RU2253437C1 - Method for skin rejuvenation - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology, in particular methods and composition for face, neck and decollete zone skin healthcare.

SUBSTANCE: claimed method includes subsequent skin treatment with cosmetic preparations. Primarily make-up is removed with cleaning milk containing fruit acids; then skin is cleaned with non-alcoholic tonic containing fruit acids; eyelids, lips and nose are creamed with fat cream; then skin is creamed with foamed scrub for deep cleaning and keratoid layer exfoliation; further glycol pilling is carried out for 2-5 min; neutralizing mask is applied and hold until absorption; relaxing mask is applied for 10-15 min to remove excitation; then skin is cleaned with non-alcoholic tonic containing fruit acids and creamed with light protective cream SPF-50.

EFFECT: method, which provides skin deep cleaning, increases skin tonus and elasticity, and sufficiently improves skin appearance.

9 cl

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and relates to methods and means of skin care for the face, neck and décolleté.

Even healthy skin with age loses its youthful appearance and needs special care.

To improve the condition of aging aging skin, cosmetics are used that have a hydrating and tonic effect, and stimulate metabolic processes in the skin tissue.

The most common way to improve the appearance of the skin is its so-called “rejuvenation” - the artificial exfoliation of the stratum corneum using special cosmetics that simultaneously normalize the metabolism in skin cells and restore its turgor.

Earlier, traditional means such as salicylic, benzoic and lactic acids, gum products, mercury preparations, and also combinations thereof were used for exfoliation (D. Lass. Facial skin care, M. Aquarium, 1994, p. 192-213).

Recently, for these purposes, they began to use more gentle procedures based on the use of enzyme preparations and a complex of biologically active substances of plant origin, which dissolve dead cells and damaged cells, or solid particles, which can have a mild mechanical effect on the skin that initiates the process. exfoliation. A series of such products is produced by the Lacrima Cosmetic Center.

However, even after such a gentle cosmetic procedure called “herbal peeling therapy”, certain precautions must be taken, since skin devoid of the stratum corneum of cells becomes very sensitive to adverse external influences.

Depending on the type of use of “hard” exfoliating agents, after separate procedures, the face is dusted, lubricated with a protective cream, a drying mask with boric acid is applied in liquid form, it is lubricated with boron paraffin in the intervals between sessions, after the completion of the exfoliation cycle, the skin is massaged with fatty creams and applied nutritious cream masks (D.Laas. Facial skin care, -M. Aquarium, 1994, S. 192-213).

Dusting and drying masks dry the skin and eliminate an unpleasant burning sensation, greasy creams and nourishing cream masks soften the skin and eliminate the feeling of tightness.

A known method of skin rejuvenation, mainly facial skin, is that the surface of the skin is treated with a cosmetic product that causes exfoliation of the upper stratum corneum of the cells, and immediately after that - with a cosmetic product that promotes the regeneration of damaged skin cells, prepared on a fat-free basis. In this case, as a cosmetic agent that promotes the regeneration of damaged skin cells, use a cream mask containing 0.5-5.0 wt.% Avocado oil (RF patent No. 2173984 from 2001).

However, this method has a narrow spectrum of action and is applicable only to facial skin.

An object of the present invention is to provide a method for rejuvenating the epidermis of the skin of the face, neck and décolleté by using herbal medicine with glycolic acid.

This problem is solved by creating a method of skin rejuvenation, including sequential treatment of the face, neck and décolleté skin with cosmetic products, while first removing the skin with cleansing milk with fruit acids, then rubbing the skin with a non-alcoholic tonic with fruit acids, apply to the eyelids, lips and nose a fat cream, then for deep cleansing and exfoliation of the stratum corneum, a foaming scrub with fruit acids is applied to the skin and then glycol peeling is carried out for 2-5 minutes, then applied neutralizing mask and soak it until absorbed, then for 10-15 minutes - a soothing mask to relieve irritation, wipe the skin with a non-alcoholic tonic with fruit acids and apply a herbal cream SPF-50.

Make-up removal is carried out with cleansing milk (pH 4.0) with fruit acids containing extracts of flowers of hawthorn and clover, avocado and orange oil, wheat proteins, trace elements complex Ca, Mg, K, fruit acids, panthenol.

To restore skin balance and hydration, a non-alcoholic tonic (pH 4.0) is used, containing extracts of elderberry, witch hazel, lemongrass, aloe vera gel, fruit acids, panthenol.

