KR20130118758A - Flavoring having reduced amount of terpene, producing method thereof and cosmetic composition having improved low temperature stability - Google Patents

Abstract

One or more hydrophilic solvents selected from ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, acetonitrile, propanol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, DMSO, and dimethyl formamide; And using a mixture of water and reducing the concentration of terpene in the fragrance, characterized in that the ratio of the hydrophilic solvent and water is 1: 9 to 9: 1, wherein the content of terpene included in the fragrance composition is reduced by 90% or more. Cosmetic composition comprising a fragrance composition, and a fragrance composition is reduced terpene so that the fragrance of the fragrance contained in the cosmetic composition is stably released at the refrigeration temperature, comprising less than 10% by weight terpene relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition A cosmetic composition characterized by the above-mentioned. The present invention provides a method for effectively removing the terpene included in the perfume, and can reduce the degree of separation of the perfume composition from the cosmetic composition by reducing the concentration of the terpene included in the perfume composition. The fragrance composition of which the concentration of the terpene of the present invention is reduced can stably emanate the fragrance at low temperature, so that the original fragrance of the fragrance can be reproduced in low temperature distribution, more preferably in refrigerated distribution cosmetics.

Description

Flavoring having reduced amount of terpene, producing method etc. and cosmetic composition having improved low temperature stability}

The present invention relates to a particular fragrance, a method for preparing the same, and a cosmetic composition stably releasing fragrance at a low temperature. More specifically, the present invention relates to a fragrance and cosmetic composition that stably expresses fragrance when refrigerated or stored at low temperature by preventing phase separation between the fragrance and the formulation at low temperature.

Generally, fragrances contained in cosmetics and the like are stably dispersed in the formulation by a surfactant due to their usefulness. However, at low or refrigeration temperatures other than room temperature, the efficacy of the surfactant is lowered, and thus, the perfume is not properly dispersed in the formulation, so that phase separation occurs and the fragrance is not stably emitted.

As a method of obtaining the fragrance substance from the raw materials, there are steam distillation extraction, solvent extraction, compression extraction and the like.

Steam distillation extraction is a method of distilling a compound having a wide boiling pressure at a temperature below the boiling point. Steam is continuously agglomerated into a distillation vessel, filled with water vapor, and the effluent heated water vapor is cooled and collected along with water by cooling through a water cooling tube. In general, steam distillation of a substance that is difficult to dissolve in water. Heated steam acts as a mobile phase (carrier gas), and in general, because the heat of condensation of water is high, the water cooling tube must have a long cooling time such as cooling in a coil form or by arranging coolers in series. It is one of the essential oil extraction methods of plant essential oils (essential oil).

The solvent extraction method is a method of extracting plants with organic solvents (petroleum ether, hexane, benzene, etc.) and supercritical fluid in a changed manner of adsorption extraction method to remove wax, dissolving the extraction solvent in ethanol and evaporating ethanol to remove the solvent. . The fragrance extracted in this way is called absolute (absolute). Some plants, such as vanilla, are simply extracted with ethanol and some are not directly removed. This is called tincture.

The fragrances obtained by the adsorption and extraction methods are extract, absolute, oleoresin, resinoid, tincture, and the like. Since it is not affected by heat like steam distillation, it is useful for obtaining subtle scents such as rose and jasmine.

In the compression extraction method, essential oils can be obtained by compressing oil cells by applying pressure to the shell containing essential oil from oil cells on the skin surface, such as citrus fruits. In order to obtain fragrance by compression extraction method, there are two methods of squeezing the shell directly and scraping the shell with steel. Now mechanization is taking place, and there is also a way to squeeze out with juice. Terpenes, such as L-limonene, are severely deteriorated due to heat, so they are cooled and worked to prevent the change of fragrance component due to heat generated when pressure is applied. It is called a cold press. Because there is no change by heat, it can keep the natural scent, but it is disadvantageous that the impurities are more likely to be mixed and the quality of the perfume is deteriorated faster than other perfume manufacturing methods.

