KR20080111790A - Wrinkle improvement cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having an anti-wrinkle effect by photoaging by containing xanthorrhizol represented by the following Chemical Formula 1, which is isolated from a Curcuma xanthorrhiza extract, in a conventional cosmetic. The improved cosmetic composition is characterized in that it contains xantolizol having the ability to inhibit collagen degrading enzyme-1 (MMP-1, matrix metalloproteinase-1) and the ability to synthesize new collagen (type-1 procollagen) as an active ingredient. The cosmetic composition containing the xantholizole of the present invention as an active ingredient can be very useful for the treatment or prevention of wrinkle formation by photoaging.

[Formula 1]

Description

Anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition

1 is a graph showing collagen degrading enzyme-1 inhibitory activity by Curcuma xanthorrhiza extract of the present invention.

2 is a graph showing collagen synthesis ability by the Curcuma xanthorrhiza extract of the present invention.

3 is a graph showing collagen degrading enzyme-1 inhibitory activity by xanthorrhizol of the present invention.

4 is a graph showing collagen synthesis ability by xanthorrhizol of the present invention.

The present invention relates to an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition containing Curcuma xanthorrhiza extract and xanthorrhizol, and more particularly, containing xanthorzol represented by Chemical Formula 1 as an active ingredient. It relates to a wrinkle improvement cosmetic composition.

Wrinkles are one of the natural aging phenomena of the skin, which are usually formed by repeated muscle movements over long periods of time. Skin aging is largely divided into natural aging or endogenous aging and external aging, and natural aging is due to genetic causes, which is difficult to control, but external aging is due to environmental causes, so artificial control is easy. Therefore, studies to prevent external aging have been continued, and in particular, research on preventing wrinkle formation caused by exogenous photoaging due to long-term ultraviolet exposure has been focused (Gilcher st BA, J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 1989). : 21: 610-613).

The clinical characteristics of photoaging, which is exogenous skin aging, are that the skin becomes rough and elastic, irregular pigmentation occurs, and deep wrinkles increase. In particular, the effects of photoaging have been found to be important in the formation of facial wrinkles, such as facial and tofu, which are important for cosmetics. As a basic research for the development of anti-wrinkle cosmetics, research on photoaging and wrinkle formation using human skin or animal models has been actively conducted. . In regard to photoaging and wrinkle formation, many studies have reported basic physiological metabolic changes such as synthesis and degradation of collagen, a major component of skin (Lavker RM, Blackwell science Inc., 1995: 123-135).

External factors affecting skin aging are caused by wind, temperature, humidity, tobacco smoke, pollution, ultraviolet rays, etc. In particular, aging caused by ultraviolet rays is called photoaging. Exposure to high amounts of ultraviolet light produces high levels of reactive oxygen species in the skin and disrupts the enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidant defenses of the skin. As a result, collagen, a major protein of skin tissue, is significantly reduced, and collagen degrading enzyme-1 (MMP-1, matrix metalloproteinase-1) has an important effect on collagen reduction. Collagen Degrading Enzyme-1 is an enzyme that is involved in the decomposition of extracellular matrix and basement membrane. Collagen degrading enzyme is significantly degraded by increasing collagen degrading enzyme-1 activity in the skin by UV irradiation. -1 have been reported to play an important role in the formation of wrinkles by influencing collagen breakdown of the dermis (Sim GS, Kim JH et al., Kor. J. Biotechnol. Bioeng., 2005: 20 (1) ): 40-45).

The active skin wrinkle improvement ingredients currently being developed cannot be used as some cosmetic ingredients or are very unstable, and it is not easy to transfer to the skin, so a special stabilization system and delivery system are needed, and the effect of improving wrinkles is not visible. Recently, attention has been focused on skin protection agents containing retinoids. Currently, retinoids are used as a means to solve photoaging phenomena such as wrinkles, skin thickening, sagging, and decreased elasticity, which are the result of daylight accumulation. It is used. However, retinoids are very unstable compounds and are sensitive to ultraviolet rays, moisture, heat, and oxygen, and easily cause chemical changes. Therefore, research is focused on developing active ingredients derived from natural products to solve them.

Accordingly, the present inventors searched for a long time to find a natural-derived compound that can be effectively used for wrinkle improvement. As a result, xanthorrhizol separated and purified from Curcuma xanthorrhiza extract has an excellent effect on wrinkle improvement. The present invention was completed by identifying the following.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide an anti-wrinkle effect of xantolizol separated and purified from curcuma xantoriza extract and a cosmetic composition containing the same.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles containing xantholizole represented by the following formula (1) as an active ingredient.

