HK1221491B - Elastic circular knitted fabric - Google Patents
Elastic circular knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- HK1221491B HK1221491B HK16109642.5A HK16109642A HK1221491B HK 1221491 B HK1221491 B HK 1221491B HK 16109642 A HK16109642 A HK 16109642A HK 1221491 B HK1221491 B HK 1221491B
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Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to an elastic circular knitted fabric which is excellent in stretchability and stretch recovery and which can be used for clothing such as sportswear and sportswear.
Background
Conventionally, elastic circular knitted fabrics containing elastic yarns have been widely used as underwear such as shorts, corset, and brassiere, and clothing for sportswear such as undershirts and swimwear to be attached to the body, and various products have been sold. In addition, the elastic circular knitted fabric including the elastic yarn is used not only for clothing to be fitted to the body but also for sportswear such as T-shirts, winddresses, and dresses. In general, a circular knitted fabric has a structure such that the fabric is well stretched in the weft direction, but the fabric is very little stretched in the warp direction compared to the weft direction, and therefore, the circular knitted fabric is insufficient in the sense of tightness and displacement during movement when worn as a product by a person.
In addition, in such a knitted fabric having a large difference in extensibility in the warp direction and the weft direction, since it is necessary to cut the fabric so that the direction in which stress acts when the garment is actually worn and the direction in which the fabric is likely to extend coincide with each other, there is also a problem that the method of using the fabric is greatly restricted.
Therefore, in order to exhibit extensibility in both the warp and weft directions with an appropriate balance, a circular knitted fabric has been proposed which has a problem that, when a circular knitted fabric having two needle beds (japanese: two-row electric-hand bed) is knitted with all the needles independently, a covering yarn (covering yarn) or a core yarn (covering yarn) having an elastic yarn as a core is fed to one of the needle beds to have a warp elongation, but the connection of the elastic yarn in the warp directions of extensibility in the right and left warp directions and restorability is intermittent, and as a result, the recovery property at the time of making the fabric is insufficient in the following motion (see patent document 1 below).
Further, a circular knitted fabric has been proposed which is excellent in soft elasticity in both the warp and weft directions (japanese: ソフトストレッチ properties) by using a specific copolymerized elastic yarn and defining the stitch length of the inelastic fiber, but the specific copolymerized elastic yarn has a problem of poor practical performance as clothing because of low abrasion resistance (see patent document 2 below).
In recent years, clothing that is closely attached to the body has been demanded for clothing that not only stretches and contracts in accordance with the movement of the body but also has an extension function of supporting the movement of the body, and clothing that is not attached to the body has been demanded for clothing that reduces the stress during wearing movements such as a sense of tightness and a shift of clothing during exercise and daily movements. However, according to the knitted fabric of the above-described conventional technique, it is difficult to obtain a clothing which is elongated to the same extent in both the warp and weft directions and has excellent elongation recovery property, and thus has good motion following property and no poor practical performance such as wear resistance.
Documents of the prior art
Patent document
Patent document 1: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 60-94654
Patent document 2: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2005-213662
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
The present invention has been made to solve the above-described problems of the conventional techniques, and an object of the present invention is to provide an elastic knitted fabric which is suitable for clothing such as underwear, sportswear, swimwear, and sportswear and which is excellent in extensibility, restorability, sportswear, and wearing sensation.
Means for solving the problems
The present inventors have conducted extensive studies to solve the above problems and have repeatedly conducted experiments such as a knitted fabric having a new structure and a wearing test, and as a result, have finally completed the present invention.
Namely, the present invention is as follows.
(1) An elastic circular knitted fabric comprising an elastic fiber and a non-elastic fiber, wherein knitted loops containing the elastic fiber are continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, the row of the knitted loops is arranged in the weft direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio of at least one knitted loop containing the elastic fiber out of two rows of the knitted loops, the opening angle of the fiber bundle constituting the knitted loops of the non-elastic fiber is 50 to 150 degrees, the elongation force in the warp direction and the elongation force in the weft direction at 80% elongation of the elastic circular knitted fabric are both 100 to 800cN, the ratio of the elongation force in the warp direction to the elongation force in the weft direction is 0.5 to 1.8, and the elongation recovery rate in the warp direction and the elongation recovery rate in the weft direction after repeating 80% elongation and recovery three times are both 85% or more.
(2) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to the item (1), wherein the yarn length index of the non-elastic fiber per 1 square inch of the knitted fabric is 5000 to 15000.
(3) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to the above (1) or (2), wherein a ratio of the warp density to the weft density is 1.5 to 2.0.
(4) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to any one of the above (1) to (3), wherein the fineness of the elastic fiber is 15dtex to 80 dtex.
(5) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to any one of the above (1) to (4), wherein the basis weight is 100g/m2~400g/m2。
(6) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (5) above, wherein the wear resistance is three or more stages.
(7) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to any one of the above (1) to (6), wherein the knitted fabric is a plain knit and the inelastic fiber is at least two types.
(8) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to any one of the above (1) to (6), wherein the knitted fabric is an inlay weave, the number of flies of the inelastic fibers of the inlay knitting on the back side of the knitted fabric is 1 to 3, and at least one of the inelastic fibers has crimp.
(9) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (6) above, wherein the knitted fabric is a tuck stitch.
(10) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (6) above, wherein the knitted fabric is a honeycomb structure.
(11) The elastic circular knitted fabric according to any one of the above (1) to (10), wherein the elastic circular knitted fabric contains cellulose fibers.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
When the fabric stretches following the movement of the human body in the stretching direction, the stress in the stretching direction and the stress of the fabric in the circumferential direction of the human body have a large influence on the wearing feeling, but the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention has a predetermined stretch in both the warp direction and the weft direction of the knitted fabric, and therefore, is excellent in operability, motion following property, and wearing-off property, and is excellent in wearing comfort, and further, since the unnecessary stretch of the fabric can be suppressed, the durability of the fabric can be improved.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a structural view of the knitted loop of the present embodiment.
Fig. 2 is a view showing the opening angle of the fiber bundle constituting the terry knitted in the present embodiment.
Fig. 3 shows an apparatus for evaluating the instantaneous recovery of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment.
Fig. 4 is an example of a structure diagram of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment.
Fig. 5 is an example of a structure diagram of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment.
Fig. 6 is an example of a structure diagram of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment.
Fig. 7 is an example of a structure diagram of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment.
Fig. 8 is an example of a structure diagram of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment.
Fig. 9 is an example of a structure diagram of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment.
Fig. 10 is an example of a structure diagram of a conventional knitted fabric.
Fig. 11 is an example of a structure diagram of a conventional knitted fabric.
Detailed Description
The present invention is described in detail below.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized by being formed using elastic fibers and inelastic fibers.
The non-elastic fibers used in the embodiments of the present invention may be any of filament yarns or spun yarns.
Specifically, the filament yarn preferably includes polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber, vinyl chloride fiber, cellulose fiber and other synthetic fibers, the filament yarn may be in the form of a raw yarn (raw yarn), a false twisted yarn, a colored yarn, or the like, or may be a composite yarn thereof, the filament yarn may have a cross-sectional shape of, for example, △, cross, W, M, C, I, dog bone, or hollow yarn, and the like, and the spun yarn may preferably include cotton yarn, wool, hemp and other natural fibers, polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber, vinyl chloride fiber, cellulose fiber and other synthetic fibers, and these may be formed alone or by blending.
