KR20050091162A - Methods for manufacturing nanoemulsion and liposomes containing vitamin a, b, c, e and their derivatives and cosmetics containing it - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for preparing nanoemulsions and liposomes stably containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof, and to cosmetic compositions containing the same, more specifically vitamins A, B, C, E and their The derivatives are heated and dissolved together with caprylic / capric triglycerides, and then dissolved and mixed with unsaturated lecithin or saturated lecithin through a cooling step, and mixed with glycerol and alcohol and standardized with purified water, followed by high pressure emulsification. Provided are cosmetic compositions containing nanoemulsions and liposomes. In addition, the nanoemulsion and liposomes stably containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof are 0.1-50% by weight, more preferably 0.5-30% by weight, based on the cosmetic composition and its preparation. Provide a method.

Description

Methods for manufacturing nanoemulsions and liposomes containing vitamin A, B, C, tooth and their derivatives and cosmetic compositions containing them A, B, C, E and their derivatives and cosmetics containing it }

The present invention relates to a method for preparing nanoemulsions and liposomes containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof, and to cosmetic compositions containing the same, and more particularly to vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having excellent stability over time and excellent skin moisturizing, anti-aging and elasticity maintaining, characterized in that it is prepared by encapsulation in a lecithin phospholipid vehicle at an optimal ratio.

Due to the rapid industrialization, environmental pollution is getting serious and attention is being paid to the harmful effects of such pollution on the human body. In particular, active oxygen is considered as a major factor of aging and cancer, and is known to be largely generated by external and internal factors. External factors are caused by various types of nitrogen oxides and oxygen oxides such as nitrogen dioxide and ozone, which are caused by environmental pollution, and another factor is ultraviolet rays.

Ultraviolet rays generate various kinds of free radicals, which cause cell damage and aging. In addition to such external factors, free radicals are generated by spontaneous reactions in vivo, but there are defense mechanisms to remove these free radicals in vivo, but oxidative stress damages cells and consequently ages. Known. For this reason, many studies have been conducted to suppress oxidative stress occurring in the skin, and various antioxidants have been developed and used accordingly. As such substances, vitamins such as vitamin A (retinoic acid), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherol) and flavonoids extracted from various plants and animals are known, and are currently used in cosmetics.

Among them, vitamin A, vitamin C, and vitamin E are fat-soluble to water-soluble vitamins and are known to suppress oxidative stress occurring in the skin when applied to the skin. However, these vitamins are very unstable and difficult to use in cosmetic compositions.

In addition, the method of suppressing aging such as skin wrinkles and skin drying caused by the decrease of elasticity of the skin and loss of moisture retention as it ages is one of the biggest interests of cosmetics, and it is a substance that suppresses human skin aging. Retinol and its derivatives, retinol palmitate, are well known and there are many external skin preparations using this substance as an active ingredient. For example, a cosmetic material using retinol as a collagen synthesis promoter is disclosed in Patent Application No. 1996-40382, and a whitening cosmetic using a diester of aromatic carbonic acid such as benzoic acid as a whitening ingredient in Patent Application No. 1999-232. The melanin production inhibitor which uses retinol as an active ingredient is disclosed by patent application 1998-19763.

Retinol or retinol derivative is an excellent substance that promotes the synthesis of collagen, and when it is used as a main ingredient in cosmetics and external skin preparations, it exhibits excellent collagen synthesis and melanin production inhibitory effect and does not cause any damage to the skin. Known cosmetic preparations. However, retinol or retinol derivatives are easily oxidized by light, heat, air, moisture, etc., and lose their pure activity, which makes them difficult to commercialize.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant widely used in various foods, and is known to be useful for the prevention and treatment of colds, various cancers, and heart disease. In addition, vitamin C has a high inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity by reducing the quinones to phenols, and thus is widely used as a raw material for whitening products, blemishes, and freckles. However, vitamin C also tends to be unstable in the formulation, which is easily oxidized by heat, air and moisture, causing irritation to the skin. It has a disadvantage that causes a discoloration of the product due to the distinctive color, and its use is limited, and the effect is also significantly reduced over time.

Therefore, in order to increase the stability of vitamins having such excellent effects, emulsion techniques such as multiple emulsion, liquid crystal system, non-aqua emulsion, and cyclodextrin are included. Efforts have been made to improve the stability over time.

However, these techniques have many limitations for use in many formulations and have difficulty stabilizing both water-soluble and fat-soluble vitamins.

