KR20010079933A - Use of a boldo extract in a cosmetic or dermatological product - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of the Volvo extract in cosmetics or skin products, and to a product comprising the extract. The present invention is specifically for the cosmetic or skin for preventing or treating the aging phenomenon of the tissue by applying to the volvo extract itself or at least one other active ingredient as an active ingredient applied to the local or outside of the skin, nails, and / or hair It is related to the use used for manufacture of a product.

Description

For cosmetic or skin products of Volvo Extracts {USE OF A BOLDO EXTRACT IN A COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL PRODUCT}

Volumus tree ( Peumus boldus Mol. ) Is a small shrub belonging to the family Monimiaceae which grows in sunny Chilean hills. Voldo tree is used as a herb in conventional medicine.

For example, in the Andes, boldo leaves are used in herbal teas for liver disease and intestinal poisoning, poultices on temples for headaches and migraine headaches, baths for rheumatism, and nausea preparations. Voldo leaves are also used as diuretics, gastrointestinal tonics and sedatives.

The leaves can also be used as an insect repellent ( Anthelminthikum ) and the liquid from the leaves can be used as a drop (drop) into the ear to treat ear inflammation (otitis).

According to the technical literature, the boldo leaves are 1.2% tannin, 2-3% essential oils (45% ascaridol, 30% cineol, and a mixture of a number of turpenes). ), Flavonoids or flavonic acid glycosides (separate / separate ones include: pneumoside, Boldoside, fragoside, etc.), and 0.25-0.50% apopin alkaloids, wherein boldin is the major alkaloid (25% of the total alkaloid content) ).

Recently, Boldine has a bile secretion and bile stimulating effect (DE-2 547 243), and smooth muscle relaxes (Speisky and Cassels, Pharmalogical Research-Pharmakologische Forschung, Vol. 29, No. 1, 1-12, 1994).

Voldine is known to have antioxidant properties, neutralizing free radicals, and peroxidation inhibitory effects (P-450 cytochrome-based, microsomal membranes).

Alcoholic water extracts of Volvo leaves have been shown to have protective and anti-inflammatory effects on the liver (Bruneton, "Pharmacognosie, Phytochimie, Plantes medicinales"-"Pharmakognosie, Phytochemie, Heilkraeuter", 2nd Edition, Lavoisier, Paris, 1993, 737-739 / Wichtl, "Teedrogen und Phytopharmaka", 3rd Edition, Wissenschaftliche Verlagsgesellschaft, 1997, 110-112), Boldin has been proposed as a therapeutic agent for liver toxicity and autoimmune and inflammatory diseases (Speisky and Cassels, 1994-supra) .

Finally, US Pat. No. 5,348,755 discloses the use of boldin as an antioxidant in edible oils, and US Pat. Nos. 4,185,119 and 5,594,033 disclose the antiallergic and antiarrhythmic properties of boldin, respectively.

Despite the numerous pharmacological and therapeutic uses, no specific application has been mentioned so far in the field of cosmetic or dermal use.

However, the authors of the present invention surprisingly found that volvo extracts, in particular those composed of apopinnic alkaloids, more specifically, have a distinctive feature and notable effect, which are distinct from those described above, It has been found to be an effective means against aging phenomena, specifically various phenomena and reactions that occur or are accelerated by exposure to solar radiation.

The present invention relates to cosmetics and skin products or preparations, and in particular to cosmetics and skin products or preparations effective in treating aging phenomena of tissues, the use of volvo extracts in the treatment of aging phenomena of tissues and extracts of this kind It relates to a cosmetic or skin product comprising.

1 and 2 are graphs showing that apoptosis is inhibited by voldin.

Therefore, the main object of the present invention is to apply boldo extract alone or the volvo extract added to at least one other active ingredient as an active ingredient from the outside of the skin, nails, and / or hair to externally apply tissue aging phenomenon. It is intended to be used in the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological products that prevent and cure.

Volvo extract used in the preferred embodiment of the present invention is an extract obtained from boldin or boldin fortified, in particular from the boldo leaves.

Notable features and actions of boldo extracts, specifically boldine, have been found by various tests described in detail below.