The elastic fiber may be a polyurethane elastic yarn, a polyether ester elastic yarn, a polyamide elastic yarn, a polyolefin elastic yarn, or a covered yarn obtained by covering these yarns with a non-elastic fiber. In addition, a yarn-like, so-called rubber yarn containing natural rubber, synthetic rubber, or semi-synthetic rubber can be used, but a polyurethane elastic yarn which is excellent in stretchability and is widely used in general is preferably used. The polyurethane elastic yarn is produced by chain-extending a prepolymer from polytetramethylene glycol, or a copolyether polyol of tetrahydrofuran and 3-alkyltetrahydrofuran, or the like, and diphenylmethane-4, 4-diisocyanate using ethylene diamine, or 2-methyl-1, 5-pentanediamine, ethylene diamine, or the like as a chain extender.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment is characterized in that the knitted loops containing elastic fibers are continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and the row of the knitted loops containing elastic fibers is arranged in the weft direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio that at least one of two rows of the knitted loops has one row of the knitted loops containing elastic fibers. The knitted loops are connected in the warp direction means that the knitted loops are connected in the length direction of the knitted fabric. As further detailed in fig. 1, in the elastic fiber-containing terry loops 1a to 1c, 3a to 3c, and 5a to 5c in fig. 1, the connection in the warp direction means that 1a, 1b and 1c are connected, 3a, 3b and 3c are connected, and 5a, 5b and 5c are connected.
The term "the row of the knitted loop connected in the warp direction is arranged in the weft direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio of at least one row of the two rows of the knitted loops containing the elastic fiber" means that the row of the knitted loops connected in the warp direction is arranged in the width direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio of one row of the two rows of the knitted loops containing the elastic fiber. As will be described in more detail with reference to fig. 1, the rows 1a, 1b, and 1c, the rows 3a, 3b, and 3c, and the rows 5a, 5b, and 5c of the elastic fiber-containing terry knit loops connected in the warp direction in fig. 1 are alternately arranged with the rows 2a, 2b, and 2c, and the rows 4a, 4b, and 4c of the elastic fiber-free terry knit loops, and the rows of the elastic fiber-containing terry knit loops are arranged at a ratio of one row of the elastic fiber-containing terry knit loops in two rows of the terry knit loops. By connecting the knitted loops containing elastic fibers in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, the stretchability of the elastic fibers is exerted in the warp direction of the circular knitted fabric, and the elongation of the circular knitted fabric in the warp direction is improved. However, if the proportion of the elastic fibers is gradually decreased (the number of the rows of the knitted loops containing only the inelastic fibers is increased) so that the three rows of the knitted loops have one row of the knitted loops containing the elastic fibers and the four rows of the knitted loops have one row of the knitted loops containing the elastic fibers, the effect of improving the elongation in the warp direction of the circular knitted fabric by the elastic fibers is decreased, and it is difficult to obtain a knitted fabric having a good balance between the elongation in the warp direction and the elongation in the weft direction. These structures include a yarn arrangement of a knitting structure and elastic fibers, and the knitting structure is preferably plain, inlay, circular knitting, circular rib (japanese: フライス), etc., but the structure is not limited thereto, and may be any structure such as tuck, honeycomb, mesh, stretch (comfort), etc., as long as the yarn arrangement is provided so that knitted loops containing elastic fibers are connected in the weft direction.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment is characterized in that the opening angle of the fiber bundle constituting the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber is in the range of 50 degrees to 150 degrees. The angle is preferably 60 degrees to 140 degrees, more preferably 70 degrees to 130 degrees, further preferably 80 degrees to 120 degrees, and particularly preferably 90 degrees to 110 degrees. If the opening angle of the fiber bundle constituting the knitted loop of inelastic fibers is less than 50 degrees or exceeds 150 degrees, the balance between the elongation in the warp direction and the elongation in the weft direction is deteriorated, and the garment becomes less movable when worn as a garment. In addition, as for the "opening angle of the fiber bundle constituting the loop of the non-elastic fiber" defined in the present invention, an enlarged photograph of the surface of the knitted fabric is taken, and as shown in fig. 2, a line (D) is drawn at the center of the upper left fiber bundle constituting the loop of the knitted fabric, and then a line (E) is drawn at the center of the upper right fiber bundle constituting the loop of the knitted fabric in the same manner. The angles (F) of the lines of (D) and (E) were measured at ten locations in total, and the value obtained as the average value thereof was defined as "opening angle of fiber bundle constituting loop knit of inelastic fiber".
When two or more types of inelastic fibers are used, it is necessary to set the opening angle in a predetermined range in all inelastic fibers.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment is characterized in that the elongation force in the warp direction and the weft direction at 80% elongation of the elastic circular knitted fabric is 100cN to 800cN, and the ratio of the elongation force in the warp direction to the elongation force in the weft direction is 0.5 to 1.8.
The elongation force in the warp direction and the weft direction is preferably 200cN to 700cN, more preferably 300cN to 600cN, and still more preferably 400cN to 500 cN. If the elongation force is less than 100cN, the fit is poor and the elongation recovery is poor. If the elongation force exceeds 800cN, the elongation force is too large, and a sense of tightness may be felt during exercise. The ratio of the elongation force is preferably 0.6 to 1.7, more preferably 0.7 to 1.6, still more preferably 0.8 to 1.5, and particularly preferably 0.9 to 1.4. If the ratio of the elongation force in the warp direction at 80% elongation to the elongation force in the weft direction is less than 0.5 or exceeds 1.8, the product may be deformed when worn, the fit may be deteriorated, and a feeling of tightness during operation may be felt, which is not preferable. The "ratio of the elongation force in the warp direction to the elongation force in the weft direction at 80% elongation of the knitted fabric" defined in the present invention will be described below. A specimen having a width of 25mm was held at a holding interval of 100mm, and was drawn at a drawing speed of 300 mm/min until 80% of the holding interval (until the holding interval became 180 cm), and the maximum stress at that time was measured. When a sample in the warp direction and a sample in the weft direction of two elastic warp knitted fabrics are prepared and the average value of the respective maximum stresses is set as the elongation force, the following formula (1) can be used:
elongation ratio ═ (warp elongation force) ÷ (weft elongation force) (1)
To obtain the final product.
The elastic warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment is characterized in that 80% elongation is repeated three times, and the elongation recovery rate in the warp direction and the elongation recovery rate in the weft direction after recovery are both 85% or more. Preferably 88% or more, more preferably 90% or more. If the elongation recovery of 80% after recovery and the elongation recovery in the warp direction and the elongation recovery in the weft direction after recovery are less than 85% in three repetitions, the deformation may occur when worn as a product. Here, "80% elongation is repeated three times, and the elongation recovery rate in the warp direction and the elongation recovery rate in the weft direction after recovery" are described below. After the sample was stretched to 80% of the nip interval (to 180cm of nip interval) at the same width, nip interval, and stretching speed as those for the measurement of the elongation force, the sample was returned to the original 100mm of nip interval at the same speed as that for the stretching speed. The residual strain (mm) after the third elongation recovery was read from the elongation recovery curve obtained by repeating this procedure three times, and the following formula (2) was used:
elongation recovery (%) { [ (80mm- (residual strain)) ÷ 80mm ] × 100 (2)
To obtain the final product.