Deep cleansing and exfoliation of the stratum corneum is carried out by a foaming scrub with fruit acids (pH 4.5) containing soy phospholipids, vegetable oils of sweet almond, verbena and orange, aloe vera gel, a complex of fruit acids, jojoba wax, provitamin B5.

Spend 20% or 35% glycol peeling with a pH of 1.73 and a pH of 1.63, respectively.

The neutralizing mask (pH 8.5) contains plant proteins of soybean, extracts of orange blossom, calendula, silk amino acids, sodium bicarbonate, bisabolol (1%), panthenol.

The soothing mask contains extracts of the flowers of hawthorn, witch hazel, sage and clover, a complex of trace elements Ca, Mg, K, avocado oil, kiwi, magnesia, vitamin F, panthenol.

SPF-50 herbal cream contains caprylicocapril triglyceride, hexadecanol, polyglyceryl-3, milk triglycerides - 2%, soy protein hydrolyzate - 2%, glyceryl stearate, avocado oil - 1.5%, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, IR filters / UVA / UVB / UVB / UVB / UVB .

The procedures are carried out in courses of 5-10 sessions 1-2 times a year in the autumn-winter period, the frequency of procedures is 1-2 times a week.

Peeling is one of the most popular procedures carried out in cosmetology clinics and beauty salons. The name “peeling” comes from the English word “peeling” - peeling, peeling. Today, in the arsenal of cosmetologists, there are many different types of peeling: mechanical, ultrasonic, laser, chemical. Chemical peeling is a procedure for removing surface layers of skin epithelium using weak acid solutions. Acids provide even exfoliation of dead cells, which helps rejuvenate the skin, stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin, and regenerate new, undamaged cells. As a result of such stimulation of the skin, there is an increase in its tone and elasticity, and the appearance is significantly improved.

Depending on the chemical nature of the active substances used, several types of chemical peeling are distinguished - peeling with fruit acids, peeling with trichloroacetic acid, phenol peeling, etc.

The depth of exposure distinguishes between: surface peeling, which removes the upper layers of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, middle peeling, when the entire stratum corneum is removed, and deep peeling, in which the entire epidermis is removed (upper skin layer).

For the procedure of surface peeling, alpha-hydroxy acids (Alpha Hydroxy Acids, abbreviated AHA) are most often used, which are obtained from various fruits and are called fruit acids, respectively. They stimulate collagen synthesis, inhibit melanin synthesis, and are good antioxidants. Fruit acids include malic, citric, lactic, pyruvic and glycolic acids.

The common structure of all fruit acid molecules is the presence of a carboxyl group (-COOH) at the first carbon atom C1 and a hydroxyl group (-OH) at the second carbon atom C2, and they differ in carbon chain length and molecular weight. The lower the molecular weight, the easier and deeper the AHA molecule penetrates the dermis.

The most widely used in cosmetology is glycolic acid obtained from sugar cane. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule size relative to the size of the molecules of other fruit acids, due to this, a soft and deep cleansing of the skin is carried out, without peeling and irritation.

The second parameter that determines the efficiency of glycolic acid penetration is the pH value. The lower the pH, the deeper the drug penetrates the dermis.

Surface glycol peeling is the most common type of chemical peel. Glycolic acid causes an even and controlled exfoliation of old dead epithelial cells. At the level of the stratum corneum, glycolic acid structures the cells of the stratum corneum, levels the surface of the skin, saturates the intercellular space with moisture. The skin becomes more elastic, the ducts of the sebaceous glands are cleansed, the likelihood of inflammation and the formation of acne is reduced.

Glycolic acid not only moisturizes the skin, but also activates the work of hyaluronic acid in the epidermis and dermis: 1% of hyaluronic acid holds 98% of the water. Hyaluronic acid very actively stimulates the formation of collagen at the level of the dermis. As a result, wrinkles are smoothed not only due to exfoliation, but also due to active moisturizing and collagen production. This process promotes skin rejuvenation on the surface, stimulates the regeneration of young collagen fibers in the middle layer, and improves skin tone and elasticity.

The main goal of glycolic peeling therapy is the rejuvenation of the epidermis. In this case, not only the top layer is renewed, without visible peeling (epidermolysis), but, penetrating the basement membrane and into the mesoderm, glycolic acid stimulates fibroblasts to actively produce collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans, which helps rejuvenate the skin and increase its turgor and elasticity. Acting on collagen and elastin fibers, AHA lead to their retraction (compression), which gives a good lifting effect. Thus, the renewal of all skin layers occurs. As a result, it becomes more even, smooth, moisturized and toned.