I. Effect on Human Fibroblast Growth in Laboratory Culture

1. How to work

Human fibroblasts were seeded in defined media (DMEM). After 24 hours of incubation in an atmosphere of 37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ , boldine (eg, but not limited to boldine commercially available from SIGMA under reference B3916, packing number 94H10481) was added at two different concentrations.

After 3 days of culture in a 37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ atmosphere, cell counts were counted by particle counter and fibroblast growth was assessed by enzymatic quantification of ATP. In these experiments on human fibroblasts (during growth and survival), positive control groups include fetal bovine serum (SVF) containing a number of growth factors (IGF, PDGF, etc.) and nutrients (glucose, proteins, amino acids, etc.). ) Was used in the in vitro study.

2. Results achieved with Boldine (% compared to control)

Boldin Concentration Fibroblast Count ATP Content

(% p.v.) (*) (*)

0% = control 100 100

0.001% 105 116

0.003% 110 124

(*) Average of 3 experiments repeated 3 times

3. Results achieved with fetal bovine serum (SVF) (% compared to control)

SVF concentration Fibroblast count ATP content

(% v / v) (*) (*)

0% = control 100 100

0.1% 112 125

0.3% 135 155

(*) Average of 3 experiments repeated 3 times

Voldins in the table show that they significantly stimulate the growth and metabolism of human fibroblasts in vitro. Voldin was tested 100 times less than the SVF content, showing a slightly slower effect but comparable to that of SVF.

II. Improved survival rate of human fibroblasts in the laboratory

Survival improvement was evaluated using cultures saturated with fibroblasts. During saturation, the so-called contact limit acts on the proliferation of fibroblasts. This test allows the determination of the following quantitative parameters for resting cells:

General metabolic activity by measurement of ATP content,

Protein synthesis,

Glutathione synthesis,

1. How to work

Fibroblasts were seeded in defined media (DMEM). After 72 hours of inoculation, boldin was added to the medium. After 72 hours of incubation at 37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ atmosphere, the given parameters were evaluated.

ATP was analyzed by enzymatic, chemiluminescent system (Kemp, 1986), proteins were analyzed by colorimetric reaction according to Bradford (Bradford, 1986), and reduced glutathione (GSH) was analyzed by fluorescent probes, orthophthalaldehyde (Hissin and Hilf, 1976).

GSH content is given in mg of protein and then expressed as% of untreated control.

2. Results achieved with Boldine (% compared to control)

Boldin Concentration ATP Content Protein Content GSH Content

(% p.v.) (*) (*) (*)

0% = control 100 100 100

0.002% 131 157 96

0.005% 166 201 100

(*) Average of 3 experiments repeated 3 times

3. Results achieved with fetal bovine serum (SVF) (% compared to control)

SVF Concentration ATP Content Protein Content GSH Content

(% v / v) (*) (*) (*)

Control group 100 100 100

0.1% 123 108 105

0.3% 140 117 120

(*) Average of 3 experiments repeated 3 times

Voldin stimulated the synthesis of ATP, protein, and GSH. For ATP and GSH, boldin was tested 50 times less than the SVF content, but had comparable efficacy to that of SVF. For proteins, boldin stimulated more than SVF.

In the results of sections I and II, boldin is used in care cosmetics (skin care, hair care, nail care) and has the use against skin aging, tired areas of exposure, protein synthesis and metabolism that need to be excited. It is interesting to note that the benefits expected from cosmetic preparations are available.

III. "Anti-protease" activity

Proteases isolated from fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation or polymorphonuclear neutrophils (PMN) in inflammatory progression degrade proteins that make up the extracellular matrix of the dermis.

1.In vitro test of anti-collagenase (Van Wart et al. , Anal. Biochem., 113, 356-365, 1981)

Polymorphonuclear neutral leukocytes (PMN) and fibroblasts that "explode" or are exposed to light secrete collagenase during inflammatory progression. The test was performed with clostridium histolyticum collagenase and FALGPA, a synthetic pigmentation material. Incubation time was 30 minutes at room temperature and optical density was measured at 324 nm. Cysteine was used as an inhibitor test in the comparative group.

