HK1107039A - Mascara composition and method of using - Google Patents
Mascara composition and method of using Download PDFInfo
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- HK1107039A HK1107039A HK07112525.2A HK07112525A HK1107039A HK 1107039 A HK1107039 A HK 1107039A HK 07112525 A HK07112525 A HK 07112525A HK 1107039 A HK1107039 A HK 1107039A
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Description
Background
1. Field of the invention
The present invention relates to mascara compositions. The present invention also relates to methods of imparting curl to eyelashes and increasing the volume of the eyelashes.
2. Description of the related Art
Mascara compositions are often used by women to highlight and enhance the appearance of eyelashes. Such enhancements may include imparting color or hue, fullness, i.e., coarseness and length, and curl.
There is a need for mascara compositions that possess curl and volume that impart a degree of volume to the eyelashes for an extended period of time. There is also a need for a method of imparting a degree of curl and volume to eyelashes that lasts for an extended period of time.
Summary of The Invention
It is an object of the present invention to provide mascara compositions that impart a degree of curl and volume to the eyelashes.
It is another object of the present invention to provide mascara compositions that impart a degree of curl and volume to the eyelashes for an extended period of time.
It is another object of the present invention to provide an emulsion mascara composition. The emulsion composition contains an imide polymer film former, a wax, water, and a pigment or colorant.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a method of imparting a degree of curl and volume to eyelashes. The method has the step of applying to the eyelashes an emulsion mascara composition containing an imide polymer film former, a wax, water, and a pigment or colorant.
Detailed Description
It has been surprisingly found that mascara compositions can be present that provide an enhanced degree of curl and fullness. It has further been unexpectedly found that the enhanced degree of curl and fullness can be sustained for an extended period of time. It has also been surprisingly found that there can be a means of imparting a degree of curl and volume to eyelashes for an extended period of time.
An important feature of the mascara composition of the present invention is the presence of the imide polymer. The imide polymer acts as a film former on the outer surface of the eyelashes. After the composition is applied to the eyelashes, the water and other liquid solvents begin to evaporate and create a retraction/contraction or pulling action within the film former. The retraction/contraction action of the film former curls the eyelashes. After evaporation of the water and any other liquid solvent and substantial drying of the formed film, the curl is fixed.
Useful imide polymers are formed from the following monomer units:
r, R therein1、R2And R3Selected from H, alkyl, alkoxy, cycloalkyl, aryl, ester, acid, fluorine and silyl and R4Is H or alkyl, preferably alkyl. R' is hydrogen, aryl, alkyl or alkyl derived from fluorine, silyl, amino or alkenyl, and x is 0.05-0.95, y is 0-0.9 and z is 0.05-0.95. The letters x, y and z are expressed in mole fraction.
Can be prepared by dissolving in an alcoholic solution R4Reacting maleic anhydride copolymers or the corresponding half-esters thereof with alpha-unsubstituted primary amines R' NH in OH2The reaction forms an imide polymer.
The reaction is carried out at about 60 ℃ to 160 ℃ for a predetermined period of time. The reaction temperature is preferably from about 80 ℃ to about 150 ℃ and most preferably from about 100 ℃ to about 120 ℃. The reaction time is from about 1 to about 25 hours and most preferably from about 2 to about 10 hours.
Preferred starting copolymers for preparing imide polymers include the following: i) alkyl vinyl ether-maleic anhydride copolymers such as methyl vinyl ether-maleic anhydride copolymers or their corresponding half-esters; ii) an isobutylene-maleic anhydride copolymer or its corresponding half ester; iii) an ethylene-maleic anhydride copolymer or its corresponding half-ester; and iv) a styrene-maleic anhydride copolymer or its corresponding half-ester.
Preferred alpha-unsubstituted amines for use in preparing imide polymers are C1-C40Alkyl alpha-unsubstituted primary amines such as n-hexylamine, n-octylamine, and 2-ethylhexylamine. It is also possible to use ammonia, siliconized primary amines, fluorinated primary amines, halogenated primary amines, unsaturated amines, cyanoamines and amphoteric amines.
Imide polymers without an amide component, i.e., all of the amide has been converted to the cyclic imide form, can be obtained by carrying out the process at 115 ℃ for about 5 hours or more than 5 hours. Such imide polymers have half-ester and cyclic imide repeat units.