In the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the yarn length index of the non-elastic fiber per 1 square inch of the knitted fabric is preferably in the range of 5000 to 15000, more preferably 7000 to 14000, even more preferably 8000 to 13000, and particularly 9000 to 12000. If the yarn length index of the non-elastic fiber per 1 square inch of the knitted fabric is less than 5000, there are the following cases: before the elastic fiber is sufficiently stretched, the inelastic fiber is first tightened to inhibit the stretch of the elastic fiber, and the stretch of the elastic fiber is small as a knitted fabric, so that the garment is not easily movable when worn as a garment. If the yarn length index of the non-elastic fiber per 1 square inch of the knitted fabric exceeds 15000, the stretchability of the knitted fabric is sufficient, but the non-elastic fiber is present in the knitted fabric in an unnecessarily loose state, and the slack appears on the surface of the knitted fabric, and unevenness occurs on the surface of the knitted fabric, which may cause fuzzing and pilling, and deterioration of the fit (japanese: スナッグ), and therefore, this is not preferable. In the "yarn length index of the non-elastic fiber per 1 square inch of the knitted fabric" defined in the present invention, the length between marks was measured by marking the knitted fabric between 1 inch in the weft direction, taking out the non-elastic fiber from the knitted fabric, dropping a load of 0.44cN/detx, and setting the length between marks to the length of 1 inch of the knitted fabric. Next, the space between the marks was cut, and the weight of the inelastic fiber of the length of the mark was measured and converted into a weight per 10000m to obtain a fineness. Next, the number of weft stitches of the knitted fabric is measured by a densitometer or the like, and the following formula (3) is used:
the obtained value is the "yarn length index of the non-elastic fiber per 1 square inch of the knitted fabric".
Here, as the non-elastic fiber for measuring the yarn length, a non-elastic fiber forming the same knitted loop as the elastic fiber is used.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment has a ratio of the warp density to the weft density of preferably 1.5 to 2.5, more preferably 1.6 to 2.3, still more preferably 1.7 to 2.1, and particularly preferably 1.8 to 2.0. If the ratio of the warp density to the weft density is less than 1.5 or exceeds 2.5, the balance between the elongation in the warp direction and the elongation in the weft direction is deteriorated, and the garment is not easily movable when worn as a garment. In addition, as for the "ratio of warp density to weft density" defined in the present invention, as described below, the number of weft turns and the number of warp turns in a 25.4mm interval described in "density of knitwear" of JIS-L-1096 and 8.6.2 were measured for the warp density (number of weft turns) and the weft density (number of warp turns) of the elastic circular knitted fabric, and the following formula (4) was used:
density ratio (warp density: number of weft turns) ÷ (weft density: number of warp turns) (4)
The obtained value is the "ratio of warp density to weft density" described above.
The fineness of the elastic fiber used in the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment is preferably in the range of 15dtex to 80dtex, more preferably 20dtex to 60dtex, and further preferably 30dtex to 50 dtex. If the fineness of the elastic fiber is less than 15dtex, the desired elongation and recovery properties may not be obtained. When the weight of the garment exceeds 80dtex, the weight per unit area becomes large, and the garment becomes too heavy.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment preferably has a weight per unit area of 100g/m2~400g/m2More preferably 130, is more preferablyg/m2~350g/m2More preferably 150g/m2~300g/m2. If the weight per unit area is less than 100g/m2The transparency and the rupture strength are deteriorated. If the weight per unit area exceeds 400g/m2When worn, the wearer is too heavy to interfere with the operation.
The abrasion resistance of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment is preferably three or more stages, and more preferably four or more stages. If the abrasion resistance is less than three-level, fuzz often occurs on the surface of the knitted fabric when the knitted fabric is repeatedly worn, and the fuzz and pilling properties deteriorate and the knitted fabric is broken. The "wear resistance" defined in the present invention is a value evaluated by the C method described in JIS-L-1076 and 8.1.3.
The knitting structure used in the present embodiment is preferably a plain knitting, an inlay, a circular knitting, a circular rib, or the like, but is not limited to this, and any knitting structure may be used as long as the yarn arrangement is designed so that knitted loops containing elastic fibers are connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, even if the structure is a tuck, a honeycomb, a mesh, or the like.
The plain stitch contains an elastic fiber and a non-elastic fiber, and is preferably knitted in a yarn length ratio of 1.80 to 3.20, more preferably 1.90 to 3.10, and even more preferably 2.00 to 3.00. The stretch of the elastic fiber is preferably in the range of 2.5 to 3.5 times, more preferably 2.7 to 3.4 times, and still more preferably 2.8 to 3.3 times. The press-fitting setting amount in the pretreatment of the obtained raw fabric is preferably 0% to 100%, more preferably 15% to 80%, still more preferably 25% to 60%, and particularly preferably 35% to 50%. The pretreatment temperature is preferably 180 to 200 ℃, more preferably 185 to 195 ℃, and still more preferably 190 to 195 ℃. The stretch ratio in the pretreatment may be arbitrarily set, but is preferably-40% to + 40%, more preferably-35% to + 30%, and still more preferably-30% to + 20% of the width of the raw fabric.
In order to further add to the properties of the knitted fabric, a so-called triple layer plain knitted fabric comprising two non-elastic fibers and one elastic fiber may also be made. By forming the triple-layer plain knitted fabric, one kind of inelastic fiber can be used more than the ordinary plain knitted fabric, and therefore, the characteristics of the additional inelastic fiber can be imparted to the knitted fabric. In this case, the inelastic fiber may be any fiber having a desired property. For example, if it is desired to impart moisture absorption and release properties to the knitted fabric, cellulose fibers may be used. In the three-layer plain knitted fabric, the yarn lengths of the two types of non-elastic fibers may be substantially the same, but the respective yarn lengths may be changed depending on the shrinkage rate and the crimp property of the fibers used. Preferably, the yarn length at this time is within a range of ± 10% to give a difference. If the difference in yarn length outside this range is given, the yarn ends of one yarn end are left in large amounts, and unevenness occurs on the surface, which is not preferable. The stretch of the elastic fiber is preferably in the range of 2.5 to 3.5 times, more preferably 2.7 to 3.4 times, and still more preferably 2.8 to 3.3 times. The pretreatment temperature, the pressing amount, and the stretch ratio of the obtained raw fabric may be the same as those of the plain stitch. It is preferable to use cellulose fibers having moisture absorption and release properties for the non-elastic fibers to be used because these properties can be imparted to the knitted fabric.
