HK1114008A - Solid skin care composition comprising multiple layers - Google Patents

Description

Solid skin care compositions comprising multiple layers

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a solid skin care composition comprising multiple layers. In particular, the present invention relates to solid skin care compositions comprising multiple layers, wherein each layer is made from a different composition that can provide unique property benefits. If the multiple layers are mixed together and provided as a single composition, the performance benefit will not be to the extent provided in the separate phases. The compositions of the present invention are particularly useful in cosmetic foundation products.

Background

Foundation compositions can be applied to the face and other parts of the body to even out skin tone and texture and to hide pores, imperfections, fine lines, etc. Foundation compositions are also used to moisturize the skin, balance the oil content of the skin, and provide protection from the adverse effects of sun, wind, and other environmental factors.

Foundation compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, pressed powders or anhydrous oil and wax compositions. Emulsion-type foundations in liquid form are suitable because they can provide a moisturizing effect by incorporating water and a water-soluble skin treatment agent. However, these foundations in liquid form are inconvenient for consumers to use and carry. On the other hand, solid foundations packaged in compacts are suitable for consumer use, however, solid foundations are typically not as effective as foundations in liquid form in moisturizing and covering the skin.

Foundation compositions have been proposed which are in solid form but still in emulsion. The above-mentioned solid emulsion foundation is intended to overcome the disadvantages possessed by the conventional liquid form foundations and solid foundations. These foundations can be filled in a wide variety of packages including compacts and are becoming increasingly popular among consumers. References disclosing the above foundation composition include Japanese patent publication Nos. A-2-88511, A-3-261707, A-7-267819, A-11-209243, U.S. Pat. No. 5,362,482 and PCT publication No. WO 01/91704.

Recently, consumers have begun to seek various properties and benefits in foundation products (e.g., glow appearance, natural appearance, spreadability, skin fit, skin miscibility, coverage, wear resistance, durability, shine control, uv protection) as well as the specific treatments provided by skin actives. Furthermore, different consumers may seek different types of performance, such as a moisturized feel against a bright light feel and a natural appearance against a matte finish. To achieve these benefits, foundation formulations must be able to contain a variety of components, and the components that rely on their physical and chemical properties can be difficult to formulate into a single product. For example, oil control shine is a highly desirable function for foundation products. However, incorporation of high levels of oil absorbing powder will give the formulation a very heavy application feel and poor spreadability. High levels of incorporation may also destabilize the formulation.

Cosmetic compositions comprising multiple layers or phases, on the other hand, are known in the prior art. These products are usually provided as cream, gel or paste type phases and are usually focused on the difference in color of each layer. For example, U.S.4,980,155 to Revlon, inc. discloses a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising a color phase composition and a gel phase composition. WO2004/105708 to Gamma Croma s.p.a. discloses a multi-colored cosmetic product having solid firmness, the product comprising two or more different colored cosmetic products. Japanese patent application publication 1999-269025 to Noevir Co., Ltd discloses a two-layer stick cosmetic comprising an oil-based stick composition and a water-based stick composition. Japanese patent application publication 2002-97112 discloses solid cosmetic compositions having mutually different colors and preparation methods. None of them discloses a multi-layer skin care composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion at ambient temperature.

Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a solid skin care composition that provides more than one benefit, which is provided by components that are difficult to formulate into a single composition. In particular, for cosmetic foundation products, there is a need for a solid composition that provides good spreadability, gloss control, and wear resistance benefits in one product.

None of the prior art provides all of the advantages and benefits of the present invention.

Summary of The Invention

The present invention relates to a solid skin care composition comprising: a) a first layer which is solid at 45 ℃ and which is selected from the group consisting of a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion and an oil dispersion; and b) a second laminate powder layer; wherein at least one of the first and second layers comprises a benefit agent, and wherein the first and second layers are provided in the same package in a manner such that the first and second layers can be applied simultaneously.

The overall composition provides the beneficial properties of each layer by providing multiple layers of the composition in a manner such that they can be applied simultaneously. Otherwise the benefits would be compromised or other properties would be compromised if they were incorporated into one composition.

The present invention is suitable for any solid form of skin care composition, for example, cosmetic foundations, blushes, sunscreens, eye shadows, and the like. A particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention is a cosmetic foundation made up of visually distinct layers.

These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present disclosure and the appended claims.

Detailed Description

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.

All percentages, parts and ratios used herein are by weight of each layer composition of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.

All ingredients useful in the present invention, such as actives and other ingredients, may be classified or described according to their cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefits or their postulated mode of action. It will be understood, however, that in some instances, the active and other ingredients useful in the present invention may provide more than one cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit, or may function in more than one mode of action. Thus, classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the ingredient to the particular application or applications listed.

First and second layers

The composition of the present invention comprises a plurality of layers, i.e. at least one powder-pressing layer and one layer selected from the group consisting of water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions and oil dispersions. For convenience of description, a layer selected from a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, and an oil dispersion is named as a first layer, and a dust layer is named as a second layer. By providing multiple layers of the composition in a manner such that they can be applied simultaneously, the overall composition provides the beneficial properties of each layer that would otherwise be compromised or other properties would be compromised if they were incorporated into one composition. When any number of layers are included in the total composition, the discussion herein focuses on a total composition having two layers.

The first and second layers are different compositions and are designed to provide different benefits. The benefit is based on at least one benefit agent included in each layer. The first and second layers may comprise different benefit agents, different combinations of benefit agents, or different concentrations of the same benefit agent. In the present invention, a "benefit agent" is a component that provides specific skin care benefit properties in the use of skin care products. Skin care benefit agents herein may include benefits relating to the appearance of skin or color cosmetics. Typically, a benefit agent contained in one layer is incompatible with a component contained in another layer, or when the first and second layers are combined in one composition, the benefit agent in one layer can destroy the properties of the overall composition.

For example, oil control and good spreadability are two advantageous properties for cosmetic foundation compositions, however they are difficult to achieve in one product. Gloss control can be provided by a composition comprising a high level of powder (e.g., by a second layer of pressed powder). On the other hand, good spreadability can be provided by the oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion or oil dispersion type composition of the first layer. By combining the first and second layers in a manner such that they can be applied simultaneously, two properties that would otherwise be difficult to achieve can be provided in one product.

In another embodiment, it is preferred to incorporate a skin care agent in the cosmetic foundation composition. However, it is difficult to incorporate a meaningful amount of skin care agent into the pressed powder. By incorporating a skin care agent in the first layer and combining with the second layer, a product containing a sufficient amount of skin care agent while having advantageous dusting properties can be obtained in one product.

The first and second layers of the present invention are solid at room temperature and therefore do not dissolve or mix with each other or only slightly dissolve or mix only slightly during storage and after use. The first and second layers are provided in a manner such that the user can apply both layers to the skin simultaneously. One suitable method is to provide both layers in the same primary package (e.g., a tray, can, or stick applicator). The primary package may be provided with a suitable applicator, such as a sponge or brush. Preferably, the first and second layers are formulated such that they exhibit similar rheological properties when subjected to pressure/heat from a finger or applicator during use.

The first and second layers may be provided in any ratio as necessary to achieve the targeted benefits. Preferably, the first and second layers are provided in a weight ratio of about 1: 99 to about 99: 1, more preferably about 1: 9 to about 9: 1. The first and second layers are preferably visually distinct such that different benefits/characteristics of the layers are delivered to the user. A colorant may suitably be included in at least one of the first or second layers to make the layers visually distinct.

Phase types and formulations of first and second layers

In the present invention, the first layer composition has a phase type selected from the group consisting of a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, and an oil dispersion, and the second layer composition has a powder phase type. Water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, and oil dispersions can be used to provide a good coating feel to the skin, while also including oil-soluble or water-soluble skin care agents that will also leave a fresh feel after the water and/or volatile oil evaporates. The pressed powders can be used to incorporate high levels of powders that can provide, for example, oil control benefits and soft focus benefits. In a highly preferred embodiment, the present composition is a cosmetic foundation.

The dust composition of the present invention preferably comprises the following components:

(a) from about 60% to about 98%, more preferably from about 75% to about 95%, of a pigment powder; and

(b) from about 2% to about 40%, more preferably from about 5% to about 25% of a non-volatile oil;

(c) optionally a volatile silicone, when present, in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%.

(c) Optionally a lipophilic surfactant, when present, in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.3% to 5%.

When the first layer is a water-in-oil emulsion, the first layer composition preferably comprises the following components:

(a) from about 10% to about 50%, more preferably from about 15% to about 35%, of a volatile silicone oil;

(b) from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of a solid wax;

(c) from about 5% to about 45%, more preferably from about 15% to about 30%, of a pigment powder;

(d) from about 0.5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% to about 15%, of a non-volatile oil;

(e) from about 0.5% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1% to about 4%, of a lipophilic surfactant; and

(f) an amount of water, preferably from about 10% to about 35% water, such that the total content of volatile silicone oil and water exceeds about 40%.

When the first layer is an oil-in-water emulsion, the first layer composition preferably comprises the following components:

(a) from about 20% to about 60%, more preferably from about 30% to about 50% water;

(b) from about 0.1% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 2%, of a hydrophilic surfactant;

(c) from about 5% to about 40%, more preferably from about 10% to about 30%, of a pigment powder;

(d) from about 1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, of a non-volatile oil;

(e) from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, of a fatty compound or fatty acid salt; and

(f) from about 1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 5% to about 20% of a volatile silicone oil.

When the first layer is an oil dispersion, the first layer composition preferably comprises the following components:

(a) from about 10% to about 80%, more preferably from about 20% to about 70%, of a volatile silicone oil;

(b) from about 1% to about 40%, more preferably from about 5% to about 25% of a non-volatile oil;

(c) from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 7%, of a solid wax; and

(d) optional pigment powder, when present, is present in an amount of from about 1% to about 70%, more preferably from about 5% to about 50%.

