PL246195B1 - Cosmetic skin care product - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the application is a cosmetic preparation for skin care, which is characterized in that it contains: - from 0.125% to 0.250% gallic acid - from 3% to 5% of a humectant, preferably glycerin or propylene glycol - from 1% to 1.5% phenoxyethanol - from 4% to 6% methyl glucose sesquistearate - from 3% to 5% cetyl alcohol - from 14% to 17% of vegetable oil, preferably sunflower or rapeseed or linseed or nut seed or fruit or fruit seed oil - 7 - 9% squalane - the remainder up to 100% is water.

Description

Description of the invention

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic preparation for skin care.

The skin is a natural barrier protecting our body from harmful external factors. It is exposed to year-round exposure to UV radiation reaching the Earth. Lack of proper prevention against the harmful effects of this radiation can lead to the development of skin changes, including cancer.

Pat. No. 198268 describes a herbal composition consisting of at least three plants, containing active substances in the form of carotenoids, iridoids, especially aucubin and catalpol, and polyphenols, especially phenolic acids and flavonoids, wherein these plants are present in complementary amounts to obtain 0.3 to 1.5% of carotenoids, 0.5 to 1.0% of iridoids, and 0.5 to 4.0% of polyphenols per 100 g of the mixture.

It is known from US6989150 a cosmetic preparation of active substances, both as such and in combination with other active substances, particularly effectively protects the skin against free radical aggression. The preparation consists of an extract of quebracho blanco bark, which contains at least 90% by weight of proanthocyanidin oligomers, an extract of silkworm, which contains the peptide cecropin, amino acids and a mixture of vitamins, a non-ionic, cationic or anionic hydrogel, phospholipids, a yeast decomposition product and cyclodextrins. The preparation according to the invention may contain additional active substances, such as plant extracts of acerola, seaweed, citrus, bitter orange, cherry, papaya, tea, coffee beans, peel and angelica. The preparations synergistically increase the anti-radical protection factors to 10,000.

Cosmetic compositions containing these preparations have radical protection factors from 40 to 400, depending on the portion of the preparation.

It is known from CN113233976A a eutectic of gallic acid and glycine and a whitening cream containing the eutectic, a eutectic of gallic acid and glycine added to a cosmetic, wherein the dissolution rate of gallic acid is increased by the eutectic and the absorption capacity of gallic acid and the whitening therapeutic effect of the cosmetic are improved.

It is known from CN106456478A the cosmetic and pharmaceutical use of gallic acid derivatives and gallic acid. The invention relates to a compound, a salt of the compound, a derivative of the compound or a salt of the derivative, wherein the compound is selected from gallic acid, its hydrolysable polymers in gallic acid, hexahydroxydiphenic acid, its hydrolysable polymers in hexahydroxydiphenic acid, ellagic acid, their hydrolysable polymers in ellagic acid, gallotannins, ellagitannins and their cosmetic use for stimulating or repairing the barrier function of the epidermis and their pharmaceutical functions for treating damage caused by conditions such as Crohn's disease.

The aim of the invention is to develop such a cosmetic preparation with the addition of gallic acid, which will allow for obtaining a selective effect on the proliferation of normal cells and melanoma and will be intended for all skin types, including the skin of people with skin changes caused by epidermis resection in order to remove skin cancer changes. This aim has been achieved in the cosmetic preparation obtained according to the invention below and the method of its production described.

The essence of the invention is a cosmetic preparation for skin care characterized in that it contains from 0.125% to 0.250% of gallic acid, from 3% to 5% of a humectant, preferably glycerin or propylene glycol, from 1% to 1.5% of phenoxyethanol, from 4% to 6% of methyl glucose sesquistearate, from 3% to 5% of cetyl alcohol, from 14% to 17% of vegetable oil, preferably sunflower or rapeseed or linseed or nut seed or fruit or fruit seed oil, 7-9% of squalane, the remainder up to 100% being water.

It is advantageous to add gallic acid to the water phase when preparing the emulsion. The invention is presented in the examples of embodiments, which do not constitute a limitation of the invention but represent its most advantageous implementations. The invention is fulfilled in all ranges of the given ingredients.

Example I. A cosmetic emulsion was prepared containing in the fat phase 5% of methyl glucose sesquistearate (INCI: Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), 4% of cetyl alcohol (INCI: Cethyl Alcohol), 8% of squalane (INCI: Squalane), 15% of sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annus Seed Oil); in the water phase 3% of glycerin (INCI: Glycerin), 0.250% of gallic acid (INCI: Gallic Acid), 1% of Euxyl PE 9010 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin), and water (INCI: Aqua) made up to 100%.

PL 246195BI

For a 0.250% gallic acid solution in water, cellular studies were performed using a human fibroblast line and a human melanoma line.

Cellular studies were also performed for emulsions obtained according to the description of the invention.

Human fibroblast line (passage 2) (NHDF) and human melanoma line (MNT-1) were cultured in Minimum Essential Medium Eagle (MEM) medium supplemented with 10% inactivated bovine serum, 2 mM L-glutamine and 1% streptomycin/penicillin for human fibroblasts and MEM medium supplemented with 20% inactivated bovine serum, 10% AIM-V ^TM medium, 2 mM L-glutamine, 10 mM HEPES, 1% NEAA (non-essential amino acids) and 1% streptomycin/penicillin for melanoma cells, respectively.

