RU2032397C1 - Cosmetic cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics; medicine. SUBSTANCE: this emulsion cosmetic cream includes deoxyribonucleic acid sodium salt prepared from sturgeon milt. EFFECT: this cream possesses antigeriatric, antiinflammatory, antihydration, photoprotective, and antioxidant properties. 1 dwg, 3 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to medicine, in particular to cosmetology, and for creams of gerontological action used to care for aging skin of the face.

 The range of cosmetics for skin care is quite large. To give preventive properties to cosmetic preparations, various biological additives are introduced into their composition, which have a pathogenetic effect on biochemical processes and functional disorders caused by skin aging in order to correct age-related disorders. Vitamins, enzymes, phosphorus-containing substances, plant extracts, beekeeping products and others are used as biologically active additives. Protein products are used as an additive in Freedom cream and nucleic acid exchange in Gerontol cream. Gerontol contains orotic acid, which normalizes the content of nucleic acids and proteins in aging skin, but Gerontol has a fairly narrow spectrum of activity, does not have an antioxidant and photoprotective effect, when applied to the skin forms a film that impedes the penetration of biologically active substances through the skin barrier.

 In connection with the above, the task was to create a new cosmetic cream designed to care for dry, aging skin of the face, not causing side effects, well absorbed into the skin, having antioxidant, photoprotective, hydrate and proliferative effects, as well as normalizing the content of nucleic acids and common soluble proteins disrupted by aging.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that for the first time a sodium salt of DNA obtained from sturgeon milk and having the following characteristics was introduced into the composition of a cosmetic cream as a biologically active additive: Mol.m. 0.3-12.0 MD Hyperchromic effect (G) 37-46%
Protein content Not more than 1.5 wt. RNA Not more than 6% Polysaccharides Not more than 2%
The molar ratio of nucleotides Adenine 29.0 Timin 27.0 Guanine 22.0 Cytosine 20.0
In addition, the composition of the cream includes a copolymer of acrylic acid and polyalyl esters of pentoerythritol, a mixture of mono - and diesters of oleic acid and polyethylene glycol, oil, emulsion wax, alcohols, perfume, water, in the following ratios of components, wt.

Sodium salt of DNA,
obtained from sturgeon milk 0.25-0.5
Acrylic copolymer
acids and polyalyl
pentoerythritol esters
acrylic acid copolymer sodium salt 0.2-0.5
PEG-400 stearate
(mixture of mono and diesters
polyethylene glycol-400 and stearin) 3.0-5.0
Oleate (a mixture of mono- and di-
esters of oleic acid
lots and PEG-400 polyethylene glycol-400) 2.0-3.0
Perfumery butyl oil
isopropyl palminate isopropyl myristate 3.0-5.0
Distilled glycerin-1,2 propylene glycol 3.0-5.0
Alcohols fractions C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ ,
overclocked (synthetic
primary) alcohols are highly
molecular synthetic
primary higher fatty C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 0.5-1.0
2.2 ¹ , 2 ¹¹ -Nitrilotriethanol (triethanolamine) 0.1-0.3
Monoglycerides distilled
bath-monostearate glycerol-stearate DEG 1.0-2.0 Beeswax 1.0-2.0
Oxyethylated lanolin-60 0.5-1.0 Preservatives 3.33-5.55 Fragrance 0.2-1.0 Water Up to 100.0
The essential features of the invention should be considered the qualitative and quantitative composition of the cream, as well as the introduction of its sodium salt of DNA, previously not used according to these indications. In addition to the DNA salt, the cream contains the following raw materials: oxyethylated lanolin increases the thermal stability of the cream, allows you to adjust its viscosity , well softens the skin, eliminates peeling, promotes the absorption of biologically active components of the cream by the skin, glycerol monostearate, deg stearate, distilled monoglycerides, as well as beeswax are structurally forming raw materials, emulsion wax is an emulsifier that provides the formation of an oil-water emulsion, butyl stearate-isopropyl palmitate-isopropyl myristate perfume viscosity regulator of cosmic emulsions, which provides good plastic properties of emulsion cream, glycerin or 1,2- propylene glycol is used as a component that protects the cosmetic product from drying out, lowers the freezing point, softens the skin, acrylic acid copolymers and floor acrylic esters of pentaerythritol sodium salt of acrylic acid copolymer gelling components are Tammy, stearate and oleate, polyethylene glycol 400 emulsifiers for cosmetic emulsions, alcohols C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ synthetic, primary (overclocked) strukturoob- razuyuschy component, a flavor is added to impart a pleasant odor cream. Water is the main component for the preparation of all types of emulsion creams.

