 to 30 mol, C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, as well as addition products of ethylene oxide units in an amount of 5 to 60 mol to castor oil and cured castor oil.

Additional suitable nonionic surfactants for use can be used in the agents of the present invention (a), (b) or (c) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 15.0 wt.%, Preferably from 2.5 to 13 5 wt.%, More preferably from 3.5 to 11.5 wt.% And most preferably from 4.5 to 9.5 wt.% Based on the total weight of the corresponding agent.

According to the present invention, quaternized nitrogen esters and amido amines are used as cationic surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium compounds. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, preferably chlorides and bromides, such as chlorides, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tritsetilmetilammoniya chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the designation INCI as Quaternion-27 and Quaternion-83. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably contain from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

In the case of ester compounds of quaternized nitrogen, we are talking about known substances that as a structural element contain at least one ester functional group, and at least one quaternary ammonium group. Preferred esters of quaternized nitrogen are quaternized salts of fatty acid esters with triethanolamine, quaternized salts of fatty acid esters with diethanol alkyl amines and quaternized salts of fatty acid esters with 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkyl amines. Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and mixtures of fatty acids with dialkylamino amines. According to the present invention, a particularly suitable compound from this group of substances is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, commercially sold under the name "Tegoamid ^® S 18". Other cationic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates.

Additional suitable cationic surfactants may be used in the agents of the present invention (a), (b) or (c) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 15.0 wt.%, Preferably from 2.5 to 13 5 wt.%, More preferably from 3.5 to 11.5 wt.% And most preferably from 4.5 to 9.5 wt.% Based on the total weight of the corresponding agent.

PH value

As previously described, the bleaching effect of a bleaching agent prepared for use depends on a pH value that is optimal in the acidic range of pH values. Therefore, a bleaching agent prepared for use, i.e. the mixture of agents (a) and (b) preferably has a pH value in the acidic region.

For reasons of stability, an embodiment is preferred when the agent (a) is packaged in anhydrous form.

Therefore, in means (b), the pH is preferably set in the range from 1 to 6, preferably from 1.3 to 4.5, more preferably from 1.6 to 4.0, and most preferably from 2.0 to 3.6.

It turned out that the advantage also manifests itself when the bleaching agent (c) also has an acid reaction, since in this case re-oxidation and, accordingly, darkening are particularly well prevented.

For these reasons, a particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that:

- the agent (a) in the container (A) is an anhydrous agent;

- the agent (b) in the container (B) is an aqueous agent in which the pH is in the range from 1 to 6, preferably from 1.3 to 4.5, more preferably from 1.6 to 4.0, and most preferably from 2.0 to 3.6 (determined with a Schott glass type electrode N61 at 22 ° C);

and

- the pH of the agent (c) in the container (C) is in the range from 0.5 to 4.0, preferably from 0.7 to 3.5, more preferably from 0.9 to 3.0, and most preferably from 1, 1 to 2.5 (determined with Schott glass-type electrode N61 at 22 ° C).

The pH values were determined with a Schott type N61 glass electrode at 22 ° C.

In this regard, the term “anhydrous” means that the water content in the agent (a) is not more than 10.0 wt.%, Preferably not more than 5.0 wt.%, More preferably not more than 2.5 wt.%, In more preferably not more than 1.0 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.5 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (a).

In other words, a particularly preferred multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) is also characterized in that:

- the water content in the agent (a) in the container (A) is not more than 10.0 wt.%, preferably not more than 5.0 wt.%, more preferably not more than 2.5 wt.%, even more preferably not more than 1.0 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.5 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (a);

- the agent (b) in the container (B) is an aqueous agent in which the pH is in the range from 1 to 6, preferably from 1.3 to 4.5, more preferably from 1.6 to 4.0, and most preferably from 2.0 to 3.6 (determined with a Schott glass type electrode N61 at 22 ° C);

and

- the pH of the agent (c) in the container (C) is in the range from 0.5 to 4.0, preferably from 0.7 to 3.5, more preferably from 0.9 to 3.0, and most preferably from 1, 1 to 2.5 (determined with Schott glass-type electrode N61 at 22 ° C).