% Results from% (p / v) Concentration Inhibition

Test Formulation 0

0.03% Voldine 1

0.1% Voldine 40

0.3% Boldin 100

CI ₅₀ % p / v 0.12%

% (P / v) results in cysteine concentration (% p / v) inhibition

0 0

1.8 44

2.6 63

3.5 77

CI ₅₀ % p / v 0.12%

The results show additional desirable properties of using boldine in cosmetics against light induced or genetic aging phenomena in the skin and / or exposed areas.

Ⅳ. "Anti-component P" activity

1. In vitro experiments on component P inhibition (Ebertz) et al , Journal of Investigative Dermatology-Zeitschrift der Forschungs-Dermatologie, 88 (6), 682-685, 1987).

Component P is a neuropeptide which is released from certain sensory nerve fibers of the skin after stimulation. This peptide acts on specific receptors present in skin cells (fibroblasts, keratinocytes, Langerhans cells) that induce strong proliferation (fibroblasts and keratinocytes) or immunoregulatory (langerhans cells). Component P initiates the release of histamine on breast cells, which is the causative agent of erythema observed in in vivo experiments. This phenomenon was evaluated on biopsies of skin cultured in the presence of component P at 37 ° C. Released histamine was analyzed by ELISA system.

% Of concentration (p / v) Μmol of histamine content released per liter of biopsy specimen % Control Control 0.8 0 Control + Component P 1.4 100 Component P + 0.01% Boldin 1.3 81 Component P + 0.1% Voldine 1.2 69

The results clearly show the benefits of topical application of boldin as a cosmetic to calm sensitive skin irritated by chemical components (pollution) or physical stress (UV, heat, dry), or psychological abnormalities.

Ⅴ. "Anti-glycosylation" activity

In vitro experiments on inhibition of glycation (Deyl et al., Mechani, of Ageing & Development-Mechanismen des Alterns & Entwicklung, 55 (1), 39-47, 1990 / Monnier et al , Proceedings of the National Academy of Science of the USA, 81 (1), 583-587, 1984).

Non-enzymatic glycosylation of proteins is a critical step in aging human tissues and provides an explanation for the extracellular matrix and the network of basement membranes, which are highly involved in the pathogenesis observed in diabetes. Schiff bases also catalyze the production of reactive forms of oxygen that exacerbate the action of non-enzymatic glycosylation. In vitro experiments were performed using type 1 collagen and incubated for 21 days at 45 ° C. in the presence of 1% glucose. The content of Schiff base was evaluated by fluorimetry at 430 nm (stimulation at 350 nm). Glucose content determined by collagen was evaluated by thiobarbituric acid (density measurement of 443 nm).

% Concentration (p / v) % Results for Control Phosphor Bound glucose 0% = control 100 100 0.01% Boldine 78 77 0.1% Voldine 48 42

Aminoguanidine was tested in vitro as a positive control test in the glycosylation model.

Aminoguanidine concentration% (p / v) % Results for Control Phosphor Bound glucose 0% = control 100 100 0.003% 98 101 0.01% 95 115 0.03% 70 112 0.1% 24 126

The table showed that 0.01% of boldin was more active than aminoguanidine at the fluorescent base of the Schiff base and the glucose content bound to collagen.

These results show that it is interesting to topically apply boldines to proteins in the extracellular matrix of the skin in care cosmetics (skin and hair care) to reduce aging phenomena (real or photoinduced).

Ⅵ. Prevention of apoptosis induction

1. Principle

Apoptosis is an active physiological process used by living organisms to autolyze and remove specific cells, specifically by breaking down the ADNs of proteins and nuclei into small fragments that exit the cytoplasm.

Apoptosis can be induced by oxidative stress (ultraviolet radiation, inflammation), growth factor deficiency, or toxic substances (contaminants, genotoxic substances, etc.).

The goal of these experiments is to show the ability of certain components in cell culture to reduce the rate of apoptosis induced in the laboratory.

The apoptosis inducer used in this study is a growth factor deficiency, a mechanism that is at least partly involved in aging of tissues by the disappearance of living cells.

2. How to work

a) preparation of cells

In this experiment, human A549 epithelial cells in saturated cell cover were used.

