FR3131845A1 - STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING RETINOID - Google Patents

Abstract

STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING RETINOID The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one retinoid; (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent; (c) at least one light barrier compound; (d) at least one oil selected from triglycerides, preferably triglycerides having at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue, and more preferably triglycerides having at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue; and (e) at least one optional polysaccharide. The composition according to the present invention is stable under exposure to light and under different temperature conditions, and can maintain the retinoid contained therein at a sufficient residual level even under exposure to light and at high temperature. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

STABLE COMPOSITION INCLUDING A RETINOID

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which is stable and comprises at least one retinoid.

context of art

Retinoids are known to be useful in the field of, for example, cosmetics because they can function as anti-aging active ingredients that can be used for the treatment of wrinkles and others. However, they tend to be unstable under certain conditions. For example, retinol is soluble in lipophilic solvents, but retinol solution can quickly discolor (yellow/brown) and the retinol it contains can degrade over time.

Compositions including one or more retinoids also present stability problems, in the sense that they tend to discolor and give off a bad odor, depending on light or temperature conditions, and that the retinoid(s) contained in the compositions degrade over time under the effect of exposure to light or high temperature. However, sufficient research has not yet been done on the technique for effectively preventing discoloration and bad odor of compositions including one or more retinoids, and degradation due to light or high temperature of the retinoid(s) over time. time in the compositions.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition including at least one retinoid, in which the composition is stable under conditions of exposure to light and at different temperatures, and can maintain the retinoid in the composition at a sufficient residual level. even under conditions of exposure to light and high temperature.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

(a) at least one retinoid;

(b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent;

(c) at least one compound which is capable of imparting to a solution thereof a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, and more preferably 2% or less, for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, following a light path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution;

(d) at least one oil chosen from triglycerides, preferably triglycerides having at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue, and more preferably triglycerides having at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue; And

(e) at least one optional polysaccharide, preferably chosen from polysaccharides derived from plants, and more preferably chosen from algae extracts.

The (a) retinoid may be retinol.

The quantity of (a) retinoids in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight, and more preferably between 0 .1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) lipophilic antioxidant agent may be chosen from biodegradable lipophilic antioxidant agents, and preferably tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of the lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3%. by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) compound may be chosen from polyphenols, preferably quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin, and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of (c) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight, and more preferably between 0.1 % and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) oil may be selected from vegetable oils, preferably from the group consisting of soybean oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, grapeseed oil, and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of the (d) oil in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight. 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (e) polysaccharide may be chosen from agar, alginate, carrageenan and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of the polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0. 01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

If the composition according to the present invention does not comprise (e) polysaccharide, it comprises (b) at least one chelating agent, preferably a biodegradable chelating agent, and more preferably trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

The quantity of the (f) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight. 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may be in O/W form, preferably an O/W emulsion or an O/W dispersion, and more preferably an O/W gel emulsion or an O/W gel dispersion.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition including at least one retinoid in which the composition is stable under exposure to light and under different temperature conditions, and can maintain the retinoid which is therein. found at a sufficient residual rate even under exposure to light and high temperature.

The composition according to the present invention can be characterized by a combination of:

(a) at least one retinoid;

(b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent;

(c) at least one compound capable of giving its solution a transmittance less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5%, and more preferably less than or equal to 2%, for a light whose length d the wave is between 290 and 420 nm, over a light path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution;

(d) at least one oil chosen from triglycerides, preferably triglycerides having at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue, and more preferably triglycerides having at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue; And

(e) at least one optional polysaccharide, preferably chosen from polysaccharides derived from plants, and more preferably chosen from algae extracts.

The composition according to the present invention is stable under exposure to light and under different temperature conditions, and can maintain the retinoid contained therein at a sufficient residual level even under exposure to light and at high temperature.

Ingredient (e) in the composition according to the present invention is optional. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise ingredient (e).

If the composition according to the present invention comprises ingredient (e), the composition according to the present invention cannot comprise ingredient (f). The composition according to the present invention which comprises ingredient (e) may be in the form of an O/W gel emulsion or an O/W gel dispersion.

If the composition according to the present invention does not comprise ingredient (e), the composition according to the present invention comprises ingredient (f). The composition according to the present invention which does not comprise ingredient (e) may be in the form of an O/W emulsion or an O/W dispersion.

The composition according to the present invention is stable under exposure to light and a variety of temperature conditions. Thus, the term "stable" here translates both photostability and thermostability, and means that the conditions, such as appearance, color and odor, of a composition do not change over time under exposure. to light (e.g. UV rays) and a variety of constant temperatures such as 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C.

Since the composition according to the present invention is stable, it can cause, for example, no or little separation or creaming, no or little discoloration, such as yellowing, and no or little bad odor, over a long period of time. time. The composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period of time, as it may cause little or no changes such as creaming, yellowing, and cause bad odor.

The composition according to the present invention can maintain the (a) retinoid it contains at a sufficient residual level (such as 80% or more) even under exposure to light (for example, UV rays) and high temperature (for example example, 45°C). In other words, the degradation of (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention due to light and high temperature can be reduced. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can offer cosmetic effects stable over time thanks to the (a) retinoid in the composition.

Below, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Retinoid]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one retinoid. Two or more (a) retinoids may be used in combination. So, a single type of retinoid or a combination of different types of retinoids can be used.

The (a) retinoid may be retinol (vitamin A), retinal (vitamin A aldehyde), retinoic acid (vitamin A acid), or an ester of retinol and a C _2-20 acid, such as retinol propionate, acetate, linoleate or palmitate (retinyl palmitate).