Although the pH of the agents (b) and (c) is preferably in the acidic region, nevertheless, in order to accurately set the pH, the agents may contain small amounts of alkalizing agents. Alkalizing agents suitable for use for this purpose of the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids, as well as inorganic alkalizing agents such as hydroxides, metasilicates, phosphates and hydrophosphates of alkali and alkaline earth metals. Suitable inorganic alkalizing agents are sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate. Organic alkalizing agents suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol and triethanolamine. Essential amino acids suitable for use as an alkalizing agent of the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.

Discoloration of dyed keratin fibers

In the case of the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention, we are talking about a system comprising means (a), (b) and (c) and used to bleach previously dyed keratin fibers, preferably human hair. In the case of dyed keratin fibers, we are usually talking about fibers that were previously dyed with traditional oxidizing and / or direct dyes, well-known specialists in this field of technology.

Bleaching agents are acceptable for eliminating the color that has been carried out on keratin fibers with oxidative dyes based on developing and binding components. When the following compounds were used as a developer, the color obtained by using a bleaching agent could be eliminated qualitatively, efficiently, and almost without subsequent darkening: p-phenylenediamine, p-toluene diamine, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4- idroksi-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and / or 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole.

When the following compounds were used as a binding agent, the color obtained with this could be eliminated with very good results: m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives. As binding agents, 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, are preferably acceptable. 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazolone-5,2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis- (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6 -methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol and 2-methyl-4-chloro-5-aminophenol, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene , 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-a ino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-hlorrezortsin, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methyl resorcinol, 2,5-dimetilrezortsin and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

The substrate to be bleached can also be stained with direct dyes. Furthermore, nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols are preferably suitable as direct dyes. The multicomponent packaging unit (set of parts) of the present invention allows, for example, to bleach keratin fibers, for dyeing which were used compounds known as dyes under international designations or trade names: HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52, and also 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro -2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3 , 4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picraminic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino 1-hydro si-4-nitrobenzene.

Substrates to be discolored can also be stained with natural dyes found in nature and contained, for example, in red henna, neutral henna, black henna, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, blue sandalwood, madder root , acacia catechu, cedar and root alcanna.

The bleaching agents of the present invention are intended to remove this staining and therefore themselves preferably do not contain dyes, i.e. precursors of oxidative dyes such as developing agents and type of binding agents, as well as direct dyes.

Therefore, in another preferred embodiment, the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention (a set of parts) is characterized in that:

- the total amount of all dyes and precursors of oxidative dyes contained in the tool (a) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.1 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.05 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.01 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (a);

- the total amount of all dyes and precursors of oxidative dyes contained in the tool (b) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.1 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.05 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.01 mass%, based on the total weight of the agent (b);

- the total amount of all dyes and precursors of oxidative dyes contained in the tool (c) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.1 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.05 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.01 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (c);

Oxidizing agents

The multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention is used for restorative bleaching of dyed keratin fibers. In this case, the means (a) and (b) together form a ready-to-use bleaching agent that contains a reducing agent. Therefore, for reasons of incompatibility and to prevent uncontrolled exothermic reactions, agents (a) and (b) preferably do not contain an oxidizing agent.

Sequential treatment of keratin fibers with reducing agents and oxidizing agents can lead to very severe hair damage. Therefore, so that possible damage to keratin fibers occurs as little as possible, it is preferable that the tool (c) for further processing does not contain an oxidizing agent.

Oxidizing agents are also preferably understood as oxidizing agents suitable for use in oxidative bleaching, such as, for example, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates (potassium persulfate (alternatively potassium peroxodisulfate), sodium persulfate (sodium peroxodisulfate) and ammonium persulfate (alternatively ammonium peroxodisulfate). Moreover, the agents (a), (b) and (c) preferably do not contain these oxidizing agents.

Therefore, in another preferred embodiment, the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention (a set of parts) is characterized in that:

- the total amount of all oxidizing agents from the group of peroxides and persulfates contained in the agent (a) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.1 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.05 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.01 mass%, based on the total weight of the agent (a);

- the total amount of all oxidizing agents from the group of peroxides and persulfates contained in the tool (b) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.1 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.05 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.01 mass%, based on the total weight of the agent (b);

- the total amount of all oxidizing agents from the group of peroxides and persulfates contained in the tool (c) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, preferably not more than 0.1 wt.%, more preferably not more than 0.05 wt.% and most preferably not more than 0.01 mass%, based on the total weight of the agent (c).