The polymerized imide monomer units may constitute a part or all of the imide polymer in the above percentages. Particularly preferred imide polymers are isobutylene/dimethylaminopropylmaleimide/ethoxylated maleimide/maleic acid copolymers. Preferred isobutylene/dimethylaminopropylmaleimide/ethoxylated maleimide/maleic acid copolymers are represented by the following structure:
wherein m is 1-50, n is 1-50, x is 0.05-0.95, y is 0-0.9 and z is 0.05-0.95 and R is H or CH2CH3. The letters x, y and z are expressed in mole fraction. Isobutylene/dimethylaminopropylmaleimide/ethoxylated maleimide/maleic acid copolymer is a preferred film former. A suitable imide polymer is Aquaflex®XL-30 (sold by ISP).
Additional teachings relating to the structure and composition of useful imide polymers and methods of preparation are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,869,695 and 5,994,385, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. The method of making the imide polymer is not an important aspect of the present invention.
The imide polymer is present in a film forming effective amount. Preferably, the imide polymer is present in an amount of about 0.05 wt% to about 8 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the imide polymer is present in an amount of about 0.1 weight percent to about 5 weight percent based on the total weight of the composition. Most preferably, the imide polymer is present in an amount of about 0.4 wt% to about 1.5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
Mascara compositions contain one or more waxes. Suitable waxes include any of the waxes well known in the cosmetic art, such as those of animal origin, vegetable origin, mineral origin, and synthetic origin. Suitable waxes include, but are not limited to, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, ouricury wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, sugar cane wax, polyethylene waxes, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, or any combination thereof.
Suitable waxes have a melting point in the range of 60 ℃ to 110 ℃ and a needle penetration in the range of 1 to 7.5. The degree of needle penetration of the wax was determined according to ASTM D1321. Mixtures of hard and soft waxes are preferred. Most preferred is a mixture of carnauba wax and beeswax.
The wax is present in the mascara composition in an amount effective to enhance the volume of the eyelashes. Preferably, the wax is present in an amount of about 8 wt% to about 35 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the wax is present in an amount of about 10 wt% to about 30 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. Most preferably, the wax is present in an amount of about 15 wt% to about 25 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
Mascara compositions contain one or more pigments, pearlescers, and/or colorants. Useful pigments and/or colorants include any known pigment and/or colorant in the cosmetic arts. The coating and surface treatment may also enhance the shine or luster exhibited by the mascara composition. Examples of useful pigments include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, ferric blue, and mica; organic pigments include barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum lake pigments, ultramarine and carbon black; colorants include D & CGreen #3, D & C Yellow #5, and D & C Blue # 1. The pigments and/or colorants may be coated or surface treated with one or more compatibilizing agents to aid dispersion in either or both of the aqueous or wax phases. Preferred pigments and/or colorants are those surface treated with dimethicone copolyol.
The pigment may be present in the composition in an amount of from 1 to about 25 wt.%, and preferably from about 1 to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
The term "pearlescent agent" is understood to mean pearlescent colored particles, in particular particles produced in their shell by certain shellfish or synthetic pearlescent particles. These pearlescent agents are particularly useful for improving the texture of the composition.
The pearlescent agent may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0 to about 20 weight percent, and preferably from about 1 weight percent to about 15 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. Suitable pearlescent agents also include mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide or natural pigments.
The mascara composition may optionally have a film former ("additional film former") in addition to the imide polymer. Additional film formers can produce desirable enhanced and/or optimized properties, such as curl level and durability of eyelashes. The one or more additional film forming agents may be substantially water or oil resistant and of natural or synthetic origin. Suitable oil resistant film formers include, but are not limited to, the following: acrylics (acrylates), polyacrylates, acrylamide polymers and copolymers and their quaternary ammonium salts; carbamates; polyurethanes; polyesters; polysaccharides; polyamides; polyols; polyethers; celluloses; proteins; a polyamino acid; esters derived from rosin; (ii) a latex; or any combination thereof. Suitable water resistant film formers include, but are not limited to, polyolefins, polyvinylpyrrolidone polymers and copolymers, polyethylenes, polyalkylates, polystyrenes, triglycerides, epoxies, shellacs, or any combination thereof.
Preferred compositions have an additional film former that is substantially water resistant. A preferred water resistant film former is vinyl pyrroleAn alkanone/eicosene copolymer. Suitable vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymers are Ganex®V-220 (sold by ISP).
