JP2001058920A - Cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a cosmetic excellent in preventing the skin from aging and in skin aging-improving effect. SOLUTION: This cosmetic is obtained by including (A) an extract from plants selected from Zingiber officinale Roscoe of Zingiberaceae, Prunus amygdalus Batsch, Sanguisorba officinalis L., Syzygium aromaticum Merrill et Perry (Eugenia caryophyllata Thunberg), Rosa multiflora Thunberg, Craegus oxyacantha L., Betula alba L. and the like having elastase inhibitory effect and (B) a compound selected from hydroxycarboxylic acids, ketocarboxylic acids, amide derivatives, amine derivatives and guanidine derivatives.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for preventing skin aging.
The present invention relates to a cosmetic having an improving effect.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Causes of skin aging include mainly aging, drying, sunlight (ultraviolet rays), and oxidation of lipid components in the skin. They are thought to cause a decrease in mucopolysaccharides such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid in the skin dermis, damage to cells, and the like, and as a result, aging of the skin. More recently, overexpression of elastin, an elastin-degrading enzyme, is said to degrade and destroy elastin, thereby reducing skin elasticity and causing skin aging. Therefore, suppressing the activity of elastase is important in terms of imparting elasticity and firmness to the skin and preventing aging of the skin. From such findings, several elastase inhibitors have been developed (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Nos. 9-87136 and 10-265359).
), But the effect of improving aging was not sufficient.

[0003] An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic excellent in the effect of preventing and improving skin aging.

[0004]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have found that if a plant extract having elastase inhibitory activity and a specific compound such as hydroxycarboxylic acid are used in combination, an excellent antiaging effect on skin can be obtained.
It has been found that a cosmetic having an improving effect can be obtained.

The present invention comprises the following components (A) and (B):
(A) a plant extract having an elastase inhibitory action,
(B) A cosmetic comprising a compound selected from hydroxycarboxylic acids, ketocarboxylic acids, amide derivatives, amine derivatives and guanidine derivatives.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The component (A) used in the present invention is a plant extract having an elastase inhibitory action. This is disclosed in JP-A-9-87136 or JP-A-10-26535.
As disclosed in No. 9, it has an effect of inhibiting the activity of elastin-degrading enzyme, and the degree of activity suppression can be evaluated based on the method disclosed in those documents. The plant extract of the component (A) used in the present invention is preferably an extract of one or more plants selected from ginger, almond, warmoko, clove, age, hawthorn and birch. Ginger is a ginger ( Zingiber officinale Roscoe) belonging to the family Zingiberaceae , and its rhizome is mainly used. Almond is almond ( Prunus amygdalus Batsch) of the Rosaceae ( Rosaceae ), and its seed (sweet peach) is mainly used. Waremokou is a member of the Rosaceae ( Rosaceae ) Waremokou ( Sanguisorba officinali )
s L.), and its roots and rhizomes are mainly used. The butterfly is a myrtaceae ( Myrtaceae ) butterfly ( Syzygium )
aromaticum Merrill et Perry ( Eugenia caryophyllata
Thunberg), whose buds are mainly used. Rosaceae ( Rosa multifl )
ora Thunberg) or its near green plant, and its fruit is mainly used. Hawthorn in the Rosaceae ( Rosacea)
e ) The hawthorn ( Craegus oxyacantha L.), whose main part is mainly used. Birch is a birch family ( Butula alb ) of European birch ( Betula alb)
a L.), whose leaves, bark and xylem are mainly used. These plants have been conventionally used as crude drugs or as food and have excellent safety.

[0007] Extracts of these plants are obtained, for example, by extracting ground products of the above-mentioned plants with a solvent at room temperature or under heating or by using an extraction device such as a Soxhlet extractor. Alternatively, the extract may be diluted, concentrated or dried. In addition, steam distillation method,
Essential oil may be obtained by using an extraction method, a pressing method, or the like.

[0008] As the extraction solvent, water; alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, propanol and butanol;
Polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and glycerin; ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; esters such as methyl acetate and ethyl acetate; ethers such as tetrahydrofuran and diethyl ether; dichloromethane and dichloroethane; Halogenated hydrocarbons; n-
Aliphatic hydrocarbons such as hexane, cyclohexane and petroleum ether; aromatic hydrocarbons such as toluene; polyethers such as polyethylene glycol; pyridines; sodium chloride solution; it can.