At least one of the first layer and the second layer further comprises at least one benefit agent selected from the group consisting of: luminescent powders, soft focus silicone elastomers, film forming polymers, oil absorbing powders, sebum solidifying powders, skin active agents, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, when incorporated, the first layer comprises one or more benefit agents selected from the group consisting of: luminescent powders, soft-focus powders, oil-absorbing powders, sebum-solidifying powders, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, when incorporated, the second layer comprises one or more benefit agents selected from the group consisting of: soft-focus silicone elastomers, film-forming polymers, skin active agents, and mixtures thereof. The water-in-oil, oil-in-water, and oil dispersion compositions are formulated to have a viscosity of from about 100 to about 10,000mPas, preferably from about 300 to about 3,000mPas, when a temperature of between about 55 ℃ and about 90 ℃ is reached.

Benefit agent

The compositions of the present invention comprise benefit agents that provide specific skin benefit properties in the use of skin care products. Skin care benefit agents herein may include benefits relating to the appearance of skin or color cosmetics.

In one embodiment of the cosmetic composition, including but not limited to cosmetic foundation, blush, sunscreen, eye shadow, the benefit agent is selected from the group consisting of: a luminescent powder, an oil absorbing powder, a film forming polymer, a soft focus powder, a soft focus silicone elastomer, a sebum solidifying powder, a skin active agent, and mixtures thereof.

Luminescent powder

Luminescent powders are a pigment that is particularly effective in providing a glow-like appearance to the skin by having a gloss greater than 7.0. Gloss is a parameter that can be measured by known methods using hiding power paper (available from THE LENETA COMPANY), Drawdown bar (0.003 μm and 0.006 μm), solvent (KP-545 available from Shin-Etsu Chemical co., Ltd.), gloss check IG-320 (available from HORIBA).

Luminescent powders useful in the present invention include pearlescent pigments, mica, synthetic mica, boron nitride, and specified particulate talc having an average particle size of about 20 μm and a gloss of about 7.2(0.003 μm on a white background), about 33.0(0.006 μm on a white background), about 8.5(0.003 μm on a black background) and about 10.3(0.006 μm on a black background). Commercially available TALC in the specified particulate form is available from Miyoshi Kasei Inc. under the trade name SI-TALC CT-20. The specified particulate talc has higher gloss and lower transparency than ordinary particulate talc. Specifically, the gloss of the particulate talc is specified to be about 130% to 200% of the ordinary particulate talc, and the transparency of the particulate talc is specified to be about 10% to 100% of the ordinary particulate talc. Transparency can be measured by known methods using hiding power paper (available from THE LENETA COMPANY), drawdownwmba (0.003 μm and 0.006 μm), solvent (KP-545 available from Shin-Etsu chemical co., Ltd.), Spectraflash (available from Datacolor).

In a single layer formulation, the luminescent powder may typically be present in an amount up to 5% for a glow appearance, since other powders, such as coated titanium dioxide, included in the formulation may cover the effect of the luminescent powder. The titanium dioxide overlays, as used herein, are those having a particle size of from about 200nm to about 500 nm. If the particle size is not within this range, the titanium dioxide may not provide sufficient coverage as a cosmetic material. In the present invention, the luminescent powder is formulated mainly in one layer and the covering titanium dioxide is formulated in the other layer, and both layers are provided in such a manner that they can be applied to the skin at the same time. The skin care products of the present invention provide a satisfactory glow appearance while having a low level of luminescent powder. Thus, greater flexibility in product formulation is provided. Compared to the single layer product, a multi-layer product comprising a low content of luminescent powder is obtained, which has a better spreadability and a soothing feel on the skin. In a preferred embodiment, the luminescent powder is present in a layer in an amount from about 5% to about 25%, more preferably from about 10% to about 20%, by weight of the composition of the layer. The preferred content of the luminescent powder is from about 0.5% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1% to about 3%, when calculated based on the total weight of the first and second layers.

Soft-focus agent (1) Soft-focus powder

Soft focus powders are particularly effective pigments in providing a soft focus effect to the composition. That is, the powder has a natural finish and good coverage when incorporated in a specified amount to minimize the symptoms of skin disease. In particular, the soft focus powders described herein must meet two parameter criteria to provide the above described effects. First, both the total light transmittance (Tt) and the diffuse light transmittance (Td) of the pigment are relatively high. The soft focus powder has a total light transmission (Tt) of about 40 to about 94 and a diffuse light transmission (Td) of about 28 to about 38. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that by having the high values of Tt and Td described above, the soft focus powder exhibits high transparency, thereby providing an overall natural finish. Second, the soft focus powder has a higher haze { (Td/Tt) x100} of about 32 to about 95. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that by having the high turbidity described above, the contrast between the bright areas of the skin and the dark areas of the skin (e.g., pores and wrinkles) is minimized to reduce the appearance of the diseased areas.

Total Transmittance (Tt), diffuse Transmittance (Td), and haze { (Td/Tt). times.100 } can be measured and calculated by the skilled person by reference to ASTM D1003-00 "Standard Test Method for Hazeand luminescence Transmission of Transmission Plastics". Although the pigments herein are not plastics, the same principles of this particular standard test can be used.

Soft coke powders useful in the present invention include Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), silica, mixed pigments such as alumina treated mica, titanium dioxide treated talc, titanium dioxide treated mica, vinyl dimethicone/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer, alumina, barium sulfate, and synthetic mica. Commercially available soft focus powders useful herein include alumina treated Mica under the trade name SA Excel Mica JP2, available from Miyoshi Kasei, having a total light transmission (Tt) of about 87, a diffuse light transmission (Td) of about 28, and a haze { (Td/Tt) × 100} of about 32.

Similar to the luminescent powder, when formulated in a single layer with the covering titanium dioxide, the content of soft focus agent will be as high as 5% to obtain a significant natural appearance effect. However, in the present invention, by formulating mainly soft-focus powder in one layer and covering titanium dioxide in the other layer, and providing both layers in such a manner that they can be applied to the skin at the same time. The skin care products of the present invention provide a satisfactory natural appearance while having a low level of soft focus powder. Thus, the cost of the product can be controlled while also providing greater flexibility in product formulation. In a preferred embodiment, the soft focus powder is present in a layer in an amount of from about 2% to about 25%, more preferably from about 5% to about 20%, based on the composition of the layer. The preferred content of soft focus powder is from about 0.5% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1% to about 3%, when based on the total weight of the first and second layers.

Softening agent (2) Silicone elastomer

Soft focus silicone elastomers are crosslinked silicone elastomers that are effective in providing a soft focus effect to the skin. In other words, when a specified amount of silicone elastomer is incorporated into a cosmetic product, the silicone elastomer can provide a natural finish and have good coverage to minimize the appearance of skin symptoms. In particular, silicone elastomers have a lower degree of crunchiness than other silicone oils. The degree of darkness is a parameter reflecting the effect of soft focus (i.e. the natural finish of the cosmetic substance). The lower the sheen, the better the natural gloss the material can provide. The silicone elastomer used herein has a sheen of less than about 40. The black gloss can be measured by a PG-1M gloss meter (incident angle/reflection angle: 60/60 ℃ C.) prepared by Nihon Denshoku Kogyo. Commercially available silicone elastomers useful herein include the silicone elastomer available from Shinetsu under the trade designation KSG-16, which has an UK of about 37.

Silicone elastomers suitable for use herein may be emulsified or unemulsified crosslinked silicone elastomers or mixtures thereof. The term "non-emulsifying" as used herein is used to define a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer free of polyoxyalkylene units. The term "emulsifying" as used herein refers to a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer having at least one polyoxyalkylene (e.g., polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) unit. The non-emulsifying elastomers useful in the present invention are prepared by crosslinking organohydrogenpolysiloxanes with alpha, omega-dienes. The emulsified elastomer in the present invention includes a polyoxyalkylene-modified elastomer obtained by crosslinking a polyoxyalkylene with an organohydrogenpolysiloxane or an organohydrogenpolysiloxane containing at least one polyether group crosslinked with an α, ω -diene. The emulsified crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer can be selected in particular from the crosslinked polymers described in U.S. Pat. nos. 5,412,004, 5,837,793 and 5,811,487. In addition, an emulsified elastomer composed of a dimethicone copolyol crosspolymer (and dimethicone) is available from Shin Etsu under the tradename KSG-21.

The non-emulsifying elastomer is a dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. The above-described dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers are available from a number of suppliers including Dow Corning (DC 9040 and DC 9041), general electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16, 18[ dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer ]), and Grant Industries (GRANSILTM series elastomers). Crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present invention and methods for their preparation are also described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,970,252, 5,760,116, and 5,654,362. Additional crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present invention are disclosed in Japanese patent application JP 61-18708, assigned to PolaKasei Kogyo KK. Commercially available elastomers preferred for use herein are Dow Corning's 9040 silicone elastomer blend, Shin Etsu's KSG-21, and mixtures thereof.

Similar to the luminescent powder, when formulated in a single layer with the covering titanium dioxide powder, the silicone elastomer content will be as high as 10% to achieve a significant natural appearance effect. However, in the present invention, by formulating the silicone elastomer mainly in one layer and the covering titanium dioxide in the other layer, and providing the two layers in such a manner that they can be applied to the skin at the same time. The skin care products of the present invention provide a satisfactory natural appearance while having a relatively low level of silicone elastomer. Thus, the cost of the product can be controlled while also providing greater flexibility in the product formulation. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer is present in a layer in an amount of from about 1% to about 35%, preferably from about 2% to about 25%. The preferred level of silicone elastomer is from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 7%, when based on the total weight of the first and second layers.

Oil-absorbing powder

Oil-absorbing powders are a particularly effective pigment in absorbing oil and therefore may be included in the present compositions for absorbing excess sebum from the skin. Specifically, the oil absorbing powders herein have an oil absorption capacity of at least about 100mL/100g, preferably at least about 200mL/100 g. The oil absorption properties are units well known to the skilled person and can be determined by: measured in JIS K5101, volume 21, "Test method for Oil absorbance Level".

