RU2784426C2 - Cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: group of inventions relates to a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition for cleansing hair and/or skin includes (a) one or several ethercarboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of the formula: R₁-O-(CH₂-CH(R₂)-O)_n(CH₂CH₂O)_m-CH₂COOH, (b) a non-ionogenic surfactant including fatty alcohol of the formula: R₃-O-(CH₂-CH(R₄)O)_p-(CH₂CH₂O)_q-H, where R₁ and R₃ are a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having 12-16 carbon atoms; R₂ and R₄ are C₁-C₃ linear or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer of 0-3, the sum of m+n=1-3; composite ester of fatty acid of the formula: R₁-O-(CH₂-CH(R₂)-O)_n(CH₂CH₂O)_m-CH₂COOR₅, where R₁ is an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 12-16 carbon atoms; R₂ is C₁-C₃ linear or branched alkyl chain, R₅ is an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 12-16 carbon atoms, where R₃ is an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 12-16 carbon atoms, n and m are independently an integer of 0-3, the sum of m+n=1-3; p and q are independently an integer of 0-3, the sum of p+q=0-3, amount of which is less than 1% by wt.; where the molar ratio of (a) to (b) is from 6:1 to 4:1. Methods for the production of a composition, the use of a compositions in shaving foams, and a method for cleansing skin and/or hair are also disclosed.

EFFECT: group of inventions provides a good cleansing capability and foam-forming properties.

11 cl, 2 tbl, 2 ex

Description

The technical field to which the invention belongs

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more estercarboxylic acids and one or more nonionic surfactants. The present invention also relates to methods for making and using a cosmetic composition.

State of the art

Cleansing compositions for skin and hair should not only have good cleansing and cleaning power, but should also be soft and well tolerated by the skin, not cause excessive degreasing or dryness of the skin and hair, be easy to apply, homogeneous and flowable at room temperature. In addition, consumers demand that skin and hair cleansing compositions have good lathering properties.

In order for the composition to meet all these requirements and be useful for cleansing hair and skin, it must have at least the following properties:

- Foaming capacity for obtaining a large volume of foam, and where the foam is obtained in a short period of time;

- The stability of the foam, which is the foam that remains at rest after a certain period;

- The amount of foam associated with a good cleansing effect;

- Foam quality: In a number of surfactant applications, consumers are looking for good quality foam. For example, a hair or skin cleanser that does not produce a sufficiently creamy stable lather during use would not be considered acceptable by consumers. Thus, the quality of the foam associated with the creaminess of the foam (associated with the conditioning effect), the size of the foam and the consistency of the foam, associated with the stability or density of the foam, are the main characteristics that must be observed.

Obtaining suitable compositions that meet the requirements described above is a technical challenge, since the number of combinations of surfactants that meet the profile of requirements is usually small. Traditionally, anionic surfactants have been used in skin and hair cleansing compositions suitable for making a foaming cosmetic composition.

EP2612652A1 describes a cleaning composition containing an ester carboxylic acid or salt thereof having an alkyl chain containing two or more alkyl groups and a specific mole distribution of ethylene oxide. Good foaming properties, foam volume and rinsing properties are described.

A combination of anionic surfactants such as ether carboxylic acids and alkyl ether sulfates is also described. EP1994922A1 describes the combination of polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate, a carboxylic acid ester surfactant, an alkyl polyglucoside, and one or more higher fatty acids and a higher alcohol to produce cleaning compositions with good foaming properties.

Another approach is to prepare surfactant compositions with additives, so-called foaming agents or foam enhancers, which favorably affect the foam properties of the mixtures. EP 1479754 describes surfactant mixtures containing alkyl ether carboxylates and ester glycerides as foaming agents for surfactant mixtures.

Another possibility for improving foaming and foam quality is the inclusion of a polymer in the cleaning composition. For example, EP1329214A1 describes a hair cleansing composition containing an anionic surfactant having a sulfate group, a higher alcohol and a cationic polymer with good lathering and lather lubricity upon rinsing.

From the prior art set forth above, it is clear that there is still a need for better compositions. Thus, it is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition having softness, ease of application, good washing and cleaning power, fluidity and homogeneity at room temperature, and having good foaming properties such as foaming power, foam stability, foam amount and foam quality; where the cosmetic composition includes an estercarboxylic acid and a nonionic surfactant in certain ratios. Another object of the present invention is a method for preparing a cosmetic composition by mixing the ingredients with water and stirring to obtain a homogeneous solution, and using such a cosmetic composition for cleansing the skin and/or hair.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The first object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15; and

- (b) one or more non-ionic surfactants,

Wherein the molar ratio between component (a) and component (b) is in the range from 8:1 to 2:1.

The second object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15; and

- (b) one or more non-ionic surfactants,

Wherein the molar ratio between component (a) and component (b) is in the range from 8:1 to 2:1, and where the composition can be obtained by a method comprising at least the following stages:

i. Fatty alcohol alkoxylation;

ii. Carboxymethylation of the mixture obtained in step i)

iii. Hydrolysis of the carboxylic acid ester formed as a by-product during step ii) by a saponification reaction.

According to a third aspect, the present invention provides a process for preparing the cosmetic composition of the invention.

In a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for skin and/or hair cleansing.

According to a fifth aspect, the present invention provides a method for cleansing skin and/or hair, comprising the steps of moisturizing or wetting the skin and/or hair, applying a sufficient amount of the composition according to the invention to the skin and/or hair, and rinsing the skin and/or hair with water.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

All percentages are by weight unless otherwise noted. The active mass is the mass of the active substance in relation to the total mass of the active substance of the composition, and the active substance is understood as the totality of specific components responsible for a certain action. Within the scope of the present application (i.e., in relation to the composition), an active substance is a set of ingredients from which its effectiveness is fully or partially derived.

By cosmetic composition is meant a composition suitable as an ingredient for use in cosmetics and personal care products.

The main object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) one or more estercarboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O-(CH ₂ -CH(R ₂ )-O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -(CH ₂ )COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15; and

(b) one or more non-ionic surfactants,

where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably from 7:1 to 3:1, more preferably from 6:1 to 4:1

Ethercarboxylic acid or its salt (a):

The present invention includes one or more ester carboxylic acids or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof (a) represented by formula (I)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the ester carboxylic acids or salts thereof may be ethoxylated and propoxylated, the value of n and m in formula (I) is therefore greater than 0 and R ₂ is methyl. The order of the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide groups is not critical to the invention. Therefore, in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, both the ester carboxylic acid or its salts according to formula (I), including ethylene oxide and propylene oxide in separate blocks, and those ester carboxylic acids or their salts in accordance with formula (I), where ethylene oxide and propylene oxide are randomly distributed.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ester carboxylic acid or its salts represented by formula (I) do not contain propylene oxide, i. e. n=0.

