JP7721525B2 - Powder cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a powder cosmetic. More specifically, it relates to a powder cosmetic that has a high moisturizing effect and is excellent in stability (adhesion (removal) of the cosmetic from puffs, sponges, etc.) and usability (soft, moist feel upon use).

Powder cosmetics are a cosmetic base commonly used in makeup cosmetics such as foundation and eye shadow. Generally, powder cosmetics are composed of a powder as the main ingredient and oil that acts as a binder or adhesive. Because powder cosmetics are primarily made of powder, the powder tends to absorb oil from the skin, reducing the skin's moisturizing sensation.

As a result, the incorporation of various moisturizing agents into powder cosmetics such as solid foundations has been investigated (Patent Documents 1 to 3). However, when a high amount of moisturizing ingredients is incorporated into a powder cosmetic to provide sufficient moisturizing effect, the molded product softens due to moisture absorption, especially when stored for long periods in humid environments. This reduces strength, making the product significantly weaker against impacts such as being dropped, and more susceptible to cracking. Furthermore, moisture absorption can harden the surface of the molded product, making it unusable, a condition known as caking, and can result in a deterioration in product quality.

Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 6-219925 Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 6-40845 Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 10-175823

The present invention was made in consideration of the above-mentioned situation, and aims to provide a powder cosmetic that has sufficient moisturizing effect while also being excellent in stability and usability.

As a result of intensive research conducted by the inventors to solve the above-mentioned problems, they discovered that by combining a specific gelling agent with a specific polyhydric alcohol, it is possible to achieve excellent moisturizing properties in a powder cosmetic while simultaneously improving stability and usability, and thus completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention provides:
(A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite;
(B) a polyhydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol,
The gist of the present invention is a powder cosmetic in which the blending amount of water is less than 10% by mass.

In particular, the powder cosmetic according to the present invention is
(A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite;
(B) a hydrophilic gel containing a polyhydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol,
The amount of water blended is preferably less than 10% by mass.

The present invention makes it possible to realize a powder cosmetic that has sufficient moisturizing effect yet is also stable and easy to use. In other words, the powder cosmetic of the present invention is less likely to cause caking on the surface of the cosmetic, and therefore has excellent ease of removal (stability) from puffs and sponges. Furthermore, because the cosmetic can maintain a moderate hardness, it is possible to impart a soft and moist feel (ease of use) upon use.

The powder cosmetic of the present invention essentially contains (A) a gelling agent and (B) a polyhydric alcohol. These are described in detail below.

<(A) Gelling Agent>
The gelling agent (A) is selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyetherurethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite, and one or more of these can be used in combination. From the viewpoints of stability and ease of use, hydrophobically modified polyetherurethane, gellan gum, and tamarind gum are particularly preferred. Furthermore, as the hydrophobically modified polyetherurethane, (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer and polyurethane-59 are preferred, and among these, (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer is most preferred.

(PEG-240/Decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer is a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane consisting of a copolymer of PEG-240, decyltetradeceth-20, and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), and is commonly used as a hydrophilic gelling agent in cosmetics. Commercially available products include, for example, Adekanol GT-700 (manufactured by ADEKA Corporation).

Polyurethane-59 is a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane consisting of a copolymer of ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-240, tetradecyl octadeceth-100, and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI). Commercially available products include Adekanol GT-930 (manufactured by ADEKA Corporation).

Gellan gum is a linear heteropolysaccharide with four sugars bonded to the main chain: two glucose units, one glucuronic acid unit, and one rhamnose unit. Commercially available products include Kelcogel (manufactured by DSP Gokyo Food & Chemical Co., Ltd.).

Tamarind gum is a polysaccharide with a structure called xyloglucan, which has a main chain of glucose and side chains of xylose and galactose. Commercially available products include Glyloid 6C (manufactured by DSP Gokyo Food & Chemical Co., Ltd.).

There are no particular restrictions on the agar used, as long as it is primarily composed of agarose, which has a high gelling power, and natural or commercially available products can be used as is. Suitable commercially available products include Ina Agar PS-84, Z-10, AX-30, AX-100, AX-200, T-1, S-5, and M-7 (manufactured by Ina Food Industry Co., Ltd.).

Laponite is a water-swellable clay mineral whose main components are magnesium and sodium silicate. Commercially available products can also be used, such as Laponite XLG (manufactured by BYK).

The blending amount of (A) gelling agent is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.
If the blending amount of (A) gelling agent is less than 0.1% by mass, stickiness and caking tend to occur, whereas if the blending amount of (A) gelling agent is more than 5.0% by mass, the gel tends to become hard and feel rough.

<(B) Polyhydric Alcohol>
The polyhydric alcohol (B) is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, and can be used alone or in combination of two or more of these. Glycerin is particularly preferred from the viewpoint of excellent moisturizing properties.

In the powder cosmetic of the present invention, the blending weight ratio of the gelling agent (A) to the polyhydric alcohol (B) is (A):(B) = 1:2 to 1:15, and more preferably 1:5 to 1:10. Outside this blending weight ratio range, caking tends to occur more easily and the texture tends to be poor.