The oil-absorbing powder useful in the present invention includes spherical silica and a methyl methacrylate copolymer. Commercially available oil absorbing pigments useful in the present invention include spherical silicas available from Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. under the tradename SI-SILDEX H-52, which have oil absorption properties greater than 200mL/100 g; vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer available from ShinEtsu Chemical under the tradenames KSP-100 and KSP-101, which has an oil absorption property of greater than 200mL/100 g; hardened polyorganosiloxane elastomers available from Dow Corning under the trade designation TREFIL E-506C having an oil absorption of greater than 100mL/100 g; and a surface treated methyl methacrylate copolymer available from GANZ Chemical under the trade name SA-GMP-0820 and having an oil absorption of greater than 100mL/100g, by Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. Typically, the inclusion of an oil absorbing powder for oil control may provide a composition with unfavorable spreading properties. However, in the present invention, such unfavorable spreading properties can be improved by mainly including the oil-absorbing powder in a certain layer. In a preferred embodiment, a layer of the present invention comprises from about 1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10% of an oil absorbing powder.

Film-forming polymers

Film-forming polymers are useful for imparting abrasion resistance and/or transfer resistance to cosmetics. Preferred polymers form a non-tacky film that can be washed off with water and a detergent such as soap.

Examples of suitable film-forming polymeric materials include:

a) sulfur polyester resins, for example, AQ sulfur polyester resins such as AQ29D, AQ35S, AQ38D, AQ38S, AQ48S, and AQ55S (available from Eastman Chemicals);

b) polyvinyl acetate/polyvinyl alcohol polymers such as Vinex resins available from Air Products, including Vinex 2034, Vinex 2144, and Vinex 2019;

c) acrylic resins including water dispersible acrylic resins available from National Starch under the trade designation "Dermacryl" (including Dermacryl lt);

d) polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) including Luviskol K17, K30 and K90 (available from BASF); water soluble copolymers of PVP including PVP/VA S-630 and W-735; and PVP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers such as copolymer 845 and copolymer 937, available from ISP; and other PVP polymers, disclosed by e.s. barabas in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and engineering" second edition, volume 17, pages 198 to 257;

e) high molecular weight polysiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane and organo-substituted polydimethylsiloxane, especially those having a viscosity greater than about 50,000 mPas;

f) high molecular weight hydrocarbon polymers having a viscosity greater than about 50,000 mPas;

g) organosiloxanes including organosiloxane resins, fluid diorganopolysiloxane polymers, and silicone ester waxes.

Examples of these polymers and cosmetic compositions containing them are found in PCT publication WO96/33689 published 10/31 1996; WO97/17058 published 1997, 5/15; and U.S. Pat. No. 5,505,937 to Castrogiovanni et al, 1996, 4,9, all of which are incorporated herein by reference. Additional film-forming polymers suitable for use herein include water-insoluble polymeric materials and water-soluble film-forming polymers in aqueous emulsions, which are described in PCT publication WO98/18431, 5/7/1998, which is incorporated herein by reference. Examples of high molecular weight hydrocarbon polymers having a viscosity of no greater than about 50,000mPas include polybutenes, polybutylene terephthalate, polydecenes, polycyclopentadienes, and similar straight and branched chain high molecular weight hydrocarbons.

Preferred film-forming polymers include organosiloxane resins containing R₃SiO_1/2"M" unit, R₂SiO "D" unit, RSiO_3/2"T" Unit, SiO₂Combinations of "Q" units, the units being in a proportion to each other to satisfy R_nSiO_(4-n)/2Wherein n has a value between 1.0 and 1.50 and R is methyl. Note that: for processing reasons, small amounts up to 5% of silanol or alkoxy functionality may also be present in the resin structure. The organosiloxane resin must be solid at about 25 ℃ and have a molecular weight of about 1,000 to about 10,000 grams/mole. The resin is soluble in organic solvents such as toluene, xylene, isoparaffins, and cyclosiloxanes or volatile carriers, indicating that the resin is not sufficiently crosslinked to render the resin insoluble in the volatile carrier. Particularly preferred resins include repeating monofunctional groups or R₃SiO_1/2An "M" unit and a tetrafunctional or SiO₂"Q" units, otherwise known as "MQ" resins, as in 1994Krzysik, published on 19.7.7, is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,330,747, which is incorporated herein by reference. In the present invention, the ratio of "M" to "Q" functional units is preferably about 0.7 and n has a value of 1.2. Organosiloxane resins such as those commercially available as Wacker 803 and 804 from Wacker Silicones Corporation of Adrian Mich gan, KP545 from Shin-Etsu chemical, and G.E.1170-002 from General Electric Company. In the present invention, by having the film-forming polymer predominantly in a certain layer, the film-forming polymer is present in a higher concentration in a localized area than the other materials of the composition, and thus forms a film of higher film strength when applied to the skin. These concentrated areas of high film strength provide improved adhesion of the overall composition to the skin. That is, by providing the film-forming polymer mainly in a certain layer, the amount of the film-forming polymer contained in the entire composition can be reduced. Or if the same amount of film-forming polymer is formulated in the second layer, an overall composition with improved adhesion can be obtained. In a preferred embodiment, a layer of the present invention comprises from about 0.5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% to about 8%, of a film-forming polymer.

Sebum solidifying powder

Sebum solidifying powders useful herein include those comprising a substrate coated with a low crystalline zinc oxide, an amorphous zinc oxide or mixtures thereof, wherein the zinc oxide is from about 15% to about 25% by weight of the sebum solidifying powder. The base material may be any organic or inorganic material useful for cosmetic purposes. Such materials include those listed below under "pigment powder component". The sebum solidifying powder herein may suitably be prepared according to the method disclosed in US 2002/0031534 a1 (incorporated herein by reference). The sebum solidifying powder may be surface treated. The sebum solidifying powder usable in the present invention has the ability to solidify sebum, i.e., is effective in absorbing free fatty acids, diglycerides and triglycerides, and can be solidified by forming a zinc salt thereof so that a film is formed in about 30 minutes. In addition, the original glossy sebum changes in appearance to a matte film. This ability is different from other oil-absorbing powders, which are not selective for the type of oil to be adsorbed and do not form a film upon oil absorption, thus leaving a glossy gel and paste upon oil absorption. The change in appearance provides the consumer with a noticeable signal that sebum has been controlled. The sebum-solidifying effect can conveniently be measured by the following method: a quantity of the powder is mixed with a quantity of artificial sebum, mixed for a period of time, and left so until it cures or shows a matt appearance. The time taken for the mixture to cure or change appearance was recorded. The shorter the time taken to cure or change appearance, the better the curing of the powder.

Commercially available sebum solidifying powders useful in the present invention include mica with a tradename of PLV-20 coated with hydroxyapatite, 20% zinc oxide and the same powder with a tradename of SI-PLV-20 surface treated with polymethylsiloxane, both available from Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. Typically, inclusion of sebum solidifying powders for gloss control may provide compositions with unfavorable spreading properties. However, in the present invention, such unfavorable spreading properties can be improved by mainly including the sebum solidifying powder in a certain layer. In a preferred embodiment, the amount of sebum solidifying powder in a layer is from about 1% to about 35%, preferably from about 1% to about 25%.

Skin active agent

Skin active agents refer to active ingredients that provide a cosmetic and/or therapeutic effect to the area of skin to which they are applied. The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of a skin active agent. Skin actives useful in the present invention include skin lightening agents, anti-acne agents, emollients, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, local anesthetics, artificial tanning agents, preservatives, antimicrobial and antifungal actives, skin soothing agents, sunscreens, skin barrier repair agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-skin atrophy actives, lipids, sebum inhibitors, skin sensates, protease inhibitors, skin firming agents, anti-itch agents, hair growth inhibitors, desquamation enzyme enhancers, anti-glycation agents, and mixtures thereof. If included, a layer of the compositions of the present invention comprises from about 0.001% to about 30%, preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%, of at least one skin active agent.

The type and amount of skin active agent is selected so that the particular agent included does not affect the stability of the composition. For example, the lipophilic agent can be incorporated in an amount soluble in the aqueous phase at the same time as the lipophilic agent is incorporated in an amount soluble in the oil phase.

Skin lightening agents useful herein refer to active ingredients that improve hyperpigmentation compared to pre-treatment. Skin lightening agents useful herein include ascorbic acid compounds, vitamin B₃Compound, azelaic acid, butyl hydroxy anisole, gallic acid and its derivatives, glycyrrhizic acid, hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, mulberry extract, and mixtures thereof. It is believed that the use of skin lightening agent compositions is advantageous because they can provide skin lightening benefits through different mechanisms.

The ascorbic acid compounds useful in the present invention include ascorbic acid, salts of ascorbic acid, which are L-forms per se, and derivatives thereof. Salts of ascorbic acid useful in the present invention include sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium and protamine salts. Ascorbic acid derivatives useful in the present invention include, for example, esters of ascorbic acid and ester salts of ascorbic acid. Particularly preferred ascorbic acid compounds include 2-o-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (which is an ester of ascorbic acid and glucose and is commonly referred to as L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside, or ascorbyl glucoside) and metal salts thereof, and L-ascorbic acid phosphate salts such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, potassium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and calcium ascorbyl phosphate. Commercially available ascorbic acid compounds include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate from Showa Denko, 2-o-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid from Hayashibara, and sodium L-ascorbyl phosphate from Roche under the trade name STAY C.

Vitamin B useful in the present invention₃Compounds include, for example, those having the formula:

wherein R is-CONH₂(e.g. nicotinamide) or-CH₂OH (e.g., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts thereof. The above vitamin B₃Exemplary derivatives of the compounds include nicotinates (including non-vasodilating nicotinates), nicotinyl amino acids, panthenol, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide, and nicotinamide N-oxide. Preferred vitamin B₃The compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate, and more preferably niacinamide. In a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B₃The compounds comprise a limited amount of salt form and more preferably are substantially free of vitamin B₃A salt of the compound. Preferably, the vitamin B₃The compounds comprise less than about 50% of such salts, and more preferably are substantially free of salt forms. Commercially available vitamin B highly useful in the present invention₃The compounds include nicotinamide USP available from Reilly.

Other skin active agents that may be used in the present invention include N-acetyl glutathione (e.g., N-acetyl glutathione available from Technical Sourcing International).