The fragrance composition extracted by steam distillation extraction, solvent extraction, compression extraction, etc., which is a conventionally used fragrance extraction method as described above, has a disadvantage in that the fragrance composition is separated from the formulation when manufactured, stored, and used at low temperature, and thus does not achieve the general function of the fragrance. have. Even if the fragrance is stably dispersed in the formulation at room temperature, phase separation between the fragrance and the formulation occurs when the storage conditions are lowered at low temperatures.

Therefore, the present invention solves the above problems and provides a fragrance composition and a method for producing a fragrance composition that can be stably expressed in cosmetics and household goods that are manufactured, stored or used in a cold or refrigerated state.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention also allows the fragrance can be stably dispersed and flavored even at low temperatures through a method of removing the terpene, which is not stable at low temperatures and low solubility in water from the perfume.

And by using the fragrance with the terpene removed provides a refrigerated cosmetics that can ensure stability even at low temperature or refrigerated distribution, the fragrance can be reliably diverged.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention is at least one hydrophilic selected from ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, acetonitrile, propanol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, DMSO (dimethyl sulfoxide) and dimethyl formamide (N, N-dimethylformamide) Provided are methods for reducing the concentration of terpenes in perfumes using mixtures of solvents and water.

Terpenes are combustible unsaturated hydrocarbons and are generic terms for carbohydrates having the general formula (C ₅ H ₈ ) _n (n ≧ 2) and derivatives thereof. Terpenes conform to the isoprene law, which is a basic unit of isoprene molecules in structure, and is widely distributed in the plant system.

The present inventors consider the solubility or hydrophobicity of the fragrance in water affecting the hydrophobicity and fragrance ability. First, terpenes are hydroxy group (-OH), carboxyl group (-COOH), aldehyde group ( -Solubility in water is low because there is no functional group capable of hydrogen bonding such as CHO), and secondly, these terpenes are one of the fragrance components included in most cosmetics or household goods that use water, and thus they are scented at low temperatures. It is confirmed that it is a major cause of failure. In order to overcome this problem, a method of effectively removing terpenes from perfumes has been developed, and in the case of perfume compositions in which terpenes have been eliminated or reduced, a small amount of a surfactant or a surfactant-free formulation for stabilizing the perfume composition is used. It has been surprisingly invented that it has good mixing stability with other ingredients in cosmetics and has excellent fragrance effect. In particular, the effect of the cosmetic composition comprising such a perfume composition was excellent in the case of low-temperature or refrigerated circulation cosmetics.

As a fragrance before the terpene according to the present invention is removed or reduced, citrus notes, fruity notes, floral notes, herbal notes, spice based spices note), Woody note may be used. The fragrance material may be extracted from the raw material using steam distillation extraction, solvent extraction, compression extraction, etc., if the method can extract the fragrance from the raw material in addition to the above method is not particularly limited.

The citrus flavor (Citrus note) can be extracted using orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit or a mixture thereof, the fruity flavor (Fruity note) using apple, pineapple, grapes, plum or a mixture thereof Can be extracted. The floral notes may be extracted using bergamot, neroli, roses, jasmine, ylang-ylang and mixtures thereof, and the herbal notes are angelica, caraway, basil, fennel, It can be extracted using eucalyptus, rosemary, lavender, peppermint or mixtures thereof. In addition, the spice-based spices (Spicy note) can be extracted using nutmac, cardamom, coriander, cinnamon, clove, vanilla or a mixture thereof, the woody note is sandalwood, cedarwood It can be extracted using a patchy or a mixture thereof.

The fragrance material is mixed with a mixed solvent of one or more hydrophilic solvents and water selected from ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, acetonitrile, propanol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) and dimethyl formamide (N, N-dimethylformamide). do. The terpene is separated from the perfume by phase separation while repeating stirring and standing.

The solvent may be used in a weight ratio of 1: 9 to 9: 1 with the fragrance material, since the strength of the fragrance is too low, the utilization value of the fragrance is too low, and the solvent may be used in a weight ratio of the fragrance material used. You can adjust the ratio. The ratio of the solvent and the fragrance material may be preferably used in a ratio of 1: 5 to 5: 1, more preferably 1: 3 to 3: 1.