In another embodiment of the present invention, R ₁ is a linear or branched alkyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, or a linear alkenyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms and 1 to 3 double bonds; preferably alkyl or alkenyl contains from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

In another embodiment of the present invention, R ₁ is a linear or branched alkyl or linear alkenyl derived from natural fats and oils. Preferred fats and oils include palm oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, olive oil, soybean oil; animal fat such as tallow, fish oil, hardened oils and semi-solid oils, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, R ₁ is a linear or branched alkyl or linear alkenyl derived from palm oil or coconut oil.

Used in the present description, the term "alkyl" refers to a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms.

Used in the present description, the term "alkenyl" refers to a linear hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 3 double bonds.

Cosmetically acceptable salts of the estercarboxylic acid represented by formula (I) are alkali or alkaline earth metal ion salts such as sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium salts. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the salts of the estercarboxylic acid represented by formula (I) are the sodium salt or potassium salt of the estercarboxylic acid.

How to obtain

The estercarboxylic acid or its salts (a) according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising at least the steps of alkoxylation of a fatty alcohol to obtain a mixture comprising alkoxylated fatty alcohols and alkylation of the mixture with a halocarboxylic acid.

i) Fatty alcohol alkoxylation:

Alkoxylation of alcohols can be carried out under standard conditions known to those skilled in the art. For example, a polyoxyethylene group is obtained by adding ethylene oxide to fatty alcohols, mainly with an alkaline catalyst such as NaOH, KOH or NaOCH ₃ , which gives a wide distribution of polyoxyethylene oxide (broad ethoxylation). For special applications, ethoxylation can be catalyzed with Lewis acids or using metallic Na or NaH to achieve a narrow distribution range (narrow degree of ethoxylation). However, one can also start with commercially available ethoxylated alcohols.

The product resulting from the alkoxylation reaction contains a mixture of an alkoxylated fatty alcohol and a non-alkoxylated fatty alcohol.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is represented by formula (II):

R ₁ -O-(CH ₂ -CH(R ₂ )O) _m -(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n -H

Formula (II)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, m and n are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3.

Suitable fatty alcohols according to formula (II) are n-butanol, n-hexanol, n-octanol, 2-ethylbutanol, 2-methylpentanol, 2-ethylhexanol, 2-methylheptanol, n-decanol, 2-methyl-4-nonanol, 3 ,7-dimethyl-3-octanol, 3,7-dimethyl-1-octanol, 3,6-dimethyl-3-octanol, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (1- hexadecanol), palmitoleyl alcohol (cis-9-hexadecan-1-ol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), isostearyl alcohol (16-methylheptadecan-1-ol), elaidyl alcohol (9E-octadecen-1-ol), oleyl alcohol (cis-9-octadecen-1-ol), linoleyl alcohol (9Z, 12Z-octadecadien-1-ol), elaidolinoleyl alcohol (9E, 12E-octadecadien-1-ol), linoleyl alcohol (9Z,12Z,15Z- octadecatrien-1-ol), elaidolinolenyl alcohol (9E,12E,15E-octadecatrien-1-ol), ricinoleyl alcohol (12-hydroxy-9-ostadecen-1-ol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol ( 1-docosanol), erucyl alcohol (cis-13-docosen-1-ol), or mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol is lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), their respective alkoxylated alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

In another embodiment of the present invention, fatty alcohols are derived from natural fats and oils. Preferred fats and oils include palm oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, olive oil, soybean oil; animal fat such as tallow, fish oil, hardened oils and semi-solid oils, and mixtures thereof. As a result of their natural origin, alcohols that are alkoxylated may contain a large number of alkyl and alkenyl groups, said groups being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the proportion of fatty alcohols in which R ₁ represents C ₁₂ or C ₁₄ is more than 60% wt., preferably more than 80% of the mass.

ii) Carboxymethylation reaction:

The carboxymethylation of the mixture of alkoxylated fatty alcohols and non-alkoxylated fatty alcohols obtained in step i) can be carried out in several ways, but one of the known methods is described, for example, in EP2807241A1.

In such a case, a mixture of alkoxylated alcohols and non-alkoxylated alcohols is reacted with a strong base, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, under conditions known to the person skilled in the art, which may include the presence of a reducing agent, such as sodium borohydride, to form the corresponding alkoxylates. One possible method is carboxymethylation with sodium monochloroacetate (SCMA).

According to the process described, after carboxymethylation, the alkali metal estercarboxylate can be converted to the free estercarboxylic acid by acidification with any acid, preferably HCl, and subsequent removal of the aqueous phase.

The composition resulting from the carboxymethylation reaction includes a carboxylic acid ether, a free fatty alcohol, a free alkoxylated fatty alcohol, and an ester obtained as a by-product of the reaction of a carboxylic acid ether and a fatty alcohol in a free state and an alkoxylated alcohol in a free state present in the reaction mixture.

Nonionic surfactant (b) :

The present invention includes a nonionic surfactant (b). The general definition and general properties of nonionic surfactants are well known to those skilled in the art. The definition in "NONIONIC SURFACTANTS - Chemical Analysis" ISBN 0-8247-7626-7 is incorporated herein by reference.

Examples of nonionic surfactants according to the invention include nonionic surfactants such as alkanolamides, alkoxylated alkanolamides, alkoxylated trimethiololpropane, alkoxylated 1,2,3-trihydroxyhexane, alkoxylated pentaethritrite, alkoxylated sorbitol, alkoxylated partial ester of glycerol and fatty acid, alkoxylated complex trimethylolpropane fatty acid ester, 1,2,3-trihydroxyhexane fatty acid alkoxylated ester, pentaethritrite alkoxylated fatty acid ester, sorbitol fatty acid alkoxylated ester, fatty alcohol, fatty alcohol polyglycol esters, alkylphenol, polyglycol ethers alkylphenols, polyglycol esters of fatty acids, polyglycol ethers of fatty acid amides, polyglycol ethers of fatty amines, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk(en)yl oligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid-N-alkylglucamides, ethoxylated glucamine derivatives, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat based plant products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, alkyl polyglucosides, sorbitan esters and polysorbates.

In an embodiment of the invention, the nonionic surfactant (b) is a fatty alcohol containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, where the fatty alcohol may be ethoxylated and/or propoxylated.

Fatty alcohols C4-C22 are aliphatic alcohols derived from natural fats and oils, as well as synthetic origin. Preferred fats and oils include palm oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, olive oil, soybean oil; and animal fat such as tallow, bone fat; fish oils, hardened oils and semi-solid oils, and mixtures thereof.

Optionally, C4-C22 fatty alcohols are ethoxylated and/or propoxylated having an average degree of alkoxylation from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 6, most preferably from 1 to 3.