Cultures were carried out in bottles in an incubator maintained at a constant temperature of 37°C and a constant concentration of 5% CO2. After obtaining a confluent culture (70-80%), the medium was removed, the cells were washed twice with warm NPBS buffer (pH 7.4) and incubated for about 1 minute with 1-2 ml of trypsin/EDTA solution (1x). Detached cells were gently pipetted with a portion of fresh medium. A part of the suspension was intended for the experiment on proliferation in the presence of gallic acid (concentration range: 0.15%, 0.03%, 0.0625%, 0.125%, 0.25%, 0.5%) against the control (cells in the presence of the appropriate culture medium). The cells were seeded into a 96-well plate ( ^0.15x105 cells/well) and left for 24 hours for the cells to attach to the substrate. After this time, the cells were incubated with gallic acid in the above concentration range for 96 hours (solution volume in the well: 200 μΙ) and proliferation was assessed using the MTT test based on a tetrazolium salt (thiazole blue formazan), which is transformed into water-insoluble formazan crystals under the influence of active mitochondrial dehydrogenase. After incubation, the medium above the cells was removed and 100 μΙ of a mixture of MTT with medium (1:10) was added, and then the whole was incubated for 3 hours (37°C, 5% CO2). Then, 100 μΙ of acidic isopropanol (isopropanol containing 0.04 N HCl) was added to each well and the resulting formazan crystals were pipetted until uniform dispersion was achieved. Optical density of the dye was measured at 595 nm using a BioTek ELx808™ plate reader (BioTek Instruments, Inc., Winooski, VT, USA).

Statistical analysis was performed using analysis of variance, ANOVA using GraphPad Prism 7.05 software (La Jolla, CA, USA). Differences from control were considered statistically significant at *p< 0.05, **p< 0.01, and ***p< 0.001. Results were performed in six replicates and presented as mean+standard deviation (SD).

gallic acid human fibroblasts

500-1

400300-

* p < 0.05 ** p < 0.01 — p < 0.001

PL 246195 Β1

Figure 1. Cell proliferation (% relative to control) obtained as a result of cell contact with different concentrations (0.015%; 0.03%; 0.0625%; 0.125%; 0.25%; 0.5%) of human fibroblast cell line.

gallic acid human melanoma line

*p^ 0.05 p<0.01 ”p<0.001

Figure 2. Cell proliferation (% relative to control) obtained by contacting cells with different concentrations (0.015%; 0.03%; 0.0625%; 0.125%; 0.25%; 0.5%) of a human melanoma cell line.

Emulsion

* p < 0.05 “p < 0.01 ** p < 0.001 human melanoma cell line human fibroblast cell line

The results indicate a differentiation of cell proliferation of different lines depending on the concentration of gallic acid (Figure 1 and 2). On their basis, a 0.25% addition of gallic acid was selected as an active substance and emulsions were prepared. Cellular studies of the prepared emulsions showed a twofold increase in the proliferation of human fibroblast cells while inhibiting the proliferation of human melanoma cells.

Example II

The cosmetic skin care product contains:

- 0.125% gallic acid

- 3% humectant in the form of glycerin

- 1% phenoxyethanol

- 4% methyl glucose sesquistearate

- 3% cetyl alcohol

- 14% sunflower vegetable oil

- 7% squalane

- the rest up to 100% is water.

Example III

The cosmetic skin care product contains:

- 0.250% gallic acid

- 5% humectant in the form of propylene glycol

- 1.5% phenoxyethanol in the form of propylene glycol

- 6% methyl glucose sesquistearate

- 5% cetyl alcohol

- 17% rapeseed vegetable oil

- 9% squalane

- the rest up to 100% is water.

Example IV

The cosmetic skin care product contains:

- 0.190% gallic acid

- 4% humectant in the form of glycerin

- 1.2% phenoxyethanol

- 5% methyl glucose sesquistearate

- 4% cetyl alcohol

- 15.9% rapeseed vegetable oil

- 8% squalane

- the rest up to 100% is water.

Example V

The cosmetic skin care product contains:

- 0.21% gallic acid

- 4.5% humectant in the form of glycerin

- 1.4% phenoxyethanol in the form of Euxyl PE 9010, a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin

- 4.2% methyl glucose sesquistearate

- 3.1% cetyl alcohol

- 16.7% rapeseed vegetable oil

- 7.3% squalane

- the rest up to 100% is water.

Claims (1)

1. A cosmetic preparation for skin care, characterized in that it contains: - from 0.125% to 0.250% gallic acid - from 3% to 5% of humectant, preferably glycerin or propylene glycol - from 1% to 1.5% phenoxyethanol - from 4% to 6% methyl glucose sesquistearate - from 3% to 5% cetyl alcohol - from 14% to 17% of vegetable oil, preferably sunflower or rapeseed or linseed or nut or fruit or fruit seed - 7-9% squalane - the rest up to 100% is water.