If present, the water resistant film former is preferably present in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the water resistant film former is present in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 1 wt%. Most preferably, the water resistant film former is present in an amount of about 0.2 wt% to about 0.6 wt%.
Preferred compositions also have an additional film former that is a cationic polymer. Suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-47, or any combination thereof. Polyquaternium-7 is particularly preferred. Polyquaternium-7 is a quaternary ammonium salt of acrylamide/dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymer. Polyquaternium-7 can be used as SALCARE®Super 7 is commercially available (sold by Ciba Specialty Chemicals, Inc.).
If present, the cationic polymer is preferably present in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the cationic polymeric film former is present in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.5 wt%. Most preferably, the cationic polymeric film former is present in an amount of about 0.25 wt% to about 1 wt%.
Preferred compositions contain an imide polymer film former, a water resistant film former and a cationic polymer film former. The most preferred compositions contain film formers of isobutylene/dimethylaminopropylmaleimide/ethoxylated maleimide/maleic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymers, and quaternary ammonium salts of acrylamide/dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers.
In preferred compositions, the ratio of imide polymer film former to water resistant film former is from about 15: 1 to about 1: 1 and more preferably from about 6: 1 to about 2: 1. The ratio of imide polymer film former to cationic film former is from about 20: 1 to about 1: 1 and more preferably from about 15: 1 to about 5: 1.
The mascara compositions of the present invention optionally have a plurality of fibers. When the mascara composition is applied, the fibers are attached to the surface of the eyelashes. The fibers can enhance the volume of eyelashes, i.e., increase their thickness and length. The fibers may be of any type known in the cosmetic art and may be natural or synthetic. Thermoplastic fibers, such as those of polyethylene, polypropylene or nylon, are preferred.
The fiber is present in the mascara composition in an amount effective to enhance plumping ability. Preferably, the fibers are present in an amount of about 0.05 wt% to about 1 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the fibers are present in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 0.7 wt%. Most preferably, the fibers are present in an amount of about 0.2 wt% to about 0.5 wt%.
The mascara composition of the present invention takes the form of an emulsion. The emulsion may be a wax-in-water type or a water-in-wax type emulsion. Wax-in-water type emulsions are preferred. The wax phase can be alternatively described as an oil phase. The composition contains one or more emulsifiers/surfactants. The preferred emulsifier is prepared in situ by reaction between a binder, preferably triethanolamine, and an organic acid, preferably stearic acid. The emulsifier is present in an amount sufficient to maintain a stable emulsion. Preferably, the emulsifier is present in an amount of about 1 wt% to about 20 wt% and most preferably about 2.5 wt% to about 10 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. The composition is aqueous and preferably contains from 30 wt% to about 75 wt% water, more preferably from 40 wt% to about 65 wt% excipient and most preferably from 45 wt% to about 60 wt% water, based on the total weight of the composition.
The mascara composition may optionally contain one or more additional excipients (other than water) that are cosmetically acceptable. Such additional excipients include, but are not limited to, one or more lower alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, isododecane, polyols, glycols, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or any combination thereof.
The aqueous phase is a mixture of one or more water-soluble or water-dispersible components, which may be liquid, semi-solid, or solid at room temperature (25 ℃). One skilled in the art can select the appropriate cosmetic form, the components contained therein, and the method of preparation thereof based on the knowledge of one skilled in the art.
The compositions of the invention may also contain any of the components conventionally used in the cosmetic field, in particular in the preparation of mascara products. The amounts of these various components are those conventionally used in the cosmetic arts to achieve their intended purpose and are present in the range of from about 0.01 to about 20 wt.% by weight of the composition. The nature of these components and their amounts must be compatible with the production of stable compositions of the invention.
The compositions of the present invention may also contain fillers commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The term "filler" is understood to mean colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar particles.
The filler may be present in an amount of from 0 to about 30 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition. Suitable fillers include talc, silica, zinc stearate, mica, kaolin, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, teflon, starch, boron nitride, copolymer microspheres such as expancel (nobel industrie), polytrap (dow corning) and silicone resin microbeads (tosearl from Toshiba).
The composition may also include one or more of the following optional components: amino acids, antioxidants, emollients, emulsifiers, eyelash protectants, eyelash penetration enhancers, moisturizers, preservatives, surfactants, thickeners, viscosity and/or rheology modifiers, vitamins, or any combination thereof.
