JP2013177367A - α GEL STRUCTURE, AND COSMETIC OR SKIN EXTERNAL PREPARATION CONTAINING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

An α-gel structure prepared by blending a large amount of a conventional higher alcohol has poor spread and feels heavy and sticky. However, an α-gel structure prepared without blending a higher alcohol is used. Thus, to obtain a novel α-gel structure having a light and refreshing feel and excellent stability over time, and further providing a cosmetic or an external preparation for skin by blending it.
By combining a monoalkyl phosphate ester having a long-chain alkyl group with a basic amino acid and / or organic base as a neutralizing agent, an α-gel structure is constructed without blending a higher alcohol, and blended with it. The cosmetics or the external preparation for skin were found to have excellent temporal stability, and the problem was solved.
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Description

  The present invention relates to an α-gel structure constructed by a monoalkyl phosphate ester having a long-chain alkyl group, and a cosmetic or skin external preparation containing the α-gel structure.

  In the field of cosmetics, monoalkyl phosphate esters having a short carbon chain length of the alkyl group have been widely used as a base material for cleaning materials. This is mainly because phosphate groups are less irritating to the skin and are milder than other cleansing bases. However, despite the fact that the phosphate group is mild and mild to the skin, the range of use of monoalkyl phosphate esters is not limited to cleansing agents, and there are few examples of use in cosmetics or external preparations for skin. This is due to irritation to the skin due to the short carbon chain length of the alkyl group.

  In other words, by increasing the carbon chain length of the alkyl group of the monoalkyl phosphate ester, its detergency is reduced, but irritation to the skin is also reduced, so it is assumed to be useful as a new formulation base Is done. However, the present condition is that it is not examined to mix | blend such monoalkyl phosphate ester which has a long-chain alkyl group with cosmetics or a skin external preparation. In addition, monoalkyl phosphates with long-chain alkyl groups can form α-gel structures under specific circumstances, and this α-gel structure has a stable gel structure without precipitating crystals even below the Kraft point. Can have.

Usually, α-gel is prepared by blending a specific ratio of hydrophilic cationic surfactant and higher alcohol or hydrophilic anionic surfactant and higher alcohol, and a combination of higher alcohol and ionic surfactant. (Patent Document 1), combinations of ceramides and higher fatty acids (Patent Document 2), and the like have been reported.
However, the preparations formed by these methods contain a large amount of higher alcohols and ionic surfactants or ceramides and higher fatty acids. However, it was not satisfactory in terms of use and feel as cosmetics and skin external preparations.

JP 2010-6716 Patent 4778256

  The present invention provides a novel α-gel structure using a monoalkyl phosphate ester having a long-chain alkyl group, and provides a cosmetic or an external preparation for skin containing the same and having excellent usability and feel The task is to do.

  In view of these circumstances, the present inventors conducted extensive research to find out the construction of a novel α-gel structure and the cosmetics and skin external preparations containing the same, and as a result, without adding higher alcohols or higher fatty acids. The present inventors have found that an α-gel structure can be constructed only with a monoalkyl phosphate ester having a long-chain alkyl group, a basic amino acid or an organic base, and water. Furthermore, the monoalkyl phosphate ester can be mix | blended in arbitrary density | concentrations, It came to obtain the cosmetics or skin external preparation excellent in the usability | feel, touch, and stability with time.

  That is, the present invention comprises (a) a monoalkyl phosphate ester having an alkyl group having 12 to 36 carbon atoms, (b) a basic amino acid and / or organic base as a neutralizing agent, and (c) water as an essential component. Α-gel structure and a cosmetic or skin external preparation containing the α-gel structure and excellent in feel and feel.

  In the present invention, the monoalkyl phosphate ester that has been conventionally used only as a base for cleaning has an alkyl group with 12 to 36 carbon atoms, which is excellent in safety and has a specific neutralizing agent and water. A novel α-gel structure is formed by combining, and a cosmetic or an external preparation for skin containing the α-gel structure. The novel cosmetics and external preparations for skin obtained by the present invention are completely different from conventional preparations, and the entire preparations are novel cosmetics or external preparations for skin having an α-gel structure, which are excellent not only in safety but also in stability. Is.

  Furthermore, in the present invention, the α gel structure is prepared by combining a monoalkyl phosphate ester having a long-chain alkyl group and a basic amino acid or an organic base without blending a higher alcohol or the like. Therefore, it is possible to contain a large amount of water. Therefore, it is possible to prepare an α-gel composition having a refreshing feel that is free from stickiness due to higher alcohol or the like and has a good elongation and excellent stability over time. Thus, it is not known to construct an α gel with only a single surfactant and a neutralizing agent without adding a higher alcohol. Therefore, cosmetics and skin external preparations can be used with this new material. It is very beneficial to prepare.

