RU2338514C1 - Cosmetic agent for prevention of ageing of skin - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine; cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: cosmetic agent contains following components, wt. %: a complex polyethyleneglycol extract of germs of wheat and soya 1-3, a complex of oleic extracts of roots wild yam and soya 1-3, an amino-acid complex 1-3, phospholipide 1-3, vitamin E 0.03-0.05, oil jojoba 1-3, vegetative glycerinum 2-4, urea 0.1-1.0, an emulgent 10-15, scleroglucan 0.5-2.0, conditioner 3-7, an admixture of methyl paraben and propyl paraben 0.3-0.5, Kathon CG - 0.03-0.08, disodium "ЭДТА" 0.05-0.15, triethanolamin 0.05-0.1, fragrance component 0.1-0.5, deionised water - the rest. As an emulgent are used substances from the group: stearet-2, stearet-21, cyclopentasiloxane, as a conditioner - PPG - 15 stearyl aether, cetearyl alcohol.

EFFECT: improvement of appearance of a skin; rising of a turgor and reduction of depth of folds.

4 cl, 1 tbl

Description

The invention relates to medicine, in particular cosmetology, and relates to gerontological agents used to care for aging skin.

The development of various gerontological cosmetic products, the so-called anti-aging products, is one of the most popular trends in modern cosmetology. It is known that as a result of normal aging, “aging” accelerating under the influence of the environment (wind, air conditioning, central heating), as well as under the influence of the sun, “photoaging”, various cosmetic defects appear on the skin, namely wrinkles, wrinkles , the density and elasticity of the skin decreases, hyperpigmentation and sagging skin are observed. Collagen, the main matrix protein of the skin, is known to give tensile strength to the skin. However, the level of collagen in the skin with age and / or due to photoaging decreases significantly, which reduces the skin's tensile strength and leads to the formation of wrinkles and wrinkles. Therefore, strengthening the skin matrix by increasing collagen levels in the skin provides the opposite effect, aimed at restoring and rejuvenating the skin, thus preventing its aging.

To prevent premature aging of the skin and improve its appearance, various products are used containing substances of various nature and composition as active ingredients. Gerontological activity is exerted by both substances of chemical and natural origin, for example, antibiotics, sulfamides, corticosteroids, enzymes of various spectrum of action (RU 2078561, А61К 7/00, 1997; Jap. 2169511, А61К 7/00, 1996), alpha hydroxy acids and retinoic acid (US 4363815, A61K 7/00, 1984; US 5422370, A61K 7/00, 1996), ethanolamine derivatives (EP 1295593, A61K 7/48, 2003; Japanese Kokai Patent Appl. 495008), cumin alcohol (RU 2244537 , A61K 7/48, 2005), amino acids (RU 2013088, A61K 7/00, 1994), vitamins (RU 2078561, A61K 7/00, 1997). Many of these compounds are part of biologically active additives, which are currently widely used in cosmetology. Therefore, a variety of biologically active additives (BAA) containing compounds that have a regulatory effect on biochemical processes and functional disorders caused by skin aging are introduced into the formulation of known cosmetic compositions to give them a gerontological focus.

As a dietary supplement use a wide group of biochemical compounds isolated from plant materials and raw materials of animal origin, beekeeping products, fish processing products, etc. For example, the product of the processing of sturgeon milk - the sodium salt of deoxyribonucleic acid, which has gerontological activity, is used as a biologically active additive in the well-known composition of cosmetic cream for aging skin (RU 2032398, А61К 7/00, 1995). As a basis in the well-known cream, a composition is used containing monoglycerides, beeswax, stearin, polyethylene glycol diesters, lanolin, triethanolamine, perfume oil, glycerin, preservatives, perfume. The processed products of animal raw materials are used in another known composition - a cosmetic product in the form of bio-cream that prevents skin aging (RU 2078561, А61К 7/00, 1997). A biologically active additive containing hyaluronic acid and the drug pancreatin, which is a complex of pancreatic enzymes in slaughtered animals that have anti-inflammatory and regenerative effects, is introduced into this composition.