Preferably, the almond extract is hydrolyzed using an acid or an alkali. The hydrolysis method is, for example, 0.1 to 20 vol. Of water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, propylene glycol, a mixture of two or more kinds of 1,3-butylene glycol and the like, preferably water and / or ethanol. % Of an acid such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, or phosphoric acid, or an alkali such as 0.01 to 10 N of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Is obtained. At this time, removal of insolubles
It is preferable to adjust the pH to around 7.0 with an acid or an alkali.

These extracts are used after removing inactive contaminants from the extracts by liquid-liquid partitioning, solvolysis and the like, and, if necessary, subjecting them to deodorization, decolorization, etc. by known methods. You may. Further, a fraction having high activity can be fractionated and used by a suitable separation means, for example, gel filtration, chromatography, precision distillation and the like. Commercially available products can also be used for these plant extracts.

From the viewpoint of elastase inhibitory activity, the amount of the plant extract to be added to the cosmetic of the present invention is
0.00001 to 20% by weight (hereinafter simply referred to as "%") in terms of evaporation residue is preferable, and 0.0001 to 10% is particularly preferable.

A hydroxycarboxylic acid used in the present invention,
Examples of the ketocarboxylic acids include linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, β
-Hydroxycarboxylic acids, γ-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-ketocarboxylic acids and the like. As the α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and mandelic acid are particularly preferred. As β-hydroxycarboxylic acids,
Serine, threonine, salicylic acid and acylated derivatives thereof, such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid and 5-
n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 2-hydroxyalkanoyl acids, 2-hydroxy-3-methylbenzoic acid and 2
-Hydroxy-3-methoxybenzoic acid and the like.
Examples of the γ-hydroxycarboxylic acids include hydroxyproline. Examples of ketocarboxylic acids include pyruvic acid, ethyl pyruvate, and acetoacetic acid. The compounding amount of these hydroxycarboxylic acids and ketocarboxylic acids is preferably 0.05 to 10%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5%.

The amide derivative used in the present invention is a ceramide represented by the general formula (1) or a synthetic ceramide represented by the formula (2) or (3).

[0014]

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(Wherein, R ¹ represents an alkyl or alkenyl group having 12 to 32 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a C 10 to 26 carbon atom)
X is a single bond,-
CH (OR ³ ) —, —CH ＝ CH— or —OCH ₂ — (where R ³ represents H or —CO—CHOH—R ¹ , and n represents 0 or 1)

[0016]

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[In the formula, R ⁴ represents a hydrocarbon group having 10 to 26 carbon atoms, R ⁵ represents a hydrocarbon group having 9 to 25 carbon atoms, and Y represents-(CH ₂ ) _m- (where m Represents an integer of 2 to 6). ]

[0018]

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(In the formula, R ⁶ and R ⁷ are the same or different and each represent a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 40 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, and R ⁸ represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a single bond. And R ⁹ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms or a 2,3-dihydroxypropyloxy group, provided that when R ⁸ is a single bond, R ⁹ is a hydrogen atom. preferable. General formula (2) and general formula (3)
Are, for example, N- (2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyloxy-propyl) -N-2-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide, N- [2- (2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)- 3-Hexadecyloxypropyl] -N-3-methoxypropyltetradecanamide is particularly preferred. In the present invention, one or more of these amide derivatives can be used. Further, it can be used by mixing with cholesterol, cholesterol ester, cholesterol sulfate, fatty acids having 12 or more carbons, which are intercellular lipid components. The compounding amount of these amide derivatives is preferably 0.01% to 50%, particularly preferably 1% to 20%.

The amine derivatives used in the present invention include sphingosines, sphingosine analogs represented by the general formula (4) disclosed in JP-A-6-271446, and sphingosines disclosed in JP-A-5-194185. An amine compound represented by the formula (5) or an acid addition salt thereof, or an amino acid other than serine, threonine and hydroxyproline is preferred. As sphingosines, for example,
Sphingosine (sphingenin), dihydrosphingosine (sphinganine), phytosphingosine, dehydrosphingosine, dehydrophytosphingosine, sphingienin, and N-methyl or N, N-dimethyl forms thereof. These compounds preferably have 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and include, for example, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoylphytosphingosine, N (α-hydroxybehenoyl) dihydrosphingosine and the like.

