RU2640906C1 - Tint dye for hair - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: dye includes henna, colourless henna, basma or a mixture thereof in the amount of 0.1-55 wt % as a filler; xanthan gum or hydroethoxycellulose in an amount of 0.1-4 wt % as a gelling agent; a solvent in an amount of 0.1-30 wt %; direct non-ionic nitro dyes, main direct cationic dyes, acidic direct anionic dyes or a mixture thereof in an amount of 0.1-7 wt % as a dye; preservatives in an amount of 0.1-1 wt %; functional additives in an amount of 0.1-10 wt %; and water in an amount of up to 100 wt %. In addition, the dye may comprise glycerol monostearate, ceteareth 20, ceteareth 23-25, cetyl stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof as an emulsifier in an amount of up to 15 wt %.

EFFECT: homogeneous and uniform colouring, shading of gray hair.

4 cl, 14 ex

Description

   The invention relates to the perfumery and cosmetics industry, in particular to means for dyeing hair on a hydrocolloid or cream basis, including vegetable raw materials - henna, basma, colorless henna or a mixture thereof, synthetic direct-acting organic dyes, functional additives and preservatives, which allow to achieve a variety of shades hair, suitable also for gray hair. The tool can also be used to color eyebrows and eyelashes.

   Known hair coloring agents containing natural henna and / or basma, including colorless henna as a balsam (RU, 2176497, 10.12.2001, A61K 7/13), or tablet hair coloring agents containing dry henna and / or basma, mixed with powdered soap and green tea (SU, 648226, A61K 31/55, 04/05/1980).

   Powdered or granular hair dyeing agents are known that contain oxidative dyes from 1 to 10%, direct dyes (synthetic and natural) from 3 to 25%, oxidizing agents from 5 to 25%, henna is colorless, neutral (does not color hair) from 40 to 65% and other traditional additives (surfactants from 5 to 15%, antioxidants, buffers, polymers, thickeners, perfumes, etc.) [DE 19607220, 07/10/1997].

   Introduction to the recipe of plant materials up to 65%, including up to 25% of plant dyes, improves the consumer properties of the paint, but does not reduce the harmful effects of other chemical ingredients on the hair structure.

   A significant disadvantage of powdered hair dyes based on henna or basma is the inconvenience of use - the composition must be diluted with water and mixed thoroughly. Natural dyes are poorly distributed on the hair when applied at home, since plant materials swell slowly, the consistency is heterogeneous, lumps are formed. Improper preparation can lead to uneven hair coloring. In addition, the powder form does not make it possible to make natural extracts of plants and their oils, which generally reduces the consumer properties of the product.

   Known plant-based hair dye containing synthetic direct-acting organic dyes, functional additives and filler. [RU 2208431, A61K8 / 28, 07.20.2003]. As a vegetable coloring base, the paint contains henna natural or natural basma, or a mixture thereof. As a filler, use colorless henna or talc. As a functional additive, the paint contains sodium sulfate, or urea, inorganic and organic acids, hydroxides and salts to change the pH of the paint. As synthetic organic dyes, one or more nitro dyes, one or more triphenylmethane dyes, or a combination thereof are used.

To improve the consistency of the mixture, surfactants, or cellulose derivatives, or C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols and their derivatives are used as filler.

   The disadvantages of this paint are its instability, since it contains direct-acting dyes that do not react with the oxidizing agent, as well as poor gray hair coloring.

   The objective of the present invention is to provide a ready-to-apply homogeneous tint hair dye for hair without extraneous impurities on a hydrocolloid or cream base, which does not require preliminary dilution with water, or other solvents containing hydrogen peroxide or its donors, which is well distributed throughout the hair, giving a uniform and uniform coloring, which can be enriched with functional additives - plant extracts and oils, silicones, keratin, etc.

   In accordance with the invention, a tinting hair dye on a hydrocolloid or cream base is described containing water, as a filler, henna, colorless henna, red henna, basma or a mixture thereof, gelling agent, solvent, direct non-ionic nitro dyes, basic direct cationic dyes, acidic direct anionic dyes or their mixture, preservatives, functional additives, in the case of a cream-based paint, the paint further includes an emulsifier in the following ratio of components, wt .%:

     Filler 0.1-55;

     Gelling agent 0.1-4;

     The solvent is 0.1-30;

     Dye 0.1-7;

     Preservative 0.1-1;

     Functional additives 0-10;

     Emulsifier 0-15;

     Water up to 100.