The present invention is to overcome such a conventional problem, by providing a cosmetic composition containing nanoemulsion and liposomes stably containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof to moisturize skin, prevent aging and maintain elasticity It is intended to provide an excellent cosmetic composition.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

Vitamin A and its derivatives, retinol palmitate, are known to aid collagen synthesis. Retinol derivatives include mono fatty acid esters of vitamin A, such as vitamin A monopalmitate, vitamin A monobutylate, vitamin A monostearate, Vitamin A monocinnamoate, vitamin A monobenzoate and the like can be used, and vitamin A difatty acid esters such as vitamin A dipalmitate, vitamin A dibutylate, vitamin A distearate, and vitamin A monobenzo Eight, etc. are included.

Vitamin E refers to tocopherol and tocotrienol derivatives, and alpha, beta, and delta-tocopherol are important when classified for physiological activity. Their biochemical mechanisms for the human body have not yet been fully elucidated, but they are well known for protecting cell walls. Phospholipids, cholesterol and triglycerides are the major components of the cell wall. Vitamin E is an antioxidant that protects the major components of the cell wall from free radicals. This protects polyunsaturated fats from oxidation. Vitamin E and its derivatives are widely used in terms of stability, and derivatives generally include esters in the form of acetate or succinate.

Vitamin C, on the other hand, is an antioxidant that removes free radicals and boosts almost all immune function. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects your skin from the harmful oxygen produced when exposed to excessive sunlight. It also promotes the synthesis of collagen fibers.

Vitamin C in its pure form has the disadvantage of being easily destroyed by air, heat, metal, light and alkali. Thus, ascorbic acid derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ethyl ascorbyl ether were synthesized as vitamin C and its derivatives. However, due to its dissolving property in the aqueous solution, the percutaneous absorption rate absorbed to the dermal layer of the skin is low and it is difficult to maintain the effect continuously.

Vitamin B is not a single vitamin but is divided into various groups such as vitamins B1, B2, B3, B5, and B6, and forms a vitamin B complex. Lack of vitamin B can interfere with normal sugar and fat metabolism, leading to acne and rough skin.

In particular, vitamin B5 is called panthenol and has excellent moisturizing and soothing effects. It is also a great help for dry and rough skin.

Therefore, the present invention focused on the functions of the described vitamins, vitamins A, B, C, E and their derivatives in cosmetics, and focused on the advantages of maintaining the effect by increasing the long-term preservation in the skin.

As far as is known, the most suitable structures for the effective penetration of moisture and active bioactive ingredients into the skin in cosmetic compositions are liposomes and nanoemulsions.

Liposomes are spherical phospholipid vehicles of self-associating colloidal particles that form spontaneously aligned structures by the interaction of amphiphilic molecules with hydrophilic and lipophilic moieties.

In general, liposomes are hermetically sealed double membrane structures that may contain a hydrophilic material inside the water-soluble nucleus, and may contain amphiphilic or lipophilic materials within the lipid bilayer.

A nanoemulsion is a vehicle having an average diameter of 30 to 500 nm of particles formed by a monomolecular layer of phospholipid. The O / W type in which oil is dispersed in water has a fat-soluble core therein.

The present invention uses unsaturated lecithin and saturated lecithin in the formation of phospholipid membranes of nanoemulsions and liposomes. Unsaturated lecithin and saturated lecithin emulsify the stratum corneum to promote skin penetration of hydrophobic molecules.

The nanoemulsion and liposomes according to the present invention are 0.01-10% by weight of vitamin A and its derivatives and vitamin E and its derivatives in a ratio of 1: 4, and 0.01-0.1% of vitamin B and vitamin C and its derivatives in a ratio of 1: 1-. It is contained in 10% by weight.

In addition, the nanoemulsion and liposome according to the present invention contains 1-15% by weight of unsaturated lecithin and saturated lecithin in a ratio of 4: 1 to the total weight of the nanoemulsion and liposome, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glycerol, Alcohol is mixed at 20-50% by weight.

Cosmetic compositions containing nanoemulsions and liposomes containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof according to the invention contain 0.1-50% by weight nanoemulsions and liposomes, more preferably 0.5-30% by weight. It is characterized by containing a nanoemulsion and liposomes.

Although the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Formulation Examples, the present invention is not intended to be limited thereto.

Example 1

In the preparation of nanoemulsions and liposomes, a known high pressure homogeneous mixing method using a microfluidizer as a high pressure emulsifier is used.

Specific manufacturing examples are as follows.