Particular attention is paid in cosmetology to biologically active additives obtained from extracts of medicinal plants, due to their greater availability and a wide range of useful components contained in them. Such additives are used in cosmetology as part of creams, gels, dry masks and are used for various types of skin. It is known, for example, that the cream contains extracts of young shoots of spruce, ginseng, chamomile, yarrow (RU 2038073, А61К 7/00, 1995), wheat germ oil (RU 2245707, А61К 7/48, 2005), oil extracts of chamomile, series , sage, nettle, mint, calendula, pericarp of rose hips, pollen of pollen (SU 1683750, A61K 7/00), extracts of beech wood and walnut (EP 1297821, A61K 7/00, 2003).

In the field of cosmetology under consideration, special attention has recently been paid to the study of the properties of plants with phytoestrogenic activity that are already used or can be used in cosmetics. This attention is explained by the fact that phytoestrogens, which include non-steroidal substances obtained from plants, restore the hormonal balance of the skin without causing side effects. Many plants possess phytoestrogenic activity, for example, soy, alfalfa, clover, green corn, cereals, spinach, broccoli carrot, red grape skin, glyceric acid from licorice root, soybean oil, ginseng, hops, iris, pomegranate, walnuts, wild yams. Phytoestrogens of some of these plants, in particular yam and soy, pomegranate and walnut, along with plant placenta of soy and wheat, algae proteins, green coffee oil, juniper and jojoba, peptides, amino acids and ceramides are used as biologically active additives in cosmetic formulations “Anti-age”, produced by the cosmetic laboratory EMANCY (Internet version of the magazine “Beauty, Health, Fitness - Back to Youth”, May 2005, April 2005; www. Emansi.ru/company). However, these cosmetics, performed in the form of creams, gels, which are closest in composition to the new product, have several disadvantages: they do not have a sufficiently prolonged period of action, they have low absorption, which reduces their biological activity.

To expand the well-known range of products used for the prevention of skin aging, the composition of a new product with enhanced absorption and biological activity has been developed. The new product contains a biologically active additive, including a complex of butylene glycol extracts of wheat germ and soy, a complex of oleyl extracts of the roots of wild yams and soy, phospholipid, jojoba oil, vitamin E, an amino acid complex including serine, glutamic acid, alanine, lysine, arginine, threonine, proline, betaine, sorbitol, sodium PCA (sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid), as well as vegetable glycerin and urea, and contains a base including emulsifier, structure-forming agent, scleroglucan, triethanolamine, dinatra EDTA minutes, mixture of methyl and propyl paraben, Cato CG, flavor, and ionized water.

The components of the new tool are introduced into the composition in the following weight ratio with respect to the total weight of the composition (wt.%):

a complex of extracts of soybean and wheat embryos 1-3, a complex of extracts of the roots of wild yam and soybean 1-3, amino acid complex 1-3, phospholipid 1-3, vitamin E 0.03-0.05, jojoba oil 1-3, vegetable glycerin 2-4, urea 0.1-1.0, emulsifier 10-20, structure-forming agent 3-10, scleroglucan 0.5-2.0, a mixture of methylparaben and propylparaben 0.3-0.5, caton CG 0.03- 0.08, disodium EDTA 0.05-0.15, triethanolamine 0.05-0.1, perfume 0.1-0.5, the rest is deionized water.

At the same time, compounds from the group: steareth-2, steareth-21, cyclopentaxyloxane are used as an emulsifier, and compounds from the group: PPG-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol are used as structure-forming agent. As the phospholipid, it is preferable to use phospholipid PLN (linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonum-chlorid phosphatdimethycon).