Other hydrophobic skin lightening agents useful herein include ascorbic acid derivatives, for example, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (e.g., VC-IP from Nikko Chemical), ascorbyl palmitate (e.g., Roche Vitamins), ascorbyl dipalmitate (e.g., NIKKOL CP from Nikko Chemical), undecylenoylphenylalanine (e.g., SEPIWHITE MSH from Seppic), octadecenedioic acid (e.g., ARLATONE DIOIC DCA from Uniquema), evening primrose seed extract and apple fruit extract, smatvetror UV and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate from colorica as hyaluronan filled spheres, and mixtures thereof.

Other skin active agents useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of: N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (e.g., N-acetyl-D-glucosamine available from Technical sourcing international), panthenol (e.g., DL-panthenol available from alps pharmaceutical Inc), tocopherol nicotinate, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, flavonoids (e.g., flavanone, chalcone), farnesol, phytantriol, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters (e.g., retinyl propionate), phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, tocopherol (e.g., D-delta-tocopherol available from Eisai), and esters thereof (e.g., tocopherol acetate: DL- α -tocopheryl acetate, available from Eisai), azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, ketoprofen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4, 4 ' -trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3, 4, 4 ' -trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, ketoconazole, neomycin sulfate, theophylline, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the first layer of the present invention comprises from about 0.001% to about 30%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 10% of a skin active agent.

Volatile silicone oil

The water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water emulsion or oil dispersion composition of the present invention comprises a volatile silicone oil, and the dust composition of the present invention comprises a volatile silicone oil as an optional component. In one cosmetic foundation embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion composition comprises from about 10% to about 50%, preferably from about 15% to about 35%, of a volatile silicone oil. Oil-in-water emulsion compositions comprise from about 1% to about 30%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, of a volatile silicone oil. The oil dispersion composition comprises from about 10% to about 80%, preferably from about 20% to about 70%, of a volatile silicone oil. When present, the dust composition comprises from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of a volatile silicone oil.

Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the type and amount of volatile silicone oil herein can provide improved freshness and soothing to the skin without leaving a dry feel to the skin.

The volatile silicone oils useful in the present invention are selected from those having a boiling point of from about 60 ℃ to about 260 ℃, preferably those having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms. Volatile silicone oils useful in the present invention include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes having the following structure (I):

wherein R is⁹³Independently an alkyl or aryl group, and p is an integer from about 0 to about 5. Z⁸Represents a blocking group at the end of the siloxane chain. Preferably, R⁹³Including methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl, Z⁸Including hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy. More preferably, R⁹³And Z⁸Is methyl. Preferred volatile siloxane compounds are hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Commercially available volatile silicone compounds useful in the present invention include octamethyltrisiloxane under the trade name SH200C-1cs, decamethyltetrasiloxane under the trade name SH200C-1.5cs, and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane under the trade name SH200C-2cs, available from Dow Corning.

Volatile silicone oils useful in the present invention also include cyclic siloxane compounds having the following chemical formula:

wherein R is⁹³Independently an alkyl or aryl group, and n is an integer from 3 to 7.

Preferably, R⁹³Including methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. More preferably, R⁹³Is methyl. Preferred volatile siloxane compounds are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, tetradecylcyclohexasiloxane. Commercially available volatile siloxane compounds useful in the present invention include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, under the trade name SH244, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, under the trade names DC245 and SH245, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, under the trade name DC 246; available from Dow Corning corporation.

Non-volatile oil

The water-in-oil, oil-in-water and oil dispersion compositions of the present invention comprise a non-volatile oil. In one cosmetic foundation embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion composition comprises from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, non-volatile oil, the oil-in-water emulsion composition comprises from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 15%, non-volatile oil, and the oil dispersion composition comprises from about 1% to about 40%, preferably from about 5% to about 25%, non-volatile oil. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the type and amount of non-volatile oils herein can provide improved smoothness to the skin and can also reduce the dry feel of the skin.

The dust compositions of the present invention comprise a non-volatile oil as binder oil. In one cosmetic foundation embodiment, the powder composition comprises from about 2% to about 40%, preferably from about 5% to about 25%, of a non-volatile oil. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the type and amount of non-volatile oils herein can provide improved smoothness to the skin and can also reduce the dry feel of the skin.

Non-volatile oils useful in the present invention are, for example, tridecyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, isocetyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, cetyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, isodecyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate. Octyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), diisopropyl dimerate, tocopherol acetate, avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, pasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, coconut oil, bran oil, china paulownia oil, japanese paulownia oil, jojoba oil, rice germ oil, glyceryl trioctoate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, isopropyl myristate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, Pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, lanolin, liquid paraffin, isotridecane, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof. Commercially available oils include, for example, isotridecyl isononanoate, available from Croda under the trade name Crodamol TN; hexalan, available from Nisshin Seiyu; and tocopheryl acetate, available from Eisai.

Non-volatile oils useful in the present invention also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes having the following structure (I):

wherein R is⁹³Is alkyl or aryl and p is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000. Z⁸Represents a blocking group at the end of the siloxane chain. Substituted in the siloxane chain (R)⁹³) Or in the siloxane chain Z⁸The terminal alkyl group or aryl group may have any structure as long as the resulting siloxane satisfies the following conditions: is fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, and can be applied to skinIs non-irritating, non-toxic or otherwise harmful, is compatible with the other components of the composition, and is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions. Suitable Z⁸Including hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy. Two R on a silicon atom⁹³The groups may represent the same or different groups. Preferably these two R⁹³The groups represent the same groups. Suitable R⁹³Including methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. Preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane (also known as dimethicone) is particularly preferred. The polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These siloxane compounds may be, for example, Viscasil^®And the SF 96 series is available from General Electric Company and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series (e.g., SH 200).

Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids may also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxane. These silicones are available, for example, as SF 1075 methylphenyl fluid from General electric company or as 556 cosmetic grade liquid from Dow Corning or KF-56 from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

The non-volatile oils which may also be used in the present invention are various grades of mineral oil. Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbons include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutylene, and mixtures thereof.

Solid wax

The water-in-oil emulsions and oil dispersion compositions of the present invention comprise a solid wax. In one cosmetic foundation embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion composition comprises from about 1% to about 10%, preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of a solid wax; and the oil dispersion composition comprises from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 7% of the solid wax. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the type and amount of solid wax herein provides consistency to the composition and coverage and fresh and soothing skin feel to the skin without adversely affecting spreadability when applied to the skin.

Solid waxes useful in the present invention are paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, ceresin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, eicosanyl behenate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, mixtures of waxes are used.

Commercially available solid waxes useful in the present invention include: candelilla wax NC-1630 from Cerica Noda, ozokerite SP-1021 from Strahl & Pitsh, and eicosyl behenate from Caschemical.

Lipophilic surfactant

The water-in-oil emulsion composition of the present invention contains a lipophilic surfactant, and the oil dispersion composition and the dust composition may contain a lipophilic surfactant as an optional component. In one cosmetic foundation embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion composition comprises from about 0.5% to about 5%, preferably from about 1% to about 4%, of a lipophilic surfactant. When present, the dust composition comprises from about 0.1% to about 7%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 5%, of a lipophilic surfactant. The lipophilic surfactants herein have an HLB value of less than about 8.

The HLB value is a theoretical index value that describes the hydrophilic-hydrophobic balance of a particular compound. Generally, the HLB index is known to range from 0 (very hydrophobic) to 40 (very hydrophilic). The HLB value of lipophilic surfactants can be found in a chart known in the art or can be calculated using the following general formula: HLB ═ 7+ (hydrophobic group value) + (hydrophilic group value). The HLB and methods used to calculate the HLB of a compound are detailed in "surfactant science Series" volume 1, m.j. schick: "nonionics Surfactants", pages 606 to 613, Schick (Marcel Dekker inc., new york, 1966).

Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the type and amount of lipophilic surfactant herein may be selected in accordance with the other components of the present invention to provide a stable water-in-oil emulsion.

The lipophilic surfactant may be an ester surfactant. Ester-type surfactants useful in the present invention include: sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl sesquiisostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl sesquioleate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl dioleate, diglyceryl monoisostearyl ether, diglyceryl diisostearyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available ester surfactants are, for example, sorbitan isostearate, available from Croda under the trade name Crill 6, and sorbitan sesquioleate, available from Kao Atras under the trade name Arlacel 83.

The lipophilic surfactant may be a silicone type surfactant. The silicone-type surfactant useful in the present invention is shown below as (i), (ii) and (iii), and mixtures thereof.

(i) A dimethicone copolyol having the formula:

wherein x is an integer of 5 to 100, y is an integer of 1 to 50, a is a number of zero or more, b is a number of zero or more, and the average of the sum of a + b is 1 to 100.

(ii) A dimethicone copolyol having the formula:

wherein R is selected from the group consisting of: hydrogen, methyl, and their group

And m is an integer of 5 to 100, x is independently zero or a larger number, y is independently zero or a larger number, and the sum of x + y is 1 to 100.

(iii) Branched polyether-polydiorganosiloxane emulsifiers herein having the formula:

wherein R is¹Is an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 20 carbon atoms; r²Is composed of

Wherein g is from about 1 to about 5, and h is from about 5 to about 20; r³Is H or alkyl having from about 1 to about 5 carbon atoms; e is from about 5 to about 20; f is from about 0 to about 10; a is from about 20 to about 100; b is from about 1 to about 15; c is from about 1 to about 15; and d is from about 1 to about 5.

Commercially available silicone-type surfactants are, for example, dimethicone copolyols DC5225C, BY22-012, BY22-008, SH3746M, SH3771M, SH3772M, SH3773M, SH3775M, SH3748, SH3749, and DC5200, all available from Dow Corning, and branched polyether-polydiorganosiloxane emulsifiers such as PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone having an HLB of about 4 and a molecular weight of about 6,000 available from ShinEtsu Chemical under the trade designation KF-6028.

In a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic surfactant is a mixture of at least one ester surfactant and at least one silicone surfactant to provide a stable emulsion to the other essential components of the present invention.

Water (W)

The water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsion compositions of the present invention comprise an effective amount of water to provide a discontinuous or continuous aqueous phase. In one cosmetic foundation embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion composition comprises an amount of water, preferably from about 10% to about 35% water, such that the total amount of volatile silicone oil and water is greater than about 40%; and the oil-in-water emulsion composition comprises from about 20% to about 60%, preferably from about 30% to about 50% water. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the water content herein can provide improved freshness and soothing to the skin without leaving a dry feeling to the skin. In addition, the water content allows for the inclusion of optional water-soluble skin active agents as described below.