Examples of C4-C22 fatty alcohols include caprylic alcohol (1-octanol), pelargon alcohol (1-nonanol), capric alcohol (1-decanol), lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol ( 1-hexadecanol), palmitoleyl alcohol (cis-9-hexadecan-1-ol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), isostearyl alcohol (16-methylheptadecan-1-ol), elaidyl alcohol (9E-octadecen-1-ol) , oleyl alcohol (cis-9-octadecen-1-ol), linoleyl alcohol (9Z, 12Z-octadecadien-1-ol), elaidolinoleyl alcohol (9E, 12E-octadecadien-1-ol), linoleyl alcohol (9Z,12Z, 15Z-octadecatrien-1-ol), elaidolinolenyl alcohol (9E,12E,15E-octadecatrien-1-ol), ricinoleyl alcohol (12-hydroxy-9-ostadecen-1-ol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol), erucyl alcohol (cis-13-docosen-1-ol), and mixtures thereof.

Examples of commercially available fatty alcohols are products with the trade number KALCOL® 6098, (INCI cetyl alcohol, KALCOL® 2465 (INCI C12-C16 alcohol), KALCOL® 8098 (INCI stearyl alcohol), KALCOL® 6850P, (INCI cetearyl alcohol), all they are marketed by KAO Chemicals Europe.

In a preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant (b) of the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols of formula (II):

R ₃ -O-(CH ₂ -CH(R ₄ )O) _p -(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q -H

Formula (III)

where R ₃ represents a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₄ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 15, preferably p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 10, more preferably p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 6, even more preferably p and q are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 3.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, p is equal to 0.

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant (b) of the composition comprises a mixture of fatty alcohols of formula (II), where the sum of p + q is 0, and alkoxylated fatty alcohols of formula (II), where the sum of p + q is from 1 up to 15, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1 to, even more preferably from 1 to 3.

Examples of C ₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols include caprylic alcohol (1-octanol), pelargon alcohol (1-nonanol), capric alcohol (1-decanol), lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol), palmitoleyl alcohol (cis-9-hexadecan-1-ol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), isostearyl alcohol (16-methylheptadecan-1-ol), elaidyl alcohol (9E-octadecen-1- ol), oleyl alcohol (cis-9-octadecen-1-ol), linoleyl alcohol (9Z, 12Z-octadecadien-1-ol), elaidolinoleyl alcohol (9E, 12E-octadecadien-1-ol), linoleyl alcohol (9Z, 12Z,15Z-octadecatrien-1-ol), elaidolinolenyl alcohol (9E,12E,15E-octadecatrien-1-ol), ricinoleyl alcohol (12-hydroxy-9-ostadecen-1-ol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol), erucyl alcohol (cis-13-docosen-1-ol), and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant (b) corresponds to the non-carboxymethylated species resulting from the production of a carboxylic acid ether (a).

In another embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant (b) containing one or more fatty alcohols of formula (II) corresponds to the non-carboxymethylated species (alkoxylated fatty alcohol and non-alkoxylated fatty alcohol) resulting from the production of the carboxylic acid ester (a).

In another embodiment of the present invention, a nonionic surfactant (b) containing one or more fatty alcohols of formula (III) is added to the cosmetic composition as a mixed composition or mixture.

Amphoteric surfactant (c) :

The cosmetic composition of the present invention optionally includes component (c), said component being an amphoteric surfactant.

Examples of the amphoteric surfactant are alkylamine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl sulfo betaines (sultaines), amidoalkyl betaines, alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amphoglycinates, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl and hydroxysultaines. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are betaines, alkylamine oxides, alkylamphoglycinates and alkylamphoacetates.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, component (c) comprises one or more ampholytes. Specific examples of ampholytes are amine oxides. Suitable amine oxides according to the present invention are amine oxides with a hydrocarbon chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples of commercially available amine oxides are OXIDET® DM-20 (INCI name Lauramine Oxide), OXIDET® DMCLD (INCI name Cocamine Oxide) OXIDET® DM-246 (INCI name Cocamine Oxide), OXIDET® DM-4 INCI Myristamine Oxide), OXIDET® L-75 (INCI name Cocamidopropylamine Oxide) are all commercially available from KAO Chemicals Europe.

In the most preferred embodiment of the present invention, component (c) contains one or more betaines. Specific examples of betaines are alkyl betaines, alkyl sulfo betaines (sultaines), amidoalkyl betaines, alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl betaines and hydroxysultaines. Particularly preferred betaines are alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylamidopropylhydroxysultaines, alkylhydroxysultaines and alkylamphoacetates. In a preferred embodiment, the betaines are alkylamidopropyl betaines.

Examples of commercially available useful betaine surfactants according to the invention are BETADET® HR, BETADET® HR-50K, BETADET® S-20, BETADET® SHR and BETADET® THC-2, all of which are commercially available from Kao Chemicals Europe.

Estercarboxylic acid ester (d) :

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally include an carboxylic acid ester (d) of formula (IV)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOR ₅ (IV)

where R ₁ represents an alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, R ₅ is an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms, or -(CH ₂ -CH(R ₂ )-O) _p (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q -R ₃ ; where R ₃ is an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, the sum of n +m is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3; p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 15, the sum of p+q is from 0 to 15, preferably p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 10, more preferably p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 6 and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 6, even more preferably p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 3 and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 3.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the sum of p+q is 0.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the sum of p+q is from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 6, even more preferably from 1 to 3.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the amount of carboxylic acid ester (d) is less than 20 wt%. in relation to the total active weight of the sum (a), (b) and (d), preferably less than 10% of the mass. in relation to the total active mass of the sum of (a), (b) and (d).

In an embodiment of the present invention, the ester carboxylic acid ester can be obtained as a by-product of the reaction of the ester carboxylic acid (a) and the fatty alcohol in the free state and the alkoxylated alcohol in the free state present in the reaction mixture.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the carboxylic acid ester (d) is obtained from the reaction of the carboxylic acid ether (a) and the free nonionic surfactant (b) present in the cosmetic composition.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the carboxylic acid ester (d) can be hydrolyzed by a saponification reaction.

Saponification reaction:

The saponification reaction can be carried out by reacting an alkali with an ester of a carboxylic acid to obtain, by hydrolysis of the ester, the corresponding alcohol and ester of a carboxylic acid.

In an embodiment of the invention, the alkali is an alkali metal hydroxide such as NaOH or KOH. Preferably, the alkali metal hydroxide is KOH.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the molar ratio of estercarboxylic acid (a) and KOH is from 1:1 to 1.23, preferably from 1:1 to 1:1.17

In an embodiment of the present invention, after the saponification reaction, the amount of the carboxylic acid ester (d) is less than 15 wt%. in relation to the total active weight of the sum (a), (b) and (d), preferably less than 10% of the mass. in relation to the total active mass of the sum of (a), (b) and (d).