The mascara composition may be applied to the eyelashes as needed or desired to impart curl, volume, and color. Generally, the composition may be administered once daily. The composition may be administered two or more times per day, if desired. The composition will provide curl retention and permanence and fullness preferably for about 8 hours or more per day, more preferably about 10 hours or more per day, and most preferably about 12 hours or more per day. By durable, it is meant that substantially no flaking or brittleness is exhibited on the eyelashes, and substantially no smudging or staining is exhibited.
The following are examples of the present invention. All percentages or parts are by weight unless otherwise stated.
Examples
Mascara compositions of the present invention were prepared. The components are listed in table 1.
TABLE 1
| Components | 1*(Wt%) | 2*(Wt%) | 3*(Wt%) |
| Stearic acid triethanolamine | 7.0 | 6.5 | 8.0 |
| Beeswax (Cera flava) | 14.0 | 15 | 25 |
| Carnauba wax | 9 | 5.0 | 2.5 |
| Candelilla wax | 0 | 2.5 | 2.5 |
| Arabic gum | 1.0 | 1.4 | 0.8 |
| P-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester | 0.4 | 0.45 | 0.5 |
| Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate | 0.2 | 0.25 | 0.3 |
| Phenoxyacetaldehyde | 0.2 | 0.3 | 0.35 |
| Polyimide polymer1 | 0.1 | 1.5 | 8.0 |
| VP/eicosene copolymers2 | 0.1 | 1.0 | 1.5 |
| Polyquaternium-73 | 0.1 | 1.0 | 1.5 |
| Black iron oxide | 8.0 | 9.0 | 7.0 |
| Ultramarine blue | 1.0 | 0.20 | 1.0 |
| Polypropylene fiber | 0.1 | 0.4 | 1.5 |
| Water (softening) | QS 100% | QS 100% | QS 100% |
Percentage based on active ingredient
1Aquaflex XL-30 (ISP-30% active ingredient)
2Ganex-220 (ISP-100% active ingredient)
3Salcare Super 7(Ciba Geigy Specialty Chemicals-40% active ingredient)
The wax phase is prepared by melting the lipophilic components (wax, triethanolamine stearate, and VP/eicosene copolymer) at 85 ℃ to 110 ℃ to form an oil premix. The hydrophilic components (polyimide polymer, polyquaternium-7, gum arabic, and preservative) and the pigment were mixed with water at 85-110 c to form an aqueous premix. The premixture is typically combined by adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase by means of high speed mixing and cooling the resulting mixture to room temperature. The composition is then filled into a conventional mascara container and the container is sealed with a cap that includes a mascara-applying brush.
It is to be understood that the above description is only illustrative of the present invention. Various alternatives and modifications can be devised by those skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the invention. Accordingly, the present invention is intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications and variances which fall within the scope of the appended claims.
Claims (32)
1. A mascara composition comprising:
an imide polymer having film-forming properties;
a wax;
water; and
a pigment, a pearlescent or coloring agent,
wherein the composition is an emulsion; and wherein the imide polymer has the structure:
r, R therein1、R2And R3Selected from H, alkyl, alkoxy, cycloalkyl, aryl, ester, acid, fluorine and silyl and R4Is an alkyl group; wherein R' is hydrogen, aryl, alkyl or alkyl derivatized with fluorine, silyl, amino or alkenyl, and x is 0.05-0.95, y is 0-0.9 and z is 0.05-0.95.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the imide polymer is present in an amount about 0.05 to about 8 based on the total weight of the composition.
3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the imide polymer is present in an amount about 0.4 to about 1.5 based on the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the wax is present in an amount effective to enhance the volume of eyelashes.
5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the wax is present in an amount of about 8 wt% to about 35 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the wax is present in an amount of about 15 wt% to about 25 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the wax is one or more waxes selected from the group consisting of rice bran wax, carnauba wax, ouricury wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, sugar cane wax, polyethylene wax, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, and any combination thereof.
8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the wax is a mixture of a hard wax and a soft wax.
9. The composition of claim 8, wherein the mixture has carnauba wax and beeswax.
10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the emulsion is a wax-in-water emulsion.
11. The composition of claim 1, wherein water is present in an amount of about 30 wt% to about 75 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition of claim 1, wherein water is present in an amount of about 45 wt% to about 60 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition of claim 1, further comprising an additional film former that is substantially water resistant.