  Component (a) used in the present invention is a monoalkyl phosphate ester having a long-chain alkyl group having 12 to 36 carbon atoms. A preferable carbon number is 12-30, More preferably, it is 14-22. Furthermore, the long chain alkyl group of component (a) is preferably a straight chain alkyl group. Specifically, Phosten HLP manufactured by Nikko Chemicals is commercially available. In addition, it is easy to synthesize alkyl phosphate esters having different alkyl chain lengths, and alkyl phosphate esters having arbitrarily changed chain lengths can be synthesized. These 1 type (s) or 2 or more types can be used in combination.

  The neutralizing agent for component (b) used in the present invention includes basic amino acids and / or organic bases. Specifically, basic amino acids include arginine, lysine, histidine, tryptophan and the like. Examples of the organic base include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, aminomethylpropanediol, aminoethylpropanediol, and trishydroxymethylaminomethane. Of these, basic amino acids are preferable, and arginine is particularly preferable.

  In the present invention, the total amount of component (a) and component (b) is in the range of 1.0 to 99.0% by mass of the total amount of the cosmetic or skin external preparation, and the α-gel structure in the cosmetic or skin external preparation. Can have a body. Among them, the component (a) is preferably 0.55 to 85.0 mass%, more preferably 2.0 to 35.0 mass%, and the component (b) is preferably 0.10 to 48.0 mass%, More preferably, 0.25 to 28.5 mass% can be blended. Furthermore, compositions having different viscosities can be prepared depending on the blending amount of the α-gel structure, and (a) + (b) is less than 7.0% by mass in order to obtain a low-viscosity formulation of less than 10,000 mPa · s. It is desirable. In order to obtain a high-viscosity preparation of 10,000 mPa · s or more, it is desirable that (a) + (b) is 7.0% or more. Furthermore, as for the compounding quantity of a component (b) with respect to a component (a), 0.5-1.5 equivalent is preferable.

  The α gel structure of the present invention can be prepared by uniformly mixing the components (a) to (c) at a high temperature and stirring and cooling to room temperature.

  In addition, the cosmetic or skin external preparation of the present invention has various components that are usually used in cosmetics or skin external preparations, for example, oily components, higher alcohols, polar lipids, active ingredients, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. , Moisturizing components, antibacterial components, viscosity modifiers, pigments, fragrances and the like can be blended.

  For example, oily components include hydrocarbons such as squalane and liquid paraffin, vegetable oils such as olive oil, macadamian nut oil, jojoba oil, animal oils such as beef tallow, glyceryl triisooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl isooctanoate, isooctyl palmitate And esters such as dimethylsilicone, phenylmethylsilicone, and cyclomethicone.

  Examples of the higher alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol and the like.

  Examples of polar lipids include ceramides, phospholipids, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, and glycolipids.

  As active ingredients, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbate phosphate ester, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbic acid glucoside, arbutin, ellagic acid, lucinol and other NMF components such as amino acids, Examples include water-soluble collagen, elastin, glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, anti-roughing agents such as ceramide, anti-aging agents such as retinol and vitamin A acid, various vitamins, and derivatives thereof.

  Examples of the moisturizing component include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate and the like.

  The use of the cosmetic or external preparation for skin according to the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, it can be applied to various products such as lotions, emulsions, gels, creams, hair gels, regardless of whether they are aqueous or emulsified. Is possible.

  The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Moreover, the mass% shown below is mass% with respect to the whole composition.

An α-gel structure was prepared using an alkyl phosphate ester having the composition shown in Table 1.
The alkyl phosphate ester was diluted with basic amino acid or organic base to a predetermined concentration with water, and sufficiently heated and stirred to be uniform.

(1) Stability evaluation It was stored for 1 month in a thermostatic bath at 5 ° C., and the presence or absence of crystal precipitation was observed using a microscope. The case where the crystals were precipitated was indicated as x, and the case where the gel structure was maintained without precipitation was indicated as ◯.

(2) Tactile evaluation The α gel structures prepared in the examples and comparative examples were evaluated by five specialist panels in five stages as follows, and the average score was evaluated. In addition, the tactile evaluation was not performed about the thing whose stability in 5 degreeC is unsatisfactory.
5: Refreshing 4: Slightly refreshing 3: Not good 2: Slightly sticky 1: Sticky

(3) Confirmation of structure of α-gel structure As described in “Physical chemistry of cetyl alcohol” (written by Shoji Fukushima, Fragrance Journal), the prepared composition has an α-gel structure. It can be confirmed by a line scattering measurement. Each composition was measured, and the case where the presence of the α-gel structure could be confirmed was indicated as ◯, and the case where the α gel structure was not observed was indicated as ×.

(4) Viscosity measurement Each composition was filled in a wide-mouth bottle, and the viscosity at 25 ° C. was measured using a B-type viscometer. The composition of less than 10000 mPa · s was measured under the conditions of rotor number 3, 12 rpm, 30 seconds, and those having 10000 mPa · s or more, rotor number 4, 12 rpm, 30 seconds.