[Formula 1]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present invention is characterized by providing a novel use of xanthorrhizol isolated and purified from Curcuma xanthorrhiza .

  Curcuma zantorija is a traditional medicinal plant known as temu lawak or Javanese turmeric, which is known as the Zingiberaceae plant. , terpenoid compounds such as β-turmerone and xanthorrhizol, 7-30% essential oil, 30-40% carbohydrate, and curcuminoid, 0.02-2.0% aromatic pigment (Lin SC et al., Am J. Chin.Med., 1995: 23: 243-254).

Xantorisol is a type of sesquiterpene that is a representative constituent found in Curcuma xantoriza. Xantorizole is an antimicrobial agent for oral microorganisms (Hwang, JK et al., Fitoterapia, 2000: 71: 321-323; Hwang, JK et al., Planta Medica, 2000: 66: 196-197) Inhibitory activity of toxic effects (Kim, SH et al., Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, 2004: 196: 346-355; Kim, SH et al., Food and Chemical Toxicology, 2005: 43: 117-122), inhibiting cancer metastasis Action (Choi, MA et al., Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun., 2005: 326: 210-217) and the like are known. However, the wrinkle improvement effect of the xantholizole of the present invention has not been reported so far.

As a method of extracting Curcuma zantorija, an organic solvent extraction method, a supercritical fluid extraction method, a microwave extraction method, and an ultrasonic extraction method may be used as disclosed in Korean Patent Application Publication No. 2000-0000342 and PCT Patent No. WO88 / 05304. . Separation and purification of xanthozol from the Curcuma xantoriza extract has been disclosed in Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2000-0073295.

The curcuma zantoriza extract and xantholizole of the present invention disclosed above are used to increase the production of collagen degrading enzyme-1 (MMP-1, matrix metalloproteinase-1) in human skin fibroblasts by ultraviolet irradiation. Dependently and increases collagen (type-1 procollagen) synthesis.

In addition, the present invention is characterized by a cosmetic composition containing curcuma zantoriza extract and zantorazole.

Curcuma Xantoriza extract and Xantorizol can be added to all cosmetics related to wrinkle improvement such as softening cream, nutrient cream, nourishing cream, massage cream, essence, and pack, and the amount is 0.005 based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is preferable that it is -10 weight%, preferably 0.01-5 weight%. When the concentration is less than 0.005% by weight, it is difficult to obtain an antiwrinkle effect, and when blended in an amount of 10% by weight or more, the increase of the antiwrinkle effect is insignificant compared to the amount used, and it is uneconomical in terms of stability of the composition.

As described above, the curcuma zantoriza extract and xantholizole of the present invention are excellent in inhibiting the production of collagen degrading enzyme-1 by ultraviolet irradiation and synthesizing collagen. Accordingly, the present invention provides an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition containing the curcuma zantoriza extract and the zantorazole represented by Chemical Formula 1 as an active ingredient. Preparation of the Curcuma Xantoriza extract is as described above.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples.

However, the following examples are merely to illustrate the invention, but the content of the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

<Example 1> Cell proliferation effect

MTT assay using fibroblasts [3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide reduction method] was performed to examine the cell proliferation effect of assaying the wrinkle improvement effect of skin.

First, human normal fibroblasts are dispensed into 2 × 10 ⁵ cells in each well of a 96-well plate, so that the DM containing 10% fetal bovine serum is contained. (DMEM) First incubate for 24 hours at 37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ conditions. After the first culturing step, the sample of the present invention is treated by concentration and replaced with a medium without serum (serum), followed by secondary culture for 48 hours. After the second incubation step, 100 μl of MTT solution was added to the medium and left for 4 hours, and then the medium was removed. 100 μl of dimethyl sulfoxide solution was added to each well, followed by stirring for 20 minutes, and the absorbance was measured at 540 nm using a microplate reader.

Experimental Example 1 Cell Proliferation Effect of Curcuma Xantoriza Extract and Xantorizol

According to the method of Example 1, the cell proliferation effect of Curcuma zantorija ethanol extract and zantorazole was measured. The control group in the MTT test was set to the culture medium without the sample, the absorbance was measured, green tea extract and epigallocatechin gallate (epigallocatechin-3-gallate) known to have skin wrinkle improvement effect , EGCG) was set as a comparison group, and the results are shown in Table 1 below.