The main stages of the manufacturing process of the claimed cream are:
1. Weighing and melting of raw materials.

 2. Preparation of the fat and water phases.

 3. Emulsification.

 4. Cooling and perfume.

 5. Packing in packaging containers.

To prepare the aqueous phase, water, 1,2-propylene glycol or glycerol, a copolymer of acrylic acid and triethanolamine was heated to 75-80 ^C. To prepare the fat phase the glycerol monostearate or distilled monoglycerides, or DEG stearate, butyl stearate or perfume oil or izopropilpalminat or isopropyl myristate beeswax, ethoxylated lanolin, oil-soluble emulsifiers (OMAT PEG-400, PEG-400 stearate), alcohols fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ fused to 80-85 ° ^C. Next, mixed fatty and aqueous phases. Under certain conditions (temperature, pH, order of entry), DNA and preservatives are added to the cream mass. The resulting cream is an emulsion of white or light cream color with a pleasant smell.

 In an animal experiment, subacute toxicity was studied with morphological control of the structure of the skin and internal organs, the irritating and allergenic effect of the cream (with morphological control), the effect of the cream on the biochemical parameters of the skin, in particular, the content of total lipids and water-soluble proteins, spectrophotometric determination of the light-absorbing properties of the cream, was studied, its antioxidant activity on lipid peroxidation models, the penetration of DNA in the cream through the skin barrier.

 A clinical study of the cream was also carried out using clinical indicators and objective tests of moisture and elastometry.

 Research Methodology.

 The experiments were carried out on 30 sexually mature guinea pigs males, albinos weighing 250-300 g, which are in the standard vivarium regime. Samples of the cream were applied daily, once for 21 days on pre-depilated skin areas. The controls were intact animals and those receiving the cream base. In the experimental study, the following methods were used: subacute toxicity (as described by Gatsuro), irritating and allergenic effects according to the Ievleva method, studying the morphological structure of the skin and internal organs by staining sections with hematoxylin-eosin and liver by Sudan III. Throughout the entire period of use of the cosmetic product, a visual assessment of the effect of the drug was carried out taking into account the general condition of the skin and coat of the tested animals, as well as the general state of behavior and weight gain in comparison with the control. Also used were biochemical tests characterizing the functional state of the skin, quantitative determination of total lipids by the Huergo method, total and soluble proteins by the Bailey microbiuret method, the concentration of skin DNA according to Schmidt and Tangauzer, penetration through the skin barrier using labeled C14-thymidine DNA, determination of the photoprotective effect by studying the light-absorbing properties of the drug using a spectrophotometer.

 The antioxidant activity of the cream was studied by registering chemoluminescence on lipid peroxidation models. The reliability of the results was confirmed statistically using Student's criterion.

 Clinical trials were conducted on 30 healthy women aged 30-60 years with dry, aging and normal skin type. On examination, dry skin, peeling, sagging, decreased turgor, i.e. signs of premature aging of the skin, some patients revealed elements of inflammation redness, swelling. In order to identify individual sensitivity to the cream, its long-term use was preceded by patchwork closed 24 hours. In the case of a negative patch test, the cream was then applied for 21 days to the skin of the face and neck, applying a thin layer 1 time per day, daily for 30- 40 min. The remnants of the cream were removed with a paper towel. In clinical trials of the cream, its effect on skin color, the presence of wrinkles, fat content and vascular reactions was noted. The skin elasticity was determined using an elastometer, hydration using a tecom moisture meter.

