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JP2024533021A - Spun yarn and fabric made from it - Google Patents

Spun yarn and fabric made from it Download PDF

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Publication number
JP2024533021A
JP2024533021A JP2024502639A JP2024502639A JP2024533021A JP 2024533021 A JP2024533021 A JP 2024533021A JP 2024502639 A JP2024502639 A JP 2024502639A JP 2024502639 A JP2024502639 A JP 2024502639A JP 2024533021 A JP2024533021 A JP 2024533021A
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Prior art keywords
spun yarn
fiber
fabric
dtex
fibers
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JPWO2023040923A5 (en
Inventor
健 王
春健 ▲ニイ▼
潤二 濱田
▲ユァン▼ 陳
金碧 許
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Toray Industries Inc
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/12Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using stuffer boxes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36Cored or coated yarns or threads

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

Figure 2024533021000001

【課題】
低コスト、加工プロセスが簡単で、優れた抗ピリング性を具備し、耐摩耗性に影響を受けない紡績糸を提供すること。
【解決手段】
本発明は紡績糸及びそれを用いてなる生地に関するものである。該紡績糸は10回繰り返し伸長後の弾性回復率が50%以上の合成繊維を含み、且つ前記合成繊維の含有量が40wt%以上であることで、摩擦によって繊維が引き出されて毛玉が立つという現象の発生を効果的に抑制し、いかなるピリング防止剤を使用する必要がなく、繊維の強力が維持され、耐摩耗性に影響を受けない。該紡績糸を用いてなる生地はスポーツウェア、カジュアルウェアなどの製造に広く使用できる。
【選択図】 図1

Figure 2024533021000001

【assignment】
To provide a spun yarn which is low in cost, can be processed simply, has excellent anti-pilling properties, and is not affected by abrasion resistance.
SOLUTION
The present invention relates to a spun yarn and a fabric made from the same. The spun yarn contains synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more after 10 repeated stretches, and the content of the synthetic fibers is 40 wt% or more, which effectively prevents the occurrence of pilling caused by friction, and does not require the use of any anti-pilling agent, and the strength of the fibers is maintained and the abrasion resistance is not affected. The fabric made from the spun yarn can be widely used in the manufacture of sportswear, casualwear, etc.
[Selected Figure] Figure 1

Description

本発明は紡績糸及びそれを用いてなる生地に関するものである。 The present invention relates to spun yarn and fabric made using the same.

生活水準の向上に伴い、人々は生地に対する要求も高まっている。紡績糸を用いてなる編物は柔らかい風合や良好な通気性などの長所を持つため、多くの消費者に愛されているが、ピリングし易く耐摩耗性も良くないという問題点が存在する。このため、多くの研究開発が行われている。 As living standards improve, people's demands for fabrics are also increasing. Knitted fabrics made from spun yarn have advantages such as a soft feel and good breathability, and are loved by many consumers. However, they have problems such as being prone to pilling and having poor abrasion resistance. For this reason, a lot of research and development is being conducted.

例えば、特許文献1には35%より大きくない破断伸度及び1.7g/Dより大きくない結節強力を有する低ピル布帛用アクリル系繊維が開示されている。毛玉の形成を効果的に抑制し、抗ピリング性を改善したが、耐摩耗性に影響を与えた。 For example, Patent Document 1 discloses an acrylic fiber for low-pill fabrics having a breaking elongation of not more than 35% and a knot strength of not more than 1.7 g/D. It effectively suppresses pilling and improves anti-pilling properties, but affects abrasion resistance.

また、特許文献2には抗ピリング性ポリエステル紡績糸からなる生地が開示されている。具体的には、抗ピリング性ポリエステル紡績糸と綿紡績糸を生地のタテ糸とし、抗ピリング性ポリエステル紡績糸と羊毛をヨコ糸とし、その中、抗ピリング性ポリエステル紡績糸が紡糸工程でピリング防止剤を添加して得られたものであり、ポリエステル繊維の表面に天然繊維のような構造を形成させることで、生地の抗ピリング性を大幅に改善することが開示された。しかしながら、紡糸工程でピリング防止剤を添加する方法はプロセスが複雑で高コストであり、また、繊維強力の低下を起こって生地の耐摩耗性に影響を与えるという問題も存在する。 Patent Document 2 also discloses a fabric made of anti-pilling polyester spun yarn. Specifically, anti-pilling polyester spun yarn and cotton spun yarn are used as the warp yarns of the fabric, and anti-pilling polyester spun yarn and wool are used as the weft yarns, with the anti-pilling polyester spun yarn being obtained by adding a pilling inhibitor during the spinning process, and it is disclosed that the anti-pilling properties of the fabric are significantly improved by forming a structure similar to natural fibers on the surface of the polyester fiber. However, the method of adding a pilling inhibitor during the spinning process is complicated and expensive, and there is also the problem that it causes a decrease in fiber strength, affecting the abrasion resistance of the fabric.

日本国特開平4-240209号公報Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 4-240209 中国特許出願公開第102505261号China Patent Application Publication No. 102505261

本発明の目的は低コスト、加工プロセスが簡単で、優れた抗ピリング性を具備し、耐摩耗性に影響を受けない紡績糸を提供することにある。 The objective of the present invention is to provide a spun yarn that is low cost, has a simple processing process, has excellent anti-pilling properties, and is not affected by abrasion resistance.

本発明の別の目的は、前記紡績糸を用いてなる生地を提供することにある。 Another object of the present invention is to provide a fabric made using the spun yarn.

かかる課題を解決する本発明は、以下のとおりである。 The present invention solves these problems as follows:

(1)本発明の紡績糸は、10回繰り返し伸長後の弾性回復率が50%以上の合成繊維を含み、かつ、前記合成繊維の含有量が40wt%以上である。 (1) The spun yarn of the present invention contains synthetic fibers having an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more after 10 repeated stretches, and the content of said synthetic fibers is 40 wt% or more.

(2)前記合成繊維の結節強度が2.0~6.0cN/dtexである。 (2) The knot strength of the synthetic fiber is 2.0 to 6.0 cN/dtex.

(3)前記合成繊維がポリエステル繊維である。 (3) The synthetic fiber is a polyester fiber.

(4)前記ポリエステル繊維がポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維および/またはポリブチレンテレフタレート繊維である。 (4) The polyester fibers are polyethylene terephthalate fibers and/or polybutylene terephthalate fibers.

(5)前記紡績糸の撚り係数が2.0~6.0であり、かつ、前記紡績糸を構成する単繊維の繊度が0.5~4.0dtex、長さが35~110mmである。 (5) The twist coefficient of the spun yarn is 2.0 to 6.0, and the fineness of the single fiber constituting the spun yarn is 0.5 to 4.0 dtex and the length is 35 to 110 mm.

(6)前記紡績糸がサイロコンパクト紡績法、サイロ紡績法又はコンパクト紡績法により得られたものである。 (6) The spun yarn is obtained by the silo compact spinning method, the silo spinning method, or the compact spinning method.

(7)前記紡績糸がボルテックス紡績法により得られたものである。 (7) The spun yarn is obtained by a vortex spinning method.

(8)前記(1)~(7)のいずれかに記載の紡績糸を40wt%以上用いてなる生地。 (8) A fabric made using 40 wt% or more of the spun yarn described in any one of (1) to (7).

(9) GB/T 4802.2:2008基準に準じて、前記生地の抗ピリング性が3級以上であり、および/またはJIS L 1096:2010基準 E法に準じて、耐摩耗性が3万回以上である。 (9) The fabric has anti-pilling properties of grade 3 or higher in accordance with GB/T 4802.2:2008 standard, and/or abrasion resistance of 30,000 cycles or more in accordance with JIS L 1096:2010 standard, method E.