For (a) retinoid, mention may be made of retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, in particular all-trans retinoic acid and 13-cis retinoic acid, retinol derivatives, such as retinol acetate, propionate or palmitate, and the retinoids described in the following patent applications: FR 2 370 377, EP 0 199 636. EP 0 325 540 and EP 0 402 072:

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) retinoid is retinol or proretinol.

By “retinol” we mean all isomers of retinol, i.e. all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, 9-cis retinol and 3,4-didehydro retinol.

As a representative of proretinol, we can cite retinyl palmitate.

It is preferable that the (a) retinoid is retinol.

The amount of (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0 .1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Lipophilic antioxidant agent]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent. Only one type of lipophilic antioxidant agent can be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic antioxidant agent can be used in combination.

According to the present invention, antioxidant agents are compounds or substances which can trap the different radical forms which may be present in the skin; preferably, they simultaneously trap all the various radical forms present.

The (b) lipophilic antioxidant agent is different from (a) retinoid.

The (b) lipophilic antioxidant agent means that the partition coefficient of the antioxidant agent between n-butanol and water is >1, more preferably >10 and even more preferably >100.

As (b) lipophilic antioxidant agents, mention may be made of phenolic antioxidants which have a hindered phenolic structure or a semi-hindered phenolic structure in the molecule. As specific examples of such compounds, we can cite

3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxybenzenepropanoic acid) whose INCI name is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, 2 ,6-di-tert-butyl-4-ethylphenol, mono- or di- or tri-(α-methylbenzyl)phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(4-ethyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,2' -methylenebis(4-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-butylidenebis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-thiobis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone, 2,5-di-tert-amylhydroquinone, tris[N-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)]isocyanurate, 1,1,3-tris( 2-methyl-4-hydroxy-5-tert-butylphenyl)butane, butylidene-1,1bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], 3-(3,5-di Octadecyl -tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, tetrakis[methylene-3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionato]methane, bis[3-(3-tert-butyl- triethylene glycol 4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], 3,9-bis{2-[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionyloxy]-1,1-dimethylethyl}-2 ,4,8,10-tetraoxaspiro [5. 5]undecane, 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene, 2,2-thiodiethylenebis[3-(3,5-di -tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], N,N'-hexamethylenebis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamide), 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di- tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], 1,3,5-tris[(4-tert-butyl-3-hydroxy-2,6-xylyl)methyl]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4 ,6-trione, 2,4-bis(n-octylthio)-6-(4-hydroxy-3, 5-di-tert-butylanilino)-1,3,5-triazine, 2-tert-butyl-acrylate 6-(3'-tert-butyl-5'-methyl-2'-hydroxybenzyl)-4-methylphenyl, 2-[1-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-pentylphenyl)ethyl]-4, 6-di-tert-pentylphenyl acrylate, 4,6-bis[(octylthio)methyl]-o-cresol, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl-3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate and 1 ,6-hexanediolbis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl) propionate].

As (b) lipophilic antioxidant agents, we can also cite: BHA (butylated hydroxyl anisole) and BHT (utilized hydroxyl toluene), vitamin E (or tocopherols and tocotrienol) and its derivatives, such as the phosphate derivative, for example TPNA® sold by the company Showa Denko, coenzyme Q10 (or ubiquinone), idebenone, certain carotenoids such as lutein, astaxanthin, beta-carotene, phenolic acids and derivatives (for example chlorogenic acid).

The (b) lipophilic antioxidant agents which may also be mentioned include dithiolanes, for example asparagusic acid, or their derivatives, for example siliceous dithiolane derivatives, in particular such as those described in patent application FR 2 908 769.

(b) lipophilic antioxidant agents which may also be mentioned include:

glutathione and its derivatives (GSH and/or GSHOEt), such as glutathione alkyl esters (such as those described in patent applications FR 2 704 754 and FR 2 908 769);

cysteine and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid. We can also refer to the cysteine derivatives described in patent applications FR 2 877 004 and FR 2 854 160;

certain oxidative stress defense enzymes, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase (SOD), lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases;

benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates (as described in particular in patent application EP 0 511 118); caffeic acid and its derivatives, gamma-oryzanol; melatonin, sulforaphane and extracts containing it (excluding watercress);

the diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, as described in particular in patent applications WO 94/11338, FR 2 698 095, FR 2 737 205 or EP 0 755 925;

deferoxamine (or deferal) as described in patent application FR 2 825 920.

The (b) lipophilic antioxidant agents which can also be used are chalcones, more particularly phloretin or neohesperidin, the diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid or a maritime pine bark extract such as PYCNOGENOL®.

As examples of (b) lipophilic antioxidant agents, mention may also be made of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, tocopherol, resveratrol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyl toluene, butylated hydroxyl anisole, palmitate ascorbyl, tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the (b) lipophilic antioxidant agent is biodegradable. In this sense, BHT, which is not biodegradable, is not preferable as a (b) lipophilic antioxidant agent. Thus, it is preferable not to use BHT as a (b) lipophilic antioxidant agent. Furthermore, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is free of BHT.

The term “free” here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain a limited quantity of BHT. However, it is preferable that the amount of BHT is limited such that it is less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is more preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include BHT.