In the above method of removing or reducing the terpene according to the present invention, stirring and / or standing are preferably performed at a low temperature (for example, -10 to 10 ° C) in order to obtain a perfume having high low temperature stability. . That is, the lower the temperature, the lower the solubility of the terpene in water, so that it is more soluble in hydrophilic solvents rather than water, it is possible to finally obtain a high-temperature stable fragrance.

Thus, stirring and / or standing may preferably be carried out at -10 to 10 ° C, and more preferably at -5 to 4 ° C.

The method of reducing the concentration of terpenes according to the present invention is characterized in that the addition of an inorganic salt and / or an organic acid / salt (preferably an inorganic salt and an organic acid / salt) is repeated and stirring and setting are repeated to remove the terpene contained in the perfume material can do. When both are used, the terpene is more effective in removing and maintaining flavor than in the case of using an inorganic salt or an organic acid / salt.

The inorganic salt is preferably a purified salt. Specifically, at least one of sodium salts, calcium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts, and mixtures thereof may be used, and sodium salts may be preferably used depending on the type of flavoring substance. .

At least one selected from citric acid, malic acid and succinic acid may be used as the organic acid.

The inorganic salt or organic acid / organic acid salt is estimated to increase the interfacial tension between the perfume and the solvent to effectively remove the terpene included in the perfume, but the present invention is not limited to this theoretical guess.

The inorganic salts, organic acids / salts or mixtures thereof may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 2 wt% based on the weight of the mixture containing the flavoring material and the solvent. When the content of the salt and the organic acid is high, it is difficult to extract the perfume component recognized as a fragrance, in particular, because the organic acid affects the acidity (pH) of the perfume composition.

The present invention also provides a cosmetic composition comprising a perfume composition prepared by one of the above production methods according to the present invention.

The present invention also provides a perfume composition with a reduced terpene content, more specifically a 90% reduced, more preferably 95% reduced, even more preferred content of a terpene in a tertiary composition. Provided is a cosmetic composition comprising a perfume composition that can be stably secured and stably secured during a refrigerated or cold distribution process, which is reduced by 98%.

In the present invention, the refrigerated circulation is meant to be distributed and / or stored at 0-10 ℃, the cold distribution is at a temperature lower than room temperature, preferably 11-20 ℃, more preferably at 11-15 ℃ It means distribution and / or storage.

As a method for removing or reducing the terpene included in the fragrance substance, the inorganic salt / organic acid (salt) according to the present invention is preferable in view of the characteristics and ease of manufacture used in the cosmetic composition, but in addition to the polar solvent in the presence of a rotating magnetic field. The removal method using the method, the method of removing the terpene by contacting the solid adsorbent and the flavoring material may be used. That is, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising (i) a method of effectively removing or reducing terpenes in perfumes for use in cosmetic compositions, and (ii) a perfume composition in which terpenes are reduced or eliminated. The above (ii) invention (although the above (i) invention is preferred) is not limited in scope by the above (i) invention.

The perfume composition according to the present invention may be included in any cosmetic composition in which the perfume composition may be contained. The fragrance composition of which the concentration of the terpene is reduced may be stably dispersed even in low temperature, so that the fragrance may be stably dispersed even when the cosmetic composition is refrigerated / cold storage or refrigerated / cold distribution.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a stable aroma even when refrigerated or at low temperature storage / distribution, that is, the extent to which the fragrance is stably dispersed in the composition and the extent of the fragrance is appropriate in view of the purpose of using the fragrance.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be, but is not limited to, soft cosmetics, nutrient cosmetics, essences, creams, gels, or formulations of packs.

The present invention also includes a fragrance composition is reduced terpene so that the fragrance of the fragrance contained in the cosmetic composition is stably released at the refrigeration temperature, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises a terpene 10 wt% or less relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition It provides a cosmetic composition.

The present invention also provides a cosmetic composition comprising a perfume composition with reduced or eliminated terpenes, excellent in dispersion stability among cosmetic compositions substantially free of surfactant.