(10) 前記紡績糸は少なくとも前記生地の片面に露出し、露出率が30%以上である。 (10) The spun yarn is exposed on at least one side of the fabric, and the exposure rate is 30% or more.

本発明の紡績糸は所定含有量の弾性回復性に優れた合成繊維を用いることで、摩擦によって繊維が引き出されて毛玉が立つという現象の発生を効果的に抑制し、いかなるピリング防止剤を使用する必要がなく、繊維の強力を維持でき、耐摩耗性にも影響せず、低コストであるので、それを用いた生地はスポッツウェア、カジュアルウェアなどの製造に広く応用できる。 The spun yarn of the present invention uses a specified amount of synthetic fibers with excellent elastic recovery, which effectively prevents the occurrence of the phenomenon in which fibers are pulled out by friction and cause pilling, does not require the use of any anti-pilling agents, maintains the strength of the fibers, does not affect abrasion resistance, and is low cost, so fabrics using it can be widely used in the manufacture of sportswear, casualwear, etc.

合成繊維単繊維が延伸された後の弾性回復を示す図面であり、aは伸長部の長さで、bは回復部の長さである。1 is a diagram showing the elastic recovery of a synthetic fiber monofilament after it has been stretched, where a is the length of the stretched portion and b is the length of the recovered portion.

合成繊維の単繊維が延伸された(特に10%延伸された)後、回復過程において延伸回復可能な部分と延伸回復不可能な部分が現れる。延伸回復可能な部分の割合は高ければ高いほど、繊維の弾性回復性は良いである。本発明の紡績糸には10回繰り返し伸長後の弾性回復率が50%以上の合成繊維を含むことで、摩擦過程で前記合成繊維が引き出されても、その多くが元に戻るので、毛玉になりにくい。一方、10回繰り返し伸長後の弾性回復率が50%未満の合成繊維であれば、繰り返し伸長後、疲労現象が顕著であり、摩擦過程で引き出された毛羽は元に戻らなく毛玉になり、後続の繰り返し摩擦に伴い、毛玉がだんだん大きく多くなるため、生地の抗ピリング性は悪くなる。 After a synthetic fiber monofilament is stretched (especially 10% stretched), there will be stretch-recoverable and non-stretch-recoverable parts in the recovery process. The higher the proportion of stretch-recoverable parts, the better the elastic recovery of the fiber. The spun yarn of the present invention contains synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more after 10 repeated stretching, so that even if the synthetic fibers are pulled out during the friction process, most of them will return to their original state, making them less likely to pill. On the other hand, if the synthetic fibers have an elastic recovery rate of less than 50% after 10 repeated stretching, fatigue will be noticeable after repeated stretching, and the fuzz pulled out during the friction process will not return to its original state and will become pills. With subsequent repeated friction, the pills will gradually become larger and more numerous, resulting in poor anti-pilling properties of the fabric.

本発明の紡績糸は、100wt%の前記合成繊維からなるものでもよく、他の短繊維と混紡してなるものでもよい。好ましくは、100wt%の前記合成繊維からなる。こうすれば、毛玉形成の可能性が低くなり、繰返し摩擦されても抗ピリング性が確保できる。本発明の紡績糸は前記合成繊維と他の短繊維とを混紡してなる場合、前記合成繊維の含有量が40wt%未満であれば、引き出されて毛羽立ち且つ毛玉ができやすい短繊維の含有量が高いため、生地の抗ピリング性に極めて大きな影響を与える。よって、本発明において紡績糸の中に前記合成繊維の含有量は40wt%以上であることが要求される。 The spun yarn of the present invention may be made of 100 wt% of the synthetic fiber, or may be blended with other short fibers. Preferably, it is made of 100 wt% of the synthetic fiber. This reduces the possibility of pilling and ensures anti-pilling properties even when rubbed repeatedly. When the spun yarn of the present invention is made of a blend of the synthetic fiber and other short fibers, if the synthetic fiber content is less than 40 wt%, the content of short fibers that are easily pulled out and become fluffy and form pills is high, which has a significant effect on the anti-pilling properties of the fabric. Therefore, in the present invention, the synthetic fiber content in the spun yarn is required to be 40 wt% or more.

本発明の紡績糸は前記合成繊維と他の短繊維とを混紡してなる場合、混紡方法は特に限定されないが、混打綿又はカード工程で原綿混合の方法を用いてもよく、練条工程又はギリング混合工程でスライバー混合の方法を用いてもよく、精紡工程で複本数の粗糸を精紡加撚するなどの方法を用いてもよい。 When the spun yarn of the present invention is made by blending the synthetic fibers with other staple fibers, the blending method is not particularly limited, but may be a method of blending raw cotton in the blending or carding process, a method of blending slivers in the drawing or gilling mixing process, or a method of spinning and twisting multiple rovings in the spinning process.

本発明の紡績糸の中の前記合成繊維は同じ弾性回復率を有する短繊維でもよく、異なる弾性回復率を有する短繊維でもよいが、弾性回復率とも50%以上でさえあればよい。 The synthetic fibers in the spun yarn of the present invention may be short fibers having the same elastic recovery rate or short fibers having different elastic recovery rates, as long as both have elastic recovery rates of 50% or more.

好ましくは前記合成繊維の結節強度が2~6cN/dtexである。結節強度が2cN/dtex未満の場合、短繊維の破断強力が比較的低く、紡績糸の強力に影響を与える可能性があるため、得られた生地は耐摩耗性が低下する傾向にある。結節強度が6cN/dtex超過の場合、紡績糸の強力がある程度高くなるが、繰り返し摩擦過程において形成された毛玉が脱落し難いため、抗ピリング性が低下する傾向にある。 The knot strength of the synthetic fibers is preferably 2 to 6 cN/dtex. If the knot strength is less than 2 cN/dtex, the breaking strength of the staple fibers is relatively low, which may affect the strength of the spun yarn, and the resulting fabric tends to have reduced abrasion resistance. If the knot strength exceeds 6 cN/dtex, the strength of the spun yarn increases to a certain extent, but pilling resistance tends to decrease because pills formed during the repeated friction process are difficult to remove.

前記合成繊維の種類は特に限定されないが、ポリエステル繊維、アクリル繊維、ポリアミド繊維等が挙げられて、好ましくはポリエステル繊維である。前記ポリエステル繊維はポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維(PET)、ポリブチレンテレフタレート繊維(PBT)、ポリプロピレンテレフタレート繊維(PTT)中の一種又は数種である。前記繊維は、生糸を用いて延伸、捲縮、熱セット(130~170℃)、カットなどの工程を経て得られるものである。 The type of synthetic fiber is not particularly limited, but examples include polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, polyamide fiber, etc., and polyester fiber is preferable. The polyester fiber is one or more of polyethylene terephthalate fiber (PET), polybutylene terephthalate fiber (PBT), and polypropylene terephthalate fiber (PTT). The fiber is obtained by using raw silk through processes such as drawing, shrinking, heat setting (130 to 170°C), and cutting.

