RU2066991C1 - Fixed composition for chemical hair-wave - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics. SUBSTANCE: composition contains hydrogen peroxide, citric acid, or lactic or tartaric acid in amount provided PH from 1.9 to 4.0, phosphonic acid or its salts, surfactant, water and, possibly, other necessary additives. Optimum relation of components, wt.-%: hydrogen peroxide, 1.0-4.0; citric, or lactic or tartaric acid, 0.5-6.0; phosphonic acid or its salt, 0.01-1.0; surfactant, 0.5-5.0; water, the balance. EFFECT: composition provides higher efficiency of fixing chemical hair-wave and has higher stability at storage (9 months).

Description

 The invention relates to the field of cosmetic and toilet preparations, and more specifically to means for fixing chemical perm of hair.

 As you know, perm is a fairly complex process, which is based on redox reactions on the phase interface inside the hair. This process includes two main stages, in the first of which the hair is softened by the action of a solution containing a reducing agent. According to the generally accepted theory, the reducing agent breaks the bisulfide bridges of keratin, which is the main component of the hair substance. Mercaptantioglycolic acid in the form of ammonium salts is most often used as a reducing agent. The process is carried out in an alkaline pH range of 9-10. After intermediate washing, the softened hair is given a certain configuration, and then they are again cured, and thus the effect of curling (or straightening) of the hair is achieved. The curing step, also called neutralization, fixation, is to restore most of the destroyed bisulfide bridges. To do this, as a rule, perborates, alkali metal bromates or aqueous solutions of hydrogen peroxide are used.

 In the 80s, a number of fixing compositions for perms were declared with a fairly simple component composition, including aqueous hydrogen peroxide and a small amount of phosphoric and / or citric acid (Cl. A 61 K 7/09, West Great Britain N 2066864, op. 15.07 .81; A 61 K 7/11, West Great Britain N 2086443, op. 12.05.82).

 The developers of these compounds have established the optimal concentration of hydrogen peroxide (1-4 wt.), As well as the required amount of injected acids to ensure good quality of the curl: long-term preservation of the curl's shape, less damage and lightening of the hair, less residual alkali. Fixative formulations of this type “work” at a pH of 1.9 to 4.

 Later developments are aimed at satisfying a number of requirements that ensure not only the optimal course of physicochemical processes on such a complex biological substrate as hair, but also increase the efficiency of perm, i.e. obtaining greater elasticity and rigidity of the curl, a good cosmetic effect (shine, fluffiness of hair), taking into account factors such as the physiological harmlessness of the compounds and their stability.

 These requirements led to the introduction of various functional additives in the composition: wetting agents, surfactants of various types, biologically active components, fragrances, etc. (cl. A 61 K 7/06, clause USA N 4656043, op. 07.04.87; cl. A 61 K 7/09, cl. USA N 4770872, op. 13.09.88). High efficiency of these compositions is achieved by introducing components, the cost and availability of which limits the use of these compositions.

 Closest to the claimed is a fixing composition for perm, described in US patent N 4349537 (CL A 61 K 7/09, op. 14.09.82), selected as a prototype. The task of increasing the efficiency of curling is solved by introducing into the composition based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide (from 1 to 4 wt.) The exact amount of citrate ion (0.21 mol) in the form of citric acid or a mixture of citric acid with its sodium salt while ensuring pH 1, 9 4.0. The composition also contains other necessary additives: wetting agent, surfactant, stabilizer, fragrance and is quite complex.

 The problem that the authors of the alleged invention solve is to obtain a highly effective, storage-stable fixing composition for perm, providing good elasticity and rigidity of the curl, long-term preservation of its shape.

 The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the fixing composition for perm, containing hydrogen peroxide, hydroxycarboxylic acid with alcohol hydroxyl groups or a mixture of this acid with its salt, in an amount providing a pH of 1.9 to 4.0, a surfactant , water, and possibly other necessary additives, as hydroxycarboxylic acid, contains citric or lactic or tartaric acid and additionally contains phosphonic acid or its salt.

 To obtain a better effect, the fixing composition contains these components in the following ratio, wt.

Hydrogen peroxide 1.0-4.0
Citric or lactic or tartaric acid 0.5-6.0
Phosphonic acid or its salt 0.01-1.0
Surfactant 0.5-5.0
Water Else
Common features with the prototype are: the presence of hydrogen peroxide, hydroxycarboxylic acid with alcohol hydroxyl groups, or a mixture of this acid with its salt in an amount providing a pH of 1.9 4.0, a surfactant, and possibly other necessary additives, water .

 Distinctive features are: the use of citric, or lactic, or tartaric acid as hydroxycarboxylic acid and, in addition, phosphonic acid or its salt.

 An additional distinguishing feature is the quantitative ratio of the components in the composition, wt.

Hydrogen peroxide 1.0-4.0
Citric or lactic or tartaric acid 0.5-6.0
Phosphonic acid or its salt 0.01-1.0
Surfactant 0.5-5.0
Water Else
As the experiments showed, the introduction of phosphonic acid or its salt in combination with hydroxycarboxylic acid with alcoholic hydroxyl groups into the fixing composition for perm, made it possible to obtain greater elasticity and stiffness of the curl, which retains its shape for a long time (without additional treatment with hot air) compared to the composition without the above additives. This effect, apparently, is associated with an additional hardening effect of the claimed composition.

 In addition, phosphonic acid or its salt in combination with citric, or lactic, or tartaric acid forms a more mobile buffer system that maintains an optimal pH range (1.9–4.0), which also provides good storage stability (stability fixing solution - up to 9 months).

 The use of this set of features to solve the problem from published information sources by the authors has not been identified.

 The industrial applicability of the inventive fixing composition for perm is shown in the examples of specific performance presented in the table.

 All fixing compositions shown in examples 1-4 were prepared by simple mixing of the components, and a clear liquid was obtained that did not decompose even when boiled for 20 minutes. Under normal conditions, all formulations remained highly effective for 9 months. TTT1

Claims (1)

 A perm composition for perm, containing hydrogen peroxide, a compound or mixture of compounds that, when dissociated, gives an ion of one of the hydroxy carboxylic acids with hydroxy alcohol groups, a surfactant and water, characterized in that it additionally contains phosphonic acid or its salt, and as sources of oxycarboxylic acid ions, a compound or mixture of compounds is used which, upon dissociation, gives a citric or tartaric or lactic acid ion in the following quantitative ratio of components comrade, wt. Hydrogen peroxide 1.0 4.0
A compound or mixture of compounds that, upon dissociation, gives a citric or tartaric or lactic acid ion 0.5 6.0
Phosphonic acid or its salt 0.01 1.0
Surfactant 0.2 2.0
Water Else

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