The ratio of funds (a) and (b) in the mixture

As previously described, a ready-to-use bleaching agent is prepared by mixing means (a) and (b). In this case, the means (a) and (b) can in principle be mixed with different ratios in the mixture, so that, for example, (a) / (b) is from 20: 1 to 1:20.

To ensure comfortable mixing, it may be preferable that both agents (a) and (b) are used in approximately equal amounts. In particular, when the acid is used in the agent (b) in a more concentrated form, it may also be preferable that the agent (a) is used in excess. However, if the agent (a) is in anhydrous form, then, on the other hand, it may also be preferable that the agent (b) is used in excess.

The tool (a) contains one or more reducing agents (a1), preferably in a total amount of from 25.0 to 100 wt.%, Preferably from 45.0 to 100 wt.%, More preferably from 65.0 to 100 wt.% And most preferably from 85.0 to 100 wt.% based on the total weight of the agent (a). Therefore, in the agent (a), one or more reducing agents are contained in a relatively high concentration.

It is then that when the reducing agent is used in the agent (a) in these concentration ranges, the use of an excess of agent (b) is desirable.

Therefore, in another preferred embodiment, the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention is characterized in that the amounts of the agent (a) in the container (A) and the agent (b) in the container (B) are selected so that upon receipt of the working mixture, i.e. when mixing means (a) and (b), the ratio (a) / (b) in the mixture is in the range from 1: 5 to 1:30.

In another preferred embodiment, the multicomponent packaging unit of the present invention is characterized in that the amounts of the agent (a) in the container (A) and the agent (b) in the container (B) are selected so that upon receipt of the working mixture, i.e. when mixing means (a) and (b), the ratio (a) / (b) in the mixture is in the range from 1: 8 to 1:20, and more preferably from 1:10 to 1:15.

To obtain the mixture, the agent (a) from the container (A) can, for example, be completely transferred to the container (B), which already contains the agent (b). In this case, the capacity of the container (B) is chosen so that the container (B) can accommodate the total amount of means (a) and (b) and also allows both means (a) and (b) to be mixed, for example, by shaking or stirring.

Similarly, the preparation of the mixture can also be accomplished by completely moving the agent (b) from the container (B) to the container (A) that already contains the agent (a). In this case, the capacity of the container (A) should be chosen so that the container (A) can hold the total amount of means (a) and (b) and also allows you to mix both means (a) and (b), for example, by shaking or stirring.

Another possibility of obtaining a working mixture is the complete transfer of both means (a) and (b) from containers (A) and (B) into a third vessel, which allows you to mix both means, for example, by shaking or stirring.

Example. A multi-component packaging unit of the present invention comprises:

- 10 g of sodium dithionite, agent (a) in the container (A) (i.e., the total content of one or more reducing agents (a1) in agent (a) is 100 wt.% (Minus a small amount of impurities in sodium dithionite)) ;

- 100 g of the product (b) in the container (B).

To obtain a working mixture, the agent (a) from the container (A) is completely transferred to the container (B). Then the means (a) and (b) are jointly shaken or stirred. The ratio of funds (a) / (b) in the mixture is (10 g / 100 g) = 1: 10.