In another embodiment of the present invention, essentially no carboxylic acid ester (d). By a substantial absence of the estercarboxylic acid ester (d) is meant that the amount of the estercarboxylic acid ester (d) is less than 2% by mass, such as less than 1% by mass, such as less than 0.5% by mass. in relation to the total active mass of the sum of (a), (b) and (d).

Electrolyte (e)

The cosmetic composition of the present invention optionally includes component (e), said component being an electrolyte.

The electrolyte is preferably a mono-, di- or trivalent metal salt, and more particularly alkali and alkaline earth metal salts such as barium, calcium, sodium, potassium, magnesium salts and mixtures thereof. The ions constituting these salts may be selected from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, phosphates, sulfonates, glycerophosphates, borates, bromides, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides.

Preferred electrolytes are magnesium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium bromide, magnesium sulfate or magnesium chloride. Even more preferably, the electrolytes are sodium chloride and potassium chloride.

Cosmetic composition of the invention

The main object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3.

- (b) one or more non-ionic surfactants

where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably from 7:1 to 3:1, more preferably from 6:1 to 4:1.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3.

- (b) one or more nonionic surfactants, where the nonionic surfactant comprises a fatty alcohol of formula (III)

R ₃ -O-(CH ₂ -CH(R ₄ )O) _p -(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q -H

Formula (III)

where R3 is a straight or branched alkyl chain having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R4 is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 15, preferably p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 10, more preferably p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 6, even more preferably p and q are independently is an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 3;

and where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably from 7:1 to 3:1, preferably from 6:1 to 4:1, even more preferably from 5.5 :1 to 4.5:1.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant comprises a mixture of a fatty alcohol of formula (III), where the sum of p+q is 0, and a fatty alcohol of formula (III), where the sum of p+q is from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 up to 10, more preferably 1 to 6, even more preferably 1 to 3.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least (a) one or more estercarboxylic acids of formula (I) and at least (b) a nonionic surfactant, where the nonionic surfactant (b) corresponds to non-carboxymethylated species from obtaining an estercarboxylic acid (a).

In an embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least (a) one or more estercarboxylic acids of formula (I) and at least (b) a nonionic surfactant containing one or more fatty alcohols of formula (II), where the nonionic the surfactant (b) corresponds to the non-carboxymethylated species from the preparation of the carboxylic acid ester (a).

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least (a) one or more estercarboxylic acids of formula (I) and at least (b) a nonionic surfactant containing one or more fatty alcohols of formula (III), where the nonionic surfactant is added to the cosmetic composition as a mixed composition or mixture.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the percentage of active substance of the cosmetic composition comprising (a) an estercarboxylic acid or its salt of formula (I) and (b) a nonionic surfactant is more than 50%.

The active substance corresponds to the mass percentage of the active substance (% wt.), calculated from the sum of the active substance of all specific components responsible for a certain action. For the present invention, the active substance refers to surface-active components, ie (a), (b), (d) and optionally (c).

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3;

- (b) one or more nonionic surfactants, where the nonionic surfactant includes a fatty alcohol;

- (c) amphoteric surfactant

where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably 7:1-3:1, more preferably from 6:1 to 4:1;

and where the molar ratio between component (a), component (b) and component (c) is 90:5:5-40:6:54, preferably from 70:5:25 to 45:7:48.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3;

- (b) one or more nonionic surfactants, where the nonionic surfactant includes a fatty alcohol;

- (c) amphoteric surfactant

where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably from 7:1 to 3:1, more preferably from 6:1 to 4:1;

and where the molar ratio between component (a), component (b) and component (c) is 89:6:5-38:15:47, preferably from 82:8:10 to 60:10:30.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3;

- (b) one or more nonionic surfactants, where the nonionic surfactant includes a fatty alcohol;

- (c) amphoteric surfactant

- (d) an ester carboxylic acid of formula (IV)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOR ₅ (IV)

where R ₁ represents an alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, R ₅ is an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms, or -(CH ₂ -CH(R ₂ )-O) _p (CH2CH2O) _q -R ₃ ; where R3 is an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, the sum of n+ m is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3, p and q are equal to 0 or represent an integer from 1 to 15, the sum of p+q is from 0 to 15, preferably p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 10, more preferably p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of p + q is from 0 to 6, even more preferably p and q independently represent an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 3;

and wherein the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is 8:1 to 2:1, preferably 7:1 to 3:1, more preferably 6:1 to 4:1.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O- (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3;

- (b) one or more nonionic surfactants, where the nonionic surfactant includes a fatty alcohol;

- (c) amphoteric surfactant

- (d) an ester carboxylic acid of formula (IV)

- (e) electrolyte

where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably from 7:1 to 3:1, more preferably from 6:1 to 4:1.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 75% to 95%, preferably 80% to 95% of component (a)

- 5% to 20%, preferably 5% to 15% of component (b),

each of these amounts is expressed as a percentage by weight of said component relative to the total active weight of the sum of (a), (b) and (d).

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 27% to 90%, preferably 35% to 85% of component (a)

- 3% to 15%, preferably 5% to 10% of component (b)

- from 5% to 70%, preferably from 10% to 60% of component (c),

each of these amounts is expressed as a percentage by weight of said component relative to the total active weight of the sum of (a), (b) and (c).

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 27% to 90%, preferably 35% to 85% of component (a)

- 3% to 15%, preferably 5% to 10% of component (b)

- 5% to 70%, preferably 10% to 60% of component (c)

- component (d) in an amount of less than 15% wt., preferably in an amount of less than 10% of the mass.

each of these amounts is expressed as a percentage by weight of said component relative to the total active weight of the sum of (a), (b), (c) and (d).