<Optional ingredients>
In addition to the (A) gelling agent and (B) polyhydric alcohol, the powder cosmetic of the present invention may further contain other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc., as needed, provided that the effects of the present invention are not impaired. These include mainly powder, oil, water, and aqueous components, and other ingredients may also be added, such as water-soluble polymer compounds, thickeners, ultraviolet absorbers, sequestering agents, amino acids, skin nutrients, blood circulation promoters, antiperspirants, disinfectants, anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants, preservatives, and fragrances.

<Powder>
The powders that can be incorporated into the powder cosmetic of the present invention are not particularly limited, but include, for example, talc, sericite, mica, kaolin, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate, calcium phosphate, fluoroapatite, hydroxyapatite, metal soap, boron nitride, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, cellulose powder, silicone powder, zinc oxide and other extender pigments; colorants such as carbon black, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, ultramarine, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, organic tar-based pigments, lakes and other colorants; composite pigments such as titanium mica and iron oxide-coated mica; and powders of these that have been hydrophobized with silicone compounds, fluorine-modified silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, fatty acid esters, metal soaps, amino acids, quaternary ammonium salts, alkyl phosphates and the like. The amount of powder to be blended is not limited as long as the effects of the present invention can be achieved, but it is usually preferably 70 to 95% by mass, more preferably 85 to 95% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

<Oil content>
The oil that can be blended into the powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it can be used in general cosmetics, and examples thereof include liquid oils and fats, solid oils and fats, waxes, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, and silicone oils.
In the following description, POE is an abbreviation for polyoxyethylene, and POP is an abbreviation for polyoxypropylene, and the number in parentheses after POE or POP represents the average number of moles of POE groups or POP groups added in the compound.

Examples of liquid oils and fats include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, camellia oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, and triglycerin.
Examples of solid fats and oils include cacao butter, coconut oil, horse oil, hardened coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, mutton tallow, hardened beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, Japan wax kernel oil, hardened oil, beef trotter fat, Japan wax, and hardened castor oil.

Examples of waxes include beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, privet wax, spermaceti, montan wax, bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, acetated lanolin, liquid lanolin, sugarcane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether, etc.

Examples of hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalane, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, etc.

Examples of higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, tall acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).

Examples of higher alcohols include straight-chain alcohols (e.g., lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, etc.); branched-chain alcohols (e.g., monostearyl glycerin ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecinol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, etc.);

Synthetic ester oils include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, tri-2-ethylhexanoate, Examples of suitable glyceryl triisostearate include glyceryl xanthate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, glyceryl trimyristate, tri-2-heptylundecanoic acid glyceride, castor oil fatty acid methyl ester, oleyl oleate, acetoglyceride, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, and triethyl citrate.

Examples of silicone oils include silicone compounds such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, stearoxymethylpolysiloxane, polyether-modified organopolysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane, fluoroalkyl-polyoxyalkylene-co-modified organopolysiloxane, alkyl-modified organopolysiloxane, fluorine-modified organopolysiloxane, amino-modified organopolysiloxane, silicone gel, acrylic silicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate, and silicone RTV rubber.

Of the above oils, it is preferable to include silicone oil from the viewpoint of ease of use and feeling when used.
The amount of oil to be blended is not limited as long as the effects of the present invention can be achieved, but it is usually preferably 5 to 30% by mass, more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

<Water>
Since the present invention relates to a powder cosmetic, it is preferable that the cosmetic does not contain water, but a small amount of water may be blended as necessary. However, since too much water is likely to cause caking, if water is blended, it must be less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 8% by mass, and more preferably less than 5% by mass, of the total amount of the powder cosmetic. The water is not particularly limited, but examples include tap water, natural water, purified water, distilled water, ion-exchanged water, and pure water.

<Aqueous component>
The aqueous components that can be blended into the powder cosmetic of the present invention can be any water-soluble component without any particular restrictions. Examples of aqueous components include lower alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, as well as chelating agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, etc.

<Manufacturing method>
The method for producing the powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and known methods can be used. For example, a "dry production method" in which a powder component and an oily component are mixed without using a solvent, and then filled into a container and molded; a "wet production method" in which a powder component and an oily component are added to a volatile dispersion medium to form a slurry, and then filled into a container in the slurry state and solidified by removing the solvent; or a production method ("W&D production method") in which a slurry is formed into fine droplets by mechanical shearing force, the fine droplets are dried by blowing dry gas through the droplets, and the resulting dried powder is then subjected to conventional dry molding. Details of the W&D production method are described, for example, in JP 2007-55990 A.
Among these manufacturing methods, a dry manufacturing method that does not include a solvent removal step or a drying step is preferred.

In the method for producing a powder cosmetic of the present invention, it is preferable to premix the gelling agent (A) and the polyhydric alcohol (B) to form a hydrophilic gel, and then mix them with the other ingredients. By preforming them into a hydrophilic gel, the gelling agent (A) and the polyhydric alcohol (B) can be uniformly mixed with the powder ingredients, etc., and excellent usability, such as softness and smoothness when applying the cosmetic, and easy application can be achieved.
Furthermore, when a (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer is used as the gelling agent (A), it is preferable to add a small amount of water to the hydrophilic gel in order to suppress crystalline precipitation. The amount of water blended is preferably such that the blending weight ratio of (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer to water is 1:2 to 1:10, and more preferably 1:3 to 1:8. However, even in this case, as mentioned above, the amount of water in the powder cosmetic of the present invention must be less than 10% by weight.