More preferably, the lipophilic antioxidant agent (f) is chosen from tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of the lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more. , and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3 % by weight, and more preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Light shielding compound]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one compound which is capable of giving its solution a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, and more preferably 2% or less, for light of wavelength 290 to 420 nm, following a light path length of 10 mm, in which the concentration of (c) compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution. Thus, a single type of such compound or a combination of different types of such compounds can be used.

The (c) compound can provide low light transmittance. Therefore, compound (c) may be referred to as a light shielding compound.

It is more preferable that the (c) compound is capable of imparting to a solution zero transmittance (0) for light of wavelength of 290 to 420 nm following a light path length of 10 mm, in which the concentration of (c) compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution.

It is even more preferable that the (c) compound is capable of giving a solution zero transmittance (0) for light of wavelength of 290 to 420 nm following a light path length of 10 mm, in which the concentration of (c) compound in the solution is greater than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution.

The solvent in the solution is not limited as long as the (c) compound is solubilized in the solvent, and the solvent has no absorbance for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm. For example, as a solvent, water and hydrophilic solvents such as ethanol can be used.

Transmittance can be measured by a spectrophotometer, for example a UV-Visible/NIR V-750 spectrophotometer from JASCO Corp.

The (c) compound can impart to a solution a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, more preferably 2% or less, and even more preferably zero (0)% for any light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm following a light path length of 10 mm. In other words, the solution of (c) compound can reduce or mask any light whose wavelength is between 290 nm and 420 nm.

The (c) compound can reduce or mask light with the above specific wavelength that could reach the (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention to cause the decomposition of the (a) retinoid. Therefore, the compound (c) can contribute to enhancing the photostability of the retinoid (a), and can reduce the decomposition of the retinoid (a) in the composition according to the present invention.

The (c) compound may be selected from the group consisting of polyphenols.

(Polyphenol)

By the term “polyphenol” is meant a compound containing a plurality of phenolic hydroxyl groups. Phenolic hydroxyl group means a hydroxyl group bonded to an aromatic ring such as a benzene ring and a naphthalene ring. The phenolic hydroxyl group may optionally be etherified or esterified.

The polyphenol can be chosen from those which have antioxidant activity.

The polyphenol can be chosen, for example, from flavonoids.

The preferred flavonoids may correspond to general formula (I):

(I)

in which

A", B", C" and D", independently of each other, represent H, -OH, -R' or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH;

E’’ represents H, -OH or -OX’, where X’ represents:

F", G" and J" represent, independently of each other, H, -OH or -OCH3; and

X ₁ represents -CH2-, -CO- or -CHOH-,

or the general formula (II):

(II)

in which

A', C' and D', independently of each other, represent H, -OH, -OCH ₃ , -R' or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH;

E’ represents H, -OH or -OR’, where R’ represents the residue of a sugar of formula R’OH; And

B', F', G' and J', independently of each other, represent H, OH, -OCH ₃ , -OCH ₂ -CH ₂ -OH, or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH.

Rutinose, glucose, apiose, rhamnose, robinose, neohesperidose, or a combination thereof, may be mentioned among the R'OH sugars.

The compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are known. They can be obtained in particular according to the processes described in “The Flavonoids”, Harborne J. B., Mabry T. J., Helga Mabry, 1975, pages 1 to 45.

The flavonoids can be chosen from flavones, flavonols, isoflavones, flavanols, flavanones, anthocyanidins and mixtures thereof.

Among the flavonoids which can be used for the present invention, mention may be made of apigenin, apiin, apigetrin, vitexin, chrysin, toringin, luteolin, orientin, galangin, quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin, quercitrin, isoquercitrin, kaempferol, astragaline, kaempferitrin, robin, myricetin, daidzein, daidzin, genistein, genistein, glycitein, glycitin, catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, naringenin, narirutin, naringin, hesperetin, hesperidin, glucosylhesperidin, anthocyan idine, anthocyanin, cyanidin, cyanine, delphinidin, delphinin, pelargonidin, and pelargonin.

Certain usable polyphenols are present in plants from which they can be extracted in known ways. It is possible to use tea leaf extracts (Camellia sinensis or Camellia japonica). We will particularly mention the green tea extracts sold under the name SUNPHENON® by the Taiyo Company, which contain flavonoids in particular.

As a polyphenol, it is possible to use a mixture of glucosylrutin and rutin sold under the name ALPHA GLUCOSYL RUTIN by the company QINGDAO TAITONG PHARMACEUTICAL.

Among the polyphenols that can be used, we will also cite polyphenols such as carnosic acid and carnosol which can be extracted, for example, from rosemary, either by extraction followed by distillation (Chang et al., JOSC, Vol. 61, No. 6, June 1984), or by extraction with a polar solvent such as ethanol preceded by extraction with a non-polar solvent such as hexane to eliminate odorous substances, as described in document EP-A- 307,626.

The polyphenol can also be chosen from (2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)alkylenecarboxylic acids of formula (III) and their derivatives (in particular esters and amides):

(III)

in which

R ₁ " represents -O-Alk, OH or -N(r')(r"), where Alk denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy groups, or a C ₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl,

r' and r" independently represent H, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or C ₃ -C ₆ polyhydroxyalkyl, or r' and r'' form, together with an atom of nitrogen to which they are linked, a heterocycle,

r is a number, including zero, such that the chain -(CH ₂ ) _r -COR ₁ contains at most 21 carbon atoms,

R ₂ "and R ₃ " independently represent H or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, R ₂ " may also represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy.

The compounds of formula (III) are known or can be prepared according to known processes, for example analogous to those described in patents FR-2 400 358 and FR-2 400 359.