To the composition shown in Table 1, 0.5% by weight of vitamin A palmitate, 2.5% by weight of vitamin E acetate, 2.0% by weight of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, 2.5% by weight of vitamin B, and caprylic / capric triglyceride 8.0% by weight Warmed to 70 degrees, mixed, dissolved, and cooled. 15% by weight of a mixture of unsaturated lecithin and saturated lecithin as an emulsifier were mixed, 10% by weight of glycerol and 5% by weight of alcohol were added thereto, and then purified water was added to make 100% by weight. The mixed solution was passed through a high pressure emulsifier three times under pressure conditions of 1,200 bar to obtain nanoemulsions and liposomes containing vitamins A, B, C, E and their derivatives.

Nanoemulsion and Liposomes ingredient Example (% by weight) Comparative Example 1 (% by weight) Comparative Example 2 (% by weight) Comparative Example 3 (% by weight) Vitamin A Palmitate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 Vitamin E Acetate 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Purified water 54.35 54.35 54.35 54.35 Glycerol 10 10 10 10 Alcohol 5 5 5 5 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 2 2 2 2 Unsaturated lecithin 12 15 7.5 0 Saturated lecithin 3 0 7.5 15 Vitamin B 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 antiseptic 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

The nanoemulsion and liposomes prepared by the above preparation were stored in a 40 ° C. incubator, and then measured with stability of formulation and time-lapse stability using HPLC.

Formulation stability and time stability 40 degrees celsius Example Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 0.5 months ○ ○ ○ ○ 1 month ○ △ ○ △ 2 months ○ △ △ ×

Good: ○, Normal: △, Poor: ×

Time-lapse purification (% of residual): Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 40 degrees celsius Example Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Early 99.0 99.0 100.0 99.0 1 month 98.5 98.0 98.0 97.0 2 months 98.0 97.0 97.0 95.0 4 months 98.0 95.0 96.0 93.0 6 months 97.0 92.0 96.0 90.0

As a result of observing the formulation stability and time-lapse stability of the nanoemulsion and liposomes prepared according to the examples and the comparative example, the Example showed better formulation stability and time-lapse stability than the comparative example. Particularly, when the unsaturated lecithin and saturated lecithin were combined at a ratio of 4: 1, the formulation stability and aging stability were excellent.

Hereinafter, the composition of the cosmetics containing the liposomes and nanoemulsions containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof prepared in Example 1 will be described in more detail. However, the present invention is not limited to the following formulations of nutrition cream, nutrition lotion and softening longevity, but can also be used in formulations of astringent makeup water, eye cream, massage cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack and the like.

Formulation Example 1

Preparation of Nutritional Cream

The phase A, which provides a protective oil film on the skin surface with the composition of Table 4, is heated to 70 degrees Celsius and stirred at a constant speed. It was emulsified while slowly adding to phase A. Phase C was added to (A + B) phase, then slowly cooled, filtered and aged to fill the vessel.

Formulation example and comparative example of nutrition cream Ingredient Name Formulation example (% by weight) Comparative example (wt%) A Cetostearyl alcohol wax wax paraffin squalane polysorbate 60 sorbitan monostearate shea butter lanolin triethanolamine 2.01.510.03.02.01.02.01.50.1 2.01.510.03.02.01.02.01.50.1 B Purified Water Glycerine Butylene Glycol Propylene Glycol Carboxy Vinyl Polymer to 1004.04.03.00.08 to 1004.04.03.00.08 C Liposomes or nanoemulsions containing vitamins A, B, C, E and their derivatives Yellow 4 Yellow 5 Flavor 10.0 0.4 quantity - 0.4 quantity

Formulation Example 2

Preparation of Nutrients

The phase A, which provides a protective oil film on the skin surface with the composition of Table 5, is heated to 70 degrees Celsius and stirred at a constant speed. It was emulsified while slowly adding to phase A. Phase C was added to (A + B) phase, then slowly cooled, filtered and aged to fill the vessel.

Formulation example and comparative example of nutrition lotion Ingredient Name Formulation example (% by weight) Comparative example (wt%) A Stearic Acid Liquid Paraffin Squalane Polysorbate 60 Solbitan Monostearate Shea Butter Macadamia Oil Triethanolamine 0.55.03.01.51.01.01.50.15 0.55.03.01.51.01.01.50.15 B Purified Water Glycerine Butylene Glycol Carboxy Vinyl Polymer to 1004.06.00.12 to 1004.06.00.12 C Yellow liposome or nanoemulsion preservative yellow 5 flavoring containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof 5.0 0.4 quantity - 0.4 quantity

Formulation Example 3

Manufacturing method of flexible cosmetics

B, A, C, and D were sequentially added to the composition of Table 6, followed by stirring at a constant speed to mix.