Compound (4) disclosed in JP-A-6-271446 is

[0022]

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(Wherein, R ¹⁰ represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 40 carbon atoms which may have a hydroxyl group, and Z represents —CH ₂ O
H, -CO ₂ H or

[0024]

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Compound (5) disclosed in JP-A-5-194185 is

[0026]

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(Wherein, R ¹¹ represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 40 carbon atoms. R ¹² , R ¹³ , R ¹⁴ , R ¹⁵ and R ¹⁶⁾ Represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms which may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.)

The amino acids other than serine, threonine and hydroxyproline include glycine, alanine, β-alanine, valine, leucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, methionine, cysteine, proline, tryptophan, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid, glutamine, lysine, Histidine, ornithine, arginine, aminobenzoic acid or derivatives thereof are preferred. Among them, 1- (2-hydroxyethylamino)-
3-isostearyloxy-2-propanol, trimethylglycine, arginine, phytosingosine are particularly preferred.

These amine derivatives can be used alone or as a mixture. The compounding amount of these amine derivatives is preferably 0.0001% to 30%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5%.

As the guanidine derivative used in the present invention, general formulas (5) and (6)

[0031]

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[In the formula (5), A and B represent an alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be the same or different, and D represents a single bond, -CO- or a A good alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, E represents a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, an aralkyl group or an aryl group which may have a substituent, l represents a number of 1 to 6, and k represents 0-6
R ¹⁷ represents a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or-
(AO) _m- (BO) _n -DE is shown. However, if R ¹⁷ is a methyl _{group, - (AO) m - (} BO) n -D-E is not a hydroxyethyl group. In the equation (6), j is 1 to 10.
G represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a carboxyl group, a sulfonic acid group or a phosphoric acid group, and R ¹⁷ has the same meaning as described above), or a guanidine derivative or an acid addition salt thereof, represented by the general formula ( 7)

[0033]

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[0034] indicates pyrrolidine, piperidine, a heterocyclic group selected from piperazine and morpholine, R ¹⁸ and R
¹⁹ is the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, a carboxyl group, a carboxyalkyl group or an amidino group) or a salt thereof. Of these, 2
-(2-hydroxyethoxy) ethylguanidine, N-
Amidino-L-proline and 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethylguanidine succinate are particularly preferred. The compounding amount of these guanidine derivatives is preferably 0.0001% to 30%, and is preferably 0.05% to
5% is particularly preferred.

In the present invention, one or more of each of the above components can be used.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components,
Water, as long as the effect of the present invention is not impaired as necessary.
Oils, waxes, silicones, surfactants, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, water-soluble polymer thickeners, pH adjusters, fragrances, antioxidants, chelating agents, pigments, pigments, preservatives, medicinal ingredients, humectants , UV absorbers, powders of inorganic substances such as magnesium oxide and zinc white used in ordinary cosmetics, or powders of organic substances such as polyethylene resin and nylon resin, or powders of cross-linked methylpolysiloxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, etc. Components such as the body can be blended.

The cosmetic of the present invention can be prepared according to a conventional method by mixing the above essential components and optional components as required. The form can be various forms such as liquid, emulsion, cream, tablet, capsule, powder, granule, sheet and the like. In addition, any kind of cosmetics may be used, such as skin care cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, skin cleansing agents, bath additives, and the like.

[0038]

EXAMPLES Reference Example 1 Production of ginger extract Ginger was cut into small pieces, 50 g of 50 g of ethanol was added to 50 g, and immersed at room temperature for 2 days. This was filtered to obtain a ginger extract. When this ginger extract was concentrated, its evaporation residue was 2.59 g.

REFERENCE EXAMPLE 2 Production of Waremokou Extract Waremokou (Jiyu) was cut into pieces, and 50 g of the cut pieces were mixed with 500 mL of 90% ethanol and immersed at room temperature for 2 days. This was filtered to obtain an extract of Warmokoko. As a result of concentration of the extract, the residue of evaporation was 1.50 g.

Reference Example 3 Production of Clove Extract Clove (clove) was cut into small pieces, and 500 g of 95 vol% ethanol was added to 50 g of the cut pieces, followed by immersion at room temperature for 2 days. This was filtered to obtain a clove extract. When this clove extract was concentrated, the evaporation residue was 1.46 g.

Reference Example 4 Production of Agetsu Extract Agetsu was cut into small pieces, and 500 g of water was added to 50 g of the pieces, followed by immersion at room temperature for 2 days. This was filtered to obtain an Age extract. When this Age extract was concentrated, the evaporation residue was 2.28 g.