The polyphenol can also be chosen from caffeic acid esters or amides.

Among the caffeic acid esters, mention may in particular be made of the compounds of formula (IV):

(IV)

in which

Z represents a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or the residue of a phytol.

Among the caffeic acid amides, mention may in particular be made of the compounds of formula (V):

(V)

in which

Z' represents a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, in particular a C ₆ -C _{8 alkyl} .

The compounds of formula (IV) or (V) are known or can be prepared according to known methods.

The (c) compound may be selected from the group consisting of:

quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin, and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight, and more preferred between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Triglyceride Oil]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one oil chosen from triglycerides. Thus, a single type of this oil (d) or a combination of different types of these oils (d) can be used.

By "oil" is meant here a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those typically used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

The (d) oil is chosen from triglycerides. So the (d) oil can be called (d) triglyceride oil. Triglyceride is an ester derived from glycerol and three fatty acids, and may be called triacylglycerol.

It is preferable that the triglyceride for the (d) oil has at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue. In other words, it is preferable that the triglyceride of the (d) oil is an ester derived from glycerol and at least one unsaturated fatty acid. Thus, the triglyceride for the (d) oil can be (i) an ester derived from glycerol and an unsaturated fatty acid and two saturated fatty acids, (ii) an ester derived from glycerol and two unsaturated fatty acids and d 'a saturated fatty acid, or (iii) an ester derived from three unsaturated fatty acids. If two or more unsaturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different. If two saturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different.

According to the present invention, the term “unsaturated fatty acid” means a fatty acid comprising at least one double or triple carbon-carbon bond. These are more particularly long-chain fatty acids, that is to say which can contain 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. .

Fatty acids can be monounsaturated such as petroselenic acid (C12), palmitoleic acid (C16) and oleic acid (C18), or can be polyunsaturated, i.e. having at least two double carbon bonds -carbon, such as linoleic acid (C18) and linolenic acid (C18).

It is more preferable that the triglyceride of the (d) oil has at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue. In other words, it is more preferable that the triglyceride for the (d) oil is an ester derived from glycerol and at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid.

The polyunsaturated fatty acid can be chosen from ω-3, ω-6 and ω-9 fatty acids, characterized by the unsaturation position closest to the terminal methyl group.

The polyunsaturated fatty acid comprising between 18 and 22 carbon atoms, in particular those chosen from ω-3 and ω-6 fatty acids, may be more preferable.

Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the ω-3 series, we can cite α-linolenic acid (18:3, ω-3), stearidonic acid (18:4, ω-3), acid 5, 8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid or EPA (20:5, ω-3), and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid or DHA (22:6, ω-3), docosapentaenoic acid (22.5, ω-3) and n-butyl-5,11,14-eicosatrienonic acid.

Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the ω-6 series, we can cite linolenic acid with 18 carbon atoms and two unsaturations (18:2, ω-6), γ-linolenic acid with 18 carbon atoms and three unsaturations (18:3, ω-6), dihomogamalinolenic acid with 20 carbon atoms and 3 unsaturations (20:3, ω-6), arachidonic acid or 5,8,11,14 eicosatetraenoic acid ( 20:4, ω-6), and docosatetraenoic acid (22:4, ω-6).

As a ω-9 fatty acid, we can cite Mead's acid (20:3, ω-9).

The polyunsaturated fatty acid may be chosen from α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and mixtures thereof.

The amount of polyunsaturated fatty acid among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglyceride for the (d) oil may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and so more preferably 50% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the fatty acids.

The weight ratio of quantity of polyunsaturated fatty acid(s) / quantity of monounsaturated fatty acid(s) among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglyceride for the (d) oil can be greater than 1.0, preferably greater than 1.5, and more preferably greater than 2.0.

The (d) triglyceride oil may be chosen from vegetable oils.

For example, (d) triglyceride oil may be selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, canola oil, cottonseed oil, rice oil, corn oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, flax, and a mixture thereof.

It is preferable that the (d) triglyceride oil is selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, grapeseed oil and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the triglyceride oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and so more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the triglyceride oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the triglyceride oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 15% by weight, more preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) triglyceride oil(s) can form a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of the O/W type, the (d) triglyceride oil in the composition according to the present invention can form fatty phases dispersed in the O/W type composition.

[Polysaccharide]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one polysaccharide. Only one type of polysaccharide can be used, but two or more different types of polysaccharide can be used in combination.

The (e) polysaccharide can form a capsule that can encapsulate (a) at least one retinoid, preferably together with (d) at least one triglyceride oil, and more preferably together with (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent and (d) at least one triglyceride oil. Encapsulating the (a) at least one retinoid can further reduce the decomposition of the (a) at least one retinoid, or further reduce the change in appearance or color, or bad odor of the composition according to the present invention. Thus, the capsule can further improve the stability of the composition according to the present invention.

The capsule of the (e) at least one polysaccharide including the (a) at least one retinoid may be prepared by surrounding or coating the (a) at least one retinoid with at least one layer or film of the (e) at least one polysaccharide. It is preferable that a mixture comprising the (a) at least one retinoid and the (d) at least one triglyceride oil is surrounded or coated by the (e) at least one polysaccharide. It is more preferably that a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid, (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent and (d) at least one triglyceride oil is surrounded or coated by (e) at least one polysaccharide . It is even more preferable that the (a) at least one retinoid is solubilized in the (d) at least one triglyceride oil, then that the (d) at least one triglyceride oil is surrounded or coated by the (e) at least one triglyceride oil. least one polysaccharide. The (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent can also be solubilized in the (d) at least one triglyceride oil.