In the present invention, typically deionized water is used. Water from natural sources containing mineral cations may also be used depending on the desired properties of the product.

Fatty compounds and fatty acid salts

The oil-in-water emulsion composition of the present invention comprises a fatty compound or a fatty acid salt. In one cosmetic foundation embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion composition comprises from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, of a fatty compound or fatty acid salt.

Fatty compounds and fatty acid salts useful in the present invention include stearic acid (e.g., 750 stearic acid from Kao), stearic acid sodium salt, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, or polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol (having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units), and mixtures thereof. Preferred fatty compounds are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2), the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

Hydrophilic surfactant

The oil-in-water emulsion composition of the present invention comprises a hydrophilic surfactant. In one cosmetic foundation embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion composition comprises from about 0.1% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 2%, of a hydrophilic surfactant.

A variety of hydrophilic surfactants can be used herein. Known or conventional hydrophilic surfactants can be used in the composition, provided that the hydrophilic surfactant selected is chemically and physically compatible with the essential components of the composition and provides the desired dispersion characteristics.

Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic surfactants useful herein are various nonionic and anionic hydrophilic surfactants such as sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1-C30 fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1-C30 fatty acids, C1-C30 polyol esters, C1-C30 polyol ethers, alkyl phosphate esters, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphate esters, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyglycerol alkyl esters having C10-20 alkyl substituents, polyoxyethylene sterols and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated sterols, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of other hydrophilic surfactants useful herein include: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-20, ceteth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, cetyl polyoxyethylene ether-10, polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, sodium polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether stearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, cetyl polyoxyethylene ether-10, cetyl phosphate diethanolamine, sodium lauryl sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, sodium lauryl sulfate, glyceryl monostearate, and sodium lauryl sulfate, Glyceryl stearate, PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, and mixtures thereof.

Polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated castor oils which can be used in the present invention include, for example, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oils having 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, such as polyoxyethylene (20) hydrogenated castor oils, polyethylene (40) hydrogenated castor oils and polyoxyethylene (100) hydrogenated castor oils.

Polyglycerol alkyl esters having C10-20 alkyl substituents useful in the present invention include, for example, those containing from 6 to 10 moles of glycerol units, for example, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate and polyglyceryl-10 stearate.

Polysorbate esters useful in the present invention include, for example, those containing 20 to 80 moles of ethylene oxide, such as polysorbate-20, polysorbate-40, polysorbate-60 and polysorbate-80.

Polyvinyl sterols and polyvinyl hydrosterol useful in the present invention include, for example, those having 10 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, for example, polyethylene (10) phytosterol, polyethylene (30) phytosterol and polyethylene (20) cholesterol.

Among the above nonionic surfactants, preferred is polysorbate, and more preferred are polysorbate-20, polysorbate-40, and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available hydrophilic surfactants are glyceryl stearate available from Uniqema: arlacel 161.

Pigment powder component

The dust compositions, water-in-oil emulsion compositions and oil-in-water emulsion compositions of the present invention comprise a pigment powder component. In one cosmetic foundation embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion composition comprises from about 5% to about 45%, more preferably from about 15% to about 30%, of the powder component. The oil-in-water emulsion composition comprises from about 5% to about 40%, more preferably from about 15% to about 30% of the pigment powder component. The dust composition comprises from about 60% to about 98%, more preferably from about 75% to about 95% of the powder component. The oil dispersion composition optionally comprises a pigment powder, and when present, the pigment powder is present in the oil dispersion in an amount of from about 1% to about 70%, more preferably from about 5% to about 50%. The pigment powders used herein are typically inherently hydrophobic or hydrophobically treated when used in water-in-oil emulsions and oil dispersions, and inherently hydrophilic or non-hydrophobically treated when used in oil-in-water emulsions. Both hydrophobic and hydrophilic pigment powder components can be used in the dust.

By keeping the level of the pigment component low, the overall composition retains flexibility to accommodate other components that can provide spreadability, a moisturizing effect, and a fresh and soothing feel.

The type and amount of pigment is selected to provide, for example, hiding, coverage, good abrasion resistance, and stability in the composition.

Pigments that can be used in the pigment component herein are inorganic powders and organic powders such as talc, mica, sericite, silica, magnesium silicate, synthetic fluorophlogopite, calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, bentonite and montmorillonite; pearlescent pigments such as alumina, barium sulfate, calcium hydrogen phosphate, calcium carbonate, titanium oxide, finely divided titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, hydroxyapatite, iron oxide, iron titanate, ultramarine blue, prussian blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt oxide, cobalt titanate, iron oxide-coated mica; organic POWDERs such as polyester, polyethylene, polystyrene, methyl methacrylate resin, cellulose, 12-NYLON (e.g., NYLON POWDER SP-500 available from TORAY), 6-NYLON, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer, polypropylene, vinyl chloride polymer, tetrafluoroethylene polymer, boron nitride, ichthyo-guanine, tar lake dye and natural lake dye. These pigments may be treated with hydrophobic treatment agents including: siloxanes such as polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, and perfluoroalkylsiloxane; fatty substances such as stearic acid and disodium hydrogen glutamate; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate; aluminum hydrogenated tallow glutamate, hydrogenated lecithin, lauroyl lysine, aluminum salts of perfluoroalkyl phosphates, and aluminum hydroxide for reducing the activity of titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available hydrophobic pigment powder components include coated titanium dioxide, such as commercially available titanium dioxide and talc and polymethylsiloxane: SI-T-CR-50Z, titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane: SI-Titanium Dioxide IS, Titanium Dioxide and polydimethylsiloxane: SA-titanium dioxide CR-50, titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane: SI-FTL-300, and titanium dioxide and polydimethylsiloxane and disodium hydrogenglutamate: SA/NAI-TR-10, both purchased from Miyoshi Kasei; iron oxide and cyclopentasiloxane and disodium hydrogenglutamate: SA/NAI-Y-10/D5 (70%)/SA/NAI-R-10/D5 (65%)/SA/NAI-B-10/D5 (75%) from Miyoshi Kasei; iron oxide and disodium hydrogenglutamate: SA/NAI-Y-10/SA/NAI-R-10/SA/NAI-B-10, purchased from Miyoshi Kasei; iron oxide and polymethylsiloxane: SIMapico Yellow Light Lemon XLO/SI Pure Red Iron Oxide R-1599/SI Pure Red Iron Oxide R-3098/SI Pure Red Iron Oxide R-4098/SI Black Iron Oxide 247 from Daito Kasei; alumina and titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane: SI-LTSG30AFLAKE H (5%) LHC, available from Miyoshi Kasei; talc and polymethylsiloxane: SI-Talc CT-20 from Miyoshi Kasei; talc and polymethylsiloxane: SI-Talc JA13R LHC, available from Miyoshi Kasei; mica and polymethylsiloxane: SI Mica, available from Miyoshi Kasei; silica and polydimethylsiloxane: SA-SB-300, available from Miyoshi Kasei; mica and polymethylsiloxane: SI Sericite, available from Miyoshi Kasei; mica and polydimethylsiloxane: SA Sericite, available from Miyoshi Kasei; mica and C9-15 fluoroalkyl phosphate and triethoxy octanoyl silane: FOTS-52 Sericite FSE, available from Daito Kasei; talc and C9-15 fluoroalkyl phosphate and triethoxy octanoyl silane: FOTS-52 Talc JA-13R, available from Daito Kasei; boron nitride and polymethylsiloxane: SI02 Boron Nitride SHP-6, available from DaitoKasei; boron nitride and C9-15 fluoroalkyl phosphate and triethoxy octanoyl silane: FOTS-52Boron Nitride, available from Daito Kasei; mica and titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane: SI Sericite TI-2, available from Miyoshi Kasei; mica and titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane: SI Mica TI-2, available from Miyoshi Kasei; talc and titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane: SI Talc TI-2, available from Miyoshi Kasei; lauroyl lysine: AMIHOPE LL, available from Ajinomoto; synthesis of fluorophlogopite and polymethylsiloxane: PDM-5L (S)/PDM-10L (S)/PDM-20L (S)/PDM-40L (S), available from Topy Industries.

Commercially available hydrophilic pigment components include coated Titanium dioxide, such as Titanium dioxide ecr-50 available from Ishihara Techno Corporation; mica: mica Y-3000 from Yamaguchi Mica; talc: talc JA 13R; purchased from Asada Milling; silicon dioxide: MK-30, purchased from Fuji Silysia; iron oxide, available from Titan Kogyo; boron nitride: boron Nitride SHP-6, available from Mizushima Ferroolloy; barium sulfate: pletelet Barium sulfate H, HF, HG, HL, HM, HP, available from Sakai chemical Industry.

Additional Components

The compositions herein may also comprise additional components, such as components commonly used in topical products, to provide aesthetic or functional benefits to the composition or skin. Such benefits include, for example, sensory benefits relating to appearance, odor, or feel; the beneficial effects of the treatment; or prophylactic benefits (it is understood that the desired substances described above may themselves provide such benefits).

The second edition of "CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook" (1992) describes a variety of non-limiting Cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the industry, which are suitable for use in the topical compositions of the present invention. These other materials may be dissolved or dispersed in the composition depending on the relative solubilities of the components of the composition.

Examples of suitable topical ingredient classes include: anti-cellulite agents, antioxidants, free radical scavengers, chelating agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof, abrasives, other oil absorbents, astringents, dyes, essential oils, fragrances, structuring agents, emulsifiers, solubilizers, anti-caking agents, antifoaming agents, binders, buffers, extenders, denaturants, pH adjusters, propellants, reducing agents, sequestering agents, cosmetic biocides, and preservatives.

Wetting agent

The compositions of the present invention may also contain from about 1% to about 15%, preferably from 2% to about 7%, of a humectant in each layer of the composition.