その中で、PBT繊維の分子構造にはエステル基とベンゼン環構造を有し、レギュラーPET繊維に比べて、基本セグメントにおけるソフトセグメントが長く、融点が比較的低く、主鎖構造が螺旋状であるため、微細捲縮が発生しやすい。PTT繊維の分子構造は「トランス-ゴーシュ-ゴーシュ-トランス」構造を有し、明らかな「Z」字型構造を呈し、また、分子鎖に3つのメチレンセグメントを有するため、分子鎖の間には「奇数の炭原子(メチレン基)効果」が発生する。このような分子構造はPTT繊維にコイルスプリングのような変形能力を持たせる。編地は最も本発明の紡績糸の効果を具現できる用途であるが、PTT繊維のヤング率が比較的低いため、編地の寸法安定性に影響する可能性があり、一方、PTT繊維の伸度が比較的高いため、長時間摩擦又は高強度摩擦されると、引き伸ばされて長くなり、周囲の毛羽と絡み合いやすくなるため、抗ピリング効果が悪くなる傾向にある。よって、本発明においてより好ましくは前記合成繊維がPBT繊維である。 Among them, the molecular structure of PBT fiber has an ester group and a benzene ring structure, and compared with regular PET fiber, the soft segment in the basic segment is long, the melting point is relatively low, and the main chain structure is helical, so that micro-crimping is likely to occur. The molecular structure of PTT fiber has a "trans-gauche-gauche-trans" structure, which shows an obvious "Z"-shaped structure, and also has three methylene segments in the molecular chain, so that an "odd carbon atom (methylene group) effect" occurs between the molecular chains. Such a molecular structure gives PTT fiber a deformation ability like a coil spring. Knitted fabrics are the application that can best realize the effects of the spun yarn of the present invention, but the relatively low Young's modulus of PTT fiber may affect the dimensional stability of the knitted fabric, and on the other hand, the relatively high elongation of PTT fiber makes it stretched and long when rubbed for a long time or with high intensity, and it is easy to be entangled with the surrounding fuzz, so that the anti-pilling effect tends to be deteriorated. Therefore, in the present invention, the synthetic fiber is more preferably PBT fiber.

また、紡積工程で繊維が伸びやすいと、紡績糸の品質低下や強度低下などの問題が発生することもあるので、最も好ましくは、前記合成繊維はヤング率が30cN/dtex以上、且つ伸度が75%以下のものである。 In addition, if the fibers are easily stretched during the spinning process, problems such as deterioration in the quality and strength of the spun yarn may occur, so most preferably, the synthetic fibers have a Young's modulus of 30 cN/dtex or more and an elongation of 75% or less.

前記他の短繊維の種類も特に限定されないが、必要に応じて選択することができる。例えば、天然繊維、再生繊維、弾性回復率が50%未満の合成繊維などが挙げられる。天然繊維としては、綿、麻、毛、絹などが挙げられ、再生繊維としては、銅アンモニア繊維、レーヨン繊維、アセテート繊維などが挙げられる。 The types of the other short fibers are not particularly limited, but can be selected as necessary. Examples include natural fibers, regenerated fibers, and synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of less than 50%. Natural fibers include cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, and regenerated fibers include cuprammonium fibers, rayon fibers, and acetate fibers.

撚り係数、紡績糸を構成する単繊維の繊度や長さも、本発明の紡績糸にとって重要なことである。英式撚り係数を例として、紡績糸の撚り係数が2.0未満の場合、短繊維同士の抱合力が低く、甘撚りの現象が多発し、紡績糸の強力が低下する傾向にあり、精紡工程では糸切れの頻度が増加し、毛羽とネップも増加する傾向にある。撚り係数が6.0超過の場合、単繊維の撚回角が大きくなり、単繊維の強力利用率が低くなり、紡績糸の強力が低下する傾向にあり、また、糸がねじれてスナールが生じ易くなり、糸切れに伴う停台又は生地欠点の発生率も増加する傾向にあり、且つ得られた生地の風合いが硬くなる傾向にある。単繊維の繊度が0.5dtex未満の場合、紡績加工が難しくなり、繊維の曲げ剛性が小さいため、ネップが発生しやすく、生地表面の品質に影響を与える可能性がある。一方、単繊維の繊度が4.0dtex超過の場合、同等条件下で、紡績糸を構成する単繊維の本数が減少し、繊維同士の抱合力が低下し、摩擦過程で毛羽が引き出されて毛玉になりやすく、抗ピリング性が悪くなる傾向にあり、また、単繊維の曲げ剛性が大きいため、カード不十分の可能性があり、形成したウェブの品質が低下する傾向にある。単繊維の長さが35mm未満の場合、繊維同士の抱合力が弱くなり、紡績時に糸切れの発生率が高くなる傾向にあり、また、紡績糸になっても、繊維が比較的短いため、摩擦過程に毛羽が引き出されて毛玉になりやすく、抗ピリング性が低下する傾向にある。一方、単繊維の長さが110mm超過の場合、混打綿工程又はカード工程で損傷・切断が発生しやすく、ネップの数が多くなり、前記ネップは摩擦過程に塊になりやすく、抗ピリング性が悪くなる傾向にある。よって、本発明においては、紡績糸の撚り係数は2.0~6.0で、紡績糸を構成する単繊維の繊度は0.5~4.0dtexで、長さは35~110mmであることが好ましい。 The twist coefficient, the fineness and length of the single fibers constituting the spun yarn are also important for the spun yarn of the present invention. Taking the English twist coefficient as an example, if the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is less than 2.0, the binding force between the short fibers is low, the phenomenon of loose twisting occurs frequently, the strength of the spun yarn tends to decrease, the frequency of yarn breakage increases during the spinning process, and the fuzz and neps also tend to increase. If the twist coefficient exceeds 6.0, the twist angle of the single fiber becomes large, the strength utilization rate of the single fiber decreases, the strength of the spun yarn tends to decrease, the yarn is easily twisted and snarls occur, the occurrence rate of stoppage or fabric defects due to yarn breakage also tends to increase, and the texture of the obtained fabric tends to become hard. If the fineness of the single fiber is less than 0.5 dtex, spinning processing becomes difficult, and neps are easily generated due to the small bending rigidity of the fiber, which may affect the quality of the fabric surface. On the other hand, when the fineness of the single fiber exceeds 4.0 dtex, the number of single fibers constituting the spun yarn decreases under the same conditions, the binding force between the fibers decreases, and the fluff is easily pulled out during the friction process to form pills, and the anti-pilling properties tend to deteriorate. Also, since the bending rigidity of the single fiber is large, there is a possibility of insufficient carding, and the quality of the formed web tends to deteriorate. When the length of the single fiber is less than 35 mm, the binding force between the fibers becomes weak, and the occurrence rate of thread breakage during spinning tends to increase. Also, even if the spun yarn is made, since the fiber is relatively short, the fluff is easily pulled out during the friction process to form pills, and the anti-pilling properties tend to deteriorate. On the other hand, when the length of the single fiber exceeds 110 mm, damage and cutting are easily caused during the mixing process or carding process, the number of neps increases, and the neps are easily lumped during the friction process, and the anti-pilling properties tend to deteriorate. Therefore, in the present invention, it is preferable that the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is 2.0 to 6.0, the fineness of the single fiber that constitutes the spun yarn is 0.5 to 4.0 dtex, and the length is 35 to 110 mm.