Formulation Example and Comparative Example of Softening Soap Ingredient Name Formulation example (% by weight) Comparative example (wt%) A Hydrogenate Castor Oil Ethanol Preservative 0.410.0 0.410.0 B Purified Water Glycerine Butylene Glycol Carboxy Vinyl Polymer Triethanolamine to 1004.06.00.10.1 to 1004.06.00.10.1 C Liposomes or nanoemulsions containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof 1.0 -

Efficacy test of cosmetics according to the present invention

For each of the contents prepared according to the three formulation examples and comparative examples, the measurement and comparative evaluation of the moisturizing ability and general sensory test was performed on 20 women aged 25-45 years.

Test Example 1

Moisturizing effect test

The skin moisturizing effect of the nanoemulsion or liposome containing the vitamin A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof was measured.

10 healthy women in a room with 25 degrees Celsius, 45% relative humidity and no flow of air recalled the example on the right and the left on the left and the comparative example on the left Formulated according to Table 4 and applied twice a day for 7 days at the position of 5cm below the forearm and the lower arm, and using the Corneometer CM 825 (CK Courage & Khazaka Germany) to change the electrical conductivity according to the epidermal moisture content from 0 to 150 Moisturizing effect was measured by measuring the moisture content of the skin five times in a row and quantifying the moisture content of the skin. The experimental results are shown in Table 7 below.

Prescription Example Comparative Example 0 3 days 6 days 9th 0 3 days 6 days 9th Subject 1 44 50 75 74 38 41 51 56 Subject 2 34 60 58 84 39 67 58 67 Subject 3 31 63 65 69 34 50 54 59 Subject 4 30 46 59 70 21 43 41 47 Subject 5 57 75 84 95 53 69 69 72 Subject 6 42 57 72 71 37 48 55 58 Subject 7 36 56 78 76 43 51 65 70 Subject 8 55 64 69 85 42 44 45 69 Subject 9 46 63 79 88 35 49 51 71 Subject 10 46 53 58 60 41 51 52 57 Average 42.1 58.7 69.7 77.2 38.3 51.3 54.1 62.6

As a result of the test, the Examples of the present invention showed a very improved effect compared to the Comparative Example, the average amount of water was measured 42.1, 58.7 after 3 days, 69.7 after 6 days, 77.2 after 9 days after one use. As a result, the moisturizing ability was more pronounced than the cosmetics of the comparative example.

Test Example 2

Skin safety testing

Skin safety experiments were carried out on the nanoemulsions containing the vitamins A, B, C, E and their derivatives and the cosmetics containing liposomes.

In the skin safety experiment, the test sample was used as it is and the comparative example was used, and a patch test bandage was performed on the forearm of 30 healthy males and females for 24 hours.

The observation revealed that the proton was a person who had removed the band-aid and developed a erythema after 4 hours.

Criteria : reaction Score Symptoms and Criteria - 0 No response +/- 0.5 Weak erythema + 1.0 Clear erythema ++ 2.0 Severe erythema with edema +++ 3.0 Severe erythema with bullous, edema

How to calculate the skin irritation:

Skin irritation degree = (number of subjects showing stimulation rate × response) / total number of subjects

Skin safety Elapsed time Stimulation index Example Comparative Example 4 hours later 0.0 0.0

As a result of skin safety test, the nutritional cream containing nanoemulsion and liposome containing vitamin A, B, C, E and their derivatives (Formulation Example 1) had a mean stimulation level of 0 and showed no stimulation in all the subjects. Nanoemulsions and liposomes containing, C, E and their derivatives were found to be safe substances with no irritation to the skin.

Test Example 3

Moisturizing effect sensory test

The moisturizing effect on nutrition cream, nutrition lotion and softening lotion prepared according to the above formulation example and comparative example was compared to 5-point scale after 20-day use twice a day for 20 women aged 25-45 years. . Regarding the question of whether skin moisturization has improved, it is criticized as 'not at all-1', 'not at most-2', 'normal is-3', 'yes-4' and 'very yes-5' The time point of application was comparatively divided by immediately after one use of the product and two days after use for 10 days. The results are shown in Table 10.