 The results of experimental clinical studies.

 As a result of the studies, it was found that with prolonged application of the cream, pathological changes in behavior, motor activity, appetite, weight gain, skin and coat condition of experimental animals were not observed. No pathological changes were also noted during macro- and microscopic studies of the structure of the skin and internal organs. Under the influence of the claimed cream, activation of proliferative processes in the skin was detected, in the absence of irritating and allergenic effects.

A study of the effect of the claimed cream on the biochemical parameters of the skin revealed that the cream increases the content of total soluble proteins and DNA, and total lipids. Experimental animals showed good penetration of labeled C ₁₄ -thymidine DNA through the skin barrier. Antioxidant and photoprotective properties were also found.

 Table 1 presents the results of studying the content of secondary products of lipid peroxidation (LPO) under the action of ultraviolet radiation. From table 1 it is seen that when using the cream, lipid peroxidation is completely suppressed, which indicates a high antioxidant activity of the claimed cream. The data showed that the process of "quenching" of free radicals underlies the antioxidant action of the cream. The photoprotective effect of the cream, associated with the study of light transmission in cream films with a thickness of 0.10 mm, is associated with an antioxidant effect. It was revealed that all cream samples practically do not pass UV radiation at a wavelength shorter than 280 nm.

 The drawing shows a graph explaining the photoprotective effect of the proposed cream according to photometry.

 In clinical studies, the method of controlling the parameters of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of the skin and the transport of water through it revealed hydratant properties of the claimed cream.

 The results of studies of the content of water-soluble proteins, lipids and DNA in the skin are presented in table 2. From table 2 it follows that the claimed cream has pronounced hydratant properties compared to the base. From table 2 it is also seen that the claimed cream increases the content of these indicators in the skin. Clinical trials carried out over 3 weeks showed that all patients had patchwork samples negative. It has been established that with prolonged use, the absorbency of the cream is good, it softens the skin, removes the phenomenon of dryness, peeling, inflammation, has a hydrant effect, improves skin elasticity.

 Thus, analyzing the results of an experimental-clinical study of the claimed cream, it can be concluded that the studied cream is non-toxic, does not exhibit irritating and allergenic effects, exhibits antioxidant, photoprotective and anti-inflammatory properties, improves the functional state of the skin, and does not require additional photoprotective additives.

PRI me R 1. Weigh the raw materials. To prepare the aqueous phase, water, 3.0 wt. glycerol or 1.2 wt. propylene glycol, 0.2 wt. a copolymer of acrylic acid and polyalyl esters of pentaerythritol or sodium salt of a copolymer of acrylic acid is heated to 75-80 ^about C. To prepare the fat phase of 0.5 wt. hydroxyethylated lanolin, 1.0 wt. distilled monoglycerides or glycerol monostearate or DEG stearate, 1.0 wt. beeswax, 3.0 wt. perfume oil or butyl stearate or isopropyl palminate, 3.0 wt. a mixture of mono - and diesters of polyethylene glycol-400 and stearin, 2.0 wt. a mixture of mono - and diesters of oleic acid and polyethylene glycol-400, 0.5 wt. alcohols of the fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ is heated to 80-85 ^o C. Next, mixed aqueous and fat phase. 3.33 wt. preservative complex, 0.25 wt. sodium salt of DNA, as well as perfume in the amount of 0.2 wt. The resulting cream is a homogeneous emulsion, white or light cream in color with a pleasant smell. Pharmacological studies of the resulting cream showed that it has antioxidant, photoprotective, hydratant, proliferative, anti-inflammatory properties. No allergic complications or irritating effects were detected. The cream penetrates well through the skin barrier.

 PRI me R 2. Weigh the raw materials.