本発明の紡績糸の紡績方法は特に限定されないが、ボルテックス紡績法、リング精紡法、サイロコンパクト紡績法、サイロ紡績法、コンパクト紡績法などが挙げられる。抗ピリング性と風合いを両立するために、好ましくはサイロコンパクト紡績法、サイロ紡績法又はコンパクト紡績法である。その中、サイロコンパクト紡績法は、サイロ紡績法とコンパクト紡績法を結合した新型紡績技術であり、2本の粗糸が所定の間隔をもってラッパ口を経て平行的にドラフト機構に供給され、フロントローラーを離れる時、負圧気流吸引作用によって収束され、次いで撚りをかけて一体化にし、構造がより緻密で、毛羽も大幅に減少するため、サイロコンパクト紡績法がより好ましい。ボルテックス紡績法は、ノズル内部に発生した高速化の空気渦流により繊維束に撚りをかけて糸にし、得られた糸が二重構造を有し、芯繊維が無撚りの状態で平行的に配列し、鞘繊維が芯繊維の外周に絡みつき、繊維の頭部と尾部とも紡績糸の内部に撚り込まれることで、構造が緻密で、毛羽が極めて少ないため、より良い抗ピリング性の点でボルテックス紡績法が好ましい。 The spinning method of the spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but examples thereof include vortex spinning, ring spinning, silo compact spinning, silo spinning, and compact spinning. In order to achieve both anti-pilling properties and texture, silo compact spinning, silo spinning, and compact spinning are preferred. Among them, silo compact spinning is a new spinning technology that combines silo spinning and compact spinning, in which two roving yarns are fed to the draft mechanism in parallel through a trumpet mouth with a predetermined interval, and when they leave the front roller, they are converged by the negative pressure airflow suction action, and then twisted to be integrated, resulting in a denser structure and significantly reduced fuzz, so silo compact spinning is more preferred. In the vortex spinning method, a high-speed air vortex generated inside a nozzle twists a fiber bundle into a yarn, and the resulting yarn has a double structure, with the core fibers arranged in parallel in an untwisted state, the sheath fibers entangled around the outer periphery of the core fibers, and both the head and tail of the fibers being twisted inside the spun yarn, resulting in a dense structure with very little fuzz, making the vortex spinning method preferable in terms of better pilling resistance.

40wt%以上の上記紡績糸を原料として生地を製造する。ここでの生地は織物でも良いし、編み物でも良い。本発明の紡績糸を部分的に用いる場合、その他の糸は特に限定されないが、必要に応じて選択することができる。例えば、綿100%の紡績糸、レーヨン100%の紡績糸、ポリエステル/綿の混紡糸(ここでのポリエステル繊維は10回繰り返し伸長後の弾性回復率が50%未満のPET繊維である)などが挙げられる。ここで、編み物は丸編みとヨコ編みでもよいし、経編みでもよい。丸編物およびヨコ編物の組織としては、平編、ゴム編、両面編、パール編、タック編、浮き編、レース編、添え糸編、片畔編等が例示されるが、特に限定されない。タテ編物の組織としては、シングルデンビー編、シングルアトラス編、ダブルコード編、ダブルハーフトリコット編、裏毛編、ジャガード編等が例示されるが、特に限定されない。なかでも、抗ピリング性の点で丸編み物がより好ましい。一方、層数も単層でもよいし、多層でもよいが、前記多層は2層又は層数がより多くの組織である。 Fabric is manufactured using 40 wt% or more of the above spun yarn as a raw material. The fabric here may be woven or knitted. When the spun yarn of the present invention is used partially, the other yarns are not particularly limited, but can be selected as necessary. For example, 100% cotton spun yarn, 100% rayon spun yarn, polyester/cotton blended yarn (the polyester fiber here is a PET fiber with an elastic recovery rate of less than 50% after repeated elongation 10 times), etc. can be mentioned. Here, the knitted fabric can be circular knitted and weft knitted, or warp knitted. Examples of the structure of the circular knitted fabric and the weft knitted fabric include, but are not limited to, flat knitted, elastic knitted, double-sided knitted, pearl knitted, tuck knitted, floating knitted, lace knitted, affixed knitted, and one-sided rib knitted. Examples of the structure of the warp knitted fabric include, but are not limited to, single denby knitted, single atlas knitted, double cord knitted, double half tricot knitted, fleece knitted, and jacquard knitted. Among them, circular knitted fabrics are more preferable in terms of anti-pilling properties. On the other hand, the number of layers may be either single layer or multi-layer, but the multi-layer structure is two layers or has more layers.

好ましくは、本発明の生地はGB/T 4802.2:2008基準に準じて抗ピリング性が3級以上であり、および/またはJIS L 1096:2010基準 E法に準じて耐摩耗性が3万回以上である。 Preferably, the fabric of the present invention has an anti-pilling property of grade 3 or higher according to the GB/T 4802.2:2008 standard and/or an abrasion resistance of 30,000 cycles or more according to the JIS L 1096:2010 standard, method E.

好ましくは、本発明の紡績糸は少なくとも生地の片面に露出し、露出率が30%以上である。もし、生地の片面において本発明の紡績糸の露出率が30%未満であれば、毛玉形成可能の糸の含有量が高く、摩擦による毛玉の発生率が増加し、生地の抗ピリング性が低下する傾向にある。 Preferably, the spun yarn of the present invention is exposed on at least one side of the fabric, with an exposure rate of 30% or more. If the exposure rate of the spun yarn of the present invention on one side of the fabric is less than 30%, the content of yarn capable of forming pills will be high, the incidence of pilling due to friction will increase, and the anti-pilling properties of the fabric will tend to decrease.

また、生地が損なわれない範囲内であれば、後加工工程において、通常の染色加工、吸水加工、撥水加工などを施してもよいし、紫外線防止剤、抗菌剤、消臭剤、防虫剤、蓄光剤、反射剤、マイナスイオン発生剤などの機能を付与する各種加工を施してもよい。 In addition, as long as the fabric is not damaged, post-processing may involve standard dyeing, water absorption, water repellency, etc., and various other processes may be used to impart functionality, such as UV protection, antibacterial, deodorant, insect repellent, phosphorescent, reflective, or negative ion generating properties.

以下、実施例及び比較例により本発明を詳述するが、本発明はこれらによって限定されるものではない。なお、本発明に係る各パラメーターは下記の方法で測定した。 The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples and comparative examples, but the present invention is not limited to these. Each parameter according to the present invention was measured by the following method.