Proliferation effect (%) Concentration (㎍ / ml) Curcuma Xanturiza Ethanol Extract Xantorisol Green tea extract EGCG 0 100 100 100 100 0.001 101 101 102 101 0.01 101 105 102 106 0.1 108 110 104 108 One 119 125 117 121 10 127 127 120 123 50 132 135 127 128

As shown in Table 1, it was confirmed that the curcuma zantorija ethanol extract and xantholizole of the present invention is superior to the cell proliferation effect than the comparison group.

<Example 2> Collagen Biosynthesis-1 and Collagen Biosynthesis by Ultraviolet Irradiation of Fibroblasts

Measure

The fibroblasts are incubated in a 60 mm dish at a concentration of 2 × 10 ⁵ cells / ml and incubated until reaching 85% level. After the medium was removed before UV (UV) irradiation, the medium was washed with PBS to remove the rum component in the medium, and the UV was irradiated at a dose of 20 mJ / cm ² . Fibroblasts were irradiated with UV light and the samples were treated and cultured for 48 hours, and the expression levels of collagenase-1 and collagen were measured.

Western blot was used to measure the expression levels of collagen degrading enzyme-1 and collagen biosynthesis, and the total protein amount in the culture medium in which fibroblasts were cultured was quantified using the Bradford method.

The extracted protein was electrophoresed on 10% SDS-polyacrylamide gel and then transferred to the nitrocellulose membrane. The membrane is blocked at room temperature for 1 hour using 5% skim milk so that the membrane is no longer contaminated by other unknown proteins. Collagen degrading enzyme-1 (MMP-1) and collagen (type-) 1 procollagen) primary antibody was diluted 1: 1000 in a blocking solution and reacted at room temperature for 2 hours. After the first antibody reaction, the solution was shaken with TBST (Tris-buffer Saline Tween 20) three times for 10 minutes. A secondary antibody that recognizes primary antibodies of collagen degrading enzyme-1 (MMP-1) and collagen (type-1 procollagen) is diluted 1: 1000 in 5% skim milk powder and reacted at room temperature for 1 hour. As in the case of the primary antibody, the solution was shaken with tris-buffer saline Tween 20 (TBST) three times for 10 minutes and then developed by chemiluminescence.

Experimental Example 2 Collagen Degrading Enzyme-1 and Curcuma Xantoriza Ethanol Extract Treatment

Measurement of collagen expression

In order to determine the collagenase-1 inhibitory activity and collagen synthesis effect of Curcuma zantorija ethanol extract, the expression level was investigated using the Western blot method of Example 2, and when Curcuma zantorija ethanol extract was treated. It was confirmed that collagenase-1 was inhibited in a concentration-dependent manner and collagen synthesis was also increased in a concentration-dependent manner. The results are shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, respectively. As shown in FIG. 1, when curcuma zantorija ethanol extract was treated, it showed 16% at 0.01 μg / ml, 28% at 0.1 μg / ml, and 78% at 0.5 μg / ml. Also, as shown in FIG. 2, the Curcuma zantorija ethanol extract showed a collagen synthesis promoting effect of 24% at 0.01 μg / ml, 127% at 0.1 μg / ml and 196% at 0.5 μg / ml. .

Experimental Example 3 Collagen Degrading Enzyme-1 and Curcuma Xantoriza Hexane Extract Treatment

Measurement of collagen expression

In order to determine the collagenase-1 inhibitory activity and collagen synthesis effect against Curcuma zantoriza hexane extract, the expression level was investigated using the Western blot method of Example 2, and Curcuma zantoriza ethanol in Experimental Example 2 Collagen degrading enzyme-1 showed 75% inhibition at 0.5 ㎍ / ml and collagen synthesis increased 191% at the same concentration.

Experimental Example 4 Determination of Collagen Degrading Enzyme-1 and Collagen Expression Levels

In order to measure the collagen degrading enzyme-1 inhibitory activity and collagen synthesis effect of xantholizol, the expression level was examined using the western blot method of Example 2, and the concentration of collagen degrading enzyme-1 when Xantolizol was treated And collagen synthesis also increased in a concentration dependent manner. The results are shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, respectively. As shown in FIG. 3, xantholizole showed 18% collagenase-1 inhibitory activity at 0.001 μM, 68% at 0.01 μM, and 92% at 0.1 μM, compared to 0.1 μM at the same concentration. When compared with EGCG showed a 72% collagenase-1 inhibitory activity, it was confirmed that the activity by the xantholizol treatment is high. In addition, as shown in Figure 4 when treated with xantholizol showed a collagen synthesis promoting effect of 57% at 0.01 μM, 86% at 0.1 μM, when compared with the same concentration of 0.1 μM 65% compared to EGCG group Showed collagen synthesis promoting activity and confirmed that the activity by xantholizole treatment was high. Therefore, xantolizole of the present invention was finally confirmed to have higher activity than EGCG, which is known to have an effect on wrinkle improvement.