In the inlay weave, the non-elastic fibers of the inlay weave on the back side of the knitted fabric are preferably woven within a range of a fly number of 1 to 3, and more preferably a fly number of 1 to 2. If the inlay knitted inelastic fiber on the back side of the knitted fabric is knitted without a fly, the feeling of unevenness on the back side of the knitted fabric peculiar to the inlay stitch cannot be obtained, and further, the elongation in the weft direction becomes extremely small. If the number of fly of the inelastic fibers to be inlaid and knitted on the back side of the knitted fabric is 4 or more, unevenness on the back side of the knitted fabric becomes large, and raising and pilling and deterioration of fit are caused, which is not preferable. In addition, since the inelastic fiber of the inlay knitting on the back side of the knitted fabric directly affects the elongation in the weft direction of the knitted fabric, the inelastic fiber having crimps is preferably used in order to improve the elongation in the weft direction. By using the non-elastic fiber having crimps, crimps are developed by heat at the time of dyeing processing, and stretchability is developed, whereby the extension in the weft direction of the knitted fabric itself is made good. In order to further improve the elongation in the weft direction, it is preferable that at least one of the inelastic fibers having crimps in the inlay knitting on the back side of the knitted fabric is required, or the inelastic fibers in the inlay knitting on the back side of the knitted fabric have a yarn length of 40% to 70%, more preferably 43% to 65%, further preferably 45% to 60%, and particularly preferably 48% to 55% of the yarn length of the inelastic fibers constituting the plain stitches on the front side of the knitted fabric. If the yarn length of the inelastic fiber used for the inlay knitting on the back side of the knitted fabric is less than 40% of the yarn length of the inelastic fiber constituting the flat stitch on the front side of the knitted fabric, the yarn length of the inelastic fiber used for the inlay knitting is short, and the weft direction stretch is reduced. If the yarn length of the inelastic fiber in the inlay knitting on the back side of the knitted fabric exceeds 70% of the yarn length of the inelastic fiber constituting the plain stitch on the front side of the knitted fabric, the weft direction elongation is good, but the inelastic fiber exists in the knitted fabric in an unnecessarily loose state, and the loose appears on the surface of the knitted fabric, and unevenness occurs on the surface of the knitted fabric, which is not preferable, leading to fuzzing, pilling, and deterioration of the fit.
Preferably, the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber having the same terry loop are knitted with a yarn length ratio of 1.80 to 3.20, more preferably 1.90 to 3.10, and still more preferably 2.00 to 3.00. The press-fitting setting amount in the pretreatment of the obtained raw fabric is preferably 0 to 100%, more preferably 15 to 80%, further preferably 25 to 60%, and particularly preferably 35 to 50%. The pretreatment temperature is preferably 180 to 200 ℃, more preferably 185 to 195 ℃, and still more preferably 190 to 195 ℃. The stretch ratio in the pretreatment may be arbitrarily set, but is preferably-40% to + 40%, more preferably-35% to + 30%, and still more preferably-30% to + 20% of the width of the raw fabric. It is preferable to use cellulose fibers having moisture absorption and release properties for the inelastic fibers to be inlaid and knitted, because such properties can be imparted to the knitted fabric.
In the circular interlock stitch structure, any yarn can be used, but a knitted fabric in which a knitted loop row containing elastic fibers and a knitted loop row containing no elastic fibers are alternately arranged in the warp direction of the knitted fabric by alternately arranging one elastic fiber may be used. In this case, it is necessary to set the yarn length of the non-elastic fiber forming the same loop knitted with the elastic fiber and the yarn length of the non-elastic fiber forming the loop knitted without the elastic fiber. The non-elastic fiber forming the same loop knitted fabric as the elastic fiber reduces the loop knitted fabric under the influence of the elastic fiber, but the size of the loop knitted fabric differs from the size of the loop knitted fabric formed of only the non-elastic fiber without the elastic fiber, and the loop knitted fabric formed of only the non-elastic fiber is exposed on the surface, thereby deteriorating the fit and the like. Therefore, it is preferable that the yarn length of the non-elastic fiber forming the terry knitted loop containing no elastic fiber is 5% to 20% shorter than the yarn length of the non-elastic fiber forming the same terry knitted loop as the elastic fiber. Preferably, the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber having the same terry loop are knitted in a yarn length ratio of 1.80 to 3.20, more preferably 1.90 to 3.10, and still more preferably 2.00 to 3.00. The press-fitting setting amount in the pretreatment of the obtained raw fabric is preferably 0 to 100%, more preferably 15 to 80%, further preferably 25 to 60%, and particularly preferably 35 to 50%. The pretreatment temperature is preferably 180 to 200 ℃, more preferably 185 to 195 ℃, and still more preferably 190 to 195 ℃. The stretch ratio in the pretreatment may be arbitrarily set, but is preferably-40% to + 40%, more preferably-35% to + 30%, and still more preferably-30% to + 20% of the width of the raw fabric.
In the tuck stitch, it is preferable that the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber having the same terry loop be knitted in a yarn length ratio of 1.80 to 3.20, more preferably 1.90 to 3.10, and still more preferably 2.00 to 3.00. The pressing amount in the pretreatment is preferably-40% to 50% in order to clarify the pattern of the tuck. More preferably from-30% to 45%, still more preferably from-20% to 40%. The pretreatment temperature is preferably 180 to 200 ℃, more preferably 185 to 195 ℃, and still more preferably 190 to 195 ℃. The stretch ratio in the pretreatment may be arbitrarily set, but is preferably-40% to + 40%, more preferably-35% to + 30%, and still more preferably-30% to + 20% of the width of the raw fabric. The yarn type may be selected arbitrarily, but it is preferable to use a cellulose fiber having moisture absorption and release properties because this property can be imparted to the knitted fabric.
In the honeycomb structure, the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber having the same knitted loop are preferably knitted in a yarn length ratio of 1.80 to 3.20, more preferably 1.90 to 3.10, and still more preferably 2.00 to 3.00. The press-fitting setting amount in the pretreatment of the obtained raw fabric is preferably 0 to 100%, more preferably 15 to 80%, further preferably 25 to 60%, and particularly preferably 35 to 50%. The pretreatment temperature is preferably 180 to 200 ℃, more preferably 185 to 195 ℃, and still more preferably 190 to 195 ℃. The stretch ratio in the pretreatment may be arbitrarily set, but is preferably-40% to + 40%, more preferably-35% to + 30%, and still more preferably-30% to + 20% of the width of the raw fabric. Further, it is preferable to use cellulose fibers having moisture absorption and release properties as part of the inelastic fibers because these properties can be imparted to the knitted fabric.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment preferably contains cellulose fibers. The cellulose fiber may be in the form of a filament yarn, such as a raw yarn (raw yarn), a false twist yarn, or a colored yarn, or may be a composite yarn of a polyester fiber or a polyamide fiber. The yarn may be spun yarn, or may be a blended yarn of polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, or the like. The cellulose fibres are preferably copper ammonia fibres. When the cellulose fiber used is a filament yarn, the fineness thereof is preferably 30dtex to 200dtex, more preferably 40dtex to 170dtex, and still more preferably 50dtex to 120 dtex. In the case of the spun yarn, the spun yarn preferably has 60 to 30 counts, and more preferably has 50 to 40 counts.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment is preferably knitted in a range in which the yarn length ratio of the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber forming the same knitted loop is 1.80 to 3.20, and the yarn length ratio is more preferably 1.90 to 3.10, and still more preferably 2.00 to 3.00. When the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber form the same knitted loop, the elongation easiness of the knitted fabric needs to be such that the yarn length of the inelastic fiber is longer than the yarn length of the elastic fiber. If the yarn length ratio of the elastic fiber to the inelastic fiber is less than 1.80, the inelastic fiber is first tightened before the elastic fiber is sufficiently stretched, and the elastic fiber is prevented from being stretched, so that the stretch of the knitted fabric is small, and the garment is not easily movable when worn as a garment. If the yarn length ratio of the elastic fibers to the inelastic fibers exceeds 3.20, the stretchability of the knitted fabric is sufficient, but the inelastic fibers are present in the knitted fabric in an unnecessarily loose state, and the slack appears on the surface of the knitted fabric, and unevenness occurs on the surface of the knitted fabric, which is undesirable because it causes fuzzing, pilling, and deterioration in fit. In the "yarn length ratio of elastic fibers to inelastic fibers" defined in the present invention, elastic fibers and inelastic fibers of 100 laps were taken out of a knitted fabric, and the lengths thereof were measured with a load of 0.01cN/dtex applied to the elastic fibers and a load of 0.44cN/detx applied to the inelastic fibers, and the following formula (5) was used:
yarn length ratio (yarn length of inelastic fiber) ÷ (yarn length of elastic fiber) (5)
The obtained value is the "yarn length ratio of elastic fibers to inelastic fibers" described above.