Moisture lotion (A) C18 alkyl phosphate 0.80%
Arginine 0.40%
Hyaluronic acid Na (1% aqueous solution) 2.00%
Glycerin 3.00%
1,3-butylene glycol 5.00%
Xanthan gum 0.10%
Preservative Suitable amount Purified water Remaining amount preparation method: Treat A with a homomixer while heating. When the mixture is cooled and uniformly mixed with stirring, the preparation is completed.
Stability at 5 ° C: The appearance was stable with no change even after 1 month.
Tactile evaluation average value: 4.4
Structure confirmation: α-gel structure could be confirmed by small angle X-ray scattering.
Viscosity (mPa · s): 895

Whitening Gel Latex (A) Ascorbyl tetrahexyldecanoate 3.00%
(B) C16 alkyl phosphate ester 4.50%
Arginine 2.20%
Glycerin 5.00%
1,3-butylene glycol 3.00%
Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount preparation method: A is gradually added while treating B with a homomixer at high temperature. When the mixture is cooled and uniformly mixed with stirring, the preparation is completed.
Stability at 5 ° C: The appearance was stable with no change even after 1 month.
Tactile evaluation average value: 3.9
Structure confirmation: α-gel structure could be confirmed by small angle X-ray scattering.
Viscosity (mPa · s): 8730

Moisture gel (A) cetanol 3.00%
Glyceryl 2-ethylhexanoate 5.00%
Macadamia nut oil 1.00%
(B) C16 alkyl phosphate 7.00%
C22 alkyl phosphate 7.00%
Triethanolamine 4.00%
Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount preparation method: A and B are each heated to 80 ° C., uniformly dissolved, and then emulsified with a homomixer. Then, it cools to room temperature and finishes preparation.
Stability at 5 ° C: The appearance was stable with no change even after 1 month.
Tactile evaluation average value: 4.4
Structure confirmation: α-gel structure could be confirmed by small angle X-ray scattering.
Viscosity (mPa · s): 36400

Moisturizing cream with ceramide (A) Ceramide 2 0.10%
Caprylic acid PG 3.00%
Tri (Capryl / Capric Acid) Glyceryl 5.00%
Stearyl alcohol 2.00%
Cetanol 2.00%
(B) C16 alkyl phosphate ester 1.50%
C18 alkyl phosphate 1.00%
Glycerin 3.00%
1,3-butylene glycol 8.00%
Arginine 1.30%
Xanthan gum 0.30%
Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount preparation method: A and B are heated, uniformly dissolved, and then emulsified with a homomixer. Then, it cools to room temperature and finishes preparation.
Stability at 5 ° C: The appearance was stable with no change even after 1 month.
Touch evaluation average value: 4.2
Structure confirmation: α-gel structure could be confirmed by small angle X-ray scattering.
Viscosity (mPa · s): 39500

Hair treatment (A) Jojoba oil 3.00%
Cyclopentasiloxane 3.00%
Amodimethicone 0.10%
Panthenol 0.50%
(B) C16 alkyl phosphate 6.00%
Glycerin 2.00%
1,3-butylene glycol 5.00%
Arginine 2.70%
Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount preparation method: A and B are each heated to 80 ° C., uniformly dissolved, and then emulsified with a homomixer. Then, it cools to room temperature and finishes preparation.
Stability at 5 ° C: The appearance was stable with no change even after 1 month.
Tactile evaluation average value: 3.8
Structure confirmation: α-gel structure could be confirmed by small angle X-ray scattering.
Viscosity (mPa · s): 15200

Moisturizing gel for eyes (A) Tocopheryl retinoic acid 0.10%
(B) C18 alkyl phosphate 40.00%
C22 alkyl phosphate ester 20.00%
Arginine 27.50%
1,3-butylene glycol 2.00%
Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount preparation method: A and B are each heated to 80 ° C., uniformly dissolved, and then emulsified with a homomixer. Then, it cools to room temperature and finishes preparation.
Stability at 5 ° C: The appearance was stable with no change even after 1 month.
Tactile evaluation average value: 3.9
Structure confirmation: α-gel structure could be confirmed by small angle X-ray scattering.
Viscosity (mPa · s): 87200

  Unlike the conventional α-gel structure, the cosmetic or skin external preparation containing the α-gel structure of the present invention does not require the addition of a higher alcohol and thus has a non-sticky and refreshing feel and has a lamellar structure. Excellent skin moisturizing and skin protection.

Claims (7)

An α gel structure prepared using the following components (a) to (c) as essential components.
(A) monoalkyl phosphate ester having an alkyl group having 12 to 36 carbon atoms (b) basic amino acid and / or organic base (c) water as neutralizing agent The α-gel structure according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl group of the component (a) is a straight chain. The α-gel structure according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (a) has a monoester content of 95% or more. The α-gel structure according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein 0.5 to 1.5 equivalents of the component (b) are blended with the component (a). A cosmetic comprising the α gel structure according to any one of claims 1 to 4. A skin external preparation comprising the α-gel structure according to any one of claims 1 to 4. The cosmetic according to claim 5 or the external preparation for skin according to claim 6, comprising 1.0 to 99.0 mass% of the α-gel structure according to any one of claims 1 to 4. Agent.