Furthermore, it is preferable to blend a polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane into the hydrophilic gel, as this improves ease of removal and usability.
The blending amount of the hydrophilic gel is preferably 1 to 20% by mass, more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

The powder cosmetic of the present invention can take any product form within the category of powder cosmetics. Specifically, it can take the form of foundation, eye shadow, blush, body powder, perfume powder, baby powder, pressed powder, deodorant powder, etc.

The present invention will be described in further detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amounts are expressed as mass % of the system in which the component is blended.

<Evaluation of Hydrophilic Gel>
Hydrophilic gels containing different combinations of gelling agents and polyhydric alcohols were prepared and their gelling ability was evaluated, as shown in the table below.
The gelling ability was evaluated by sensory evaluation of each hydrophilic gel (number of samples N=5) according to the following criteria.
A: Very good (forms an elastic gel structure)
B: Good (forms a flexible gel structure)
C: Normal (forms a gel structure that crumbles easily)
D: Poor (no gelation)

As shown in Table 1, it was confirmed that a gel structure was formed when a hydrophilic gel was prepared by combining a gelling agent selected from (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, or Laponite with a polyhydric alcohol selected from glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, or dipropylene glycol (Samples 1 to 7). In particular, a gel with an extremely pleasant texture could be achieved by using a (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer, gellan gum, or tamarind gum as the gelling agent.
On the other hand, when carbomer or xanthan gum, which are widely used as gelling agents for cosmetics, were added instead of the above gelling agents, a sufficient gel structure was not obtained (samples 8 and 9).

<Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6>
The powder cosmetics of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 listed in Tables 2 and 3 below were prepared by a dry process. Specifically, (13) to (25) were first dissolved and mixed at 80°C and then returned to room temperature to prepare a hydrophilic gel. Next, this hydrophilic gel was mixed with the remaining ingredients (1) to (12) and (26) to (27) in a Henschel mixer, pulverized in a pulverizer, and then filled into a resin container. The resulting mixture was then dry-press molded using a known method to obtain powder cosmetics.

The resulting powder cosmetics were evaluated for softness and ease of application using the following methods. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 2 and 3.

<Softness and Ease of Eating>
A panel of 20 experts in cosmetic evaluation was asked to use the powder cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples, and the sensory characteristics (softness, ease of application) were evaluated on a five-point scale according to the following criteria, and a score was assigned to each cosmetic. Furthermore, the average score of the scores of all the panels was judged according to the following four-point scale.
(Evaluation criteria)
Evaluation results: Rating: Very good: 5 points Good: 4 points Average: 3 points Fair: 2 points Poor: 1 point (Judgment criteria)
Judgment: Average score A: 4.5 or more B: 3.5 or more but less than 4.5 C: 1.5 or more but less than 3.5 D: Less than 1.5

As shown in Tables 2 and 3, the powder cosmetics obtained by blending a hydrophilic gel containing a gelling agent selected from (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and Laponite, and a polyhydric alcohol selected from glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, had soft and moist texture upon application, were easy to remove, and had excellent stability (Examples 1 to 7).
In particular, by using any one of (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer, gellan gum, and tamarind gum as the gelling agent, extremely excellent usability could be realized.
On the other hand, when carbomer or xanthan gum was used in place of the gelling agent, when no gelling agent was used, or when polyethylene glycol 400 or PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether was used in place of the polyhydric alcohol, the stability and usability were insufficient (Comparative Examples 1 to 5). Furthermore, when the amount of water was increased to 10% by mass, caking occurred on the surface of the cosmetic, which significantly reduced the ease of removal of the cosmetic and even impaired the appearance of the cosmetic (Comparative Example 6).

Claims (8)

(A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, and agar;
(B) a polyhydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol,
The amount of water is less than 10% by mass ,
The blending mass ratio of the gelling agent (A) to the polyhydric alcohol (B) is (A):(B)=1:2 to 1:15.
Powder cosmetics. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the blending amount of (A) gelling agent is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass relative to the total amount of the powder cosmetic. 3. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is a (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer. (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, and agar;
(B) a hydrophilic gel containing a polyhydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol,
The amount of water is less than 10% by mass ,
The blending mass ratio of the gelling agent (A) to the polyhydric alcohol (B) is (A):(B)=1:2 to 1:15.
Powder cosmetics. 5. The powder cosmetic according to claim 4 , wherein the blending amount of the gelling agent (A) is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic. 6. The powder cosmetic according to claim 4 , wherein the blending amount of the hydrophilic gel is 1 to 20% by mass based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic. The powder cosmetic according to any one of claims 4 to 6 , wherein the hydrophilic gel further comprises a polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane. The powder cosmetic according to any one of claims 4 to 7 , wherein the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is a (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer.