RU2618428C1 - Complex cosmetic product - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: chemistry.

SUBSTANCE: invention refers to the field of cosmetology and represents a complex cosmetic product including destructurized hyaluronic acid and cream base and characterized by the fact that destructurized hyaluronic acid has amphiphilic form and the cosmetic product contains dehydroepiandrosterone and microelement complex including zinc, selenium, silicon, copper in equal quantities and the product ingredients are contained in a certain ratio in wt.%.

EFFECT: invention provides for enhanced penetrating ability of active ingredients and intensified cosmetic effects of use, namely, improved results of moisture metering, elastometry, profilometry and also better hair and nail condition.

3 ex, 2 tbl, 1 dwg

Description

The invention relates to cosmetology, namely to the creation of cosmetics with anti-aging effect and lifting effect.

Currently, thanks to the development of regenerative medicine and bioengineering, agents based on biologically active substances that regulate biological aging processes, such as dehydroepiadrosterone (DHEA), have been developed. Numerous studies have shown that the peak of DHEA secretion in the body occurs at the age of 25, and then its concentration decreases by 3% per year as the age increases. A number of scientific papers have shown that DHEA has a beneficial effect on metabolic and immunological processes in the body (Goncharov N.P., Katsiya G.V., 2012).

Creams were developed on the basis of DHEA, the use of which allows this substance to enter the body and provide biological effects (Goncharov N.P., Katsiya G.V., 2012).

Recently, in cosmetology, the direction of developing new cosmetics based on hyaluronic acid (HA), which has been modified in various ways to enhance its penetration into the skin to achieve the most pronounced aesthetic result, has been actively developing.

However, the complex use of DHEA and gamma-processed HA in aesthetic medicine and cosmetology is not described in the literature.

Known anti-aging cream based on the precursor of dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) DHEA-PHYTO Cream and cream with lipoic acid and vitamins A, C, E Re-Nutriv ACE Lipoic Complex from Skin Tech (USA) (see http://vallexm.ru/ files / age_skin.pdf). Anti-aging cream with phyto-DHEA DHEA-PHYTO is intended for skin care after 45 years as a means of preventing and correcting age-related skin changes, accompanied by: ptosis of soft tissues, disturbance and deformation of the oval of the face, signs of photoaging of the face, neck and decollete, dryness and thinning skin, multiple small wrinkles. This cream is also used as a pre-peeling preparation and post-peeling rehabilitation after chemical peels, laser resurfacing, exposure to IPL light to enhance the lifting effect. The cream contains wild yam root extract (the active ingredient is diosgenin, steroid glycoside is the plant precursor of progesterone), ceramide III (integrates into the lipid barrier, restoring its integrity), glycyrrhetinic acid (normalizes salt metabolism in the skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect), natural moisturizing factor (NUF), PFPE (perfluoropolyether).

However, the combination of additional steroidal macromolecules in the formulation of this cosmetic product leads to a decrease in the degree of penetration of DHEA by the competitive mechanism of homogeneous macromolecules. In addition, the multicomponent formulation of the analogue does not allow to fully realize the hydrating effect of the natural moisturizing factor (NUF).

The prototype of this invention is a comprehensive cosmetic product (Patent RU 2543651, publ. 03/10/2015). The complex cosmetic product includes degraded low molecular weight hyaluronic acid with a mass of 460-29 kDa, obtained under the influence of gamma radiation at a dose of 2 kGy, and matrix peptides. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, obtained as a result of gamma irradiation of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, leads to a significant decrease in the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid already at a dose of 2 kGy. Using gamma-processing of HA allows this molecule to penetrate into the deep skin layers and provide a pronounced cosmetic effect. The peptide complex in this composition stimulates the metabolic processes and the synthesis of its own hyaluronic acid in the skin.

However, the peptide complex of this drug stimulates only local metabolic processes in the field of application on the skin, which does not allow to achieve a long-term aesthetic effect.

In the prototype, the physiological role of the peptide complex is not characterized, only the chemical formula and mass spectrometric parameters of the components are indicated.

Thus, the fundamental disadvantage of this complex cosmetic product is the short-term action of hyaluronic acid and the peptide complex, as a result of which the aesthetic result of using the prototype product is insignificant.

The technical result of the proposed complex cosmetic product is to increase the penetrating ability of the active components (DHEA and HA) and enhance the cosmetic effects of the application, namely the improvement of moisture measurement, elastometry, profilometry, as well as the condition of hair and nails - the fragility of nails disappears, the condition of the nail plate and its colors.