Other ingredients

The agents of the present invention (a), (b) and / or (c) may also contain other active substances, auxiliary agents and additives, such as, for example, nonionic polymers, such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinylacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone , vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes; additional organosilicon compounds, such as volatile or non-volatile linear, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polyalkylsiloxanes (such as dimethicones or cyclomethicones), polyarylsiloxanes and / or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, preferably polysiloxanes with organic functional groups such as substituted or unsubstituted amines , carboxy, alkoxy and / or hydroxy groups (dimethicone copolyols), linear polysiloxane (A) -polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers filled with silicon anicheskie polymers; cationic polymers, such as quaternized cellulose ethers, quaternary polysiloxanes, dimethyl diallylammonium chloride polymers, dimethyl diallylammonium acrylamide-chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate quaternized imimer-vinylidene-vinylacetate-vinylidene-vinylacetate-vinylacetate-vinylacetate zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers; anionic polymers, such as, for example, polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids; structuring agents, such as glucose, maleic and lactic acids, hair conditioning compounds, such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; active substances that improve the structure of fibers, preferably mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar and lactose; dyes for coloring agents; anti-dandruff actives such as pyroctone olamine, zinc omadin and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates on animal and / or vegetable basis, as well as in the form of products of their condensation with fatty acids or, if necessary, anionic or cationic modified derivatives; vegetable oils; light stabilizers and UV blockers; active substances, such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as bisabolol; polyphenols, preferably hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and precursors of vitamins; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, mountain wax and paraffins; swelling and permeability agents such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas, as well as monosubstituted, disubstituted and trisubstituted phosphates; silencers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; brighteners such as ethylene glycol monostearate and ethylene glycol distearate, as well as PEG-3 distearate; pigments and propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air. In this regard, one can directly refer to well-known monographs, for example, "Kh. Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika, 2. Auflage, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989", which cite the corresponding knowledge of specialists in this field of technology.

Ways

The previously described multicomponent packaging units (sets of parts) of the present invention can be used in a recovery bleaching process.

Therefore, another object of the present invention is a method for reducing bleaching of dyed keratin fibers, which includes the following stages in the following sequence:

(I) preparing a ready-to-use bleaching agent by mixing the agent (a) as defined in the description of the first object of the present invention with the agent (b) as defined in the description of the first object of the present invention;

(Ii) applying a ready-to-use bleaching agent to keratin fibers;

(III) exposure to a bleaching agent for a period of time from 5 to 60 minutes, preferably from 10 to 55 minutes, more preferably from 20 to 50 minutes, and most preferably from 30 to 45 minutes;

(Iv) washing off the bleaching agent with keratin fibers;

(V) applying a cosmetic water product (c), as defined in the description of the first object of the present invention, to keratin fibers;

(VI) exposure to the agent (c) for a period of time from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 20 minutes, more preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and most preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes;

(Vii) washing off the agent (c) with keratin fibers.

Stage (I), (II), (III) and (IV) of the method is a process of bleaching keratin fibers and, therefore, are carried out one after another in a direct time sequence. For the sequence of stages (IV) and (V) there is essentially no time limit. So, for example, stage (V) can be carried out in hours, days, or, for example, even after a period of up to two weeks after the completion of stage (IV). Moreover, the method should prevent re-darkening or re-oxidation, which may occur due to the action of atmospheric oxygen on bleached keratin fibers. In order to effectively prevent this re-oxidation, it is necessary to carry out additional processing before atmospheric oxygen after an excessively long period of time can affect the reduced keratin fibers. For this reason, additional processing, if possible, should be carried out immediately after bleaching (i.e., in time immediately after completion of stage (IV)). For this reason, it is preferable that the time interval between the completion of step (IV) and the start of step (V) is not more than 12 hours, preferably not more than 6 hours, more preferably not more than 1 hour and particularly preferably not more than 30 minutes. Thus, the preferred method of the present invention is characterized in that the time interval between steps (IV) and (V) is not more than 12 hours, preferably not more than 6 hours, more preferably not more than 1 hour and particularly preferably not more than 30 minutes.

The agent for further processing can also be reapplied several times, for example, in the case where the agent (c) is a shampoo, which is usually used after bleaching. If additional processing, i.e. stages (V) - (VII), carried out with repetition, it becomes possible to suppress re-oxidation for a particularly long period of time.

Therefore, a particularly preferred method of the present invention is characterized in that upon completion of step (VII), the following steps are carried out in the following sequence:

(VIII) applying a cosmetic aqueous agent (c) to keratin fibers, wherein agent (c) is an agent as defined in the description of the first object of the present invention;

(IX) exposure to the agent (c) for a period of time from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 20 minutes, more preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and most preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes;

(X) flushing the agent (c) with keratin fibers.

Stage (VIII) - (X) is a repetition of the additional processing tool (c); this additional processing is carried out at the end of stage (VII). For the sequence of stages (VII) and (VIII), there is essentially no time limit. However, for reasons of comfort for the user, it is preferable that the additional treatment with means (c) is carried out during normal hair washing carried out by the user. If the user, for example, washes his hair, as a rule, every one to two days, then for this hair wash he must use the tool (c) for additional processing. Therefore, it is preferable that the time interval between stages (VII) and (VIII) is from 12 to 48 hours and preferably from 24 to 36 hours.