In JO cells were incubated for 4 days at 37 ° C. in medium without serum containing various component concentrations to be tested. Some cells obtained from cultures containing bovine serum (containing growth factors) were used as negative controls. Cells were then harvested by trypsin addition, stained and analyzed by flow cytometry.

b) Quantification of apoptotic cells by flow cytometry (R. Olivier, Methods in Enzymol. Vol. 251, Chapter 24, 270-278, 1995)

In apoptosis studies, it is necessary to measure the content of necrotic cells (necrosis rate) as well as the content of apoptotic cells (apoptosis rate) to confirm that inhibition of apoptosis induction is not due to the transition to necrosis.

Method 1: staining with fluorescent probes

In this method, cells are stained simultaneously with ethidium bromide (5 μg / ml) and acridine orange solution (1.5 μg / ml).

Necrotic cells are stained with ethidium bromide, while live cells are stained only with acridine orange. Living cells were separated into two groups: low fluorescent apoptotic cells and strong fluorescent non-apoptotic cells according to the fluorescent intensity of acridine orange according to the ADN content.

Method 2: Quantification by “Sub-G1” Peak

In this method, some of the cells were stained with trypan blue and the necrotic cells were counted by classical microscopy.

The remaining cells were allowed to permeate and then stained with ethidium bromide solution (5 μg / ml) and quantified by flow cytometry. In this part, apoptotic cells are found in the form of peaks called "sub-G1" because apoptotic cells have less ADN content than non-apoptotic cells. This peak is called "sub-G1" because it occurs just before the G1 peak in the frequency graph (histogram) of cell cycle studies. The G0 / G1 peak corresponds to cells at the resting or initiation phase of the cell cycle, at which time the cells have only one individual genetic material. G2 / M peaks correspond to cells that have a dual entity of their genetic material or have a genetic material that is already in mitosis (separated into two daughter cells). The G0 / G1 and G2 / M peaks were separated by cultures containing cells of S phase which are in the intermediate state of synthesizing the second individual of genetic material (according to F. Lacombe, 1992).

3. Results

1 and 2 of the accompanying drawings show a graph showing the inhibition of apoptosis in human A549 cells induced by growth factor deficiency, which is clearly revealed by flow cytometry (statistics: + of 3 trials). /-SEM / Student T Test / (*) = P <0.05).

The graphs of FIGS. 1 and 2 should be interpreted with respect to the control content given in the table below.

Method 1

% Content (mean +/- SEM of 3 experiments)

dyes Control group (no serum in cows) Reference (bovine serum) Non-apoptotic Living Cells 67 +/- 3 70 +/- 3 Apoptotic Living Cells 15 +/- 4 2 +/- 0 Necrotic cells 16 +/- 2 25 +/- 3

Method 2

% Content (mean +/- SEM of 3 experiments)

dyes Control group (no serum in cows) Reference (bovine serum) Living cells 74 +/- 7 79 +/- 5 Apoptotic Living Cells 16 +/- 4 2 +/- 0 Necrotic cells 26 +/- 7 21 +/- 5

In method 1 (FIG. 1), growth factor deficiency in cells increased apoptosis from 2% to 15%. In cells treated with boldine, the apoptosis rate dropped to 4% at a content of 5 mg / l.

In Method 2 (FIG. 2), the lack of growth factors in the cells increased the apoptosis rate from 2% to 16%. In cells treated with boldine, the apoptosis rate dropped to 4% at a content of 5 mg / L.

The results show that bovine and bovine serum had distinct ability to reduce the rate of apoptosis induced in culture of human cells lacking growth factors.

Since the amount of cells corresponding to necrosis does not change significantly after administration of boldine, this effect of boldine is not due to the transition of apoptosis to necrosis.

The action and positive activity of boldin or boldin-enriched extracts, which have been recently discovered by the inventors and will be described below, include very strongly stimulating metabolic activity (specifically stimulating the synthesis of ATP, GSH-reduced glutathione and protein Stimulation), deterministic stimulatory effects on the anti-glycosylation activity and cell growth of the therapeutic protein and collagen.

This surprising beneficial effect on the metabolism that occurs as a side effect in the aging process of cells highlights the interest in the use of Boldin, even in small quantities, to prevent or treat aging of tissues, specifically skin cells.

In addition, induction of the additional activity of the boldine or boldin-enhanced extracts mentioned above and recently established or modified by the present inventors, namely antiprotease activity (specifically anti-collagenase), anti-P constitutive activity and apoptosis Additional activities such as prevention provide additional biological properties of voldine, specifically antistress, soothing, protective and regenerative effects on the skin area after exposure to sunlight.