This therapy is indicated for almost all clients after 30 years with the aim of smoothing the skin relief, removing “sun wrinkles”, moisturizing and biostimulating. Glycolic acid peeling is recommended for the treatment of various epidermal disorders, such as ichthyosis, seborrheic keratosis, acne vulgaris, acne. In addition, glycolic peeling is successfully used to prevent skin aging, correct age-related cosmetic defects, eliminate hyperpigmentation, keratoma.

Glycolic acid peeling is a virtually painless procedure. The feeling of light burning is quite portable and is easily eliminated by a directed stream of cold air. When neutralizing the acid, the burning sensation completely disappears.

All drugs that are part of the therapy with fruit acids have a delicate structure, do not contain fragrances and synthetic dyes. All funds included in this therapy are comfortable to use, have passed dermatological control and meet the highest requirements of modern cosmetology.

In the proposed method, the following cosmetics are used.

- Cleansing milk with fruit acids (pH 4.0).

Milk has a light delicate texture. Gently removes traces of makeup and impurities from the surface of the skin, providing deep cleaning. Refreshes and evens complexion.

Active ingredients: extracts of flowers of hawthorn and clover, avocado and orange oil, wheat proteins, trace elements complex Ca, Mg, K, fruit acids, panthenol.

- Non-alcoholic tonic with fruit acids (pH 4.0).

Restores skin balance, toning and refreshing it. Moisturizes the epidermis, while maintaining a feeling of softness.

Active ingredients: elderberry, witch hazel, lemongrass flower extracts, aloe vera gel, fruit acids, panthenol.

- Foaming scrub with fruit acids (pH 4.5).

A delicate foaming exfoliating scrub provides deep cleansing and exfoliation of the stratum corneum without irritating it. Eliminates water and fat soluble contaminants on the skin and has a keratolytic effect. Stimulates the regeneration of epidermal cells.

Active ingredients: soybean phospholipids, vegetable oils of sweet almond, verbena and orange, aloe vera gel, fruit acid complex, jojoba wax, provitamin B5.

20% glycolic peeling (pH 1.73)

- 35% glycolic peeling (pH 1.63)

Neutralizing mask (pH 8.5)

The mask has a tonic and calming effect, relieves skin tension, restores skin balance after exposure to glycolic peeling.

Active ingredients: vegetable soy proteins, orange flower extracts, calendula, silk amino acids, sodium bicarbonate, bisabolol (1%), panthenol.

- Soothing mask.

It activates cell regeneration and strengthens the epidermis, restores skin elasticity and hydrobalance, and enhances its natural protective functions.

Active ingredients: extracts of flowers of hawthorn, witch hazel, sage and clover, a complex of trace elements Ca, Mg, K, avocado oil, kiwi, magnesia, vitamin F, panthenol.

Sunscreen SPF-50.

It provides multifunctional skin protection, supplies it with essential nourishing and moisturizing elements, neutralizes the effect of free radicals. Ideal for sensitive skin care.

Active ingredients: caprylicocapril triglyceride, hexadecanol, polyglyceryl-3, milk triglycerides - 2%, soy protein hydrolyzate - 2%, glyceryl stearate, avocado oil - 1.5%, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, UVA / UVB / IR filters and water.

The proposed method is as follows.

On the eve of the procedure, an allergological test is performed.

They delicately make-up face, neck and décolleté skin with a cleansing milk with fruit acids. The milk is applied with light circular movements on wet skin and gently massaged until a light emulsion is formed.

The remnants of the cleaning agent are removed with a sponge dipped in warm water. Moisture remaining on the skin is gently soaked with cosmetic wipes.

Wipe the skin with wet discs moistened with a non-alcoholic tonic with fruit acids. Moisture remaining on the skin is gently soaked with cosmetic wipes.

Apply oily cream to the eyelids, lips and nose.

Deep cleansing and exfoliation of the stratum corneum of the skin is carried out by a foaming scrub with fruit acids.

A peeling agent is applied to the skin: 1 ml of glycol peeling is evenly and quickly distributed over the skin with a fan brush and left for 2-5 minutes, depending on the sensitivity and type of client's skin.

Apply a neutralizing mask and stand it until absorbed.