The coating step can be carried out by any conventional process. For example, it is possible to coextrude (i) a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (d) at least one triglyceride oil together with (ii) the (e) polysaccharide. In this case, the excluded mixture (i) can form a core, while the polysaccharide (ii)(e) can form a shell. The coextruded core/shell structure can transform into a core/shell particle that corresponds to the capsule. The mixture (i) above may also include (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent.

The shape of the capsule is not limited. For example, the capsule may have the shape of a sphere.

The size of the capsule is not limited. It is possible for the size or diameter of the capsule to be 0.1 to 10 mm, preferably 0.5 to 5 mm, and more preferably 1 to 3 mm.

The capsule can be dispersed and suspended in the composition according to the present invention. The capsule can give the composition according to the present invention unique aspects.

It is preferable that the (e) polysaccharide is chosen from polysaccharides derived from plants. In other words, it is preferable that the (e) polysaccharide is of plant origin.

On the other hand, it is also preferable that the (e) polysaccharide is not chosen from cellulose and its derivatives.

On the other hand, it is also preferable that the (e) polysaccharide is not chosen from cellulose and its derivatives.

According to the present invention, the term “polysaccharides of plant origin” is understood in particular to mean polysaccharides obtained from the plant kingdom (plants or algae), as opposed to polysaccharides obtained by biotechnological means, as is the case for example for gum. xanthan, which is produced in particular by fermentation of a bacteria, Xanthomonas campestris.

As examples of polysaccharides of plant origin which can be used according to the present invention, the following may be cited in particular:

a) seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. As an example of carrageenans, we can include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Degussa; as alginate, we can cite sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP;

b) gums, such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; examples that can be cited include guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan and konjac® gum (1% gluconomannan) sold by the company GfN;

c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals, for example wheat, corn or rice, from legumes, for example blond peas, from tubers, for example apple starches earth or cassava, and tapioca; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; we can notably cite Rémy DR I® rice starch sold by the Rémy company; corn starch B® from the company Roquette; potato starch modified by 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized by sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch;

d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from the company National Starch; And

their mixtures.

Preferably, the (e) polysaccharide is chosen from algae extracts.

Seaweed extracts can be chosen from alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof, may be used.

The quantity of the polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.005% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to at 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.001% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.005% and 2% by weight, more preferably between 0, 01% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Chelation agent]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b) at least one chelating agent if it does not comprise (e) polysaccharide. Only one type of chelating agent may be used, but two or more different types of chelating agents may be used in combination.

As (f) chelating agent, we can mention

(i) aminocarboxylic acids such as the following INCI name compounds: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine-N acid ,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho- hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-acid N,N-diacetic and glyceryl-imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic-N-2-hydroxypropyl-sulfonic acid and N-carboxymethyl-aspartic acid N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in document EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic and aspartic acid-N -monoacetic (described in document EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in document EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid, such that the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel,

(ii) chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid, such as the compounds with the following INCI name: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic) acid (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP ), [0263]ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid ( ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), and hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), and

(iii) chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid, such as the compounds with the following INCI name: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid, their salts and derivatives,

And

their mixtures.

It is preferable that the (f) chelating agent is biodegradable. In this sense, EDTA, which is not biodegradable, is not preferable as a chelating agent. Thus, it is preferable not to use EDTA as a chelating agent. Furthermore, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is free of EDTA.

The term “free” here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain a limited quantity of EDTA. However, it is preferable that the amount of EDTA is limited such that it is less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0. 01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is entirely preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include EDTA.

More preferably, the (f) chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

The amount of the chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, compared to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the (f) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the (f) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.001% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.005% and 2% by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Water]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise water.

Water can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

If the composition according to the present invention is in the O/W type form, the water in the composition according to the present invention can form a continuous aqueous phase in the O/W type composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, based on the total weight. of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 90% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 85% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 80%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be between 50% and 90% by weight, preferably between 55% and 85% by weight, more preferably between 60% and 80% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

[Polyol]

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.

The term "polyol" herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or derivative thereof. The saccharide derivative includes a sugar alcohol that is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more several hydroxy groups thereof have or have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

The polyol may be a C ₂ -C ₁₂ polyol, preferably a C ₂ -C ₉ polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol can be chosen from glycerins and their derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. The polyol may be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and sugars such as sorbitol.

The amount of polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight. or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, such as 0. 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Other ingredients]

The composition according to the present invention may contain one or more monoalcohols which are in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25°C), such as for example linear or branched monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol and hexanol.

The amount of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be equal to or greater than 0.01% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably equal to or greater than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 60% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 55% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the quantity of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 55% by weight. 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also include various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic, hydrophilic antioxidants, coloring agents, thickeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, co-preservatives and mixtures thereof, except for ingredients as explained above.

[Preparation]

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[Shape]

The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can take various forms such as an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), an aqueous gel, an aqueous solution, or the like.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W type. It is more preferred that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion or an O/W dispersion which comprises fatty phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be oil droplets in the aqueous phase. It is even more preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W gel emulsion or an O/W gel dispersion. In this case, the aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickener making it possible to gel the aqueous phase.

The O/W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore the composition according to the present invention with the O/W architecture or structure can provide a sensation pleasant during use thanks to the immediate sensation of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

The composition according to the present invention may be transparent or translucent, preferably transparent.

Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (marketed by HACH) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm in height) and a tungsten filament lamp that can emit of visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The white can be determined with distilled water.