As a result, the present invention relates to the use of boldine, which is preferred for treating actual or photoinduced aging of tissues, in particular skin regions.

The present invention also relates to aging of tissues, in particular light, characterized in that it comprises a single or other active ingredient in a cosmetic or dermatologically effective amount of a boldine extract, preferably boldine or an extract enriched with boldine as the active ingredient. It includes cosmetic or dermatological products to treat aging induced by.

According to the nature of the invention taking into account the test results mentioned above, preferred cosmetic or dermatological products comprise from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 2% by weight of boldine.

In a first variant of the invention, the boldin is in a hydropolyolic solution or in vectorized form (liposomes, nanospheres, nanocapsules, microspheres, microcapsules, micelles, etc.).

In a second variant of the invention, the boldin is present in a form substituted by, for example, amino acids, sugars, lipids or peptides.

As a non-limiting embodiment of the invention, the various product or cosmetic compositions described below comprise only boldine or at least one other ingredient as the active ingredient.

Example 1

Cosmetic products in the form of protective or irritating hair lotions according to the invention may for example have the following weight composition:

Formulation

Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.20

Propylene Glycol 2.00

Ketostearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 5.00

Lipodermol 1.00

Cetrimonium chloride 1.00

Glycol Stearate 2.00

Preservative qs (sufficient content)

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 1.00

Boldin 0.005

Sufficient content to fill 100.00 water

The process for preparing and producing the lotion firstly heats all lipid components (kerostearic acid (and) Ceteareth-20, reportermol, and glycol stearate) to 75 ° C., and water and propylene glycol mixture to 70 ° C. , Hydroxy ethyl cellulose, cetrimonium chloride, preservative, boldin and hydrolyzed wheat protein are dissolved in this mixture, the lipid phase is added with stirring the aqueous phase at this temperature and the stirring is continued until the obtained lotion is completely cooled. It consists of steps.

Example 2

The cosmetic product in the form of a stimulating regenerating night cream for fine lines according to the invention may, for example, have a composition of the weight given below:

Formulation

Geological

Glycerin Stearate (and) Ketostearic Alcohol

(And) cetyl palmitate (and) coconut glyceride 12.00

PEG-20 Glycerol Stearate 2.00

Ceteareth-20 1.00

Octyldodecanol 3.00

Shea Oil 3.00

Dioctyl cyclohexane 4.00

Awards

Glycerin 3.00

Vegeseryl ™ HGP: Soya Protein (Soya Glycine) 5.00

Boldin 0.20

Elestab ™ 388 (preservative) 1.50

Sufficient content to fill 100.00 water

Fragrance qs (sufficient content)

The process for the preparation and production of the above-mentioned creams involves heating the lipid phase component to 80 ° C., heating the water + glycerine + preservative mixture to 80 ° C., dissolving boldine with stirring, and stirring the lipid in the water phase while stirring by a turbine. The mixture obtained by adding the phase is cooled, Vegeseryl ™ HGP is added at 60 ° C. and the fragrance is added at 45 ° C., finally cooling to room temperature.

Example 3

Cosmetic products in the form of anti-irritant protective day creams for sensitive skin according to the invention may, for example, have the following weight composition:

Formulation

Geological

Glycerol-SE-Stearate 16.00

Ceteareth-12 1.00

Octyldodecanol 6.00

Isopropyl myristate 4.00

Awards

Glycerin 6.00

Voldin 0.30

Methylparaben 0.20

Propylparaben 0.10

Imidazolidinyl urea 0.30

Water 65.80

Spices 0.30

The method for producing and producing the cream comprises heating the lipid phase component to 80 ° C., water and glycerin to 75 ° C. to dissolve methylparaben and propylparaben at that temperature, and then imidazolidinyl urea at the same temperature. Dissolve in the mixture, dissolve the boldine in the mixture immediately before forming an emulsion, add the lipid phase while stirring the aqueous phase with the turbine to gradually cool the mixture obtained by the turbine and give planetary stirring, 45 ° C. In which the fragrance is added and cooled to room temperature.