For the preparation of the aqueous phase 5.0 wt. glycerol or 1.2 wt. propylene glycol, 0.5 wt. a copolymer of acrylic acid and polyalyl esters of pentaerythritol or the sodium salt of a copolymer of acrylic acid, 0.3 wt. triethanolamine is heated to 75-80 ^about C.

To prepare the fat phase of 1.0 wt. hydroxyethylated lanolin-60.0, 2.0 wt. distilled monoglycerides or glycerol monostearate or DEG stearate, 2.0 wt. beeswax, 5.0 wt. perfume oil or butyl stearate or isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate, 5.0 wt. a mixture of mono - and diesters of polyethylene glycol-400 and stearin, 3.0 wt. a mixture of mono - and diesters of oleic acid polyethylene glycol-400, 1.0 wt. alcohols of the fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ is heated to 80-85 ° ^C. The phases were mixed, added 5.55 preservative complex, 0.5 wt. sodium salt of DNA, 1.0 wt. perfumes.

 The resulting cream is a homogeneous emulsion of white or light cream color, a pleasant smell. Experimental and clinical studies have shown that the cream has antioxidant, hydrating, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory properties. The cream does not cause allergies, does not have an irritating effect on the skin.

 Thus, the presented examples illustrate the therapeutic and prophylactic effectiveness of the claimed cream and the significance of its qualitative and quantitative composition.

 In special studies, it was shown that going beyond the declared values of the ingredients of the composition in the direction of increasing or decreasing causes a deterioration in the organoleptic and pharmacological properties of the cream. Comparison of the results of our own research with literature data on the issue under study is presented in Table 3.

The proposed cream, in comparison with the known has the following advantages:
a wide range of biological activity with pronounced geriatric action;
It has a hydratant, photoprotective, antioxidant, proliferative, anti-inflammatory effect on the skin;
no side effects;
the cream is well absorbed, does not form a film.

 The cream can be recommended for the care of aging, dry, sensitive, prone to inflammation, as well as normal skin in order to prevent wrinkles and premature aging of the skin.

Claims (1)

COSMETIC CREAM containing a biologically active substance, lanolin, beeswax, preservatives, perfume and water, characterized in that as a biologically active substance it contains sodium salt of DNA obtained from sturgeon milk, and additionally a copolymer of acrylic acid and polyallyl esters of pentoerythritol or sodium salt of a copolymer of acrylic acid, PEG-400 stearate a mixture of mono-and diesters of polyethylene glycol-400 and stearin, oleate PEG-400 a mixture of mono-and diesters of oleic acid and polyethylene glycol-400, perfume oil or butyl stearate or isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate, distilled glycerin or 1,2-propylene glycol, alcohols of the C _{1 7} C _{1 8} fraction, distilled synthetic primary, or high molecular weight synthetic alcohols primary higher fatty C _{1 6} C _{2 0} , 2.2 ' , 2 '' - nitriloethanolamine (triethanolamine) and distilled monoglycerides or glycerol monostearate or DEG stearate in the following ratio of components, wt. Sodium salt of DNA obtained from sturgeon milk 0.25 0.5
A copolymer of acrylic acid and pentoerythritol polyalyl esters or the sodium salt of an acrylic acid copolymer 0.2 0.5
PEG-400 stearate 3.0 5.0
Oleate PEG-400 2.0 3.0
Perfume oil, or butyl stearate, or isopropyl palmitate, or isopropyl myristate 3.0 5.0
Distilled glycerol or 1,2-propylene glycol 3.0 5.0
Alcohols of fraction C _{1 7} C _{1 8} , distilled synthetic primary, or high molecular weight synthetic alcohols primary higher fatty C _{1 6} C _{2 0} 0.5 1.0
2.2``, 2 '' - nitrilotriethanol (triethanolamine) 0.1 0.3
Distilled monoglycerides or glycerol monostearate or DEG stearate 1.0 2.0
Beeswax 1.0 2.0
Oxyethylated lanolin 60 0.5 1.0
Preservatives 3.33 5.55
Fragrance 0.2 1.0
Water Else

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