In order to prevent the garment from becoming too heavy when worn, the non-elastic fibers are preferably a filament yarn having a fineness of 30dtex to 200dtex, more preferably 40dtex to 170dtex, and still more preferably 50dtex to 120 dtex. When the inelastic fiber is a spun yarn, the number of the spun yarns is preferably 60 to 30, and more preferably 50 to 40.
In order to provide a garment having a soft touch feeling without impairing the stretchability of the elastic fiber, the non-elastic fiber preferably has a single fiber fineness of 0.3dtex to 3.0dtex, more preferably 0.5dtex to 25dtex, and further preferably 0.8dtex to 2.3 dtex.
The stretch ratio of the elastic fibers in the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment is preferably in the range of 2.5 times to 3.5 times, more preferably 2.8 times to 3.4 times, and still more preferably 3.0 times to 3.3 times.
The shape change and fit during actual wearing are greatly affected by the elongation recovery rate of the fabric used for the garment, but during actual movement, it is important that the fabric follows the movement, and therefore, the instantaneous recovery is particularly important. Then, the present inventors have intensively studied and made an index for evaluating the instantaneous recovery property.
Fig. 3 shows a schematic view of a testing machine used. Specifically, a sample collected at a 20cm square at the fixed sample grip 1a of the testing machine was fixed to the sample fixing frame 1b and set in the testing machine using a deinkeysia fatigue testing machine (DC-3 model) manufactured by honor science instruments (stock). Further, a push-up round bar 1d is provided to the movable sample grip 1c of the testing machine. The height of the push-up round bar 1d is adjusted so that the maximum push-up height thereof is 6cm upward from the sample fixing frame 1 b. The maximum push-up height of the push-up round bar was set so that the sample underwent about 50% elongation at the time of maximum push-up. A high-speed camera "sunpower GE 200" manufactured by Library corporation was set at a position horizontal to the sample fixing frame and at a position 20cm from the front surface of the sample fixing frame by using a tripod. The demercia fatigue tester was set to perform 500 push-up operations in one minute, and was operated to take the 500 th push-up operation under the condition of 200 frames in 1 second. Using the photographed moving image, the time when the tip of the round bar passes the lower end of the sample holder when the round bar descends after 500 times of push-up operation was set to 0, and the maximum sample slack from the sample holder within 0.05 seconds after the time 0 was measured using motion analysis software "Move-tr/2D" manufactured by Library corporation. The smaller the sample slack at this time, the more excellent the instantaneous recovery, and the better the following ability during exercise, and the maximum sample slack after 500 times of pushing up is preferably 3.0mm or less, more preferably 2.5mm or less, and further preferably 2.0mm or less. In order to improve the instantaneous recovery, the knitted fabric described in the present application is required.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be knitted by a flat knitting machine, a single-sided circular knitting machine, or a double-sided circular knitting machine, and is not particularly limited as long as the weight per unit area and the texture suitable for the purpose can be obtained.
The gauge (Japanese: ゲージ) of the knitting machine is also not particularly limited, but a knitting machine having a gauge of 18 to 40 is preferably selected arbitrarily according to the application and the thickness of the fiber to be used. More preferably, the knitting machine has a gauge of 22 to 32, and still more preferably a gauge of 24 to 28.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment is produced into a raw fabric, and then the raw fabric needs to be subjected to a dyeing process such as pretreatment, dyeing, and final setting. The processing method may be performed according to a normal processing method of an elastic fiber-mixed circular knitted fabric, but in order to achieve a desired balance between elongation characteristics and elongation, it is preferable to adjust the temperature, the stretch ratio, and the press-in ratio in the warp direction at the time of pretreatment. In the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment, in order to balance the elongation in the warp direction and the elongation in the weft direction, it is necessary to make the elongation in the warp direction of the circular knitted fabric good, and therefore, it is not sufficient to set the yarn length of the non-elastic fiber only when manufacturing the raw fabric, and it is also important to set the press-in the warp direction at the time of the pretreatment in the course of the dyeing process. The pressing-in is a process of feeding the knitted fabric to increase the warp density of the knitted fabric, and is also called a pressing-in. The pressing amount is preferably-20% to 100%, more preferably-10% to 80%, still more preferably-5% to 60%, and particularly preferably 0% to 50%. In summary, it is necessary to increase the elongation in the warp direction by increasing the warp density of the knitted fabric.
The pretreatment temperature is preferably 180 to 200 ℃, more preferably 185 to 195 ℃, and still more preferably 190 to 195 ℃. When the temperature is lower than 180 ℃, the effect cannot be sufficiently exerted, and the dimensional stability and density cannot be controlled. When the temperature exceeds 200 ℃, the strength of the polyurethane fiber is likely to be lowered and the elastic modulus is likely to be lowered, and a knitted fabric having poor elongation and recovery rate may be obtained.
The stretch ratio in the pretreatment may be arbitrarily set, but is preferably-40% to + 40%, more preferably-35% to + 30%, and still more preferably-30% to + 20% of the width of the raw fabric. When the width of the cloth is less than-40% of the width of the raw cloth, the cloth is too loose in the apparatus and comes into contact with the wall surface of the apparatus, thereby causing contamination and polishing. When the ratio exceeds + 40% with respect to the width of the raw fabric, the elongation in the weft direction becomes extremely small, and the balance between the elongation in the weft direction and the elongation in the warp direction becomes poor.
Further, depending on the final required characteristics, it is possible to appropriately impart an additional process such as a stain-proofing process, an antibacterial process, a deodorizing process, a sweat absorbing process, a moisture absorbing process, an ultraviolet absorbing process, and a weight reducing process as a dyeing step, and further to appropriately impart a post process such as a calendering process, an embossing process, a creasing process, a raising process, a fiber drawing transparent printing process (japanese: オパール process), and a softening process using a silicon-based softening agent.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be obtained by combining the setting of the use of the yarn, the knitting structure, the knitting conditions, and the like described above with the above-described pretreatment conditions.
The elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be applied to applications such as underwear, sportswear, and swimwear that are fitted to the body, for example, and by using the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment, it is possible to manufacture clothes that are: the wearing feeling is good, the excellent motion following performance can be realized, the improvement of the motion function is facilitated, the limitation of the application due to the extension force is avoided, the shape is not easy to generate due to wearing, the wearing feeling is comfortable, and the appearance is beautiful. In addition, when the long pants and the long-sleeved shirts are produced from the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment, and the knees are flexed and extended while wearing the long pants and the elbows are flexed and extended while wearing the long-sleeved shirts, the recovery time of the amount of deoxyhemoglobin in the rectus femoris tissue or the biceps brachii muscle tissue is faster than the recovery time when not worn in the flexion and extension operations under low load. The deoxyhemoglobin is hemoglobin that supplies oxygen from the lungs to muscle tissues to become hemoglobin without oxygen particularly in aerobic exercise, and the recovery effect is correspondingly higher as the time for recovering to the amount before exercise is faster after the amount of deoxyhemoglobin increases due to exercise. This effect is attributed to the stretch property and the instantaneous recovery property of the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present embodiment, and is considered to be caused by the promotion of venous return and the improvement of blood flow.
Examples
The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples.
In addition to the various measured values described above, evaluation in examples was performed in the following manner.
(walk-on property)
The tennis shirt attached to the body was sewn using the elastic warp knitted fabric produced in the example, and after two hours of tennis, the clothes were taken off, and the presence or absence of running (deformation) of the knitted fabric particularly at the elbow was visually judged by the following evaluation criteria, and the deformation of the shirt, in which the knitted fabric at the elbow was deformed, was eliminated after the shirt was taken off and then kneaded with the hand. The standard below is 3 or more in the case where there is no problem in practical use.
5: completely without walking
4: the elbow is slightly deformed but does not attract attention
3: elbow deformation, but elimination of deformation after kneading
2: the elbow has large deformation and can not be recovered if not kneaded to a large degree
1: the elbow deformation is very large, and even if the elbow is rubbed to a large extent, the elbow cannot be recovered
Example 1
Using a double-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 28, 33dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 56dtex72f and 84dtex72f polyester fiber filament were used for the non-elastic fiber, and a knitted structure of fig. 4 was used to produce a gray fabric so that the yarn length of the non-elastic fiber was 260mm/100W for 56dtex72f, 310mm/100W for 84dtex72f, 150mm/100W for the elastic fiber, and 2.07 for the yarn length ratio. The elastic fiber-containing knitted loops of the fabric are connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and the connected rows of the elastic fiber-containing knitted loops are arranged in the weft direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio that one row of the two rows of the knitted loops contains the elastic fiber. After passing the fabric through a hot water layer of 80 ℃, the fabric was processed under the conditions of a widening ratio of-30% with respect to the width of the fabric at 195℃ × 60 seconds, a pressing ratio in the warp direction of + 38% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric, and then dyeing and finishing were performed under the conditions of a normal elastic circular knitted fabric, thereby obtaining a fabric. That is, dyeing was carried out at 130 ℃ and finishing was carried out at 140 ℃ to obtain a weight per unit area of 190g/m2The number of weft turns was 72, the number of warp turns was 40, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.80, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 100 degrees in the case of 56dtex72f and 112 degrees in the case of 84dtex72f, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 8024. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 261cN in the warp direction and 273cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation force in the warp direction and the weft direction was 0.95, the elongation recovery rate was 90% in the warp direction and 90% in the weft direction, and the instant recovery was performedThe sample relaxation in the evaluation of the properties was 1.7mm, and the wear resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric having a balanced warp and weft elongation and excellent elongation recovery, having good motion following properties, having no tight feeling when worn, and having a small wearing course.
Example 2
A single-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 24 was used, 44dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 43 counts polyester spun yarn was used for the inelastic fiber, and a knitted structure of fig. 5 was used to produce a gray fabric so that the yarn length of the inelastic fiber was 300mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 100mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 3.00. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and are arranged so that all the rows in the weft direction of the knitted fabric are the rows of the connected knitted loops containing elastic fibers. After passing the fabric through a layer of hot water of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to 0% with respect to the width of the fabric and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to 0% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric under the conditions of 195℃ × 60 seconds, thereby obtaining a fabric. The weight per unit area of the obtained cloth was 257g/m2The number of weft turns was 82, the number of warp turns was 46, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.78, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 90 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 12586. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 666cN in the warp direction, 467cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 1.43, the elongation recovery rate was 91% in the warp direction and 90% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 1.5mm, and the abrasion resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric having a balanced warp and weft elongation and excellent elongation recovery, having good motion following properties, having no tight feeling when worn, and having a small wearing course.
Example 3
A single-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 28 was used, 22dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 40 counts of polyester spun yarn were used for the inelastic fiber, and a knitted structure of fig. 5 was used to produce a gray fabric so that the yarn length of the inelastic fiber was 290mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 96mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 3.02. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and are arranged so that all the rows in the weft direction of the knitted fabric are the rows of the connected knitted loops containing elastic fibers. After passing the fabric through a layer of hot water of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to + 3% with respect to the width of the fabric at 195℃ × 60 seconds and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to 0% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric, thereby obtaining a fabric. The weight per unit area of the obtained cloth was 165g/m2The number of weft turns was 60, the number of warp turns was 41, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.46, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 52 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 7221. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 518cN in the warp direction, 290cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 1.79, the elongation recovery was 87% in the warp direction and 86% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 2.4mm, and the wear resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric which is slightly excellent in warp and weft elongation balance and elongation recovery, slightly excellent in sports following property, and less in wearing course with a slight sense of tightness when worn.
Example 4
Using a single-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 24, 44dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 43 counts of polyester spun yarn were used for the non-elastic fiber, and the knitting structure of FIG. 5 was followed so that the fiber was not elasticThe greige cloth was prepared so that the yarn length of the sexual fiber was 250mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 84mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 2.98. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and are arranged so that all the rows in the weft direction of the knitted fabric are the rows of the connected knitted loops containing elastic fibers. After passing the fabric through a layer of hot water of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to + 30% with respect to the width of the fabric at 195℃ × 60 seconds and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to-15% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric, thereby obtaining a fabric. The weight per unit area of the obtained cloth was 127g/m2The number of weft turns was 51, the number of warp turns was 35, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.46, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 53 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 4931. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 766cN in the warp direction, 607cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 1.26, the elongation recovery was 85% in the warp direction and 86% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 0.9mm, and the abrasion resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric which is slightly excellent in warp and weft elongation balance and elongation recovery, has good motion following properties, has a little tense feeling when worn, and has a small wearing course.
Example 5
A single-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 24 was used, 44dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polyether polyol of tetrahydrofuran and 3-alkyltetrahydrofuran was used for the elastic fiber, 43 counts of polyester spun yarn were used for the inelastic fiber, and a fabric was produced in accordance with the knitting structure of FIG. 5 so that the yarn length of the inelastic fiber was 300mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 100mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 3.00. The knitted loops containing elastic fiber of the fabric are connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and are arranged in the weft direction of the knitted fabric so that all the rows are connectedA row of knitted terry loops of elastic fibers. After passing the fabric through a hot water layer of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to + 7% with respect to the width of the fabric and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to + 4% with respect to the weft density of the fabric under the conditions of 185 ℃ x 60 seconds, thereby obtaining a fabric. The weight per unit area of the obtained cloth was 185g/m2The number of weft turns was 85, the number of warp turns was 48, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.77, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 92 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 13613. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 576cN in the warp direction, 389cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 1.48, the elongation recovery was 89% in the warp direction and 91% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 2.7mm, and the abrasion resistance was grade 2.5. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric which is slightly excellent in warp and weft elongation balance and elongation recovery, slightly excellent in sports following property, and has a slight sense of tightness when worn, but has a small wearing course.