The problem is solved in that in a complex cosmetic product, including degraded hyaluronic acid and a cream base, degraded hyaluronic acid of amphiphilic form, and the cosmetic product contains dehydroepiandrosterone and a trace element complex - zinc Zn, selenium Se, silicon Si, copper Cu in equal amounts: ratio of components (wt.%):

Degraded hyaluronic amphiphilic acid 0.5-3.0 Dehydroepiandrosterone 0.025-0.1 Trace element complex Zn, Se, Si, Cu in equal amounts 0.001-0.01 Cream base rest

Amphiphilic form with hydrophilic and hydrophobic domains is used as a degraded hyaluronic acid. The hydrophobic domain can be represented by saturated fatty acids with an alkyl chain from C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ (lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic acids) or unsaturated fatty acids with one or more unsaturated bonds, with an alkyl chain from C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ (palmitoleic, oleic, linoleic acid). The hydrophilic domain is formed by ionic compounds - carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, phosphate, phosphonate or ammonium ion.

The presence in the formulation of a complex cosmetic product DHEA gives this tool a general stimulating effect of application with improved metabolic processes. DHEA is considered a buffered steroid. Unlike all other steroids, specific receptors for DHEA are not identified. Its biological effect has a wide range, but to a greater extent DHEA is responsible for enhancing the processes against the manifestation of biological aging of the body (wrinkles, hair condition, etc.). With age, the physiological production of DHEA in the body decreases by an average of 3% per year (Goncharov N.P., Katsiya G.V., 2012). An age-related decrease in DHEA levels suggests that it is closely related to the aging process (one can determine the chronological age of a person by the concentration of DHEA in blood plasma). DHEA replacement therapy has a prophylactic and therapeutic effect with age-related pathology that affects the condition of the skin. It was noted that when using DHEA, the lipid profile improves and the protective effect in the development of atherosclerosis, osteoporosis appears, the immune system is modulated in the elderly (Goncharov N.P., Katsiya G.V., 2012).

The drawing shows the normalized IR spectra of the samples of a complex cosmetic product (NS26) and a mixture of degraded amphiphilic hyaluronic acid, a trace element complex (Zn, Se, Si, Cu) and DHEA (NS25).

A comprehensive cosmetic product is prepared as follows.

Stage 1. "Obtaining an amphiphilic form of degraded hyaluronic acid."

As a basis, hyaluronic acid is used, which is degraded under the influence of gamma radiation at a dose of 2 kGy, then its amphiphilic form is obtained. For this, a mixture is prepared of a 0.5-3% solution of hyaluronic acid (any molecular weight), 0.5-1.0% solution of palmitic acid and a 0.5-1.0% solution of sodium sulfate. Using a laboratory blender, this mixture is stirred for 1 minute in the mode of 1500-3500 rpm, the resulting mixture is poured into a horizontal cuvette of the electrophoresis apparatus, an electric current with a voltage of 500 mV, a current of 25 mA is supplied to the electrodes for 5 hours. After the specified time, the supernatant solution is drained, which is a 0.5-3% solution of the amphiphilic form of the degraded hyaluronic acid.

Stage 2. "Thermal homogenization, cooling." Subsequently, 1-10 mg of the trace element complex (Zn, Se, Si, Cu) in bioactive form and 25-100 mg of DHEA are added to the viscous solution of the amphiphilic form of the degraded hyaluronic acid. The mixture is heated to 40 ° C for 1 hour on a laboratory blender with a thermocase, after which thermal homogenization (5000 rpm) is carried out for 5-10 minutes, the resulting solution is cooled at room temperature for 2-3 hours. The result is an active component of a comprehensive cosmetic product.

Stage 3. "Prescription mixing of the components." The active ingredient obtained in the step is added to the cream cosmetic base in a concentration range from 0.05 to 5 wt.%.

For an example of a specific implementation, three compositions of a complex cosmetic product were obtained by the above method.

Example 1

Degraded hyaluronic amphiphilic acid 0.5 Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) 0,025 Trace element complex (Zn, Se, Si, Cu in equal proportions) 0.001 Cream base rest

Example 2

Degraded hyaluronic amphiphilic acid 1.75 Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) 0.0625 Trace element complex (Zn, Se, Si, Cu in equal proportions) 0.0055 Cream base rest

Example 3

Degraded hyaluronic amphiphilic acid 3.0 Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) 0.1 Trace element complex (Zn, Se, Si, Cu in equal proportions) 0.01 Cream base rest

Samples of the obtained complex cosmetic product (NS25) and the same mixture of gamma-processed hyaluronic acid, trace element complex (Zn, Se, Si, Cu) and DHEA (NS26) were studied using IR spectroscopy.

As can be seen from the graph, the technology for obtaining the developed integrated cosmetic product leads to a change in the intensity of the IR spectra, which indicates the formation of new conformational, stearic or chemical bonds during the technological impact that determine the biological effects of skin rejuvenation.