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 27% to 90%, preferably 35% to 85% of component (a)

- 3% to 15%, preferably 5% to 10% of component (b)

- 5% to 70%, preferably 10% to 60% of component (c)

each of these amounts is expressed as a percentage by weight of said component relative to the total active weight of the sum of (a), (b) and (c); and in the absence of component (d)

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 27% to 90%, preferably 35% to 85% of component (a)

- 3% to 15%, preferably 5% to 10% of component (b)

- 5% to 70%, preferably 10% to 60% of component (c)

- component (d) in an amount of less than 15 wt. -%, preferably in an amount of less than 10 wt. -%, or, alternatively, in the absence of component (d)

- component (e)

each of the indicated amounts is expressed as a percentage by weight of said component in relation to the total active weight of the sum of (a), (b), (c) and (d), and where the molar ratio between (a) and (e) is from 1: 0.03 to 1:0.27, preferably 1:0.04 to 1:0.16.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 75% to 95%, preferably 80% to 95% of component (a)

- 5% to 20%, preferably 5% to 15% of component (b)

- component (e)

each of these amounts is expressed as a percentage by weight of said component relative to the total active weight of the sum of (a) and (b); and where the molar ratio between (a) and (e) is from 1:0.03 to 1:0.27, preferably from 1:0.04 to 1:0.16.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents an alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3;

- (b) a nonionic surfactant, preferably a fatty alcohol;

where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably from 7:1 to 3:1, more preferably from 6:1 to 4:1;

and where the composition can be obtained by a method comprising at least the following steps:

i. Fatty alcohol alkoxylation;

ii. Carboxymethylation of the mixture obtained in step i)

iii. Hydrolysis of the carboxylic acid ester obtained as a by-product in step ii) by means of a saponification reaction.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises (a) one or more estercarboxylic acids or their salts of formula (I), (b) a nonionic surfactant, preferably a fatty alcohol, and the composition can be obtained by a method comprising at least , steps i) fatty alcohol alkoxylation, ii) carboxymethylation of the mixture obtained in step i), and hydrolysis of the carboxylic acid ester obtained as a by-product in step ii) by means of a saponification reaction, where the saponification reaction is carried out with KOH.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

R ₁ -O (CH ₂ -CH (R ₂ ) -O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I)

where R ₁ represents an alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 15, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 15, preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 10, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 10, more preferably n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 6, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 6, even more preferably n and m are independently are an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3;

- (b) a nonionic surfactant, preferably a fatty alcohol;

where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably from 7:1 to 3:1, preferably from 6:1 to 4:1, even more preferably from 5.5: 1 to 4.5:1;

and where the composition can be obtained by a method comprising at least the following steps:

i. Alkoxylation of a fatty alcohol with an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms;

ii. Carboxymethylation of the mixture obtained in step i) comprising at least an alkoxylated alcohol and its alkoxides with C2-C5 chlorocarboxylic acid;

iii. Conversion of the estercarboxylic acid salt thus obtained to the free estercarboxylic acid by adding an acid and then separating the phases;

iv. Hydrolysis of the carboxylic acid ester obtained as a by-product in step ii) by a saponification reaction.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is fluid when the content of the active substance in the cosmetic composition is above 50%, preferably above 55% active weight of the sum of (a), (b) and (d).

In an embodiment of the present invention, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition is below 37,000 cP (20ºC)

In another embodiment of the present invention, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition is from 12,000 to 20,000 centipoise (20ºC).

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also include water.

The pH value of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is from 5.5 to 11.4.

Another aspect of the invention is a process for preparing the cosmetic composition of the present invention, comprising step a) mixing the components with water and step b) mixing to obtain a homogeneous solution.

The use of the cosmetic composition of the invention for cleansing the skin and/or hair is also part of the invention.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition is used to cleanse the hair.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a cosmetic composition comprising:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

- (b) one or more nonionic surfactants, where the nonionic surfactant preferably includes a fatty alcohol;

- (c) amphoteric surfactant

where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably from 7:1 to 3:1, more preferably from 6:1 to 4:1;

and where the molar ratio between component (a), component (b) and component (c) is 90:5:5-70:5:25, preferably from 70:5:25 to 45:7:48

used to cleanse hair.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition is used for shaving foams.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a cosmetic composition comprising:

- (a) one or more ester carboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I)

- (b) one or more nonionic surfactants, where the nonionic surfactant includes a fatty alcohol;

- (c) amphoteric surfactant

where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 8:1 to 2:1, preferably from 7:1 to 3:1, more preferably from 6:1 to 4:1;

and where the molar ratio between component (a), component (b) and component (c) is from 89:6:5 to 38:15:47, preferably from 82:8:10 to 60:10:30 is used for foams for shaving.

A method for cleansing skin and/or hair, wherein the method includes the steps of moisturizing or wetting the skin and/or hair, applying a sufficient amount of the cosmetic composition of the invention to the skin and/or hair, and rinsing the skin and/or hair with water.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used in skin and/or hair cleansing compositions, hair coloring compositions and hair removal compositions. Without being limited to the list below, skin and hair cleansers comprising a cosmetic composition may be in the form of liquid soaps, shampoos, shaving foams, facial cleansers, bath and shower gels, bath foams, shower gels or wash. or creams.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition is used to cleanse the skin and/or hair.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition is used to cleanse the hair. In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition is used to cleanse the skin. In a further embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is used in shaving foams.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is used for a hair coloring composition. In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition is used in hair removal compositions.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also include oil components, silicone compounds, powders, additional non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, polymers, metal-ionic coupling agents, UV protection factors, vitamins, antioxidants, auxiliary antioxidants, perfume oils. , microbial inhibitors and the like as additional auxiliaries and additives.

Examples of oils include liquid oils, solid oils, waxes, hydrocarbon oils, and synthetic ester oils. Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols containing from 6 to 22 and preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids and linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6- С22 карбоновых кислот и линейных С6-С22 жирных спиртов, таких как, например, миристилмиристат, миристилпальмитат, миристилстеарат, миристилизостеарат, миристилолеат, миристилбегенат, миристилэрукат, цетилмиристат, цетилпальмитат, цетилстеарат, цетилизостеарат, цетилолеат, цетилбегенат, цетилэрукат, стеарилмиристат, стеарилпальмитат, стеарилстеарат, стеарилизостеарат, стеарилолеат, стеарилбегенат, стеарилэрукат, изостеарилмиристат, изопропилмиристат, изостеарилпальмитат, изостеарилстеарат, изостеарилизостеарат, изостеарилолеат, изостеарилбегенат, изостеарилолеат, олеилмиристат, олеилпальмитат, олеилстеарат, олеилизостеарат, олеилолеат, олеилбегенат, олеилэрукат, бегенилмиристат, бегенилпальмитат, бегенилстеарат, бег enyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl cleate, erucyl behenate, and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids and branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and linear or branched _C6 - _C22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids and polyhydric alcohols, e.g. propylene glycol, dimeric diol or trimeric triol, and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-C10 fatty acids, mixtures of liquid mono-/di-/triglycerides based on C6-C18 fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and /or Guerbet alcohols and aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C6-C12 dicarboxylic acids and linear or branched alcohols containing 1-22 carbon atoms, or polyols containing 2-10 carbon atoms and 2-6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils such as avocado oil, almond oil, hazelnut oil, babassu palm oil, borage oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, canola oil, hemp oil, soybean oil, milk thistle oil, safflower oil, earth almond oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, black cumin oil, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, walnut oil, olive oil, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, carbonates of linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, carbonates of Guerbet alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and linear and/or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols, linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6-22 carbon atoms per an alkyl group, esters of ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acids and polyols, silicone oils and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for example dialkylcyclohexanes.