The method of the present invention is particularly effective in the case of keratin fibers that have been dyed with some oxidative dye precursors.

First of all, good results were achieved when the bleaching method was applied on keratin fibers that were dyed with one or more oxidative dye precursors from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluylene diamine, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl ) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and / or 2- (methoxymethyl) -p-phenylenediamine. Therefore, the preferred method of the present invention is also characterized in that a ready-to-use bleaching agent is applied to keratin fibers that have been dyed with at least one oxidative dye precursor from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluene diamine, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and / or 2- (methoxymethyl) -p-phenylenediamine.

Regarding other preferred embodiments of the method of the present invention, all that is said is valid with respect to the means of the present invention, with corresponding changes.

Examples

1.1. Dyeing

The following compositions were obtained (all results are given in wt.%).

Coloring Cream (F1)

Starting materials Mass% Cetearyl alcohol 8.5 Fatty alcohols C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ 3.0 Ceteareth-20 0.5 Ceteareth 12 0.5 "Plantacare 1200 UP" (lauryl glucoside, 50-53% aqueous solution) 2.0 Sodium laureth-6-carboxylate (21% aqueous solution) 10.0 Sodium Miretsulfate (68-73% aqueous solution) 2,8 Copolymer "sodium acrylate, trimethylammonium chloride propyl acrylamide" (19-21% aqueous solution) 3.8 Potassium hydroxide 0.83 P-toluylene diamine sulfate 2.25 m-aminophenol 0,075 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine 0.12 Resorcinol 0.62 4-Chlorresorcinol 0.26 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine 0.04 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane tetrahydrochloride 0.05 Ammonium sulfate 0.1 Sodium sulfite 0.4 Vitamin C 0.1 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (60% aqueous solution) 0.2 Ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 7.2 Water up to 100

Oxidant (Ox)

Starting materials Mass% Sodium benzoate 0.04 Dipicolinic acid 0.1 Disodium pyrophosphate 0.1 Potassium hydroxide 0.09 1,2-propylene glycol 1,0 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (60% aqueous solution) 0.25 Vaseline oil 0.30 Steartrimonium chloride 0.39 Cetearyl alcohol 3.4 Ceteareth-20 1,0 Hydrogen peroxide (50% aqueous solution) 12.0

Coloring cream (F1) and oxidizing agent (Ox) were mixed in a quantitative ratio of 1: 1 and applied to hair strands (curled blond hair of a European type). The mass ratio "working mixture: hair" was 4: 1, the action time was 30 minutes at a temperature of 32 ° C. Then the strands were washed with water, dried and left alone for at least 24 hours at room temperature. The strands were painted in a dark brown color tone.

1.2. Bleaching

The following bleaching agents were obtained (all results are given in wt.% Of the active substance).

Means (a)

Means (a) Mass% Sodium dithionite 8.8

Means (b)

Means (b) Mass% Cetearyl alcohol 2.9 PEG-40 Castor Oil 0.55 Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 0.28 Hydroxyethane-1,1-disphosphonic acid (1-ethidronic acid) 0.24 Water (distilled) up to 100 PH value 2.0

Remedy (c)

Remedy (c) (C1) (C2) (C3) (C4) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 11,4 11,4 - - Cocamidopropyl Hydroxy Sultaine - - 12.5 12.5 Oxalic acid 4,5 4,5 4,5 4,5 Methanesulfonic acid - 2.1 - 2.1 PEG-12-Dimethicone 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 Xanthan 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 Propylene glycol 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6 Water up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 PH value 2.0-2.4 2.0-2.4 2.0-2.4 2.0-2.4

Means (a) and (b) were mixed (8.8 g of the agent (a) were mixed with 100 g of the agent (b)). This bleach prepared for use was applied to the hair dyed according to paragraph 1.1, and left to act for 45 minutes at a temperature of 30 ° C.

Then the strands were washed with water for 20 seconds.