The composition according to the present invention may preferably have a turbidity less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, more preferably less than 100 NTU, and even more preferably less than 50 NTU.

[Process and usage]

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as the skin.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, to treat a keratinous substance such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, being applied to the keratinous substance.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

The composition according to the present invention can be used as, for example, an anti-aging, anti-wrinkle product, or promoting the renewal of a keratinous substance such as the skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic product for the skin.

Another aspect of the present invention relates to a use:

(b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent;

(c) at least one compound capable of imparting to a solution thereof a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, and more preferably 2% or less, for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, following a light path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution; And

(d) at least one oil chosen from triglycerides, preferably triglycerides having at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue, and more preferably triglycerides having at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue,

for the manufacture of a stable composition comprising (a) at least one retinoid, preferably stable both under exposure to light and under different temperature conditions,

Or

to reduce the decomposition of (a) at least one retinoid in a composition comprising (a) at least one retinoid, both under exposure to light and at high temperature,

in which

the composition comprises (e) at least one optional polysaccharide, preferably chosen from polysaccharides derived from plants, and more preferably chosen from algae extracts,

And

if the composition does not comprise (e) at least one polysaccharide, the composition comprises (b) at least one chelating agent, preferably a biodegradable chelating agent, and more preferably trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

Another aspect of the present invention also relates to a process for

prepare a stable composition comprising (a) at least one retinoid, preferably stable both under exposure to light and under different temperature conditions, or

reducing the decomposition of (a) at least one retinoid in a composition comprising the (a) at least one retinoid, both under exposure to light and at high temperature,

comprising one or more addition steps

(b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent;

(c) at least one compound which is capable of imparting to a solution thereof a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, and more preferably 2% or less, for the light of wavelength from 290 to 420 nm, following a light path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution;

(d) at least one oil chosen from triglycerides, preferably triglycerides having at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue, and more preferably triglycerides having at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue; And

(e) at least one optional polysaccharide, preferably chosen from polysaccharides derived from plants, and more preferably chosen from algae extracts.

to the composition,

in which

if the (e) at least one polysaccharide is not added, the process further comprises a step consisting of adding (b) at least one chelating agent, preferably a biodegradable chelating agent, and more preferably ethylenediamine disuccinate trisodium.

In the above aspects, it is preferable that the (a) at least one retinoid is encapsulated by the (e) at least one polysaccharide.

It is more preferable that a mixture comprising the (a) at least one retinoid and the (d) at least one triglyceride oil is encapsulated by the (e) at least one polysaccharide.

It is even more preferable that a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid, (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent, and (d) at least one triglyceride oil is encapsulated by (e) at least one polysaccharide.

The above explanations regarding ingredients (a) to (f), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention may be applied to those for the above uses and processes according to the present invention. The explanations concerning the preparation and forms of the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to those of the composition cited in the uses and processes above.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail using examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Example 1 and comparative examples 1-4]

The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 in the form of O/W emulsions, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1.

The preparations of the O/W emulsions (example 1 and comparative examples 1-4) were carried out as follows:

(1) mix the phase B ingredients at 75-80°C to form a uniform phase B mixture;

(2) cooling the mixture obtained by step (1) above to room temperature;

(3) adding the ingredients of phase A to the uniform mixture of phase B at room temperature to form a uniform mixture of phase (A+B);

(4) mixing the phase C ingredients with a homogenizer at 75-80°C to form a uniform phase C mixture;

(5) mixing the phase D ingredients at room temperature to form a uniform phase D mixture;

(6) mixing the uniform mixture of phase (A+B), the uniform mixture of phase C and the uniform mixture of phase D; And

(7) homogenize and cool the mixture obtained by step (6) above to room temperature.

The numerical values of component quantities shown in Table 1 are all based on "weight percent" of raw materials.

Ingredients Example 1 Ex. 1 comp. Ex. 2 comp. Ex. 3 comp. Ex. 4 comp. HAS Retinol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Glycine soya oil (Soybean) 2.7 - 2.7 2.7 2.7 B Glycine soya oil (Soybean) 2.85 - 2.85 2.85 2.85 Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate 0.75 6.3 0.75 0.75 0.75 Octyldodecanol 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Squalane 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.3 0.3 - 0.3 0.3 Tocopherol 0.075 0.075 - 0.075 0.075 VS Cross-linked polymer Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Xanthan gum (and) Ceratonia Siliqua (carob) gum 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 D Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Isosearate (and) Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Scent 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 VS Hydroxyacetophenone 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 Chlorphenesin 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (37% by weight) 0.15 0.15 0.15 - 0.15 Tris citrate (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) 0.46 0.46 0.46 0.46 0.46 Glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 Propanediol 10 10 10 10 10 Caprylyl glycol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Dipropylene glycol 2 2 2 2 2 Glucosylrutin (and) rutin 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 - Potassium hydroxide 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 Niacinamide 1 1 1 1 1 Caffeine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Thermo-Stability Residual retinol level (%) Very good Bad Very bad Very bad Good Visual observation Very good Good Good Good Good Photo-Stability Residual retinol level (%) Good Good Good Good Very bad Visual observation Very good Good Good Good Bad

[Ratings]

(Thermostability)

Residual level of retinol:

Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was loaded into a glass bottle and was maintained under temperature conditions of 45°C for 2 months. The residual level of retinol (%) after storage at 45°C for 2 months was measured by HLPC and calculated according to the initial % (24 hours after production) measured by HPLC. The residual level of retinol (%) thus calculated for each composition was evaluated according to the following criteria.