Reference Example 5 Production of a Hawthorn Extract A hawthorn extract was cut into small pieces, and 500 g of 95 vol% ethanol was added to 50 g of the cut pieces and immersed at room temperature for 2 days. This was filtered to obtain a hawthorn extract. When this hawthorn extract was concentrated, its evaporation residue was 3.09 g.

Reference Example 6 Production of Birch Extract Birch was cut into small pieces, and 50 g of the birch was added with 500 mL of 95 vol% ethanol and immersed at room temperature for 2 days. This was filtered to obtain a birch extract. When this birch extract was concentrated, the evaporation residue was 3.13 g.

Reference Example 7 Production of Hydrolyzed Almond Extract 50 g of almond was extracted with a 5 vol% sulfuric acid solution,
After adjusting the pH to 7.0 with an N sodium hydroxide solution, insolubles were removed to obtain a hydrolyzed almond extract having an evaporation residue of 2.1%.

Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 Cosmetics were produced according to the conventional methods with the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 3.

[0046]

[Table 1]

[0047]

[Table 2]

[0048]

[Table 3]

Amine derivative: 1- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-isostearyloxy-2-propanol amide derivative I: N- (2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyloxypropyl) -N-2-hydroxyethyl Hexadecanamide amide derivative II: N- [2- (2,3-dihydroxypropoxy) -3-hexadecyloxypropyl] -3-
Hexadecyloxypropyl] -N-3-methoxypropyltetradecanamide guanidine derivative I: 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy)
Ethylguanidine guanidine derivative II: N-amidino-L-proline ceramide: natural ceramide obtained from bovine brain disclosed in JP-A-63-192703

Test Example 1 Investigation of the Effect of Each Cosmetic on Wrinkles Formed in Hairless Mice by UVB Irradiation A hairless mouse (HR / ICR, 9 weeks old at the start of the experiment) was equipped with a Toshiba health line lamp 20SE.
This was used to irradiate UVB light three times a week. The amount of energy is UV-Radiome manufactured by TOKYO OPTICAL.
Measured using ter UVR-305 / 365D.
The irradiation amount at one time was set to 1 MED or less, and the energy amount was set to 65 mJ at an energy amount of 0.28 mW / cm ² . The irradiation period is 20 weeks,
After confirming that wrinkles were formed on the back of the hairless mouse, the mice were divided into groups of 8 animals, and the cosmetics shown in Tables 1 to 3 were continuously applied 80 μl five times a week for 6 weeks. After the completion of the application, the degree of wrinkles was visually evaluated according to the following criteria (wrinkle index). The results are shown in Tables 1 to 3. (Wrinkle index evaluation standard) 1: Wrinkles completely disappeared. 2: Slight wrinkles remain. 3: There are some wrinkles. 4: There are very wrinkles.

As shown in Tables 1 to 3, the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 11 were superior to the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 to 5 in the effect of improving wrinkles.

[0052] Cosmetics of each composition shown in Examples 12 to 14 were produced by each production method.

Example 12 Moisturizing lotion:

(Components) (% by weight) 1) Ginger extract 0.2 2) Ethanol 6.0 3) 2- (2-Hydroxyethoxy) ethylguanidine 2.0 4) Trimethylglycine (manufactured by Ajinomoto) 2 5.5 5) Hydrolyzed almond extract 0.83 6) Guanidine derivative II 1.5 7) Glycerin 3.0 8) Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.2 9) Trisethoxyethoxyethyl phosphate 3.0 10) Purified water balance

(Preparation method) 1), 3) to 7) are added to purified water and dissolved (aqueous part). 8) and 9) are dissolved in 2) (alcohol part). Add alcohol part to water part to get moisturizing lotion.

Example 13 Moisturizing essence:

(Components) (% by weight) 1) Acidic polysaccharide ^{* 1} 0.2 2) Xanthan gum 0.5 3) Ethanol 6.4 4) 1- (2-Hydroxyethylamino) -3-isostearyloxy -2-propanol 0.2 5) phytosphingosine (CosmoPharm) 0.2 6) 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethyl guanidine succinate 2.5 7) polymethylsiloxane 5cs (Shin-Etsu Silicone) 0.838 9) Glycerin 12.0 10) Dipropylene glycol 3.0 11) Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.2 12) Polyoxyethylene isocetyl ether (20E.O.) 0.3 13) Waremokou extract 0.2 14) Ginger extract 0.2 15) Purified water balance * 1: Tuberose produced according to Example 1 of JP-A-64-10997 An acidic heteropolysaccharide derived from the callus of S. aureus was used.