Then for 10-15 minutes - a soothing mask to relieve irritation. After the specified time, delicately remove the remains of the mask with wet sponges.

Wipe the skin with wet discs moistened with a non-alcoholic tonic with fruit acids. Moisture remaining on the skin gently gets wet with cosmetic wipes.

Using light massage movements, a sunscreen SPF-50 is applied and allowed to absorb.

Superficial glycolic peeling is carried out in courses of 5-10 sessions 1-2 times a year in the autumn-winter period. The number of procedures depends on the client’s skin type and its problems. The frequency of the procedures is 1-2 times a week.

The depth of peeling depends on the concentration of glycolic acid, the duration of its contact with the skin, individual characteristics and the degree of sensitivity of the skin. After surface peeling with glycolic acid in most patients, the skin turns slightly red. Redness lasts from 2 to 24 hours. It is extremely rare to experience mild swelling of the skin, which passes on its own during the day. The most sensitive areas are the eyelids and cheeks. With increased skin sensitivity, surface crusts may form in these places, which peel on their own within 2-3 days.

Glycol peeling is characterized by a high concentration of active components and is used mainly only in professional practice.

When carrying out glycolic peeling, peloid therapy, contrast procedures, ultraviolet irradiation and heliotherapy should be abandoned.

The main goal of glycolic peeling therapy is the rejuvenation of the epidermis of the skin of the face, neck, and décolleté. In this case, not only the top layer is renewed, without visible peeling (epidermolysis), but, penetrating the basement membrane and into the mesoderm, glycolic acid stimulates fibroblasts to actively produce collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans, which helps rejuvenate the skin and increase its turgor and elasticity. Acting on collagen and elastin fibers, fruit acids lead to their retraction (compression), which gives a good lifting effect. Thus, the renewal of all skin layers occurs. As a result, it becomes more even, smooth, moisturized and toned.

Claims (9)

1. A method of skin rejuvenation, characterized in that the skin of the face, neck and décolleté line is successively treated with cosmetic products, while first the skin is removed with a cleansing milk with fruit acids, then the skin is rubbed with a non-alcoholic tonic with fruit acids on the eyelids, lips and nose apply a fat cream, then for deep cleansing and exfoliation of the stratum corneum, a foaming scrub with fruit acids is applied to the skin and then glycol peeling is carried out for 2-5 minutes, then a neutralizing oil is applied y and kept it until absorbed, and then for 10-15 minutes - soothing mask to relieve irritation, the skin is rubbed with a non-alcoholic tonic fruit acids and SHF-50 applied sunscreen cream. 2. The method according to claim 1, where the make-up removal is carried out with cleansing milk (pH 4.0) with fruit acids containing extracts of flowers of hawthorn and clover, avocado and orange oil, wheat proteins, trace elements complex Ca, Mg, K, fruit acids, panthenol . 3. The method according to claim 1, where to restore skin balance and hydration use a non-alcoholic tonic (pH 4.0) containing extracts of elderberry flowers, witch hazel, lemongrass, aloe vera gel, fruit acids, panthenol. 4. The method according to claim 1, where deep cleansing and exfoliation of the stratum corneum of the skin is carried out by a foaming scrub with fruit acids (pH 4.5) containing soy phospholipids, vegetable oils of sweet almond, verbena and orange, aloe vera gel, a complex of fruit acids, jojoba wax, provitamin B5. 5. The method according to claim 1, where 20% or 35% glycol peeling is used with a pH of 1.73 and a pH of 1.63, respectively. 6. The method according to claim 1, where the neutralizing mask (pH 8.5) contains vegetable soy proteins, extracts of orange blossom, calendula, silk amino acids, sodium bicarbonate, bisabolol (1%), panthenol. 7. The method according to claim 1, where the soothing mask contains extracts of flowers of hawthorn, witch hazel, sage and clover, a complex of trace elements Ca, Mg, K, avocado oil, kiwi, magnesia, vitamin F, panthenol. 8. The method according to claim 1, where the herbal cream SPF-50 contains caprylicocapril triglyceride, hexadecanol, polyglyceryl-3, milk triglycerides - 2%, soy protein hydrolyzate - 2%, glyceryl stearate, avocado oil - 1.5%, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, UYA / UYB / IR filters and water. 9. The method according to claim 1, where the procedures are carried out in courses of 5-10 sessions 1-2 times a year in the autumn-winter period, and the frequency of the procedures is 1-2 times a week.