Very good: 85 ≤

Good: 80 ≤ and < 85

Bad: 70 ≤ and < 80

Very bad: < 70

The results are shown in Table 1.

Visual observation:

Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was loaded into four glass bottles, and each of the glass bottles was maintained under temperature conditions of 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C, respectively, for 2 months.

Each glass bottle was then examined to determine the degree of change (in terms of appearance, color and odor), and evaluated according to the following criteria.

Very good: same condition as production.

Good: little change in appearance, color or odor was observed.

Bad: a change in appearance (separation or creaming), color (yellowing or browning) or odor (bad smell) could clearly be observed.

Very bad: a change in appearance (separation or creaming), color (yellowing or browning) or odor (bad smell) could be noted remarkably.

The results are shown in Table 1.

(Photo-Stability)

Residual level of retinol:

Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was loaded into a glass bottle and was tested by the Sun Test* (24 hours). The residual level of retinol (%) after the sun test was measured by HLPC and calculated according to the initial % (24 hours after production) measured by HPLC. The residual level of retinol (%) thus calculated for each composition was evaluated according to the following criteria.

Very good: 85 ≤

Good: 80 ≤ and < 85

Bad: 70 ≤ and < 80

Very bad: < 70

*Sun test

The glass bottle was exposed to artificial sunlight using SUNTEST CPS+ (Atras) under the following conditions:

Irradiance: 765 W/ ^m2 ,

Temperature: 25°C, and

Trial duration: 24 hours.

The results are shown in Table 1.

Visual observation:

Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was loaded into a glass bottle, and the glass bottle was subjected to the above sun test.

Each glass bottle was then examined to determine the degree of change (in terms of appearance, color and odor), and evaluated according to the following criteria.

Very good: Almost the same condition as in production.

Good: little change in appearance, color or odor was observed.

Bad: a change in appearance (separation or creaming), color (yellowing or browning) or odor (bad smell) could clearly be observed.

Very bad: a change in appearance (separation or creaming), color (yellowing or browning) or odor (bad smell) could be noted remarkably.

The results are shown in Table 1.

(Results)

The composition according to Example 1 which included ingredients (a) to (d) explained above (optional ingredient (e) was absent) was stable both under exposure to light and at different temperatures such that the conditions of the composition have not changed significantly. Also, ingredient (a) of the composition according to Example 1 was maintained at a sufficient residual level even under exposure to light and at high temperature.

The composition according to Comparative Example 1 which did not include ingredient (d) could not maintain ingredient (a) at a sufficient residual level at high temperature.

The composition according to Comparative Example 2 which did not include ingredient (b) could not maintain ingredient (a) at a sufficient residual level at high temperature.

The composition according to Comparative Example 3 which did not include ingredient (f) could not maintain ingredient (a) at a sufficient residual level at high temperature.

The composition according to comparative example 4 which did not include ingredient (c) could not maintain ingredient (a) at a sufficient residual level with respect to light.

[Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 5-7]

The following compositions according to Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 5-7 in the form of encapsulated O/W gel-like dispersions, shown in Table 2, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2.

The preparations of the O/W gel type dispersions encapsulated according to Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 5-7 were carried out as follows:

(1) mix the phase B ingredients at 75-80°C to form a uniform phase B mixture;

(2) cooling the mixture obtained by step (1) above to room temperature;

(3) adding the ingredients of phase A to the uniform mixture of phase B at room temperature to form a uniform mixture of phase (A+B);

(4) mixing the phase C ingredients with a homogenizer at 75-80°C to form a uniform phase C mixture;

(5) mixing the phase D ingredients at room temperature to form a uniform phase D mixture;

(6) adding the uniform mixture of phase D to the uniform mixture of phase C at room temperature to form a uniform mixture of (C+D);

(7) mixing the phase E ingredients with a homogenizer at 80-90°C to form a uniform phase E mixture;

(8) coextruding the uniform mixture of phase (A+B) and the uniform mixture of phase E by encapsulating the former with the latter to prepare capsules in which the uniform mixture of phase (A+B) is coated and encapsulated with uniform mixing of phase E; And

(9) add the capsules obtained by step (8) above to the uniform phase mixture (C+D) at room temperature.

The numerical values of the component quantities shown in Table 2 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

Ingredients Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Ex. 5 Comp. Ex. 6 Comp. Ex. 7 Comp. HAS Retinol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Glycine soya oil (Soybean) 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 - 2.7 2.7 B Glycine soya oil (Soybean) 2.85 2.85 2.85 2.85 - 2.85 2.85 Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 6.3 0.75 0.75 Octyldodecanol 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Squalane 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.3 0.3 - 0.3 0.3 - 0.3 Tocopherol 0.075 - 0.5 0.075 0.075 - 0.075 VS Cross-linked polymer Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Xanthan gum (and) Ceratonia Siliqua (carob) gum 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 D Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Isosearate (and) Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Scent 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 E Agar 0.037 0.037 0.037 0.037 0.037 0.037 0.037 Algin 0.018 0.018 0.018 0.018 0.018 0.018 0.018 Water 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 VS Hydroxyacetophenone 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 Chlorphenesin 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (37% by weight) 0.15 0.15 0.15 - 0.15 0.15 0.15 Tris citrate (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) 0.46 0.46 0.46 0.46 0.46 0.46 0.46 Glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Propanediol 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Propylene glycol - - - - - - - Caprylyl glycol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Dipropylene glycol 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Glucosylrutin (and) Rutin 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 - Potassium hydroxide 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 Niacinamide 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Caffeine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Thermo-Stability Residual retinol level (%) Very good Very good Very good Very good Bad Bad Good Visual observation Very good Very good Very good Good Good Good Good Photo-Stability Residual retinol level (%) Good Very good Very good Good Good Good Very bad Visual observation Very good Very good Very good Good Good Good Bad

[Ratings]

(Thermostability)

Residual level of retinol:

Each of the compositions according to Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 5-7 was loaded into a glass bottle and was maintained under temperature conditions of 45°C for 2 months. The residual level of retinol (%) after storage at 45°C for 2 months was measured by HLPC and calculated according to the initial % (24 hours after production) measured by HPLC. The residual level of retinol (%) thus calculated for each composition was evaluated according to the following criteria.