(1)合成繊維の弾性回復率及び混率
A.サンプリング
必要に応じて下記<1>又は<2>によりサンプリングを行い:
<1> 直接的に長さ5cmの紡績糸5本を準備して解撚し、長さ30mm以上の短繊維をサンプルとし、その本数をXと記録し、
<2> JIS L 1030-1:2012基準に準じて生地を構成する糸の種類を判断し、合成繊維を含む紡績糸を分解し、長さ5cmの紡績糸5本を準備して解撚し、長さ30mm以上の短繊維をサンプルとし、その本数をXと記録し、
B.試験設備
Orientecプリンタ(AR-6600-7)付きのRTC-1225 A型引張試験機(INTEC CO.,LTD製)を使って、EXTENSION CYCLE TESTプログラムを選択して伸長回復試験を行い、つかみ間隔20mm、伸度10%、引張速度20mm/分と設定した。
C.測定及び計算
まっすぐで伸長無しの状態下で、前記ステップAで用意したサンプル1本を試験機の上下つかみに固定し、試験開始のボタンを押して、伸度10%まで伸長した後回復させ、同時に1本目のカーブを自動的に描き、1分間後絵図の原点を調整し、指針がミリ座標紙の原点にあり、前記伸長回復の測定手順を繰り返し、2本目のカーブを描いた。合計10回を測定し、10本のカーブを得、図1に示した通り、ミリ座標紙においてaは伸長部の長さで、bは回復部の長さであり、最長カーブのヨコ方向長さをa+bと記録した。下式によって単繊維10回繰り返し伸長後の弾性回復率を算出した。
弾性回復率(%)=[b/(a+b)]×100。
(1) Elastic recovery rate and blend ratio of synthetic fibers A. Sampling If necessary, perform sampling according to the following <1> or <2>:
<1> Five spun yarns each having a length of 5 cm were directly prepared and untwisted, and the short fibers having a length of 30 mm or more were used as samples, and the number of samples was recorded as X.
<2> Determine the type of yarn constituting the fabric in accordance with JIS L 1030-1:2012, disassemble the spun yarn containing synthetic fibers, prepare five spun yarns with a length of 5 cm, untwist them, and take the short fibers with a length of 30 mm or more as samples. Record the number of samples as X.
B. Testing Facilities
An extension and recovery test was performed using an RTC-1225 A-type tensile tester (manufactured by INTEC CO., LTD.) equipped with an Orientec printer (AR-6600-7) by selecting the EXTENSION CYCLE TEST program, setting the grip interval to 20 mm, elongation to 10%, and tensile speed to 20 mm/min.
C. Measurement and Calculation In a straight and unstretched state, one sample prepared in step A was fixed to the upper and lower grips of the tester, the test start button was pressed, the sample was stretched to 10% elongation and then recovered, and the first curve was automatically drawn at the same time, and after one minute, the origin of the drawing was adjusted so that the needle was at the origin of the millimeter coordinate paper, and the measurement procedure of the stretch recovery was repeated to draw a second curve. A total of 10 measurements were made, and 10 curves were obtained. As shown in Figure 1, on the millimeter coordinate paper, a is the length of the stretched part, b is the length of the recovered part, and the transverse length of the longest curve was recorded as a + b. The elastic recovery rate of a single fiber after 10 repeated stretches was calculated according to the following formula:
Elastic recovery rate (%) = [b/(a+b)] x 100.

同様の方法ですべてのサンプルを測定し、各単繊維サンプルの弾性回復率を記録し、弾性回復率が50%以上のデータの平均値を求め、当該平均値を本発明の合成繊維の10回繰り返し伸長後の弾性回復率とする。弾性回復率が50%以上の繊維本数を数えてf1と記録し、下式によって合成繊維の混率を算出した。
混率(%)=(f1/X)×100。
All samples were measured in the same manner, the elastic recovery of each single fiber sample was recorded, and the average of the data with an elastic recovery of 50% or more was calculated, and this average was regarded as the elastic recovery of the synthetic fiber of the present invention after 10 repeated stretchings. The number of fibers with an elastic recovery of 50% or more was counted and recorded as f1, and the synthetic fiber blend ratio was calculated by the following formula.
Mixing rate (%) = (f1/X) x 100.

(2)紡績糸の混率
生地において一つの完全組織に印をつけて、該完全組織の縁に沿ってサンプル1枚を採取した。(もし一つの完全組織のサイズが5cm×5cm未満であれば、5cm×5cmのサンプル1枚を採取すればよい)。すべての糸を抽出してその重量を測ってmと記録する。JIS L 1030-1:2012基準に準じて、生地を構成する糸の種類を判別し、合成繊維を含む紡績糸をピックアップする。前記合成繊維の弾性回復率の測定方法に基づいて、紡績糸の中に弾性回復率50%以上の合成繊維があるかどうかを判断する。弾性回復率50%以上の合成繊維を含む紡績糸の重量を測ってm1と記録し、下式によって生地中の紡績糸の混率を算出した。
混率(%)=(m1/m)×100。
(2) Spun Yarn Blend Ratio One complete structure was marked in the fabric, and one sample was taken along the edge of the complete structure. (If the size of one complete structure is less than 5 cm x 5 cm, one sample of 5 cm x 5 cm should be taken.) All yarns were extracted, weighed, and recorded as m. In accordance with the JIS L 1030-1:2012 standard, the type of yarn constituting the fabric was identified, and spun yarns containing synthetic fibers were picked up. Based on the method for measuring the elastic recovery rate of synthetic fibers, it was determined whether the spun yarns contained synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more. The weight of the spun yarns containing synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more was measured and recorded as m1, and the blend ratio of spun yarns in the fabric was calculated using the following formula.
Mixing rate (%) = (m1/m) x 100.

(3)結節強度
JIS L 1015:2010基準に準じて測定する。
(3) Knot strength: Measured in accordance with JIS L 1015:2010 standard.

(4)抗ピリング性
GB/T 4802.2:2008基準に準じて測定する。
(4) Pilling resistance: Measured in accordance with GB/T 4802.2:2008 standard.

(5)耐摩耗性
JIS L 1096:2010規格(E法)基準に準じて測定する。
(5) Abrasion resistance Measured in accordance with JIS L 1096:2010 standard (Method E).

その中、初回の測定では摩擦回数を2万回と設定し、2万回摩擦後生地の摩耗状況を確認する。生地に破損が生じる場合、測定を停止し、耐摩耗性が1万回と判定する。生地に破損(織物:糸切れ数が2本以上、編物:破損箇所あり)が生じない場合、測定を継続する。継続測定の場合、摩擦回数を1万回と設定し、1万回摩擦後生地の摩耗状況を確認する。生地に破損が生じる場合、測定を停止し、耐摩耗性が2万回と判定する。生地に糸切れ数が2本以上に達しない場合、測定を継続する。継続測定の場合、摩擦回数を1万回と設定し、1万回摩擦後生地の摩耗状況を観察する。生地に破損が生じる場合、測定を停止し、耐摩耗性が3万回と判定する。1万回毎に逐次に破損が生じるまでに生地の摩耗状況を確認する。摩擦回数が累計で10万回に達する場合、10万回摩擦後の生地の摩耗状況を確認し、生地に破損が生じる場合、耐摩耗性が9万回と判定する。生地に破損が生じない場合、耐摩耗性が10万回以上と判定する。 In the first measurement, the number of frictions is set to 20,000 times, and the wear condition of the fabric is checked after 20,000 frictions. If the fabric is damaged, the measurement is stopped and the wear resistance is judged to be 10,000 times. If the fabric is not damaged (woven fabric: two or more broken threads, knitted fabric: damaged areas), the measurement is continued. For continued measurement, the number of frictions is set to 10,000 times, and the wear condition of the fabric is checked after 10,000 frictions. If the fabric is damaged, the measurement is stopped and the wear resistance is judged to be 20,000 times. If the fabric does not have two or more broken threads, the measurement is continued. For continued measurement, the number of frictions is set to 10,000 times, and the wear condition of the fabric is observed after 10,000 frictions. If the fabric is damaged, the measurement is stopped and the wear resistance is judged to be 30,000 times. The wear condition of the fabric is checked every 10,000 times until damage occurs. If the total number of friction cycles reaches 100,000, check the wear condition of the fabric after 100,000 friction cycles. If the fabric is damaged, the wear resistance is judged to be 90,000 cycles. If the fabric is not damaged, the wear resistance is judged to be 100,000 cycles or more.