Examples of waxes include natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugarcane wax, urikuri wax, mountain wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti wax, lanolin (wool wax), smoked fat, ceresin, ozocerite (mineral wax), petroleum jelly, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as, for example, montane ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes

Examples of hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, squalane, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, petrolatum, and microcrystalline wax.

Suitable organosilicon compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones, and organosilicon compounds modified with an amino group, fatty acids, alcohols, polyesters, epoxy, fluorine, a glycosidic residue and/or alkyl, which can be either liquid or liquid at room temperature. resinous. Preferred silicone compounds are hydrophobic silicone oils, which are silicone oils soluble in paraffin oil at 25°C. Hydrophobic silicone oils for use in accordance with the present invention include both volatile and non-volatile silicone oils. Specific examples include cyclic methyl siloxane having the formula {(CH3)2SiO} _x in which x has a value of 3-6 or short chain linear methyl siloxanes having the formula ((CH3) ₂ SiO{(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO} _y Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ in which y has a value of 0-5.

Some suitable cyclic methylsiloxanes are hexamethylcyclotrisiloxanes (D3), solids with a boiling point of 134°C and the formula {(Me ₂ )SiO} ₃ ; octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) with a boiling point of 176°C, a viscosity of 2.3 mm ² /sec, and the formula {(Me ₂ )SiO} ₄ ; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) (cyclomethicone) with a boiling point of 210°C, a viscosity of 3.87 mm ² /sec and the formula {(Me ₂ ) SiO} ₅ ; and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (DE) with a boiling point of 245°C, a viscosity of 6.62 mm ² /sec and the formula {(Me ₂ )SiO} ₆ .

Also suitable are some short linear chain methylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane (MM) with a boiling point of 100°C, a viscosity of 0-65 mm ² /s and the formula Me ₃ SiOMe ₃ ; octamethyltrisiloxane (MDM) with a boiling point of 152°C, a viscosity of 1.04 mm ² /s and the formula Me ₃ SiOMe ₂ SiOSiMe ₃ ; decamethyltetrasiloxane (MD2M) with a boiling point of 194°C, a viscosity of 1.53 mm ² /sec and the formula Me ₃ SiO(MeSiO) ₂ SiMe ₃ ; dodecamethylpentasiloxane (MD3M) with a boiling point of 229°C, a viscosity of 2.06 mm ² /sec and the formula Me ₃ SiO(Me ₂ SiO) ₃ SiMe ₃ ; tetradecamethylhexasiloxane (MD4M) with a boiling point of 245°C, a viscosity of 2.63 mm ² /sec and the formula Me ₃ SiO(Me ₂ SiO) ₄ SiMe ₃ ; and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane (MD5M) with a boiling point of 270°C, a viscosity of 3.24 mm ² /s and the formula Me ₃ SiO(Me ₂ SiO) ₅ SiMe ₃ .

In addition, long chain linear siloxanes such as phenyl trimethicone, bis(phenylpropyl) dimethicone, dimethicone and dimethiconol are also included.

Examples of powders include inorganic powders such as talc, kaolin, mica, sericite, muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, lepidolite, biotite, vermiculite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, tungstate, magnesium, silicon, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluoroapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, metal soaps (for example, zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, and aluminum stearate), and boron nitride; organic powders such as polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer resin powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, poly(tetrafluoroethylene) powder, and cellulose powder; inorganic white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide; inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (iron oxide red) and iron titanate; inorganic brown pigments such as γ-iron oxide; yellow inorganic pigments such as iron oxide yellow and brownish yellow; black inorganic pigments such as black iron oxide and lower oxidation state titanium oxide; inorganic violet pigments such as mango violet and cobalt violet; inorganic green pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, and cobalt titanate; inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and Prussian blue; pearl pigments such as titanium oxide coated mica, titanium oxide coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coated talc, titanium oxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride and flake flakes; metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder; organic pigments such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lacquers (e.g. organic pigments such as Red No.201, Red No.202, Red No.204, Red No.205 Red No.220, Red No.226, Red No. .228, Red No.405, Orange No.203, Orange No.204, Yellow No.205, Yellow No.401, and Blue No.404 or Red No.3, Red No.104, Red No.106, Red No.227, Red No.230, Red No.401, Red No.505, Orange No.205, Yellow No.4, Yellow No.5, Yellow No.202, Yellow No.203, Green No.3, and blue No.1); and natural color pigments such as chlorophyll and β-carotene.

Examples of lipophilic nonionic surfactants include sorbitan fatty acid esters (eg, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitans sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, diglycerol sorbitan penta-2-ethylhexylate, and diglycerol sorbitan tetra-2-ethylhexylate); esters of fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerols (for example, ester of glycerol and cottonseed oil fatty acids, glycerol monoerucate, glycerol sesquioleate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol-α, α'-oleate pyroglutamate and glycerol monostearate malate); esters of propylene glycol and fatty acids (such as propylene glycol monostearate); hardened castor oil derivatives; and alkyl esters of glycerol.

Examples of hydrophilic nonionic surfactants include POE sorbitan fatty acid esters (eg POE sorbitan monooleate, POE sorbitan monostearate and POE sorbitan tetraoleate); esters of POE sorbitol and fatty acids (such as POE sorbitol monolaurate, POE sorbitol monooleate, POE sorbitol pentaoleate and POE sorbitol monostearate); esters of POE-glycerol and fatty acids (for example, POE monooleates, POE-glycerol monostearate, POE-glycerol monoisostearate and POE-glycerol triisostearate); esters of POE fatty acids (such as POE distearate, POE monodioleate and ethylene glycol distearate); POE alkyl ethers (such as POE lauryl ether, POE oleyl ether, POE stearyl ether, POE behenyl ether, POE 2-octyl dodecyl ether and POE cholestanol ether); Pluronic type surfactants (eg Pluronic); POE/POP alkyl ethers (such as POE/POP cetyl ether, POE/POP 2-decyltetradecyl ether, POE/POP monobutyl ether, POE/POP hydrogenated lanolin, and POE/POP glycerol ether); tetra POE/tetra POP-ethylenediamine condensates (eg TETRONIC); POE-castor oil or hardened castor oil derivatives (e.g., POE-castor oil, POE-hardened castor oil, POE-hardened castor oil monoisostearate, POE-hardened castor oil triisostearate, POE-hardened castor oil diester monopyroglutamate monoisostearate, and POE-maleate hardened castor oil); lanolin derivatives of POE beeswax (eg POE sorbitol beeswax); alkanolamides (such as coconut oil fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric acid monoethanolamide and fatty acid isopropanolamide); esters of fatty acids and POE-propylene glycol; POE-alkylamines; POE fatty acid amides; esters of sucrose and fatty acids; oxides of alkylethoxydimethylamine; and trioleyl phosphate.