   As a gelling agent, the paint contains xanthan gum, hydroethoxycellulose or its derivatives, propylene glycol, glycerin or a mixture thereof as a solvent, as direct nonionic nitro dyes HC Yellow5, HC Orange3, HC Blue2, HC Violet 1, 4-hydroxypropylamine-3-nitrophenol, N , N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, HC Blue3, HC Yellow2, as the main direct cationic dyes BASIC BLUE 99 / CI 56059, BASIC BROWN 16 / CI 12250, ACID VIOLET 43 / CI 60730, BASIC RED 76 / CI 12245, BASIC YELLOW 57 / CI 12719 (ARIANOR EBONY 306020), BASIC RED 51 (ARIANOR CHERRY RED 306008), BASIC RED 76 / CI 12245 (ARIANOR MADDER RED 306003), as sour direct anionic dyes ACID YELLOW 23, ACID VIOLET 43, ACID RED 92, ACID ORANGE 7, ACID YELLOW 3, ACID YELLOW 23, ACID RED 33, as a preservative methylchlorothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, as functional additives, plant extracts and oils, such as chamomile extract, aloe extract, lotus extract, nettle extract, burdock oil, linseed oil, argan oil, grape seed oil, olive oil, apricot oil, shea butter, vitamins such as D-panthenol, tocopherol acetate, retinolpalmitate, silicones , keratin, as an emulsifier mon glycerol ostearate, cetearet 20, cetearet 23-25, cetyl stearyl alcohol.

   The described hair dye may also contain guar gum as a gelling agent, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetonic acid, and benzyl alcohol as a preservative.

   Thanks to the action of the preserving system, the shelf life of the products is 24 months:

   Used in the range from 0.1 to 55% as a filler of henna, colorless henna and basma (or mixtures thereof) are strengthening components that reduce the harmful effects of the dye on hair, and also perform an additional useful function - conditioning hair treatment, which increases the volume and hair elasticity, gives them shine and antistatic effect.

   As functional additives, the paint may also contain coconut oil, calendula extract, hibiscus extract.

   The introduction of functional additives, possible due to the hydrocolloid or cream form of hair dye, improves the consumer properties of the final product. These components moisturize, nourish, soften the hair, give it shine, volume and silkiness.

   The following are examples illustrating the invention, but not limiting its scope.

1) Hydrocolloid based paint

Example 1

Mocha tone (direct non-ionic nitro dyes)

component name input% water up to 100 henna is colorless 25 propylene glycol 5 glycerol 5 xanthan gum 0.9 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 phenoxyethanol 0.8 NS Yellow5 0.3 NS Orange3 0.2 NS Blue2 2 NS Violet 1 0.5 burdock oil 0.1 linseed oil 0.1 Chamomile extract 0.1 D-panthenol 0.1

Example 2

Chocolate tone (basic cationic dyes)

component name input% water up to 100 henna 7 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 hydroethoxy cellulose 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 BASIC BLUE 99 / CI 56059, BASIC BROWN 16 / CI 12250, ACID VIOLET 43 / CI 60730, BASIC RED 76 / CI 12245, BASIC YELLOW 57 / CI 12719 (ARIANOR EBONY 306020)
0.1 BASIC RED 51 (ARIANOR CHERRY RED 306008) 0.2 BASIC RED 76 / CI 12245 (ARIANOR MADDER RED 306003) 0.2 argan oil 0.1 grape seed oil 0.1 Aloe extract 0.1 tocopherol acetate 0.1

Example 3

Chocolate tone (a mixture of basic direct cationic dyes and direct non-ionic nitro dyes)

component name input% water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 henna 7 xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 BASIC RED 51 (ARIANOR CHERRY RED 306008) 0.1 BASIC BLUE 99 0.2 NS Blue2 2 NS Blue3 1,2 4-hydroxypropylamine-3-nitrophenol 0.3 argan oil 0.1 Shea Butter 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Aloe extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 Tocopherol acetate 0.1

Example 4

Tone Dark Chocolate (direct non-ionic nitro dyes)

component name input% water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 basma 10 xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 4-hydroxypropylamine-3-nitrophenol 0.1 N, N’-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine 0.2 NS Blue2 2.5 NS Blue3 2 NS Orange3 0.3 grape seed oil 0.1 apricot oil 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Lotus extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 retinol palmitate 0.1

Example 5

Tone Copper (direct non-ionic nitro dyes)

component name input% specially purified water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 henna is colorless 10 xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 NS Yellow5 1,2 NS Orange3 0.5 NS Yellow2 0.3 peach oil 0.1 olive oil 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Nettle extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 D-panthenol 0.1

Example 6

Copper-red tone (direct non-ionic nitro dyes and acidic direct anionic dyes)

component name input% specially purified water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 henna is colorless 10 xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 NS Yellow5 1,2 NS Orange3 0.5 NS Yellow2 0.3 ACID YELLOW 23 0.3 ACID RED 33 0.2 peach oil 0.1 olive oil 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Nettle extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 D-panthenol 0.1

Example 7

Tone Copper Red (Acid Straight Anionic Dyes)

component name input% specially purified water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 henna is colorless 10 xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 ACID RED 92 0.2 ACID ORANGE 7 0.4 ACID YELLOW 3 0.3 ACID YELLOW 23 0.3 ACID RED 33 0.2 peach oil 0.1 olive oil 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Nettle extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 D-panthenol 0.1

Manufacturing technology

   The calculated amount of water, the calculated amount of henna powder, or basma, or colorless henna, or a mixture thereof, are loaded into the reactor with stirring. The mass is heated to T = 90-95 ° C, and then stirred at this temperature for 6 hours. Cool to T = 40 ° C.