<Example 3-6> Preparation of lotion containing curcuma zantoriza extract

A lotion having the composition of Example 3-6 was prepared using Curcuma zantorija ethanol extract. The extracts were dissolved in a certain amount of ethanol in four concentrations of 10.0, 1.0, 0.1, and 0.01% by weight.

Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Crude extract 10.0% Crude extract 1.0% Crude extract 0.1% Crude extract 0.01% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0%  Potassium Phosphate 0.1% Potassium Phosphate 0.1% Potassium Phosphate 0.1% Potassium Phosphate 0.1% Sodium Diphosphate 0.05% Sodium Diphosphate 0.05% Sodium Diphosphate 0.05% Sodium Diphosphate 0.05% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Ethanol (96%) 20% Ethanol (96%) 20% Ethanol (96%) 20% Ethanol (96%) 20% Purified water balance Purified water balance Purified water balance Purified water balance Preservative balance Preservative balance Preservative balance Preservative balance

 The weight was then adjusted as ethanol and mixed evenly.

<Example 7-10> Preparation of Cream Containing Curcuma Xantoriza Extract

A cream having the composition of Example 7-10 was prepared using Curcuma Xantoriza ethanol extract. Firstly, ①-⑤ material is dissolved at 75-80 ℃, and ⑥-⑨ material is melted at the same temperature. Emulsify ⑥-⑨ material into ①-⑤ material, add crude extracts at the concentrations of 10.0, 1.0, 0.1, and 0.01%, and remix them.

Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Crude extract 10.0% Crude extract 1.0% Crude extract 0.1% Crude extract 0.01% ① Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% ② Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% ③ Lauryl chloride sulfide 8.0% Lauryl chloride sulfide 8.0% Lauryl chloride sulfide 8.0% Lauryl chloride sulfide 8.0% ④ Stearin 5.4% Stearin 5.4% Stearin 5.4% Stearin 5.4% ⑤ Mineral oil 4.5% Mineral oil 4.5% Mineral oil 4.5% Mineral oil 4.5% ⑥ Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% ⑦ Cetyl alcohol 6.5% Cetyl alcohol 6.5% Cetyl alcohol 6.5% Cetyl alcohol 6.5% ⑧ Purified water balance Purified water balance Purified water balance Purified water balance ⑨ Preservative balance Preservative balance Preservative balance Preservative balance

<Example 11-14> Preparation of Lotion Containing Xanthozol

Using the xantholizole of the present invention, a lotion having the composition of Example 11-14 was prepared. Xantolizole is dissolved in a predetermined amount of water at four concentrations of 5.0, 0.1, 0.01, and 0.001%, and then mixed with an aqueous solution of phosphoric acid. Mix ethanol, glycerin, and propylene glycol, mix in the mixture prepared above, add fragrance and preservative, adjust the weight as water, and mix evenly.

Example 11 Example 12 Example 13 Example 14 Xantolizol 5.0% Xantolizole 0.1% Xantolizole 0.01% Xanthozol 0.001% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0%  Potassium Phosphate 0.1% Potassium Phosphate 0.1% Potassium Phosphate 0.1% Potassium Phosphate 0.1% Sodium Diphosphate 0.05% Sodium Diphosphate 0.05% Sodium Diphosphate 0.05% Sodium Diphosphate 0.05% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Ethanol (96%) 20% Ethanol (96%) 20% Ethanol (96%) 20% Ethanol (96%) 20% Purified water balance Purified water balance Purified water balance Purified water balance Preservative balance Preservative balance Preservative balance Preservative balance

<Example 15-18> Preparation of a Cream Containing Xanthozol

A cream having the composition of Examples 15-18 was prepared using the xantholizole of the present invention. Firstly, ①-⑤ material is dissolved at 75-80 ℃, and ⑥-⑨ material is melted at the same temperature. Emulsify ⑥-⑨ materials into ①-⑤ materials, add xantholizol at concentrations of 5.0, 0.1, 0.01, and 0.001%, respectively, and remix them. Finally, add spices and quantify with purified water.