Due to the experimentally selected qualitative and quantitative composition of the new product, namely, the specific composition of its biologically active component, and the specially selected composition of the cosmetic base, it exhibits improved cosmetic properties compared to the prototype, namely: it has increased suction and biological activity. The results of additional studies confirming the positive effect of the use of a new tool are given below.

This result is achieved, first of all, due to the use as a biologically active component of the composition, which is a certain multicomponent complex of biologically active compounds - phytosteroids, vitamins, organic acids, amino acids, peptides, phospholipids, as well as trace elements contained in the starting components.

So, it is known that soybean and wheat germ extract, otherwise called plant placenta of soybean and wheat, contains phytosteroids, vitamins of group E, B, as well as trace elements (fluorine, iron, potassium, sulfur, phosphorus) and therefore contributes to the production of collagen and skin elastin, regeneration of skin cells, regulation of redox processes, retention of moisture inside skin cells, thus providing a stimulating effect on improving the structure of the epidermis of the skin, increasing its elasticity, and eliminating sagging.

Unlike the prototype, in the new tool, the complex of wheat and soybean embryos is used in the form of a butylene glycol extract, which increases the biological activity of this complex due to the content of a complete complex of extractable biologically active substances, both lipophilic and water-soluble, in it. This extract is rich in tocopherol and carotenoids, contains an increased content of vitamin E, vitamins of group B and microelements necessary for the skin compared to the corresponding oil extracts. The optimal concentration of this component is 1-3 wt.% Of the total weight, which is determined experimentally.

The second native phytosteroid carrier is the oleyl extract of the wild yam and soy root complex. One of the most important components of this complex is steroidal saponin - diosgenin, which helps regulate the hormonal system and, thus, indirectly affects the rejuvenation of the skin. The optimal concentration of this component is also 1-3 wt.% Of the total weight of the composition.

Other components of the biologically active component, namely vitamin E, phospholipid, preferably PLN phospholipid, jojoba oil, amino acid complex, present in all variants of the new product, not only transfer their inherent properties to the cosmetic in question, but also affect the synergistic effect that occurs when the participation of all the constituent components of the new composition. So, vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) is used as an antioxidant, jojoba oil as a film-forming agent that prevents moisture evaporation and as a skin softening and smoothing agent, PLN phospholipid as an emulsifier. The dietary supplement also includes an amino acid complex, the so-called natural moisturizing factor (Prodyu 400), including amino acids (serine, glutamic acid, alanine, lysine, arginine, threonine, proline), as well as betaine, sorbitol and sodium PCA (sodium pyroglutamic acid salt). In addition to these substances, urea is introduced into the biologically active component of the new agent as an antiseptic and as an inhibitor of the action of enzymes, which helps to slow down the aging process, as well as glycerin as an absorbent moisturizer. The optimal amounts of these components are selected experimentally.

For the considered biologically active component, a cosmetic base of a certain composition is selected, which, together with the biologically active component, determines the properties of the new agent. Changes in the qualitative and quantitative composition of the base lead to a decrease in the biological activity of the product, a decrease in its shelf life, and a deterioration in the appearance of the product. The necessary components of the base are emulsifier, structurant, preservative, perfume, scleroglucan as a thickener, triethanolamine (cream softener), complexing agent - sodium EDTA and deionized water. As an emulsifier, substances from the group are used: cyclopentaxiloxane, ethoxylated surfactants (stareth-2 and stareth-21), as a structure-forming agent - substances from the group: PPG-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, scleroglucan as a thickener, and a mixture as a preservative methyl and propyl parabens and Cato CG (antimicrobial supplement).

Cosmetic for the prevention of aging skin is obtained as follows.