Example 4

Cosmetic products in the form of protective anti-glycosylation and anti-protease creams for aging development according to the invention may for example have the following weight composition:

Formulation

Geological

Stearin Alcohol (and) Steareth-7 (and) Steareth-10 4.00

Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteth 20 2.00

Avocado Oil 3.00

Stearyl Alcohol 2.00

Caprine / Capryl Triglycerides 3.00

Hexyl laurate 2.00

Isopropyl Stearin 2.00

Paraffin Oil 11.0

Ketyl Dimethicone 1.00

Awards

Allantoin 0.10

Voldin 0.30

Butylene Glycol 5.00

Elestab ™ 4112 (Preservative) 0.35

Sufficient content to fill 100.00 water

The process for preparing and producing the cream is to heat the fatty component to 80 ° C. while stirring, and to heat the water + butylene glycol + preservative mixture to 80 ° C. to dissolve allantoin and boldine and to prepare the lipids while stirring the water phase by a turbine. And the final mixture is gradually cooled to room temperature with stirring.

Example 5

Cosmetic products in the form of face lotions according to the invention may, for example, have the following weight composition:

Formulation

Propylene Glycol 5.00

Virginiana Hamamelis Sap 5.00

Boldin 0.10

Elestab ™ 5OJ (Preservative) 0.40

Fragrance qs (sufficient amount)

PEG-40 Cured perm oil qs

Sufficient amount to fill distilled water 100

The method for preparing and producing the lotion is to heat distilled water and glycol propylene to 50 ℃ to dissolve the preservative and boldine, dissolve the fragrance and solvent (perm oil) while stirring, add the Hamamelis sap and stir until cooled Thereafter, the step of filtration.

Example 6

Cosmetic products in the form of anti-apoptotic emulsions according to the invention may, for example, have the following weight composition:

Formulation

Geological

PEG-25 PABA 5.00

Ceteareth-6 (and) Stearin Alcohol 2.00

Ceteareth-25 2.00

Cetyl Alcohol 1.00

Glyceryl Stearate SE 6.00

Paraffin Wax 5.00

Octanoic acid (capryl) / decanoic acid (caprinyl)

Triglycerides 5.00

Dimethicone 0.20

Awards

Boldin 0.20

Butyl Glycol 5.00

Elestab ™ 388 (preservative) 1.50

Allantoin 0.15

Spices 0.20

Sufficient amount to fill 100.00 of distilled water

The method for preparing and producing the emulsion is heated to 80 ° C. while stirring the lipid phase components, the water is heated to 80 ° C., butylene glycol, preservative, allantoin and boldin are added with stirring, and the aqueous phase is stirred by a turbine. The lipid phase is added while the resulting mixture is cooled slowly and the fragrance is added at about 45 ° C. and stirring continued until it is completely cold.

It is clear that the present invention is not limited to the method described above. Specifically, various changes are possible without departing from the scope of the present invention by changing the composition of the various components or substitution of technical equivalents.

Claims (13)

Preparation of cosmetic or dermatological product which prevents or treats the aging phenomenon of tissues by applying to the local, surface of skin, nails and / or hair using the volvo extract alone or added to at least one other active ingredient as an active ingredient Use for. The method of claim 1, Use of a boldo extract consisting of a boldin or an extract enriched with boldin. The method according to claim 1 or 2, For extracts to stimulate activity in metabolism and to stimulate the activity of cell growth. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, The extract has anti-glycation activity of collagen and skin protein. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, The extract has anti-collagenase activity. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, The extract has anti-apoptotic activity. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, Use of the extract having anti-P component activity. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, Use of cosmetic or dermatological products, in particular, for the treatment of actual aging or photoinduced aging of tissues. A cosmetic or dermatological product for treating aging phenomena, specifically photoinduced aging phenomena, comprising an effective amount of volvo extract in the field of cosmetics and dermatology alone or added to at least one other active ingredient as an active ingredient. The method of claim 9, A cosmetic or skin care product consisting of a boldo extract or a boldin-enriched extract. The method of claim 9 or 10, A cosmetic or skin product having a content of boldine of 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 2% by weight. The method according to any one of claims 9 to 11, A cosmetic or skin product in which boldin is in the form of a hydropolyolic or vectorized solution. The method according to claim 10 or 11, wherein Cosmetic or dermal products wherein the boldin is in the form substituted by, for example, amino acids, sugars, lipids or peptides.