The wetting agent of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of: polyols, water-soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof. Polyols useful in the present invention include glycerin, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available humectants herein include: glycerol purchased from Asahi Denka; propylene glycol available from Inolex under the trade name LEXOLPG-865/855; 1, 2-propanediol USP from BASF; 1, 3-butanediol available from Kyowa Hakko Kogyo; dipropylene glycol available from BASF under the same trade name; DIGLYCEROL available from Solvay GmbH under the trade name diglyerol; sodium hyaluronate available from Active Organics under the trade name ACTIMOIST; AVIAN sodium hyaluronate series purchased from Intergen; sodium hyaluronate from Ichimaru Pharcos.

Ultraviolet absorber

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of an ultraviolet light absorber. A variety of conventional UV-protective agents are suitable for use herein, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445 to Haffey et al, published 2/11/1992, U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372 to Turner et al, published 12/17/1991, U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,371 to Turner et al, published 12/17/1991, and "Cosmetics Science and technology" (1972) to Segarin et al, chapter VIII, page 189 and beyond. If included, the present compositions comprise from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, of the ultraviolet light absorber.

UV absorbers which can be used according to the invention are, for example, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available under the trade name PARSOL MCX), butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4' -methoxytert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidenecamphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, camphor, Eusolex^TM6300. Octocrylene, avobenzone (commercially available under the trade name Parsol 1789), and mixtures thereof.

Ultraviolet protection powder

Each layer of the composition of the present invention comprises from about 0% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, of a uv-protective powder, e.g., micronized titanium dioxide and micronized zinc oxide. The powders included in the pigment component herein are typically inherently hydrophobic or hydrophobically treated. The powder is of a type and amount to provide UV protection benefits in the composition. The ultraviolet ray protection powder has a particle size of less than 100nm and has no covering effect.

Commercially available ultraviolet protective powders are titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane SI-TTO-S-3Z from Miyoshi Kasei, titanium dioxide and polydimethylsiloxane and aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid from Miyoshi Kasei: SAST-UFTR-Z, Zinc oxide available from Sakai Chemical Industry: finex series.

Thickening agent

Thickeners may be used in the present invention. Thickeners may be used to cure the compositions of the present invention. If used, the thickener can be maintained at about 15% of the total composition. Thickeners useful herein include gelling agents, inorganic thickeners, and mixtures thereof. The amount and type of thickener is selected according to the desired product viscosity and characteristics.

Gellants useful as thickeners in the present invention include esters and amides of fatty acid gellants, hydroxy acids, hydroxy fatty acids, other amide gellants, and crystalline gellants.

The N-acyl amino acid amides useful in the present invention are prepared from glutamic acid, lysine, glutamine, aspartic acid, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are N-acyl glutamic acid amides corresponding to the formula:

R2-NH-CO-(CH2)2-CH-(NH-CO-R1)-CO-NH-R2

wherein R1 is an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms and R2 is an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from about 4 to about 12 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these N-acyl glutamic acid amides include N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid diheptylamide, and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, also known as dibutyl lauroyl glutamine (dibutyl lauroyl glutamide). This material is available from Ajinomoto under the trade name gellant GP-1.

Other suitable gelling agents for use in the composition include 12-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid esters, 12-hydroxystearic acid amides, and combinations thereof. These preferred gelling agents include those corresponding to the formula:

R1-CO-(CH2)10-CH-(OH)-(CH2)5-CH3

wherein R1 is R2 or NR2R 3; and R2 and R3 are hydrogen, or a branched, straight or cyclic alkyl, aryl, or aralkyl group, and have from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably from about 1 to about 18 carbon atoms. R2 and R3 may be the same or different; however, it is preferred that at least one of them is a hydrogen atom. Preferred among these gelling agents are those selected from the group consisting of: 12-hydroxystearic acid, methyl 12-hydroxystearate, ethyl 12-hydroxystearate, stearyl 12-hydroxystearate, benzyl 12-hydroxystearate, 12-hydroxystearamide, isopropylamide 12-hydroxystearate, butylamide 12-hydroxystearate, benzylamide 12-hydroxystearate, phenylamide 12-hydroxystearate, tert-butylamide 12-hydroxystearate, cyclohexylamide 12-hydroxystearate, 1-adamantylamide 12-hydroxystearate, 2-adamantylamide 12-hydroxystearate, diisopropylamide 12-hydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferred are 12-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid isopropylamide, and combinations thereof. Most preferred is 12-hydroxystearic acid.

Suitable amide gellants include di-substituted or branched mono-amide gellants, mono-substituted or branched di-amide gellants, tri-amide gellants, and combinations thereof, but do not include N-acyl amino acid derivatives selected from the group consisting of: n-acyl amino acid amides, N-acyl amino acid esters made from glutamic acid, lysine, glutamine, aspartic acid, and combinations thereof, as specifically disclosed in U.S. patent No. 5,429,816.

Alkylamides or di-and tricarboxylic acids or anhydrides suitable for use in the composition include citric acid alkylamides, tricarballylic acid, aconitic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, succinic acid, and itaconic acids such as 1, 2, 3-propanetributylamide, 2-hydroxy-1, 2, 3-propanetributylamide, 1-propene-1, 2, 3-trioctylamide, N ', N "-tris (acetyldecanamide) amine, 2-dodecyl-N, N ' -dihexylsuccinamide, and 2-dodecyl-N, N ' -dibutylsuccinamide. Preferred are alkylamides of dicarboxylic acids (e.g., alkylsuccinic acid diamide, alkenylsuccinic acid diamide), alkylsuccinic anhydrides and alkenylsuccinic anhydrides, and more preferred is 2-lauryl-N, N' -dibutylsuccinamide.

Inorganic thickeners useful in the present invention include hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite and bentonite which have been modified to be compatible with oils. Preferably, the modification is quaternization with an ammonium compound. Preferred inorganic thickeners include the quaternary ammonium modified hectorites. Commercially available oil swellable clay materials include benzyldimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite available from Elementis under the trade name Bentone 38.

Preparation of the composition:

while the present compositions can be prepared by any method known in the art, the methods herein facilitate the preparation of the present compositions in an aesthetically appealing but cost-effective manner.

The present method is particularly useful in the present compositions wherein the first layer has a viscosity of from about 100 to about 10,000mPas, preferably from 300 to 3000mPas, when reaching a temperature between about 55 ℃ and 90 ℃. The method comprises the following steps:

(a) providing a first layer composition in liquid form selected from the group consisting of a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, and an oil dispersion, and a second layer composition in micronized form in a separate container;

(b) dispensing a predetermined amount of the micro-powdered batch composition in a primary package (e.g., a tray) and then pressing the batch powder by a conventional press;

(c) dispensing the first layer composition in the remainder of the same primary package of step (b) while maintaining the temperature of the first layer composition between 55 ℃ and 90 ℃, preferably between 60 ℃ and 75 ℃; and is

(d) The transferred first layer composition is allowed to cure in the package.

Each of the first layer composition and the second layer composition can be prepared by any suitable known method to provide water-in-oil emulsion compositions, oil-in-water emulsion compositions, oil dispersion compositions, and powder compositions. In one suitable method, the first layer and second layer compositions are independently prepared by:

1. powder composition

In one suitable method, the powder composition may be prepared by the steps of:

1) mixing and pulverizing all the powder materials to prepare a powder mixture;

2) dissolving a non-volatile oil at about 80 ℃ to prepare an adhesive matrix;

3) adding the binder matrix of step 2) to the powder mixture of step 1) and mixing until completely dispersed; and is

4) Grinding the product of step 3) into a powder.

2. Oil dispersion composition

In one suitable method, the oil dispersion composition may be prepared by the steps of:

1) dissolving volatile silicone oil, non-volatile oil, pigment slurry dispersed in the oil, and any other hydrophobic substance in liquid form in a sealed canister at ambient temperature to produce a lipophilic mixture;

2) adding the remaining pigment and powder to the lipophilic mixture and dispersing with a homogenizer at about 20 ℃ to 30 ℃;

3) heating the lipophilic mixture of step 2) at about 80 ℃ to 85 ℃ and adding the solid wax and any remaining hydrophobic material; and is

4) The finally obtained emulsion is cooled to a temperature of about 60 ℃ to 80 ℃.

The resulting composition, which is still fluid at the above temperatures, is filled in an airtight container and cooled to room temperature, typically using a cooling unit. The resulting composition is solid at ambient temperature and can therefore be poured into the above-mentioned container and cured therein.

3. Oil-in-water emulsion composition

In one suitable method, the oil-in-water emulsion composition can be prepared by:

1) dissolving water, a wetting agent, a fatty acid salt and any other hydrophilic substance in liquid form in a sealed tank at about 80 to 85 ℃ to prepare a hydrophilic mixture;

2) adding the rest of the pigment and powder to the hydrophilic mixture and dispersing with a homogenizer;

3) dissolving volatile silicone oil, non-volatile oil, fatty compounds in the oil, and any other hydrophobic substance in liquid form in a sealed canister at ambient temperature to produce a lipophilic mixture;

4) adding the hydrophilic mixture of step 2) to the lipophilic mixture of step 3) to effect emulsification;

5) the finally obtained emulsion is cooled to a temperature of about 60 ℃ to 80 ℃.

The resulting composition, which is still fluid at the above temperatures, is filled in an airtight container and cooled to room temperature, typically using a cooling unit. The resulting composition is solid at ambient temperature and can therefore be poured into the above-mentioned container and cured therein.

4. Water-in-oil emulsion composition

In one suitable method, the water-in-oil emulsion composition can be prepared by:

1) dissolving volatile silicone oil, non-volatile oil, lipophilic surfactant, pigment slurry dispersed in oil, and any other hydrophobic substance in liquid form in a sealed canister at ambient temperature to prepare a lipophilic mixture;

2) adding the remaining pigment and powder to the lipophilic mixture and dispersing with a homogenizer at about 20 ℃ to 30 ℃;

3) independently of the phases of steps 1) and 2), the wetting agent and any other hydrophilic substances are heated and dissolved in water at about 75 ℃ to 80 ℃ and then cooled to about 20 ℃ to 30 ℃;

4) adding the product of step 3) to the product of step 2) to achieve emulsification;

5) heating and adding the solid wax and any remaining hydrophobic material to the product of step 4) at about 80 ℃ to 85 ℃; and is

6) The finally obtained emulsion is cooled to a temperature of about 60 ℃ to 80 ℃.