   In a separate container, a mixture of glycerol and xanthan gum is prepared, which is fed into the reactor with stirring and homogenized for 15-20 min.

   A mixture of dyes is prepared in a separate container. The mixture is fed into the reactor and homogenized for 20-25 minutes.

   The mass is cooled to T = 20-25 ° C, after which the calculated amounts of phenoxyethanol, methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone or other preservatives, extracts, vitamins and oils and other functional additives are loaded into it. Homogenize for 20-30 minutes.

   The mass has the form of a viscous gel interspersed with particles of the raw materials used, dark in color depending on the combination of the dyes used.

   Get a ready-to-eat product that does not require prior preparation. After opening the package, the product is evenly applied along the entire length of dry or slightly damp hair. To obtain a light shade, the product is aged on the hair for 10 minutes, to obtain a more saturated color - 30 minutes. The result of staining depends on the original color and structure of the hair. Increasing the staining time leads to a darker color of the selected tone. After dyeing, the hair should be thoroughly washed with warm water without using shampoo.

   Depending on the combination of dyes, a variety of shades of hair can be achieved. To determine the color and color fastness, strands of natural hair were used, which were dyed in various shades and carried out multiple washings, after which the color was compared with a control sample. According to the resistance of staining, this paint belongs to tinting agents, it is washed off for 6-8 times. Good staining results were obtained on gray hair.

2) Cream based paint .

Example 1

Mocha tone (direct non-ionic nitro dyes)

component name input% water up to 100 henna is colorless 5 propylene glycol 5 glycerol 5 Ceteareth 20 2 Glycerol monostearate 2 Cetyl stearyl alcohol 3 xanthan gum 0.9 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 phenoxyethanol 0.8 NS Yellow5 0.3 NS Orange3 0.2 NS Blue2 2 NS Violet 1 0.5 burdock oil 0.1 linseed oil 0.1 Chamomile extract 0.1 D-panthenol 0.1

Example 2

Chocolate tone (basic cationic dyes)

component name input% water up to 100 henna 7 propylene glycol 2 Cetyl stearyl alcohol 2 Glycerol monostearate 2 Ceteareth 20 one glycerol 3 hydroethoxy cellulose 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 BASIC BLUE 99 / CI 56059, BASIC BROWN 16 / CI 12250, ACID VIOLET 43 / CI 60730, BASIC RED 76 / CI 12245, BASIC YELLOW 57 / CI 12719 (ARIANOR EBONY 306020)
0.1 BASIC RED 51 (ARIANOR CHERRY RED 306008) 0.2 BASIC RED 76 / CI 12245 (ARIANOR MADDER RED 306003) 0.2 argan oil 0.1 grape seed oil 0.1 Aloe extract 0.1 tocopherol acetate 0.1

Example 3

Chocolate tone (a mixture of basic direct cationic dyes and direct non-ionic nitro dyes)

component name input% water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 henna 7 Cetyl stearyl alcohol 3 Glycerol monostearate 2 Ceteareth 20 one xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 BASIC RED 51 (ARIANOR CHERRY RED 306008) 0.1 BASIC BLUE 99 0.2 NS Blue2 2 NS Blue3 1,2 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol 0.3 argan oil 0.1 Shea Butter 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Aloe extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 Tocopherol acetate 0.1

Example 4

Tone Dark Chocolate (direct non-ionic nitro dyes)

component name input% water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 basma 5 Cetyl stearyl alcohol 3 Glycerol monostearate 2 Ceteareth 25 one xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol 0.1 N, N’-bis (2-hydroxyethio) -2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine 0.2 NS Blue2 2.5 NS Blue3 2 NS Orange3 0.3 grape seed oil 0.1 apricot oil 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Lotus extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 Dretinol palmitate 0.1

Example 5

Tone Copper (direct non-ionic nitro dyes)

component name input% specially purified water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 henna is colorless four Cetyl stearyl alcohol 3 Glycerol monostearate 2 Ceteareth 25 one xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 NS Yellow5 1,2 NS Orange3 0.5 NS Yellow2 0.3 peach oil 0.1 olive oil 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Nettle extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 D-panthenol 0.1