Under experimental conditions, an analysis of the penetration of the active components of a complex cosmetic product through the skin of laboratory animals was carried out.

When conducting animal experiments, they complied with the requirements of Articles 11 and 15 of the Federal Law of the Russian Federation “On the Protection of Animals from Cruel Treatment” of 12/01/1999).

2 groups of experimental animals were allocated (experimental — using the developed complex cosmetology tool, 20 rats, and the control — using hyaluronic acid, 20 rats).

The skin of laboratory animals was shaved on the lumbar region in a 2 by 3 cm section; applied followed by rubbing 1 ml of the investigated mixtures of substances in the experimental and control groups.

During the observation period (6 months), the concentration of DHEA in the peripheral blood of animals was monitored. The results are presented in table. one.

As can be seen from the table, in the control group DHEA is practically not determined, which is consistent with the literature data. For example, N.P. Goncharov (2012) describes the presence of DHEA only in the brain tissue of rodents, while the adrenal glands practically do not synthesize DHEA. Consequently, the detected DHEA in the peripheral blood of the experimental group of animals indicates its exogenous origin (penetration of DHEA through the skin when treated with a complex cosmetic product).

Thus, DHEA of the proposed complex cosmetology formulation have high penetrating power.

Clinical studies of the effectiveness of complex cosmetic products in comparison with the prototype were conducted on the basis of cosmetic clinic No. 1 of Orenburg. The tests were performed in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 1.2.681-97 “Hygienic requirements for the production and safety of perfumes and cosmetics”, approved by Decree of the Chief State Sanitary Doctor of the Russian Federation of November 20, 1997 No. 26, as well as instructions for experimental and clinical testing of cosmetics, 1986. Developed personalized cosmetics are safe for human health, have no irritating and allergenic effects, which is confirmed by the sanitary-epidemiological conclusion and certificate of conformity PCT AYA-36.

In clinical trials of complex cosmetic products, 10 women aged 45 to 65 took part. The clinical trial period was 6 months.

The study included:

1) determination of the moisture measurement index using a SKINANALYZER analyzer manufactured by Gebrauchsanweisung Skin Analizer Softline (Germany);

2) elastometry was performed on a SKINELASTOMER EM 25 apparatus;

3) profilometry was studied on a VISIOSCAN VC98 apparatus manufactured by Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH (Germany);

4) assessment of the condition of hair and nails.

Evaluation was performed twice before and after the use of cosmetic products. The clinical status of the probands was evaluated with a frequency of observation once a week. The drugs were used in strict accordance with the instructions attached to them.

At the first stage of work, before the start of clinical testing, skin tests were performed on the skin of the inner surface of the forearm of the probands. In no case were signs of irritation observed.

The developed complex cosmetic products were prepared according to the indicated performance examples and were applied after preliminary cleansing of the skin of the face according to the standard method. Further, the studied preparations were applied in a dense and uniform layer. Within 5-6 minutes, complete absorption of applied cosmetics was noted.

The results of the tests for various ratios of components in examples 1, 2, 3 in comparison with the prototype are given in table. 2.

Thus, in comparison with the prototype, the proposed complex cosmetic product has an increased penetrating ability of the active components (DHEA and HA) and an enhanced cosmetic effect of application, namely, improved moisture metering, elastometry, profilometry, as well as the condition of hair and nails - brittle nails disappeared, improved condition of the nail plate and its color.

Analysis of clinical data and the results of instrumental clinical and laboratory studies in dynamics give reason to draw the following conclusions:

1) the developed complex cosmetic means has good organoleptic properties and with prolonged use does not have an irritating and allergic effect;

2) after the use of a complex cosmetic product during the entire observation period, all patients gave a high assessment of clinical effectiveness, while the skin of the face became more elastic, smooth and elastic, the complexion was leveled and in all cases it acquired a healthy, well-groomed appearance. Improvement of the condition of hair and nails was noted, fragility of nails disappeared, the condition of the nail plate and its color improved;

3) after the application of the developed means, the moisture meter increased on average by 20-25%, which indicates its pronounced moisturizing effect;

4) the skin elasticity index increased by an average of 30-40%, which may indicate an increase in skin elasticity.

Claims (2)

A complex cosmetic product, including degraded hyaluronic acid and a cream base, characterized in that the degraded hyaluronic acid is amphiphilic, and the cosmetic product contains dehydroepiandrosterone and a trace element complex - zinc Zn, selenium Se, silicon Si, copper Cu in equal amounts, with the following amounts ratio of components (wt.%): Degraded hyaluronic amphiphilic acid 0.5-3.0 Dehydroepiandrosterone 0.025-0.1 Trace element complex Zn, Se, Si, Cu in equal amounts 0.001-0.01 Cream base rest

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