(6)生地の片面において紡績糸の露出率
生地の片面において二つの完全組織を確定する。まずJIS L 1030-1:2012基準に準じて、一つの完全組織においての全ての糸の種類を判明し、合成繊維を含む紡績糸をピックアップし、前記合成繊維の弾性回復率の測定方法に基づいて、紡績糸の中には弾性回復率50%以上の合成繊維があるかどうかを判断し、当該紡績糸が完全組織での具体的な位置を明確にする。次いで、デジタル顕微鏡(キーエンス社製)を用いてもう一つの完全組織の写真を撮って、A4サイズの紙を使って写真を印刷した後(デジタル顕微鏡の最小倍率でも完全組織の写真を撮れない場合、デジタルカメラを使って写真を撮る)、ハサミで余計の部分を切り捨てて、一つの完全組織のみを残してその重量を測ってGと記録する。前記紡績糸が完全組織での具体的な位置により、紙から関係部分を切り取って重量を測ってg1と記録し、下式によって紡績糸の露出率を算出した。
露出率(%)=(g1/G)×100。
(6) Exposure rate of spun yarn on one side of fabric Two complete structures are determined on one side of the fabric. First, in accordance with JIS L 1030-1:2012, all types of yarns in one complete structure are identified, and spun yarns containing synthetic fibers are picked up. Based on the measurement method of the elastic recovery rate of the synthetic fibers, it is determined whether there is a synthetic fiber with an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more in the spun yarn, and the specific position of the spun yarn in the complete structure is clarified. Next, a digital microscope (manufactured by Keyence Corporation) is used to take a photo of the other complete structure, and the photo is printed on A4 size paper (if a photo of the complete structure cannot be taken even at the lowest magnification of the digital microscope, a photo is taken using a digital camera), and the excess part is cut off with scissors, leaving only one complete structure, whose weight is measured and recorded as G. According to the specific position of the spun yarn in the complete structure, the relevant part is cut out from the paper, weighed, and recorded as g1, and the exposure rate of the spun yarn is calculated according to the following formula.
Exposure rate (%) = (g1/G) x 100.

(7)剛軟度
JIS L 1096:2010(A法)基準に準じて測定する。数値が小さければ小さいほど、柔軟性が高い。
(7) Bending resistance: Measured in accordance with JIS L 1096:2010 (Method A). The smaller the value, the higher the flexibility.

実施例1
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、順次に混打綿工程、梳綿工程、練条工程、粗紡工程、サイロコンパクト工程、巻糸工程を経て、ここで、練条工程:2回練条、ドラフト倍率8倍、定量16g/5mであり、粗紡工程:ドラフト倍率9倍、撚り係数0.6、定量3.5g/10mであり、サイロコンパクト工程:スピンドル回転速度12500rpm、ドラフト倍率49倍、撚り係数3.7、気流圧2300Paで、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸を得た。
Example 1
Using PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex as the raw material, the yarn was successively subjected to a blending cotton process, a carding process, a drawing process, a roving process, a silo compact process, and a yarn winding process, in which the drawing process: two-times drawing, draft ratio of 8, and quantitative weight of 16 g/5 m, the roving process: draft ratio of 9, twist coefficient of 0.6, and quantitative weight of 3.5 g/10 m, and the silo compact process: spindle rotation speed of 12,500 rpm, draft ratio of 49, twist coefficient of 3.7, and air pressure of 2,300 Pa, to obtain a spun yarn of the present invention with a PBT content of 100 wt % and English count of 40.

丸編み機にて、得られた紡績糸を用いて、平編み組織でヨコ密度45ウェルト/インチ×タテ密度62コース/インチの条件下で編成して生機を得、次いで、精練(90℃×20分間)→染色(分散染料DK9Z3、浙江龍盛染料化工有限公司製、120℃×30分間)→後加工(吸湿排汗加工剤 HS-TC-18、珠海華大浩宏化工有限公司製、使用量10owf%、浴中加工80℃×20分間)→乾燥(150℃×1分間)→セット(170℃×1分間)を経て、本発明の編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。 The obtained spun yarn was used in a circular knitting machine to knit a plain knit structure under conditions of weft density 45 welts/inch x warp density 62 courses/inch to obtain a green fabric, which was then subjected to scouring (90°C x 20 minutes) → dyeing (disperse dye DK9Z3, manufactured by Zhejiang Longsheng Dye Chemical Co., Ltd., 120°C x 30 minutes) → post-processing (moisture absorption and desiccation processing agent HS-TC-18, manufactured by Zhuhai Huadahaohong Chemical Co., Ltd., usage amount 10 owf%, bath processing 80°C x 20 minutes) → drying (150°C x 1 minute) → setting (170°C x 1 minute) to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例2
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.2cN/dtexのPTT原綿(上海徳福倫化繊有限公司製)を原料とする以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPTT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 2
The same procedure as in Example 1 was followed except that PTT raw cotton (manufactured by Shanghai Defu Lun Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.2 cN/dtex was used as the raw material, to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PTT content of 100 wt % and a British count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例3
繊度1.70dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度5.5cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とする以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 3
A spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention having a PBT content of 100 wt % and a British count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.70 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 5.5 cN/dtex was used as the raw material. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例4
繊度1.70dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度6.5cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とする以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 4
A spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention having a PBT content of 100 wt % and a British count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.70 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 6.5 cN/dtex was used as the raw material. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例5
繊度1.65dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度2.0cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とする以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 5
A spun yarn and a knitted fabric of the present invention having a PBT content of 100 wt % and a British count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.65 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 2.0 cN/dtex was used as the raw material. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例6
繊度1.65dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度1.5cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とする以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 6
A spun yarn and a knitted fabric of the present invention having a PBT content of 100 wt % and a British count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.65 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 1.5 cN/dtex was used as the raw material. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例7
繊度0.50dtex、繊維長35mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、サイロコンパクトの撚り係数を4.2に変更する以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 7
A spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention having a PBT content of 100 wt% and a British count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 0.50 dtex, fiber length of 35 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex was used as the raw material and the twist coefficient of the Silo Compact was changed to 4.2. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例8
繊度4.00dtex、繊維長110mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、サイロコンパクトの撚り係数を3.0に変更する以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 8
A spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention having a PBT content of 100 wt% and a British count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 4.00 dtex, fiber length of 110 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex was used as the raw material and the twist factor of the Silo Compact was changed to 3.0. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例9
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、サイロコンパクトの撚り係数を6.0に変更する以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 9
A spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PBT content of 100 wt% and a British count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex was used as the raw material and the twist coefficient of the Silo Compact was changed to 6.0. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例10
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、サイロコンパクトの撚り係数を2.0に変更する以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 10
A spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention having a PBT content of 100 wt% and a British count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex was used as the raw material and the twist factor of the Silo Compact was changed to 2.0. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例11
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)からなるスライバーをスライバーAとし、ブラジル綿/アメリカ綿(重量比50:50)からなるスライバーをスライバーBとし、スライバーAとスライバーBとの重量比が65:35で3回練条を行うこと以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が65wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 11
A sliver made of PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex was designated as sliver A, a sliver made of Brazilian cotton/American cotton (weight ratio of 50:50) was designated as sliver B, and the weight ratio of sliver A to sliver B was 65:35, and drawing was performed three times in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PBT content of 65 wt % and English count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例12
繊度1.56dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.9cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)をからなるスライバーをスライバーAとし、ブブラジル綿/アメリカ綿(重量比50:50)からなるスライバーをスライバーBとし、スライバーAとスライバーBとの重量比が45:55で3回練条を行うこと以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が45wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 12
A sliver made of PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.56 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm and knot strength of 3.9 cN/dtex was designated as sliver A, a sliver made of Brazilian cotton/American cotton (weight ratio of 50:50) was designated as sliver B, and the weight ratio of sliver A to sliver B was 45:55, and drawing was performed three times in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PBT content of 45 wt% and English count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例13
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、順次に混打綿工程、梳綿工程、練条工程、粗紡工程、リング工程、巻糸工程を経て、ここで、粗紡工程:ドラフト倍率8倍、定量4g/10mで、リング工程:ドラフト倍率28倍である以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 13
Using PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex as the raw material, the yarn was successively subjected to a blending process, a carding process, a drawing process, a roving process, a ring process, and a winding process, and the same procedures as in Example 1 were carried out except that the roving process had a draft ratio of 8 and a fixed amount of 4 g/10 m, and the ring process had a draft ratio of 28, to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PBT content of 100 wt% and an English count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例14
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、順次に混打綿工程、梳綿工程、練条工程、粗紡工程、サイロ工程、巻糸工程を経て、ここで、サイロ工程:ドラフト倍率49倍である以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 14
Using PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex as the raw material, the yarn was successively subjected to a blending process, a carding process, a drawing process, a roving process, a silo process, and a yarn winding process, and the same procedures as in Example 1 were carried out except that the draft ratio in the silo process was 49 times, to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PBT content of 100 wt% and an English count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例15
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、順次に混打綿工程、梳綿工程、練条工程、粗紡工程、コンパクト工程、巻糸工程を経て、ここで、粗紡工程:ドラフト倍率8倍、定量4g/10mで、コンパクト工程:ドラフト倍率28倍である以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 15
Using PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex as the raw material, the yarn was successively subjected to a blending process, a carding process, a drawing process, a roving process, a compacting process, and a winding process, and the same procedures as in Example 1 were carried out except that the roving process had a draft ratio of 8 and a fixed amount of 4 g/10 m, and the compacting process had a draft ratio of 28, to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PBT content of 100 wt% and an English count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例16
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、順次に混打綿工程、梳綿工程、練条工程、空気渦流紡工程を経て、ここで、練条工程:3回練条、ドラフト倍率8倍、定量11g/5mで、空気渦流紡工程:総ドラフト率150倍、速度300m/分である以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 16
Using PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex as the raw material, the yarn was successively subjected to a mixed fiber combing process, a carding process, a drawing process, and an air whirlpool spinning process, in which the drawing process was performed in three steps, with a draft ratio of 8 and a fixed amount of 11 g/5 m, and the air whirlpool spinning process was performed in total with a draft ratio of 150 and a speed of 300 m/min, in the same manner as in Example 1, to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PBT content of 100 wt% and an English count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例17
実施例1で得られた紡績糸と英式番手30番手の綿糸を用いて1:1割合で交編し、染色工程:まずPBT繊維を染めて(分散染料DK9Z3、浙江龍盛染料化工有限公司製、120℃×30分間)、次いで綿繊維を染める(活性染料RK901、無錫先進化薬化工有限公司製、60℃×60分間)以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明の編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 17
The spun yarn obtained in Example 1 was interwoven with cotton yarn of English count 30 in a ratio of 1:1, and the dyeing process was the same as in Example 1 except that the PBT fiber was first dyed (disperse dye DK9Z3, manufactured by Zhejiang Longsheng Dye Chemical Co., Ltd., 120°C x 30 minutes), and then the cotton fiber was dyed (active dye RK901, manufactured by Wuxi Advanced Chemical Co., Ltd., 60°C x 60 minutes), to obtain a knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例18
実施例1で得られた紡績糸と英式番手30番手の綿糸を用いて1:2割合で交編する以外は実施例17と同様にし、本発明の編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 18
The knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 17, except that the spun yarn obtained in Example 1 and cotton yarn having a British count of 30 were interwoven in a ratio of 1:2. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例19
繊度1.56dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度4.5cN/dtexのPET原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とする以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 19
The same procedure as in Example 1 was followed except that PET raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.56 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 4.5 cN/dtex was used as the raw material, to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PBT content of 100 wt % and a British count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例20
繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料とし、サイロコンパクトの撚り係数を1.8に変更する以外は実施例11同様にし、本発明のPBT含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 20
A spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention having a PBT content of 100 wt % and an English count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 11, except that PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex was used as the raw material and the twist factor of the Silo Compact was changed to 1.8. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