Example 6

Copper-red tone (Acidic direct anionic dyes)

component name input% specially purified water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 henna is colorless four Cetyl stearyl alcohol 3 Glycerol monostearate 2 Ceteareth 25 one xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 ACID YELLOW 23 1,2 ACID VIOLET 43 0.5 ACID RED 92 0.3 peach oil 0.1 olive oil 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Nettle extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 D-panthenol 0.1

Example 7

Tone Copper Red (Acidic direct anionic dyes and nonionic nitro dyes)

component name input% specially purified water up to 100 propylene glycol 2 glycerol 3 henna is colorless four Cetyl stearyl alcohol 3 Glycerol monostearate 2 Ceteareth 25 one xanthan gum 0.1 methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1 ACID YELLOW 23 1,2 ACID VIOLET 43 0.5 NS Yellow2 0.3 peach oil 0.1 olive oil 0.1 dimethicone 0.1 Nettle extract 0.1 keratin 0.1 D-panthenol 0.1

Manufacturing technology

   The calculated amount of water, the calculated amount of henna powder, or basma, or colorless henna, or a mixture thereof, are loaded into the reactor with stirring. The mass is heated to T = 80-85 ° C, after which the calculated amounts of fatty alcohols and emulsifiers are loaded into the mass, namely glycerol monostearate, cetearet 23-25, cetearet 20, cetyl stearyl alcohol.

   After the fat components are melted, the mass is homogenized for 20-30 minutes and cooled to T = 40 ° C.

   In a separate container, a mixture of glycerol and hydroethoxycellulose is prepared. The mixture is fed into the reactor with stirring and homogenized for 15-20 minutes.

   A mixture of dyes is prepared in a separate container. The mixture is fed into the reactor and homogenized for 20-25 minutes. The mass is cooled to T = 20-25 ° C, after which the calculated amounts of phenoxyethanol, methylchlorothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone or other preservatives, extracts, vitamins and oils and other functional additives are loaded into it. Homogenize for 20-30 minutes. The mass has a creamy appearance with interspersed particles of the raw materials used, the color depends on the combination of the dyes used.

   Get a ready-to-eat product that does not require prior preparation. After opening the package, the product is evenly applied along the entire length of dry or slightly damp hair. To obtain a light shade, the product is aged on the hair for 10 minutes, to obtain a more saturated color - 30 minutes. The result of staining depends on the original color and structure of the hair. Increasing the staining time leads to a darker color of the selected tone. After dyeing, the hair should be thoroughly washed with warm water without using shampoo.

   Depending on the combination of dyes, a variety of shades of hair can be achieved. To determine the color and color fastness, strands of natural hair were used, which were dyed in various shades and carried out multiple washings, after which the color was compared with a control sample. According to the resistance of staining, this paint belongs to tinting agents, it is washed off for 6-8 times. Good staining results were obtained on gray hair.

Claims (5)

1. Hue hair dye containing water, as a filler, henna, colorless henna, basma or a mixture thereof, as a gelling agent xanthan gum or hydroethoxy cellulose, a solvent, direct non-ionic nitro dyes, basic direct cationic dyes, acid direct anionic dyes or their mixture, preservatives, functional additives in the following ratio of components, wt.%: Filler 0,1-55 Gelling agent 0.1-4 Solvent 0.1-30 Dye 0.1-7 Preservative 0.1-1 Functional Supplements 0,1-10 Water up to 100 2. Tinting hair dye according to claim 1, additionally containing as an emulsifier glycerol monostearate, cetearet 20, cetearet 23-25, cetyl stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof in an amount of up to 15 wt.%. 3. The hue hair dye according to claim 1 or 2, containing propylene glycol, glycerin or a mixture thereof as a solvent, as direct nonionic nitro dyes HC Yellow5, HC Orange3, HC Blue2, HC Violet 1, 4-hydroxypropylamine-3-nitrophenol, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, HC Blue3, HC Yellow2, as the main direct cationic dyes BASIC BLUE 99 / CI 56059, BASIC BROWN 16 / CI 12250, ACID VIOLET 43 / CI 60730, BASIC RED 76 / CI 12245, BASIC YELLOW 57 / CI 12719 (ARIANOR EBONY 306020), BASIC RED 51 (ARIANOR CHERRY RED 306008), BASIC RED 76 / CI 12245 (ARIANOR MADDER RED 306003), as anionic acid straight dyes ACID YELLOW 23, ACID VIOLET 43, ACID RED 92, ACID ORANGE 7, ACID YELLOW 3, ACID YELLOW 23, ACID RED 33, as a preservative, methylchlorothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, as functional additives, plant extracts, oils, vitamins, silicones, keratin. 4. The hue hair dye according to claim 3, containing chamomile extract, aloe extract, lotus extract, nettle extract, burdock oil, linseed oil, argan oil, grape seed oil, olive oil, apricot oil, as vegetable extracts and oils shea, as vitamins D-panthenol, tocopherol acetate, retinol palmitate.