The resulting composition, which is still fluid at the above temperatures, is filled in an airtight container and cooled to room temperature, typically using a cooling unit. The resulting composition is solid at ambient temperature and can therefore be poured into the above-mentioned container and cured therein.

Examples

The following examples further describe and illustrate preferred embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

1) Examples 1 to 5(W/O solid emulsion layer)

The following water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic compositions were formed by the methods described below:

numbering	Components	Examples 1 to 1	Example 2-1	Example 3-1	Example 4-1	Example 5-1
							1	Cyclopentasiloxane 1	25.90	25.90	25.90	15.90	16.90
2	PEG-9 Dimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane 2	1.50	1.50	1.50	1.50	1.50
							3	Polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer 3	-	-	-	-	10.00

4	Trimethylsiloxysilicate and cyclopentasiloxane 4	-	-	-	10.00	-
							5	Tocopheryl acetate 5	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50
6	Isotridecyl isononanoate 6	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00
							7	Sorbitan monoisostearate 7	1.50	1.50	1.50	1.50	1.50
8	Iron oxide and cyclopentasiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane and disodium hydrogen glutamate 8	2.00	1.80	2.00	2.00	2.00
							9	Titanium dioxide and polydimethylsiloxane and disodium hydrogenglutamate 9	-	-	-	-	8.00
10	Titanium dioxide and talc and polymethylsiloxane 10	14.00	12.60	10.00	12.00	-
							11	Alumina and titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane 11	-	-	-	2.00	3.00
12	Titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane 12	-	-	5.00	-	-
							13	Titanium dioxide and polydimethylsiloxane and aluminium hydroxide and stearic acid 13	3.00	3.00	3.00	3.00	5.00
14	Talc and polymethylsiloxane 14	7.00	8.60	6.00	7.00	7.00
							15	Water (W)	29.00	29.00	30.00	28.00	29.00
16	Nicotinamide 15	4.00	4.00	3.00	3.00	4.00
							17	N-acetyl-D-glucosamine	-	-	-	2.00	-
18	Preservative	0.45	0.45	0.45	0.45	0.45
							19	Panthenol 16	0.25	0.25	0.25	0.25	0.25
20	Glycerol 17	-	-	-	2.00	5.00
							21	Butanediol 18	5.00	5.00	5.00	3.00	-
22	Candelilla wax 19	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00
							23	Pure ceresin wax 20	1.90	1.90	1.90	1.90	1.90
Total of		100.00	100.00	100.00	100.00	100.00

Component definition

1 cyclopentasiloxane: SH245 available from Dow Corning

2PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane: KF-6028 available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

3 polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer: KSG-16, available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

4 trimethylsiloxysilicate and cyclopentasiloxane: trimethylsiloxysilicate/cyclomethicone D5 blend available from GE Toshiba Silicones

5 tocopheryl acetate DL-alpha tocopheryl acetate, available from Eisai

Isotridecyl 6 isononanoate: crodamol TN available from Croda

Sorbitan 7 mono isostearate: crill 6 from Croda

Iron oxide and cyclopentasiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane and disodium hydrogenglutamate: SA/NAI-Y-10/D5 (70%), SA/NAI-R-10/D5 (65%) and SA/NAI-B-10/D5 (75%) from Miyoshi Kasei

9 titanium dioxide and polydimethylsiloxane and disodium hydrogenglutamate: SA/NAI-TR-10, available from Miyoshi Kasei

10 titanium dioxide and talc and polymethylsiloxane: SI-T-CR-50Z available from Miyoshi Kasei

11 alumina and titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane: SI-LTSG30AFLAKEH (5%) LHC available from Miyoshi Kasei

12 titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane: SI-FTL-300 available from Miyoshi Kasei

13 titanium dioxide and polydimethylsiloxane and aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid: SAST-UFTR-Z available from Miyoshi Kasei

14 talc and polymethylsiloxane: SI Talc JA13R LHC available from Miyoshi Kasei

15 nicotinamide: nicotinamide, available from Reilly Industries Inc.

16 panthenol: DL-panthenol, available from Alps Pharmaceutical Inc.

17 glycerol: glycerol USP available from Asahi Denka

18 butanediol: 1, 3-butanediol available from Kyowa Hakko Kogyo

19 candelilla wax: candelilla wax NC-1630, available from Cerica Noda

20 ceresin: geranium wax SP-1021, available from Strahl & Pitsh

Preparation method

The first layer W/O solid emulsion compositions of examples 1-1 to 5-1 were prepared by:

1) components 1 to 8 were mixed with a suitable stirrer until homogeneous to prepare the silicone phase.

2) The components 9 to 14 were mixed until homogeneous with a suitable stirrer to prepare a pigment mixture, which was then pulverized with a pulverizer. The pigment mixture is then added to the silicone phase with a suitable stirrer until homogeneous.

3) Components 15 to 21 were dissolved with a suitable stirrer until all components were dissolved to prepare an aqueous phase to which the silicone phase and the pigment mixture could be subsequently added to prepare an emulsion with a homogenizer at room temperature.

4) Components 23 and 22 were added to the emulsion which was then dissolved in a sealed jar by heating at 85 ℃.

5) Finally, the emulsion was filled into an airtight container and cooled to room temperature using a cooling unit.

2) Examples 6 to 10(O/W solid emulsion layer)

The following oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic compositions were formed by the methods described herein:

numbering	Components	Example 6-1	Example 7-1	Example 8-1	Example 9-1	Example 10-1
							1	Cyclopentasiloxane 1	12.50	10.50	14.50	10.50	10.50
2	Stearic acid 2	1.20	1.20	1.20	1.20	1.20
							3	Stearin 3	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00
4	Tocopheryl acetate 4	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50
							5	Isotridecyl isononanoate 5	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00
6	Phenyl trimethyl siloxane 6	8.00	8.00	8.00	8.00	8.00
							7	Iron oxide	2.00	2.00	2.00	-	-
8	Titanium dioxide 7	8.00	8.00	8.00	-	-
							9	Mica 8	5.00	5.00	5.00	7.00	7.00
10	Talc 9	6.00	6.00	6.00	14.00	14.00
							11	Water (W)	35.76	39.76	35.00	35.76	35.00
12	Stearic acid sodium salt	6.50	6.50	6.50	6.50	6.50
							13	Triethanolamine	0.10	0.10	0.10	-	-
14	Potassium hydroxide	-	-	-	0.10	0.10
							15	Nicotinamide 10	3.50	3.50	3.50	3.50	3.50
16	Ascorbyl glucoside 11	2.00	2.00	-	2.00	-
							17	Sodium hydroxide	0.24	0.24	-	0.24	-
18	N-acetyl-D-glucosamine 12	2.00	-	-	2.00	2.00
							19	Ascorbic acid magnesium phosphate 13	-	-	3.00	-	3.00
20	Preservative	0.45	0.45	0.45	0.45	0.45
							21	Panthenol 14	0.25	0.25	0.25	0.25	0.25
22	Glycerol 15	-	-	3.00	-	2.00
							23	Butanediol 16	3.00	3.00	-	5.00	3.00
Total of		100.00	100.00	100.00	100.00	100.00

Component definition

1 cyclopentasiloxane: SH245 available from Dow Corning

2 stearic acid: stearic acid 750 available from Kao

3, stearic acid glyceride: arlacel161, available from Uniqema

4 tocopheryl acetate: DL-alpha-tocopheryl acetate, available from Eisai

5 isotridecyl isononanoate: crodamol TN available from Croda

6 phenyl trimethicone: KF-56, available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

7, titanium dioxide: titanium dioxide CR-50 available from Ishihara Techno Corporation

8 mica: mica Y-3000 from Yamaguchi Mica

9 talc: talc JA 13R; available from Asada Milling

10 nicotinamide: nicotinamide, available from Reilly Industries Inc.

11 ascorbyl glucoside: ascorbyl glucoside, available from Hayashibara

12N-acetyl D-glucosamine: n-acetyl D-glucosamine, available from Technical sourcing International

13 magnesium ascorbyl phosphate: magnesium ascorbyl phosphate from Showa Denko

14 panthenol: DL-panthenol, available from Alps Pharmaceutical Inc.

15% of glycerol: glycerol USP available from Asahi Denka

16 butanediol: 1, 3-butanediol available from Kyowa Hakko Kogyo

Preparation method

The cosmetic compositions of examples 6-1 to 10-1 were prepared as follows:

1) components 11 to 23 were mixed with a suitable stirrer and heated to dissolve at 75 ℃ to prepare an aqueous phase.

2) The components 7 to 10 were mixed until uniform with a suitable stirrer to prepare a pigment mixture, which was then pulverized with a pulverizer. And then the pigment mixture is added to the aqueous phase with a suitable stirrer until homogeneous.

3) The emulsion is prepared using a homogenizer by mixing components 1 to 6 with a suitable stirrer and heating to dissolve at 80 ℃ to prepare an oil phase which can then be added to the water phase and the pigment mixture.

4) Finally, the emulsion was filled into an airtight container and cooled to room temperature using a cooling unit.