Immediately upon completion of this, the bleached strands were treated for 1 minute with the agent (c) and then washed again with water for 20 seconds. The treatment with means (c) was repeated twice more. Then the strands were thoroughly washed for 5 minutes with water and dried.

The color of the strands was evaluated visually versus time. Assessment of the color intensity was carried out on the following scale:

0 - the strand no longer has any tangible color ("blond blonde", corresponding to the original color of the applied curled blond hair of the European type);

1 - the strand is colored with a weak color intensity;

2 - the strand is colored with medium color intensity;

3 - the strand is colored with a strong color intensity;

4 - the color of the strand is the same as immediately after staining, without the effect of discoloration.

As a comparative sample (test V, comparison) used a strand colored according to the description in paragraph 1.1. Then, the agents (a) and (b) were mixed (8.8 g of the agent (a) were mixed again with 100 g of the agent (b)). This bleach prepared for use was applied to the dyed hair and left to act for 45 minutes at a temperature of 30 ° C. Then the strands were washed with water for 5 minutes.

The comparative strands were treated with a ready-to-use bleaching agent ((a) + (b)) without, however, using the additional treatment agent (c). After bleaching (after applying the agent ((a) + (b)), the strand was only thoroughly washed with water for 5 minutes.

The color of the comparative strand (test V, comparison) was also observed as a function of time.

The following results were obtained.

V (C1) (C2) (C3) (C4) Coloring the strand during washing (5 minutes) 2-3 1-2 0-1 1-2 0-1 Coloring the strand after 10 minutes 3 2 one 2 one Coloring the strand after 60 minutes 3 2 one 2 one Coloring the strand after 1 minute 3-4 2 one 2 one

Claims (79)

1. Set for restorative discoloration of dyed keratin fibers, in which individually are packaged: (I) a container (A) containing a cosmetic product (a); (Ii) a container (B) containing a cosmetic (b); (Iii) a container (C) containing an aqueous cosmetic (c); moreover: - the tool (a) in the container (A) contains: (a1) a reducing agent selected from sodium dithionite; - the tool (b) in the container (B) contains: (b1) water and (b2) 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid; and - the tool (c) in the container (C) contains: (c1) methanesulfonic acid and oxalic acid; (c2) one or more zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants. 2. A kit according to claim 1, characterized in that the agent (a) in the container (A) contains: (a) a reducing agent selected from sodium dithionite in an amount of from 25.0 to 100 wt.%, from 45.0 to 100 wt.%, from 65.0 to 100 wt.% or from 85.0 to 100 wt. % based on the total weight of the product (a). 3. Set according to any one of paragraphs. 1-2, characterized in that the tool (c) in the container (C) contains: (c1) methanesulfonic acid and oxalic acid, in a total amount of from 2.0 to 20.0 wt.%, from 3.0 to 18.0 wt.%, from 3.5 to 16.0 wt.% or from 4 , 0 to 14.0 wt.% Calculated on the total weight of the funds (c). 4. Set according to any one of paragraphs. 1-3, characterized in that the tool (c) in the container (C) contains: (c2) one or more zwitterionic surfactants selected from the group of compounds of formulas (I) to (IV):

Where: each of the radicals R1 independently of one another is linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ -alkyl, linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ -alkenyl or linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ -hydroxyalkyl; R2, R3 are independently C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl; each of the indices n independently from each other means an integer from 1 to 6; each of the indices m independently from each other means an integer from 0 to 6; each of the indices o independently of each other means an integer from 0 to 6; each of the indices p independently from each other means an integer from 0 to 6; provided that the sum of m, o and p is at least 1. 5. Set according to any one of paragraphs. 1-4, characterized in that the tool (c) in the container (C) contains: (c2) one or more zwitterionic surfactants of the formula (I):

Where: R1 is a linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ alkyl or a linear or branched mono- or polyunsaturated C ₉ -C ₂₉ alkenyl; R 2, R 3 are independently C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl; n is an integer from 1 to 6 or equal to 3; m is an integer from 1 to 6; o means an integer from 1 to 6; p is an integer from 1 to 6. 6. Set according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5, characterized in that the tool (c) in the container (C) contains: (c2) one or more zwitterionic surfactants of the formula (II):