Examples of anionic surfactants are, for example, alkyl sulfates (such as C6-C22 alkyl sulfates, metal salts of said C6-C22 alkyl sulfates, as well as ammonium salts or salts of organic amines with alkyl or hydroxyalkyl substituents), surfactant-type alkyl ether sulfate (for example, C6-C22 alkyl ether sulfates containing 0.5 to 5, preferably 0.8 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of C6-C22 alkyl ether sulfate, metal salts of said C6-C22 alkyl ether sulfates as organic ammonium salts amines with alkyl or hydroxyalkyl substituents examples are sodium lauryl ether sulfate, potassium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate and mono-, di- and triethylethanolamine lauryl ether sulfates containing from 0.8 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl ether sulfate or their mixtures). Anionic surfactants of the sulfosuccinate type are also possible examples, including alkyl C6-C22 sulfosuccinates and alkyl C6-C22 ether sulfosuccinates, preferably mono- and dialkyl C6-C22 sulfosuccinates and mono- and dialkyl C6-C22 ether sulfosuccinates containing from 0.5 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl (e.g. mono- or dialkyl) C6-C22 ether sulfosuccinate or mixtures thereof, it being possible to use metal salts of said mono- and di-alkyl C6-C22 sulfosuccinates and mono- and dialkyl C6-C22 ether sulfosuccinates, and also ammonium salts or organic amine salts with alkyl or hydroxyalkyl substituents.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, hydroxyethyl cellulose quat, obtained from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR 400, cationic starch, diallyl ammonium salt-acrylamide copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole quat polymers, such as, for example , Luviquat (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolysate of collagen, quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine ( Cartaretine, Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid and dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, polyquaternium-type polymers, polyaminopolyamides and its cross-linked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally o in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, e.g. dibromobutane, with bis-dialkylamines, e.g. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as e.g. Jaguar CBS, Jaguar C-17, Jaguar C-16 Celanese, quaternized ammonium salts of polymers such as, for example, Mirapol A-15, Mirapol AD-1, Mirapol AZ-1 from Mirapol.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, non-crosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids. , acrylamide propyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methyl methacrylate/tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers, and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.

Examples of UV protection factors include organic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline substances at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and releasing the absorbed energy as longer wavelength radiation, such as heat. UV-B filters can be oil or water soluble. The following are examples of fat-soluble substances: 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and their derivatives, for example 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ether, 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-amyl ester; esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene); esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester; benzophenone derivatives, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzobenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester; triazine derivatives such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and octyl triazone; propane-1,3-diones such as, for example, 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4T-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione; 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkyl ammonium, alkanolammonium and gluc-ammonium salts; sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; 3-benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid derivatives such as, for example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)-sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, benzoylmethane derivatives such as, for example, 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) or 1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.

The UV-A and UV-B filters can, of course, also be used as mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments can also be used for this purpose, i. e. finely dispersed metal oxides or salts. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, as well as oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate can be used as salts. Oxides and salts are used as skin care pigments and in emulsions for skin protection and color cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably 5 to 50 nm and even more preferably 15 to 30 nm. They may be spherical in shape, but ellipsoidal particles or other non-spherical particles may also be used. The pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides such as, for example, Titandioxid T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobically coated materials are primarily silicones and especially trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. So-called micro or nano pigments are preferably used in sun protection products. Preferably fine zinc oxide is used.

In addition to the above two groups of primary protection factors, secondary protection factors such as antioxidants can also be used. Secondary sun protection factors such as antioxidants interrupt the photochemical chain reaction that is initiated when UV rays penetrate the skin. Typical examples of suitable antioxidants are amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid); aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil, and other thiols (e.g., thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine, and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl, lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl, and glyceryl complexes esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) at very low compatible doses (also (metal)chelators (e.g. (α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acids, bile acids, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and their derivatives (for example, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and its derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and benzoin coniferyl benzoate, rutic acid and its derivatives, (α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene sorbitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiaretic resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives ( e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substances suitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, esters, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

Examples of metal ion exfoliating agents include 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid 4Na salt, disodium edetate, trisodium edetate, tetrasodium edetate, sodium citrate, sodium polyphosphate, metaphosphate sodium, gluconic acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, succinic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and trisodium hydroxyethylethylenediamine triacetate.

Examples of vitamins include vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C, and E and their derivatives; pantothenic acid and its derivatives; and biotin.

Examples of antioxidants include tocopherols, dibutylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, and gallic acid esters. Examples of antioxidant acids include phosphoric acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, lactic acid, fumaric acid, cephalin, hexametaphosphates, phytic acid, and ethylenediaminotetraacetic acid.

Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances include extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruit (anise, coriander, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot , lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calamus), trees (pine, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedar, rosewood), herbs and cereals (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opoponox). Cosmetic raw materials of animal origin, such as civet and beaver, can also be used. Typical synthetic perfume substances are esters and ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbon compounds. Examples of ester-type perfumes are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbonyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, stearyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and aldehydes include, for example, linear alkanals of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, filament, and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are ionones, α-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. Hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferable to use mixtures of different fragrances which together have a pleasant aroma. Other suitable perfume oils are fragrance oils with relatively low volatility, which are primarily used as perfumes. Examples are sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, peppermint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. The following are substances preferably used either alone or as mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamic aldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione , Sandelis, Citrus Oils, Mandarin Oil, Orange Oil, Allyl Amyl Glycolate, Cyclovertal, Lavandin Oil, Clary Sage Oil, β-Damascenone, Bourbon Geranium Oil, Cyclohexyl Salicylate, Vertofix Coeur (Vertofix-Coeur), Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein Gamma, Phenylacetic Acid, Geranyl Acetate, Benzyl Acetate, Rosenoxide, Romillate, Irotil, and Florate.

Typical examples of microbial inhibitors are preservatives that act directly against Gram-positive bacteria, such as, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, chlorhexidine (1,6-di-(4-chlorophenyl-biguanidino) -hexane) or TCC (3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide). Numerous fragrances and essential oils also have antimicrobial properties. Typical examples are the active substances eugenol, menthol and thymol in clove, mint and thyme oil.

The following examples are provided to provide a reasonably clear and complete explanation of the present invention to those skilled in the art, but should not be construed as limiting the essential aspects of the subject matter of the invention as set forth in the preceding parts of this specification.