Overall score = {(very satisfied people × 5) + (satisfied people × 4) + (normal people × 3) + (bad people × 2) + (very bad people × 1)} ÷ evaluation people

Comparative sensory data of the present invention (skin moisturizing effect) product skin Lotion Nutrition Cream Example Comparative Example Example Comparative Example Example Comparative Example Skin moisturizing effect Immediately after use 3.6 3.4 3.7 3.4 3.9 3.6 After 10 days 4.2 3.7 4.2 3.9 4.6 4.1

Test Example 4

Elasticity effect sensory test

The elasticity effect on the nutrition cream, nutrition lotion, and supple cosmetics prepared according to the above-described formulation example and comparative example was compared and evaluated five-point scale after use twice daily for 10 women for 25-45 years. Regarding the question of whether skin elasticity is improved, it is criticized as 'not at all-1', 'not at most-2', 'normal at-3', 'yes at 4' and 'very yes at 5' The time point of application was comparatively divided after immediately using the product once and after using it twice a day for 7 days. The results are shown in Table 11.

Overall score = {(very satisfied people × 5) + (satisfied people × 4) + (normal people × 3) + (bad people × 2) + (very bad people × 1)} ÷ evaluation people

Comparative sensory data of the present invention (elasticity increasing effect) product skin Example Comparative Example Example Comparative Example Example Comparative Example Skin elasticity increasing effect Immediately after use 3.1 3.0 3.2 3.2 3.3 3.0 10 days after use 3.7 3.3 4.1 3.4 4.5 3.5

Tables 10 and 11 assess the product effects perceived by the subject's direct use and feel. In this way, the sensory sensory evaluations were performed on a scale of 5 out of 5 for the average of 20 people. The higher the scores of the subjects were, the higher the satisfaction was.

Referring to the nutritional cream prepared by Formulation Example 1 of the present invention as an example, the nutritional cream prepared by Formulation Example 1 was 3.9 and 4.6 immediately after the use of the sensory evaluation on the moisturizing efficacy and after 7 days of use twice a day, respectively. As a result, excellent effects were obtained by continuous use as compared to sensory evaluation 3.6 and 4.1 for the moisturizing efficacy of the nutrition cream prepared in Comparative Formulation Example 1.

The sensory evaluation of the increase in elasticity is that the nutrition cream of Comparative Example 1 is 3.0 and 3.5 immediately after use and twice daily use, whereas the nutrition cream of Formulation Example 1 is 3.3 and 4.5, respectively, so that vitamin A, It was found that the cosmetics containing liposomes or nanoemulsions containing B, C, E and derivatives thereof had excellent effects on skin moisturizing ability and elasticity increasing effect.

As described above, the cosmetics containing nanoemulsions and liposomes containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof have an improved effect on skin moisturizing effect, elasticity increasing effect and general sensory use compared with conventional comparative formulations. In particular, it showed an excellent effect than the continuous use in particular.

As described above, it can be seen that the present invention is effective for maintaining healthy skin by effectively acting on the skin and increasing skin's moisturizing ability and elasticity.

Claims (6)

Vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin B complex and caprylic / capric triglycerides are heated to 70 degrees Celsius to dissolve, cool, and unsaturated lecithin and saturated lecithin as emulsifiers. And a mixture of glycerol and alcohol, followed by adding purified water, and passing the mixed solution three times through a high pressure emulsifying apparatus under a pressure condition of 1,200 bar, wherein the cosmetic contains nanoemulsion and liposome. Method of Preparation of the Composition Cosmetic composition characterized in that it contains 0.01-50% by weight of the nanoemulsion and liposomes containing vitamins A, B, C, E and derivatives thereof made according to claim 1 The method of claim 2, Vitamin A and its derivatives and vitamin E and its derivatives are 0.01 to 10% by weight in a ratio of 1: 4, and vitamin C and its derivatives and the vitamin B complex are 0.01 to 10% by weight in a 1: 1 ratio. Cosmetic composition containing nanoemulsion and liposome The method of claim 2, Phospholipids that form the membranes of nanoemulsions and liposomes are composed of 4: 1 ratios of unsaturated lecithin and saturated lecithin, and contain 0.1-15% by weight unsaturated lecithin and saturated lecithin based on the total weight of nanoemulsions and liposomes. Cosmetic composition containing a nanoemulsion and liposomes, characterized in that 20-50% by weight of capric triglyceride, glycerol, alcohol The method of claim 2, It contains 0.1-10% by weight unsaturated lecithin and 1-5% by weight saturated lecithin based on the total weight of the nanoemulsion and liposome, and preferably comprises 0.1-15% by weight of unsaturated lecithin and saturated lecithin in a 4: 1 ratio, capryl Cosmetic composition containing a nanoemulsion and liposomes, characterized in that the rick / capric triglycerides, glycerol, alcohol comprises 20-50% by weight The method of claim 2, Cosmetic composition characterized in that the formulation is a nourishing cream, supple cosmetics, astringent cosmetics, eye cream, massage cream, cleansing cream, foam cleansing, essence, pack