Example 15 Example 16 Example 17 Example 18 Xantolizol 5.0% Xantolizole 0.1% Xantolizole 0.01% Xanthozol 0.001% ① Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% Glycerin 2.0% ② Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% Propylene Glycol 2.0% ③ Lauryl chloride sulfide 8.0% Lauryl chloride sulfide 8.0% Lauryl chloride sulfide 8.0% Lauryl chloride sulfide 8.0% ④ Stearin 5.4% Stearin 5.4% Stearin 5.4% Stearin 5.4% ⑤ Mineral oil 4.5% Mineral oil 4.5% Mineral oil 4.5% Mineral oil 4.5% ⑥ Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% Fragrance 0.02% ⑦ Cetyl alcohol 6.5% Cetyl alcohol 6.5% Cetyl alcohol 6.5% Cetyl alcohol 6.5% ⑧ Purified water balance Purified water balance Purified water balance Purified water balance ⑨ Preservative balance Preservative balance Preservative balance Preservative balance

Experimental Example 5 Determination of Collagen Synthesis of Curcuma Xantoriza Extract-Containing Composition

( In vivo )

The hairless mouse was irradiated with UV rays once daily for 4 weeks (UV 20 mJ / cm ² ), and then 100 ml of the Curcuma Xantoriza ethanol extract-containing composition of Example 3-10 was applied for 4 weeks each day for 4 weeks. After application, the biopsy was performed and histologically measured the formation of collagen. At this time, the amount of newly produced collagen was measured by image analysis after immunostaining. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

Collagen Growth Rate (%) No treatment 0 toilet water Example 3 34.8 toilet water Example 4 21.2 toilet water Example 5 8.4 toilet water Example 6 3.5 cream Example 7 35.7 cream Example 8 23.1 cream Example 9 10.2 cream Example 10 4.1

As shown in Table 2, as the content of Curcuma zantorija ethanol extract was increased, the collagen synthesis amount was increased, and it was confirmed that the cream had higher activity than the lotion. This is because the cream has a higher residual power than the lotion.

Experimental Example 6 Determination of collagen synthesis amount of xantholizole containing composition ( In vivo )

After irradiating the hairless mouse with UV rays once daily for 4 weeks (UV 20 mJ / cm ² ), the xantholizole-containing composition of Example 11-18 was applied to the back area for 4 weeks each day for 4 weeks. Biopsy was performed to histologically determine collagen formation. At this time, the amount of newly produced collagen was measured by image analysis after immunostaining. The results are shown in Table 3 below.

Collagen Growth Rate (%) No treatment 0 toilet water Example 11 75.4 toilet water Example 12 32.7 toilet water Example 13 18.3 toilet water Example 14 8.9 cream Example 15 77.6 cream Example 16 38.1 cream Example 17 20.8 cream Example 18 9.0

As shown in Table 3, the content of xantholizole increased as collagen synthesis amount increased, and it was confirmed that the cream had higher activity than cream lotion. This is because the cream has a higher residual power than the lotion.

As described above, the curcuma xanthorrhiza extract of the present invention, xanthorrhizol and the cosmetic composition containing the same are important factors related to wrinkle formation collagen degrading enzyme-1 (MMP-1, matrix By inhibiting the expression of metalloproteinase-1), it is possible to promote the production of new collagen (type-1 procollagen) to improve wrinkles by photoaging. Therefore, the cosmetic composition containing the curcuma zantoriza extract of the present invention and zantorazole as an active ingredient can be very useful for the treatment or prevention of wrinkle improvement by photoaging.

Claims (9)

Collagen degrading enzyme-1 inhibitor (matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibitor) using the xanthorrhizol represented by the formula (1) as an active ingredient. [Formula 1]

Collagen synthesizing agent (xanthorrhizol) represented by the formula (1) as an active ingredient (collagen synthesizing agent). [Formula 1]

      A cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles containing xanthorrhizol represented by the following Chemical Formula 1 as an active ingredient.       [Formula 1]

The cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles according to claim 3, wherein the xantholizole is extracted from Curcuma xanthorrhiza . The cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles according to claim 3, wherein the xantholizole is contained in an amount of 0.005 to 5% by weight based on the total cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles according to any one of claims 3 to 5, wherein the cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles is a softening longevity, astringent longevity, nourishing longevity, nutrition cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, eye essence, cleansing cream, Cleansing foam, cleansing water, packs, gels, powders, body lotions, body creams, body oils and body essences of any one selected from the group consisting of a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles. A cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles containing Curcuma zantoriza extract as an active ingredient. The cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles according to claim 7, wherein the curcuma zantorija extract is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total cosmetic composition. The method according to any one of claims 7 to 8, wherein the cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles is softening longevity, astringent longevity, nourishing longevity, nutrition cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, eye essence, cleansing cream, Cleansing foam, cleansing water, packs, gels, powders, body lotions, body creams, body oils and body essences of any one selected from the group consisting of a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles.

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