14. The composition of claim 13, wherein the substantially water resistant film former is present in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition of claim 13, wherein the substantially water resistant film former is present in an amount of about 0.2 wt% to about 0.6 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
16. The composition of claim 13, wherein the substantially water resistant film former is selected from the group consisting of polyolefins, polyvinylpyrrolidone polymers and copolymers, polyethylenes, polyalkyls, polystyrenes, triglycerides, epoxies, shellacs, and any combination thereof.
17. The composition of claim 13, wherein the substantially water resistant film former is a vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer.
18. The composition of claim 1, further comprising an additional film former that is a cationic polymer.
19. The composition of claim 18, wherein the cationic polymeric film former is present in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
20. The composition of claim 18, wherein the cationic polymeric film former is present in an amount of about 0.25 wt% to about 1 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
21. The composition of claim 18, wherein the cationic polymeric film former is selected from the group consisting of Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-47, and any combination thereof.
22. The composition of claim 1, further comprising a water-resistant film former and a cationic polymeric film former.
23. The composition of claim 1, further comprising a plurality of fibers, said plurality of fibers being present in an amount of about 0.05 to about 1 weight percent of the composition.
24. The composition of claim 1 wherein the pigment, pearlescent or colorant is a pigment present in an amount of about 1 to about 30 weight percent of the composition.
25. The composition of claim 1, wherein the imide polymer is present in an amount about 0.05 wt% to about 8 wt% based on the total weight of the composition, and wherein the wax is present in an amount about 8 wt% to about 35 wt% based on the total weight of the composition, and wherein the emulsion is a wax-in-water type emulsion, and wherein water is present in an amount about 30 wt% to about 75 wt% based on the total weight of the composition, and wherein the composition further comprises a plurality of fibers, a substantially water resistant film former in an amount about 0.1 wt% to about 1.5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition, a cationic polymeric film former in an amount about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt% based on the total weight of the composition, and a plurality of fibers present in an amount about 0.5 to about 1 wt% based on the weight of the composition.
26. The composition of claim 25, wherein the imide polymer is an isobutylene/dimethylaminopropylmaleimide/ethoxylated maleimide/maleic acid copolymer, wherein the substantially water-resistant film former is a vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer, and wherein the cationic polymeric film former is a quaternary ammonium salt of an acrylamide/dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymer.
27. A mascara composition comprising:
an imide polymer having film-forming properties;
a wax;
water; and
a pigment or colorant;
wherein the composition is an emulsion; and wherein the imide polymer has the structure:
where m is 1-50, n is 1-50, x is 0.05-0.95, y is 0-0.9 and z is 0.05-0.95 and R is H or CH2CH3。
28. A method of imparting curl and increasing volume to eyelashes comprising topically applying to the eyelashes a mascara composition comprising an imide polymer having film-forming properties, a wax, water, and a pigment or colorant, wherein the composition is an emulsion, and wherein the imide polymer has the structure:
r, R therein1、R2And R3Selected from H, alkyl, alkoxy, cycloalkyl, aryl, ester, acid, fluorine and silyl and R4Is an alkyl group; wherein R' is hydrogen, aryl, alkylOr an alkyl group derived from fluorine, silyl, amino or alkene, and x is 0.05-0.95, y is 0-0.9 and z is 0.05-0.95.
29. The method of claim 28, wherein curl and fullness are maintained for about 8 hours or more than 8 hours.
30. A method of imparting curl and increasing volume to eyelashes comprising topically applying to the eyelashes a mascara composition comprising an imide polymer having film-forming properties, a wax, water, and a pigment or colorant, wherein the composition is an emulsion, and wherein the imide polymer has the structure:
wherein m is 1-50, n is 1-50, x is 0.05-0.95, y is 0-0.9 and z is 0.05-0.95 and R is H or CH2CH3。
31. A mascara composition comprising:
an imide polymer having film-forming properties;
a wax;
water;
and pigments, pearlescent or coloring agents;
wherein the composition is an emulsion.
32. The composition of claim 25, wherein the imide polymer is an isobutylene/dimethylaminopropylmaleimide/ethoxylated maleimide/maleic acid copolymer.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US11/019,438 | 2004-12-22 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| HK1107039A true HK1107039A (en) | 2008-03-28 |
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