Example 6
A single-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 24 was used, a polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex containing a prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, a polyester staple yarn 43 count and a copper ammonia fiber 84dtex54f were used for the inelastic fiber, and a knitted structure of FIG. 5 was used to produce a gray fabric so that the yarn length of the inelastic fiber was 340mm/100W when the inelastic fiber was a polyester staple yarn and 320mm/100W when the inelastic fiber was a copper ammonia fiber, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 108mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 2.96. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and are arranged so that all the rows in the weft direction of the knitted fabric are the rows of the connected knitted loops containing elastic fibers. After passing the fabric through a layer of 80 deg.C hot water, the width of the fabric was set to-4% under 198 deg.C x 60 seconds, and the fabric was pressed in the warp directionThe ratio was set to + 40% of the weft density of the raw fabric, and the fabric was obtained by performing pretreatment, dyeing and finishing in the same manner as in example 1. The weight per unit area of the obtained cloth was 272g/m2The number of weft turns was 65, the number of warp turns was 36, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.81, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 118 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 8954. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 621cN in the warp direction, 384cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 1.62, the elongation recovery was 90% in the warp direction and 90% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 1.9mm, and the abrasion resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric having a balanced warp and weft elongation and excellent elongation recovery, good motion following properties, less tightness when worn, and a small wearing course.
Example 7
Using a single-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 24, 44dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 43 count polyester staple fiber yarn and 84dtex36f polyester fiber yarn were used for the inelastic fiber, and a fabric was produced according to the knitting structure of fig. 6 so that the yarn length of the inelastic fiber was 312mm/100W when the inelastic fiber was polyester staple fiber yarn and 140mm/100W when the inelastic fiber was polyester fiber filament yarn, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 106mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 2.94. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and are arranged so that all the rows in the weft direction of the knitted fabric are the rows of the connected knitted loops containing elastic fibers. After passing the fabric through a hot water layer of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to-10% with respect to the width of the fabric under the conditions of 198℃ × 60 seconds and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to + 25% with respect to the weft density of the fabric, thereby obtaining a fabric. The cloth obtained has a weight per unit area of 255g +m2The number of weft turns was 69, the number of warp turns was 42, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.64, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 81 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 8979. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 390cN in the warp direction, 422cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 0.92, the elongation recovery rate was 92% in the warp direction and 90% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 1.4mm, and the wear resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric having excellent warp and weft elongation balance and elongation recovery, good motion following properties, less tightness in wearing, and less deformation in wearing.
Example 8
Using a double-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 28, 33dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 56dtex24f polyester fiber filament and 110dtex36f polyester fiber filament were used for the non-elastic fiber, and a gray fabric was produced according to the knitting structure of fig. 7 so that the yarn length of both non-elastic fiber 56dtex24f and 110dtex36f was 256mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 112mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 2.29. The elastic fiber-containing knitted loops of the fabric are continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and the connected rows of the elastic fiber-containing knitted loops are arranged in the weft direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio that one row of the two rows of the knitted loops contains the elastic fiber. After passing the fabric through a hot water layer of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to + 10% with respect to the width of the fabric under the conditions of 198℃ × 60 seconds and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to + 40% with respect to the weft density of the fabric, thereby obtaining a fabric. The weight per unit area of the obtained cloth was 195g/m2The number of weft turns was 57, the number of warp turns was 35, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.63, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 79 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 5615. Obtained byThe elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 856cN in the warp direction, 509cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 1.68, the elongation recovery rate was 90% in the warp direction and 91% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 2.0mm, and the abrasion resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric having a balanced warp and weft elongation and excellent elongation recovery, good motion following properties, less tightness when worn, and a small wearing course.
Example 9
Using a single-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 28, 22dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, and 84dtex72f polyester fiber and 84dtex54f copper ammonia fiber were used for the inelastic fiber, and a fabric was produced according to the knitting structure of fig. 8 so that the yarn lengths of both the inelastic fiber and the copper ammonia fiber were 200mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 67mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 2.99. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and are arranged so that all the rows in the weft direction of the knitted fabric are the rows of the connected knitted loops containing elastic fibers. After passing the fabric through a layer of hot water of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to + 3% with respect to the width of the fabric and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to + 20% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric under the conditions of 195℃ × 60 seconds, thereby obtaining a fabric. The weight per unit area of the obtained cloth was 160g/m2The number of weft turns was 133, the number of warp turns was 60, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 2.22, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 126 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 13652. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 655cN in the warp direction, 423cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 1.55, the elongation recovery rate was 91% in the warp direction and 90% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 1.9mm, and the abrasion resistance was fourAnd (4) stages. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric having a balanced warp and weft elongation and excellent elongation recovery, good motion following properties, less tightness when worn, and a small wearing course.
Example 10
Using a double-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 28, 22dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 44dtex24f nylon filament was used for the inelastic fiber, and a knitted structure of fig. 9 was used to produce a gray fabric so that the yarn length of the inelastic fiber was 280mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fiber knitted by doubling the inelastic fiber was 90mm/100W, the yarn length ratio was 3.11, and the yarn length of the elastic fiber bonded to the front and back surfaces was 87 mm/100W. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and are arranged so that all the rows in the weft direction of the knitted fabric are the rows of the connected knitted loops containing elastic fibers. After passing the fabric through a layer of hot water of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to 0% with respect to the width of the fabric and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to 0% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric under the conditions of 195℃ × 60 seconds, thereby obtaining a fabric. The weight per unit area of the obtained cloth was 225g/m2The number of weft turns was 102, the number of warp turns was 57, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.79, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 72 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 7240. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 235cN in the warp direction, 270cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 0.87, the elongation recovery rate was 93% in the warp direction and 95% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 0.5mm, and the abrasion resistance was five-grade. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric having a balanced warp and weft elongation and excellent elongation recovery, good motion following properties, less tightness when worn, and a small wearing course.
Comparative example 1
Using a double-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 28, 33dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 56dtex72f polyester fiber and 84dtex72f polyester fiber were used for the non-elastic fiber, and a gray fabric was produced according to the knitting structure of fig. 10 so that the yarn length of the non-elastic fiber was 260mm/100W when the non-elastic fiber was 56dtex72f and the yarn length of the non-elastic fiber was 310mm/100W when the non-elastic fiber was 84dtex72f, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 179mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 1.73. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are not continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, but the row of the knitted loops containing elastic fibers arranged in the warp direction of the knitted fabric is arranged in the weft direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio that one row of the knitted loops containing elastic fibers is included in two rows of the knitted loops. After passing the fabric through a layer of hot water of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to 0% with respect to the width of the fabric and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to 0% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric under the conditions of 195℃ × 60 seconds, thereby obtaining a fabric. With the obtained fabric, a knitted fabric can be obtained that: the weight per unit area was 172g/m2The number of weft turns was 54, the number of warp turns was 37, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.46, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 41 degrees in the case of 56dtex72f and 43 degrees in the case of 84dtex72f, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 4418. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 392cN in the warp direction, 183cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 2.14, the elongation recovery was 84% in the warp direction and 86% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 5.8mm, and the abrasion resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric which has poor warp and weft elongation balance and elongation recovery, poor sports following performance, and large wearing walk shape and feels tight when worn.