Where: R1 is a linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₉ alkyl or a linear or branched mono- or polyunsaturated C ₉ -C ₂₉ alkenyl; R 2, R 3 are independently C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl; n is an integer from 1 to 6 or equal to 3; m is an integer from 1 to 6; o is 0; p is 0. 7. Set according to any one of paragraphs. 1-6, characterized in that the tool (c) in the container (C) contains: (c2) one or more zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants in a total amount of from 3.0 to 50.0 wt.%, from 5.0 to 40.0 wt.%, from 7.0 to 35 , 0 wt.% Or from 7.5 to 25 wt.% Calculated on the total weight of the funds (c). 8. Set according to any one of paragraphs. 1-7, characterized in that: - the agent (a) in the container (A) is an anhydrous agent; - the agent (b) in the container (B) is an aqueous agent in which the pH is in the range from 1 to 6, from 1.3 to 4.5, from 1.6 to 4.0, or from 2.0 to 3.6; and - the pH of the agent (c) in the container (C) is in the range from 0.5 to 4.0, from 0.7 to 3.5, from 0.9 to 3.0, or from 1.1 to 2.5 . 9. Set according to any one of paragraphs. 1-8, characterized in that: - the total amount of all dyes and precursors of oxidative dyes contained in the tool (a) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, not more than 0.1 wt.%, not more than 0.05 wt.% or not more than 0.01 wt.% based on the total weight of the funds (a); - the total number of all dyes and precursors of oxidative dyes contained in the tool (b) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, not more than 0.1 wt.%, not more than 0.05 wt.% or not more than 0.01 wt.% based on the total weight of the funds (b); - the total number of all dyes and precursors of oxidative dyes contained in the tool (c) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, not more than 0.1 wt.%, not more than 0.05 wt.% or not more than 0.01 wt.% based on the total weight of the funds (c); 10. Set according to any one of paragraphs. 1-9, characterized in that: - the total amount of all oxidizing agents from the group of peroxides and persulfates contained in the tool (a) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, not more than 0.1 wt.%, not more than 0.05 wt.% or not more than 0, 01 wt.% Based on the total weight of the agent (a); - the total amount of all oxidizing agents from the group of peroxides and persulfates contained in the tool (b) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, not more than 0.1 wt.%, not more than 0.05 wt.% or not more than 0, 01 wt.% Based on the total weight of the agent (b); - the total amount of all oxidizing agents from the group of peroxides and persulfates contained in the tool (c) is not more than 0.2 wt.%, not more than 0.1 wt.%, not more than 0.05 wt.% or not more than 0, 01 wt.% Based on the total weight of the product (c). 11. A method for reducing bleaching of dyed keratin fibers, which comprises the following steps in the following sequence: (I) obtaining a ready-to-use bleaching agent by mixing the agent (a) as defined in paragraphs. 1, 2, 8, 9 and / or 10, with the tool (b) as defined in paragraphs. 1, 3, 8, 9 and / or 10; (Ii) applying a ready-to-use bleaching agent to keratin fibers; (III) exposure to a bleaching agent for a period of time from 5 to 60 minutes, from 10 to 55 minutes, from 20 to 50 minutes, or from 30 to 45 minutes; (Iv) washing off the bleaching agent with keratin fibers; (V) applying a cosmetic aqueous agent (c) to keratin fibers, wherein agent (c) is an agent as defined in claims. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and / or 10; (VI) exposure to the agent (c) for a period of time from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, from 30 seconds to 20 minutes, from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, or from 30 seconds to 5 minutes; (Vii) washing off the agent (c) with keratin fibers. 12. The method according to p. 11, characterized in that at the end of stage (VII) carry out the following stages in the following sequence: (VIII) applying a cosmetic aqueous agent (c) to keratin fibers, wherein agent (c) is an agent as defined in claims. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and / or 10; (IX) exposure to the agent (c) for a period of time from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, from 30 seconds to 20 minutes, from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, or from 30 seconds to 5 minutes; (X) flushing the agent (c) with keratin fibers. 13. The method according to p. 11 or 12, characterized in that the ready-to-use bleaching agent is applied to keratin fibers that have been dyed with at least one oxidative dye precursor from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluene diamine, N, N bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and / or 2- (methoxymethyl) -p-phenylenediamine.