The present invention provides a method for effectively removing the terpene included in the perfume at low temperature using a solvent mixed with a hydrophilic solvent and water. The present invention also provides a method for further improving the degree of elimination of terpenes using inorganic salts and / or organic acids (salts).

The present invention also provides a technique for reducing the content of the terpene contained in the perfume material so that the perfume composition can be stably dispersed in the cosmetic composition to be refrigerated.

The perfume composition of which the concentration of the terpene of the present invention is reduced can stably odor even at low temperatures and / or in an environment substantially free of surfactants, so that the original flavor of the perfume can be reproduced as it is in the refrigerated distribution cosmetics.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail to facilitate understanding of the present invention. However, the embodiments according to the present invention can be modified into various other forms, and the scope of the present invention should not be construed as being limited to the following embodiments. Embodiments of the invention are provided to more fully describe the present invention to those skilled in the art.

Example  1. Terpene Removal Using Organic Acids and Salts

Various characteristics of fragrance Four kinds of fragrance substances were prepared by using general fragrance extraction method by combining citrus, floral, herb, woody and spice-based fragrances.

The mixture comprising 10% by weight of the perfume substance combination, 40% by weight of water, 49% by weight of ethanol and 0.1% by weight of citric acid was first stirred at −4 ° C. for 24 hours, and only the solution separated from the oil layer was separated. Four types of low-temperature stable perfumes were prepared.

After the secondary low temperature stability perfume 10% by weight, 55% by weight of water, 34% by weight of ethanol, 0.5% by weight of refined salt for 24 hours at 0 ℃ secondary separation only the solution separated from the oil layer to the secondary low temperature stability perfume Four kinds were prepared.

Combinations of flavors used in the above examples are shown in Table 1 below.

No. division Perfume name Spice Combination 1 Spice Combination 2 Spice Combination 3 Spice Combinations 4 One Citrus Lemon Oil 40 40 - 13 2 Orange oil 15 - 15 5 3 Lime oil - 30 15 20 4 Grapefruit oil 10 10 - 5 5 Floral Rose oil 5 - 35 15 6 Jasmine oil - 5 20 10 7 Herb Caraway Oil 15 5 5 - 8 Chamomile Oil 10 7 4 5 9 Woody Sandalwood oil 5 3 One 25 10 Spicy Clove Leaf - - 5 2 Sum 100.0 100 100.0 100.0

Example  2. Preparation of Evaluation Sample for Low Temperature Stability

To evaluate the stability, the fragrance was evaluated by general lotion base, and 12 kinds of general fragrance substances, 4 primary low temperature stability fragrances, and 4 secondary low temperature stability fragrances were evaluated for 4 weeks at 4 ° C. over time for 4 weeks. Evaluation was conducted to verify low temperature stability. The fragrance refraction was 0.20% by weight to prepare a sample.

Samples for four general fragrance combinations were divided into Sample 1, Sample 2, Sample 3, and Sample 4. Samples for four primary low-temperature stable perfumes were Sample 5, Sample 6, Sample 7, and Sample 8. The 4 samples of the secondary low temperature stability fragrance were named sample 9, sample 10, sample 11, and sample 12.

Table 2 shows the contents of the sample and the flavor combination.

No. division Sample 1 Sample 1 Sample 1 Sample 1 One Spice Combination 1 0.20% 2 Spice Combination 2 0.20% 3 Spice Combination 3 0.20% 4 Spice Combinations 4 0.20%

No. division Sample 5 Sample 6 Sample 7 Sample 8 One Spice combination 1-1 0.20% 2 Spice combination 2-1 tea 0.20% 3 Spice Association 3-1 0.20% 4 Spice Association 4-1 0.20%

No. division Sample 9 Sample 10 Sample 11 Sample 12 One Spice combination 1-2 0.20% 2 Spice Combination 0.20% 3 Spice Association 0.20% 4 Spice combination 4-2 0.20%

Experimental Example  1. Low temperature stability

Samples prepared by the above method were evaluated for phase separation and usability after 4 hours evaluation at 4 ° C. The degree of phase separation was divided by a band of perfume formed at the upper end of the sample over time.