Examples:

The first part of the "Examples" section corresponds to the preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

The second part of the "Examples" section refers to the properties of the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

Example 1

Preparation of composition A (comparative)

417 g of ethoxylate (Kalcol 2465+2.5 mol of ethylene oxide) were charged into the reactor and heated to 72° C. with stirring. Then 1.4 g of water was added.

233 g of sodium monochloroacetate and 88 g of sodium hydroxide were added over 5 hours so that the temperature was maintained at 72±4°C. After completion of the reaction, the mixture was treated with 800 g of water and 243 g of hydrochloric acid (30% solution in water) for neutralization at 95°C. Stirring was stopped at 95°C to separate the phases. After 1 hour separation, the aqueous layer was decanted to give the carboxylic acid ester (upper layer).

Preparation of composition B (according to the invention)

417 g of ethoxylate (Kalcol 2465+2.5 mol of ethylene oxide) were charged into the reactor and heated to 72° C. with stirring. Then 1.4 g of water was added.

233 g of sodium monochloroacetate and 88 g of sodium hydroxide were added over 5 hours so that the temperature was maintained at 72±4°C. After completion of the reaction, the mixture was treated with 800 g of water and 243 g of hydrochloric acid (30% solution in water) for neutralization at 95°C. Stirring was stopped at 95°C to separate the phases. After 1 hour separation, the aqueous layer was decanted to give the carboxylic acid ester (upper layer).

336 g of water were placed in the reactor; 26.6 g of potassium hydroxide (50% solution in water) was added with stirring and the alkaline solution was heated to 65-70°C. Then, 100 g of the product described above was added with stirring. The mixture was stirred at 65-70°C for 2 hours.

Table 1 shows the analytical data on the content of the compositions.

The content of estercarboxylic acid (EC) was determined by potentiometric analysis of alkaline Upton using titrant hyamine 1622 as the cationic organic salt. The samples were dissolved in a mixture of water, methanol and chloroform.

Composition A was saponified to determine, by difference, the carboxylic acid ester content. The ester content was determined from the difference between alkaline Upton and alkaline Upton after saponification.

The content of the nonionic substance was determined by the difference between the theoretical alkaline Upton, if the reaction proceeded at 100% conversion, and the determined experimental alkaline Upton. The content of nonionic substances was obtained by the difference with the amount of carboxylic acid ester.

Table 1 shows the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) and the content of the carboxylic acid ester (d):

Table 1:

molar ratio (a):(b) % wt. (d) Composition A 30:1 15.6 Composition B 5:1 0.6

*mass: in relation to the total active mass of the sum of (a), (b) and (d)

Example 2:

The characteristics of the cosmetic compositions obtained in the Example are presented in Table 2 below.

Table 2:

Foam consistency [g] Creamy foam
[1-5] Composition A 3.6 3.7 Composition B 4.8 4.3

Foam consistency was determined using a TA.XTPlus texture analyzer (cylindrical aluminum probe 20 mm in diameter). Foam was created by hand washing Caucasian hair wess of approximately 10 g and a length of 22 cm with a sample prepared at 4% concentration and pH=5.5. The tress was washed with tap water with a water hardness of approximately 20ºF. The foam obtained by washing the weed by hand was collected in a glass container with a diameter of 45 mm, and the foam consistency value was obtained 10 seconds after the start of the measurement.

The creaminess of the foam of the samples was determined by an organoleptic study conducted by a panel of 6 experts washing a white hair weft of approximately 10 g and 22 cm in length with a sample prepared at a concentration of 1.5% and pH=5.5. The tress was washed with tap water with a hardness of approximately 20ºf. Organoleptic evaluation was given using a reference sample, and a comparative evaluation was carried out in accordance with the following criteria:

1: much lower performance than the reference sample

2: performance is lower than that of the reference sample

3: reference sample

4: better performance than the reference sample

5: much better performance than the reference sample

The composition according to the invention has better foam consistency and foam creaminess.

Claims (33)

1. Cosmetic composition for cleansing hair and/or skin, including: (a) one or more estercarboxylic acids or their cosmetically acceptable salts of formula (I) R ₁ -O-(CH ₂ -CH(R ₂ )-O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOH (I), where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3; (b) a nonionic surfactant comprising a fatty alcohol of formula (III) R ₃ -O-(CH ₂ -CH(R ₄ )O) _p -(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q -H (III), where R ₃ represents a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₄ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 3; where the composition further comprises component (d), which is an ester of a fatty acid of formula (IV) R ₁ -O-(CH ₂ -CH(R ₂ )-O) _n (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m -CH ₂ COOR ₅ (IV), where R ₁ represents an alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain; R ₅ is an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 12 to 16 carbon atoms; where R ₃ represents an alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, n and m independently represent an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3; p and q are independently an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of p+q is from 0 to 3; and where the amount of (d) is less than 1% of the mass. in relation to the total active mass of the sum of (a), (b) and (d); and where the molar ratio between components (a) and (b) is from 6:1 to 4:1. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition further comprises (c) an amphoteric surfactant. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, where the cosmetic composition includes: - from 27 to 90%, preferably from 35 to 85% of component (a), - 3 to 15%, preferably 5 to 10% of component (b), - from 5 to 70%, preferably from 10 to 60% of component (c), each of these amounts is expressed as a percentage by weight of said component relative to the total active weight of the sum of (a), (b) and (c). 4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-3, characterized in that the composition additionally includes a component (e), which is an electrolyte. 5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-4, characterized in that the percentage of the active substance, including at least (a) an ester carboxylic acid or its salt of formula (I), and (b) a nonionic surfactant, is more than 50% of the cosmetic composition. 6. The method of obtaining a cosmetic composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5, including at least the following stages: i. alkoxylation of a fatty alcohol having a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having 12 to 16 carbon atoms to obtain a mixture containing the alkoxylated fatty alcohol represented by formula (II):

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; R ₂ is a C ₁ -C ₃ straight or branched alkyl chain, n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 3, and where the sum of m+n is from 1 to 3; ii. carboxymethylation of the mixture obtained in step i) comprising at least an alkoxylated alcohol and its alkoxides with C2-C5 chlorocarboxylic acid; and iii. hydrolysis of the carboxylic acid ester obtained as a by-product in step ii) by a saponification reaction. 7. The method of obtaining a cosmetic composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5, including stages: i. mixing components (a)-(d), as defined in paragraph 1, with water; ii. stirring until a homogeneous solution is obtained. 8. The use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5 for skin and/or hair cleansing. 9. A method of cleansing the skin and/or hair, including the steps of moisturizing or wetting the skin and/or hair, applying a sufficient amount of the composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5 on the skin and/or hair, followed by rinsing. 10. The use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5 for skin cleansing. 11. The use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5 for hair cleansing. 12. The use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5 in shaving foam.