Very good: 85 ≤

Good: 80 ≤ and < 85

Bad: 70 ≤ and < 80

Very bad: < 70

The results are shown in Table 2.

Visual observation:

Each of the compositions according to Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 5-7 was loaded into four glass bottles, and each of the glass bottles was maintained under temperature conditions of 4°C, 25°C, 37° C and 45°C, respectively, for 2 months.

Each glass bottle was then examined to determine the degree of change (in terms of appearance, color and odor), and evaluated according to the following criteria.

Very good: Almost the same condition as in production.

Good: Little change in appearance, color or odor was observed.

Bad: a change in appearance (separation or creaming), color (yellowing or browning) or odor (bad smell) could clearly be observed.

Very bad: A change in appearance (separation or creaming), color (yellowing or browning) or odor (bad smell) could be noted remarkably.

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Photo-Stability)

Residual level of retinol:

Each of the compositions according to Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 5-7 was loaded into a glass bottle and was tested by the sun test* (24 hours). The residual level of retinol (%) after the sun test was measured by HLPC and calculated according to the initial % (24 hours after production) measured by HPLC. The residual level of retinol (%) thus calculated for each composition was evaluated according to the following criteria.

Very good: 85 ≤

Good: 80 ≤ and < 85

Bad: 70 ≤ and < 80

Very bad: < 70

*Sun test

The glass bottle was exposed to artificial sunlight using SUNTEST CPS+ (Atras) under the following conditions:

Irradiance: 765 W/ ^m2 ,

Temperature: 25°C, and

Trial duration: 24 hours.

The results are shown in Table 2.

Visual observation:

Each of the compositions according to Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 5-7 was loaded into a glass bottle, and the glass bottle was subjected to the above sun test.

Each glass bottle was then examined to determine the degree of change (in terms of appearance, color and odor), and evaluated according to the following criteria.

Very good: Almost the same condition as in production.

Good: Little change in appearance, color or odor was observed.

Bad: a change in appearance (separation or creaming), color (yellowing or browning) or odor (bad smell) could clearly be observed.

Very bad: A change in appearance (separation or creaming), color (yellowing or browning) or odor (bad smell) could be noted remarkably.

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Results)

The composition according to Example 2 which included ingredients (a) to (e) explained above was stable both under exposure to light and at different temperatures such that the conditions of the composition did not substantially change . In addition, ingredient (a) in the composition according to Example 2 was maintained at a sufficient residual level even under exposure to light and at high temperature.

The compositions according to Examples 3 and 4, which each included a single ingredient as ingredient (b), were also stable both under exposure to light and at different temperatures, such that the conditions of the compositions did not substantially change . Also, ingredient (a) in the compositions according to Examples 3 and 4 was maintained at a sufficient residual level even under exposure to light and at high temperature.

The composition according to Example 5 which included ingredient (e) and did not include ingredient (f) was also stable both under exposure to light and at different temperatures such that the conditions of the composition n have not changed significantly. In addition, ingredient (a) in the composition according to Example 5 was maintained at a sufficient residual level even under exposure to light and high temperature.

The composition according to Comparative Example 5 which did not include ingredient (d) could not maintain ingredient (a) at a sufficient residual level at high temperature.

The composition according to Comparative Example 6 which did not include ingredient (b) could not maintain ingredient (a) at a sufficient residual level at high temperature.

The composition according to comparative example 7 which did not include ingredient (c) could not maintain ingredient (a) at a sufficient residual level with respect to light.

Claims (10)

Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:
(a) at least one retinoid;
(b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent;
(c) at least one compound which is capable of imparting to a solution thereof a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, and more preferably 2% or less, for light of wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, following a light path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution;
(d) at least one oil chosen from triglycerides, preferably triglycerides having at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue, and more preferably triglycerides having at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue; And
(e) at least one optional polysaccharide, preferably chosen from polysaccharides derived from plants, and more preferred from algae extracts. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) retinoid is retinol. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the quantity of the retinoid(s) in the composition is between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight. weight, and more preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the (b) lipophilic antioxidant agent is chosen from biodegradable lipophilic antioxidant agents, and preferably tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the (c) compound is chosen from polyphenols, preferably quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin, and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the (d) oil is chosen from vegetable oils, preferably from the group consisting of soybean oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, seed oil grapes, and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the (e) polysaccharide is chosen from agar, alginate, carrageenan and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the composition does not comprise any (e) polysaccharide, and comprises (f) at least one chelating agent, preferably a biodegradable chelating agent, and more preferably ethylenediamine trisodium disuccinate. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is in O/W form, preferably an O/W emulsion or an O/W dispersion, and more preferably an O/W gel emulsion. E or an O/W gel dispersion. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to the keratinous substance.