Tables 5 to 7 below show the results of evaluating the degree of phase separation in 12 samples at 4 ° C. for 4 weeks.

No. division Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 One Phase separation degree △ △ X X

No. division Sample 5 Sample 6 Sample 7 Sample 8 One Phase separation degree ◎ ◎ ○ ○

No. division Sample 9 Sample 10 Sample 11 Sample 12 One Phase separation degree ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎

* division :

◎: Very good, no layer separation, smooth sample surface

○: Generally good, no layer separation but slight roughness on specimen surface

(Triangle | delta): It is a bad thing generally, there is a little layer separation, and a little roughness on a sample surface

X: Very bad, layered and rough on sample surface

As a result of evaluating low temperature stability, in case of samples not treated with citric acid (Samples 1 to 4), it was confirmed that the stability of the flavor was not sufficiently secured at low temperature. It was found that the stability of the fragrance in the secondary is better.

Experimental Example  2. Of usability  evaluation

The sensory evaluation was measured by sensory evaluation. The subjects were 19 general healthy men and women aged 25 to 40 years. The evaluation room and the sample preparation room were separated so that the evaluator did not have prior knowledge of the sample.

Evaluation of the feeling was carried out by a five-point grading method, and feeling evaluation was conducted using three samples as a set. The comparison set is based on the fragrance such as (Sample 1, Sample 5, Sample 9), (Sample 2, Sample 6, Sample 10), (Sample 3, Sample 7, Sample 11), (Sample 4, Sample 8, Sample 12), etc. It was carried out for each low temperature stability treatment. The analysis of the evaluation result was statistically analyzed by T-test analysis to prove the effect of the invention.

Evaluation result 4 ℃, 4 weeks

age sample
One sample
5 sample
9 sample
2 sample
6 sample
10 sample
3 sample
7 sample
11 sample
4 sample
8 sample
12 28.1 2.22 3.00 3.61 2.06 2.78 3.83 2.00 2.83 3.56 1.61 3.06 3.72

Significance test result (T-test)

Sample 5 Sample 9 Sample 6 Sample 10 Sample 7 Sample 11 Sample 8 Sample 12 Sample 1 0.006 0.000 Sample 5 0.017 Sample 2 0.015 0.000 Sample 6 0.001 Sample 3 0.000 0.000 Sample 7 0.003 Sample 4 0.000 0.000 Sample 8 0.042

As a result of the evaluation, as shown in Table 8, the better the low temperature stability, the better the feeling of use. This is because the stability of the fragrance itself reflects the characteristics of the fragrance well, but because of the homogeneity of the formulation, it was found to spread well when applying or rubbing the cosmetics, and the overall physical properties were better when used.

In addition, the results of the significance test between the comparative products showed statistically significant.

Claims (11)

At least one hydrophilic solvent selected from the group consisting of ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, acetonitrile, propanol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, DMSO and dimethylformamide; And
Using a mixture of water,
The ratio of the hydrophilic solvent and water is 1: 9 to 9: 1 weight ratio method for reducing the concentration of terpenes in the fragrance. The method according to claim 1, wherein the method is characterized in that the mixture of the hydrophilic solvent and water together with the fragrance is mixed and phase separated at a temperature of -10 to 10 ° C. The method of claim 2, wherein the mixing and phase separation further comprise (a) an inorganic salt, or (b) an organic acid or an organic acid salt, or both. The method of claim 3, wherein the inorganic salt is at least one selected from sodium salts, calcium salts, potassium salts and magnesium salts. The method of claim 3, wherein the organic acid is at least one selected from citric acid, malic acid, and succinic acid. Cosmetic composition comprising a perfume composition prepared according to the method of any one of claims 1 to 5. Wherein the content of terpene contained in the perfume composition is reduced by 90% or more. 8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the cosmetic composition is refrigerated or cold. A perfume composition comprising terpene reduced so that the fragrance contained in the cosmetic composition stably dissipates at a refrigeration temperature, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises terpene in an amount of 10 wt% or less based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein the cosmetic composition is refrigerated or cold. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein the refrigeration is 0 ° C to 10 ° C.