実施例21
繊度1.56dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度4.5cN/dtexのPET原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料Aとし、繊度1.67dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)を原料Bとし、原料Aと原料Bが65:35の重量比で、順次に混打綿工程、梳綿工程、練条工程、粗紡工程、リング工程、巻糸工程を経て、ここで、練条工程:3回練条である以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPET含有量が65wt%、PBT含有量が35wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Example 21
PET raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.56 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 4.5 cN/dtex was used as raw material A, and PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.67 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex was used as raw material B. Raw materials A and B were sequentially subjected to a mixed cotton process, a carding process, a drawing process, a roving process, a ring process, and a winding process in a weight ratio of 65:35, and the process was the same as in Example 1 except that the drawing process was drawn three times, to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PET content of 65 wt% and a PBT content of 35 wt%, and a British count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

比較例1
繊度1.56dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度4.5cN/dtexのPET原綿(中国石化儀征化繊有限責任公司製)を原料とする以外は実施例1と同様にし、PET含有量が100wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Comparative Example 1
A spun yarn and a knitted fabric having a PET content of 100 wt% and a count of 40 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that PET raw cotton (manufactured by Sino-Petroleum Chemical Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.56 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm, and knot strength of 4.5 cN/dtex was used as the raw material. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

比較例2
繊度1.56dtex、繊維長38mm、結節強度3.9cN/dtexのPBT原綿(東レ株式会社製)からなるスライバーをスライバーAとし、ブラジル綿/アメリカ綿(重量比50:50)からなるスライバーをスライバーBとし、スライバーAとスライバーBとの重量比が35:65で3回練条を行う以外は実施例1と同様にし、本発明のPET含有量が35wt%の英式番手40番手の紡績糸と編物を得た。具体的なパラメーターは表1を参照する。
Comparative Example 2
A sliver made of PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 1.56 dtex, fiber length of 38 mm and knot strength of 3.9 cN/dtex was designated as sliver A, a sliver made of Brazilian cotton/American cotton (weight ratio of 50:50) was designated as sliver B, and the weight ratio of sliver A to sliver B was 35:65, and drawing was performed three times in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a spun yarn and knitted fabric of the present invention with a PET content of 35 wt% and English count of 40. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

Figure 2024533021000002
Figure 2024533021000002

上表により、
(1)実施例1と実施例2から見ると、同等条件下で、弾性回復率80%で結節強度3.1cN/dtexのPBT短繊維からなる紡績糸は、弾性回復率82%で結節強度3.2cN/dtexのPTT短繊維からなる紡績糸と比べて、前者を用いて得られた生地の抗ピリング性と耐摩擦性とも後者より優れているが、剛軟度の数値が後者よりやや高く、即ち柔軟性が後者よりやや劣ることが分かった。
According to the above table,
(1) From Example 1 and Example 2, it was found that, under the same conditions, the spun yarn made of PBT staple fiber having an elastic recovery of 80% and a knot strength of 3.1 cN/dtex was superior to the spun yarn made of PTT staple fiber having an elastic recovery of 82% and a knot strength of 3.2 cN/dtex in both pilling resistance and abrasion resistance of the fabric obtained using the former, but the bending resistance value was slightly higher than that of the latter, i.e., the flexibility was slightly inferior to that of the latter.

(2)実施例3と実施例4から見ると、同等条件下で、結節強度5.5cN/dtexのPBT短繊維からなる紡績糸は、結節強度6.5cN/dtexのPBT短繊維からなる紡績糸と比べて、前者を用いて得られた生地の抗ピリング性が後者より優れているが、それぞれの生地の耐摩耗性と柔軟性(剛軟度)が同等レベルであることが分かった。 (2) From Examples 3 and 4, it was found that under the same conditions, the spun yarn made of PBT staple fibers with a knot strength of 5.5 cN/dtex had better anti-pilling properties than the spun yarn made of PBT staple fibers with a knot strength of 6.5 cN/dtex, but the abrasion resistance and flexibility (bending resistance) of the respective fabrics were at the same level.