(Production method) 2) is added to and dissolved in purified water, and after heating and dissolving, the mixture is cooled to room temperature (aqueous part). 3) to 9) to 1
Add 2) and dissolve (alcohol part). 4) ~
8) and then the alcohol part, then 1), 1
3) and 14) are added to obtain a moisturizing essence.

Example 14 Moisturizing cream:

Table 6 (Components) (% by weight) 1) Vaseline 8.0 2) N- (3-hexadecyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) -N-2-hydroxyethylhexadecanamid 2.0 3) Squalene 20.0 4) Cetanol 5.0 5) Glycerin monostearate 2.0 6) Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20E.O.) 2.0 7) Ethyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.2 8) Arginine 0.1 9) Ceramide III (Cosmo Farm) 0.5 10) Trimethylglycine (Ajinomoto) 0.6 11) Sodium hydrogen phosphate 0.86 12) Glycerin 5.0 13) 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 14 ) Warm coconut extract 0.2 15) Ginger extract 0.2 16) Dimethylsiloxane (silicone KF96A 5cs Shin-Etsu Silicone) 3.0 17) Asnaro extract (50% 1 .3BG extract) 1.0 18) Suitable amount of perfume 19) Purified water balance

(Preparation method) 1) to 7) are kept at 80 ° C. (oil phase). To the solution of 8) to 17) in 19), add the oil phase with stirring, and then add 18). After the homomixer treatment, the mixture is rapidly cooled to obtain a moisturizing cream.

Each of the cosmetics obtained in Examples 12 to 14 was excellent in the effect of preventing and improving skin aging, was excellent in the moisturizing softness effect, and did not cause any change in appearance such as browning.

Example 15 A sheet-form pack composition and a sheet-form pack were produced by the following formulation and production method. (Formulation of pack composition)

[0061]

Table 7 (Components) (Content) 1) Isostearyl glyceryl ether 2.0 2) 1- (2-Hydroxyethylamino) -3-isostearyloxy-2-propanol 0.1 3) Succinic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethyl guanidine 5.0 4) Sodium polyacrylate 6.0 5) Polyacrylic acid 2.5 6) Glycerin 25.0 7) Isopropyl myristate 2.0 8) Squalane 4.0 9) Aluminum hydroxide gel 0.2 10) Light anhydrous silica 2.0 11) Polysorbate 80 2.0 12) Warmberry extract 0.5 13) Clove extract 0.2 14) Age extract 0.2 15) Seyo Hawthorn extract 0.2 16) Birch extract 0.2 17) Purified water balance

(Production method) Using a kneader, the above components 1), 2), 6), 7) and 8) are uniformly blended, and components 4), 5) and 9) are added and kneaded uniformly. Then, components 3) and 10) to 17) were added, and the mixture was further uniformly kneaded to obtain a plaster. The plaster was uniformly applied on a polyester film, covered with a nonwoven fabric, molded into a predetermined shape, packaged, and aged to produce a sheet pack.

The obtained sheet pack was excellent in the effect of preventing and improving skin aging.

[0064]

According to the cosmetic of the present invention, skin aging can be effectively prevented and improved.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification Symbol FI Theme Court ゛ (Reference) A61K 7/48 A61K 7/48 (72) Inventor Keiko Suzuki 2-1-3 Bunka, Sumida-ku, Tokyo Kao In-house Research Institute (72) Inventor Yusuke Shibuya 2606 Akabane, Kaga-cho, Haga-gun, Tochigi Prefecture F-Term in Research Institute of Kao Corporation 4C083 AA111 AA112 AB172 AB222 AB282 AC012 AC022 AC072 AC102 AC122 AC182 AC231 AC301 AC302 AC352 AC422 AC442 AC482 AC542 AC582 AC641 AC642 AC742 AC852 AC902 AC042 AD092 AD152 AD352 CC01 CC04 CC07 DD12 DD23 DD27 EE07 EE12 EE13 FF01 FF05

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A compound selected from the following components (A) and (B), (A) a plant extract having an elastase inhibitory action, (B) a hydroxycarboxylic acid, a ketocarboxylic acid, an amide derivative, an amine derivative and a guanidine derivative. ,
Cosmetics containing. 2. A plant extract having (A) an elastase-inhibiting activity, comprising ginger, almond, warmoko,
The cosmetic according to claim 1, which is an extract of one or more plants selected from clove, age, hawthorn and birch.