Comparative example 2
Using a double-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 22, 44dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 40 counts of polyester spun yarn were used for the non-elastic fiber, and a knitted structure of fig. 11 was produced such that one of the yarn lengths of the non-elastic fiber was 315mm/100W, the other was 260mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 100mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 2.60. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are not continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, but are arranged such that all the rows in the weft direction of the knitted fabric are the rows of the knitted loops containing elastic fibers arranged in the warp direction of the knitted fabric. After passing the fabric through a layer of hot water of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to + 10% with respect to the width of the fabric at 195℃ × 60 seconds and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to 0% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric, thereby obtaining a fabric. With the obtained fabric, a knitted fabric can be obtained that: the weight per unit area is 284g/m2The number of weft turns was 50, the number of warp turns was 35, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.43, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 42 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 3928. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 457cN in the warp direction, 257cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 1.78, the elongation recovery was 82% in the warp direction and 86% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 4.2mm, and the abrasion resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric which has poor warp and weft elongation balance and elongation recovery, poor sports following performance, and large wearing walk shape and feels tight when worn.
Comparative example 3
Using a double-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 22, 44dtex polyurethane elastic fiber containing prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol was used for the elastic fiber, 40 counts of polyester spun yarn were used for the non-elastic fiber, and the knitting structure of FIG. 11 was followed so that one of the yarn lengths of the non-elastic fiber was 315mm/100WThe other was 260mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fiber was 100mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 2.60. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are not continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, but are arranged such that all the rows in the weft direction of the knitted fabric are the rows of the knitted loops containing elastic fibers arranged in the warp direction of the knitted fabric. After passing the fabric through a layer of hot water of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to + 10% with respect to the width of the fabric at 195℃ × 60 seconds and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to-10% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric. With the obtained fabric, a knitted fabric can be obtained that: the weight per unit area is 262g/m2The number of weft turns was 45, the number of warp turns was 35, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.29, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 38 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 3655. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 501cN in the warp direction, 239cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 2.10, the elongation recovery was 84% in the warp direction and 86% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 3.8mm, and the abrasion resistance was four-stage. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric which has poor warp and weft elongation balance and elongation recovery, poor sports following performance, and large wearing walk shape and feels tight when worn.
Comparative example 4
A single-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 28 was used to produce a gray fabric using 33dtex polyurethane elastic fibers containing a prepolymer using a polyether polyol of tetrahydrofuran and 3-alkyltetrahydrofuran and a polyester filament 84detx72f for inelastic fibers, and a knit structure shown in FIG. 5 so that the yarn length of the inelastic fibers was 324mm/100W, the yarn length of the elastic fibers was 120mm/100W, and the yarn length ratio was 2.70. The knitted loops containing elastic fibers of the fabric are continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and are arranged so that all the rows are in the weft direction of the knitted fabricA row of connected knitted loops comprising elastic fibers. After passing the fabric through a layer of hot water of 80 ℃, the fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in example 1 by performing pretreatment with the stretch ratio set to + 10% with respect to the width of the fabric at 185℃ × 60 seconds and the press-in ratio in the warp direction set to-10% with respect to the density of the weft of the fabric, thereby obtaining a fabric. With the obtained fabric, a knitted fabric can be obtained that: the weight per unit area is 212g/m2The number of weft turns was 56, the number of warp turns was 40, the ratio of the number of weft turns to the number of warp turns was 1.40, the opening angle of the knitted loop of the inelastic fiber was 43 degrees, and the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber was 4211. The elongation force of the obtained knitted fabric was 276cN in the warp direction, 200cN in the weft direction, the ratio of the elongation forces in the warp direction and the weft direction was 1.38, the elongation recovery was 91% in the warp direction and 90% in the weft direction, the sample relaxation in the instantaneous recovery evaluation was 1.1mm, and the abrasion resistance was grade 2.5. The obtained circular knitted fabric is a knitted fabric having a balanced warp and weft elongation and excellent elongation recovery, good motion following properties, less tightness when worn, and a slightly reduced wearing course.
TABLE 1
Industrial applicability
By using the elastic circular knitted fabric of the present invention, for example, clothes suitable for underwear, sportswear, swimwear, sportswear, and the like, which are excellent in stretchability, recovery, sportswear, and wearing sensation, can be manufactured.
Description of the reference numerals
A. Non-elastic fibers; B. non-elastic fibers forming the same loop as the elastic fibers; C. an elastic fiber; 1a to 1c, 3a to 3c, 5a to 5c, knitted loops comprising elastic fibers and inelastic fibers; 2a to 2c, 4a to 4c, knitted loops composed of only inelastic fibers; D. a center line of the fiber bundle above and to the left of the knitted loop constituting the inelastic fiber; E. a center line of the fiber bundle on the upper right of the knitted loop constituting the inelastic fiber; F. an opening angle; 6a, a sample holding part; 6b, a sample fixing frame; 6c, a movable sample holding part; and 6d, pushing up the round bar.
Claims (10)
1. An elastic circular knitted fabric in which elastic fibers and inelastic fibers form the same knitted loop, characterized in that,
the knitted loops containing the elastic fiber are continuously connected in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, the row of the knitted loops is arranged in the weft direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio of at least one row of the knitted loops containing the elastic fiber among two rows of the knitted loops, the opening angle of the fiber bundle constituting the knitted loops of the inelastic fiber is 50 to 150 degrees, the yarn length index of the inelastic fiber per 1 square inch of the knitted fabric is 5000 to 15000, the elongation force in the warp direction and the elongation force in the weft direction at 80% elongation of the elastic circular knitted fabric are both 100cN to 800cN, the ratio of the elongation force in the warp direction to the elongation force in the weft direction is 0.5 to 1.8, and the elongation recovery rate in the warp direction and the elongation recovery rate in the weft direction after the recovery are both 85% or more after the 80% elongation is repeated three times.
2. The elastic circular knitted fabric according to claim 1,
the ratio of the warp density to the weft density is 1.5 to 2.0.
3. The elastic circular knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2,
the fineness of the elastic fiber is 15dtex to 80 dtex.
4. The elastic circular knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2,
the weight per unit area is 100g/m2~400g/m2。
5. The elastic circular knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2,
the abrasion resistance is three or more stages.
6. The elastic circular knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2,
the knitted fabric is a plain knit and the inelastic fiber is at least two.
7. The elastic circular knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2,
the knitted fabric is an inlay weave, the number of fly of non-elastic fibers in the inlay weave on the back side of the knitted fabric is 1 to 3, and at least one of the non-elastic fibers has crimp.
8. The elastic circular knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2,
the knitted fabric is a tuck stitch.
9. The elastic circular knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2,
the knitted fabric is a honeycomb structure.
10. The elastic circular knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2,
the elastic circular knit fabric comprises cellulose fibers.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2013-146868 | 2013-07-12 | ||
| JP2013146868 | 2013-07-12 | ||
| PCT/JP2014/068441 WO2015005432A1 (en) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-10 | Elastic circular knitted fabric |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| HK1221491A1 HK1221491A1 (en) | 2017-06-02 |
| HK1221491B true HK1221491B (en) | 2019-01-11 |
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