(3)実施例5と実施例6から見ると、同等条件下で、結節強度2.0cN/dtexのPBT短繊維からなる紡績糸は、1.5cN/dtexのPBT短繊維からなる紡績糸と比べて、前者を用いて得られた生地の耐摩耗性が後者より優れているが、それぞれの生地の抗ピリング性と柔軟性(剛軟度)が同等レベルであることが分かった。 (3) From Examples 5 and 6, it was found that under the same conditions, the abrasion resistance of the fabric obtained using a spun yarn made of PBT staple fibers with a knot strength of 2.0 cN/dtex was superior to that of a spun yarn made of PBT staple fibers with a knot strength of 1.5 cN/dtex, but the anti-pilling properties and flexibility (bending resistance) of the respective fabrics were at the same level.

(4)実施例1と実施例15から見ると、同等条件下で、サイロコンパクト紡績法で得られた紡績糸はコンパクト紡績法で得られた紡績糸と比べて、前者を用いて得られた生地の抗ピリング性や耐摩耗性とも後者より優れているが、剛軟度の数値が後者よりやや高く、即ち柔軟性が後者よりやや劣ることが分かった。 (4) From Example 1 and Example 15, it was found that under the same conditions, the yarn obtained by the silo compact spinning method was superior to the yarn obtained by the compact spinning method in both pilling resistance and abrasion resistance of the fabric obtained using the former, but the bending resistance value was slightly higher than that of the latter, i.e., the flexibility was slightly inferior to that of the latter.

(5)実施例1と実施例16から見ると、同等条件下で、サイロコンパクト紡績法で得られた紡績糸はボルテックス紡績法で得られた紡績糸と比べて、前者を用いて得られた生地の抗ピリング性は後者より劣るが、風合いが後者より優れていて、また、それぞれの生地の耐摩耗性が同等レベルであることが分かった。 (5) From Example 1 and Example 16, it was found that, under the same conditions, the yarn obtained by the silo compact spinning method was inferior to the yarn obtained by the vortex spinning method in terms of the pilling resistance of the fabric obtained by the former, but the texture was superior to that of the latter, and the abrasion resistance of each fabric was at the same level.

(6)実施例17と実施例18から見ると、同等条件下で、PBT紡績糸の露出率が40%の編物はPBT紡績糸の露出率が28%の編物と比べて、前者の抗ピリング性や耐摩耗性とも後者より優れているが、剛軟度の数値が後者よりやや低く、即ち柔軟性が後者よりやや優れていることが分かった。 (6) From Examples 17 and 18, it was found that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric with an exposed PBT spun yarn rate of 40% was superior to the knitted fabric with an exposed PBT spun yarn rate of 28% in both pilling resistance and abrasion resistance, but the bending resistance value was slightly lower than that of the latter, i.e., the flexibility was slightly superior to the latter.

(7)実施例10と実施例20から見ると、同等条件下で、撚り係数が2.0の紡績糸は撚り係数が1.8の紡績糸と比べて、前者を用いて得られた生地の抗ピリング性や耐摩耗性とも後者より優れていて、剛軟度の数値が後者よりやや高く、即ち柔軟性が後者よりやや劣ることが分かった。 (7) From Examples 10 and 20, it was found that under the same conditions, the fabric obtained using a spun yarn with a twist factor of 2.0 had better pilling resistance and abrasion resistance than the fabric obtained using a spun yarn with a twist factor of 1.8, but the bending resistance value was slightly higher than that of the latter, i.e., the flexibility was slightly inferior to that of the latter.

(8)比較例1と実施例19から見ると、同等条件下で、弾性回復率40%のPET短繊維からなる紡績糸は弾性回復率55%のPET短繊維からなる生地と比べて、前者を用いて得られた生地の抗ピリング性はただ2級で、耐摩耗性も後者より劣ることが分かった。 (8) From Comparative Example 1 and Example 19, it was found that under the same conditions, the anti-pilling properties of the fabric obtained using spun yarn made of PET staple fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 40% was only second-class, and the abrasion resistance was also inferior to that of the fabric made of PET staple fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 55%.

(9)比較例2と実施例12から見ると、同等条件下で、合成繊維(弾性回復率65%)含有量が35wt%の紡績糸は合成繊維(弾性回復率65%)含有量が45%wt%の紡績糸と比べて、前者を用いて得られた生地の抗ピリング性はただ2級で、耐摩耗性もただ2万回であることが分かった。
(9) From Comparative Example 2 and Example 12, it was found that under the same conditions, the spun yarn containing 35 wt% synthetic fiber (elastic recovery rate 65%) had a second-class anti-pilling property and abrasion resistance of only 20,000 times compared with the spun yarn containing 45 wt% synthetic fiber (elastic recovery rate 65%).

Claims (10)

10回繰り返し伸長後の弾性回復率が50%以上の合成繊維を含み、前記合成繊維の含有量が40wt%以上であることを特徴とする紡績糸。 A spun yarn containing synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more after repeated stretching 10 times, the synthetic fiber content being 40 wt% or more. 前記合成繊維の結節強度が2~6cN/dtexであることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の紡績糸。 The spun yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that the knot strength of the synthetic fiber is 2 to 6 cN/dtex. 前記合成繊維がポリエステル系繊維であることを特徴とする請求項1または2に記載の紡績糸。 The spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the synthetic fiber is a polyester fiber. 前記ポリエステル系繊維がポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維および/またはポリブチレンテレフタレート繊維であることを特徴とする請求項3に記載の紡績糸。 The spun yarn according to claim 3, characterized in that the polyester-based fiber is a polyethylene terephthalate fiber and/or a polybutylene terephthalate fiber. 前記紡績糸の撚り係数が2.0~6.0であり、前記紡績糸を構成する単繊維の繊度が0.5~4.0dtexであり、繊維長が35~110mmであることを特徴とする請求項1または2に記載の紡績糸。 The spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is 2.0 to 6.0, the fineness of the single fiber constituting the spun yarn is 0.5 to 4.0 dtex, and the fiber length is 35 to 110 mm. 前記紡績糸がサイロコンパクト紡績法、サイロ紡績法又はコンパクト紡績法により得られたものであることを特徴とする請求項1または2に記載の紡績糸。 The spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the spun yarn is obtained by the silo compact spinning method, the silo spinning method or the compact spinning method. 前記紡績糸がボルテックス紡績法による得られたものであることを特徴とする請求項1または2に記載の紡績糸。 The spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the spun yarn is obtained by a vortex spinning method. 請求項1~7のいずれかに記載の紡績糸を40wt%以上用いてなる生地。 A fabric made using 40 wt% or more of the spun yarn described in any one of claims 1 to 7. GB/T 4802.2:2008基準に準じて、前記生地の抗ピリング性が3級以上であり、および/またはJIS L 1096:2010基準 E法に準じて、耐摩耗性が3万回以上であることを特徴とする請求項8に記載の生地。 The fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that the fabric has anti-pilling properties of grade 3 or higher according to the GB/T 4802.2:2008 standard, and/or abrasion resistance of 30,000 cycles or more according to JIS L 1096:2010 standard, method E. 前記紡績糸が少なくとも前記生地の片面に露出し、露出率が30%以上であることを特徴とする請求項8に記載の生地。
The fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that the spun yarn is exposed on at least one side of the fabric, and the exposure rate is 30% or more.
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