Calculate and weigh the appropriate quantities of all ingredients (see table 1). After that, disodium EDTA, urea, glycerin, triethanolamine are introduced into deionized water heated to 75 ° C and loaded into the first smelter and mixed until the ingredients are completely dissolved, after which scleroglucan is introduced and the aqueous phase is stirred until complete swelling. At the same time, emulsifiers and structure-forming agents (stearet-2, stareth-21, PPG-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol) are loaded into the second melter, and the jojoba oil in the corresponding calculated quantities and the mixture are also heated to 75 ° C and mixed with the aqueous phase of the composition in homogenizer mixer. The homogenized phase is cooled to 45 ° C and a mixture of the following ingredients is added using a vacuum pump: amino acid complex (natural moisturizing factor), PLN phospholipid, vitamin E, methylparaben, propylparaben, Cato CG, a complex of wheat and soybean germ extracts, a complex of wild yam root extracts and soy, fragrance. The resulting emulsion is mixed, cooled to 25 ° C until the formation of the final product, collected in a drive and packaged.

The present invention is illustrated by the examples of compositions and examples of their use.

Table 1 Composition Components Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Cyclopentaxyloxane 3 6 5 Stareth 2 3 four four PPG-15 stearyl ether 2 four 3 Stareth 21 one 3 2 Cetearyl alcohol one 0.5 2 Triethanolamine 0.05 0,07 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.15 0.1 Scleroglucan 0.5 2.0 1,0 Methyl and propyl parabens 0.3 0.5 0.4 Cato CG 0,03 0.05 0.08 Perfume 0.3 0.7 0.5 Vegetable glycerin 2 four 3 Jojoba oil one 2 3 A complex of extracts of wheat germ and soy one 3 2 Complex of wild yam and soybean root extracts 2 one 3 Natural moisturizing factor one 2 3 Urea 0.1 one 0.5 Phospholipid PLN one 2 3 Vitamin E 0,03 0.05 0.04 Deionized water 78.14 57.48 61.28

The above examples of compositions do not limit the possibility of creating other compositions with a different quantitative ratio of the components within the claimed limits.

The new product was tested on 20 patients aged 40 to 55 years with normal and dry skin, who applied it with a thin layer on the surface of the skin for 30 days daily in the morning. After such a cycle, the patient’s skin became firmer and softer, softer, with improved complexion, and at the same time, the skin’s tendency to manifest contact allergies decreased, and skin resistance to infections increased.

Claims (4)

1. A cosmetic product for the prevention of skin aging, containing a biologically active additive, including soy and wheat germ and root extracts of wild yam and soy, as well as an amino acid complex, jojoba oil and a cosmetic base, characterized in that it contains a biologically active additive including a complex wheat and soybean embryos in the form of a complex of polyethylene glycol extracts of the embryos of these plants, a complex of wild yam and soybean extracts in the form of a complex of oleic extracts of wild yam and soy root and amino acids complex, in the form of a composition containing serine, glutamic acid, alanine, lysine, arginine, threonine, proline, berain, sodium PCA, sorbitol, as well as phospholipid, vitamin E and a cosmetic base containing an emulsifier, structure-forming agent, scleroglucan, disodium EDTA, a mixture of methyl paraben and propyl paraben, Cato CG, triethanolamine, vegetable glycerin, urea, perfume and deionized water in the following ratio, wt.%: Polyethylene glycol complex wheat germ and soybean extracts 1-3 The complex of oleic extracts of the roots of wild yam and soy 1-3 Amino Acid Complex 1-3 Phospholipid 1-3 Vitamin E 0.03-0.05 Jojoba oil 1-3 Vegetable glycerin 2-4 Urea 0.1-1.0 Emulsifier 10-15 Scleroglucan 0.5-2.0 Structure former 3-7 A mixture of methyl paraben and propyl paraben 0.3-0.5 Cato CG 0.03-0.08 Disodium EDTA 0.05-0.15 Triethanolamine 0.05-0.1 Perfume 0.1-0.5 Deionized water rest 2. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that as an emulsifier contains substances from the group: steareth-2, steareth-21, cyclopentaxyloxane. 3. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that the structure-forming agent contains PPG-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol. 4. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains phospholipid PLN (linoleamidopropyi PG-dimonum-chlorid phosphatdimethycon).