3) Examples 11 to 15 (oil Dispersion layer)

The following oil dispersion cosmetic compositions were formed by the methods described herein:

numbering	Components	Example 11-1	Example 12-1	Example 13-1	Example 14-1	Example 15-1
							1	Cyclopentasiloxane 1	61.25	51.25	36.05	62.75	33.35
2	PEG-9 Dimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane 2	-	-	-	-	1.00
							3	Polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer 3	-	-	10.00	25.00	-
4	Trimethylsiloxysilicate and cyclopentasiloxane 4	-	-	10.00	-	20.00
							5	Phenyl trimethyl siloxane 5	5.00	5.00	5.00	5.00	-
6	Isotridecyl isononanoate 6	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00	10.00
							7	Sorbitan monoisostearate 7	-	3.00	3.00	1.00	3.00
8	Iron oxide and cyclopentasiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane and disodium hydrogen glutamate 8	2.00	2.00	2.00	-	-
							9	Titanium dioxide and talc and polymethylsiloxane 9	10.00	10.00	12.00	-	-
10	Mica and polymethylsiloxane 10	8.00	8.00	8.00	-	15.00
							11	Talc and polymethylsiloxane 11	8.00	15.00	8.00	-	15.00
12	Preservative	0.25	0.25	0.25	0.25	0.25
							13	Candelilla wax 12	1.80	1.80	1.80	2.00	1.20
14	Ceresin 13	1.70	1.70	1.70	2.00	1.20
							Total of		100.00	100.00	100.00	100.00	100.00

Component definition

1 cyclopentasiloxane: SH245 available from Dow Corning

2PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane: KF-6028 available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

3 polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer: KSG-16, available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

4 trimethylsiloxysilicate and cyclopentasiloxane: trimethylsiloxysilicate/cyclomethicone D5 blend available from GE Toshiba Silicones

5 phenyl trimethicones: KF-56, available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

Isotridecyl 6 isononanoate: crodamol TN available from Croda

Sorbitan 7 mono isostearate: crill 6 from Croda

Iron oxide and cyclopentasiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane and disodium hydrogenglutamate: SA/NAI-Y-10/D5 (70%), SA/NAI-R-10/D5 (65%) and SA/NAI-B-10/D5 (75%) from Miyoshi Kasei

9 titanium dioxide and talc and polymethylsiloxane: SI-T-CR-50Z available from Miyoshi Kasei

10 mica and polymethylsiloxane: SI Mica, from Miyoshi Kasei

11 talc and polymethylsiloxane: SI-Talc JA13R from Miyoshi Kasei

12 candelilla wax: candelilla wax NC-1630, available from Cerica Noda

13 ceresin: geranium wax SP-1021, available from Strahl & Pitsh

Preparation method

The cosmetic compositions of examples 11-1 to 15-1 were prepared as follows:

1) components 1 to 7 were mixed with a suitable stirrer until homogeneous to prepare the silicone phase.

2) The components 8 to 11 were mixed with a suitable stirrer until homogeneous to prepare a pigment mixture. The mixture was then pulverized with a pulverizer. And then the pigment mixture is added to the silicone phase with a suitable stirrer until homogeneous.

3) Components 12 to 14 were added to the emulsion of step 2, which was then heated at 85 ℃ to dissolve the components in a sealed jar.

4) Finally, the emulsion was filled into an airtight container and cooled to room temperature using a cooling unit.

4) Examples 1 to 15 (powder base)

The following powder foundation cosmetic compositions were formed by the process described herein:

numbering	Components	Examples 1-2 examples 6-2 examples 11-2	Examples 2-2 examples 7-2 examples 12-2	Examples 3-2 examples 8-2 examples 13-2	Examples 4-2 examples 9-2 examples 14-2	Examples 5-2 examples 10-2 examples 15-2
							1	Methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer and polymethylsiloxane 1	-	-	-	10.00	10.00
2	Nylon-125 μm 2	-	-	-	-	3.00
							3	Talc and polymethylsiloxane 3	50.09	55.60	73.60	32.10	14.59
4	Mica and polymethylsiloxane 4	10.00	-	-	-	10.00
							5	Spherical silica and polymethylsiloxane 5	5.00	-	5.00	2.00	5.00
6	Vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsilsesquioxane crosspolymer 6	-	5.00	-	-	-
							7	Mica and zinc oxide and polymethylsiloxane and hydroxyapatite 7	-	20.00	8.00	-	10.00
8	Sericite and polymethylsiloxane 8	5.00	7.00	5.00	32.00	20.00
							9	Titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane 9	-	-	-	12.00	10.50
10	Mica and titanium dioxide 10	15.00	-	-	-	-
							11	P-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester	0.30	0.30	0.30	0.30	0.30
12	Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate	0.10	0.10	0.10	0.10	0.10
							13	Iron oxide and polymethylsiloxane 11	-	-	-	2.50	2.00

14	Methylphenylpolysiloxane 12	8.50	-	4.00	-	8.50
							15	Polydimethylsiloxane*13	-	8.00	-	5.00	-
16	Sorbitan monoisostearate 14	1.00	-	-	-	1.00
							17	D-delta-tocopherol 15	0.01	-	-	-	0.01
18	Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 16	5.00	4.00	4.00	4.00	5.00
							Total of		100.00	100.00	100.00	100.00	100.00

Component definition

1 methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer and polymethylsiloxane: SI-L-XC-F006Z, available from MiyoshiKasei

2 nylon-125 μm: available from TORAY under the trade name NYLON POWDER SP-500

3 talc and polymethylsiloxane: SI TALC JA13R, available from MIYOSHI KASEI, INC.

4 mica and polymethylsiloxane: SI MICA available from MIYOSHI KASEI, INC

5 spherical silica and polymethylsiloxane: SI-SILDEX H-52, available from Asahi glass company Co., Ltd., and surface treated with Miyoshi Kasei, has an oil absorption of greater than 200mL/100g

6 vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer: KSG-100 (purchased from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)

Mica and zinc oxide and polymethylsiloxane and hydroxyapatite 7: SI-PLV-20, available from MIYOSHIKASEI, INC.

8 sericite and polymethylsiloxane: commercially available from MIYOSHIKASEI INC under the trade name SI TALC SI SERICITE.

9 titanium dioxide and polymethylsiloxane: SI Titanium Dioxide IS, available from MIYOSHIKASEI, INC.

10 mica and titanium dioxide: available from THE same MEARL under THE trade name FLAMENCO SUPER PEARL

11 iron oxide and polymethylsiloxane: commercially available under the trade name IRON OXIDE series from DAITO KASEIKOUGYOU co.

12 methylphenyl polysiloxane: commercially available from SHINETSU CHEMICAL co, LTD under the trade name KF 56.

13 polydimethylsiloxane: SH200, available from Dow Corning

14 sorbitan monoisostearate: crill 6 from Croda

15D- δ -tocopherol: commercially available under the trade name D-DELTA-TOCOPHEROL from EISAI CO., LTD.

16 ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate: commercially available under the trade name PARSOL MCX from ROCHE VITAMINSJAPAN K.K.

Preparation method

The second layer of powder cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 15 were prepared as follows:

1) mixing components 1 to 13 with a stirrer to prepare a powder component;

2) mixing the components 14 to 18 separately under heating until all components are completely dissolved to prepare an adhesive component;

3) adding the binder component to the powder component and mixing with a mixer; and is

4) Grinding the composition obtained in step 3 into powder and filling into a container.

Fifteen different two-layer foundation products can be prepared using the preparation methods described above and by combining the first layer compositions 1-1 to 15-1 and the corresponding second layer compositions 1-2 to 15-2 of examples 1 to 15 in a weight ratio of 9: 1 to 1: 9. The dual layer foundation products of the present invention not only have a more appealing aesthetic appearance, but also provide a variety of skin benefits. For example, examples 1, 6, and 11 can provide a glow appearance by including mica and titanium dioxide in the second layer. Examples 2, 7 and 12 can provide oil control light benefits and soft focus benefits by including mica and zinc oxide and polymethylsiloxane and hydroxyapatite and spherical silica and polymethylsiloxane and vinyl dimethicone polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer in the second layer. Examples 3, 8 and 13 can provide oil control light benefits by including mica and zinc oxide and polymethylsiloxane and hydroxyapatite and spherical silica and polymethylsiloxane in the second layer. Examples 4,9 and 14 can provide a soft focus benefit by including a methyl methacrylate crosspolymer and polymethylsiloxane in the second layer. Examples 5, 10 and 15 can provide an oil control light benefit and a soft focus benefit by including mica and zinc oxide and polymethylsiloxane and hydroxyapatite and spherical silica and polymethylsiloxane and methyl methacrylate crosspolymer and polymethylsiloxane in the second layer.

All documents cited in the detailed description of the invention are incorporated herein by reference in relevant part. The citation of any document is not to be construed as an admission that it is prior art with respect to the present invention. To the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this written document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to the term in this written document shall govern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.

Claims (12)

1. A solid skin care composition comprising:

(a) a first layer which is solid at 45 ℃ and is selected from the group consisting of a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion and an oil dispersion; and

(b) a second laminated powder layer;

wherein the first layer and the second layer are provided in the same package in such a way that the first layer and the second layer can be applied simultaneously.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first layer and the second layer are visually distinct.

3. The composition of claim 2, wherein at least one of the first layer and the second layer comprises a colorant to make the two layers visually distinct.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the first layer to the second layer is from about 1: 99 to about 99: 1.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water emulsion, and oil dispersion each provide a viscosity of from about 100mPas to about 3000mPas when reaching a temperature of between about 55 ℃ and about 90 ℃.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the laminate layer comprises:

(a) powder; and

(b) a non-volatile oil.

7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the first layer is a water-in-oil emulsion comprising:

(a) a volatile silicone oil;

(b) a non-volatile oil;

(c) a solid wax;

(d) a lipophilic surfactant;

(e) a pigment powder; and

(f) and (3) water.

8. The composition of claim 6, wherein the first layer is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

(a) water;

(b) a hydrophilic surfactant;

(c) a pigment powder;

(d) a non-volatile oil;

(e) a fatty compound or a fatty acid salt; and

(f) a volatile silicone oil.

9. The composition of claim 6, wherein the composition is an oil dispersion comprising:

(a) a volatile silicone oil;

(b) a non-volatile oil;

(c) a solid wax; and

(d) and (3) powder.

10. The composition of claim 1, wherein at least one of the first layer and the second layer comprises at least one benefit agent selected from the group consisting of: luminescent powders, soft-focus silicone elastomers, film forming polymers, oil absorbing powders, sebum solidifying powders, skin active agents, and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition of claim 10, wherein said first layer comprises at least one benefit agent selected from the group consisting of: film-forming polymers, soft focus silicone elastomers, skin active agents, and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition of claim 10, wherein said second layer comprises at least one benefit agent selected from the group consisting of: luminescent powders, soft-focus powders, oil-absorbing powders, sebum-solidifying powders, and mixtures thereof.